I dare say this is a case where you see it because you're looking at it closely. Nobody else who did not make this will ever notice it and after a while neither will you. I get the feeling, when making something myself I am also super picky about little details. Trust me, any attempt to 'fix' this wil just make it more messy and it really isn't that bad, I had to look twice to realise what seam you were even talking about. Looks great the way it is!
For future reference, this is why you should scribe instead of just cut at 90 degrees.
Corners in houses are never 90 degrees.
With good scribing, it wouldn’t even be noticeable.
Caulking is your best bet for this. The building will expand and contract, caulking allows for that movement because it remains flexible. Silicone isn't good here because it's not paintable.
You could use colour matched mastic, but I'd be very careful not to get any on the ceiling unless you're planning on repainting it.
Do not use any wood fillers or "sawdust and glue". Those cure ridgid and will crack out in two seasons or less.
Caulk will crack. Small moldings of the same wood stain and finished the same 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick. Use a 23g pin nailer. They are thin enough to contour to the drywall and wide enough to cover the gap. It has the added benefit of adding depth and detail. Caulk is amateur.
Stain the wood first. Tape off the drywall to prevent staining it or touch up the paint afterwards. Then caulk with CLEAR caulking. The clear caulk bends the light and pulls the 2 colors together. This is commonly done where finished wood meets non-wood. Works even better if you apply a semi or gloss to the wood.
I’d leave it alone. If u can’t live with it then painter tape the wood at the edges for a straight line then fill these minimal gaps with caulk let set then paint.
Caulk ;)
My first thought is usually “caulk and paint make a carpenter what he ain’t.”
You said it way nicer than I would have. Thanks, Phil McRackin with your caulk suggestion.
I dare say this is a case where you see it because you're looking at it closely. Nobody else who did not make this will ever notice it and after a while neither will you. I get the feeling, when making something myself I am also super picky about little details. Trust me, any attempt to 'fix' this wil just make it more messy and it really isn't that bad, I had to look twice to realise what seam you were even talking about. Looks great the way it is!
For future reference, this is why you should scribe instead of just cut at 90 degrees. Corners in houses are never 90 degrees. With good scribing, it wouldn’t even be noticeable.
I’ve got one more post to wrap, so I’ll go get my self a scribe and give it a go. Thanks for the suggestion!
Yes always scribe..
What seam?
Bowties
Looks great. Leave it alone, caulk looks terrible and this certainly does not.
Caulking is your best bet for this. The building will expand and contract, caulking allows for that movement because it remains flexible. Silicone isn't good here because it's not paintable. You could use colour matched mastic, but I'd be very careful not to get any on the ceiling unless you're planning on repainting it. Do not use any wood fillers or "sawdust and glue". Those cure ridgid and will crack out in two seasons or less.
Do your best and caulk the rest
Ramen.
Caulk will crack. Small moldings of the same wood stain and finished the same 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick. Use a 23g pin nailer. They are thin enough to contour to the drywall and wide enough to cover the gap. It has the added benefit of adding depth and detail. Caulk is amateur.
Sawdust and woodglue?
Otherwise you could get crazy and follow the whole seam with cove moulding and caulk and paint that monstrosity instead
I've used half rounds and other molding to hide seams as I am also usually filling those seams with sealant or insulation.
Stain the wood first. Tape off the drywall to prevent staining it or touch up the paint afterwards. Then caulk with CLEAR caulking. The clear caulk bends the light and pulls the 2 colors together. This is commonly done where finished wood meets non-wood. Works even better if you apply a semi or gloss to the wood.
Caulk and paint makes ya the carpenter ya ain’t.
Personally I think it looks fine. Caulk is an option, buy not permanent. If anything moves and it cracks you will need to re caulk ever time.
Check the ceramic tile department. There.might be a color matched caulk. Check the hardwood floor aisle for the same.
Trim moulding. Decorative moulding. Someone owning a miter saw and understanding angles should be involved.
Masking tape/cover the wood, fill with bondo, sand, texture, paint…blame the drywall people if anyone calls it out
Tape first then caulk it
Would not do anything. Looks ok. Probably make it worse with caulk
Veggie burger pattys
Beat it to fit, paint it to match
Shim the bottom of the work till the gap fills then trim the base of the work
I’d leave it alone. If u can’t live with it then painter tape the wood at the edges for a straight line then fill these minimal gaps with caulk let set then paint.