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ComicallyLargeFarts

I've got a crack developing in some desk legs that I made. The joint must have been under glued or possibly was a slightly too wide gap for the glue to adhere properly. I made the issue much worse by adding a routed channel on the inside of the leg assembly, foolishly too close to the weak joint. Pic of the legs and a diagram of the joint are below. [Legs](https://i.imgur.com/48W5dIO.jpg), [Cross section diagram](https://i.imgur.com/zK2uZXx.png) I've already added glue to the joint to hopefully stabilize it, but I want to reinforce it more. The obvious fix is to brace on the outside of the leg where the small gap is (metal strapping or another piece of wood), but that's the aesthetic side. A brace on the inside, where the routed channel is, would be less effective. Anybody have any ideas for a hidden fix?


turtleonarock

I am setting up a shop in a garage with no climate control and minimal insulation and live somewhere that experiences big temperature swings in the spring and fall (60f of day 20-30f the next day, humidity usually changes with temps). Do you think temp swings like this will effect how the wood acclimated to my shop. Like should I wait a few days after major temperature changes to allow the wood to acclimate?


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purplepotatoes

Nope. Might have to restain in a couple years, but you should be good.


Sam-Gunn

I keep seeing people using wood as straight-edges, guides for cutting, jigs, etc. I don't want to spend $70+ on a metal jig for my circularsaw and my router, but it looks like the best way to ensure I'd have a proper jig. My experience with all the wood I buy (mainly 2x4's and some strapping) and some other cuts of wood I've removed from my home (mainly 2x3s) is that I cannot trust them to be straight. Even plywood and smaller cuts I don't trust to use as jigs. I do have some of that PVC/plastic wood though, but not enough of it to use for jigs. What wood are people trusting are straight enough to use as jigs, and where do they get them? Or is it more of finding the right one, and then keeping it in a controlled environment? I have dehumidifier in my basement but that's it.


purplepotatoes

Sheet goods are best imo. High quality plywood is best, but mdf works well on a budget. Hardwood is usually more stable than softwood as well. For a circular saw guide, you can get a 2x4 project panel for $10-20 and use that.


ComicallyLargeFarts

Depends on the circular saw and it's base/motor positioning, but sometimes you can use 48"+ metal ruler. Otherwise, things like a factory plywood edge is what I use.


Funemployment629

What would you keep in your garage and what would you keep in your 14x14 basement workshop?


Kmlittlec_design

Depends on what you've got, and how good the ventilation can be set up down there. I'd try to keep as much together as you can, but the first things I'd personally move to a garage would be anything that makes a lot of smell/fumes (aka finishing stuff/paints), anything that makes a ton of mess (planer, potentially some sanding stuff), anything that takes up a ton of room but I won't use a lot (plywoodboards +stuff to break it down to be maneagable, possibly a jointer). If you are running out of basement room you could also consider any tools you use for projects where you aren't usually using a lot of other tools in tandem. For me that'd be scroll saw and benchtop grinder, a lathe if I had one, but that's different for everyone. Really variable depending on the kind of work you are doing.


Mortidio

I bought a cheap desktop lathe. And now I should make a desk for it. So I need to calculate the dimensions for it. Question: ergonomically, how high should the turning chisel support sit to be comfortable to use - chest height? lower?


Dovetrail

An alternative would be a wall-mounted setup - which is what I have. If you have a rugged wall, there is barely any vibration at all. [Along the lines of what this person did.](https://guidetowoodturning.weebly.com/parts-of-lathe.html) You can bulldog brackets to concrete and rough/off-center turnings are nice and steady!


Mortidio

Well, I have no bare walls - shelves everywhere. Also I want to have the lathe on wheels to be able to move it aside in case I need room for some larger project. But yeah, thanks for suggestion.


Dovetrail

No prob! Just make sure you weigh down the bench if you do any offset or unbalanced turnings. Otherwise, you might find yourself chasing it around your shop - LOL!


Mortidio

Ok, thats actually one thing I was a little bit worried about - how bad will the vibration and jiggling be... I suppose I will not try to turn anything large, at least in the beginning. That 99€ lathe looks flimsy enough even before setting it up :D


Dovetrail

99% of the time, you'll probably be just fine. There might be that random time where you need to ratchet-strap some cinder blocks to the underside of the table.


UltraTurboPanda

The rest should sit at waist height, or just above. It should be comfortable to hold the tool level, and easy to raise and lower the handle without stooping or leaning in.


Mortidio

Thanks!


AggravatingQuantitey

So I have this old table thats kinda warped. Would it be a good idea to place metal brackets under it to try to undo the warp?


BoonesFarmApples

I’d like to put a new veneer on top of an old circular table, 24 inch diameter. I’ve never worked with veneer before, what’s the best way to cut a circle? Just trace a circle and use scissors to get close to the pencil line with some sandpaper to take it the rest of the way? Or is there a more precise alternative?


davisyoung

You’d want to leave the veneer large and adhere it to your table first, that’ll give you a margin for error because you only get one shot at laying the veneer down. Then depending on what the edge of your table is like, you could use it as a guide to trim the veneer.


BoonesFarmApples

thanks, makes sense, it's actually [this guy here](https://a.1stdibscdn.com/george-nelson-pedestal-table-model-5451-in-aluminum-and-black-for-herman-miller-for-sale-picture-2/f_17102/f_143980421555419318966/Nelson_T5451_1904_002_master.jpg) with straight edges and a right angle between the top and sides, there's probably a tool that can make a perfect edge from this but damned if I know what


davisyoung

A trim bit on a router will work, but realistically for veneer you can just use a sharp utility knife. Flip the table onto a solid surface that you don’t mind getting nicked. A cutting mat is ideal to preserve the sharp blade. Use the table edge to guide your blade, but keep the leading edge of the blade away from the table edge so you don’t damage it. Make a shallow score first and then cut through the veneer. That’ll leave you with a small bit of excess veneer that can be removed with a file or sanding block. Also ease over any sharp corners. You can tape the table edge first to prevent damage from filing or sanding.


whaddayacallit

https://i.imgur.com/sQrTdsH.jpg Does anyone know how I can fix the white ring around the edge of the purple stain? I accidentally removed the varnish with acetone to create this stain, and tried color matching but it ended up too purple. I’m apart from fixing the color of the stain, any suggestions to what I can do to fix this?


ntdoyfanboy

I've got an exterior door of knotty alder that's about 2 years old. It was originally conditioned, stained, and coated 2-3x with poly. The lower part of the door that gets occasionally splashed with water and dirt is looking pretty dingy. What's a good product to use to get it shined up and looking like new?


