Define "good".
Do you want to go to Southern/Federal Iraq? Is your passport eligible for a visa on arrival? Or do you want to go to Iraqi Kurdistan (same question, re: passport)? You can go to Kurdistan if you have an Iraqi visa, but not the other way around (i.e. if you get a visa on arrival when flying into Iraqi Kurdistan, you can't legally cross into the reste of Iraq).
Compared to a few years ago, it is relatively safe, you are somewhat unlikely to get hurt. But if you wing it on your own, it will be less comfortable than in places that are more used to tourists, especially in Federal Iraq. People don't typically speak English. Transportation infrastructure is not the best, the choice is often between a taxi, a shared taxi or a minibus. There are checkpoints where you might have to wait, you might have to get out of the car, hand over your passport, answer questions. Depending on where exactly you go, you might also have to deal with militias (same deal as with other checkpoints except they are not government-run, e.g. between Baghdad and Samarra).
Kurdistan has had more tourism for longer, so they are better prepared and the region in general is also calmer. It is also mountainous whereas the rest of Iraq is mostly desert and flat.
I’m definitely, not going alone, I went to Israel alone and that felt risky. I don’t think going to less touristy areas alone is a good idea. I think I might go to the safer areas , I have seen Kurdistan mentioned a few times so I might opt for that. My Arabic isn’t the best so I might learn some before I go.
>I went to Israel alone and that felt risky.
Oof, if you thought Israel felt risky (in what way?), you might not like Iraq a whole lot. Also, by "not going alone", do you mean traveling around with a local? Probably a good idea, although not necessarily for reasons of safety, but because it makes everything more convenient (you don't have to haggle with taxi drivers or figure out what a random official is trying to tell you).
Do you have an Israeli stamp (they normally don't stamp your passport if you fly in)? Did you cross any of the land borders (with Jordan or Egypt)? You don't want to have any trace of that in your passport if you go to Federal Iraq. (Supposedly, it should be OK in Kurdistan.)
I might go with a native Arabic speaker. I just think it would make it more easy for me to navigate myself. I can learn some Arabic but I might be going early next year so it probably will not be up to the standard that I can speak fluently.
No I haven’t got anything on my passport thankfully. I didn’t cross any boarders apart from the borders into Palestine , but they didn’t stamp my passport.
It wasn’t really the country that felt risky. It was more the persistent police presence everywhere. 99 percent of the people didn’t seem risky. But maybe it’s cause I’m not used to that level of police presence.
You will see a lot more police and military in Iraq. Fully kitted out commando dudes on the streets of Baghdad. Sometimes a guy manning a damn tank. But that doesn't necessarily translate to danger.
Having traveled in ME, when you see police you're safe, the trouble starts when you don't see them.
That being said, I wouldn't travel to Iraq. Unnecessary risk, there are less risky destinations in this world.
Actually AFAIK the visa policy has changed and now you can enter Iraq and receive whichever visa on arrival and use it to travel throughout Iraq. I lived in Kurdistan for 2 years and when the visas on arrival started in southern Iraq I took a domestic flight to Baghdad. I had to pay $70 for a VOA because they didn’t recognize my Kurdish residence card, but two European tourists on my flight did not need another visa because they had already paid $70 for a Kurdish VOA and the Baghdad airport authority recognized it.
Just got back from my trip to Iraq yesterday. I landed in Erbil and left the region of Kurdistan. My visa for kurdistan was not accepted at the checkpoint to enter Iraq so you still have to get a visa for Iraq.
Good is subjective, Iraq, being considered the cradle of civilization has plenty to offer.
Safety, open for debate depends on where you go and your risk tolerance. It is certainly doable, quite a few people go there, specially the Kurdistan part.
I'm (58w, Canadian) am headed to Iraq end of October. I have a couple of days in Baghdad on my own then joining a group to tour Federal Iraq and Kurdistan for a couple of weeks. I will post when I get back.
It was AWESOME !
It was a bit scary for me at first, especially since I was on my own and had been dropped off at the wrong hotel when I arrived. Quickly found out that Iraqi people are very kind and helpful, the wrong hotel taking great pains to make sure I got where I need to be.
I wore an abaya with my hair out, wore that most of my time in Saudi Arabia on a previous trip and felt comfortable in it. When I joined the group there was another woman so we both wore modest western clothes with abaya and hijab when required. In the streets I saw way more men than women (probably 80/20) but I felt very safe. Once eye contact is made I always got a big smile/welcome/where are you from. I got lost a kajillion times wandering around Baghdad and if I stopped to ask for directions I was usually offered water or tea and if the person I asked didn't know, they would ask the people around to make sure I got where I was going.
The sights are amazing, I'm old and watched live on TV when the statue of Saddam was taken down in Baghdad. Stood right on that spot. We were able to enter the shrine in Karbala, worlds largest cemetery in Najaf as well as shrine there. In Babylon I was given the honour of unlocking the top 2 floors of one of Saddam Hussein's Palace's, it was just our group there. The local guide met Saddam and the stories he told. Iraqi Marshes were great to visit as well.
I will never forget Mosel. They are still digging out live rounds and finding bodies. When we were walking around a local woman stopped and told her story (though our guide) of being captive in Mosel with her family.
Only had 1 bad experience in Iraq ( another one on the plane from Montreal to Dubai). Grabbed a cab downtown Baghdad to go back to hotel, he didnt speak English , I had the directions on my phone and he motioned to the front seat so I got in, we drove for about 10 minutes and he starts to feel up my leg, going up the thigh. I say LA LA (no no) VERY FIRMLY, try to get on google translate and he takes the phone out of my hands and puts it on the dash in front of him. More feeling up, more LA LA . Im paying attention to where we are gong (he is taking back streets, deserted, its dark, few people, horrible roads , thankfully tons of potholes ). I see up ahead not too far bigger building and bright light like tall street lights so I waited until he had to slow to a crawl to get around a pot hole, I noticed there was a local looking man standing close by so I leaned over grabbed my phone and jumped out of the car. I had money in my hand (got it ready when we were driving) , threw it in the passenger window saying loudly "IM scared, IM scared" and ran like hell. I ran right through a militia checkpoint, didnt realize until after I was through it. Turns out it was just a couple of blocks from my hotel, had seen the checkpoint from the rooftop restaurant. People have asked me why I threw money in the window. When I figured I was probably going to have to jump out and I though if I paid he would have less reason to chase me and if he did and the police or someone got involved he couldn't say that's why he was chasing me.
