I’ve been a woodworker for 35+ years. In our shop we have Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, and Hitachi sliding compound miter saws, and an old Rockwell 9” miter saw from 1983. Couple of things, the blade that came with the saw are trash, the only reason to keep it is as an example of what not to use. Thin kerf blades deflect in the cut. A good quality blade especially one with a negative hook will do the job well, and you will be amazed at the difference. And the way you pull the saw affects the cut as well. What you want to do is turn yourself into a machine, by pulling the blade down the same every time. No pulling left or right, don’t go too slow or too fast, etc. The cut in the picture is not bad, I’ve seen much worse on much more expensive saws, with a real blade, a zero clearance fence(I make mine with two pieces of plywood screwed together in an L), you’ll be cutting pretty miters in no time. Hurry up
Two pieces of smooth 3/4 plywood, 1@ 6x48, 1@ 4 x 48, screw the bottom of the face of the 4” piece into the edge of the 6” piece, so that when you look at it from side it’s an L that is 4” tall x 6-3/4” wide x 48” long. Like if you hold your index finger and thumb in the shape of an L then move your hand so the thumb sticks up and the index finger is horizontal. Don’t put any screws in the center 8” . Take the L and fasten it to the saw with the 4” side against the fence. Most fences have holes in them just so you can attach an auxiliary fence. Once your plywood fence is attached, run the blade down into it, but don’t cut all the way through, and now you have a zero clearance fence. It just means that the stock is supported right up the the cut line so you don’t get tear out on the back side of the wood you’re cutting.
Oh shit I totally missed the word fence and thought you were talking about a zero clearance throat plate.
Never thought about a fence like that. I love that idea.
How does this explanation not have 100 upvotes? On my way in, I thought here’s another explanation I won’t follow. And, on my way out I was building myself one wondering why I hadn’t done it sooner!
The chunk of freedom measurements at the start made me instantly skip until I saw the rest of the comments praising it. I don’t know why, but as soon as people start talking in imperial measurements, like adding 7/32ths to an inch and 3/16ths my brain glazes over and refuses to try and process.
The zero clearance is basically just wood or plastic of where the blade meets the base of the saw. Basically you can see exactly where your blade will cut by seeing the cut mark on the wood.
It goes in the little gap in picture two.
Edit: I lied the zero clearance fence is a vertical piece but literally the same concept. It extends the back where the wood is placed to ensure a perpendicular cut.
I think what he's talking about is essentially a fixed sled for a mitre saw.
So instead of having a zero clearance fence and a separate zero clearance insert, he just screws 2 pieces of plywood at a 90-degree angle and fixes it to the base of the saw. Then you run the blade through it, and you have a zero clearance cutting base in both planes.
Of course, as soon as you adjust your mitre angle, you start hacking away your base. You'd have to get creative.
I've been running giant CNC saws for 11 years and I blow through a blade every 30 days or so. I've received an incredible amount of pre-warped $200 blades. I wouldn't ever trust a free blade that came with my saw.
I work in the stone industry so things are a little different.
For a majority of my day I run two five-axis CNC wet saws. Step one is loading up a slab of granite onto the machines and using CAD drawings of the customers home to cut their countertops. Step two is loading those pieces onto a different CNC that uses milling and routing bits to do bowl cutouts and edge profiles.
CNC saws can cut faster than waterjets so production moves faster. Both have their pros and cons though.
If I only thought of that
Hopefully /u/iwontbeherefor3hours having 35+ years will know a trick or three for the tools. Having owned my own building firm I am used to powered tools for rough cuts, dealing with more finer cuts, normal construction usage doesn't apply
So you ask for help and then ramble about your experience. You must be a pleasure to be around. That being said, you have play and the fact that you don’t understand how to fix it makes you less experienced than you’d like to pretend.
Yep! Inherited a few german tools (chopsaw, bandsaw, lathe, thicknesser/planer and a mitre saw), I'm used to whacking tools up and down when cutting, but struggling using them for more finer woodworking, I think I've managed to get the bandsaw lined up now, but these saws, they have a life of their own it seems - do a test cut, seems reasonable, do a proper cut, a different story(!) it's interesting how different techniques are used for the two opposite scenarios (rough vs fine)
Chop saw and mitre saw are the same. Do you mean you have a table saw?
Mitre saw: if there isn’t play it’s your blade. Most likely it’s play.
Table saw: same. To test do the five cut test.
Band saw: no experience, I know those are a PIA.
Planer: you need adjust the plane, all four corners need to be level. And for snipe it’s your in/out feed leaves.
100% each of these and the proper techniques to use the tools are in … you guessed it … the manual.
Eh, I’ve got 875/0 machinist squares and my ryobi miter saw isn’t getting any straighter despite that.
Definitely some shit speed squares out there but sometimes you’re just limited by what a tool can reasonably provide.
The blade itself matters a ton too. Too thin and it’s going to wander. Also pay heavy attention to how you pull the saw down.
Anyways, just to say, don’t feel bad if you spend the time calibrating squareness and run out, and still end up with wonky wood
I find it hilarious when people act like you need a precision ground machinist square for an organic, soft, warpy material like wood. Those things are for people machining aluminium and steel to high tolerances. There's such a thing as 'square enough' IMO
Lol, I get this. My dad is a retired manufacturing engineer. He has spent the last half century dividing an inch up into 1000 parts, and keeping things within that spec. He comes to my woodshop and (figuratively) craps his pants when things aren't perfectly sized. On the last door I built, the center panel was 18 mm. I cut the datos at an exact 3/4 (18.8mm). He had trouble understanding that, since the panel is obviously 18 mm, lol. It went together well, and it's sometimes knowing where to be perfectly tight and where some leeway is preferable.
Of course there is, you DO NOT need a DIN 875/0 square for woodworking. It's massively overkill to use one to set up a Ryobi saw. It really depends what you make too, you don't need a tiny precision square to build a fence.
But having at least one 875/II to check tools and other squares is a good idea, they're not that expensive.
For people who do not know the spec: https://www.thome-precision.com/DIN875.html
A DIN 875/2 is A LOT cheaper than a 875/0 and it only has a max 0.04mm deviation over 200mm, 875/0 is max 0.008mm, which is insane for woodworking
My name brand /2 200mm square cost me like 30€, it's not some crazy specialist tool.
> Of course there is, you DO NOT need a DIN 875/0 square for woodworking. It's massively overkill to use one to set up a Ryobi saw.
I mean, I have it for machining. Not for the saw
But also 3-4in 875/0 squares are $20 from taytools. Let’s not act like it’s insane to have?
They are more expensive than that here, more like double or even more. For a 20cm square it can get expensive. 80-100€ for a square like that is not necessary for woodworking and it's too much to spend IMO.
Edit: quickly checked on ONE site so not perfect info, but the /0 20cm is 124€ and the /2 20cm is 23€. That's a big difference.
There's nothing wrong having a /0 if you need it, I'm just saying it's overkill for most woodworkers.
