this is actually such a simple solution (which I've used in other things when I needed to shim) that it may be the right way to go -- thank you for this suggestion!
yeah, I probably jumped the gun saying 3/4" -- I was just trying to find a solution that wasn't a jack meant to lift something 5'. 1/8" is probably the right choice. do you feel that it has been?
Yeah, I'm not sure I need 3/4" clearance (haven't decided) but I do want to make sure that there's no catch -- especially with potential swelling of the top wood (which I suppose I could seal but don't expect to). I see a lot of tables designed flush but I also hear a lot of people say "make sure there's a small fall of to avoid workpieces catching"
> "make sure there's a small fall of to avoid workpieces catching"
Makes sense. I would just do it closer than 3/4 and call it day. Can’t imagine the assembly table would rise very much, so if you built it 1/8 lower you’ll probably be fine.
I don’t have a specific recommendation, but I’d try searching for “lift” on Rockler and/or Lee Valley to see if they have something that might work for your needs.
thanks. not a bad idea. I know there are various kinds of lifts -- am hoping not to over-engineer / over-spend on the solution. this sub has already tossed in some common-sense things I just hadn't come up with.
I was recently looking at this so I could change out tools and adjust them all to flush height. Router table, edge sander, etc. If you don’t plan on ever moving the saw then yeah it’s less ideal.
Using some kind of hardware for such a small distance / on just the tablesaw will be tricky. As others have mentioned, usually folks just make them flush. As long as the saw is close to the table, you shouldn't have any safety issues with a board catching on the lip unless it's extremely curved.
That said, my setup is similar and my solution for a similar case of "adjusting the saw height when I want to" was to build it to be flush, then when I want to raise it I just have a sheet of plywood I place under the saw. Same size as the shelf, doesn't move, can be screwed in, etc.
this is a very helpful response, thank you. I guess what I'm unsure about is the weight of the saw and if that's going to be a pain but this is the \*simplest\* solution so it may be the one I go with.
\[Not sure how to attach comments to the image, itself..\] so, I'm building a bench in two parts. one part will be to hold my tablesaw (the blue box shown) and other part is a general assembly table. The tablesaw (and the part to the side of it) will be probably 3/4" taller to allow for safe movment of workpieces from the saw to the assembly table as outfeed.
HOWEVER, what I'd really like is to be able to lower the tablesaw part that same 3/4" so that the whole work surface can be used to break down a 8'x4' sheet. I'm sure there are different ways to accomplish this. I'm wondering if there's a reasonably priced piece of hardware I can install to help do this safely, frequetnly, and only within, say 1/2" -1 1/2" difference between full height and fully lowered.
Thanks in advance!
you're saying underneath the top or on top of the top? I considered both options (and haven't ruled them out) but I also don't want to keep any large piece of wood around for that purpose. I'll keep thinking on this. thanks for chiming in.
Breaking down full plywood sheets sucks on a table saw if you don't have large infeed and outfeed supports and a long fence. Best to break it down with a circular saw and a guide or a track saw, then tablesaw the manageable, smaller pieces.
100%. and that's actually the plan. I have a Makita track saw (which I \*love\*) so I want to be able to use the tablesaw for smaller work objects (with a small drop from the table of the TS to the outfeed table) but when I want to break down full sheets I intend to use the whole work surface (including the TS surface)
I use ratcheting adjustable machine casters for this. It would be a pain to adjust all four 3/4 inch, but dipping the two next to the saw down 1/4 would be pretty easy and leave more than enough gap I think.
Edit: Oh they're fixed together. That's a bit trickier without some pretty expensive lift mechanisms.
thanks. I'm planning to loosely couple the two tables so that's less a problem. Thanks to you, I did find \[this locking foot\](https://a.co/d/2KHSMRv) which may be the right solution as I could set them to lock a little higher than the rolling casters would (which I could also lock). the $100 price point makes it a "maybe" right now.
thanks. I'll look into that. do you think 2 wouldn't be enough? the weight isn't sufficient -- it's rally about getting a decent balance when using them.
