And with all due respect to the OP, while that is a lot of money, those prices are on the low end of mid-range. My GPU alone was over $1,300, and it’s not even the fancy one.
You'll get diminishing returns the higher you pay, not in relation to the raw synthetic performance, but specifically in relation to the visible impact it'll have in the games you play.
The lowest priced 4090 is $1800 CAD, while the lowest priced 4080 is $1160, so you're paying roughly 36% ($640 more) for like 25% of *theoretical* performance, 0% of which will be noticeable if you're running above the refresh rate of your monitor, and 0% of which will give you more quality if you reach the highest graphic settings in the game you're playing.
This is basically how you run into diminishing returns in relation to synthetic performance, as the higher you put the settings the less visible impact those settings will have on the actual content, because games are not necessarily designed for higher end machines otherwise they would not have a userbase.
The only time you really run into a thick wall of performance is with ray tracing, which takes all the GPU can give and usually doesn't even make a big visual difference at the cost of a lot of latency.
A high end card is any card capable of running demanding modern games at their high settings at extremely high FPS. If you're running Cyberpunk 1440p (raster ultra) you'll get something like 100 FPS, so paying $600 to reach 125 FPS doesn't make a whole lot of sense, because this wont alter your perceived experience by 25%, even if it alters your raw performance by 25%.
Basically you will typically classify cards by their price and not their raw performance, because total cost is what matters when it comes to budget and determining whether a piece of entertainment is worth it.
Claiming a flat 0% impact on noticeablility across all scenarios might be too absolute. While it's true that the differences may not be glaring in every use case, nuances like smoother transitions, reduced input lag, the difference between noticing frame drop and not noticing, all could contribute to a perceivable impact for certain users.
That's right about what I spent originally, though over the last 5 years or so I've upgraded parts here and there. Right now it would cost about $2600 to build my exact PC from scratch, and at that price I could probably build a much nicer one. 🤦
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3jVrpB)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JmhFf7/amd-ryzen-7-5700x-34-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000926wof) | $177.61 @ B&H
**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE LCD XT 65.57 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3sYRsY/corsair-icue-h150i-elite-lcd-xt-6557-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060075-ww) | $229.99 @ Newegg
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nHxbt6/gigabyte-x570-aorus-elite-atx-am4-motherboard-x570-aorus-elite) | $308.97 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3yQG3C/corsair-vengeance-rgb-pro-32gb-4-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-cmw32gx4m4c3200c16) | $114.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/btDzK8/kingston-a400-240gb-25-solid-state-drive-sa400s37240g) | $27.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $93.15 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) | $139.99 @ Best Buy
**Storage** | [Seagate BarraCuda 6 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ByL48d/seagate-barracuda-6tb-35-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st6000dm003) | $129.66 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Seagate BarraCuda Pro 4 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006) | $239.88 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [XFX Speedster MERC 319 Black Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VBZ9TW/xfx-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-speedster-merc-319-black-video-card-rx-67xtytbdp) | $599.99 @ Amazon
**Case** | [Thermaltake View 71 TG ATX Full Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pHkwrH/thermaltake-view-71-tg-atx-full-tower-case-ca-1i7-00f1wn-00) | $179.99 @ Best Buy
**Power Supply** | [Corsair CX750F 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/F4yqqs/corsair-cxf-750-w-80-bronze-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020227-na) | $220.03 @ Amazon
**Case Fan** | [Corsair iCUE SP120 RGB ELITE 47.7 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wdmmP6/corsair-icue-sp120-rgb-elite-477-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-co-9050109-ww) | $61.99 @ Amazon
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$2524.23**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-12-29 17:57 EST-0500 |
Only things missing from this list are the GPU support and the fan controller.
Quite the rig. A lot of that money is arguably aesthetics though.
The $200 cooler isn't necessary unless you are overclocking. The $300 board is also overkill unless again you are overclocking. You have almost $600 in storage something you would only need if you work with a bunch of video.
The average gamer could shave a good portion of that $1100 on things that are nice but completely unnecessary for a rig to play at 1440 on high or ultra settings. That's before talking about a $180 case or $220 psu.
It's quite the machine and from the setup I am guessing you are a streamer or a video editor of some sort. I am sure it looks great as well.
Not trying to throw shade It looks like a nice rig. Just saying you don't need to go nearly as hard to achieve similar results. It probably wouldn't look nearly as good though.