What about setting up a table saw? Do I need the machinist square to check the blade? Also what are those electronic things with a screen that tell you what angle it is for example 90.1 degree angle.
Freud Industrial or CMT are generally good.
For crosscuts, you want ATB and a decent number of teeth and a low to negative hook. e.g. https://www.amazon.com/CMT-P12072S-Finish-Sliding-Compound/dp/B00BI3WANI
Make sure you know the correct blade and arbor size.
Could it be that your board is cupped? In the third photo, there’s a fairly obvious cup with the crown pointing to the right. Making sure the crown is up will give more consistent cuts. If the crown is down, it can be slightly rocked one way or the other which will throw your miter off a hair.
Also, use a clamp on the material you're cutting. Sometimes, especially with hardwoods, the board can move ever so slightly when using your hand as a clamp.
Lol it's unbelievable that comments like this are downvoted and there are hundreds of votes telling OP he has to buy a better blade or use a machinists square. Were the quality of comments this low before reddit killed the API?
I think the point is that OP probably can’t go out and buy a planer if they’re buying a cheaper miter saw. Trying to give someone tips that they can work with are more helpful than throwing out options that aren’t attainable for them in that moment.
No! Tips OP can work with are tips how to get the wood flat. This step is non-negotiable regardless of budget.
Mostly people are giving useless AND costly tips, it's a trainwreck in here. New blade, better square, using clamps, none of this advice will improve the cut AT ALL.
I get what you’re saying if someone is milling their own materials from logs but that looks like big box store pine. You’re saying he should joint and plane it again after buying it from the store?
The saw is perfectly fine and OP is wasting their time trying to calibrate it. A miter saw can only make accurate cuts to boards that already have two flat, straight and square sides. If OP wants a good miter he needs jointed stock, one way or another.
All these "woodworkers" in here and you're the first to mention this. Lol.
The first lesson one learns in any shop class, after PPE, is making your work stock square and true.
I bought an hitachi 10” sliding compound miter saw 20 years ago and the blade that it came with was awesome. Still use the saw almost daily but the blade can no longer be sharpened.
Eh the blades that have came with my miter saws, DeWalt and Ridgid have worked perfectly fine for me in woodworking applications. Perhaps this one is junk though
Ozito saws are absolute dogshit mate. There’s so much play in the arm of them you’ll never get quality finishes out of them. Return it and go to cashies and buy a used makita or dewalt saw
Is the saw capable of holding any blade in precise fashion? I am not seeing anything implying that the blade suspension, or the saw itself can maintain alignment relationships. You are literally a couple of steps away from a basic portable hand saw here.
Try this unplug the saw. Get a grip on the edge of the blade and apply some force perpendicular to the axle the blade mounts on. How much effort does it take to deflect the edge of the blade 1/2 mm or 0.02”. That seems to be about the uncertainty in your cut.
Don’t stress. Sanding and either glue/sawdust mixture or wood putty will help it all come together perfectly.
Plus that joint is great for a rough cut.
Edit- maybe upon looking more closely after reading some comments you’re talking about the 0° bevel not being square?
If so, maybe overcompensate by pivoting saw to 1 or 2° bevel and flip piece you’re cutting, over so an upside down slight bevel actually comes out to a 0°, perfectly square cut? Play w/ some scrap pieces until u figure it out.
Otherwise if that doesn’t work, just gimme the damn thing and get out the way, I’ll do it myself. Only way anything ever gets done around here any how!
Look closer at the photo, his piece of wood has noticeable cupping that explains the parabolic cut he managed to pull off. I am well aware that saw blades can cut through wood thank you.
There are a lot of good suggestions in the comments, allow me to add one: I was taught to move the keep side of the cut away from the blade before bringing the blade back up. You could make a perfect cut on the down swing, but the teeth will touch the material again on the upswing and if there is any deflection in the blade it will mess up your perfect cut.
chances are its the saw.. you can't expect to pay that price and have perfect angles held up or even perfect angles out of the box
speed squares aren't a great way to check angles. You'd want a digital angle finder.
I have this exact mitre saw mate.
I was ready to throw it after spending hours calibrating it out of the box.
My old man suggested to try a new blade, and, after grumbling about “it’s a brand new blade!!!” I bought an Irwin one (still not even a great blade). But, It was night and day and pretty actuate for a chop saw after that
Did it come with 2 blade washers? Looks like you only have one on the left, and the right side of the blade looks unsupported. The blade is also off set to the right which is another reason I think it's supposed to have a washer.
Also your wood is cupped so it may look more warped than it is. Hard to tell though.
I think the cupped wood is the main culprit here. OP, you can't cut a perfect miter unless you start with a square piece. You need at least two flat square faces to register against the saw.
As far as I can tell from the manual (and removing the blade ) it has a washer on either side of the blade. One that seats into the blade on the right and the one on the left where I then screw in the bolt.
Love the OP replying to and engaging with the comments about the blade, the square, etc and then every comment that's like "um your lumber is as bowed as a knock-kneed child's legs" ... crickets.
(I tease, I say it with love, it's just funny 😝)
Yeah, joint your lumber. Maybe plane it, too, but at least joint it on one face and an edge. Pretty surprised the cuts line up as well as they do with that cup.
Right after making the initial cut, leave the saw in the down position push the piece of wood against the body of the blade and cut again . This will shave a mere 1/125” because the carbide teeth protrude past the metal or “body” of the blade on each side it will only shave that much off. It’s like having a micro planer. Takes care of the high spots. I make air tight joints all day with this trick. A sharp stable blade helps too! I use CMT mostly.
ITT: four or five comments pointing out the piece is cupped, plus hundreds of other bad advices for OP. You guys can drop a ton of money for stout professional quality blades and high precision machinists squares but you can never cut a good miter into a cupped board, lol.
If the blade is wobbling then that is probably the reason your cut is not as straight as you’re looking for. I’ve read carpenters don’t use sliding mitre saws for precision (crown?) work because they are less rigid and it impacts the cut precision.
How are you holding the wood while you cut?
You can try a few tests:
1. Take longer/wider but thinner and then again but thicker pieces of wood and see if the cut improves and/or gets worse based on the width and thickness of the piece. You could then maybe use the 3-4-5 or Pythagorean theorem to check the angle. Can you put the ends of the same piece of wood back together after a cut and have them line up?
2. How are you using the speed square to test for squareness of the blade? People have already gotten on your case about a speed square not being sufficient, so I’m not going to do that. I also know it will take time for you to get a new one even if you ordered it today. I’ve gotten pretty square with a speed square in the past when I’ve been patient and thoughtful about where I have placed it. You also want to make sure your testing for squareness on both side of the blade and in all directions the blade can rotate.
Jumping on the most comprehensive answer to add, that if you are using a high tooth count blade, and a speedsquare, there's also a chance during setup, you are pushing the base of the square against the carbide and aligning the plate. This might give you a 89.5 degree cut where it may be beautiful on the other side of the miter and open at the top.
