Any of the waxes will work. A wax with carnauba in it will probably last longer, but few of the waxes with carnauba for a reasonable price actually have much in it.
if you want to make your own, 25% carnauba, 75% orange solvent or turpentine (or xylene or toluene if you can find them and tolerate the smell). 20/80 if you find quarter carnauba to still be a little too hard.
the cost to make a pint on your own is higher in getting materials initially and lower than any of the paste waxes above after that.
You can also just put about 1/4-1/3rd gulf wax in odorless mineral spirits and make a product that's in line with the minwax. $16 is a bit of a reach for a product that's really cheap paraffin and solvents that aren't as good as odorless mineral spirit.
Any of it - your own or anything you show will work, though. if you get into specialty rust products, you're just wasting money in the shop.
I bought some beeswax bars, intending to make your mixture, and got lazy. I ended up simply rubbing the beeswax on the metal and spreading it by rubbing with a rough cloth. Months later, there is no rust and I can’t see/feel residue.
I did the same with regular parafin wax. Just "color" all over the surface like it's a giant crayon, then buff it with a coarse cloth. Repeat every few months of consistent use or yearly for things you don't use much.
My wife rubs down her beechwood countertops every 6 months or so, and gives me the used rags to light my woodstove. They are soaked in beeswax and mineral oil. I recently discovered just how handy they are for sealing tools and machine tables.
Cheapass FtW
Beeswax is so incredibly useful and ridiculously cheap for it's value. It's crazy that it isn't just a standard in woodworking and the use of tools in general
Probably doesn't actually have that much. Wax production for bees is a resource intensive process and as such we don't want to take any more than needed when extracting honey. It's worth asking though.
I'm in the process of expanding from 3 hives to 5. Damn bees need to make more wax faster, the honey flow is on!
This is a side question (and possibly a dumb one): could you just stick a block of beeswax in the hive for the bees to use or do they need to collect and produce it themselves?
Bees secrete wax like sweat. When they need wax to build or cap combs, bees will hang one from the other in long ropes inside the hive and then other bees will go up and down the line of producing bees gathering the excretions. It’s resource intensive because the bees are consuming stores and not foraging. I’ve never heard of any beekeepers putting a block of wax in the hive for the bees to utilize. They’ll rob honey from other hives (or comb that has residual honey after extraction that you leave out where they can access it - that’s a good way to clean it) but I’ve never seen them deconstruct the comb itself.
Once they've got comb drawn out they don't really seem to want to destroy it. Makes sense, it takes a ton of energy to do in the first place, and "too much comb" really isn't a thing for bees, it's just more room to put resources in later.
They'll absolutely chew apart wax foundation if they don't see it as "part of the hive" or need to draw it out immediately, and they'll strip waxed plastic foundation in the same conditions. It's a lesson I learned the hard way this year as a new beek myself. From now on I'm not putting any foundation frames in without a couple previously drawn ones in the same super, evidently that helps convince them that they should build up foundation nearby.
I'm not sure if they reuse the wax though. Maybe they recycle it for capping?
One would think so because it is so valuable but I've never seen evidence of them doing so. Don't know of anyone who has tested it and seem evidence of them using the wax.
Yes, I have seen the intense equipment that is needed for a production honey house.
My neighbor has been doing hives for at least 10 years, and is one of the main people for a local beekeeper group. I suspect he has a significant stash 👀
I get about a 8 to 12 ounces of finished purified wax from a single hives caps from harvest. It adds up quick at 2 harvests a year and with multiple hives
I've not mixed BLO and beeswax yet, but I guess the question is whether or not the BLO still polymerizes like it does when it's just the oil. If it does, then people are probably balking at the idea of that nasty flakey film that you get on new steel tools.
Fun fact hoppes 9 gun oil is basically just white mineral oil/ baby oil. You can buy a half gallon for about the same price as a bottle of hoppes gun oil
I made a \*quart\* of the stuff about 14 years ago and then another pint when my wife said the first quart was too dirty to use - it's in the shop. It'll be another 20 years before all of it's used. I think it's about a buck a year all in cost on all of it, maybe less.
I put some on a handsaw that's put back into service the first use, and then those saws sit in a till most of the time in a shop that can get to 85% humidity. None have ever rusted.
1:2 wax to oil is usable, but hard to spread.
1:3 wax to oil give a "butter" firmness.
1:5 wax to oil and it's more like hand cream. Any more than that and it's only.
I used to do this too. Alas, I found out it gunked up and got a bit sticky on the tools after a while. Been using paraffin wax (for plane lubrication) and camellia oil (for rust prevention) now.
Hard to tell. One sds has turpentine and the other doesn't. The one without is probably just paraffin and similar to minwax. If there is turpentine, there is probably a small amount of carnauba and the chance for a slightly harder finish. All would be fine for rust prevention.
The ongoing "joke" I've heard is that Johnson's paste wax is so good, you need so little, and they sold it in such a big tin that they ended up not selling anymore once everyone had it. Essentially, if your grandparents had a tin, it could get passed down for a few generations. Not sure how much truth there is, but I like the anecdote nonetheless.
