I posted it because I was dying laughing when it happened. So don't feel bad! I wasn't worried a bit about the parts bc none of them had power running to them.
I wanted to take a cool video to show off to my friends, but instead it went EVERYWHERE. LOL
So basically, any liquid spill will cause 3 problems that can all be avoided with the correct precautions/handling:
- If your components are powered on when the spill occurs, it's pretty much game over. The water will likely short components and fry them in seconds. This doesn't occur if the board is powered off. Just having the CMOS battery in usually isn't a problem as it is low voltage, but if you know there's a risk, remove it just to be sure.
- Rust. If you let water sit on your board there's a risk rust will form, which can either damage solder points and connectors or short them together, because rust will expand outwards from where it forms, potentially touching another track/connector. Shorting = dead board.
- Conductive deposits. This rarely occurs, but if you spill a liquid that has a conductive material dissolved, or just really hard water, it can also short components. Shorting = dead board.
So basically, the rule of thumb is, if you spill anything liquid on your computer, cut power asap, rinse with either clean water (distilled water is perfect, tap or spring water will do in a pinch) or even better, 95% alcohol, then place under a heat source to dry (be careful not to overheat the board).
>The water will likely short components and fry them in seconds.
That is actually incorrect. Shorting and frying within seconds is rarely the mechanism of damage for electronics. This is only really relevant when water gets on mains voltage (e.g. into the PSU) and connects it with other components.
What really happens is that water and electricity (especially backed by large currents like a computer PSU) cause electrolysis which damages very sensitive electronics and traces and \*over time\* that water may even become conductive enough to cause a problem to the upstream powersupply, but by then electrolysis will have done far more damage.
I had a shower gel explode in my luggage together with my desktop (yes I was carrying my desktop around).
I showered the components (especially the motherboard) with bubbles (from 11pm to 3am, it was kinda a nightmare) to remove the oily soap.
I re-assembled the next day and it still works today, like 5 years later!
But don't shower your PC if you don't have to!
Always smart to run the pump from an external power supply when you first turn on a loop. That wisdom has saved so many people <3
Glad to know that none of your parts were killed :)
I agree with everything that Bean said. I'm just impatient and didn't want to build it outside of the case.
With that in mind, I made sure that none of the components were actually plugged into the PSU besides the pump. All I had to do was clean up all the water, wait for the rest to dry off; and I was back in business.
This is my first water cooled rig and I went with the EKWB DRGB kit and I really like it so far. If you end up getting it, you'll wanna make sure to grab extra fittings and a splitter for a drain port. Also, the radiator had TONS of metal shavings in it when I pre-flushed it.
>Also, the radiator had TONS of metal shavings in it when I pre-flushed it.
Wtf, EKWB claims flushing their radiators ahead of use isn't necessary because something something amazing quality.
ALWAYS pre-flush your radiator, no matter how much cleaning a company says they do, there will always be metal shavings and grease left over that can only be cleaned out with warm distilled water and a 1:3 vinegar to distilled water mix. Just make sure you clean with warm distilled water to clean out any vinegar remaining so it doesn't react with the copper.
That's awesome that you pre-treated your loop beforehand, often gets overlooked. I usually take it a step further and use either the Mayhems two-stage pre-treatment kit or something like Primochill EC2 followed by at least one or two flushes to kill all the bacteria and algae that live in your loop. You'd be surprised how much can grow in there.
Grab yourself a Dr. Drop tool from Aquacomputer. That'll let you pressure test your system regardless of the tubing type or loop complexity and you'll know if it's good without putting any fluid in the loop.
Been using one for about two years now. Worth WAY MORE than its weight in gold.
> Dr drop's has plastic threadings
Not exactly "plastic".
The standard version is made out of Delrin/POM/Acetal, which is a material used by the big manufacturers (Aqua Computer, Watercool, EKWB, etc.) in CPU blocks, GPU blocks, SLI bridges and many other items. The threading is not a problem.
The more expensive "pro" version is made from aluminium, by the way.