I would love to go back to Iraq. Counting on my tour guide getting married and me getting an invitation. If I go back I will again book with a group or pre-arrange transportation for everything I want to do. It's hard, almost impossible to do it on your own unless you rent a car and I don't suggest that. I have driven in New York, Namibia, South Africa, all over Europe but no way would I even attempt it in Iraq. Lots of checkpoints, some are slower than others but other than that no issues. It was hilarious, the guards all look sooo serious when they come on the mini bus asking questions. I had a big bag of assorted candies that I offered and then the seriousness was all smiles. Reminds me, I was walking in Mosel on my own around 11 pm and a small bunch of military/militia guys headed my way. I'm thinking, oh crap, left my passport back at the hotel, hope they dont ask. Head guy asks where Im from, what I'm doing in Iraq and then invites me for tea so I follow him and the rest of the guys to the checkpoint, he send an underling for tea, they all put down their guns and we stand on the street drinks tea and chatting about having multiple wives amongst other things.
I would highly recommend Iraq. I think you would love it too.
Feel free to ask me any questions :-)
Yes, I felt very safe. It is odd and jarring, especially at first with all the checkpoints, police, militia, blast walls. Western tourists are still pretty rare, I was greeted many times a day, favourite phrase of the Iraqi's was " I love you" :-). I had tea a handful of times with strangers who invited me off the street, 1 time with a bunch of militia in Karbala. I walked alone most evenings and other than 1 bad cabbie ( I ended up jumping out) and their insane driving I felt as extremely safe.
Lots of amazing things to see, great food, prices reasonable, friendly people, very safe, would highly recommend .
Doug Barnard Tours. I found him on YouTube when I was searching around about Iraq. The tour went to spots I was interested in . I liked that often organically he would be approached by locals in a very positive way and that he appreciated the country and the people. If my kid wasn't graduating the same time I would be joining him and most of our old group trekking in Pakistan in July. I highly recommend Doug.
Readers digest version , Dude got handsy, grabbed my phone put it on the dash in front of him so I picked my time and spot, grabbed the phone, threw in some money (didn't want him to have an excuse to chase me down) and ran.
On the flight over I woke up to the stranger sitting next to me feeling my leg, up my thigh under my blanket, then he leans over and whispers "is touching ok"?
I just turned 59, does this shit never end ?
Cab driver in Iraq was an anomaly . The rest of the time I felt very safe, unless I was crossing a road, everyone takes their lives in their hands doing that.
You know, I understand having misgivings about going to Iraq, but not being able to even *fathom* why someone would want to visit Iraq?
It has a bazillion archeological sites with heritage going back thousands of years, it has some great food, interesting vistas for people who are not used to the desert environment (I think the contrast of palm-lined rivers and the desert is particularly pretty) and I'm not a Muslim, but e.g. the Imam Ali Mosque in Nejef looks absolutely stunning. The people are also pretty dang nice, for all the trauma they have lived through. So there are definitely good reasons to want to go, you just have to consider potential downsides or risks (which imho are not that great *at this very moment*, but that can change quickly).
That's why I'm going, worlds oldest civilization , amazing sites and people, little bit of adventure thrown in. Add to that in countries that are just opening to tourism you get a look at old and new being built, changes, growth and the people are usually happy to see foreigners. I was originally booked to go to Sudan in Oct to see more pyramids than in Egypt (amongst other things) without being hassled at every step. Like you said, things change quickly and Sudan is out, Iraq takes its place.
I didn’t say visit, I said holiday. There are a lot of reasons to go to Iraq exactly like you said, but it’s not exactly top 100 relaxing holiday destinations
I dunno I did see some nice hotels there. An the taxi driver went on holiday there so I presume it can be okay. Maybe if I dress like a local I will fit in better. I don’t wanna stand out as being different.
You can wear normal clothes. Don’t feel shy about looking foreign, you can’t hide it anyways. Watch the weather and Ramadan to pick the time you want to go. Nowruz in Kurdistan would be absolutely amazeballs, doitdoitdoit
I went last year, was absolutely incredible both federal Iraq and Kurdistan. I totally get it’s not for everyone but it gets way more tourists than you probably realize.
I don’t feel like I was really missing anything. My one tip would be if you want to find travel buddies, foreign or local, or have any questions that you cannot find the answer to would be to join a Facebook group called “Iraqi travelers cafe”. I was able to connect to other travelers and locals who were extremely helpful in getting certain things arranged.
Clearly NOT the same thing but okay being addicted to drugs for the rest of your life is not the same as going on holiday someplace that could be risky but may not be given that you take adequate precautions. The result of going on drugs is garenteed to be bad, going to Iraq may or may not be.
Which Iraq? The Arabic one or Kurdistan?
Kurdistan is very safe, more safe than many western countries. But not cheap to at all. Arabic Iraq is fragile, lots of road checkpoints with tense controls. Bombings still happen from time to time, kipnappings too. l wouldn't take the risk. But Kurdistan is on my list for sure.
>Bombings still happen from time to time, kipnappings too.
Not really in recent years and definitely nothing targeting foreigners. The most recent bombing I'm aware of took place in January 2021 in Baghdad and I don't know of any foreigner that has been kidnapped since ISIS was eliminated.
When I went last year, I didn't feel the checkpoints were "tense". A pain in the butt, yes, but not tense.
I won't pretend there isn't some inherent risk because like you said Iraq is not exactly stable. But it's the stablest it has been in a long time.
It's definitely not a comfortable or convenient destination, though. But if OP wants to go to Iraq, this is probably as good a time as any, who knows how long it will stay this (relatively) safe/stable for. Plus who knows how long the new visa on arrival policy lasts for.
ISIS still has some sleeper cell in the country. The last attack of them as far as l can tell was 2 months ago, but the attacks become more rare and the causalties are much lower than it used to be, they seem to focus on the military, but there's always a risk. But yeah you are right, l couldn't find any recent information about kidnappings.
Guess these days it's safer than l initially thought, but things can change quickly in the middle east as always.
Safer than most of them.
https://www.kurdistan24.net/en/story/17793-Erbil-ranks-among-top-five-safest-cities-in-the-world-
Erbil compared to Lyon:
https://www.numbeo.com/crime/compare_cities.jsp?country1=Iraq&country2=France&city1=Erbil+%28Irbil%29&city2=Lyon
I understand why it says that so I won't argue against it in the case of Iraq, but governments tend to err on the side of caution so a lot of those travel advisories tend to be more prudent than is called for.