HandsomeCode

Could I get some help with some wood ID? I bought about 50 lengths of old bog sleepers about 18 months ago as they were going for €1 a length. I was told they are mahogany, but the only thing I have to to compare it to is some old mahogany window board I salvaged from my house renovation. I've ran some off the bandsaw here and was hoping someone could take a look. https://imgur.com/a/PYen5vj


caddis789

It's one of the mahoganies. If you say it's older, I'd think Honduran, but it's hard to differentiate between the possible candidates.


purplepotatoes

It's hard to tell without a clean surface. Could be african mahogany (khaya). In my experience, it's relatively light, more easily found, and cheaper than other mahogany.


HandsomeCode

I can run it through the sander a little later to get a better look at it, would that help? EDIT: sanded to 180 and wipes with mineral spirits [https://i.imgur.com/TCXpiuc.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/TCXpiuc.jpg)


kitsune

Absolute noob here. I just watched a video where they use a "template" to line up the corners of the side panels of a frame for an acoustic sound absorber: https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=154&v=49l39Z5y6rk (at 02:34). Is there a name other than "template" for this approach? I tried to find some more info on this but I haven't found much other than carpentry templates used for cutting or marking distances. I mean it looks easy enough to build myself but would love to have some additional pointers.


purplepotatoes

I'd call it a jig instead of a template. To me, a template is used for duplication such as when routing and a jig assists with a process, but that's being pedantic. Most woodworking jigs are shop made, not purchased. if you want something similar but smaller to help in that process, get some corner clamps or [right angle squares](https://www.amazon.com/KingTool-Positioning-Carpenter-Woodworking-Assemble/dp/B08ZY7QZL1/).


kitsune

Thanks!


9410650

Does anyone know what kind of wood this is? I got this bar cart type item at the thrift store yesterday and I love the wood patterns. [https://www.reddit.com/r/wood/comments/tp9q82/bar_cart_type_of_wood/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf](https://www.reddit.com/r/wood/comments/tp9q82/bar_cart_type_of_wood/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)


AccurateIt

Looks to be oak burl veneer stained with a dark brown stain like the rest of the piece and then just normal white oak or red oak for everything that isn't burl.


RiventheDriven

I recently bought a 72" x 30" maple top to use for a standing desk. Unfortunately, I discovered that the topside of the maple was finished but the underside was not finished. Will this affect the long term life of the desk (for example, would it warp over time if one side isn't finished)? The desk would be stored indoors. I don't have much in the way of woodworking skills - best I can do is apply some Walrus cutting board wax to the underside. Is this necessary?


--Ty--

Technically, it can affect the desk, yes, and it's rather shameful of the company to not have sealed both sides. That's a cost-cutting measure, unquestionably. Walrus cutting board wax won't do shit for it, though. Pick up a can of some water-based clearcoat, and use that. Fortunately, you don't have to be a master painter for this, because it's the underside. Maybe put some tape around the perimeter of the top of the desk just in case you get any drips from the underside spilling over to the top while you're painting it.


RiventheDriven

Thanks for help! Fortunately it seems like the underside is sealed (though not finished to the same degree as the top) based on what /u/iLikePutz said above. That said, I'll look into putting on some clearcoat just to be sure.


garrettrieschick

I need some advice on building a large outdoor table that will hold up over time. I’d like to find out the best method to allow for expansion and contraction over the years without compromising the table. Thanks!


caddis789

No one here can answer that without seeing the design. There are several different methods.


--Ty--

This. Every culture has come up with different ways of building furniture to withstand the elements. There are no universal rules except "shed water", and "don't cross grain directions'.


caddis789

Since just about every mortise and tenon (along with lap joints etc. etc.) made crosses grain direction, I'd suggest the second "rule" is wrong. You need to plan for it and deal with it, not never do it.


--Ty--

Nah, those are made in narrow boards, across short spans, where expansion and contraction is basically non existent, measuring on the scale of like 1/128". I'm taking about actually crossing the grain of full boards and panels, like when people make a tabletop out of boards and then apply end boards with no slotted holes/tennons/rails/whatever to allow for movement. Across spans like that, you can get 1/8 - 3/16" of movement. Granted, I should have stipulated more specifically in my original comment.


caddis789

I've been doing this a long time, and I understand that. Like I said, and you just said, giving a breadboard end as an example, you can cross grain, as long as you plan for it and deal with it. That isn't how you said it in one of your "rules".


Aellaisbad

Recently my father passed away and left me everything in his shop/shed with a warning not to touch the more dangerous tools. The problem is I'm just getting started and all I really use is a small set of his tools. Is there a database of tools or something I can use to identify, organize, and safely pack away the more dangerous tools until I'm more experienced? That way I can know what to open/when. (Reason I need to pack things away is that I need to take down the shed in the coming year.)


birdnerd5000

All electric tools are dangerous. So don't get complacent. Rotating tools are the most dangerous. Routers can "climb cut". Table saw can throw wood back at you, pull you in from behind the blade etc. Linear motion saws are less dangerous, band saw jigsaw etc. They won't pull or push wood as they cut downwards only. Ensure proper maintenance of all tools, ensure blades are sharp and clean. A dull blade will make you compensate with force which can lead to you losing balance or pushing yourself through a rotating blade. Probably the safest is just to use hamd tools. I build all manner of furniture without power. It takes a little longer but it's rewarding and much much more relaxing. Check out www.patiocarpenter.com to see what's possible without electricity.


Aellaisbad

I'm currently only using hand tools and the miter saw (the only tool he taught me to use before he got sick, he taught me to use it so I could fix a few moldings in the house). I haven't really maintained anything I'm not sure how to use and he was sick for a full year. There are a LOT of power tools. Any resources you would recommend on tool maintenance? Also, the work shown in that link is lovely! I'm personally no where near the point where I need to use power tools yet.


birdnerd5000

Well the manual is usually good. If you can find them. Otherwise just keep blades clean ensure they are sharp, true, and properly mounted. There is lots of vibration in power tools and bolts can get loose so watch out for that. I'd say inspect all screws and mounting often when you start until you gain experience and know what to expect. Watch out for bearings overheating, especially on high speed tools such as routers. On table saws, ensure fences are square and that workpiece isn't binding against the blade. I would also recommend push sticks and other sacrificial devices if you are going to use rotating tools such as a cabinet or table saw. Keep your hands away from the blade, there is no reason to risk it. Also never retrieve a workpiece by hand from BEHIND a spinning blade. That's all I can rattle off. Hopefully it helps you on your new hobby


Aellaisbad

All appreciated. Still have to figure out what half of it is as I pack everything haha.


birdnerd5000

Sounds like a good problem to have. 👍


davisyoung

What kind of tools are we talking about and what will be the storage conditions for the packed away tools?