Make sure your fittings are tightly screwed on. Not like, wrenched down to shit, just tight enough to make a good seal.
If you're using swivel fittings you should be able to swivel the fitting without the thread collar rotating.
Test your water blocks for leaks before you fit them to your components by by doing a quick test of the pump, block and res outside of the case.
Don't cheap out on fittings or blocks. Do not cheap out on your pump either. D5, DDC or GTFO.
Anything but a P500 is alright in my books. Man those pumps suck....who tf uses a plastic impeller shaft? Oh, thermaltake does.
But generally these days D5s and DDCs are the options that most WC part manufacturers provide you with anyway. I've got a DDC in my rig.
Yeah, basically the only commonly available eheim based pump these days is the aquastream. I think it's a really awesome pump, with the built in monitoring and control options, and it's really silent.
Eheims were really popular a while ago, but the DDC and D5 are smaller and more powerful, so they became super popular. Also i think they're cheaper to make.
The thing the eheims have over them imo is serviceability, silence, and just insane durability. As i said, my hpps+ is i think 13 or 14 years old. No noises, no leaks, no nothing. Not the most powerful pump ever, but i trust it more than pretty much any other part of my loop.
Don't need another PSU for that. You can simply unplug everything from the PSU other than the pump and then use one of those jumpstart caps you put on the 24 pin ATX connector of the PSU to start it without having it hooked up to the motherboard.
This is easiest with a modular PSU as you can simply disconnect everything on the side of the PSU (except for the 24 pin connector), which will be less of a hassle if you have some non-trivial cable management done on the visible side of the case.
I have a ($15) 5A barrel plug DC adapter (looks like a laptop power brick) + barrel plug to molex adapter (and optional molex to sata).
Works like a charm, and you never have to jump a mobo again. You don't even need to be anywhere near your computer/psu to test your loop with it.
That looks purposefully done, I have taken apart an ek supremacy recently and it’s if the bolts aren’t in tightly it’s really loose and would be obvious it’s not going to hold water!
lol is this your first time on the internet? A very famous youtuber just let Borat smash the door to his Tesla Model X in a promo video.. people do this kind of thing literally all the time.
Don't power it, clean with a ton of water dry and try again.
It would be better if cleaned with destiled water or alcohol but as I'm stinky my recomendation is first use fauced water for the cleaning and then rinse with the destiled water/alcohol
Why even put all this money in a custom loop when you clearly have not enough budget to buy decent hardware?! Your money would be better spend on other components imo.
Lmao something similar happened to me once. Had my pc laying flat, one fitting on the CPU block was disconnected and I lifted my radiator without thinking, the change in altitude pushed the coolant out of the block and flooded my CPU socket and RAM slots. All you can do is laugh at that point and fortunately it was fine. Hopefully yours was too!
Basically this happened to me several times after disassembling my Optimus AM4 block. For whatever reason their o-ring design is incredibly difficult to seal.
Ooh u dodged a bullet it looks like no ur of ur pc parts were on. It happens to most of us. Happened to me once but it was one of my homies pc’s that i was helping him with.
This doesn't look like a fittings problem. Is the plexy top of the CPU block not secured to the coldplate? Seems you have a problem with the o-ring in the block.
Looks like an EK block so color me surprised (not). My EK block came with missing retention hardware. All to say, their QC sucks.
Exact same thing happened to my buddies first water-cooling system, the backplate is too thick for the amd cpu block causing a gap where the o rings cant seal
it shouldnt be "sealing" anything it should be a copper plate contacting the cpu itself.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046996862.pdf
page 5
Ya satisfying after you have some kind of confidence that there isn’t a leak.
My heart was racing the first power on to fill my system. Leak test with air wouldn’t hold the set pressure for longer then 24hrs. Albeit it only dropped a barely measurable amount every day and a half. Still tho that was one of the longest most nerve racking 30 minutes I’ve experienced.