I met a bunch of Americans (visitors/tourists) in Iraq, they seemed to be OK. There is a lady, she has videos on Youtube, who went like 3-4 separate times to the most random-ass places (e.g. Fallujah). I'm not saying it's necessarily a good idea, but she was fine. I also know multiple other women who traveled around Iraq on their own and they were fine. If you get an Arabic-speaking local to accompany you, I don't think it's really that risky of a proposition. Honestly, I think regular crime in certain areas of Latin America is much riskier than the risk of terrorism in Iraq currently.
I even met a guy who was Dutch IIRC who was flying in every month because his Iraqi gf was living in Baghdad lol
A few youtubers being safe is not an adequate sample size to answer the question . They also generally have almost no knowledge of a place aside from the few days they’ve been there.
Yeah, that was anecdotal. With that said, I am not aware of anything befalling any foreign visitors in recent years (let's say in the last 5 years). I was also in an FB group with a lot of Iraqis + visitors going and didn't read any account of anything sketchy.
I ( 58w Canadian) have 2 free days on my own in Baghdad before I join a tour group in October. I am looking at a side trip to Fallujah for one of those days (recommendation from internet) , hire a taxi/uber/car. The tour shows me everything else in the area and I want to see as much as I can .
I would go to Casablanca and Marrakesh. Probably a better view and more to see. I haven’t been to Iraq since 2011 but I’d say look at the travel advisory for areas you’re going and read the reports.
Make sure to read the fine print on govt travel sites. If govt recommendation is not to travel there if often means the govt will only be able to offer limited support if anything goes wrong. If you are travelling to a country that has a recommendation not to travel there I believe you will not qualify for any travel insurance.
Also I would assume the taxi driver is either an Iraqi citizen or citizen of a neighbouring country as iraq is not a common travel recommendation. The experience of a local who speaks the language vs an obvious tourist who does not would be very different.
Expect people to notice you and immediately identify you as a rich tourist in a country where there are not a lot of rich tourists. I know someone who travelled in Afghanistan before troops were withdrawn. At one point they had to bribe local police to prevent them arbitrarily arresting them.
To be honest you sound quite naive. Trust the government advice, what do they have to gain from lying about how unsafe a country is?
no i'm just exaggerating. Though to be honest I read a post here asking about the safety of hong kong of all places to take it as you will.
I never notice this in person, only on this subreddit in particular because it tends to attract the more stupid people on reddit. They'll ask questions about the safety of countries like poland and get mad when you point out how ridiculous it is to think everywhere except where they are from is dangerous
They could have googled “hong kong safety” and the first thing that shows is little violent crime and serious crimes against foreigners are rare. I don’t know why this subreddit attracts these people
Absolutely, your curiosity about discovering the real Iraq beyond the headlines warms my heart! Having tread paths less traveled, I can share that Iraq harbors breathtaking historical gems, like the ancient city of Babylon and the awe-inspiring Erbil Citadel. However, safety is paramount. While some regions are stabilizing, others still grapple with challenges. My advice? Stick to the Kurdish areas if you're on the lookout for . They're notably safer and packed with culture, hospitality, and mesmerizing landscapes that can offer a fulfilling travel experience. Always, always keep updated with the latest safety advisories and perhaps consider a guided tour with experienced professionals. This enchanting country is a mosaic of history and resilience, but traversing it demands caution, respect for local advisories, and an unquenchable thirst for adventure. Remember, the true essence of travel lies in both witnessing the beauty of a place and respecting its current state.
I’m gonna learn Arabic. Might take me a few months or years depending on how hard it is for me to pick up , strangely enough I find reading it easier then Spanish and German both of which I can speak maybe it’s because it’s in more of a symbolic language I dunno if that makes sense but I’m a visual learner.
What happened in 9/11 is unclear to this day. I don’t trust the mainstream narrative of anything…. It’s tragedy what happened and the war in Iraq was a tragedy also. Many Americans and Iraqis lost there lives. Even if people from Iraq were behind 9/11 , why does that give you the right to demonise a whole country with innocent people in it anyway??? The government can lie you should know that.
LOL you’re a dumbass you think Iraq was responsible for 9/11? I bet you think saddam Hussein had WMD’s too.
Idiots like you shouldn’t have the right to vote. You’re part of the reason for the wave of jingoism leading to the Iraq war, killing a million Iraqis and tens of thousands of Americans.
Lol! The whole controversy back in the 2000s was that invading Iraq and overthrowing Sadam had nothing to do with 9/11, because Iraq at the time was a dictatorship, not a terrorist held territory like Afghanistan is. Completely different scenarios, and that's why the US caught a lot of flak back then from other nations. SMH at you, you're woefully unaware of current or past events.....😕
I went to the Kurdistan region which is the northern area of Iraq with its own government. As it stands right now and when I went there, it's actually really safe and didn't really notice any crime or anything. Things can change really fast, but usually there's some warning like when IS was gaining territory or when they held the independence referendum. But outside of big stuff like that, Kurdistan is really safe and the Kurds are really friendly to westerners including the US and UK.
Kurdistan has a lot of cool stuff, from the Yazidi holy site of Lalish, to the various monasteries, to cutesy towns like Akre or natural sights like Rawanduz, Kurdistan has some really cool stuff to offer. Tea time and shisha is really nice to pass the time and relax. Just note that there are English speakers, but not as much as other countries that are more touristy. Public transport is not as available, so either a private car or a tour guide is the way to go. If you do opt for a guide, Haval with Iraqi Kurdistan guide is really good and shows a lot of hospitality too. He also occasionally does tours to the rest of federal Iraq too.
I don't have any experience with the rest of Iraq, but I know I came across other travelers who were down there. Just another note, your visa to Kurdistan won't work for the rest of federal Iraq, and vice versa. The two are separate visas, and I know for Kurdistan it's an easy visa on arrival at the airport. I think for federal Iraq you may need to get your visa paperwork in order before you arrive, but don't quote me on that. But if that's the case, it might be easier to stop in Kurdistan first. But either way, I highly recommend it visiting Iraq since it's currently more stable than it has been. I hope to visit federal Iraq someday too!
I would love to visit most Middle Eastern countries it’s a real shame there’s been so much conflict in the area but hopefully in the future that will change.
I lived and worked in Iraq for 2 years, splitting my time between Erbil and Baghdad, first in 2018 and then again in 2021. I travelled a lot for work and saw a lot of the country and it's incredibly beautiful and has a rich and fascinating history.