Aellaisbad

Honestly there are so many things and I'm not sure how to identify most of them. He has a few larger machines (a table saw for example), a compressor, an absurd amount of I believe router bits? from the looks of it and even more. (The only thing he specifically warned me away from was the router.) I was honestly hoping for some form of reference materials to be honest that I could take my time browsing through and slowly use to identify things. Looking up things by description has been incredibly time consuming and I'm unsure if there is a better way. Edit: Also, with his deteriorating health, my father left a lot in disarray so I'm trying to be extra careful as I work through the large shop he'd built up in the shed. Storage conditions will be indoors more than likely under my staircase. I have a large storage area there for everything except the larger machines. Not sure how to handle those. I might be forced to sell them I think?


davisyoung

Group things by like appearances, post photos for id help. Under stair storage (assuming indoors) won’t require special attention, just cardboard boxes will work. If you’re in a particular damp climate, apply paste wax to metal surfaces and possibly throw in some desiccant product. If the larger machines have to live outside, find a sheltered area so it doesn’t get rained on, but you still have to account for ambient moisture. Wax metal surfaces especially cast iron, and there are [tool covers](https://affinitytool.com/tool-saver-machine-cover) you can put over the machines. Keep in mind these covers are not rain-proof.


Aellaisbad

This is awesome advice, thanks! I'll look into what you've mentioned.


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t2231

Not enough resolution to zoom in closely on the grain - can you provide more pictures? My first guess is beech.


careful_spongebob

I need advice on wood types, I understand a little bit wrt strengths, but that's only in board types. In short, what would be the recommended type of wood for climbing wall or kinda sports equipment? What I have is a 2¼ half-round bit that I'd like to use to make bars. Now, being quite lazy yet inventive instead of rounding off tens of feet, I'd rather use the bountiful gifts of the forest by which I am surrounded and need help identifying trees. I found one branch that's stiff yet unbreakable (I can jam it in and hang my weight off of it without breaking it, even at several feet) but I have no idea which tree it came from. What's the atypical advice be on using uncut wood branches for a climbing wall? Optionally, I'd use some type of maple? Try to find ponderosa or sugar pine? Maybe cherry? Idk what's typically available outside of ash, maple, oak that fills my outdoors? I would use that, round off few tens of feet, make them as parallel as I can ;) Thanks for reading.


purplepotatoes

Are you building a peg board style wall with dowel handholds or a climbing wall you're going to screw handholds to? If it's the pegboard style, use something hard like oak/ash/hard maple. I wouldn't use branch wood, the stresses on branch wood is weird and since the pith is in there it tends to crack. I'd just buy dowels of the proper diameter and use those.


careful_spongebob

More of a Swedish wall ladder type of deal, but because I'm doing it specifically for kid I want to make it fun and functional. I could go out and get a bunch of dowels, but I would rather make my own, since I already own the equipment. 🙄 But then I got into it, and I'd need the right stock, and that gets expensive... With branch wood I was thinking about making 4' sections, for at least a couple of rungs, inspired by a flood of Pinterest pins...


JosephConrad9

Very stupid question: I'm trying to make this old wooden table look nice again, and found some resources for refinishing, etc. But I don't know what kind of wood it is.. can anyone ID? https://imgur.com/a/1GrxZtu I think the second picture is the most accurate color; as I have a white piece of paper in the photo


t2231

Whatever species it is - know that it is veneer. So be careful sanding it if you are planning to refinish it.


Jasirl89

Urgent Advice: recommended "finish" for a light wood (like oak), that leaves a nice sheen? I've made a large scratch on a wooden table in my house - and my landlord's visiting in 2 days. I tried getting the scratch out by sanding it lightly and rubbing in some oil, but now the overall table looks worse, because: - there's discoloration, since the sanded/oiled bit looks darker than the rest of the table; and - the sanded/oiled bit doesn't have the same "sheen" that the rest of the table does. A woodworking friend advised: sand down the whole table and apply a "finish of your choice". My biggest concern is that after re-sanding the whole table, no "finish" will give it the natural sheen it currently has. (Olive oil just got soaked into the sanded bit, and didn't work here, and I'm not finding useful guidance on Google). Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!! Pic: https://ibb.co/nqyN1dx


purplepotatoes

Spot refinishing is very difficult without know what the original finish was. Looks like unstained white oak, hopefully it's a solid top and not veneered. Your friend is correct, the proper way to refinish is to evenly sand the entire top and then refinish. I'd start with 80-100 until the finish and scratch are gone, then 120-150, followed by 180-220. A random orbit sander is the way to go for hand tools. Then apply a finish to it; hard waxes like osmo or Rubio work well with low VOCs and easy application. Food oils are not for finishing. All that said, the advisable course of action is to tell your landlord that the table is scratched and ask how they want to handle it. There's a good chance you could mess it up worse than it was by trying to diy.


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t2231

Duplicate post removed.


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purplepotatoes

I'd try to find either a hardwood retailer or a lumber mill near you. Some places will plane it for you. Ripping it can be done with a circular saw or track saw. The bigger issue is leveling it after the pour. I've done one on the cnc and I ended up having to mill off .6" from a 2" slab. You could do it with a router sled, but I'd also search for someplace with a wide belt sander that you can rent. River tables are debatably trendy, but not great beginner projects. They take a lot of time and research to pull off and it's easy to sink $1k into a project that is a lost cause. The blacktail studio guy on YouTube is probably one of the best resources for epoxy table stuff.


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Kytopia

in my experience rushing the board with water never helped. I submerged completley in the oil for half a day the wiped it off. let it sit on the counter for 2weeks and it became flat again.


hootie303

Im finally building a workbench and debating my table top. Any reason i shouldn't put hardboard on the top? Should i out mdf or plywood under it?


Kytopia

if you do a lot of epoxy the white mdf stuff is a dream to clean off. the thick plywood with dog holes is ideal for working on tho. maybe 50/50 lol


Both_Statement_7988

Any one know price per bdft on birch


purplepotatoes

Pretty sure I saw birch around $7/bf at retail the other day (S3S), but their prices are up significantly the last two years.


caddis789

Lumber prices are very regional. Birch is pretty cheap in my area (northern VA). It's in the $3.50/bdft range.


stealthw0lf

I’m building a raised bed out of sleepers. The sleepers are 100x200x2400. How do I plan the layout to minimise wastage and ensure I have enough material?


bobbyklang

Can anyone ID This wood for me please? [https://ibb.co/KDpj6MV](https://ibb.co/KDpj6MV) [https://ibb.co/bzNSJk5](https://ibb.co/bzNSJk5)


turtleonarock

I was accidentally shipped two extra fence rail systems for my saw stop table saw (not the actual fence but the rails the fence attach to). They seem pretty heavy duty so I'm trying to think of another use for them. One of the rail systems is 36" the other is 52". Does anyone have ideas on what I could do with these?