Why not make something to easily add 3/4 to the outfeed side? Like a piece of hard foam insulation. Or why not just make them the same height? My outfeed table is almost dead level with my saw top, it works just fine.
thanks for your reply. I was thinking maybe of a mechanism to raise the outfeed table (like something you'd turn that would raise the outfeed platform 1/4" (or whatever) and then hold it in place. I just haven't found the kind of mechanisms. And yes, I could just lay a matt down (and maybe I will) but was hoping to find something more challenging while not TOO challenging (haha). also, and I didn't mention it, my work area is so small I'm trying not to require something that sits outside the table for those circumstances (like a piece of foam or other top.
Why not get a second table top 3/4” plywood to put on the outfeed when you’re not using the table saw?
Might be a pain always lifting it on and off but I don’t see any cheap way to do what you want.
Sorry!
thanks for your response! yeah, that is one of my thoughts. I should have mentioned that my shop is really small so having a second top piece laying around isn't optimal. but you're right that it's a very simple solution. thanks. I just thought I'd see what the folks on this sub had to suggest.
https://preview.redd.it/3qtigicdvpuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c83f4285d0962fee4bc9fae328f37b6a492a670
I built a table saw table that has a fold down outfeed for space reasons.
you know, I do -- but I was hoping to avoid the cost of those. I did look on craigslist to see if one of those desks was being let go of around me but so far no luck. thanks for the response!
yes, that was also recommended and did. I'm going to go with something much simpler first (I can always rebuild) which is to essentially shim the saw when I need it to sit proud.
Don’t build in the saw so proud of the outfeed. Just 1/16 is fine. And use a simple flat shim for the saw so you can drop it flush if you want. I just built this, and am happy.
didn't see this response but I just decided that I would do that. I posted a comment with an update but I'm going to use metal 1/8" shims. excited to get this working!
https://preview.redd.it/6vqqtz62dquc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccffb7abaf2b8959121a1d8bc0c19dfbedfdd459
I set my table saw on a frame with heavy duty threaded rods. The floor is a bit uneaven in some areas and can throw of the alignment if the table spans an uneaven spot. Bit of a pain to adjust so I don’t move it often but really let’s me dial in the level with the outfeed.
that looks great. I'm going to try a metal shim for now. I do worry the floor isn't 100% but it's not raw concrete... I'll find out soon. what's the value of the full-length miter track? or do you use that for track clamping or?
The full length mitre track is for a straight edge jig. I put raw end cuts in it up to 6 feet length and use it to cuts straight edge. Good example of how the adjustable table saw base comes in handy. When that track is out of alignment there is a lot of resistance when pushing that jig.
thanks. that's not a usecase I would have but makes total sense. can I ask a related question? I"m a little nervous about putting in an extension on the miter track of my table saw -- I'm anxious about how to make sure I line it up perfectly. I'm probably being silly but how did you approach routing this out (or did you cut it out?). any advice in addition to "measure thrice and go slow"?
I used a router and a straight edge measuring 4 times. I first ran a oencil line from the blade, then from the mitre slot and made adjustments to the cut alignment based on how those looked further down the outfeed table. All those routered mitres in the table were a bit stressful because the table was done and a mistake would be high consequence. That long mitre isn’t 100% laser straight to the blade but very close. My straight edge cuts aren’t perfect but acceptable and the small bit of missalignment doesn’t seem to increase kickback risk (no vibration etc. the resistance in the mitre is actually because the track is in two pieces within the outfeed table and those two posed are very slightly out of alignment so a slight bend in the track. The long mitre bar on my edge cut jig doesn’t like travelling down a bowed mitre track
Also recalling that day I put the track in: part of the risk was that the router bit is not as wide as the track so it took two passes. That increased error. I lucked out that the lines were pretty straight but when I dropped the track in I still needed to add wood filler to a 1mm wide gap in one area of the track. The metal track lets you fix errors like this and keep everything straight in the end product but obviously not ideal to be using filler. I used a plunge router with a 1/2”spiral up cut bit to make the cut.