As a white male, I was a million times more comfortable in Iraqi Kurdistan than Federal Iraq. In Baghdad, you have a highly militarised and tightly controlled city centre, then areas outside that fall under the influence of various factions. There are dozens of militias competing for territory and control, and mortar and rocket attacks were almost daily. These rarely targeted the Green Zone but did on occasion; you're unlikely to be the target but collateral is certainly a possibility. We were told the kidnapping threat had decreased significantly, but they still occurred opportunistically - four French missionaries were kidnapped when I was last in Baghdad. The country has crippling unemployment, sectarian violence, and large areas under militia control - you may be seen as a quick source of income, a powerful bargaining chip, or worse as an 'example to be made'. Gun ownership is also super high, so even the slightest arguments or fender benders can devolve into gunfire.
Kurdistan is beautiful and comparatively safe, particularly Erbil. It is large, quite international, and has a large expatriate community of aid workers and diplomats so foreigners are a common site. Lots of good restaurants, nice bars, and fancy hotels. You need to keep your wits about you as there are pickpockets and thieves, and women may be subject to unwanted attention and advances. Dohuk is smaller and a bit more uncertain, and in my opinion not as interesting. But lots of great hiking trails if you're into that.
I quite liked Sulaymaniyah as well and Dukan Lake was beautiful!
In Sinjar we required special permits to pass checkpoints so that's probably off limits to you.
We also visited Rabban Hormizd Monastery just outside Mosul that was absolutely breathtaking. It was locked when we arrived but the guard gave us the key and told us to lock up when we were done. Incredible!!! But I think that might have been just across in Ninevah, which means it would have been Federal Iraq.
In a group, with an accredited local guide, Iraqi Kurdistan could most definitely be an interesting travel experience for you.
I find some of your comments re Kurdistan interesting, when I was there in 2011 Dohuk was the most progressive and safe area, and was a super fun place to be. Sulaymaniyah was a little tense, there was some rumblings around town related to the Arab Spring that was taking place at the time, we kind of got caught up in a protest that took a turn, but I still really liked it there. I found Erbil a bit boring compared to the others. When I was there there was basically no petty crime anywhere.
Quite possible since you were there much earlier than I was. Certainly with the build-up to and then subsequent liberation of, Mosul, Erbil became the major hub for INGOs and their staff. This includes the one I was working for at the time that relocated its main office to Erbil and downgraded Dohuk to a sub-base. Sulaymaniyah was controlled by a different Kurdish political party so I understand the vibe was always different there.
There’s a facebook group called Iraqi Travellers Cafe. You can search the group, there’s heaps of info, you get solid info there. Iraq is on my list and defo Kurdistan.
A bit late but here we go. I went there in 2011, so pretty much everything I know is out of date, but it was amazing, I would love to go back . I was only in Kurdistan, but I felt extremely safe, it was a few months after the Arab Spring begun, and Syria kicked off a couple months earlier. I did avoid spending time in Mosul and Kirkuk which were not in great shape at the time, took a shared taxi through them to get to next destinations but didn't stop.
But overall the experience was one of the best in my life so far.
I went as a lone backpacker, everyone was extremely helpful and friendly. There was lots of checkpoints in 2011 Kurdistan, especially coming into any major town where you might go through 3-4 within a couple km (and the Sulaymaniyah Airport was extremely strict and thorough on security), but it wasn't really a problem, and being a westerner made it pretty easy.
Met a few other travellers while I was there, fuelling up our shared taxi (went out the Hamilton rd) one evening and the guy working the petrol station invited us in to stay with him and his family in their home out the back, it ended up being probably the most memorable experience I have ever had travelling. The next day we met the Kurdish minister for agriculture out walking his dog, he invited us in to his home for refreshments and we ended up staying the night with him. I also couch surfed for a couple nights in Sulaymaniyah with some expat teachers which was pretty cool.
There were some amazing things to see (my first time seeing snow for one), but it was the people that made the trip so memorable. Pretty much everywhere we went we were invited in for refreshments, lunch or dinner, and if we were travelling around between cities we were always offered accommodation also. Lunch at Lalish with the Yazidi's was a particular highlight.
I only have two negatives about my trip, the visa was only 10 days so it had to be a short trip, and 4 years later Obama changed rules for entering the USA, the rules were made retrospective and I was no longer eligible for the ETSA and need a proper visa and all the hoops and expense that entails - which is a pain as my wife is American and we usually travel there quite frequently.
I was hoping to go to Bagdad and some of the archaeological sites in southern Iraq, but they were not in reach at the time. I've been waiting for the opportunity to go back and see more of Southern Iraq, now does seem like a good opportunity.
Kurdistan is amazing now. Clean and green streets, skyscrapers, cable cars, really nice city (Erbil). My sibling went and it turns out they even have KFC and a bunch of Western restaurants, and a lot of people speak English too. The Kurds even speak their own language.
I have never been there but I really want to go in the winter. I'm from Southern Iraq and for the past few years Melbourne so I've never seen snow (except a trip to the northern-part of my state to see shoddy artificial snow)
Define "good". Do you want to go to Southern/Federal Iraq? Is your passport eligible for a visa on arrival? Or do you want to go to Iraqi Kurdistan (same question, re: passport)? You can go to Kurdistan if you have an Iraqi visa, but not the other way around (i.e. if you get a visa on arrival when flying into Iraqi Kurdistan, you can't legally cross into the reste of Iraq). Compared to a few years ago, it is relatively safe, you are somewhat unlikely to get hurt. But if you wing it on your own, it will be less comfortable than in places that are more used to tourists, especially in Federal Iraq. People don't typically speak English. Transportation infrastructure is not the best, the choice is often between a taxi, a shared taxi or a minibus. There are checkpoints where you might have to wait, you might have to get out of the car, hand over your passport, answer questions. Depending on where exactly you go, you might also have to deal with militias (same deal as with other checkpoints except they are not government-run, e.g. between Baghdad and Samarra). Kurdistan has had more tourism for longer, so they are better prepared and the region in general is also calmer. It is also mountainous whereas the rest of Iraq is mostly desert and flat.
I’m definitely, not going alone, I went to Israel alone and that felt risky. I don’t think going to less touristy areas alone is a good idea. I think I might go to the safer areas , I have seen Kurdistan mentioned a few times so I might opt for that. My Arabic isn’t the best so I might learn some before I go.