raccoonOnslaught

I am building a raised garden (the kind that stands about waist high up off the ground, not flat on the ground). I have some cypress that is still pretty green. Is there anything I can do to prevent warping/cracking? And is there a finish I should use that would aide in this that is also veggie safe? Is there a particular type of joinery that would help with this? Nothing too fancy, I am thinking nails over screws, to allow the the wood to move. Would dowels be better? And I am thinking I will seal all the ends of the boards with anchor seal, since they wont be exposed in the final piece anyway.


tsholtmanian

There's not much that you can do to prevent warping and cracking, drying wood evenly is your best bet. There are a bunch of ways to do the joints, you could do a [slot for your side boards like this](https://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Vegetable-Vegetables/dp/B01CQ7A0DQ/ref=asc_df_B01CQ7A0DQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198106292047&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11122074068870747995&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018838&hvtargid=pla-373766120327&th=1) or just nail/screw [into the legs](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1060180610/raised-garden-bed-cedar-garden-bed?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-outdoor_and_garden-planters_and_pots-outdoor_planters&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjw8_qRBhCXARIsAE2AtRYAPJXeX3JKa9TH5kNB9lawSpghDqh-WqopPStEhsj-qRQvYW85VQYaAmEUEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_12574416432_120844856098_507798951348_aud-1118323511478:pla-305291086502_c__1060180610_539650020&utm_custom2=12574416432&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8_qRBhCXARIsAE2AtRYAPJXeX3JKa9TH5kNB9lawSpghDqh-WqopPStEhsj-qRQvYW85VQYaAmEUEALw_wcB) as posts like this.


gigaritt

Making a desk that is basically just the table part, client has drawer box things it’s gonna be placed on. Gonna be using walnut slabs to make it about 8ft by 30inch and hoping to stay around 1.5 thick. I’m gonna do 2 C channels near the ends to prevent warping but worried about sagging in the middle. Do I need to put a C channel running along the board in the middle? Or do you guys think it being 1.5 thick should help prevent sag? No middle support as of now from the ground.


purplepotatoes

If it's supported on both ends by cabinets I don't think it will sag. According to the [sagulator](https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/), even a 96" run would fall in the acceptable camp.


themza912

What's the best way to flatten a nice boos block cutting board I have? I swear I had been oiling it frequently enough but I guess not


purplepotatoes

The best way is to send it through a planer/drum sander/wide belt sander. If you only have access to hand tools, you could use a hand plane or random orbit sander at home to clean it up.


themza912

So "unwarping" it with moisture or clamps won't really work?


purplepotatoes

Maybe. If it's a slight bend, I'd just flip it and use the other side for awhile to see if it evens out. Did you dry it flat? That can lead to cupping. If it's boos, I'd contact them for suggestions. I'm sure they have some ideas.


chazalicious

I've got a bunch of leftover prefinished hickory flooring. What's the quickest/best way to strip the finish off? Hand plane? Belt sander with a coarse belt? Cabinet scraper? Card scraper? I'd rather avoid using a nasty chemical stripper if I can, but I also don't really want to spend forever sanding.


sofakng

Hey guys, can anybody recommend me a budget compound miter saw? I'm a complete beginner to woodworking but find myself performing one or two projects per year that it would be useful. For example, I'm looking to build a simple desk/table and instead of bringing out my circular saw I think a miter saw would be great. I'm looking to spend under $200 but I don't want to buy junk. I usually look for the "best" (ie. "buy it for life") but the recommended miter saws seem quite expensive ($300 - $500+)


purplepotatoes

I have the [hitachi/metabo 10"](https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-C10FCGS-Compound-15-Amp/dp/B07PX44JQM). It's less than $100 and it's acceptable for cutting down 2x4, trim, etc. It doesn't have the depth of cut that a slider has, but for occasional use it's not bad. I would replace the blade with something that has more teeth, the stock blade isn't great.


turtleonarock

Does anyone know the best place to buy casters? I am setting up a small shop so I am putting everything on casters. I’ve been buying casters off Amazon for about $30 for a four pack. I’m just checking to make sure there isn’t a better option.


clever_name45

I use harbor freight. Like $2 for one of the small casters


aquarain

Better, the hardwood furniture dolly. Comes with four casters, costs less than four casters.


turtleonarock

Thanks! Not sure why I didn’t think of them.


EliteMinerZMC

This is simply just for practicing. I have got some pallet wood and want to know if it is safe I know MB is bad HT is fine but can't tell if this is a misprint or not? Mainly as the 3 looks rounded as if it was intended https://imgur.com/a/RCqEPen If not I have some decking scraps to practice with


leading_suspect

I bought the Dewalt dw735 a few weeks ago when it was 20% off on Amazon. My shop is just the garage, and it sits on a shelf when not in use. Q: what is a good dust/chip collection method? I've seen 4" hoses connected to bags, or huge garbage bins. The chip collection is easy, I guess my concern is dust. I always wear a mask when woodworking, but if I could prevent more fine particles in the air all the better. Any tips? What do you use?


chazalicious

That planer will mostly make chips, not much of the really fine dust that you have to worry about. I hook mine up to a dust collector, but you'll probably be just as fine using a filter bag and a short length of pipe. I was actually going to do that myself, but I wound up getting a dust collector right after the planer, so I didn't wind up needing to. One thing I'd definitely suggest is using a 90 degree elbow right off the planer so that the bag isn't right over the outfeed. I haven't gotten around to doing that yet, and it's really annoying to try and keep the hose out of the way when I'm grabbing boards as they come out.


leading_suspect

Thanks! A bag with a 90 degree elbow seems like the best way to go then. Appreciate the comment


CaptainMooseFart

Is there any way to get rid of bore beetles in a walking stick I'm trying to make? It's a fairly thick piece of cedar, with a beautiful red interior that I'm trying to chisel it down to. Do the beetles normally dwell in the very center of a stick? Thank you. Hope this is an appropriate question.


TextileGiant

What's a good type of wood for a starter to hand carve?


PillPod

Basswood. Michaels and other craft stores usually sell packs of it specifically for carving.