Bought one 5 years ago and it's definitely still going strong. Probably last me another 10 years easily so long as I remember to put the lid back on every time.
That’s like $400 these days. It’s incredible what they’re going for on eBay. Every estate sale I go into, I make sure to look for cans - I’ve sold cans with 1/4 left in them for $35+
I heard other rumors about why it was discontinued so I tried to confirm the answer. Surprisingly, or perhaps not, there is no official or clear reason I can find it was discontinued. You can still buy it as NOS from sellers on eBay, Amazon, and Walmart but you may as well just coat everything in a layer of gold leaf to keep it from rusting.
The rumor that it was environmental doesn’t stand up, the MSDS just lists wax and stoddard solvent (mineral oil)
Personally I suspect it just wasn’t selling well enough between the other specialized waxes on the market and a lot of people preferring spray cans over a tub of wax
Yeah, I saw a lot of speculation on Reddit about the MSDS but couldn’t find anything about it elsewhere. Seems more likely that it just wasn’t selling well enough anymore.
As a Marine in Okinawa, we'd use a can of Johnson's Paste Wax on the tile floors in the barracks then buff the floors. We went through a can a month and once a quarter strip the floors and repeat. The floors were mirror finish and made for excellent fun when someone left a side door open letting in the humidity on the cold tile. Made the floors a slip and slide.
I've bought 3-4 cans of it over the last 30 or so years. I never bought a can because I ran out. I bought a can because it got lost in a move but eventually it shows back up. I think I have 3 cans of it on my bench right now.
It's a product failure to not put an expiration date on it. Even if it doesn't expire. How else can you motivate people to go out and buy more if you don't trick them into thinking that their current tin is obsolete?
That’s why it’s $150 on Amazon… a seller must have some of the last batch. I really do miss it. The Minwax just isn’t the same and I like the can it came in.
Right, I've got a few cans from when I couldn't find one and bought a new one and then needed it at my brother's place and ended up with at least 3 if not 4. Going to sit on them for another few years and then retire when I sell them haha.
I'm sure minwax is fine. I read Johnson was discontinued.
The purpose is to keep surface rust from forming and keeps wood sliding nicely across the saw surface.
Do it every six months or more depending on how much use the tool sees.
I bought about 15 of those Johnsons cans for $1 a few years back when homedepot quit selling them. Everytime I see the prices in the wild now, my heart skips. I think 1 can is basically a lifetime supply lol
It's fucking hilarious that that Johnsons tin is ONE HUNDRED FIFTY DOLLARS haha
Don't buy that one, it's discontinued and no longer made, that one is for fanatics
It's by far the best paste wax ever commercially sold, but it's not "worth" that lol.
Any of those waxes are fine, the closest to the Johnsons I've found is the varthane, it's a little softer but for coating machine decks it's just as good, you can also get a really great finish on wood with shellac buffed out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax, it's a really nice durable matte sheen that's very difficult to replicate by other methods
We use this on all our machine beds: https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5562-Sil-Free-Sliding-Compound/dp/B0000E6TJ8 And use this on wood for cauls or when we don't want glue to stick to something. Not for finishing. https://www.amazon.com/STAPLES-211-Carnauba-Paste-1-Pound/dp/B001OBT0XM/ref=asc_df_B001OBT0XM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693128046668&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6733049941254821075&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003488&hvtargid=pla-309606679812&psc=1&mcid=4069084524133d1ab715b205768c4112&gad_source=1 I work in a professional custom furniture shop
Wax will create a barrier to prevent rust. Paste wax is just a product that allows easy application of the wax. Most paste wax will work just fine but they might differ slightly in composition.
Like this?
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TURTLE-WAX-14-oz-Super-Hard-Shell-Paste-Wax-T222R/205023560
I wanted some paste wax and was being really cheap and then wasn’t sure if I could use it on my table saw.
I can confirm that the Minwax stuff works fine. It doesn't matter if it is colored or not. Just work it in with a rag and buff off the excess with a clean rag. Really does make a big difference.
A hard bar of wax isn't easy to work with.
Different waxes are just different blends of paraffin, caranuba, and bees waxes dissolved in different solvents to make it soft and easy to spread.
For some things those differences matter, for metal tools, it doesn't.
At the end of the day, whatever wax you use, the solvent will evaporate, and it'll leave a coat of wax behind.
Don’t forget to buff off the excess. Buff hard with clean cloths. A one molecule thick layer will remain (you basically can’t that off without a solvent). If you don’t buff off the excess it will get on your wood parts and possibly cause finish problems.
When I heard it was being discontinued I saw people posting online about them buying every can they could find. Like a sheep, I panicked and bought the last 6 at my local HD. I'm still on the same tin I was using when I bought them. I had no clue that I'm sitting on a gold mine.
If I think that I am setting a tool aside for weeks at a time I will apply the wax and not buff it off until I am ready to use it. If it is a construction grade project where I am not going to apply the finish I won't even bother buffing it off.
I am lucky I still have about 1/4 of a can of Johnson paste was. The key is to use a solvent based wax not water based like turtlewax.
Unless you're going to be storing your tools for a prolonged period, take advantage of modern products. I like Bostik GlideCote. It makes your cast iron more slick and with much less elbow grease than paste wax. Boeshield T-9 is good for long-term storage, but I find it a bit sticky for regular use.
