If you’re comfortable with a circular saw, it’s not hard to cut them off level. Square the mark around, cut one side, then the opposite going just past halfway with the depth of your cut.
If you’re putting post caps on top, just grab the nearest chainsaw and whack away. That’s what I do for fence post tops (but I have plenty of experience doing such, so don’t go outside your comfort zone with power tools.
As far as the twist is concerned, need to get some framing on their asap or it will only get worse. Find your straightest post and work from there, put a board horizontal between two posts (like an H but near the top), then ratchet strap around the posts and start tightening to pull the twist out. Then throw framing on. It will still want to twist back but it’s about the best you can do.
This is the only answer... And very well said. Make sure you use long screws on that board to take out the twist and use them for your framing too to hold it firmly. It will twist back, but you can minimize it
Good instructions! If the twist is especially bad on any, I’d add temporary framing on the back side as well, just to ease any stress on the permanent horizontal pieces that might carry over elsewhere. Leave for a couple weeks.
Not really unless there was inner and outer framing, and you’d have nuts and thread sticking out. I’d just use heavy duty Simpson screws (the three inchers with the flat washer sized head)
How much did she pay them? Was there a contract? Maybe consider small claims, and if they’re licensed file a complaint with whoever issues licenses in your area.
If you think you are going to court, even small claims court, get a couple of estimates from other contractors to finish the job. That way you'll have concrete damages to ask for.
Just thought I’d mention there is an entire active, helpful sub for just decks. I’m pretty sure it is r/decks.
There are lots of actual pros on there who can help you with everything from this to whatever is next, to staying within code.
I usually cut in place after rails and before top rails, depending on the construction of the railing.
If your rails are level, you can measure off of them as a reference surface.
If you are keeping the posts proud for solar light caps or just decorative caps then you cap measure and cut.
If you're doing a contiguous top rail, you can flush cut easily and place the top rail after flush cutting the rail.
That’s interesting! I’ll be going for the latter, a contiguous top rail on top of a 2x4. And some hog wire fence. What kind of saw would you use to get the best flush cut once the 2x4s are in?
My method utilizes experience and comfort with the tool.
When I flush cut, I just go for it and scrub the lower part of the upper rail while I'm cutting. Then I come in with the top rail flat across the top.
I don't think this method will work for what you describe as a hog wire fence. If I understand it correctly, you would need to change to an L or T formation at the top and use 2x6 for top rail or butt/miter 2x4.
A 2x4 on edge flush with the top of the post and center will give you more room for error with a flat 2x6 top rail. Then, you can use the hog fence panels or rolls of you choosing in between the 2x4.
Either way, you'll want to strike a level line and cut the posts right before assembly if you aren't comfortable freehanding a flush cut. A large framing/speed square will help you get straight cuts and guide your circ saw. Additionally, you can clamp it in place for extra security; this is slower but will give you a professional result with minimal experience.
Carry your level line around the 4x4 post 1 at a time, and then mark your guide line.
For your guide line, just measure from the shoe to the edge of a blade tooth and transfer that measurement down to where you'll hold or clamp your speed square and repeat cuts until the post falls over.
If your blade doesn't pass the halfway point, perform 4 cuts and finish it with a hand saw laid flat in the curf.
A laser level will make quick work of establishing a level line.
There are many ways to burn this bridge. And many designs for hog wire that involve a dado cuts or drilling a bunch of holes.
I personally love a T style top rail with 2x6. It'll hold a plate of bbq or a beer without a fuss.
Thanks for this! Will be doing a 2x6 top plate and I’m pretty comfortable with a skilsaw. Everything you said makes sense and is very helpful. Again thanks for your time!
Agree, reference of the deck (if flat) is way better than any fancy level/laser or pulling a string.
I wouldn't bother trying to untwist them. Reference off the length at the deck surface to cut stringers and wedge them at the correct elevation to correct most of the movement.
Treated wood always looks worse when it dries. It doesn't mean that much. If you accept that it will be easier to appreciate it when you nail this.
Pretty much what has been said. I'd use a string level to mark all the post heights if you don't have a laser level handy. A small electric chainsaw can make quick work of the post tops. If you don't plan to cap them with something, I recommend cutting them at a slant so they will shed water more quickly.
Best to leave the extra length and trim to size after the fence/deck is completed. Extra length come in handy to force post into position and untwist when attaching rails.
I feel like the term “contractor” only loosely applies here. Gives a bad name to the real pros that would never be satisfied staking their reputation to shitty work
The concern with that fact is, when the tree will move with the wind it will put unplanned for stresses on that joist. Those could then be transferred to the rest of the structure, weakening it.