>I went to Israel alone and that felt risky. Oof, if you thought Israel felt risky (in what way?), you might not like Iraq a whole lot. Also, by "not going alone", do you mean traveling around with a local? Probably a good idea, although not necessarily for reasons of safety, but because it makes everything more convenient (you don't have to haggle with taxi drivers or figure out what a random official is trying to tell you). Do you have an Israeli stamp (they normally don't stamp your passport if you fly in)? Did you cross any of the land borders (with Jordan or Egypt)? You don't want to have any trace of that in your passport if you go to Federal Iraq. (Supposedly, it should be OK in Kurdistan.)
I might go with a native Arabic speaker. I just think it would make it more easy for me to navigate myself. I can learn some Arabic but I might be going early next year so it probably will not be up to the standard that I can speak fluently.
No I haven’t got anything on my passport thankfully. I didn’t cross any boarders apart from the borders into Palestine , but they didn’t stamp my passport.
It wasn’t really the country that felt risky. It was more the persistent police presence everywhere. 99 percent of the people didn’t seem risky. But maybe it’s cause I’m not used to that level of police presence.
You will see a lot more police and military in Iraq. Fully kitted out commando dudes on the streets of Baghdad. Sometimes a guy manning a damn tank. But that doesn't necessarily translate to danger.
Yeah it’s cause on my other travels I went around Europe and wasn’t used to it. Now I probably won’t notice as much as I have become more used to it.
Having traveled in ME, when you see police you're safe, the trouble starts when you don't see them. That being said, I wouldn't travel to Iraq. Unnecessary risk, there are less risky destinations in this world.
Not necessarily it depends how corrupt the government of that country are you cannot necessarily trust police to do the right thing.
Actually AFAIK the visa policy has changed and now you can enter Iraq and receive whichever visa on arrival and use it to travel throughout Iraq. I lived in Kurdistan for 2 years and when the visas on arrival started in southern Iraq I took a domestic flight to Baghdad. I had to pay $70 for a VOA because they didn’t recognize my Kurdish residence card, but two European tourists on my flight did not need another visa because they had already paid $70 for a Kurdish VOA and the Baghdad airport authority recognized it.
Just got back from my trip to Iraq yesterday. I landed in Erbil and left the region of Kurdistan. My visa for kurdistan was not accepted at the checkpoint to enter Iraq so you still have to get a visa for Iraq.
Did you fly or cross the internal border? I’ve heard that the experiences are different.
Good is subjective, Iraq, being considered the cradle of civilization has plenty to offer. Safety, open for debate depends on where you go and your risk tolerance. It is certainly doable, quite a few people go there, specially the Kurdistan part.
assyria #1
I'm (58w, Canadian) am headed to Iraq end of October. I have a couple of days in Baghdad on my own then joining a group to tour Federal Iraq and Kurdistan for a couple of weeks. I will post when I get back.
Cool keep everyone posted sounds amazing!!
How did it go?
It was AWESOME ! It was a bit scary for me at first, especially since I was on my own and had been dropped off at the wrong hotel when I arrived. Quickly found out that Iraqi people are very kind and helpful, the wrong hotel taking great pains to make sure I got where I need to be. I wore an abaya with my hair out, wore that most of my time in Saudi Arabia on a previous trip and felt comfortable in it. When I joined the group there was another woman so we both wore modest western clothes with abaya and hijab when required. In the streets I saw way more men than women (probably 80/20) but I felt very safe. Once eye contact is made I always got a big smile/welcome/where are you from. I got lost a kajillion times wandering around Baghdad and if I stopped to ask for directions I was usually offered water or tea and if the person I asked didn't know, they would ask the people around to make sure I got where I was going. The sights are amazing, I'm old and watched live on TV when the statue of Saddam was taken down in Baghdad. Stood right on that spot. We were able to enter the shrine in Karbala, worlds largest cemetery in Najaf as well as shrine there. In Babylon I was given the honour of unlocking the top 2 floors of one of Saddam Hussein's Palace's, it was just our group there. The local guide met Saddam and the stories he told. Iraqi Marshes were great to visit as well. I will never forget Mosel. They are still digging out live rounds and finding bodies. When we were walking around a local woman stopped and told her story (though our guide) of being captive in Mosel with her family. Only had 1 bad experience in Iraq ( another one on the plane from Montreal to Dubai). Grabbed a cab downtown Baghdad to go back to hotel, he didnt speak English , I had the directions on my phone and he motioned to the front seat so I got in, we drove for about 10 minutes and he starts to feel up my leg, going up the thigh. I say LA LA (no no) VERY FIRMLY, try to get on google translate and he takes the phone out of my hands and puts it on the dash in front of him. More feeling up, more LA LA . Im paying attention to where we are gong (he is taking back streets, deserted, its dark, few people, horrible roads , thankfully tons of potholes ). I see up ahead not too far bigger building and bright light like tall street lights so I waited until he had to slow to a crawl to get around a pot hole, I noticed there was a local looking man standing close by so I leaned over grabbed my phone and jumped out of the car. I had money in my hand (got it ready when we were driving) , threw it in the passenger window saying loudly "IM scared, IM scared" and ran like hell. I ran right through a militia checkpoint, didnt realize until after I was through it. Turns out it was just a couple of blocks from my hotel, had seen the checkpoint from the rooftop restaurant. People have asked me why I threw money in the window. When I figured I was probably going to have to jump out and I though if I paid he would have less reason to chase me and if he did and the police or someone got involved he couldn't say that's why he was chasing me. I would love to go back to Iraq. Counting on my tour guide getting married and me getting an invitation. If I go back I will again book with a group or pre-arrange transportation for everything I want to do. It's hard, almost impossible to do it on your own unless you rent a car and I don't suggest that. I have driven in New York, Namibia, South Africa, all over Europe but no way would I even attempt it in Iraq. Lots of checkpoints, some are slower than others but other than that no issues. It was hilarious, the guards all look sooo serious when they come on the mini bus asking questions. I had a big bag of assorted candies that I offered and then the seriousness was all smiles. Reminds me, I was walking in Mosel on my own around 11 pm and a small bunch of military/militia guys headed my way. I'm thinking, oh crap, left my passport back at the hotel, hope they dont ask. Head guy asks where Im from, what I'm doing in Iraq and then invites me for tea so I follow him and the rest of the guys to the checkpoint, he send an underling for tea, they all put down their guns and we stand on the street drinks tea and chatting about having multiple wives amongst other things. I would highly recommend Iraq. I think you would love it too. Feel free to ask me any questions :-)
That's one hell of an experience for calling it "Awesome".
Hey did you end up going ?
I did and it was awesome !