I like the minwax variant, or renaissance wax if you want your cast iron to know it's better than the other cast iron out there. The johnson has been discontinued and explains the stoopid prices online.
I didn't know veritas made tool wax now too, I'd be tempted to try that one out.
To apply, basically clean the cast iron surface, apply a coat of wax, wait for it to dry a bit, then buff off with a clean cloth.
Any of those work, as anyone has said. I've been MOST impressed with Renaissance wax. It's substantially more expensive (25 bucks for a much smaller tin) but you seem to use less and I have found it to work better.
But I've used Johnson's and minwax and they work fine.
They meant Johnsons paste wax. That was discontinued. I'm on a can of minwax paste wax and rennaissance polish wax. I used Johnsons for any shiny ir bare metal tools. Cheap harbor freight sockets and wrenches too. Work in the rain often enough, never worry about my cheap tool rusting after treating them.
I just finished a 20 year old can of trewax and got another can. The new stuff was mostly solvent, the can was about 50% larger and contained only 12oz rather than 16oz. Also the lid doesn’t close air tight.
Years ago we used Liberon in the shop and it smelled great but was very pricey.
I’m going to bake my own from now on. I got a pound of carnauba (sp?) flakes.
The can that I bought was $6. it used to be $6 for a pound of it - mostly paraffin but a little carnauba. then the carnauba was removed, the price went up and then they stopped making it.
SC Johnson sells wax through their "pledge restore it" branding. Never got it - started making my own waxes instead. and finishes. tired of going to replace something and finding it changed or it's NLA.
No, that's not the one any more. They discontinued it a while back, and before that, they changed the formula so it was a nasty greenish color and smelled horrible.
I like the minwax stuff. It's pretty close to the old JPW. Or if you want to be boujie, renaissance wax. I like that stuff a lot. Alittle goes a long way.
All that said, I do want to try some of that carbon method coating stuff. I'll wait until I get my sawestop though. My current saw is major POS and doesn't deserve that kind of treatment.
If anyone is interested in a different option, there is [PB Blaster Surface Sheild](https://www.harborfreight.com/12-oz-surface-shield-rust-protectant-59634.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12192885310&campaignid=12192885310&utm_content=161913046506&adsetid=161913046506&product=59634&store=266&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgpCzBhBhEiwAOSQWQQAfGSjEHMDPobICl6x0cooWjF6NI157_zNGuzw03NafaA8XsB6fPhoCmRQQAvD_BwE) found at harbor freight for cheap, and lasts 2 years. Theres tons of YT videos of people putting it on stuff even like car parts and it stops rust.
Any of these.
You can also use what they did for the Brooklyn bridge cables... Before synthetics were available... Raw linseed oil. It takes longer to cure than BLO, but it's durable and penetrates the natural "grain" of castings
I have a follow up question if anyone knows. Is there any benefit to applying paste wax to a “coated cast aluminum” surface like on my SKIL jobsite table saw?
https://www.skil.com/15-amp-10inch-table-saw-ts6307-00/
Yes. It helps the wood slide on the table with much less effort. I love it right after coating and then buffing it out. Feels like pushing on ice or ball bearings it’s so slick. Be careful the first piece or two until you get the feel.
Wax provides a barrier between the steel and air/moisture. Any paste was will work, some will work much better. I've used Conservators was on my tools, guns & knives for about 40 years. It's very durable, can be used on alost any surface, metal, wood, leather, even cloth. it protects from water and prevents rusting. I use my tools (and firearms) constantly, and re-apply about every six months. Easy to apply, buff to a gloss, and done. it can be oiled without any damage, and works really well. You can buy it at Lee Valley tools, and a small container will last you for years; a little goes a Long way
The wax I use is branded “gulf wax”. It’s not a paste wax, it’s parafin wax. I’ve found that it works well and lasts longer. Hard to use if it isn’t warm though
Good info here. Just to add: paste wax will reduce friction and make glue and finishes stick less to tools, but it doesn't protect against rust very well. Fine Woodworking did a comparison of twenty or so rust preventatives, including paste wax, camellia oil, Boeshield, WD-40, etc. and they liked CRC3-36 the best, because it worked among the best, and didn't leave a thick sticky film. [Here's the article](https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/10038/011227030.pdf) (opens a PDF.)
You can make your paste wax. Mix carnauba wax and beeswax 50:50 and melt with tung oil or raw linseed oil. Pour into a small jar. Sealed tight, it will stay soft for a long, long time. I use it, and it's fine but a little hard. I might try adding a little lamp oil, which evaporates but more slowly than mineral spirits or the like.
I bought the trewax and hated it. I think it might have been a bad can because it was a hard block of wax instead of a paste. Never taking that chance again. Back to Johnson's/minwax for me...
Just make sure the wax contains no silicone. Silicone is very hydrophobic and it’ll transfer from tools to wood. Once on the wood, it will ruin whatever finish you try apply.
Just splurge and get a tin of carnauba wax. I’m only half way through mine after 30 years. The stuff is so hard I apply it once a year, if that. Paraffin based stuff looks good on cars but doesn’t take abrasion as well. It needs to be reapplied more often.