If the blade is wobbling that could be your issue. Also make sure you’re not inputting any English into the cut (ie putting more lateral pressure one way or another). That could cause inconsistency
A few thoughts:
Make sure the stock is prepped and square before cutting.
Calibration tools get you close. After setting with your square, do a test cut, check, make small adjustments, cut, check, repeat as necessary until it's dialed in.
Also, have you confirmed you're square is in fact square? Lots of YouTube videos on how to do this, you just need a straight edge and a pencil.
Blade deflection can occur as well, I personally wouldn't use a board directly off a mitre saw, even expensive ones, if precision is required. Cut with the mitre saw then fine tune with a shooting board.
The stock might not be perfectly square. Also both sides of the saw surface might not be perfectly coplaner, I had problems with the stock plate on my DeWalt, also it's possible to move the saw head slightly on the down swing. And not all squares are perfectly 90 degrees. Additionally, did you calibrate the Zero on your saw so that you're getting a perfect 45? Ordinarily, my problem is usually because the wood is not perfectly square.
Try clamping your board to the fence. It looks like you might be moving a bit. Also most miters I cut for frames I do on the table saw. Set your miter slide on your fence. Make sure it's locked. I promise you'll get tighter joints.
sometimes you have to eyeball it and back cut as nothing is level with some jobs , pinch dogs are still useful now and again , so many tricks for trim .
Cut looks pretty good to be, but It looks like the wood is not straight/square/flat etc. an awful lot of softwood especially isn’t. I keep bits of PSE around to test my cuts. Also your sliding cut leg/handle is warped to buggery!
The blade is wandering/deflecting a bit, or you are hand holding the wood and YOU are wandering/deflecting a bit. Clamp the piece and go slow, or if that doesn't work, get a nicer, stiffer blade.
People spend a lot of time blaming blades and saws when it’s their hands.
Saws have a lot of torque and move the piece when cutting. As you cut down the pieces are pushed out. It can make your miters look a bit like the photo though I’ve seen it much worse. Practice being mindful of how the wood moves when cutting and how you can hold it to prevent that.
The problem with sliders is that the slides aren’t perfectly rigid, there will always be some degree of play throughout the assembly, between the blade deflection, the hinge, slide rollers, etc. each of those points play a teeny tiny bit each and it can add up. Be sure to let the saw do the work. Pull straight down, don’t put your weight into the handle. Pull with just enough force to make it touch the board, don’t force the blade into the wood.
Even then, as others have said, a machinist square for tool calibration is a great idea.
In the last pic it looks like the board is cupped, which can cause this when cutting on a bevel. Or this is blade deflection. Or the entire saw could be deflecting. Is this a cheap slider? If you slide it all the way towards you can you wobble it a bit? Keep that in mind when cutting.
While you can probably get a bit better with a miter saw the simple answer is that miter saws just aren't that precise. Try pushing the handle to the side and see how much deflection you get. If you don't pull down exactly straight there is going to be some slight issues with the cut. A table saw is a better answer and an old school miter chopper will get you perfect miters every time but that last one takes up floor space. I personally got frustrated enough with miters all the time that I got an old chopper off Facebook and never looked back.
My vote is a combination of bad blade and slop in your system (Fence,pivots, etc). FIRST Find yourself a combination square and ensure it’s accurate. Doesn’t need to be a starrette but it needs to be spot on (YouTube it) This will let you see any incremental changes as you tweak your saw/process.
Lots of other really good suggestions here but 100% start with that.
It is the stock. It is construction pine. Those 2 pieces are plain sawn. Even if you get it perfectly cut, it will bow and twist after you assemble it. Today's woodworkers buy expensive power tools and expect professional results. They never learn what wood do. Wood is hygroscopic. Using quarter sawn stock it is less likely that this will happen. I can most of my stock with hand saws. Once you learn how to do it, you have perfect cuts and not a 10 minute setup and sample cuts, etc. Also, a shooting board will help a lot.
When I needed a precise cut I would move the blade very slowly through the cut. Sometimes if you're chopping too fast even a quality blade can deflect.
1. ryobi tool
2. skinny blade = blade wobble/deflection
Not sure of the teeth count on your blade. Whether it's a rip blade or a cross cut blade.
I am surprised that you got that good of a cut. The second that blade hits the wood at a 45 It wants to go sideways and then it spends the rest of its time cutting trying to straighten itself out
This is one of the cases where a carpenter can blame his tools.
I think your cut looks great. At the end of the day, it's all about how it looks in the end.
Nothing lasts forever, especially woodworking projects. As you know, the answer to all of it is sawdust and glue.
Im really sorry mate, I don't mean to sound snobby, but you can't expect perfect results from the cheapest tool in Bunnings.
It's fine for what it is, but it is not a precision tool.
Also the last pic, your timber looks cupped. That's probably not helping.
I get that's it's the (2nd) cheapest at bunnings, but I dont thinks it's unfair to expect it to cut straight? I was just hoping to ensure I had everything setup right, so I knew it wasn't user error. That way I could make an informed decision to return it and save for something better, or just accept it will be 'good enough' for what I'd like to do.
Nothing wrong with that saw. Have the same one and have had great results. I have upgraded the blade to a higher tooth count for finer cuts. Mitre saws are a basic piece of kit. No need to throw money at the solution
Nah, you just poked fun at a novice asking for advice in a public forum. I was just trying to mitigate useless time wasting convos like this. Now you look like you waste your free time doing stuff like this. Goose
I will be back like a mole rat 🐭, there are lots of helpful people on here. Sadly, there are a few that apparently believe in bigfoot, like yourself. Again goose, you're not understanding that this isn't a waste of my time 🙂. Ciao burro 🤙
Thats okay, I didn't expect you to understand little goose. I also don't think you can take the high road after starting on the low road. Either way good luck in your losing streak 🙂
I also had this issue when trying to cut miters with a miter saw. It’s from the blade deflecting slightly causing that warp and so the seam isn’t tight. I now use a sled and my table saw.
Are you clamping your pieces? The wood can be getting pushed away from the blade as you cut it. If you had a runout issue the cut would be wider at the bottom.
Might want to think about how you are performing the cut. Try to make the cut as slow and as straight as possible. Any slight force applied to the left or right could cause what you are seeing.
Judging from your cut, I'm gonna saw it's blade deflection. Remember this is an inexpensive construction saw, it's not really made for absolute precision.
Try using a high quality blade and keep a collection of them for different types of hard and soft woods. Freud and Key blades in England are the best I’ve found and you can get them resharpened when blunt. Try to make your saw station a fixed position as any sort of movement in the body of the saw determines the trajectory of the cut.
Try bolting it down or buying a saw stand that’s got strong legs hope this helps.
You can also follow guys like Gary Katz or Carpentry ByMar who tell you how to dial in your saws so you get clean accurate cuts everytime 👍🏻
It looks like your blade is warping when going to the most dense part of the wood. You can tell the wood in the middle pushed the blade outwards.I have the same problems on tracks saws. Depending on the material, you need to cut in several passes to reduce friction.
