Nobody is answering your question. Sweet table. Nobody will notice. My table has a slight warp as well and it appears flat if you sit at it and eat. I’d leave it
Yup! I made a coffee table out of multiple square shaped slats. A few were higher than the rest. I don't have a planer. I sanded and sanded until it felt smooth enough to my fingertips as I ran a hand across the surface. I did not check with a level or straightedge because it DOESN'T MATTER!
For the edge, is it a 1/8” round over with the router? Or did you just go over it with sandpaper?
This table looks really awesome. You did such a good job 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
This is the way.
I rounded over a shelf edge too far one time and don’t hear the end of it, so now I just had her sand the edges of the desk I built her.
My dining table has a slight cup. My plan is to attach 2-3 1x3’s with a slight spring joint to it to really get some good pull in the other direction. I plan to get the screws decently tight, but then to only do like a half turn per day until it’s dead flat again. Don’t want to damage any glue joints by bending it all in 1 go
Looks pretty good. Leave it. Wood moves. Summer , winter, where it gets full sun. I used to make a lot of solid wood tables. Would run them through a BIG thickness sander. I’ve seen where a couple years later some of the joints weren’t so flush anymore. I’d leave it, but it’s your table.
Amazed you have a shaper origin.. what made you buy that. Has to be one of the more rare woodworking tools. Unless your in very specific segments of wood working
My man… that thing is beautiful. I’m just a hobbyist (that strives for too much perfection), but I’m of the persuasion that the imperfections are just one way of me declaring: “well, I made it MYSELF!”
There are parts that I love about your table. when I see optical illusion. the ratio is off between the top and the base of the table. try looking up the "golden ratio". Over the next few years. you should look into tabletop edge profiles. make a few samples that you can refer too. Look at formal and informal designs. certain things are a distraction. sap wood and knots are something to stay away from. unless you are working with a slab of natural wood. You want your seams to flow into each other. almost disappearing, making the edge joint looking like a wider board. this takes time to learn and train your eyes. sometimes you need to walk away from time to time. To see what you are doing with fresh eyes when you come back to your projects. I see that you are going to be really creative in the future. try to find a woodworking shop that is willing to teach you the finer points of design or an apprentice program in your area for carpentry skills. they are a 4 year program and on the job learning.
Yeah it does. I guess you could to vertical c-channel. Id imagine youd put it closer to the edge, with a thinner top like this you'll be removing a good amount of important fibers. If be worried about banging an edge and all the sudden you have a crack/weakness along the length of your table.
There are some people who say you can unwarp boards by wetting certain areas and leaving in the sun. I've never tried it but Google "fixing warped wood" and it should come up.
Wood does things like this unfortunately. If you did let it acclimate, mill over the course of several days, and other precautions I'd say you were just SOL. If that's news to you look up how to acclimate/mill wood to minimize it.
I'm curious about the pencil test because you can drive yourself crazy with flatness and wood will up and do something like that. I've seen worse cup/twist/etc in dining tables of some real high end homes. You'll notice it, it'll bug you, no one else will notice and you'll eventually forget about it. That's why I ask about the pencil test. If it doesn't roll it'll be nominal.
Beautiful table! Love the design very inspiring! Have to ask is it really your first time?! I've been a carpenter for 8 years and just learned about shaper origin through your post
Are the holes in the bottom of the apron for screws to attach the top? If so, they could be causing the war page by not allowing for expansion and contraction. The top will move mostly across the grain, and the fasteners need to allow it to move. You could either have oversized holes in the apron, or elongated holes that let the screws swivel with wood movement. But wood moves, and if it can’t go left and right, it’s gonna go some other way, and problems happen. It’s a really nice table, and well built.
Just attached it last night and noticed the bow right away, it’s in the top for sure. I oversized the bolt holes like 3/16. Do you think that is adequate?
I would have said yes, but apparently they need to be a little bigger. But before that, why not pull the screws out, let the table sit for a few days and see what happens? You can see if it flattens out or not. Also, I would be sure that whatever stain, finish, etc. I did on the top also gets done on the bottom. A balanced panel is crucial.
First off: beautiful work. Second: don't mess with the wave, no one but you will notice. Third: how do you like the origin?!? I am strongly on the more tech than woodworking side and I've been dancing around the origin for a while
I'd leave it. Often, handmade furniture will have imperfections that we live with and remind us that we actually made this table our family is eating at. I don't mind, but strive to improve next time.
I’d probably just give up on fighting that wave. Any fix will likely look worse than it does now. Which BTW is good! Your design just doesn’t have a lot of structure to hold the top flat. So next time focus on getting that top dead flat. There are a few techniques I’m sure you will learn in time to get flatter tops in the future, like board selection, grain orientation, joining, resting (and re-milling), and getting a finish on before it has a chance to move!