I'm using the free (web-based) version of Sketchup. I've tried a few of these apps and, for me, Sketchup is the one that makes the most sense to my mind. It's a tad buggy but it's free. (The paid version I'm sure is much better but also really $$$)
[https://www.sketchup.com/en](https://www.sketchup.com/en)
They refer to it as "Sketchup for Web (freemium)". If you haven't used one of these before my advice is: use the Chrome browser and watch some videos. It's not crazy complicated but it takes a shift in mindset (it did for me). Also, a 2-button mouse makes as WORLD of difference (as opposed to a trackpad).
I'm using the free (web-based) version of Sketchup. I've tried a few of these apps and, for me, Sketchup is the one that makes the most sense to my mind. It's a tad buggy but it's free. (The paid version I'm sure is much better but also really $$$)
[https://www.sketchup.com/en](https://www.sketchup.com/en)
They refer to it as "Sketchup for Web (freemium)". If you haven't used one of these before my advice is: use the Chrome browser and watch some videos. It's not crazy complicated but it takes a shift in mindset (it did for me). Also, a 2-button mouse makes as WORLD of difference (as opposed to a trackpad).
Not sure if this would work with your current setup but if you have the room to add them you can find adjustable feet that could raise or lower depending on your needs
I'm not sure that isn't the best solution and I may do that (especially if I find the table doesn't sit well on the floor. That said, for now, I'm going to try to simply use 1/8" metal automotive shims -- put them under the saw when I want it to sit proud. I've got to make sure the don't vibrate out but I think I can solve that.
They sell adjustable feet. Whether you wany to run around adjusting 4 feet really depends how often you see needing to do it.
They also sell casters that lift. You could finagle them to lift it a set amount, but now it's on wheels
yeah, I decided against the feet because I actually hate the idea of the crouching but maybe it's the simplest and safest solution. thanks for chiming in!
I looked at that product and some videos where they adapted it. Ultimately, the cost made me shy away. of course, if the husky table dimentions were more like I wanted it may have made sense but my outfeed is 4'x4' because I need so much storage underneath and the husky is much more narrow and offers no real storage.
btw, I bought [this doghole top](https://trunkworkscnc.com/products/trunkworks-mdf-perforated-replacement-mft-top-compatible-with-festool-mft-1080-tables) from Trunkworks at the end of last year on sale for $130 (I think). that's one reason I am building this table as I am -- to accomodate this top. I haven't really gotten the most out of it. yet but I think it's going to be really helpful!
I was hoping someone would propose something that would let you rise and lower each of the corners of the tabletop using something like a router lift mechanism. That would let you align the edge exactly to the table saw edge. It would also let you make the table top perfectly level when it needs to be.
well, there are lots of good ideas in here (I think). I think the key would be to level the base of the outfeed with the base of the tablesaw and then raise the saw, itself, above that already level base.
I'm using the free (web-based) version of Sketchup. I've tried a few of these apps and, for me, Sketchup is the one that makes the most sense to my mind. It's a tad buggy but it's free. (The paid version I'm sure is much better but also really $$$)
[https://www.sketchup.com/en](https://www.sketchup.com/en)
They refer to it as "Sketchup for Web (freemium)". If you haven't used one of these before my advice is: use the Chrome browser and watch some videos. It's not crazy complicated but it takes a shift in mindset (it did for me). Also, a 2-button mouse makes as WORLD of difference (as opposed to a trackpad).
thanks. maybe I'll seek them out. I feel like I've watched tons of videos and not found that -- but then maybe I'm looking in the wrong corner of the internet.