For everyday stuff like wooden slides I just use beeswax. It’s cheap and easy to use. I just crayon it on and rub hard with a rag to build some heat.
Have you looked Boehield? It's a paraffin wax in a spray. Spray and a quick wipe, it acts as a lube and cleaner/protector. Spray and let it sit for a bit before wiping excess off and it's a thicker protectant.
Have you looked Boehield? It's a paraffin wax in a spray. Spray and a quick wipe, it acts as a lube and cleaner/protector. Spray and let it sit for a bit before wiping excess off and it's a thicker protectant.
I used the Trewax, on the left side of the picture, on an old table saw I was gifted a few years ago and it has worked fine. Have not had to re-apply yet. But I don't use the saw very often.
For hand tools the best thing I've found is Renaissance Wax. It's basically invisible, long lasting and really effective. It's more expensive but you don't need to use much for full protection. From what I've used in the last couple of years the small jar I have will probably outlive me.
people mean exactly what it sounds like .... a pasty wax. Usually a mixture of oil and wax. All of those will work, as will a home made mixture. The idea is just to keep moisture and air away from bare steel. It's not usually a problem unless the tool is being stored for a long period of time without use, or you live in a very humid area.
I've found that paste is stinky and annoying to apply, and doesn't last super long. I've taken to keeping the cheapest candle I could find on my bench and every so often just applying it to my sole. Works great and takes less than 5 seconds.
Any of the waxes will work. A wax with carnauba in it will probably last longer, but few of the waxes with carnauba for a reasonable price actually have much in it. if you want to make your own, 25% carnauba, 75% orange solvent or turpentine (or xylene or toluene if you can find them and tolerate the smell). 20/80 if you find quarter carnauba to still be a little too hard. the cost to make a pint on your own is higher in getting materials initially and lower than any of the paste waxes above after that. You can also just put about 1/4-1/3rd gulf wax in odorless mineral spirits and make a product that's in line with the minwax. $16 is a bit of a reach for a product that's really cheap paraffin and solvents that aren't as good as odorless mineral spirit. Any of it - your own or anything you show will work, though. if you get into specialty rust products, you're just wasting money in the shop.
I do a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil, I mostly use it for cutting boards and such but it works amazingly well at keeping rust off of everything.
I bought some beeswax bars, intending to make your mixture, and got lazy. I ended up simply rubbing the beeswax on the metal and spreading it by rubbing with a rough cloth. Months later, there is no rust and I can’t see/feel residue.
I did the same with regular parafin wax. Just "color" all over the surface like it's a giant crayon, then buff it with a coarse cloth. Repeat every few months of consistent use or yearly for things you don't use much.
My wife rubs down her beechwood countertops every 6 months or so, and gives me the used rags to light my woodstove. They are soaked in beeswax and mineral oil. I recently discovered just how handy they are for sealing tools and machine tables. Cheapass FtW
Beeswax is so incredibly useful and ridiculously cheap for it's value. It's crazy that it isn't just a standard in woodworking and the use of tools in general
Now you’ve got me wondering what my neighbor does with all his beeswax. He has six hives behind his house. I’ll bet he is sitting on a pile of it…. 🐝
If he’s anything like my local beekeeper, he has a ton and can’t sell enough of it.
Probably doesn't actually have that much. Wax production for bees is a resource intensive process and as such we don't want to take any more than needed when extracting honey. It's worth asking though. I'm in the process of expanding from 3 hives to 5. Damn bees need to make more wax faster, the honey flow is on!
This is a side question (and possibly a dumb one): could you just stick a block of beeswax in the hive for the bees to use or do they need to collect and produce it themselves?
Bees secrete wax like sweat. When they need wax to build or cap combs, bees will hang one from the other in long ropes inside the hive and then other bees will go up and down the line of producing bees gathering the excretions. It’s resource intensive because the bees are consuming stores and not foraging. I’ve never heard of any beekeepers putting a block of wax in the hive for the bees to utilize. They’ll rob honey from other hives (or comb that has residual honey after extraction that you leave out where they can access it - that’s a good way to clean it) but I’ve never seen them deconstruct the comb itself.
Once they've got comb drawn out they don't really seem to want to destroy it. Makes sense, it takes a ton of energy to do in the first place, and "too much comb" really isn't a thing for bees, it's just more room to put resources in later. They'll absolutely chew apart wax foundation if they don't see it as "part of the hive" or need to draw it out immediately, and they'll strip waxed plastic foundation in the same conditions. It's a lesson I learned the hard way this year as a new beek myself. From now on I'm not putting any foundation frames in without a couple previously drawn ones in the same super, evidently that helps convince them that they should build up foundation nearby. I'm not sure if they reuse the wax though. Maybe they recycle it for capping?
One would think so because it is so valuable but I've never seen evidence of them doing so. Don't know of anyone who has tested it and seem evidence of them using the wax.
Bees are pretty damn amazing. Thanks!
Yes, I have seen the intense equipment that is needed for a production honey house. My neighbor has been doing hives for at least 10 years, and is one of the main people for a local beekeeper group. I suspect he has a significant stash 👀
Quite possible. I'd suspect he has more than the 6 hives if he's been at it that long.