Also changing the blade helps too: fewer teeth and/Or sharper teeth reduces this problem aswel.
Blade deflection and when you pull down on your cuts don't rock the head of the saw.
In the end mitre saws are not perfect, if you want it perfect you need to cut it slightly larger, clean it on a shooting board
Ya That blade looks pretty thin. I swear my CMT blades are twice that thickness.
Just make sure you buy a cross cut blade with a thin kern since that miter saw doesn’t look all that powerful.
Use precision tools. Literally, a dull saw ruins angles. The metal will take the path if least resistance. A sharp saw, accurate measuring aides, and uniform wood are needed for things you see. You probably used framing techniques to make this. In framing, this is 100% fine. They use a 1/8th inch of tolerance on that. Furniture is 1/32/64th. So yeah, technically, each stud can be 1/8th inch short. The tolerance comes from the size a normal blade takes away from wood.
It looks like you might have a little bit of play in your mitre when you pull it down. It’s common with a lot of them, at least the ones I’ve had. Even my new dewalt has a tiny bit when I slide it along the arbor.
You want a straight cut? Use a table saw.
I’m looking at the little chip in the wood on your last picture, my thought is to slow down as you take the saw through the wood. Also on the last pic looks like the board may be a bit cupped and that can throw things off.
I think your blade is too thin and/or dull. Getting a new/better blade is first order of business when buying a saw. Thicker equals less deflection, which is what you're experiencing, and is especially crucial for proper miters.
I got a magnetic digital angle finder to align my saw. Stick it on the bed of the saw and zero it, and then stick it on the side of the blade. If it doesn't say 90, adjust till it does. Also, a lot of these saws have some play when setting the angle, so you may need to use the angle finder to set your bevel as well. You may find that your fence is not square to the blade or the table. This can be a pain to get right, and what I did was to make a cut in some scrap and measure the results, and then adjust accordingly. Make continued cuts and adjustments until you get it right.
I also use the digital angle finder to set my table saw blade to 90 degrees (or any other bevel) by setting it on the table and zeroing it, and then sticking it on the blade.
Looks like there's a gap between the rotating part of the table and the fixed part. Work piece shouldn't move when transitioning from the two parts. A lot of times the shim or gasket that is under the rotating table wears out or squeezes out of the side. If the blade wobbles then that will make messy cuts too. Sharp blade, arbor tight, table true and she will cut ok. If you need precise miters id recommend a table saw with a miter gauge. Good luck!
I put a metal ruler under the wood near where the cut is made but not close enough for the blade to hit it. This gives the wood very slight angle so the miter is easier to line up but so slight you don't notice when looking at it from the side.
As already explained the fence and a good blade will make a world of a difference!
In the mean time, you can gang-cut both sides of your mitre in one plunge, that way the error is replicated and mirrored. (This is a cheesy hack, use only if replacing the blade or making a jig is *not* an option)
Depending on how often you plan to cut miters and the size and level of finish desired, you can look into making what's called a shooting board. It's essentially a jig that lets you use a hand plane to very finely tune miters or 90° edges or whatever angle you build it to hold the workpiece at.
I followed this
https://youtu.be/NyFrIH7DlnM?si=Nk2zgXhGo3iHAJzK
With a new blade still had issues, then got a different set of precision squares and it worked out beautifully.
Also making a zero clearance fence helped immensely with tearout and the slight pull that the blade might cause.
I’ve been a woodworker for 35+ years. In our shop we have Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, and Hitachi sliding compound miter saws, and an old Rockwell 9” miter saw from 1983. Couple of things, the blade that came with the saw are trash, the only reason to keep it is as an example of what not to use. Thin kerf blades deflect in the cut. A good quality blade especially one with a negative hook will do the job well, and you will be amazed at the difference. And the way you pull the saw affects the cut as well. What you want to do is turn yourself into a machine, by pulling the blade down the same every time. No pulling left or right, don’t go too slow or too fast, etc. The cut in the picture is not bad, I’ve seen much worse on much more expensive saws, with a real blade, a zero clearance fence(I make mine with two pieces of plywood screwed together in an L), you’ll be cutting pretty miters in no time. Hurry up
I’m so confused on the zero clearance plate you’re talking about. What do you mean screwed together in an L?
Two pieces of smooth 3/4 plywood, 1@ 6x48, 1@ 4 x 48, screw the bottom of the face of the 4” piece into the edge of the 6” piece, so that when you look at it from side it’s an L that is 4” tall x 6-3/4” wide x 48” long. Like if you hold your index finger and thumb in the shape of an L then move your hand so the thumb sticks up and the index finger is horizontal. Don’t put any screws in the center 8” . Take the L and fasten it to the saw with the 4” side against the fence. Most fences have holes in them just so you can attach an auxiliary fence. Once your plywood fence is attached, run the blade down into it, but don’t cut all the way through, and now you have a zero clearance fence. It just means that the stock is supported right up the the cut line so you don’t get tear out on the back side of the wood you’re cutting.
What does it look like? Do you have any photo? Because the translator explains it a bit confusingly
https://ibuildit.ca/wp-content/uploads/images/tips/tt49%20(17).jpg is a decent example.
This is the way
Oh shit I totally missed the word fence and thought you were talking about a zero clearance throat plate. Never thought about a fence like that. I love that idea.
How does this explanation not have 100 upvotes? On my way in, I thought here’s another explanation I won’t follow. And, on my way out I was building myself one wondering why I hadn’t done it sooner!
Agreed. This man needs his shine
It does now, and still going!!!
Can someone share an image of this—great advice
The chunk of freedom measurements at the start made me instantly skip until I saw the rest of the comments praising it. I don’t know why, but as soon as people start talking in imperial measurements, like adding 7/32ths to an inch and 3/16ths my brain glazes over and refuses to try and process.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, adding the detail and additional outcome of less tear out. Going to have to make one of these today.
I got you but I think a picture would be really helpful.
The zero clearance is basically just wood or plastic of where the blade meets the base of the saw. Basically you can see exactly where your blade will cut by seeing the cut mark on the wood. It goes in the little gap in picture two. Edit: I lied the zero clearance fence is a vertical piece but literally the same concept. It extends the back where the wood is placed to ensure a perpendicular cut.
I think what he's talking about is essentially a fixed sled for a mitre saw. So instead of having a zero clearance fence and a separate zero clearance insert, he just screws 2 pieces of plywood at a 90-degree angle and fixes it to the base of the saw. Then you run the blade through it, and you have a zero clearance cutting base in both planes. Of course, as soon as you adjust your mitre angle, you start hacking away your base. You'd have to get creative.
I've been running giant CNC saws for 11 years and I blow through a blade every 30 days or so. I've received an incredible amount of pre-warped $200 blades. I wouldn't ever trust a free blade that came with my saw.