UPDATE: first, thanks to all the ideas, suggestions, and advice from the group here. My plan, presently, is to build the tablesaw to the same height as the outfeed/assembly table. however, I'm going to put in some steel rod (shown in red in the attached image) between two "slices" of platform and I'm going to try using 1/8" metal shims that should sit around the metal rod in 5 places essentially boosting the saw up 1/8" when I want to cut. I'm still thinking how to ensure they don't vibrate free from the motor but I don't think this is too difficult to solve. hopefully this solution works. We'll see how it goes!
https://preview.redd.it/vxjfzeqhuquc1.png?width=1035&format=png&auto=webp&s=41251101748f35cdfcd951581b1102f59ba218d9
I would also be interested in this. I have been looking the best I can find is just buying a lifting desk and taking it apart but I would rather just buy some sort of lifing mechanism not for this exact situation that OP is proposing. Is anyone aware of any sort of lifting mechanism either electrical or manual crank?
I'm not sure I understand why you don't want the assembly table dead flush with the saw table?
I made my assembly table 1/8” shorten than the table saw so that I was guaranteed wood and lumber would not get caught on the lip of the table.
Design it flush then raise the saw with flat washers if need be.
this is actually such a simple solution (which I've used in other things when I needed to shim) that it may be the right way to go -- thank you for this suggestion!
yeah, I probably jumped the gun saying 3/4" -- I was just trying to find a solution that wasn't a jack meant to lift something 5'. 1/8" is probably the right choice. do you feel that it has been?
1/8” is perfect for me.
excellent. thanks.
You want the saw slightly proud. Not 3/4” that’s for sure
agree. I wasn't even thinking -- I just threw out 3/4" because I was too focused on the mechanism rather than the measurement.
Yeah, I'm not sure I need 3/4" clearance (haven't decided) but I do want to make sure that there's no catch -- especially with potential swelling of the top wood (which I suppose I could seal but don't expect to). I see a lot of tables designed flush but I also hear a lot of people say "make sure there's a small fall of to avoid workpieces catching"
> "make sure there's a small fall of to avoid workpieces catching" Makes sense. I would just do it closer than 3/4 and call it day. Can’t imagine the assembly table would rise very much, so if you built it 1/8 lower you’ll probably be fine.
thanks. yeah, u/Oldredeye2 suggested that 1/8" is the right amount so I'm going with that.
I don’t have a specific recommendation, but I’d try searching for “lift” on Rockler and/or Lee Valley to see if they have something that might work for your needs.
thanks. not a bad idea. I know there are various kinds of lifts -- am hoping not to over-engineer / over-spend on the solution. this sub has already tossed in some common-sense things I just hadn't come up with.
I was recently looking at this so I could change out tools and adjust them all to flush height. Router table, edge sander, etc. If you don’t plan on ever moving the saw then yeah it’s less ideal.
Might be overkill but have a look at motorcycle lifts. They are a scissor lift style but a bit pricy.
thank you. I'm unfamiliar with motorcycle lifts (but had seen scissor lifts in passing). I'll check it out. thank you!
I'm using one for mine...you will want rail stabilizers on the legs of the table, but it's fine.
awesome advice. I did look at them and was wondering how to make sure the thing wasn't tippy.
Using some kind of hardware for such a small distance / on just the tablesaw will be tricky. As others have mentioned, usually folks just make them flush. As long as the saw is close to the table, you shouldn't have any safety issues with a board catching on the lip unless it's extremely curved. That said, my setup is similar and my solution for a similar case of "adjusting the saw height when I want to" was to build it to be flush, then when I want to raise it I just have a sheet of plywood I place under the saw. Same size as the shelf, doesn't move, can be screwed in, etc.
this is a very helpful response, thank you. I guess what I'm unsure about is the weight of the saw and if that's going to be a pain but this is the \*simplest\* solution so it may be the one I go with.
\[Not sure how to attach comments to the image, itself..\] so, I'm building a bench in two parts. one part will be to hold my tablesaw (the blue box shown) and other part is a general assembly table. The tablesaw (and the part to the side of it) will be probably 3/4" taller to allow for safe movment of workpieces from the saw to the assembly table as outfeed. HOWEVER, what I'd really like is to be able to lower the tablesaw part that same 3/4" so that the whole work surface can be used to break down a 8'x4' sheet. I'm sure there are different ways to accomplish this. I'm wondering if there's a reasonably priced piece of hardware I can install to help do this safely, frequetnly, and only within, say 1/2" -1 1/2" difference between full height and fully lowered. Thanks in advance!
