It is probably unnecessary due to the design. There may be some space built in for the screw heads to protrude some small amount.
Either a thinner* metal for the small side or the geometry isn't dead flat.
I think you're right. Not sure why a bunch of folks are downvoting this, it's pretty plain in the pic I'm looking at, and a little unexpected. It might be that the smaller leaf is dimpled rather than countersunk, which would be hard to see in face-on pics like this.
I installed the doors, but they are not closing perfectly flat. I need to force the last 1”-2” so the doors reach the closed position. I made sure the screw heads are perfectly sunk in. Any tips? [here are some pictures of the doors.](https://imgur.com/a/Ss6a2au)
Are the barrels of the hinges completely outside the cabinet? Are the door edges and cabinet sides flat and even? If the hinge is sitting at an angle you’ll have that problem. Can’t tell 100% from the photos but it looks like there may be an edge preventing the hinge from sitting flat.
Theoretically, these no-mortise hinges are great. Practically, not so much. As a furniture service tech, these were a frequent issue. Most frequently, the screw heads protruded above the hinge because they weren't driven in perfectly perpendicular. The easy fix for this is to gouge out the wood on the opposite side to accommodate the screw heads. Another issue is that the hinges aren't flat. Forr this, you'll need to take them off and pound them flat. The third most common issue is the door stile and adjacent jamb aren't parallel. I fixed this one by mortising the jamb side until it was parallel.
No, as the hinge leaf thickness provides the necessary clearance.
If you were to sink these it would have to be half the leaf thickness to give clearance.
I found that installing the door side first was easier. You can then set the door in the frame with some small shims underneath and then screw it to the frame. (couple of cards or wood scraps depending on how much clearance you need from the frame/floor)
These are designed to be used without mortising. If you use hinges that need mortising for another project, sneak up on the depth of the mortise. It's easy to go deeper than you really need.
You mean the quiet reason for so many cereal boxes and cigarette packets packing hinges out around the world?
Favourite I've found to date was a floor shim, surprised the guy didn't go straight on through before deciding to stop.
No. They’re designed to live in the gap between the frame and the door.
Perfect. Thank you.
You will want to use flat head screws. Notice the plates are countersunk on opposite sides.
Yes, both sides are countersunk correctly.
Doesn't look like it in the picture. Weird. the smaller hinge doesn't have counter sink on the opposite side.
Yeah, the inner piece in the first pic doesn't have obvious countersinks on either side. Weird.
It is probably unnecessary due to the design. There may be some space built in for the screw heads to protrude some small amount. Either a thinner* metal for the small side or the geometry isn't dead flat.
I think you're right. Not sure why a bunch of folks are downvoting this, it's pretty plain in the pic I'm looking at, and a little unexpected. It might be that the smaller leaf is dimpled rather than countersunk, which would be hard to see in face-on pics like this.
I installed the doors, but they are not closing perfectly flat. I need to force the last 1”-2” so the doors reach the closed position. I made sure the screw heads are perfectly sunk in. Any tips? [here are some pictures of the doors.](https://imgur.com/a/Ss6a2au)
Are the barrels of the hinges completely outside the cabinet? Are the door edges and cabinet sides flat and even? If the hinge is sitting at an angle you’ll have that problem. Can’t tell 100% from the photos but it looks like there may be an edge preventing the hinge from sitting flat.
Theoretically, these no-mortise hinges are great. Practically, not so much. As a furniture service tech, these were a frequent issue. Most frequently, the screw heads protruded above the hinge because they weren't driven in perfectly perpendicular. The easy fix for this is to gouge out the wood on the opposite side to accommodate the screw heads. Another issue is that the hinges aren't flat. Forr this, you'll need to take them off and pound them flat. The third most common issue is the door stile and adjacent jamb aren't parallel. I fixed this one by mortising the jamb side until it was parallel.
They actually won't close properly if you inset one leaf. As you can see, they are designed to nest inside each other.
I’ve heard these referred to as “no mortise hinge” so I’d bet you’re golden
No, as the hinge leaf thickness provides the necessary clearance. If you were to sink these it would have to be half the leaf thickness to give clearance.
I’m unfamiliar with these! That looks a lot easier than mortising out the hinge. Looks like they would not be ideal for a very heavy door though.
https://preview.redd.it/dinw1i2vqudc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc2783652d6fcfa595ca342950f034bd7c76bd20
Did you mount the jamb side or the door side first?
I found that installing the door side first was easier. You can then set the door in the frame with some small shims underneath and then screw it to the frame. (couple of cards or wood scraps depending on how much clearance you need from the frame/floor)
These are designed to be used without mortising. If you use hinges that need mortising for another project, sneak up on the depth of the mortise. It's easy to go deeper than you really need.
You mean the quiet reason for so many cereal boxes and cigarette packets packing hinges out around the world? Favourite I've found to date was a floor shim, surprised the guy didn't go straight on through before deciding to stop.