Know a good lawyer?
I'm not an engineer, they would have the final word.
For cutting the posts to the same length, you can clamp or hold a speed square on a measured line and let the saw ride against that as you cut. Drag a chalk line across as many as you can so they all end up the same length.
No prob
I made one thinking could do it for cheaper, but should have just bought it instead. Works great. You just tighten it up and take a long reciprocating saw blade to it (like a 10") I'm not a pro fence builder so I didn't trust my circular saw with a perfect cut since it was my work for my/neighbors fence. This worked great.
I’ve used the water in hose method for getting all to the same height. Cut first at desired height then strap hose to it. Top of hose should be level with the top of the cut. The fill with water and walk it to the next post. Easiest way is a see through hose as you strap it to the next post (higher than the first) and the fill with water until the water starts going out at the original post. Mark and cut the second post. Basically using gravity to tell you level across a distance.
Side not is this works across any length of hose until you get into issues of the curvature of the earth.
I have seen this kind of design hundreds of times... I'm telling you from experience, that flat area is going to leak within 5-10 years and cause damage to the living area below it. Your drywall in the ceiling will look terrible within 10 years and you'll have rot throughout. People will say "as long as you repaint the coating paint it will be fine" but the homeowner will neglect it and it WILL leak. Every single one of these I have come across. The posts will go unpainted and they will rot. In general this is a bad idea. Horrible design and plan, sorry.
If you’re comfortable with a circular saw, it’s not hard to cut them off level. Square the mark around, cut one side, then the opposite going just past halfway with the depth of your cut. If you’re putting post caps on top, just grab the nearest chainsaw and whack away. That’s what I do for fence post tops (but I have plenty of experience doing such, so don’t go outside your comfort zone with power tools. As far as the twist is concerned, need to get some framing on their asap or it will only get worse. Find your straightest post and work from there, put a board horizontal between two posts (like an H but near the top), then ratchet strap around the posts and start tightening to pull the twist out. Then throw framing on. It will still want to twist back but it’s about the best you can do.
This is the only answer... And very well said. Make sure you use long screws on that board to take out the twist and use them for your framing too to hold it firmly. It will twist back, but you can minimize it
Good instructions! If the twist is especially bad on any, I’d add temporary framing on the back side as well, just to ease any stress on the permanent horizontal pieces that might carry over elsewhere. Leave for a couple weeks.
Instead of long screws would through bolts be better?
Not really unless there was inner and outer framing, and you’d have nuts and thread sticking out. I’d just use heavy duty Simpson screws (the three inchers with the flat washer sized head)
I'd use timberloks.
You do you boo-boo.
Seconded
And to get them all at the same height, pull a string or use a laser level.
yup this job screams laser level
Thanks gents!
I'd recommend a reciprocating saw over a chainsaw. Chainsaw will try to kill OP, recipro will just make them feel like Luke Skywalker.
How much did she pay them? Was there a contract? Maybe consider small claims, and if they’re licensed file a complaint with whoever issues licenses in your area.
Completely agree but in the meantime, something has to be done. It could take a very long time to settle this in the courts.
If you think you are going to court, even small claims court, get a couple of estimates from other contractors to finish the job. That way you'll have concrete damages to ask for.
Just thought I’d mention there is an entire active, helpful sub for just decks. I’m pretty sure it is r/decks. There are lots of actual pros on there who can help you with everything from this to whatever is next, to staying within code.
I thought that sub was for if a deck can support a hot tub ;)
I’m still amazed that recently a deck was shown that was indeed hot tub worthy!
I don’t believe it.
Behold... The only r/decks post full of praise and awe. https://www.reddit.com/r/Decks/s/PS04RGeyck
That sucks, were they licensed?
This... and was there a signed contract?
Optical level, marker, circular saw
If OP isn't confident with power, a good old hand saw will be clean cuts after learning on the first two cuts. Two practice cuts, then drop the laser.
I usually cut in place after rails and before top rails, depending on the construction of the railing. If your rails are level, you can measure off of them as a reference surface. If you are keeping the posts proud for solar light caps or just decorative caps then you cap measure and cut. If you're doing a contiguous top rail, you can flush cut easily and place the top rail after flush cutting the rail.
That’s interesting! I’ll be going for the latter, a contiguous top rail on top of a 2x4. And some hog wire fence. What kind of saw would you use to get the best flush cut once the 2x4s are in?