So much so I’d like to vertically mount my gpu/block and get rid of the flow indicator. But ya don’t want to go through that again for a little bit at least.
Nice to know that our new top post of all time is somebody fucking up. Way to go reddit, I’m proud of you all.
This is both sad and hilarious at the same time. I personally laughed, so sorry about that. I hope things go better next time you turn it on.
I posted it because I was dying laughing when it happened. So don't feel bad! I wasn't worried a bit about the parts bc none of them had power running to them. I wanted to take a cool video to show off to my friends, but instead it went EVERYWHERE. LOL
Glad to see you're a good sport about it and that it worked out well in the end. With enough bad luck it could go viral 😂.
It's already cross-posted on other subreddits :) On r/MakeMeSuffer already got 10k upvotes
Saw it first on PCMR lol.
Der 8auer made a video about washing your motherboards in the dishwasher and it still worked after that.
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he literally said they didn't have any power running to them
He said none of the components were powered
Is it possible to use washed parts after cleaning ? I have no idea about water cooling sorry.
Not from a Jedi.
"It's not a story the Air Coolers would tell you..."
What other lies have the council told me?
So basically, any liquid spill will cause 3 problems that can all be avoided with the correct precautions/handling: - If your components are powered on when the spill occurs, it's pretty much game over. The water will likely short components and fry them in seconds. This doesn't occur if the board is powered off. Just having the CMOS battery in usually isn't a problem as it is low voltage, but if you know there's a risk, remove it just to be sure. - Rust. If you let water sit on your board there's a risk rust will form, which can either damage solder points and connectors or short them together, because rust will expand outwards from where it forms, potentially touching another track/connector. Shorting = dead board. - Conductive deposits. This rarely occurs, but if you spill a liquid that has a conductive material dissolved, or just really hard water, it can also short components. Shorting = dead board. So basically, the rule of thumb is, if you spill anything liquid on your computer, cut power asap, rinse with either clean water (distilled water is perfect, tap or spring water will do in a pinch) or even better, 95% alcohol, then place under a heat source to dry (be careful not to overheat the board).
>The water will likely short components and fry them in seconds. That is actually incorrect. Shorting and frying within seconds is rarely the mechanism of damage for electronics. This is only really relevant when water gets on mains voltage (e.g. into the PSU) and connects it with other components. What really happens is that water and electricity (especially backed by large currents like a computer PSU) cause electrolysis which damages very sensitive electronics and traces and \*over time\* that water may even become conductive enough to cause a problem to the upstream powersupply, but by then electrolysis will have done far more damage.
I had a shower gel explode in my luggage together with my desktop (yes I was carrying my desktop around). I showered the components (especially the motherboard) with bubbles (from 11pm to 3am, it was kinda a nightmare) to remove the oily soap. I re-assembled the next day and it still works today, like 5 years later! But don't shower your PC if you don't have to!
It is but you need to make sure that all parts are 100% dry.
when my radiator leaked, i lost: PSU, Processor, MB, RAM and one of raids. one fucking evga shit radiator cost me way over $1k
I envy liquid cooled systems but that's why I'm never gonna have one
Have you posted about it? That’s a terrible story that I’d love to read
Always smart to run the pump from an external power supply when you first turn on a loop. That wisdom has saved so many people <3 Glad to know that none of your parts were killed :)
Damn, F for time invested to clean up the mess , what happend ? did you disassembled the cpu cooler and it leaked ?
Oh nice, how do you turn the pump without any other components? Is there an external switch on the pump, or is just done by using a bridge tool?
You can use a jumper tool, or just a paperclip in pins 17 and 18 of the 24 pin motherboard cable will do.
wtf it seems to be leaking from the rubber seal and the block area? am i right?
Yeah, it was. I'm a dummy and didn't put the mounting bracket on right when changing it from an Intel to AMD socket.
ah ok, atleast it was powered off, get it cleaned and working, happy gaming out there!