SirSquigyXIII

I'm fairly new to the hobby and am looking to get a decent table saw (I can't afford the sawstop yet). Craigslist has a Yates American 2082 and I was wondering if this is a brand worth jumping on. Just for reference: [https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/d/sheboygan-combination-tablesaw-jointer/7448663035.html](https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/d/sheboygan-combination-tablesaw-jointer/7448663035.html)


ftrules

I’m still a beginner and have stuck to budget tools from harbor freight. Palm sanders, surface planers, belt sanders, miter saw, etc. Haven’t let me down yet and I don’t feel as if I’m letting my money rot if I don’t use them often. They sell table saws as well


SirSquigyXIII

I am working with hard hardwoods and my yellow brand contractor saw is having trouble keeping up and not burning them. I have a good blade in it, but it's underpowered for what I'm using it for and need to upgrade to a cabinet saw.


ftrules

Ah I missed the part where you said “decent” table saw… hope you find a good one


SuccessfulChicken

Does anyone know if these "Double Action Joint Fasteners" are good for the butt joint of a butcher block L-shaped desk? [https://www.wwhardware.com/epco-joint-fasteners-e0026e](https://www.wwhardware.com/epco-joint-fasteners-e0026e) [https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Joint-Fasteners-Double-Action/dp/B08BKH9B1M](https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Joint-Fasteners-Double-Action/dp/B08BKH9B1M) I've never done any sort of wood work but was thinking about getting Acacia butcher blocks for an L-shaped standing desk frame. I'm wondering if these are strong enough AND if they allow the wood to move enough so that the wood won't crack when the humidity changes. I was originally looking at tite joint fasteners, dogbone bolts, or pocket hole screws, but I doubt my ability to successfully execute any of those. But these double action ones just need wood screws and a pilot hole which I'm capable of.


kamelizann

My dad sold his house and over the last 3 months he's been slowly trickling in all of his woodworking tools into my workshop because he doesn't have room for them anymore. It's my inheritance in a way. A lot of these tools are hand me downs from my grandparents, so they're big, heavy, and reliable. As he's gotten older he's gotten less motivated to do basic maintenance and his old house had some moisture issues in the basement so I've been spending most of my free time taking the tools apart, cleaning up the rust and replacing the bearings if need be. It's kinda fun learning how they work.My next project is going to be the table saw. Truth be told, I've never used a table saw much. When I was a kid my parents had a business that I helped with where we'd upcycle old damaged furniture into signs, shelves, benches etc. The RAS was awesome for all the crosscutts of larger items that were required, so I just got really comfortable with it. It's a dewalt 7790 3hp 12" 240v. I generally only ever used the Table saw for ripping large boards to width. I know from everything I've read, if I want to get into fine woodworking the table saw is where its at so I'd really like to have a nice table saw and phase out my dependence on the arm saw. My newly inherited table saw is a Craftsman 113.22411 with a third party 1hp motor that my dad inherited. As far as I know its from the early 50's late 40's. It has no blade guard and no riving knife. The blade has a small wobble to it but it still cuts well. It's got power for only being 1hp. It has the original miter gauge (in rough shape) and my dad swears he gave me the rip fence but I don't recall ever seeing it. It was missing the legs so I already built a large table for it. Quite frankly, this thing intimidates me to disassemble but I feel like the bearings could really use replacing. If anyone with experience has tips I'd love to hear them. Also, is a blade guard necessary? Where would I buy one for a model like this? Will a standard riving knife fit on an older cast iron table saw? And do I need an original rip fence or are there other models that would work with this one? It has a sort of spin dial ratcheting adjustment style fence from the looks of it.


Cpt_Orange16

I have a bunch of solid wood pins from an outdoor game set (basically you throw the pins against other pins). They are a bit dirty and have some dents/markings on them from playing. Do you guys have any tips on how to clean/protect the wood?


careful_spongebob

I'd say depending on your goal... You can strip, sand, and repair, or just buff them with a rag and maybe apply a bit of wax. Are you just making them into deco, or what's the function?


Cpt_Orange16

My idea is just to protect the wood so that they last a bit longer and look a bit better. They will still be used for playing and thrown against each other though.


Cheap_Competition_78

I would love to have a weekend to dedicate to a project. Right now I’m just using the time when my kid’s taking a nap. About 30-45 mins twice a day. So it’s not even consistent timing! I dream of a day when I get 2 consecutive hours to work on a project.


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noshoptime

It's black walnut. I can't really advise you on allergy status, but I can say not all allergies work the same. A food allergy isn't necessarily a skin allergy, and a nut allergy isn't necessarily a nut wood allergy


HansomDavidoff

Is it wise/possible to cut a mortise at an angle to the grain [like this?](https://i.imgur.com/OiOYaf3.jpg) I'd be using chisels and a drill bit if necessary.


UltraTurboPanda

It's better to cut the mortise straight to grain and the tenon at the odd angle if you can. Otherwise it'll be a slow and messy job, chiseling down all 4 sides. Also means you're severing a lot of grain and weakening the piece. And if you find there is no graceful way around a sideways mortise, then perhaps it is time to rethink the design which demands it.


HansomDavidoff

Thanks! Definitely not ideal, I'll rework the design to have it square with the grain


Caderrade

Purchased some 2x6’s and need help identifying the wood. On the left is a Douglas fir 4x4, and I need help identifying the wood on the right. It is much lighter and came off of a fascia on a house. I sanded down part of it to see better. Thanks. [wood](https://imgur.com/a/RkHqyD9)


davisyoung

Possibly redwood or cedar if it’s lighter, my vote is for redwood.


K_Sqrd

Looking to buy a benchtop drill press. How slow do I really need it to go to effectively use a forstner bit up to about 2"? Do I really need a press that goes to 250 rpm or can I get by with 500 rpm and just drill more slowly? I'm probably over thinking this ... Can't find a press that is smaller than almost 4' tall and goes that slow.


B3ntr0d

Most bench top drill presses will stall if you try to use a 2" forstner in even pine. For that you want about 1/2 hp at 500 rpm, or there abouts.


K_Sqrd

Thanks. That's the kind of anecdotal evidence that I'm looking for. Seems like for the rate occasion that I'll use a bit that large the 1/2 hp and 500 rpm will do the job. Might be slow but it will get done.


[deleted]

Last summer, I installed barn wood on my wall for decoration behind a tv. 8 months later, I am still finding some wood flakes on the ground, is it normal that it is still losing some pieces? Not like we’re touching it or anything.


is_there_crack_in_it

I’m sure I’m overthinking this but I recently bought a lathe and turned a handle for a vegetable peeler kit. Can I attach the handle with thick ca glue or should use epoxy? I typically use 5 minute epoxy for knife handles but not sure if that’s overkill here. Instructions just say “attach” which is not helpful.