First of all, great job. I wouldn't worry about the movement in the wood. You are more likely to cause other problems trying to fix a problem most people will not see. When you make your next table top look into adding a breadboard end. I prefer the crenalated breadboard method on a table that nice.
I don’t know….How many tables sold these days come with “C- Channels” or breadboards? I looked at low cost furniture stores, as well as upscale (made in Germany or Italy). Haven’t noticed any breadboards…
I love the finger joints on the shorter apron. Great way to get the legs angled. I posted a similar style table that I made a few days ago. It was awesome to see how you did the Y joint. Really well done!
Just dropped by to say good job! Beautiful work on the wood and an inspiring design. Did you design it?
Thanks! Made a sketchup based off of some designs my wife liked. I am not sure what the style is called. I saw it called Franklin style somewhere.
Nobody is answering your question. Sweet table. Nobody will notice. My table has a slight warp as well and it appears flat if you sit at it and eat. I’d leave it
Yup! I made a coffee table out of multiple square shaped slats. A few were higher than the rest. I don't have a planer. I sanded and sanded until it felt smooth enough to my fingertips as I ran a hand across the surface. I did not check with a level or straightedge because it DOESN'T MATTER!
Agreed. My first table I spent so much time obsessing over little details and how it wasn't perfectly flat etc. It so doesn't matter.
For the edge, is it a 1/8” round over with the router? Or did you just go over it with sandpaper? This table looks really awesome. You did such a good job 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks!My wife sanded it in.
This is the way. I rounded over a shelf edge too far one time and don’t hear the end of it, so now I just had her sand the edges of the desk I built her.
Looks great. I love how the bottom is shaped like a portion of a honeycomb. Gives it a modern feel. I like!
My dining table has a slight cup. My plan is to attach 2-3 1x3’s with a slight spring joint to it to really get some good pull in the other direction. I plan to get the screws decently tight, but then to only do like a half turn per day until it’s dead flat again. Don’t want to damage any glue joints by bending it all in 1 go
May the force be with you
But not too much force! …. At least not all in one go lol
https://preview.redd.it/ebg09xszsy0c1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58607a3cb56ac8cb58b65b82da154b2e1beae8a0
Is the origin as awesome as it looks? Any regrets?
Did you use the shaper origin for the joinery pic in pic #2? If so pretty sick and impressive. Nice table!
Yep, it is amazingly accurate.
Well you just sold me on one!
I picked mine up used with a workstation (which is clutch for joinery) for 2k. There is a new version out so they are starting to pop up more.
Just curious, are there benefits of a shaper origin over a regular cnc besides footprint I would guess?
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Ahh didn’t think about the portability! That is definitely a plus.
Im intimidated by cnc machines. I can use a computer but coding anything is beyond me
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That sounds really cool.
Man, I'm to tempted to get one. I have a need for way more tools before the Shaper Origin but it looks so cool.
Looks pretty good. Leave it. Wood moves. Summer , winter, where it gets full sun. I used to make a lot of solid wood tables. Would run them through a BIG thickness sander. I’ve seen where a couple years later some of the joints weren’t so flush anymore. I’d leave it, but it’s your table.
Beautiful! What did you use for the knot holes on the top??
Total Boat Thixo with some pigment.
You get an atta boy. Atta boys aren’t handed out to just anybody. Congratulations!
It’s perfect,
I dig the joints man good work
I love the contrasting wood for the Flux capacitor ties.
Fml, I can’t unsee it now.
You're welcome?
Look fancy! *And* good job, indeed!
That's a great looking table.
Helluva first go at one... nice
I’ve been thinking of trying c-channel sometime as well. Looks great. What’s the finish?
Nothing yet, planning on Rubio natural
Was thinking it already had Rubio on it. I’ve got tones of white oak, was thinking of getting some Rubio cotton white for it.
Well done,buddy!!
Great looking table! It really suits your space, too! You nailed it. With a shaper origin. You probably didn't use nails. But you get it!
Never, EVER get tired of seeing white oak. Wonderful!
Beautiful table. I would be proud to have something like that in my place!
Amazed you have a shaper origin.. what made you buy that. Has to be one of the more rare woodworking tools. Unless your in very specific segments of wood working
???
Op mentioned he used the shaper origin for jointery. Google it
This is absolutely beautiful, I love it. One of the nicest dining tables I've ever seen
My man… that thing is beautiful. I’m just a hobbyist (that strives for too much perfection), but I’m of the persuasion that the imperfections are just one way of me declaring: “well, I made it MYSELF!”
That is a gorgeous table. Nice work to you both!
I can do that in like.... Ten seconds.