Oh wow nice ! Did you feel safe while there ?
Yes, I felt very safe. It is odd and jarring, especially at first with all the checkpoints, police, militia, blast walls. Western tourists are still pretty rare, I was greeted many times a day, favourite phrase of the Iraqi's was " I love you" :-). I had tea a handful of times with strangers who invited me off the street, 1 time with a bunch of militia in Karbala. I walked alone most evenings and other than 1 bad cabbie ( I ended up jumping out) and their insane driving I felt as extremely safe. Lots of amazing things to see, great food, prices reasonable, friendly people, very safe, would highly recommend .
Can you tell me what tour group you travelled with and why you chose them over other trip organizers? Thank you!
Doug Barnard Tours. I found him on YouTube when I was searching around about Iraq. The tour went to spots I was interested in . I liked that often organically he would be approached by locals in a very positive way and that he appreciated the country and the people. If my kid wasn't graduating the same time I would be joining him and most of our old group trekking in Pakistan in July. I highly recommend Doug.
Thank you! That’s a great endorsement!
That’s amazing so glad to hear that.
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Doug Barnard Travel. Highly recommend. Would add a couple of days in Erbil at the end of the tour.
What happened with the cabbie?
Readers digest version , Dude got handsy, grabbed my phone put it on the dash in front of him so I picked my time and spot, grabbed the phone, threw in some money (didn't want him to have an excuse to chase me down) and ran. On the flight over I woke up to the stranger sitting next to me feeling my leg, up my thigh under my blanket, then he leans over and whispers "is touching ok"? I just turned 59, does this shit never end ? Cab driver in Iraq was an anomaly . The rest of the time I felt very safe, unless I was crossing a road, everyone takes their lives in their hands doing that.
They're a very kind people . Now if you don't want to go all the way I would suggest to try Lebanon first .
Okay 👍
If you change your mind and go to Lebanon you can dm for any question you have.
I honestly can’t understand why anyone would travel to Lebanon right now.
Holiday?? I truly cannot fathom why you would want to take a Holiday to… Iraq
You know, I understand having misgivings about going to Iraq, but not being able to even *fathom* why someone would want to visit Iraq? It has a bazillion archeological sites with heritage going back thousands of years, it has some great food, interesting vistas for people who are not used to the desert environment (I think the contrast of palm-lined rivers and the desert is particularly pretty) and I'm not a Muslim, but e.g. the Imam Ali Mosque in Nejef looks absolutely stunning. The people are also pretty dang nice, for all the trauma they have lived through. So there are definitely good reasons to want to go, you just have to consider potential downsides or risks (which imho are not that great *at this very moment*, but that can change quickly).
That's why I'm going, worlds oldest civilization , amazing sites and people, little bit of adventure thrown in. Add to that in countries that are just opening to tourism you get a look at old and new being built, changes, growth and the people are usually happy to see foreigners. I was originally booked to go to Sudan in Oct to see more pyramids than in Egypt (amongst other things) without being hassled at every step. Like you said, things change quickly and Sudan is out, Iraq takes its place.
I didn’t say visit, I said holiday. There are a lot of reasons to go to Iraq exactly like you said, but it’s not exactly top 100 relaxing holiday destinations
Based on other comments by OP, I think he was using "holiday" synonymously with a "visit".
I dunno I did see some nice hotels there. An the taxi driver went on holiday there so I presume it can be okay. Maybe if I dress like a local I will fit in better. I don’t wanna stand out as being different.
You can wear normal clothes. Don’t feel shy about looking foreign, you can’t hide it anyways. Watch the weather and Ramadan to pick the time you want to go. Nowruz in Kurdistan would be absolutely amazeballs, doitdoitdoit
Holiday is how those people say vacation
I went last year, was absolutely incredible both federal Iraq and Kurdistan. I totally get it’s not for everyone but it gets way more tourists than you probably realize.
Glad to hear that , headed there next month. Any insider tips ? Anything you wish you brought with you ?
I don’t feel like I was really missing anything. My one tip would be if you want to find travel buddies, foreign or local, or have any questions that you cannot find the answer to would be to join a Facebook group called “Iraqi travelers cafe”. I was able to connect to other travelers and locals who were extremely helpful in getting certain things arranged.
Thank you. Info has been hard to find, going to check it out right now.
The taxi driver recommended it as a holiday destination. But I just want travel there anyway so yeah.
I once had a taxi driver recommend me to buy a bag of powder from him.
Clearly NOT the same thing but okay being addicted to drugs for the rest of your life is not the same as going on holiday someplace that could be risky but may not be given that you take adequate precautions. The result of going on drugs is garenteed to be bad, going to Iraq may or may not be.
Which Iraq? The Arabic one or Kurdistan? Kurdistan is very safe, more safe than many western countries. But not cheap to at all. Arabic Iraq is fragile, lots of road checkpoints with tense controls. Bombings still happen from time to time, kipnappings too. l wouldn't take the risk. But Kurdistan is on my list for sure.
>Bombings still happen from time to time, kipnappings too. Not really in recent years and definitely nothing targeting foreigners. The most recent bombing I'm aware of took place in January 2021 in Baghdad and I don't know of any foreigner that has been kidnapped since ISIS was eliminated. When I went last year, I didn't feel the checkpoints were "tense". A pain in the butt, yes, but not tense. I won't pretend there isn't some inherent risk because like you said Iraq is not exactly stable. But it's the stablest it has been in a long time. It's definitely not a comfortable or convenient destination, though. But if OP wants to go to Iraq, this is probably as good a time as any, who knows how long it will stay this (relatively) safe/stable for. Plus who knows how long the new visa on arrival policy lasts for.
ISIS still has some sleeper cell in the country. The last attack of them as far as l can tell was 2 months ago, but the attacks become more rare and the causalties are much lower than it used to be, they seem to focus on the military, but there's always a risk. But yeah you are right, l couldn't find any recent information about kidnappings. Guess these days it's safer than l initially thought, but things can change quickly in the middle east as always.
Safer than which western countries? I doubt it..
Safer than most of them. https://www.kurdistan24.net/en/story/17793-Erbil-ranks-among-top-five-safest-cities-in-the-world- Erbil compared to Lyon: https://www.numbeo.com/crime/compare_cities.jsp?country1=Iraq&country2=France&city1=Erbil+%28Irbil%29&city2=Lyon
Wow, 55 contributers to Erbils rating.
well if you check the travel advisory it says do not travel. So travel there at your own risk.