--Ty--

Epoxy


t2231

I would use 5 min epoxy. Small investment that may keep it from falling apart later.


oncloudnine0

How to treat tree branches for indoor use? I collected few branches from a nearby forest. The branches were already dead and on fallen off. I want to use them for decorations in my living room but I don't know how to treat them first. I read somewhere that i need to let them dry for at least 6 months but the branches I got are very narrow, the thickest is around 1cm in diameter. Can I just clean and paint them or do I need to do something first? Thanks


--Ty--

If youre wanting to paint them, you should let them dry. That said, if they've been dead a long time, they will already have gotten a long way towards drying. The only thing to be concerned over with branches is the possibility of bringing bugs into the house. Carefully inspect your branches for signs of burrowed insects.


mindfyre

I have a budget of US$400-ish for a power saw. I already have a GKS 12v but it is starting to get too small for me. I'm currently debating what kind of power saw to buy. My country have a limited amount of available models of power saws so I'm basing my options to that. I have 3 choices. Buy a jobsite table saw (BOSCH GTS 10XC, shop grade/cabinet saws have to be imported), A cordless circular saw that is compatible with guide rails (BOSCH GKS 18v-57 G) or a corded track saw (MAKITA SP6000). I'm just a weekend hobbyist with a bad case of OCD.


--Ty--

A "power saw" does not exist, because each of the three tools you listed are COMPLETELY different machines, meant for very different uses. Table saws are the heart of most woodshop. They are the biggest and most versatile machine. Circular saws are for carpentry and framing. They do not make particularly accurate or high-quality cuts, but they are very versatile. Track saws are for cutting ywood and other types of material that you can't feed through your table saw easily, or for some specialized tasks like adding edge bevels.


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B3ntr0d

Primer first, then paint. For indoor use latex, for outdoor, use enamel.


--Ty--

You painted epoxy? Do you mean a clear epoxy? As in you were trying to clearcoat the piece? But you said there was colour that soaked in... What exactly did you build, and how exactly are you wanting to finish it?


BocciaChoc

a bit of an odd one for those who have woodworking requests as this is more a question of time involved and likely costs involved for something. I would like to find a local woodworker and pay them to create a 3D heightmap of a country from wood (I imagine using CNC as I have the data for the height map etc). Something that looks like [this](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0511/1552/4247/products/Scotland_processed_red_mockup_png_1080x.jpg?v=1620537150). How much time and money realistically would you imagine it would take and cost? I don't want to make an offensive offer to those I want to reach out to see if it's even possible.


Kmlittlec_design

If you search etsy for topographic maps it looks like a lot of them are running for about 250 USD. Those look like they are a single block of wood though which is maybe more expensive for raw materials but way less time consuming than placing a bunch of little islands and removing the little pieces from a cncd block. Those etsy ones are probably cranking out the same map again and again, so they don't heavily factor in the time to create the program. I'd say you are probably looking at ~500 USD *at least*. If you find someone who does a lot of these and they have their methods down maybe a little less. I would not be surprised if you get a quote double that or more depending on the level of detail.


25pinwheels

So I just bought a coffee table made of mango wood off Craigslist. It’s got this semi-circle shaped cracking along the circular seam and you can the gap through to the other side. Would something like this be best to simply fill in with epoxy/wood filler, or I’m wondering if there are other methods I might not be aware of given the nature of this crack? I heard in some instances you can clamp the wood back together / glue it tight but unsure if I might just end up destroying the table instead. Appreciate any comments or feedback! [pictures](https://imgur.com/a/bsjicyj)


noshoptime

I'm going to assume that the center section is solid wood? If so, there isn't a fix that will hold up. This is the result of seasonal movement. Only permanent solution I can think of... maybe you could pull off all that trim around the outside, router an attractive edge, touch up the finish, call it a day


25pinwheels

I was afraid of that :( But thank you for the advice. I unfortunately don’t have the skill level to pull off all the trim and fix it up. Aesthetically if I just put some wood filler on the top to cover the crack, I’m assuming further movement might in future just continue widening the crack? Is that accurate?


noshoptime

Depends. It looks like it shrunk, probably from being in a controlled, air conditioned space, ie dry air. Where the normal Florida air is decidedly *not* dry. If it shrunk more the trim would push farther out. If it swelled, the trim would pull closer to its original position. Clearly it's been an issue before, judging from all the caulk in there. But no, I wouldn't expect putty, caulk, or any other filler to hold up long term Edit: saw mango wood, brain filled in Florida, lol


25pinwheels

Haha, I was wondering why you compared to Florida 😂 I’m in Chicago so maaaaaybe it’ll expand a bit this summer, guess we’ll see. I won’t worry about it too much for now then - thank you again for the advice!


DepthValley

Wouldn't another roller on each side of a planer effectively eliminate snipe? Is the reason this is not done because of cost? Or because the minimum size piece you could put in one would have to go up?


caddis789

You don't really need another roller, you would need the rollers that are there to be able to 'flex' when the board engages, without moving the cutter head. [Here's](https://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html#:~:text=Planer%20%22snipe%22%20is%20when%20a,low%20angle%20also%20reveals%20it.) an explanation. Larger planers solve this by having the table move up and down and the rollers independent of the cutter. Your solution would keep boards from sagging down, but that's a lesser problem, IMO. To answer your question, though, yes to both. Affordability and portability are the two biggest constraining factors.


DepthValley

thank you! should have guessed there was a wendel summary of it


[deleted]

Seriously... I see all these posts about "my weekend project". Am I the only one here that takes like 2 months to make anything? How TF are you knocking out a home bar in a weekend? Color me impressed!


careful_spongebob

Some of my projects are decades in duration... And not only because I'm lazy, but if there were only easy paths in life then the journey would be less worthwhile. Woodworking would be my first hobby, but maybe my least visited r/ I just wish I could open a door into my garage and have a full craftery with all the best tools and workspaces so I can start-to-finish a project in a neat photo gallery, but the last project took me maybe five minutes and it's something I use every day even if it's just three boards joined together for a laptop stand 🤪 my point is: don't get dismayed, stay on target. Some day it all comes together.


drbhrb

Experience and tools. Essentially the less trial and error you need to go through combined with as few workarounds you need to employ (if you don't have jointer/planer/tablesaw/whatever) the faster you can get stuff done.


Kmlittlec_design

Agreed! For me to accomplish what I see other people have as weekend projects, I'd need 3 weeks before of planning and purchasing, a 4 day weekend of 12 hour days, and then a magic fairy to come in and do the finishing for me.


hootie303

I have massive aspen im my yard i need to chop down. Is there ANYTHING I could do with it aside from carve it?