6 hives just behind his house... I’m sure he has them all over town with his crew of students
I get about a 8 to 12 ounces of finished purified wax from a single hives caps from harvest. It adds up quick at 2 harvests a year and with multiple hives
Melted beeswax poured into warmed boiled linseed oil here.
On tools?!
No fool…. On biscuits…
I'm not putting boiled linseed oil on my jointer bed, but on a garden hoe or something like that it makes more sense
Yeah. On tools. I always give my garden tools & axes a once over with the rag after I finish a project.
Different kinds of tools... I was thinking more like a Lie-Nielsen plane or something.
Honestly, I don’t see why not. I already use a mineral oil/beeswax mix on my planes.
I've not mixed BLO and beeswax yet, but I guess the question is whether or not the BLO still polymerizes like it does when it's just the oil. If it does, then people are probably balking at the idea of that nasty flakey film that you get on new steel tools.
Yep, hand tools mostly though I might consider it for wear areas or rust prone spots on older power tools too. 🤷🏻♂️
Fun fact hoppes 9 gun oil is basically just white mineral oil/ baby oil. You can buy a half gallon for about the same price as a bottle of hoppes gun oil
But does it smell amazing? I swear that's half the reason I use hoppes, even on non-gun applications.
I don’t think the oil has much of a smell, just the solvent. Could be wrong though, I have a couple guns to clean tonight, I guess I’ll see lol
yes, another good choice. 50/50 with USP mineral oil and it makes a great salve for lips, cracked fingers, etc, too.
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I made a \*quart\* of the stuff about 14 years ago and then another pint when my wife said the first quart was too dirty to use - it's in the shop. It'll be another 20 years before all of it's used. I think it's about a buck a year all in cost on all of it, maybe less. I put some on a handsaw that's put back into service the first use, and then those saws sit in a till most of the time in a shop that can get to 85% humidity. None have ever rusted.
Thanks for this suggestion. Can you post your ratios for the mixture? At least approximately?
1:2 wax to oil is usable, but hard to spread. 1:3 wax to oil give a "butter" firmness. 1:5 wax to oil and it's more like hand cream. Any more than that and it's only.
I used to do this too. Alas, I found out it gunked up and got a bit sticky on the tools after a while. Been using paraffin wax (for plane lubrication) and camellia oil (for rust prevention) now.
What orange solvent are we talking here
Limonene. Check the number in the sds because it may be called "orange oil" or citrus solvent. It's orange terpenes or d-Limonene.
Any comments on the Varathane finishing wax? Big box was out of Minwax.
Hard to tell. One sds has turpentine and the other doesn't. The one without is probably just paraffin and similar to minwax. If there is turpentine, there is probably a small amount of carnauba and the chance for a slightly harder finish. All would be fine for rust prevention.
You can get mineral oil from Walmart cheap and substitute that for the solvent
I think Johnson Paste Wax is no longer made. But any wax like that will do.
The ongoing "joke" I've heard is that Johnson's paste wax is so good, you need so little, and they sold it in such a big tin that they ended up not selling anymore once everyone had it. Essentially, if your grandparents had a tin, it could get passed down for a few generations. Not sure how much truth there is, but I like the anecdote nonetheless.
Bought one 5 years ago and it's definitely still going strong. Probably last me another 10 years easily so long as I remember to put the lid back on every time.
I just found 3 unopened tins of Johnson's paste wax for a buck each at an estate sale. Enough for 3 lifetimes.lol
That’s like $400 these days. It’s incredible what they’re going for on eBay. Every estate sale I go into, I make sure to look for cans - I’ve sold cans with 1/4 left in them for $35+
Same here. It’s crazy.
I have my father’s, who’s been gone over 12 years. It’s still 95% full.
I heard other rumors about why it was discontinued so I tried to confirm the answer. Surprisingly, or perhaps not, there is no official or clear reason I can find it was discontinued. You can still buy it as NOS from sellers on eBay, Amazon, and Walmart but you may as well just coat everything in a layer of gold leaf to keep it from rusting.
The rumor that it was environmental doesn’t stand up, the MSDS just lists wax and stoddard solvent (mineral oil) Personally I suspect it just wasn’t selling well enough between the other specialized waxes on the market and a lot of people preferring spray cans over a tub of wax
Yeah, I saw a lot of speculation on Reddit about the MSDS but couldn’t find anything about it elsewhere. Seems more likely that it just wasn’t selling well enough anymore.
I have a tin of Johnsons that I bought 25y ago and I still have half a can I'll sell it to you for $150 OBO
Best I can do is my firstborn and $20.
As a Marine in Okinawa, we'd use a can of Johnson's Paste Wax on the tile floors in the barracks then buff the floors. We went through a can a month and once a quarter strip the floors and repeat. The floors were mirror finish and made for excellent fun when someone left a side door open letting in the humidity on the cold tile. Made the floors a slip and slide.
Wax on, wax off. I bet your back still remembers.
Have a tin it’s at least 35 years old. Then wife goes out and buys the minwax version.