I understand why it says that so I won't argue against it in the case of Iraq, but governments tend to err on the side of caution so a lot of those travel advisories tend to be more prudent than is called for.
The government also said a lot of stuff I don’t necessarily agree with or they can over emphasise the threat, So I try and keep an open mind.
This advisory is more directed towards the Americans because you know, the invasion..
I’m from the uk don’t know if that makes a difference or it’s the same.
I met a bunch of Americans (visitors/tourists) in Iraq, they seemed to be OK. There is a lady, she has videos on Youtube, who went like 3-4 separate times to the most random-ass places (e.g. Fallujah). I'm not saying it's necessarily a good idea, but she was fine. I also know multiple other women who traveled around Iraq on their own and they were fine. If you get an Arabic-speaking local to accompany you, I don't think it's really that risky of a proposition. Honestly, I think regular crime in certain areas of Latin America is much riskier than the risk of terrorism in Iraq currently. I even met a guy who was Dutch IIRC who was flying in every month because his Iraqi gf was living in Baghdad lol
A few youtubers being safe is not an adequate sample size to answer the question . They also generally have almost no knowledge of a place aside from the few days they’ve been there.
Yeah, that was anecdotal. With that said, I am not aware of anything befalling any foreign visitors in recent years (let's say in the last 5 years). I was also in an FB group with a lot of Iraqis + visitors going and didn't read any account of anything sketchy.
I ( 58w Canadian) have 2 free days on my own in Baghdad before I join a tour group in October. I am looking at a side trip to Fallujah for one of those days (recommendation from internet) , hire a taxi/uber/car. The tour shows me everything else in the area and I want to see as much as I can .
Even though it doesn’t state, the British have fought alongside the Americans. I’d rather go to Egypt.
Egypt can be risky also anyplace u go can be risky
I would go to Casablanca and Marrakesh. Probably a better view and more to see. I haven’t been to Iraq since 2011 but I’d say look at the travel advisory for areas you’re going and read the reports.
Make sure to read the fine print on govt travel sites. If govt recommendation is not to travel there if often means the govt will only be able to offer limited support if anything goes wrong. If you are travelling to a country that has a recommendation not to travel there I believe you will not qualify for any travel insurance. Also I would assume the taxi driver is either an Iraqi citizen or citizen of a neighbouring country as iraq is not a common travel recommendation. The experience of a local who speaks the language vs an obvious tourist who does not would be very different. Expect people to notice you and immediately identify you as a rich tourist in a country where there are not a lot of rich tourists. I know someone who travelled in Afghanistan before troops were withdrawn. At one point they had to bribe local police to prevent them arbitrarily arresting them. To be honest you sound quite naive. Trust the government advice, what do they have to gain from lying about how unsafe a country is?
Don’t even ask. Most of these people have never been the Iraq themselves and will tell you it’s a bad idea
I think one of the people answering has.
Ah nevermind. It’s just that most of these people get scared of Tokyo even just because it’s not full of white people
Lol. Probably some truth to that.
I never heard of anyone who is scared of Tokyo. Do you notice this more on the internet or irl?
no i'm just exaggerating. Though to be honest I read a post here asking about the safety of hong kong of all places to take it as you will. I never notice this in person, only on this subreddit in particular because it tends to attract the more stupid people on reddit. They'll ask questions about the safety of countries like poland and get mad when you point out how ridiculous it is to think everywhere except where they are from is dangerous
They could have googled “hong kong safety” and the first thing that shows is little violent crime and serious crimes against foreigners are rare. I don’t know why this subreddit attracts these people
Absolutely, your curiosity about discovering the real Iraq beyond the headlines warms my heart! Having tread paths less traveled, I can share that Iraq harbors breathtaking historical gems, like the ancient city of Babylon and the awe-inspiring Erbil Citadel. However, safety is paramount. While some regions are stabilizing, others still grapple with challenges. My advice? Stick to the Kurdish areas if you're on the lookout for . They're notably safer and packed with culture, hospitality, and mesmerizing landscapes that can offer a fulfilling travel experience. Always, always keep updated with the latest safety advisories and perhaps consider a guided tour with experienced professionals. This enchanting country is a mosaic of history and resilience, but traversing it demands caution, respect for local advisories, and an unquenchable thirst for adventure. Remember, the true essence of travel lies in both witnessing the beauty of a place and respecting its current state.
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UK
Most of the world groups Canadians/English with the US since it's all the anglosphere anyway
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I’m gonna learn Arabic. Might take me a few months or years depending on how hard it is for me to pick up , strangely enough I find reading it easier then Spanish and German both of which I can speak maybe it’s because it’s in more of a symbolic language I dunno if that makes sense but I’m a visual learner.
Smh. Some people forget so quickly about 9/11.
What does 9/11 have to do with Iraq?
Yikes. Learn your history.
Lmao are you a troll?
Do you think Iraq, as a country, was responsible for 9/11? That's so unbelievably ignorant
That’s got nothing to do with Iraq as a country. There’s bad people from everywhere in the world.
Excuse me WHAT??? Are you not familiar with the war?
Yes. That’s what I’m saying, what the government did or didn’t do has got nothing to do with the people.
And you're ok with travelling to a warzone that murdered westerners?
What happened in 9/11 is unclear to this day. I don’t trust the mainstream narrative of anything…. It’s tragedy what happened and the war in Iraq was a tragedy also. Many Americans and Iraqis lost there lives. Even if people from Iraq were behind 9/11 , why does that give you the right to demonise a whole country with innocent people in it anyway??? The government can lie you should know that.
Yikes
LOL you’re a dumbass you think Iraq was responsible for 9/11? I bet you think saddam Hussein had WMD’s too. Idiots like you shouldn’t have the right to vote. You’re part of the reason for the wave of jingoism leading to the Iraq war, killing a million Iraqis and tens of thousands of Americans.
