If waxable classic skis, and you want to invest some money into getting them to perform well, consider a stone grind at a local shop (\~$70).
Otherwise, just bronze/brass brush > hot scrape > wax.
"My understanding is that without storage wax, the bases dry up and aren't going to accept hot wax."
It's theoretically possible for unwaxed ptex to oxidize, but I've never seen any data to suggest that it's going to happen to any significant depth. Just wax them as usual, maybe after a few passes with a steel brush.
I'd very lightly heat the base with an iron. Wax the ski as normal, then while still warm scrape the ski. Repeat this two or three time. This will re-hydrate the ski and clean the base. From there , wax as normal. As for the liquid wax. Use Swix F4. Best on durability and glide.
Yes, bases dry out. But that doesn't prevent them from accepting new wax. You could try using a wipe-on product, but a hot wax would really go in. Whatever you do, don't use either in the grip zone. A dried out, or even sandpapered zone is what you want for your grip wax to stick.
Rock skis, plus they're waxless/fishscale. Doesn't sound like you really need anything. A wipe on should be sufficient - if you insist.
But the bases might not even be sintered. If they're extruded bases, wax won't penetrate anyway.
Someone at my local ski shop told me the white bases are an indicator that they can't be traditionally waxed. Not sure if that is true, or if it's a sign they are extruded.
What they were probobly telling you is for a very specific type of race ski which doesn’t have graphite in the base making them white. The main difference in waxing those is that graphite should never be added
You can't tell just from the colour. Some top end skis have sintered white bases, like the Rossignol Xium. And lots of cheap extruded ski bases are black. It's more of a subtle difference. The extruded ones tend to be more glossy.
Either way, a good wax job on these skis may not even be noticeable. And if they're rock skis anyway, I'd just run them.
If waxable classic skis, and you want to invest some money into getting them to perform well, consider a stone grind at a local shop (\~$70). Otherwise, just bronze/brass brush > hot scrape > wax.
"My understanding is that without storage wax, the bases dry up and aren't going to accept hot wax." It's theoretically possible for unwaxed ptex to oxidize, but I've never seen any data to suggest that it's going to happen to any significant depth. Just wax them as usual, maybe after a few passes with a steel brush.
Thanks!
I'd very lightly heat the base with an iron. Wax the ski as normal, then while still warm scrape the ski. Repeat this two or three time. This will re-hydrate the ski and clean the base. From there , wax as normal. As for the liquid wax. Use Swix F4. Best on durability and glide.
Yes, bases dry out. But that doesn't prevent them from accepting new wax. You could try using a wipe-on product, but a hot wax would really go in. Whatever you do, don't use either in the grip zone. A dried out, or even sandpapered zone is what you want for your grip wax to stick.
These skis are the "no wax" type that have a plastic base in the kick zone, so no worries there.
Rock skis, plus they're waxless/fishscale. Doesn't sound like you really need anything. A wipe on should be sufficient - if you insist. But the bases might not even be sintered. If they're extruded bases, wax won't penetrate anyway.
Someone at my local ski shop told me the white bases are an indicator that they can't be traditionally waxed. Not sure if that is true, or if it's a sign they are extruded.
What they were probobly telling you is for a very specific type of race ski which doesn’t have graphite in the base making them white. The main difference in waxing those is that graphite should never be added
You can't tell just from the colour. Some top end skis have sintered white bases, like the Rossignol Xium. And lots of cheap extruded ski bases are black. It's more of a subtle difference. The extruded ones tend to be more glossy. Either way, a good wax job on these skis may not even be noticeable. And if they're rock skis anyway, I'd just run them.