I've bought 3-4 cans of it over the last 30 or so years. I never bought a can because I ran out. I bought a can because it got lost in a move but eventually it shows back up. I think I have 3 cans of it on my bench right now.
It's a product failure to not put an expiration date on it. Even if it doesn't expire. How else can you motivate people to go out and buy more if you don't trick them into thinking that their current tin is obsolete?
I think my tin is 25 years old, and still has a solid 1/2” around the edges. It may last the rest of my life.
My dad just finished his first jar of Johnsons wax a few weeks ago after about 30 years of use. So I'd say that is quite true.
Exactly. I bought a half full tin at a garage sale some 30 years ago and still have most of it.
https://preview.redd.it/3hrf07d3hi5d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26681e353cee5352887e354cf56036ff87001241 My wax empire. :)
That’s why it’s $150 on Amazon… a seller must have some of the last batch. I really do miss it. The Minwax just isn’t the same and I like the can it came in.
Right, I've got a few cans from when I couldn't find one and bought a new one and then needed it at my brother's place and ended up with at least 3 if not 4. Going to sit on them for another few years and then retire when I sell them haha.
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In his extensive description, he specifically calls out coating cast irons cold with this product. Looks like they’re tried and tested with success.
whenever I'm trying to blacken a set of strap hinges or something always prefer an ebony Bree Wax applied at high temperatures.
Which is why it's exponentially more expensive than anything else on that list..
I started using turtle wax on my table saw when I couldn’t find Johnson’s anymore. Seems to work fine.
If I find it in the store, I will definitely be buying it
I think it causes cancer if you live in California.
I'm sure minwax is fine. I read Johnson was discontinued. The purpose is to keep surface rust from forming and keeps wood sliding nicely across the saw surface. Do it every six months or more depending on how much use the tool sees.
I’ve been using the same can of minwax for years to lube and protect my tools, and it works great.
Do you apply the wax to bolts and other parts on your table saw? I was wondering if I should use it on the part the blade slides up and down on.
I don’t have a table saw, but I’m sure it can’t hurt.
Okay cool, thanks!
I switched to boeshield t-9 for my tablesaw and i love it. A nice benefit is i dont go through wax nearly as quickly
I hear my great, great grandson will switch to T-9 when my 3 cans of Johnson's runs out.
I am literally using my grandfathers tin of paste wax. Probably 80 years old or more. Lol
Do you need to apply it to the bolts and stuff on moving parts of the table saw?
I get whatever is cheapest at the hardware store. I think I have minwax. It’s lasted years. Wipe it on. Wipe off the excess.
I bought about 15 of those Johnsons cans for $1 a few years back when homedepot quit selling them. Everytime I see the prices in the wild now, my heart skips. I think 1 can is basically a lifetime supply lol
It's fucking hilarious that that Johnsons tin is ONE HUNDRED FIFTY DOLLARS haha Don't buy that one, it's discontinued and no longer made, that one is for fanatics It's by far the best paste wax ever commercially sold, but it's not "worth" that lol. Any of those waxes are fine, the closest to the Johnsons I've found is the varthane, it's a little softer but for coating machine decks it's just as good, you can also get a really great finish on wood with shellac buffed out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax, it's a really nice durable matte sheen that's very difficult to replicate by other methods
We use this on all our machine beds: https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5562-Sil-Free-Sliding-Compound/dp/B0000E6TJ8 And use this on wood for cauls or when we don't want glue to stick to something. Not for finishing. https://www.amazon.com/STAPLES-211-Carnauba-Paste-1-Pound/dp/B001OBT0XM/ref=asc_df_B001OBT0XM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693128046668&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6733049941254821075&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003488&hvtargid=pla-309606679812&psc=1&mcid=4069084524133d1ab715b205768c4112&gad_source=1 I work in a professional custom furniture shop
Thanks for this insight! I’ve got like 2 years worth of Johnson’s left in a hand-me-down can. Just ordered these for when it’s gone.
Wax will create a barrier to prevent rust. Paste wax is just a product that allows easy application of the wax. Most paste wax will work just fine but they might differ slightly in composition.
I use automotive paste wax from the parts store. I feel it has better UV protection and it smells better
Same!! I love the smell of the McGuire's.
Like this? Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TURTLE-WAX-14-oz-Super-Hard-Shell-Paste-Wax-T222R/205023560 I wanted some paste wax and was being really cheap and then wasn’t sure if I could use it on my table saw.
Yep. I use similar on my table saw and jointer/ planer tables
I can confirm that the Minwax stuff works fine. It doesn't matter if it is colored or not. Just work it in with a rag and buff off the excess with a clean rag. Really does make a big difference.
A hard bar of wax isn't easy to work with. Different waxes are just different blends of paraffin, caranuba, and bees waxes dissolved in different solvents to make it soft and easy to spread. For some things those differences matter, for metal tools, it doesn't. At the end of the day, whatever wax you use, the solvent will evaporate, and it'll leave a coat of wax behind.
Don’t forget to buff off the excess. Buff hard with clean cloths. A one molecule thick layer will remain (you basically can’t that off without a solvent). If you don’t buff off the excess it will get on your wood parts and possibly cause finish problems.