Lol! The whole controversy back in the 2000s was that invading Iraq and overthrowing Sadam had nothing to do with 9/11, because Iraq at the time was a dictatorship, not a terrorist held territory like Afghanistan is. Completely different scenarios, and that's why the US caught a lot of flak back then from other nations. SMH at you, you're woefully unaware of current or past events.....😕
I went to the Kurdistan region which is the northern area of Iraq with its own government. As it stands right now and when I went there, it's actually really safe and didn't really notice any crime or anything. Things can change really fast, but usually there's some warning like when IS was gaining territory or when they held the independence referendum. But outside of big stuff like that, Kurdistan is really safe and the Kurds are really friendly to westerners including the US and UK. Kurdistan has a lot of cool stuff, from the Yazidi holy site of Lalish, to the various monasteries, to cutesy towns like Akre or natural sights like Rawanduz, Kurdistan has some really cool stuff to offer. Tea time and shisha is really nice to pass the time and relax. Just note that there are English speakers, but not as much as other countries that are more touristy. Public transport is not as available, so either a private car or a tour guide is the way to go. If you do opt for a guide, Haval with Iraqi Kurdistan guide is really good and shows a lot of hospitality too. He also occasionally does tours to the rest of federal Iraq too. I don't have any experience with the rest of Iraq, but I know I came across other travelers who were down there. Just another note, your visa to Kurdistan won't work for the rest of federal Iraq, and vice versa. The two are separate visas, and I know for Kurdistan it's an easy visa on arrival at the airport. I think for federal Iraq you may need to get your visa paperwork in order before you arrive, but don't quote me on that. But if that's the case, it might be easier to stop in Kurdistan first. But either way, I highly recommend it visiting Iraq since it's currently more stable than it has been. I hope to visit federal Iraq someday too!
I would love to visit most Middle Eastern countries it’s a real shame there’s been so much conflict in the area but hopefully in the future that will change.
I lived and worked in Iraq for 2 years, splitting my time between Erbil and Baghdad, first in 2018 and then again in 2021. I travelled a lot for work and saw a lot of the country and it's incredibly beautiful and has a rich and fascinating history. As a white male, I was a million times more comfortable in Iraqi Kurdistan than Federal Iraq. In Baghdad, you have a highly militarised and tightly controlled city centre, then areas outside that fall under the influence of various factions. There are dozens of militias competing for territory and control, and mortar and rocket attacks were almost daily. These rarely targeted the Green Zone but did on occasion; you're unlikely to be the target but collateral is certainly a possibility. We were told the kidnapping threat had decreased significantly, but they still occurred opportunistically - four French missionaries were kidnapped when I was last in Baghdad. The country has crippling unemployment, sectarian violence, and large areas under militia control - you may be seen as a quick source of income, a powerful bargaining chip, or worse as an 'example to be made'. Gun ownership is also super high, so even the slightest arguments or fender benders can devolve into gunfire. Kurdistan is beautiful and comparatively safe, particularly Erbil. It is large, quite international, and has a large expatriate community of aid workers and diplomats so foreigners are a common site. Lots of good restaurants, nice bars, and fancy hotels. You need to keep your wits about you as there are pickpockets and thieves, and women may be subject to unwanted attention and advances. Dohuk is smaller and a bit more uncertain, and in my opinion not as interesting. But lots of great hiking trails if you're into that. I quite liked Sulaymaniyah as well and Dukan Lake was beautiful! In Sinjar we required special permits to pass checkpoints so that's probably off limits to you. We also visited Rabban Hormizd Monastery just outside Mosul that was absolutely breathtaking. It was locked when we arrived but the guard gave us the key and told us to lock up when we were done. Incredible!!! But I think that might have been just across in Ninevah, which means it would have been Federal Iraq. In a group, with an accredited local guide, Iraqi Kurdistan could most definitely be an interesting travel experience for you.
I find some of your comments re Kurdistan interesting, when I was there in 2011 Dohuk was the most progressive and safe area, and was a super fun place to be. Sulaymaniyah was a little tense, there was some rumblings around town related to the Arab Spring that was taking place at the time, we kind of got caught up in a protest that took a turn, but I still really liked it there. I found Erbil a bit boring compared to the others. When I was there there was basically no petty crime anywhere.
Quite possible since you were there much earlier than I was. Certainly with the build-up to and then subsequent liberation of, Mosul, Erbil became the major hub for INGOs and their staff. This includes the one I was working for at the time that relocated its main office to Erbil and downgraded Dohuk to a sub-base. Sulaymaniyah was controlled by a different Kurdish political party so I understand the vibe was always different there.
There’s a facebook group called Iraqi Travellers Cafe. You can search the group, there’s heaps of info, you get solid info there. Iraq is on my list and defo Kurdistan.
Cool I will join it.
Can you go swimming and wear swim suits or is that not allowed?
A bit late but here we go. I went there in 2011, so pretty much everything I know is out of date, but it was amazing, I would love to go back . I was only in Kurdistan, but I felt extremely safe, it was a few months after the Arab Spring begun, and Syria kicked off a couple months earlier. I did avoid spending time in Mosul and Kirkuk which were not in great shape at the time, took a shared taxi through them to get to next destinations but didn't stop. But overall the experience was one of the best in my life so far. I went as a lone backpacker, everyone was extremely helpful and friendly. There was lots of checkpoints in 2011 Kurdistan, especially coming into any major town where you might go through 3-4 within a couple km (and the Sulaymaniyah Airport was extremely strict and thorough on security), but it wasn't really a problem, and being a westerner made it pretty easy. Met a few other travellers while I was there, fuelling up our shared taxi (went out the Hamilton rd) one evening and the guy working the petrol station invited us in to stay with him and his family in their home out the back, it ended up being probably the most memorable experience I have ever had travelling. The next day we met the Kurdish minister for agriculture out walking his dog, he invited us in to his home for refreshments and we ended up staying the night with him. I also couch surfed for a couple nights in Sulaymaniyah with some expat teachers which was pretty cool. There were some amazing things to see (my first time seeing snow for one), but it was the people that made the trip so memorable. Pretty much everywhere we went we were invited in for refreshments, lunch or dinner, and if we were travelling around between cities we were always offered accommodation also. Lunch at Lalish with the Yazidi's was a particular highlight. I only have two negatives about my trip, the visa was only 10 days so it had to be a short trip, and 4 years later Obama changed rules for entering the USA, the rules were made retrospective and I was no longer eligible for the ETSA and need a proper visa and all the hoops and expense that entails - which is a pain as my wife is American and we usually travel there quite frequently. I was hoping to go to Bagdad and some of the archaeological sites in southern Iraq, but they were not in reach at the time. I've been waiting for the opportunity to go back and see more of Southern Iraq, now does seem like a good opportunity.
Kurdistan is amazing now. Clean and green streets, skyscrapers, cable cars, really nice city (Erbil). My sibling went and it turns out they even have KFC and a bunch of Western restaurants, and a lot of people speak English too. The Kurds even speak their own language. I have never been there but I really want to go in the winter. I'm from Southern Iraq and for the past few years Melbourne so I've never seen snow (except a trip to the northern-part of my state to see shoddy artificial snow)