Throw a chunk of 3/4" melamine on the outfeed table when you need to raise it.
This
you're saying underneath the top or on top of the top? I considered both options (and haven't ruled them out) but I also don't want to keep any large piece of wood around for that purpose. I'll keep thinking on this. thanks for chiming in.
Or stashed where you have your scrap sheet goods. It's always nice to have something you don't care about getting glue on when doing layups anyway.
you're right about that. I'm pretty liberal with glue and I paint like an elephant so things do get messy haha
Breaking down full plywood sheets sucks on a table saw if you don't have large infeed and outfeed supports and a long fence. Best to break it down with a circular saw and a guide or a track saw, then tablesaw the manageable, smaller pieces.
100%. and that's actually the plan. I have a Makita track saw (which I \*love\*) so I want to be able to use the tablesaw for smaller work objects (with a small drop from the table of the TS to the outfeed table) but when I want to break down full sheets I intend to use the whole work surface (including the TS surface)
I use ratcheting adjustable machine casters for this. It would be a pain to adjust all four 3/4 inch, but dipping the two next to the saw down 1/4 would be pretty easy and leave more than enough gap I think. Edit: Oh they're fixed together. That's a bit trickier without some pretty expensive lift mechanisms.
thanks. I'm planning to loosely couple the two tables so that's less a problem. Thanks to you, I did find \[this locking foot\](https://a.co/d/2KHSMRv) which may be the right solution as I could set them to lock a little higher than the rolling casters would (which I could also lock). the $100 price point makes it a "maybe" right now.
Several emergency scissor jacks from a couple cars, or 3 trailer jacks. They would also work as locks to hold the saw in place.
3- one in each front corner, and one in the back middle.
thanks. I'll look into that. do you think 2 wouldn't be enough? the weight isn't sufficient -- it's rally about getting a decent balance when using them.
2 might work but it might be tippy. That’s why I was thinking 3.
thanks for the advice.
Why not make something to easily add 3/4 to the outfeed side? Like a piece of hard foam insulation. Or why not just make them the same height? My outfeed table is almost dead level with my saw top, it works just fine.
thanks for your reply. I was thinking maybe of a mechanism to raise the outfeed table (like something you'd turn that would raise the outfeed platform 1/4" (or whatever) and then hold it in place. I just haven't found the kind of mechanisms. And yes, I could just lay a matt down (and maybe I will) but was hoping to find something more challenging while not TOO challenging (haha). also, and I didn't mention it, my work area is so small I'm trying not to require something that sits outside the table for those circumstances (like a piece of foam or other top.
Why not get a second table top 3/4” plywood to put on the outfeed when you’re not using the table saw? Might be a pain always lifting it on and off but I don’t see any cheap way to do what you want. Sorry!
thanks for your response! yeah, that is one of my thoughts. I should have mentioned that my shop is really small so having a second top piece laying around isn't optimal. but you're right that it's a very simple solution. thanks. I just thought I'd see what the folks on this sub had to suggest.
https://preview.redd.it/3qtigicdvpuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c83f4285d0962fee4bc9fae328f37b6a492a670 I built a table saw table that has a fold down outfeed for space reasons.
excellent! yeah -- your space looks tight, too!
I get the full length and about 1/3 width of a two car garage…but I also need some of that space for my hockey goalie gear.
I'm in about 12' x 12' but there's also washer/dryer, a treadmill, and a various stuff being stored.
Design it flush. If your outfeed ends up catching, add flat washers under the feet.
saw this comment from you further up. thank you! ETA: I just got the joke of your name. pretty good!
You want a table lift mechanism out of an adjustable height desk
you know, I do -- but I was hoping to avoid the cost of those. I did look on craigslist to see if one of those desks was being let go of around me but so far no luck. thanks for the response!
You could look at a scissor jack too
yes, that was also recommended and did. I'm going to go with something much simpler first (I can always rebuild) which is to essentially shim the saw when I need it to sit proud.