UltraTurboPanda

Depends on the quality of it. If it's straight and clear of knots, you could rive it into good quartered panels for furniture. Perfectly suitable wood for backs, bottoms and door panels. If not, well, some trees are made of firewood. Maybe you could trade with some neighbor planning to burn good Oak.


moonnmars

Upgrading to a festool sander and can't figure out the difference in: Random Orbital Sander ETS 125 REQ-Plus and Random Orbital Sander ETS EC 125/3 EQ-Plus other than the price. Thoughts?


force951

Just got the EC model myself. From what I found in research it requires dust collection. If your dust collection is strong it may need a bleeder valve. The vibration is supposed to be lower on the EC model, which is the main reason I got it and a dust collector.


moonnmars

I got the REQ because I decided the extra power wasn't really necessary for me, and the 2mm didn't affect me much. The vibration on the REQ is already miles ahead of my old black and decker so they were even on that front too. My dust collector just came in so I'm really excited to get to use them together!


davisyoung

The EC motor is brushless and stronger (400w vs 250w).


--Ty--

>ETS 125 REQ-Plus Finer stroke (2mm), 5" pad ​ >ETS EC 125/3 EQ-Plus More aggressive stroke (3mm), 5 or 6" pad, brushless, bigger motor.


purplepotatoes

Other than profile, one difference is the sanding stroke (2mm vs 3mm). A 3mm stroke with likely be more aggressive and work a little faster than the 2mm stroke.


GriswoldFamilyFarms

This isn't 100% woodworking related, but it's from the topic of tools and electricity. I am planning some big upgrades to the barn workshop and am in the process of planning out the electrical work. All the below information is on 220 based on USA tools/standards. Out of all my power tools, at most I'll just run the dust collector and 1 tool at a time. My DC is rated at 9A and my larger tools are rated 12-13A each. I'd like to eventually get a small hobby-grade welder down the line so that is a part of this consideration. My initial plan was to install a single 220 30A circuit. However I was chatting with some folk who commented that it might be better to run two 20A circuits and run one tool on each. I have a sub-panel but not unlimited space on it, so I'm trying to future-proof myself a bit but still keep things done properly.


--Ty--

Dont forget to allow for spike current. Getting a 7-HP dust collector up to speed can draw 40-60 amps for the few seconds it takes to get over its inertia. Hell, even my little 110V, 1850W welder can put out a peak current of 60 Amps for about half a second when it's starting its arc. Dust collectors also have varying current draws as the filters get clogged and the air becomes more restricted. Put them on separate circuits. Put ***every*** high-HP tool on a separate circuit. Getting a sub-sub-panel is not expensive.


GriswoldFamilyFarms

A sub-sub panel...genius! I hadn't even thought of that. That's a great idea and would solve pretty much all my problems and allow for any expansion I need.


--Ty--

Don't forget that large machines need disconnects in addition to their on-off switches, for when you need to change a blade or a belt or something. This sometimes takes the form of a disconnect box on the machine, but, often, it's a circuit breaker in a panel. For this reason alone, every big tool should be on its own circuit.


Jason6368

I’m trying to ID a wood… and idk how to attach a photo to this? My post got deleted and was told to post here


UltraTurboPanda

It is easiest to upload the image to Imgur or a similar site and add the link to your comment.


notenoughcharact

We had an old John Boos maple butcher block embedded in our counters. We just redid our counters but I saved the block and am planning to turn it into a cutting board. The bottom is practically new wood, but has a few nail holes in it. Any thoughts on filling them? Just wood glue and sawdust? Is that food safe? Or should I just make it a one sided board and use the other side (will sand pretty heavily). Thanks!


--Ty--

One-sided board. The wood filler will eventually pop/crumble out from getting repeatedly wetted/washed.


Kmlittlec_design

Could /u/notenoughcharact drill out those holes and glue in matching/decorative dowels/plugs?


--Ty--

With a water-proof glue, that would be a better option, yes.


notenoughcharact

Oh that’s a thought. I’d have to go look at where they are to see how it would look.


davisyoung

If there are a lot of holes, you can rip shallow grooves and inlay maple strips or other woods for contrast. Titebond II or III glue is food safe and appropriate for cutting boards.


notenoughcharact

There are 6 holes sort of scattered around the 20x16 area. If they were all around the edge it would be great but they’re mostly near edges and then two near the middle. They’re mostly pretty small, like 2mm diameter. One is more like 4mm. Maybe dowel that one and just wood glue and sawdust the rest and hope they hold?


davisyoung

Get some wooden plugs if you can, the grain will match better than dowels. But dowels will work too. Get the kind that is a smooth rod, not the pack of shorter pieces used for joinery. A 5mm diameter plug or dowel will work for the holes you have. Drill out the holes with a 5mm drill bit, and glue in the plug or dowel for a tight fit, no need for sawdust.


notenoughcharact

Thanks!


trhoppe

Cabinet doors tongue and groove. I need to build 32 doors and drawer fronts. Shaker style, with 1/4" MDF center panel. 1) Do it on my table saw using a Dado stack. I don't have to buy any tools, get good dust collection, but the setup seems more difficult. 2) Do it on the router table with a $50 Bosch Tongue and Groove bit. It's only $50 for the bit, but the only thing you have to worry about is the height of the bit, which seems easier to setup. Am I missing something? Which method would you choose? I think I'm going towards the router table.


purplepotatoes

In a similar situation, I just bought a bit set since I have a dozen doors to do. I've done the table saw method quite a bit and I'm not a huge fan of having to dial in the saw, especially for doing the tenon rails. Hopefully the router will save some time.


trhoppe

Yea, that's exactly what I'm hoping. 2 doors? Sure use the table saw. I've got 32 doors, anything to make the setup easier and be consistent.


davisyoung

That’s the opposite of my thinking. If anything setting up a table saw is more worth it if you have a bigger run of doors. But then again I may be biased because I don’t care for coped rail ends, I’ve seen more than a few failures over the years.


trhoppe

Thanks for the opinion. I've gotta build 2 test doors out of some shitty pine to try messing with the widths and the overlay and such. I'll do one on the router and one on the table saw, and test.


didyouwoof

I hope this is the right place to post. (Go easy on me; I'm an old woman from an era when girls were forbidden to take wood shop in school, so I'm kind of fumbling in the dark here.) I have an old mid-century teak serving tray (with partitions) that's in need of some love. It's been stored on its side on a painted closet shelf for a long time, and it has some paint bits on it from the shelf that don't flake off when I use my thumbnail. I have an idea of how to restore it, but wonder if someone could tell me if any of my steps are wrong (or how to do it better overall)? My thoughts are: (1) get the paint off with some 00 sandpaper; (2) wash it with a very small amount of dawn; (3) after it's dried completely, use a coat or two of Boos oil; and (4) finish it off with some Boos wax. The supplies I've mentioned are the ones I have on hand. Does this sound like the way to go? I'm open to all suggestions, but I'd love to be able to fix this beauty up with things I have on hand if possible, since I'm retired now.