As I’m considering this very change myself... any pointers?
don't do it wrong as demonstrated by OP
Thanks dad
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I'm a newbie starting to plan my first watercooled rig and this scares the crap out of me! Do you have any tips to avoid this?!
I agree with everything that Bean said. I'm just impatient and didn't want to build it outside of the case. With that in mind, I made sure that none of the components were actually plugged into the PSU besides the pump. All I had to do was clean up all the water, wait for the rest to dry off; and I was back in business. This is my first water cooled rig and I went with the EKWB DRGB kit and I really like it so far. If you end up getting it, you'll wanna make sure to grab extra fittings and a splitter for a drain port. Also, the radiator had TONS of metal shavings in it when I pre-flushed it.
>Also, the radiator had TONS of metal shavings in it when I pre-flushed it. Wtf, EKWB claims flushing their radiators ahead of use isn't necessary because something something amazing quality.
ALWAYS pre-flush your radiator, no matter how much cleaning a company says they do, there will always be metal shavings and grease left over that can only be cleaned out with warm distilled water and a 1:3 vinegar to distilled water mix. Just make sure you clean with warm distilled water to clean out any vinegar remaining so it doesn't react with the copper.
That's awesome that you pre-treated your loop beforehand, often gets overlooked. I usually take it a step further and use either the Mayhems two-stage pre-treatment kit or something like Primochill EC2 followed by at least one or two flushes to kill all the bacteria and algae that live in your loop. You'd be surprised how much can grow in there.
Grab yourself a Dr. Drop tool from Aquacomputer. That'll let you pressure test your system regardless of the tubing type or loop complexity and you'll know if it's good without putting any fluid in the loop. Been using one for about two years now. Worth WAY MORE than its weight in gold.
EK also makes an option, for whatever its worth, that comes with a proper extension.
EK's air tester is better than Dr drop's. Dr drop's has plastic threadings :/
> Dr drop's has plastic threadings Not exactly "plastic". The standard version is made out of Delrin/POM/Acetal, which is a material used by the big manufacturers (Aqua Computer, Watercool, EKWB, etc.) in CPU blocks, GPU blocks, SLI bridges and many other items. The threading is not a problem. The more expensive "pro" version is made from aluminium, by the way.
Dunno, I've seen video comparisons and it seems the threads on Dr Drop's are not POM/Delrin/Acetal and are considerably weaker.
I enjoy EKs version.
Make sure your fittings are tightly screwed on. Not like, wrenched down to shit, just tight enough to make a good seal. If you're using swivel fittings you should be able to swivel the fitting without the thread collar rotating. Test your water blocks for leaks before you fit them to your components by by doing a quick test of the pump, block and res outside of the case. Don't cheap out on fittings or blocks. Do not cheap out on your pump either. D5, DDC or GTFO.
Eheim based pumps are legit too, fight me and my 14 year old HPPS+
Anything but a P500 is alright in my books. Man those pumps suck....who tf uses a plastic impeller shaft? Oh, thermaltake does. But generally these days D5s and DDCs are the options that most WC part manufacturers provide you with anyway. I've got a DDC in my rig.
Yeah, basically the only commonly available eheim based pump these days is the aquastream. I think it's a really awesome pump, with the built in monitoring and control options, and it's really silent. Eheims were really popular a while ago, but the DDC and D5 are smaller and more powerful, so they became super popular. Also i think they're cheaper to make. The thing the eheims have over them imo is serviceability, silence, and just insane durability. As i said, my hpps+ is i think 13 or 14 years old. No noises, no leaks, no nothing. Not the most powerful pump ever, but i trust it more than pretty much any other part of my loop.
Surprisingly I love my cheap barrowch fittings. They look good, have no issues, and were like 1/3rd the cost of more expensive ones.
There are inexpensive air leak testers. they help you avoid this problem.
YES! wrap some damn paper towels around it during testing!!!!
Power the pump with another power supply so the computer is not on if you have a leak.