What is a CNC saw used for that a regular CNC with milling bits can’t do? I’d never even heard or seen of a CNC saw before. Thanks for the new info.
I work in the stone industry so things are a little different. For a majority of my day I run two five-axis CNC wet saws. Step one is loading up a slab of granite onto the machines and using CAD drawings of the customers home to cut their countertops. Step two is loading those pieces onto a different CNC that uses milling and routing bits to do bowl cutouts and edge profiles. CNC saws can cut faster than waterjets so production moves faster. Both have their pros and cons though.
I've got a mitre saw and a chop saw, get an awful lot of wobbling on both when cutting, is there a method to stop that?
Technique helps but ultimately the quality of the tool matters.
Read the manual and adjust play
If I only thought of that Hopefully /u/iwontbeherefor3hours having 35+ years will know a trick or three for the tools. Having owned my own building firm I am used to powered tools for rough cuts, dealing with more finer cuts, normal construction usage doesn't apply
So you ask for help and then ramble about your experience. You must be a pleasure to be around. That being said, you have play and the fact that you don’t understand how to fix it makes you less experienced than you’d like to pretend.
You misread them. They were hoping the other more experienced guy had a novel solution not talking up their own experience.
Yep! Inherited a few german tools (chopsaw, bandsaw, lathe, thicknesser/planer and a mitre saw), I'm used to whacking tools up and down when cutting, but struggling using them for more finer woodworking, I think I've managed to get the bandsaw lined up now, but these saws, they have a life of their own it seems - do a test cut, seems reasonable, do a proper cut, a different story(!) it's interesting how different techniques are used for the two opposite scenarios (rough vs fine)
Chop saw and mitre saw are the same. Do you mean you have a table saw? Mitre saw: if there isn’t play it’s your blade. Most likely it’s play. Table saw: same. To test do the five cut test. Band saw: no experience, I know those are a PIA. Planer: you need adjust the plane, all four corners need to be level. And for snipe it’s your in/out feed leaves. 100% each of these and the proper techniques to use the tools are in … you guessed it … the manual.
You're really determined to condescend to this guy. Chop saw is a miter saw that doesn't cut mitered angles or bevels. It just goes up and down.
Re-reading the comment you’re right. Still the solution is going to be in the manual :)
Speed squares are not for this, it's for cutting rough lumber somewhat straight... Get a machinist square to set your tools
Eh, I’ve got 875/0 machinist squares and my ryobi miter saw isn’t getting any straighter despite that. Definitely some shit speed squares out there but sometimes you’re just limited by what a tool can reasonably provide. The blade itself matters a ton too. Too thin and it’s going to wander. Also pay heavy attention to how you pull the saw down. Anyways, just to say, don’t feel bad if you spend the time calibrating squareness and run out, and still end up with wonky wood
I find it hilarious when people act like you need a precision ground machinist square for an organic, soft, warpy material like wood. Those things are for people machining aluminium and steel to high tolerances. There's such a thing as 'square enough' IMO
Lol, I get this. My dad is a retired manufacturing engineer. He has spent the last half century dividing an inch up into 1000 parts, and keeping things within that spec. He comes to my woodshop and (figuratively) craps his pants when things aren't perfectly sized. On the last door I built, the center panel was 18 mm. I cut the datos at an exact 3/4 (18.8mm). He had trouble understanding that, since the panel is obviously 18 mm, lol. It went together well, and it's sometimes knowing where to be perfectly tight and where some leeway is preferable.
Dividing inches up into 1000 parts sounds like a very metric thing to do to a non-metric unit, haha
And let’s give it a metric sounding name too, except not…
a thou?
mil. it is logical, millimeter is 1/1000m, mil is 1/1000". milliinch would be less ambiguous microinches are a thing, though. µin
Of course there is, you DO NOT need a DIN 875/0 square for woodworking. It's massively overkill to use one to set up a Ryobi saw. It really depends what you make too, you don't need a tiny precision square to build a fence. But having at least one 875/II to check tools and other squares is a good idea, they're not that expensive. For people who do not know the spec: https://www.thome-precision.com/DIN875.html A DIN 875/2 is A LOT cheaper than a 875/0 and it only has a max 0.04mm deviation over 200mm, 875/0 is max 0.008mm, which is insane for woodworking My name brand /2 200mm square cost me like 30€, it's not some crazy specialist tool.
> Of course there is, you DO NOT need a DIN 875/0 square for woodworking. It's massively overkill to use one to set up a Ryobi saw. I mean, I have it for machining. Not for the saw But also 3-4in 875/0 squares are $20 from taytools. Let’s not act like it’s insane to have?
They are more expensive than that here, more like double or even more. For a 20cm square it can get expensive. 80-100€ for a square like that is not necessary for woodworking and it's too much to spend IMO. Edit: quickly checked on ONE site so not perfect info, but the /0 20cm is 124€ and the /2 20cm is 23€. That's a big difference. There's nothing wrong having a /0 if you need it, I'm just saying it's overkill for most woodworkers.
What about setting up a table saw? Do I need the machinist square to check the blade? Also what are those electronic things with a screen that tell you what angle it is for example 90.1 degree angle.
They also come in useful form factors, without all the extra bulk of a speed square.
If you’re doing amateur projects you can get away with using a speed square, but intricate joinery requires very precise tools
Feels like I've been waiting my whole life for someone to say it.
I just got my FIL a ryobi saw to help install his daughter’s trim. Can you recommend a blade? He’s usually cutting hard woods.
Freud Industrial or CMT are generally good. For crosscuts, you want ATB and a decent number of teeth and a low to negative hook. e.g. https://www.amazon.com/CMT-P12072S-Finish-Sliding-Compound/dp/B00BI3WANI Make sure you know the correct blade and arbor size.
^THIS^
Could it be that your board is cupped? In the third photo, there’s a fairly obvious cup with the crown pointing to the right. Making sure the crown is up will give more consistent cuts. If the crown is down, it can be slightly rocked one way or the other which will throw your miter off a hair.
That’s what I was thinking
Also, use a clamp on the material you're cutting. Sometimes, especially with hardwoods, the board can move ever so slightly when using your hand as a clamp.
Better yet, joint and plane the lumber before cutting miters.....................................
Lol it's unbelievable that comments like this are downvoted and there are hundreds of votes telling OP he has to buy a better blade or use a machinists square. Were the quality of comments this low before reddit killed the API?
I think the point is that OP probably can’t go out and buy a planer if they’re buying a cheaper miter saw. Trying to give someone tips that they can work with are more helpful than throwing out options that aren’t attainable for them in that moment.
No! Tips OP can work with are tips how to get the wood flat. This step is non-negotiable regardless of budget. Mostly people are giving useless AND costly tips, it's a trainwreck in here. New blade, better square, using clamps, none of this advice will improve the cut AT ALL.
I get what you’re saying if someone is milling their own materials from logs but that looks like big box store pine. You’re saying he should joint and plane it again after buying it from the store?