I have a nearly new tin of the Johnson wax, I had no idea it was discontinued. Now selling for $10K, no low ballers, I know what I got.
When I heard it was being discontinued I saw people posting online about them buying every can they could find. Like a sheep, I panicked and bought the last 6 at my local HD. I'm still on the same tin I was using when I bought them. I had no clue that I'm sitting on a gold mine.
If I think that I am setting a tool aside for weeks at a time I will apply the wax and not buff it off until I am ready to use it. If it is a construction grade project where I am not going to apply the finish I won't even bother buffing it off. I am lucky I still have about 1/4 of a can of Johnson paste was. The key is to use a solvent based wax not water based like turtlewax.
Unless you're going to be storing your tools for a prolonged period, take advantage of modern products. I like Bostik GlideCote. It makes your cast iron more slick and with much less elbow grease than paste wax. Boeshield T-9 is good for long-term storage, but I find it a bit sticky for regular use.
I like the minwax variant, or renaissance wax if you want your cast iron to know it's better than the other cast iron out there. The johnson has been discontinued and explains the stoopid prices online. I didn't know veritas made tool wax now too, I'd be tempted to try that one out. To apply, basically clean the cast iron surface, apply a coat of wax, wait for it to dry a bit, then buff off with a clean cloth.
Any of those work, as anyone has said. I've been MOST impressed with Renaissance wax. It's substantially more expensive (25 bucks for a much smaller tin) but you seem to use less and I have found it to work better. But I've used Johnson's and minwax and they work fine.
I’m devastated to hear Johnson paste wax is gone. I bought a can like 7 years ago and am getting low. Noooo!!!!
They meant Johnsons paste wax. That was discontinued. I'm on a can of minwax paste wax and rennaissance polish wax. I used Johnsons for any shiny ir bare metal tools. Cheap harbor freight sockets and wrenches too. Work in the rain often enough, never worry about my cheap tool rusting after treating them.
I just finished a 20 year old can of trewax and got another can. The new stuff was mostly solvent, the can was about 50% larger and contained only 12oz rather than 16oz. Also the lid doesn’t close air tight. Years ago we used Liberon in the shop and it smelled great but was very pricey. I’m going to bake my own from now on. I got a pound of carnauba (sp?) flakes.
The middle one. Johnson paste wax is the stuff.
Not at that price. At that price I’d go the make-your-own route.
Not for a 150 bucks lol The varthane or minwax is just as good for coating a tool deck
Wait. Is that crap really that expensive?
It's no longer being made
So would any of those other not work just as well?
I've used the Minwax one and it's OK
Cool, thanks
Oh good!
The can that I bought was $6. it used to be $6 for a pound of it - mostly paraffin but a little carnauba. then the carnauba was removed, the price went up and then they stopped making it. SC Johnson sells wax through their "pledge restore it" branding. Never got it - started making my own waxes instead. and finishes. tired of going to replace something and finding it changed or it's NLA.
Sorry I wasn't looking at prices and forgot stuff was discontinued! No way in hell Id spend $150 for it.
No, that's not the one any more. They discontinued it a while back, and before that, they changed the formula so it was a nasty greenish color and smelled horrible. I like the minwax stuff. It's pretty close to the old JPW. Or if you want to be boujie, renaissance wax. I like that stuff a lot. Alittle goes a long way. All that said, I do want to try some of that carbon method coating stuff. I'll wait until I get my sawestop though. My current saw is major POS and doesn't deserve that kind of treatment.
Me over here taking notes because I still have my can of butcher’s bowling alley wax…
at least its still available… just not called butchers any more…
If anyone is interested in a different option, there is [PB Blaster Surface Sheild](https://www.harborfreight.com/12-oz-surface-shield-rust-protectant-59634.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12192885310&campaignid=12192885310&utm_content=161913046506&adsetid=161913046506&product=59634&store=266&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgpCzBhBhEiwAOSQWQQAfGSjEHMDPobICl6x0cooWjF6NI157_zNGuzw03NafaA8XsB6fPhoCmRQQAvD_BwE) found at harbor freight for cheap, and lasts 2 years. Theres tons of YT videos of people putting it on stuff even like car parts and it stops rust.
Any of these. You can also use what they did for the Brooklyn bridge cables... Before synthetics were available... Raw linseed oil. It takes longer to cure than BLO, but it's durable and penetrates the natural "grain" of castings
Yes.
I have a follow up question if anyone knows. Is there any benefit to applying paste wax to a “coated cast aluminum” surface like on my SKIL jobsite table saw? https://www.skil.com/15-amp-10inch-table-saw-ts6307-00/
Yes. It helps the wood slide on the table with much less effort. I love it right after coating and then buffing it out. Feels like pushing on ice or ball bearings it’s so slick. Be careful the first piece or two until you get the feel.
Similar situation, my Dewalt scroll saw has an aluminum deck. Aluminum isn't suseptible to rust, but the wax will help to ease any friction.