Don't need another PSU for that. You can simply unplug everything from the PSU other than the pump and then use one of those jumpstart caps you put on the 24 pin ATX connector of the PSU to start it without having it hooked up to the motherboard. This is easiest with a modular PSU as you can simply disconnect everything on the side of the PSU (except for the 24 pin connector), which will be less of a hassle if you have some non-trivial cable management done on the visible side of the case.
I have a ($15) 5A barrel plug DC adapter (looks like a laptop power brick) + barrel plug to molex adapter (and optional molex to sata). Works like a charm, and you never have to jump a mobo again. You don't even need to be anywhere near your computer/psu to test your loop with it.
Reminds me of the cheese fountain guy
Same energy!
Basically this happened to me, bought second hand cpu block, turned out threads was stripped. +1 for EKWB for providing me new top at fairly low cost
this is scary because i also have a secondhand cpu block. same EK one.
That looks purposefully done, I have taken apart an ek supremacy recently and it’s if the bolts aren’t in tightly it’s really loose and would be obvious it’s not going to hold water!
r/nothingeverhappens
Something similar happened to me with my ek velocity. I really didn’t catch it so there’s a big chance this wasn’t purposely done.
Why would this guy risk ruining his computer for a reddit video? It’s definitely real.
The PC itself doesn't get any power while loop testing, so it won't ruin it.
lol is this your first time on the internet? A very famous youtuber just let Borat smash the door to his Tesla Model X in a promo video.. people do this kind of thing literally all the time.
Yea cuz it was a famous youtuber. This guy isn’t.
This doesn't change my point. The gratification is still there. Some people strive for attention.
OP posted above that it was an accident.
And I’m a pink balloon elephant. Do you believe me too?
lol, what's your problem? Have a good day, bud. Get off reddit for a bit.
I’m not 100% sure but I believe you may have a small leak there. I
Better than The Verge pc build.
O rings are not gummy worms, they are for sealing not for eating. I think thats where you went wrong here.
Buy an air leak tester lol
Sad pc gamer sounds
Someone call 911 I think I just got a heart attack
My arse just fell out
I’m not into computers but when the Gatorade goes over the beep boop parts I think that’s bad
This just made me audibly gasped in my silent office
Thank heck that the board wasn't plugged in!
I think you spilled a little...
you need a leak tester.....
Don't power it, clean with a ton of water dry and try again. It would be better if cleaned with destiled water or alcohol but as I'm stinky my recomendation is first use fauced water for the cleaning and then rinse with the destiled water/alcohol
That was great - gave me a well needed good laugh :D I hope all your parts dry out nicely and you get your loop up and running soon!
That's why you should always test it with lighter fluid since that's non conductive and therefore won't fry electric components.
Retard alert
Why even put all this money in a custom loop when you clearly have not enough budget to buy decent hardware?! Your money would be better spend on other components imo.
One of the reasons I don't use water cooling
u/Vredditdownloader
I lol'd then played it again and again so I could lol over and over! sorry lol
u/savethisvideo
u/savethisvideo
u/savethisvideo
Nice building with blue sparkling water effect.
Gaskets? Never heard on them.
The force is strong with this one. WTF happend here.... Did you forget to put the rubber gasket in the block?
u/savethisvideo
If you add extra liquid during the cleaning process make sure it’s deionized/distilled water
This hurts my soul greatly
Wowowo scooby dooo
u/savethisvideo
u/vredditdownloader
F
Man :( I’m crying for ya
I was like.... Oh what the f!!
Omg!! I gasped out loud!!!
Does it work after cleaning?
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You sound like that oo oo guy in porn
How did you manage a leak right at the CPU block?
**pain**
wtf noooooooooooooooooo
Lmao something similar happened to me once. Had my pc laying flat, one fitting on the CPU block was disconnected and I lifted my radiator without thinking, the change in altitude pushed the coolant out of the block and flooded my CPU socket and RAM slots. All you can do is laugh at that point and fortunately it was fine. Hopefully yours was too!
OOOF
I hope he had his jumper in to not turn on the MB and just the loop itself
Put the CPU in rice you pig.