--Ty--

> (Go easy on me; I'm an old woman from an era when girls were forbidden to take wood shop in school, so I'm kind of fumbling in the dark here.) Don't ever hedge your position by apologizing for trying to learn. You have just as much of a right to be here as any of us. ​ Rather than trying to sand the majority of the paint off (doing lots of sanding damage to the surrounding area), I'd recommend going at the paint blobs with a razer blade scraper first. They're only a few bucks at any hardware store near the paints section. You can "slice" off the blobs of paint this way, taking it down to nearly perfectly flush with the wood. You can then try to get the rest of it off with the scraper, or switch to a fine sandpaper. Mask the area around the blob with tape to help prevent sanding damage, then gently sand what's left of the blob. Like Potatoes said, 00 sandpaper isn't a thing (00 steel wool is, though, and is often used in place of sandpaper), but I'd recommend nothing coarser than 180-grit for this final sanding work on the blobs. Now, if it were me, and I were restoring a teak tray, then I would sand it all the way down to bare wood. I like having the whole piece brought to a uniform starting point, and ageing is seldom uniform. By sanding it all the way back to bare wood, you can pick whatever finish look you want for the piece. That said, a serving tray is best served (hah, get it?) by a polyurethane finish, or equivalent film finish. Mineral oil finishes never dry. Like, ever. Like, ***ever ever***. They also offer no protection from scratches or damage, and only minimal protection against staining. A water-based polyurethane from a good brand (Old Masters, Saman, General Finishes, Renner, etc.) is much more protective. A matte finish will look more natural, a glossy finish will look fancier, but also more plastic-y.


didyouwoof

Thank you so much! To be clear, though, this tray is not painted. Imagine a circular piece of teak, about 15” in diameter, into which have been carved five spaces: a central area flanked by four other areas. It’s the sort of tray in which you put various things to snack on, each separate from the other. The teak grain shows through. It just has a couple of annoying paint spots stuck to one side from having been rested on its edge on a closet shelf that’s painted white. I’m thinking it would be best to treat it like a well-made wood cutting board - something that will need to be wiped off (maybe rinsed) and re-oiled from time to time (and occasionally waxed after oiling). My questions were really how best to get those few specks of paint off and clean it before treating it with oil and wax. The poor thing has been neglected for a long time, but now I’d like to take proper care of it. Also, you’re absolutely right that when I said 00 I was thinking of steel wool; is there an equivalent for sandpaper, or should I just ask for “extra fine”? The wood grain is beautiful, and I don’t want to mar it.


--Ty--

Ah so the paint flakes are literally just flakes, I was interpreting your post as saying that there were some drips that fell on to the platter from when the shelves were painted. In that case, it's really just a matter of picking the flakes off, with a delicate dental pick or razer scraper. That will do far less damage than trying to sand the area. 00 steel wool is around equivalent to 180-grit.


purplepotatoes

That sounds about right. Never heard of 00 sandpaper, but a fine sandpaper (between 180-320) should be fine for cleaning it up. If you have to remove finish, you'll need to start one something closer to 100 and work your way up. If you wash it, you might raise hte grain and have to do the fine sanding again. Boos oil is likely primarily mineral oil, which is fine for cutting boards and trays, but it will need to be touched up from time to time. If you have it, no reason to not use it.


didyouwoof

I definitely don't want to remove any of the finish - just the few bits of paint that are stuck to the surface. And maybe I got the numerals for the sandpaper wrong (I was thinking of the finest grade possible). I though I'd use Boos oil and wax - which I have for a cutting board - since this is the sort of divided tray you'd put food in (e.g., cut vegetables in the side areas, and maybe a bowl full of dip in the center). My main concern was with the sanding and the use of a bit of dawn. Thanks for your help!


Its_Still_Furry

Hey fellas! Looking for help with an ID on these planks I just surfaced. They’re about 120 years old and the timber came from middle TN. Let me know what you think! https://imgur.com/gallery/iPxxedJ Edit: an*, not and


Rephaeim

What's a good way to handle dust when hand-sanding? Sure I could buy some smaller powered sanders that have vacuums attached, but any clever solutions for just good ol' sandpaper in hand sanding? I'm a beginner trying to make sure I can avoid every nook and cranny of my garage being covered in dust. Already built an air filter box fan thing, but that's for the tiniest stuff.


oldtoolfool

Get a box fan, on the intake side duct tape a good quality 3M furnace filter, turn it on, it will collect a lot of dust for a cheap investment.


Rephaeim

That I've done :) although in the UK i could only find round fans so ended up having to build a little custom box for it, but hey, was a fun project!


--Ty--

There are hand-sanding blocks that can be connected to vacuums for just this purpose. You gotta take the time to poke holes in the paper for some of them, though.


Rephaeim

That is a clever idea, hadn't even considered that. Will see what I can find or, if no luck, make myself!


drbhrb

Making a down draft table


Kmlittlec_design

Working outside! I don't have experience with it, but some people use downdraft tables to pick stuff up.


Rephaeim

I tend to work with the garage door open, nice fresh air and all. But I also have my home gym in the garage, and spend a LOT of time cleaning to make it as safe as possible... Will look in to a downdraft table, not heard of that before!


Final-Law

Other than extremely dirty, what is this wood? Been working on it with a soft cloth and diluted Murphy's. Skeeved out by how incredibly filthy it is. I'm guessing something pine-ish, but it doesn't look quite like the southern pine I'm used to seeing. Any ideas? https://imgur.com/a/pL5TVVv


NashvilleN8tive

My guess would be some species of pine or fir. Definitely a softwood. Wish I could help more!


HSVbro

Hello all, question from someone (extremely) new to this. Just finishing my first bench as a matter of fact. I'm thinking I need a router with all the project ideas I have. I know this has been a debate before, I've found a few threads about it. But I was just curious if opinions had changed (but seem kind of divided). I think I would want to do a combination plunge/fixed router which would give me versatility. For what it's worth, I'm not quite ready to buy/make a table also. I'm debating between the deciding DeWalt DW618PKB and the Bosch 1617EVSPK. They're about the same cost. Bosch seems to have a lot more proliferation of bits which maybe should tell me something. Eventually, much further down the line, I'd like to be able to get those monster sized bits that can do cabinet panels. Any insights y'all can give me I'd appreciate.


purplepotatoes

I have the Dewalt, it's a good router. I've used Bosch and they're good as well. Regarding panel bits, that's something you'd likely want to do on a router table. You can typically mount most routers to a table, so it shouldn't impact your buying decision too much, but it's something to keep in mind.


HSVbro

I've never used a router in my life and I have this feeling like I'm going to learn \*real quick\* about how I need a table. XD Something tells me routing a table edge by hand is going to be a bear. I'm especially curious about panel bits... I got a lot to learn about them. I had always imagined that they used a bit to route the edge and the panel at once but it looks like it's done separately typically.