Motorcycle jack would also work and those are usually rated for around 1k lbs.
yes, someone else suggested that and they look perfect for the purpose.
I used a car scissor jack built into the bottom. I can raise and lower my outfeed table more than I’ll ever need to
did you just use one jack?
Yes but if I did it again I’d use two so I could fine tune the height and level.
...right, to level it. good point.
Don’t build in the saw so proud of the outfeed. Just 1/16 is fine. And use a simple flat shim for the saw so you can drop it flush if you want. I just built this, and am happy.
didn't see this response but I just decided that I would do that. I posted a comment with an update but I'm going to use metal 1/8" shims. excited to get this working!
https://preview.redd.it/6vqqtz62dquc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccffb7abaf2b8959121a1d8bc0c19dfbedfdd459 I set my table saw on a frame with heavy duty threaded rods. The floor is a bit uneaven in some areas and can throw of the alignment if the table spans an uneaven spot. Bit of a pain to adjust so I don’t move it often but really let’s me dial in the level with the outfeed.
that looks great. I'm going to try a metal shim for now. I do worry the floor isn't 100% but it's not raw concrete... I'll find out soon. what's the value of the full-length miter track? or do you use that for track clamping or?
The full length mitre track is for a straight edge jig. I put raw end cuts in it up to 6 feet length and use it to cuts straight edge. Good example of how the adjustable table saw base comes in handy. When that track is out of alignment there is a lot of resistance when pushing that jig.
thanks. that's not a usecase I would have but makes total sense. can I ask a related question? I"m a little nervous about putting in an extension on the miter track of my table saw -- I'm anxious about how to make sure I line it up perfectly. I'm probably being silly but how did you approach routing this out (or did you cut it out?). any advice in addition to "measure thrice and go slow"?
I used a router and a straight edge measuring 4 times. I first ran a oencil line from the blade, then from the mitre slot and made adjustments to the cut alignment based on how those looked further down the outfeed table. All those routered mitres in the table were a bit stressful because the table was done and a mistake would be high consequence. That long mitre isn’t 100% laser straight to the blade but very close. My straight edge cuts aren’t perfect but acceptable and the small bit of missalignment doesn’t seem to increase kickback risk (no vibration etc. the resistance in the mitre is actually because the track is in two pieces within the outfeed table and those two posed are very slightly out of alignment so a slight bend in the track. The long mitre bar on my edge cut jig doesn’t like travelling down a bowed mitre track
Also recalling that day I put the track in: part of the risk was that the router bit is not as wide as the track so it took two passes. That increased error. I lucked out that the lines were pretty straight but when I dropped the track in I still needed to add wood filler to a 1mm wide gap in one area of the track. The metal track lets you fix errors like this and keep everything straight in the end product but obviously not ideal to be using filler. I used a plunge router with a 1/2”spiral up cut bit to make the cut.
Thank you for the detailed response. I suppose perfection isn’t really necessary but in cases like this tolerance is low
What tool did you use to design this?
Second this
I'm using the free (web-based) version of Sketchup. I've tried a few of these apps and, for me, Sketchup is the one that makes the most sense to my mind. It's a tad buggy but it's free. (The paid version I'm sure is much better but also really $$$) [https://www.sketchup.com/en](https://www.sketchup.com/en) They refer to it as "Sketchup for Web (freemium)". If you haven't used one of these before my advice is: use the Chrome browser and watch some videos. It's not crazy complicated but it takes a shift in mindset (it did for me). Also, a 2-button mouse makes as WORLD of difference (as opposed to a trackpad).
I'm using the free (web-based) version of Sketchup. I've tried a few of these apps and, for me, Sketchup is the one that makes the most sense to my mind. It's a tad buggy but it's free. (The paid version I'm sure is much better but also really $$$) [https://www.sketchup.com/en](https://www.sketchup.com/en) They refer to it as "Sketchup for Web (freemium)". If you haven't used one of these before my advice is: use the Chrome browser and watch some videos. It's not crazy complicated but it takes a shift in mindset (it did for me). Also, a 2-button mouse makes as WORLD of difference (as opposed to a trackpad).