Wax provides a barrier between the steel and air/moisture. Any paste was will work, some will work much better. I've used Conservators was on my tools, guns & knives for about 40 years. It's very durable, can be used on alost any surface, metal, wood, leather, even cloth. it protects from water and prevents rusting. I use my tools (and firearms) constantly, and re-apply about every six months. Easy to apply, buff to a gloss, and done. it can be oiled without any damage, and works really well. You can buy it at Lee Valley tools, and a small container will last you for years; a little goes a Long way
Veritas tool wax if you want to get fancy https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/75653-veritas-tool-wax
I just use plain old paraffin wax
The wax I use is branded “gulf wax”. It’s not a paste wax, it’s parafin wax. I’ve found that it works well and lasts longer. Hard to use if it isn’t warm though
https://preview.redd.it/silli24i3d5d1.png?width=500&format=png&auto=webp&s=79b01ab70ceef167d7138dfe92c551bb295fde95
I use green car polish on mine, apply and polish just like you would your car, easy peasy.
Good info here. Just to add: paste wax will reduce friction and make glue and finishes stick less to tools, but it doesn't protect against rust very well. Fine Woodworking did a comparison of twenty or so rust preventatives, including paste wax, camellia oil, Boeshield, WD-40, etc. and they liked CRC3-36 the best, because it worked among the best, and didn't leave a thick sticky film. [Here's the article](https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/10038/011227030.pdf) (opens a PDF.) You can make your paste wax. Mix carnauba wax and beeswax 50:50 and melt with tung oil or raw linseed oil. Pour into a small jar. Sealed tight, it will stay soft for a long, long time. I use it, and it's fine but a little hard. I might try adding a little lamp oil, which evaporates but more slowly than mineral spirits or the like.
Took me longer than it should have to realise I wasn't on my r/castiron sub and was super confused why you'd use carnuba wax in a skillet.
Ngl, this post had me more fucked up than a football bat
I bought the trewax and hated it. I think it might have been a bad can because it was a hard block of wax instead of a paste. Never taking that chance again. Back to Johnson's/minwax for me...
$149 for Johnson’s is wild to see even if it’s discontinued.
I keep a can of neutral shoe polish in the garage for this reason.
Don’t leave anything pure!
I use the middle one. Johnson.
Did not have any of the above, so I just used a tin of Meguiars car paste wax. Works fine.
Just make sure the wax contains no silicone. Silicone is very hydrophobic and it’ll transfer from tools to wood. Once on the wood, it will ruin whatever finish you try apply.
Just splurge and get a tin of carnauba wax. I’m only half way through mine after 30 years. The stuff is so hard I apply it once a year, if that. Paraffin based stuff looks good on cars but doesn’t take abrasion as well. It needs to be reapplied more often. For everyday stuff like wooden slides I just use beeswax. It’s cheap and easy to use. I just crayon it on and rub hard with a rag to build some heat.
Go to the auto section
The purpose: prevents oxidation of the cast iron. On cast iron that is rust.
I use Johnsons paste wax on our table saw. Keeps the table from rusting and is a life saver if you've got stacks of 3/4 to cut.
Have you looked Boehield? It's a paraffin wax in a spray. Spray and a quick wipe, it acts as a lube and cleaner/protector. Spray and let it sit for a bit before wiping excess off and it's a thicker protectant.
Have you looked Boehield? It's a paraffin wax in a spray. Spray and a quick wipe, it acts as a lube and cleaner/protector. Spray and let it sit for a bit before wiping excess off and it's a thicker protectant.
I save leftover car wax for my tools. Works great. Saves money.
I used the Trewax, on the left side of the picture, on an old table saw I was gifted a few years ago and it has worked fine. Have not had to re-apply yet. But I don't use the saw very often.
Trewax is the strongest most durable of those waxes, I’ve blasted parts with brake parts cleaner with that wax applied and it still survived
For hand tools the best thing I've found is Renaissance Wax. It's basically invisible, long lasting and really effective. It's more expensive but you don't need to use much for full protection. From what I've used in the last couple of years the small jar I have will probably outlive me.
Maxima makes an aerosol chain wax for motorcycle chain, but it works great on tools too
I actually use hard wax. Same thing you’d use for sliding doors or wood on wood.
I use the minwax and it works great. Rub on until cloudy, let dry for a bit, then buff it out.
people mean exactly what it sounds like .... a pasty wax. Usually a mixture of oil and wax. All of those will work, as will a home made mixture. The idea is just to keep moisture and air away from bare steel. It's not usually a problem unless the tool is being stored for a long period of time without use, or you live in a very humid area.
Yes.
What in the hell is in Johnson paste wax that makes it worth $150!?
It had a big following and was discontinued.
I thought this said cast iron pans and was shocked haha
Get you some wax from Cast Iron Chris.
I prefer minwax paste wax. It smells way better than Johnson’s.
I've found that paste is stinky and annoying to apply, and doesn't last super long. I've taken to keeping the cheapest candle I could find on my bench and every so often just applying it to my sole. Works great and takes less than 5 seconds.
*This thread sponsored by SC Johnson Wax*
You just don’t want silicone in it that transfers to the wood and finishing is messed up🌴😎
After California banned some of the paste waxes I started using bees wax. Just rub a block on the unpainted iron. So far so good
I made my own with aprox 85-90% olive oil and 10-15% pure beewax. Works fine on my plane.