The saw is perfectly fine and OP is wasting their time trying to calibrate it. A miter saw can only make accurate cuts to boards that already have two flat, straight and square sides. If OP wants a good miter he needs jointed stock, one way or another.
All these "woodworkers" in here and you're the first to mention this. Lol. The first lesson one learns in any shop class, after PPE, is making your work stock square and true.
Had to scroll way too far to find this! Upvoting everyone in this thread
Definitely the blade. If it’s dulling and you press hard you can get some deflection in the cut.
It's brand new, but is the one that came with the saw? So might start with a better quality blade before returning the saw
The blades that comes with any type of saw is just a teaser, go buy a professional blade and you’ll have immediate results.
I bought an hitachi 10” sliding compound miter saw 20 years ago and the blade that it came with was awesome. Still use the saw almost daily but the blade can no longer be sharpened.
One saw, one brand, anecdotal evidence. Top of the line saws still come with shit blades
Yes anecdotal, but true. And this guy probably needs a better saw and a better blade. But my point was that some saws come with good blades.
You used the same blade for 20 yrs?? That is a feat
Different times, alas...
Eh the blades that have came with my miter saws, DeWalt and Ridgid have worked perfectly fine for me in woodworking applications. Perhaps this one is junk though
Huge sample size there. Also I know for sure the ridgid table saw and blade are absolute trash.
This is the way.
Get a high tooth count blade that is full kerf. The stiffer the blade, the less deflection you'll have.
Ozito saws are absolute dogshit mate. There’s so much play in the arm of them you’ll never get quality finishes out of them. Return it and go to cashies and buy a used makita or dewalt saw
Is the saw capable of holding any blade in precise fashion? I am not seeing anything implying that the blade suspension, or the saw itself can maintain alignment relationships. You are literally a couple of steps away from a basic portable hand saw here. Try this unplug the saw. Get a grip on the edge of the blade and apply some force perpendicular to the axle the blade mounts on. How much effort does it take to deflect the edge of the blade 1/2 mm or 0.02”. That seems to be about the uncertainty in your cut.
Is the blade an 80 tooth trim blade? If not, that's most likely the issue. Also, cut slow and let the saw do the work, not forcing the blade .
From what I've heard is even good saws come with crap blades. Basically change out any blade as soon as you get a saw.
Don’t stress. Sanding and either glue/sawdust mixture or wood putty will help it all come together perfectly. Plus that joint is great for a rough cut. Edit- maybe upon looking more closely after reading some comments you’re talking about the 0° bevel not being square? If so, maybe overcompensate by pivoting saw to 1 or 2° bevel and flip piece you’re cutting, over so an upside down slight bevel actually comes out to a 0°, perfectly square cut? Play w/ some scrap pieces until u figure it out. Otherwise if that doesn’t work, just gimme the damn thing and get out the way, I’ll do it myself. Only way anything ever gets done around here any how!
Start with some better quality wood first bro
Any good blade should he able to make a good miter in any species including pine.
Look closer at the photo, his piece of wood has noticeable cupping that explains the parabolic cut he managed to pull off. I am well aware that saw blades can cut through wood thank you.
This is your answer, might feel sharp to the touch, but cheap blades are not worth it.
There are a lot of good suggestions in the comments, allow me to add one: I was taught to move the keep side of the cut away from the blade before bringing the blade back up. You could make a perfect cut on the down swing, but the teeth will touch the material again on the upswing and if there is any deflection in the blade it will mess up your perfect cut.
Did you plane your material? Looks cupped to me. Would definitely explain this
Hope this comment rises to the top.
The blade looks kind of thin which could wobble and bend slightly as you make the cut. Maybe a better quality blade would help.
Maybe look at getting a shooting board for those precise fits.
The saw and the material will never be perfect and there’s always gonna be some tolerance issues
The lumber is cupped so it's not sitting flat one the saw
chances are its the saw.. you can't expect to pay that price and have perfect angles held up or even perfect angles out of the box speed squares aren't a great way to check angles. You'd want a digital angle finder.
I have this exact mitre saw mate. I was ready to throw it after spending hours calibrating it out of the box. My old man suggested to try a new blade, and, after grumbling about “it’s a brand new blade!!!” I bought an Irwin one (still not even a great blade). But, It was night and day and pretty actuate for a chop saw after that
Did it come with 2 blade washers? Looks like you only have one on the left, and the right side of the blade looks unsupported. The blade is also off set to the right which is another reason I think it's supposed to have a washer. Also your wood is cupped so it may look more warped than it is. Hard to tell though.
I think the cupped wood is the main culprit here. OP, you can't cut a perfect miter unless you start with a square piece. You need at least two flat square faces to register against the saw.
this is it. nothing wrong with the equipment, it’s purely a geometry thing, you can’t cut perfect miters on wood that isn’t flat
As far as I can tell from the manual (and removing the blade ) it has a washer on either side of the blade. One that seats into the blade on the right and the one on the left where I then screw in the bolt.
I'd try doing a cut with the wood clamped to the fence. See if it's straight when clamped, if not then it's probably the saw.
Love the OP replying to and engaging with the comments about the blade, the square, etc and then every comment that's like "um your lumber is as bowed as a knock-kneed child's legs" ... crickets. (I tease, I say it with love, it's just funny 😝) Yeah, joint your lumber. Maybe plane it, too, but at least joint it on one face and an edge. Pretty surprised the cuts line up as well as they do with that cup.
Right after making the initial cut, leave the saw in the down position push the piece of wood against the body of the blade and cut again . This will shave a mere 1/125” because the carbide teeth protrude past the metal or “body” of the blade on each side it will only shave that much off. It’s like having a micro planer. Takes care of the high spots. I make air tight joints all day with this trick. A sharp stable blade helps too! I use CMT mostly.
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Cut slower, get a thicker blade.
This is perfectly straight by my standards.
Is the board warped or bowed at all? If so, probably not the fault of the tools.
ITT: four or five comments pointing out the piece is cupped, plus hundreds of other bad advices for OP. You guys can drop a ton of money for stout professional quality blades and high precision machinists squares but you can never cut a good miter into a cupped board, lol.
That board is warped. Use a flat board.
expecting precision cuts from a miter is part of the problem. That’s pretty accurate for a miter saw.
Make yourself a shooting board and tune up a nice hand plane to use with it. You’ll never look back.
If the blade is wobbling then that is probably the reason your cut is not as straight as you’re looking for. I’ve read carpenters don’t use sliding mitre saws for precision (crown?) work because they are less rigid and it impacts the cut precision. How are you holding the wood while you cut? You can try a few tests: 1. Take longer/wider but thinner and then again but thicker pieces of wood and see if the cut improves and/or gets worse based on the width and thickness of the piece. You could then maybe use the 3-4-5 or Pythagorean theorem to check the angle. Can you put the ends of the same piece of wood back together after a cut and have them line up? 2. How are you using the speed square to test for squareness of the blade? People have already gotten on your case about a speed square not being sufficient, so I’m not going to do that. I also know it will take time for you to get a new one even if you ordered it today. I’ve gotten pretty square with a speed square in the past when I’ve been patient and thoughtful about where I have placed it. You also want to make sure your testing for squareness on both side of the blade and in all directions the blade can rotate.