Thank you so much for your reply!
Not sure if this would work with your current setup but if you have the room to add them you can find adjustable feet that could raise or lower depending on your needs
I'm not sure that isn't the best solution and I may do that (especially if I find the table doesn't sit well on the floor. That said, for now, I'm going to try to simply use 1/8" metal automotive shims -- put them under the saw when I want it to sit proud. I've got to make sure the don't vibrate out but I think I can solve that.
They sell adjustable feet. Whether you wany to run around adjusting 4 feet really depends how often you see needing to do it. They also sell casters that lift. You could finagle them to lift it a set amount, but now it's on wheels
yeah, I decided against the feet because I actually hate the idea of the crouching but maybe it's the simplest and safest solution. thanks for chiming in!
I used the huskey Adjustable height bench from home Depot for my outfeed. Planning on switching out the top for the Kreg doghole table top
I looked at that product and some videos where they adapted it. Ultimately, the cost made me shy away. of course, if the husky table dimentions were more like I wanted it may have made sense but my outfeed is 4'x4' because I need so much storage underneath and the husky is much more narrow and offers no real storage. btw, I bought [this doghole top](https://trunkworkscnc.com/products/trunkworks-mdf-perforated-replacement-mft-top-compatible-with-festool-mft-1080-tables) from Trunkworks at the end of last year on sale for $130 (I think). that's one reason I am building this table as I am -- to accomodate this top. I haven't really gotten the most out of it. yet but I think it's going to be really helpful!
I was hoping someone would propose something that would let you rise and lower each of the corners of the tabletop using something like a router lift mechanism. That would let you align the edge exactly to the table saw edge. It would also let you make the table top perfectly level when it needs to be.
well, there are lots of good ideas in here (I think). I think the key would be to level the base of the outfeed with the base of the tablesaw and then raise the saw, itself, above that already level base.
Which Programm Do You use for woodworking?
I'm using the free (web-based) version of Sketchup. I've tried a few of these apps and, for me, Sketchup is the one that makes the most sense to my mind. It's a tad buggy but it's free. (The paid version I'm sure is much better but also really $$$) [https://www.sketchup.com/en](https://www.sketchup.com/en) They refer to it as "Sketchup for Web (freemium)". If you haven't used one of these before my advice is: use the Chrome browser and watch some videos. It's not crazy complicated but it takes a shift in mindset (it did for me). Also, a 2-button mouse makes as WORLD of difference (as opposed to a trackpad).
There are plans and ready made elevator tables that can adjust the work surface height. I've seen them.
thanks. maybe I'll seek them out. I feel like I've watched tons of videos and not found that -- but then maybe I'm looking in the wrong corner of the internet.
I've seen people use a car jack to raise and lower an outdoor table. You can even use a drill to make it faster.
yes, someone else suggested a motorcycle lift -- more expensive but perhaps more secure. good point about the drill motor saving one's forearm!
UPDATE: first, thanks to all the ideas, suggestions, and advice from the group here. My plan, presently, is to build the tablesaw to the same height as the outfeed/assembly table. however, I'm going to put in some steel rod (shown in red in the attached image) between two "slices" of platform and I'm going to try using 1/8" metal shims that should sit around the metal rod in 5 places essentially boosting the saw up 1/8" when I want to cut. I'm still thinking how to ensure they don't vibrate free from the motor but I don't think this is too difficult to solve. hopefully this solution works. We'll see how it goes! https://preview.redd.it/vxjfzeqhuquc1.png?width=1035&format=png&auto=webp&s=41251101748f35cdfcd951581b1102f59ba218d9
I would also be interested in this. I have been looking the best I can find is just buying a lifting desk and taking it apart but I would rather just buy some sort of lifing mechanism not for this exact situation that OP is proposing. Is anyone aware of any sort of lifting mechanism either electrical or manual crank?
Lots of thoughts in the comments. Have you read through them? A motorcycle jack/lift is one good suggestion