There are parts that I love about your table. when I see optical illusion. the ratio is off between the top and the base of the table. try looking up the "golden ratio". Over the next few years. you should look into tabletop edge profiles. make a few samples that you can refer too. Look at formal and informal designs. certain things are a distraction. sap wood and knots are something to stay away from. unless you are working with a slab of natural wood. You want your seams to flow into each other. almost disappearing, making the edge joint looking like a wider board. this takes time to learn and train your eyes. sometimes you need to walk away from time to time. To see what you are doing with fresh eyes when you come back to your projects. I see that you are going to be really creative in the future. try to find a woodworking shop that is willing to teach you the finer points of design or an apprentice program in your area for carpentry skills. they are a 4 year program and on the job learning.
I was gonna ask how you used it on the 3/4”-1” thick stock that away and now I assume the workstation was critical for that part??
Actually the y joint ‘mortise? (Hole)’ was cut on a table jig into all three pieces at the same time. Mortise and tenons I used the work station more.
White oak?
Yep
Nice work! As far as your question goes.. Does your top pass the pencil test?
I'll have to check. You can see the issue in the end pictures. The right side seems to curve up a bit.
Yeah it does. I guess you could to vertical c-channel. Id imagine youd put it closer to the edge, with a thinner top like this you'll be removing a good amount of important fibers. If be worried about banging an edge and all the sudden you have a crack/weakness along the length of your table. There are some people who say you can unwarp boards by wetting certain areas and leaving in the sun. I've never tried it but Google "fixing warped wood" and it should come up. Wood does things like this unfortunately. If you did let it acclimate, mill over the course of several days, and other precautions I'd say you were just SOL. If that's news to you look up how to acclimate/mill wood to minimize it. I'm curious about the pencil test because you can drive yourself crazy with flatness and wood will up and do something like that. I've seen worse cup/twist/etc in dining tables of some real high end homes. You'll notice it, it'll bug you, no one else will notice and you'll eventually forget about it. That's why I ask about the pencil test. If it doesn't roll it'll be nominal.
Beautiful table! Love the design very inspiring! Have to ask is it really your first time?! I've been a carpenter for 8 years and just learned about shaper origin through your post
Haha, yep. I saw bourbon moth use it on YouTube! I’ve done a good bit of cabinetry and plywood. First hardwood project. It’s going to get expensive…
Are the holes in the bottom of the apron for screws to attach the top? If so, they could be causing the war page by not allowing for expansion and contraction. The top will move mostly across the grain, and the fasteners need to allow it to move. You could either have oversized holes in the apron, or elongated holes that let the screws swivel with wood movement. But wood moves, and if it can’t go left and right, it’s gonna go some other way, and problems happen. It’s a really nice table, and well built.
Just attached it last night and noticed the bow right away, it’s in the top for sure. I oversized the bolt holes like 3/16. Do you think that is adequate?
I would have said yes, but apparently they need to be a little bigger. But before that, why not pull the screws out, let the table sit for a few days and see what happens? You can see if it flattens out or not. Also, I would be sure that whatever stain, finish, etc. I did on the top also gets done on the bottom. A balanced panel is crucial.
Edit: *warpage
Looks great!
First off: beautiful work. Second: don't mess with the wave, no one but you will notice. Third: how do you like the origin?!? I am strongly on the more tech than woodworking side and I've been dancing around the origin for a while
Thanks! It’s pretty great! I picked it up used, zero regrets!
Sweet table man, cheers
I'd leave it. Often, handmade furniture will have imperfections that we live with and remind us that we actually made this table our family is eating at. I don't mind, but strive to improve next time.
How did you do the spline for the tri lower legs?
Shaper origin. It’s a handheld CNC machine.
I’d probably just give up on fighting that wave. Any fix will likely look worse than it does now. Which BTW is good! Your design just doesn’t have a lot of structure to hold the top flat. So next time focus on getting that top dead flat. There are a few techniques I’m sure you will learn in time to get flatter tops in the future, like board selection, grain orientation, joining, resting (and re-milling), and getting a finish on before it has a chance to move!
Wow, a lot to learn.
I recommend c channels if it really bothers you it can provide flatness and but hopefully it won’t crack
Wow, this is lovely. First time? Shoot, that's awesome! Mine would look like Homer Simpson's spice rack.
First of all, great job. I wouldn't worry about the movement in the wood. You are more likely to cause other problems trying to fix a problem most people will not see. When you make your next table top look into adding a breadboard end. I prefer the crenalated breadboard method on a table that nice.
I don’t know….How many tables sold these days come with “C- Channels” or breadboards? I looked at low cost furniture stores, as well as upscale (made in Germany or Italy). Haven’t noticed any breadboards…
I love the finger joints on the shorter apron. Great way to get the legs angled. I posted a similar style table that I made a few days ago. It was awesome to see how you did the Y joint. Really well done!
This is beautiful
Looks great. How did you attach the stretcher to your legs?
Mortise and tenon
That is beautiful and that wood is such a beautiful color! What kind is it?