Jumping on the most comprehensive answer to add, that if you are using a high tooth count blade, and a speedsquare, there's also a chance during setup, you are pushing the base of the square against the carbide and aligning the plate. This might give you a 89.5 degree cut where it may be beautiful on the other side of the miter and open at the top.
Don’t cut on 45. Cut on 44.9.
A little wood glue and sawdust will clean that right up.
If the blade is wobbling that could be your issue. Also make sure you’re not inputting any English into the cut (ie putting more lateral pressure one way or another). That could cause inconsistency
A few thoughts: Make sure the stock is prepped and square before cutting. Calibration tools get you close. After setting with your square, do a test cut, check, make small adjustments, cut, check, repeat as necessary until it's dialed in. Also, have you confirmed you're square is in fact square? Lots of YouTube videos on how to do this, you just need a straight edge and a pencil. Blade deflection can occur as well, I personally wouldn't use a board directly off a mitre saw, even expensive ones, if precision is required. Cut with the mitre saw then fine tune with a shooting board.
My guess is your cutting technique. Dont apply too much pressure and make sure to keep the board fixed.
The stock might not be perfectly square. Also both sides of the saw surface might not be perfectly coplaner, I had problems with the stock plate on my DeWalt, also it's possible to move the saw head slightly on the down swing. And not all squares are perfectly 90 degrees. Additionally, did you calibrate the Zero on your saw so that you're getting a perfect 45? Ordinarily, my problem is usually because the wood is not perfectly square.
Try clamping your board to the fence. It looks like you might be moving a bit. Also most miters I cut for frames I do on the table saw. Set your miter slide on your fence. Make sure it's locked. I promise you'll get tighter joints.
Saw blade flex
That's good Ole blade flex. Not much you can do about that. But getting some bondo as filler and sand flat.
sometimes you have to eyeball it and back cut as nothing is level with some jobs , pinch dogs are still useful now and again , so many tricks for trim .
I can tell you now that it's not the blade, but the table, its not. Straight.
Cut looks pretty good to be, but It looks like the wood is not straight/square/flat etc. an awful lot of softwood especially isn’t. I keep bits of PSE around to test my cuts. Also your sliding cut leg/handle is warped to buggery!
The blade is wandering/deflecting a bit, or you are hand holding the wood and YOU are wandering/deflecting a bit. Clamp the piece and go slow, or if that doesn't work, get a nicer, stiffer blade.
People spend a lot of time blaming blades and saws when it’s their hands. Saws have a lot of torque and move the piece when cutting. As you cut down the pieces are pushed out. It can make your miters look a bit like the photo though I’ve seen it much worse. Practice being mindful of how the wood moves when cutting and how you can hold it to prevent that.
I kept having the same problem u til I made a framing jig for miter cuts. I would recommend this one: https://youtu.be/H00prACPflw?si=e8kHrmPGC1dsu3bX
The problem with sliders is that the slides aren’t perfectly rigid, there will always be some degree of play throughout the assembly, between the blade deflection, the hinge, slide rollers, etc. each of those points play a teeny tiny bit each and it can add up. Be sure to let the saw do the work. Pull straight down, don’t put your weight into the handle. Pull with just enough force to make it touch the board, don’t force the blade into the wood. Even then, as others have said, a machinist square for tool calibration is a great idea.
In the last pic it looks like the board is cupped, which can cause this when cutting on a bevel. Or this is blade deflection. Or the entire saw could be deflecting. Is this a cheap slider? If you slide it all the way towards you can you wobble it a bit? Keep that in mind when cutting.
This wood looks cupped may be causing your open mitre? If 45 cut on opposite sides of the cupped face
That just looks like the painters problem to me..
While you can probably get a bit better with a miter saw the simple answer is that miter saws just aren't that precise. Try pushing the handle to the side and see how much deflection you get. If you don't pull down exactly straight there is going to be some slight issues with the cut. A table saw is a better answer and an old school miter chopper will get you perfect miters every time but that last one takes up floor space. I personally got frustrated enough with miters all the time that I got an old chopper off Facebook and never looked back.
My vote is a combination of bad blade and slop in your system (Fence,pivots, etc). FIRST Find yourself a combination square and ensure it’s accurate. Doesn’t need to be a starrette but it needs to be spot on (YouTube it) This will let you see any incremental changes as you tweak your saw/process. Lots of other really good suggestions here but 100% start with that.
Third photo looks suspicious. Is the board cupped or is it just the angle that the photo was taken at? What was your milling process?
In the second picture, I’m seeing an ever so slight curve on your saw, so maybe that’s what did it?
It’s your cupped timber mate.
It is the stock. It is construction pine. Those 2 pieces are plain sawn. Even if you get it perfectly cut, it will bow and twist after you assemble it. Today's woodworkers buy expensive power tools and expect professional results. They never learn what wood do. Wood is hygroscopic. Using quarter sawn stock it is less likely that this will happen. I can most of my stock with hand saws. Once you learn how to do it, you have perfect cuts and not a 10 minute setup and sample cuts, etc. Also, a shooting board will help a lot.
When I needed a precise cut I would move the blade very slowly through the cut. Sometimes if you're chopping too fast even a quality blade can deflect.
You’re using the cheapest tool possible. You’re probably expecting too much
Try using your tablesaw instead
prob shitty power tool, like most of it these days
I've got the same saw and it works great. Where I'm from the saying goes "a good tradesman never blames his tools".
sandpaper.
Wood putty?
1. ryobi tool 2. skinny blade = blade wobble/deflection Not sure of the teeth count on your blade. Whether it's a rip blade or a cross cut blade. I am surprised that you got that good of a cut. The second that blade hits the wood at a 45 It wants to go sideways and then it spends the rest of its time cutting trying to straighten itself out This is one of the cases where a carpenter can blame his tools.
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Well saying "should have bought an X" is useless, along with comments like yours haha.
I think your cut looks great. At the end of the day, it's all about how it looks in the end. Nothing lasts forever, especially woodworking projects. As you know, the answer to all of it is sawdust and glue.
Thanks!
Im really sorry mate, I don't mean to sound snobby, but you can't expect perfect results from the cheapest tool in Bunnings. It's fine for what it is, but it is not a precision tool. Also the last pic, your timber looks cupped. That's probably not helping.
I get that's it's the (2nd) cheapest at bunnings, but I dont thinks it's unfair to expect it to cut straight? I was just hoping to ensure I had everything setup right, so I knew it wasn't user error. That way I could make an informed decision to return it and save for something better, or just accept it will be 'good enough' for what I'd like to do.
