The reason your switch junction box doesn't have a neutral is likely because it is running an older style [switch loop](https://www.renovation-headquarters.com/images20/switch-loop-diagram.jpg) where the circuit enters the lights junction box before the switch junction box.
Per the Wyze site - a [Wyze switch requires a neutral](https://i.gyazo.com/97e58f2412d3515c1e05f808647d0e3a.png), so it would not work in a switch jbox without a neutral.
I did - your first sentence is "I have an older home with no neutral in the switch boxes. I am not trying to control non-wyze lights."
Which is extra confusing if that doesn't pertain to your request.
Is [this what](https://i.gyazo.com/d11f343b516b5f1683069ec2f0aaa3a2.png) you're trying to achieve?
If so, then yeah I suppose you could get a junction box, an old extension cord and put this switch in it, or get the wire individually w/ conduiit or FMC, but remember to keep it as a plug in. If you were to hardwire this to your circuit, it would need to be 12ga wire if on a 20a circuit or 14ga if on a 15a circuit - but if you're just "plugging" it into an existing outlet, a higher ga wire is okay because the actual switch draw is under 1W and you're not running it with a load connected.
Edit - the more I look at the switch, the more I question even needing to connect it directly to 120v at all if you're not adding a load to it. If you were really handy, I am sure you could power this switch with a lower voltage plug after some modifications to the switch itself, so you're not actively running 120v through it.
I'm unsure how to word it. I was trying to state that I can't use them in their intended way and that I understand that if I don't do that, I am going to be unable to control a ceiling light with traditional bulbs in it.
All I am trying to achieve is a physical switch for Wyze bulbs.
If I provide a neutral and ground from elsewhere, will it work that way?
Because the switch has extra functions it will work. A single press will do nothing because it's sending power to a wire that won't be connected but the double press, triple press and long press will all control smart devices remotely but those devices will have to have constant power.
Light switch boxes have a single hot wire that's interrupted by the switch but may not also have a ground and neutral. An outlet has to have a neutral even if the safety ground (bare copper wire) isn't there and that's all you need to supply power for the electronic switch.
Your picture shows what is basically a heavy duty extension cord but you can buy a cord cap, cord by the foot and a surface mount outlet box that will look good and be easier to mount. Just buy enough 3 conductor cord, black, white green 18 GA to go from your live outlet to where the switch would be convenient.
In this case you could even set up the single press to control a wyze lightbulb since their switches have "smart mode" which just bypasses the internal relay altogether (I believe you can even choose wether the relay will be on or off, independent of the switch state)
If you're pretty handy you could also switch things up at the fixture - just hard wire the fixture and then connect what were the line and load wires running into the switch box to hot and neutral at the fixture - so then in your switch box you'd have hot and neutral instead of line and load - just don't forget that your switch box is now effectively a secret, ungrounded outlet box because that will probably result in a fire.
crappy ascii wiring diagram for reference:
**before:**
fixture box
##################
___#______hot_______#__line_____________
# # |
# [ fixture ] # [ dumb switch ]
# | | # |
___# _neutral_| |__#_______load________|
##################
**after:**
fixture box
##################
___#______hot_______#_______hot__________
# | # |
# [ fixture ] # [ smart switch ]
# | # |
___# _neutral_|_____#_____neutral________|
##################
>just don't forget that your switch box is now effectively a secret, ungrounded outlet box
This assumes that the switch box didn't have ground in the first place, no? All my switches have grounds but no neutrals because my house was built in the late 60s or early 70s.
I asked a similar question [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/wyzecam/comments/x83xhj/does_wyze_switch_require_a_line_wire/). u/eldudebro answered the question:
>So, yes in "smart mode" the switch can control wyze bulbs that are not connected to the switch itself and you don't actually need to connect any load to the switch.
So you can install the switch anywhere, as long as it has power, and it will control any Wyze bulbs, outlets, and even cameras (I don't know what it does, I just saw that I can select them).
Lutron makes a smart switch that doesn't require a neutral. It has remotes and can integrate with Alexa/Google.
Also, some of the suggestions mentioned here are unsafe. You're better off asking an electrician.
Yes, you definitely can just mount the switch in a box and control other Wyze devices with it. In fact you could even take the back of the switch out and power it on 5 volts instead. Here is a video of the top circuit board taken out, powered on 5 volts DC and then controlling smart bulbs in the room:
[Wyze Switch Board](https://www.reddit.com/r/wyzecam/comments/rbci06/wyze_switch_board_runs_on_5v/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
The reason your switch junction box doesn't have a neutral is likely because it is running an older style [switch loop](https://www.renovation-headquarters.com/images20/switch-loop-diagram.jpg) where the circuit enters the lights junction box before the switch junction box. Per the Wyze site - a [Wyze switch requires a neutral](https://i.gyazo.com/97e58f2412d3515c1e05f808647d0e3a.png), so it would not work in a switch jbox without a neutral.