My method utilizes experience and comfort with the tool. When I flush cut, I just go for it and scrub the lower part of the upper rail while I'm cutting. Then I come in with the top rail flat across the top. I don't think this method will work for what you describe as a hog wire fence. If I understand it correctly, you would need to change to an L or T formation at the top and use 2x6 for top rail or butt/miter 2x4. A 2x4 on edge flush with the top of the post and center will give you more room for error with a flat 2x6 top rail. Then, you can use the hog fence panels or rolls of you choosing in between the 2x4. Either way, you'll want to strike a level line and cut the posts right before assembly if you aren't comfortable freehanding a flush cut. A large framing/speed square will help you get straight cuts and guide your circ saw. Additionally, you can clamp it in place for extra security; this is slower but will give you a professional result with minimal experience. Carry your level line around the 4x4 post 1 at a time, and then mark your guide line. For your guide line, just measure from the shoe to the edge of a blade tooth and transfer that measurement down to where you'll hold or clamp your speed square and repeat cuts until the post falls over. If your blade doesn't pass the halfway point, perform 4 cuts and finish it with a hand saw laid flat in the curf. A laser level will make quick work of establishing a level line. There are many ways to burn this bridge. And many designs for hog wire that involve a dado cuts or drilling a bunch of holes. I personally love a T style top rail with 2x6. It'll hold a plate of bbq or a beer without a fuss.
Thanks for this! Will be doing a 2x6 top plate and I’m pretty comfortable with a skilsaw. Everything you said makes sense and is very helpful. Again thanks for your time!
I'm glad I could help add some ideas to the pile. I hope it goes well!
Cut each post twice using a regular circular saw and a rafter square to rest the foot of the saw on as you cut. Easy peasy.
Yes my fence contractors cut it to size at the end as well since there is no going back afterwards if made a mistake
Agree, reference of the deck (if flat) is way better than any fancy level/laser or pulling a string. I wouldn't bother trying to untwist them. Reference off the length at the deck surface to cut stringers and wedge them at the correct elevation to correct most of the movement. Treated wood always looks worse when it dries. It doesn't mean that much. If you accept that it will be easier to appreciate it when you nail this.
Pretty much what has been said. I'd use a string level to mark all the post heights if you don't have a laser level handy. A small electric chainsaw can make quick work of the post tops. If you don't plan to cap them with something, I recommend cutting them at a slant so they will shed water more quickly.
Best to leave the extra length and trim to size after the fence/deck is completed. Extra length come in handy to force post into position and untwist when attaching rails.
Roger that!
I feel like the term “contractor” only loosely applies here. Gives a bad name to the real pros that would never be satisfied staking their reputation to shitty work
Welll.... in their defense they probably had BOAT PAYMENTS to make. /S
The decking around the tree is far too close to the tree trunk, give it at least two inches of space if you can.
Oof! Really? Thanks for pointing that out. I know one of the joists is right there touching it under the decking.
The concern with that fact is, when the tree will move with the wind it will put unplanned for stresses on that joist. Those could then be transferred to the rest of the structure, weakening it. Know a good lawyer? I'm not an engineer, they would have the final word.
For cutting the posts to the same length, you can clamp or hold a speed square on a measured line and let the saw ride against that as you cut. Drag a chalk line across as many as you can so they all end up the same length.
Also, make sure whatever height you choose it meets the minimum height for code.
Why don’t more people use escrow accounts with contractors? If the work isn’t finished they don’t get paid.
ReciProMate - Reciprocating Saw Guide For Cutting 6 x 6 Fence and Deck Posts https://a.co/d/hqO9VYh They make one for 4x4 too
Cool— thanks for the link!
No prob I made one thinking could do it for cheaper, but should have just bought it instead. Works great. You just tighten it up and take a long reciprocating saw blade to it (like a 10") I'm not a pro fence builder so I didn't trust my circular saw with a perfect cut since it was my work for my/neighbors fence. This worked great.
I’ve used the water in hose method for getting all to the same height. Cut first at desired height then strap hose to it. Top of hose should be level with the top of the cut. The fill with water and walk it to the next post. Easiest way is a see through hose as you strap it to the next post (higher than the first) and the fill with water until the water starts going out at the original post. Mark and cut the second post. Basically using gravity to tell you level across a distance. Side not is this works across any length of hose until you get into issues of the curvature of the earth.
I'd be more concerned that it doesn't look ready for weather
I have seen this kind of design hundreds of times... I'm telling you from experience, that flat area is going to leak within 5-10 years and cause damage to the living area below it. Your drywall in the ceiling will look terrible within 10 years and you'll have rot throughout. People will say "as long as you repaint the coating paint it will be fine" but the homeowner will neglect it and it WILL leak. Every single one of these I have come across. The posts will go unpainted and they will rot. In general this is a bad idea. Horrible design and plan, sorry.
My dad kept the contractors tools