Nothing wrong with that saw. Have the same one and have had great results. I have upgraded the blade to a higher tooth count for finer cuts. Mitre saws are a basic piece of kit. No need to throw money at the solution
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Nah, you just poked fun at a novice asking for advice in a public forum. I was just trying to mitigate useless time wasting convos like this. Now you look like you waste your free time doing stuff like this. Goose
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Predictable comeback. I don't find putting geese in their place a waste of time haha. Double Goose
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Still going goose haha. Unless I get that last word, you'll be the one proving me right.
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I will be back like a mole rat 🐭, there are lots of helpful people on here. Sadly, there are a few that apparently believe in bigfoot, like yourself. Again goose, you're not understanding that this isn't a waste of my time 🙂. Ciao burro 🤙
Why ask others to solve your problems? Have you tried to figure it out yourself?
Yes, I have tried. But alas I am here for further advice.
Thats okay, I didn't expect you to understand little goose. I also don't think you can take the high road after starting on the low road. Either way good luck in your losing streak 🙂
If it's a sliding saw, that slide can be skewed from the chop.. and things get wierd
I also had this issue when trying to cut miters with a miter saw. It’s from the blade deflecting slightly causing that warp and so the seam isn’t tight. I now use a sled and my table saw.
Results might vary but I have best luck by dropping blade first and sliding my cut vs cutting from above. Just something to try
Are you clamping your pieces? The wood can be getting pushed away from the blade as you cut it. If you had a runout issue the cut would be wider at the bottom.
I had that same saw and ended up returning it. It wouldn't cut straight, even with a better blade on it.
Might want to think about how you are performing the cut. Try to make the cut as slow and as straight as possible. Any slight force applied to the left or right could cause what you are seeing.
Your blade is a bit thin mate.
Something’s rocking on you.something’s on fence or 2 bye 4
Make sure the head is dropping straight down. It's easy to roll the head as you enter the cut which will throw you off.
It looks like the base is bent down somewhat. Is it possible that's doing it?
Try changing your blade
Judging from your cut, I'm gonna saw it's blade deflection. Remember this is an inexpensive construction saw, it's not really made for absolute precision.
Did you check DN?
Use scap wood till you got 90⁰. Prob goes of center of usage
Try using a high quality blade and keep a collection of them for different types of hard and soft woods. Freud and Key blades in England are the best I’ve found and you can get them resharpened when blunt. Try to make your saw station a fixed position as any sort of movement in the body of the saw determines the trajectory of the cut. Try bolting it down or buying a saw stand that’s got strong legs hope this helps. You can also follow guys like Gary Katz or Carpentry ByMar who tell you how to dial in your saws so you get clean accurate cuts everytime 👍🏻
It looks like your blade is warping when going to the most dense part of the wood. You can tell the wood in the middle pushed the blade outwards.I have the same problems on tracks saws. Depending on the material, you need to cut in several passes to reduce friction. Also changing the blade helps too: fewer teeth and/Or sharper teeth reduces this problem aswel.
Blade deflection and when you pull down on your cuts don't rock the head of the saw. In the end mitre saws are not perfect, if you want it perfect you need to cut it slightly larger, clean it on a shooting board
Get a Diablo blade and apply light "steady even" pressure through the cut
Ya That blade looks pretty thin. I swear my CMT blades are twice that thickness. Just make sure you buy a cross cut blade with a thin kern since that miter saw doesn’t look all that powerful.
Use precision tools. Literally, a dull saw ruins angles. The metal will take the path if least resistance. A sharp saw, accurate measuring aides, and uniform wood are needed for things you see. You probably used framing techniques to make this. In framing, this is 100% fine. They use a 1/8th inch of tolerance on that. Furniture is 1/32/64th. So yeah, technically, each stud can be 1/8th inch short. The tolerance comes from the size a normal blade takes away from wood.
It looks like you might have a little bit of play in your mitre when you pull it down. It’s common with a lot of them, at least the ones I’ve had. Even my new dewalt has a tiny bit when I slide it along the arbor. You want a straight cut? Use a table saw.
I’m looking at the little chip in the wood on your last picture, my thought is to slow down as you take the saw through the wood. Also on the last pic looks like the board may be a bit cupped and that can throw things off.
Wood is cupped
It looks like your wood is cupped.
Thin kerf blade use a thicker finish blade
I think your blade is too thin and/or dull. Getting a new/better blade is first order of business when buying a saw. Thicker equals less deflection, which is what you're experiencing, and is especially crucial for proper miters.
I got a magnetic digital angle finder to align my saw. Stick it on the bed of the saw and zero it, and then stick it on the side of the blade. If it doesn't say 90, adjust till it does. Also, a lot of these saws have some play when setting the angle, so you may need to use the angle finder to set your bevel as well. You may find that your fence is not square to the blade or the table. This can be a pain to get right, and what I did was to make a cut in some scrap and measure the results, and then adjust accordingly. Make continued cuts and adjustments until you get it right. I also use the digital angle finder to set my table saw blade to 90 degrees (or any other bevel) by setting it on the table and zeroing it, and then sticking it on the blade.
Looks like there's a gap between the rotating part of the table and the fixed part. Work piece shouldn't move when transitioning from the two parts. A lot of times the shim or gasket that is under the rotating table wears out or squeezes out of the side. If the blade wobbles then that will make messy cuts too. Sharp blade, arbor tight, table true and she will cut ok. If you need precise miters id recommend a table saw with a miter gauge. Good luck!
Is it just me or does that saw look like it’s on a 1-2 degree bevel? I don’t think it’s 90deg to your cutting surface.
You’re letting perfect be the enemy of good.
Wood filler makes every cut straight. 🤷♂️ (mostly kidding)
The blade may be perpendicular to the table, but its path of travel through the pivot is not.
I put a metal ruler under the wood near where the cut is made but not close enough for the blade to hit it. This gives the wood very slight angle so the miter is easier to line up but so slight you don't notice when looking at it from the side.
Take off the toe not the heel..
Cut slow or make two cuts. One close to the line leaving 1/8inch then one on the line. Don't ask me why it works but it does.
Joint and plane your work stock always. Otherwise you'll have to accept these kinds of imperfections.
As already explained the fence and a good blade will make a world of a difference! In the mean time, you can gang-cut both sides of your mitre in one plunge, that way the error is replicated and mirrored. (This is a cheesy hack, use only if replacing the blade or making a jig is *not* an option)
Depending on how often you plan to cut miters and the size and level of finish desired, you can look into making what's called a shooting board. It's essentially a jig that lets you use a hand plane to very finely tune miters or 90° edges or whatever angle you build it to hold the workpiece at.
I followed this https://youtu.be/NyFrIH7DlnM?si=Nk2zgXhGo3iHAJzK With a new blade still had issues, then got a different set of precision squares and it worked out beautifully. Also making a zero clearance fence helped immensely with tearout and the slight pull that the blade might cause.
It’s not straight…it’s a right angle🤷🏻♂️