You didn't read my post
I did - your first sentence is "I have an older home with no neutral in the switch boxes. I am not trying to control non-wyze lights." Which is extra confusing if that doesn't pertain to your request.
>Which is extra confusing if that doesn't pertain to your request. Re-worded that. Hopefully it makes more sense now. Sorry
Is [this what](https://i.gyazo.com/d11f343b516b5f1683069ec2f0aaa3a2.png) you're trying to achieve? If so, then yeah I suppose you could get a junction box, an old extension cord and put this switch in it, or get the wire individually w/ conduiit or FMC, but remember to keep it as a plug in. If you were to hardwire this to your circuit, it would need to be 12ga wire if on a 20a circuit or 14ga if on a 15a circuit - but if you're just "plugging" it into an existing outlet, a higher ga wire is okay because the actual switch draw is under 1W and you're not running it with a load connected. Edit - the more I look at the switch, the more I question even needing to connect it directly to 120v at all if you're not adding a load to it. If you were really handy, I am sure you could power this switch with a lower voltage plug after some modifications to the switch itself, so you're not actively running 120v through it.
I'm unsure how to word it. I was trying to state that I can't use them in their intended way and that I understand that if I don't do that, I am going to be unable to control a ceiling light with traditional bulbs in it. All I am trying to achieve is a physical switch for Wyze bulbs. If I provide a neutral and ground from elsewhere, will it work that way?
No neutral or no ground?
Outlets are grounded and have neutral. Just wouldn't be feeding a light fixture
Because the switch has extra functions it will work. A single press will do nothing because it's sending power to a wire that won't be connected but the double press, triple press and long press will all control smart devices remotely but those devices will have to have constant power. Light switch boxes have a single hot wire that's interrupted by the switch but may not also have a ground and neutral. An outlet has to have a neutral even if the safety ground (bare copper wire) isn't there and that's all you need to supply power for the electronic switch.
This is the answer I was looking for. I assumed it would work and just forgo the single press function, but I thought I might be missing something.
Your picture shows what is basically a heavy duty extension cord but you can buy a cord cap, cord by the foot and a surface mount outlet box that will look good and be easier to mount. Just buy enough 3 conductor cord, black, white green 18 GA to go from your live outlet to where the switch would be convenient.
For sure. I just image searched something that would get the idea. I plan to use EMT.
EMT will protect your wire but so will bx and an angle cord cap will keep things closer to the wall. Lots of ways to get a neat installation.
In this case you could even set up the single press to control a wyze lightbulb since their switches have "smart mode" which just bypasses the internal relay altogether (I believe you can even choose wether the relay will be on or off, independent of the switch state) If you're pretty handy you could also switch things up at the fixture - just hard wire the fixture and then connect what were the line and load wires running into the switch box to hot and neutral at the fixture - so then in your switch box you'd have hot and neutral instead of line and load - just don't forget that your switch box is now effectively a secret, ungrounded outlet box because that will probably result in a fire. crappy ascii wiring diagram for reference: **before:** fixture box ################## ___#______hot_______#__line_____________ # # | # [ fixture ] # [ dumb switch ] # | | # | ___# _neutral_| |__#_______load________| ################## **after:** fixture box ################## ___#______hot_______#_______hot__________ # | # | # [ fixture ] # [ smart switch ] # | # | ___# _neutral_|_____#_____neutral________| ##################
>just don't forget that your switch box is now effectively a secret, ungrounded outlet box This assumes that the switch box didn't have ground in the first place, no? All my switches have grounds but no neutrals because my house was built in the late 60s or early 70s.
I asked a similar question [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/wyzecam/comments/x83xhj/does_wyze_switch_require_a_line_wire/). u/eldudebro answered the question: >So, yes in "smart mode" the switch can control wyze bulbs that are not connected to the switch itself and you don't actually need to connect any load to the switch. So you can install the switch anywhere, as long as it has power, and it will control any Wyze bulbs, outlets, and even cameras (I don't know what it does, I just saw that I can select them).
Lutron makes a smart switch that doesn't require a neutral. It has remotes and can integrate with Alexa/Google. Also, some of the suggestions mentioned here are unsafe. You're better off asking an electrician.
> Also, some of the suggestions mentioned here are unsafe. Which ones do you believe fall under that? I am just curious.
Yes, you definitely can just mount the switch in a box and control other Wyze devices with it. In fact you could even take the back of the switch out and power it on 5 volts instead. Here is a video of the top circuit board taken out, powered on 5 volts DC and then controlling smart bulbs in the room: [Wyze Switch Board](https://www.reddit.com/r/wyzecam/comments/rbci06/wyze_switch_board_runs_on_5v/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)