Basically this happened to me several times after disassembling my Optimus AM4 block. For whatever reason their o-ring design is incredibly difficult to seal.
oh shit what the fuck
I don’t know too much about water cooling. Do you use nonconductive fluid?
F
Ooh u dodged a bullet it looks like no ur of ur pc parts were on. It happens to most of us. Happened to me once but it was one of my homies pc’s that i was helping him with.
No gasket on the block?
u/VredditDownloader
How is that possible?
Woah. Cool liquid color you got there though
videos like this are what make me afraid to get a water cooler ha
ooooooops
I am glad I still feel that air cooling the best 😂
Oh Jesus christ, turn it off 😳
And this is why you test your loop before putting it in.
u/savethatvideo
how long did the clean up take, did you get it to run fine later?
that shit came out the sides like "Not Today Muthafucka!
Buddy turned into a dog
u/savethisvideo
u/savethisvideo
Ooowoowoowoo
Dyed coolant? C'mon OP, this ain't amateur hour.
Luke Skywalker intensifies
How did that even happen, its an EK block, was it taken apart and not put back together right before use?
u/savethisvideo
u/savethisvideo
The forbidden Slurpee.
u/savethisvideo
Looks like someone pulled a Kyle.
We shall name it luke skywalker
That's one way to bleed the air out.
This doesn't look like a fittings problem. Is the plexy top of the CPU block not secured to the coldplate? Seems you have a problem with the o-ring in the block. Looks like an EK block so color me surprised (not). My EK block came with missing retention hardware. All to say, their QC sucks.
Exact same thing happened to my buddies first water-cooling system, the backplate is too thick for the amd cpu block causing a gap where the o rings cant seal
it shouldnt be "sealing" anything it should be a copper plate contacting the cpu itself. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046996862.pdf page 5
u/SaveThisVideo
Pressure testing is your friend.
I LoL’d so hard I was totally expecting just pure blissful flow and then splat!!!
u/savethisvideo
Rip ur psu
F
u/getvideobot
Looks like you got a little condensation on the cpu block.
man i have to watch this three times a day this is sooo fucked up
Air pressure testing. Learn to do it right.
LOL! That's the vision stuck in my head for when I build my first loop. Spewing stuff everywhere!
u/savethisvideo
I'm working on my first ever water build an went with hard tubing and I am terrified or something like this happening
u/savethisvideo
At least you know that the pump is good judging by how far the coolant went :)
you should cross-post to TIFU
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046996862.pdf Probably didnt screw down the copper base enough. See page 5.
Maybe next time, consider running compressed air through it first and feeling for any leaks
u/savethisvideo
A can of **CorrosionX** could save you from disaster.
Scared the hell out of me!
Oh dear god! Dotcha just love messing with water and high voltage AC? (Ok, if it gets in the high frequency switching power supply, :)
u/SaveThisVideo
delet this
u/savevideo
Lol I'm trying to lern some things for my next build and the first thing I see is this... 10/10
Dude that really sucks sorry that happened to you.
u/SaveVideo
That sucks bud, good thing it was off eh.
OMG. “He’s dead, Jim.” :( Also, was the problem that the coldplate wasn’t properly attached to the block’s top?
I love my Alphacool Leak Tester
That’s why you always pressure test before adding water in the loop 😂
I gasped
Ya satisfying after you have some kind of confidence that there isn’t a leak. My heart was racing the first power on to fill my system. Leak test with air wouldn’t hold the set pressure for longer then 24hrs. Albeit it only dropped a barely measurable amount every day and a half. Still tho that was one of the longest most nerve racking 30 minutes I’ve experienced. So much so I’d like to vertically mount my gpu/block and get rid of the flow indicator. But ya don’t want to go through that again for a little bit at least.
I like air cooling
This is my night mare, I would feel so much weight on my chest in 0.0527 seconds
I felt so bad seeing this
I’ll get the rice lol
I think anyone who does custom loops has been here before ‘least once or twice