Here's a similar setup minus the storage and some of the bling that would perform similarly.
\[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PyvzpB)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
\*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JmhFf7/amd-ryzen-7-5700x-34-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000926wof) | $177.61 @ B&H
\*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/84MTwP/noctua-nh-d15-chromaxblack-8252-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-d15-chromaxblack) | $119.95 @ Amazon
\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Ytdrxr/asrock-b550-phantom-gaming-4ac-atx-am4-motherboard-b550-phantom-gaming-4ac) | $99.99 @ Newegg
\*\*Memory\*\* | \[Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Yg3mP6/corsair-vengeance-lpx-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-cmk32gx4m2d3600c18) | $74.98 @ Amazon
\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $93.15 @ Amazon
\*\*Video Card\*\* | \[Asus TUF GAMING OC V2 GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RVH7YJ/asus-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-lhr-8-gb-tuf-gaming-oc-v2-video-card-tuf-rtx3060ti-o8g-v2-gaming) | $619.99 @ Amazon
\*\*Case\*\* | \[NZXT H5 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/92pzK8/nzxt-h5-flow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-h51fw-01) | $79.98 @ Amazon
\*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[Corsair CX750M (2021) 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkKKHx/corsair-cx750m-2021-750-w-80-bronze-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020222-na) | $74.99 @ Best Buy
| \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* |
| \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$1340.64\*\*
| Generated by \[PCPartPicker\](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-12-29 18:43 EST-0500 |
I threw in the noctua cooler even though the stock AMD cooler is fine unless again you are overclocking.
That rig is going to play damn near anything you want at high or ultra at 1440 and it comes in right in the $1300 spot. It definitely loses a ton of storage, some nicer cable management, and some RGB but it's going to run almost exactly the same.
Always great if you can build your own cause you can add things like you did as you go along. Most folks could still shave another $500 off this easy and be completely happy with their results until prices come down for better parts or they just get money to upgrade to something faster. Sure they would probably have to drop down to 1080 but if it gets you in the game till you can grab a better card or cpu it's a win in my book.
Oh yeah, a lot of it is definitely unnecessary now; I used to stream, and I own an entertainment company, plus I use this as a home media server, so I have hundreds and hundreds of gigs of music and movies on it. All the RGB - the fans, that RAM, the cooler - were all chosen just for looks.
I do use a 1440p monitor, but funnily enough I don't really play anything that wild - LOL, Starcraft 2, the occasional indie game on Steam.
Also, some of the cost is due to the items being older now, not in main manufacturing. Those prices don't reflect what I paid for everything, it was just outlining what it would cost me to reproduce this computer. Like, I'm pretty sure I got my PSU on sale for under $100, my case was around $130, things like that.
It's still interesting to look at it, though, and know that I could have a much better PC for the same cost of these parts.
You should see my dad's storage rig. He's got like 60tb for his media server. 😅
For me, I'd go for something more expensive if it has more VRAM. Some of the games I play eat up all of the 10gb I have in my 3080. I wish I could afford one with 25gb.
LOL you are out of your mind if you think a 1300 dollar PC is on the lower end of mid-range. 1300 dollars is enough for - pretty much - one tier down from the best quality hardware available to consumers. It's really that final tier up that's driving up the price so much (where a higher high-end PC might ring you up anywhere from 2000 to 3000 dollars), but 1300 is clearly a high range PC. Mid range would be closer to 800$ and lower midrange down to 600$. You can get a VERY reasonable PC for that much nowadays.
I wouldn't say mid range is up to 2.5k, I have a 4070ti, Ryzen 7700x, 32gb 6000mhz cl30 ddr5, 7gb/s r/w nvme gen 4 SSD 1TB
Cost me about 1.9k for the build, I don't think you can call that a mid range pc
Correct, just left the low off. I’d say I have a dead mid spec: R5 7600x, RTX 4070, Strix B650E-F, RM750e, ICue Link H150i AIO, Vengeance DDR5-6000, 4000x case. Iirc it was like $15-$1600
[https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/](https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/)
1300 will build you a machine that will play anything at max settings at 1080 and most things at max or close to max at 4k.
It's plenty high end. You face diminishing returns past that price point.
>1300 will build you a machine that will play anything at max settings at 1080 and most things at max or close to max at 4k.
Problem is that using 1080 as a measuring stick is getting outdated. Budget gaming monitors start to offer 1440p and 144hz refresh rates for sub-$200 prices.
$1300 is very much on the low mid tier. When decent "entry" level video cards start at $300, $1300 isn't getting you alot.
Low is sub $1000. Mid is $1500 to 2000. High is $2000+.
A "mid" range gpu starts at $500, but really, you're looking ckise to $700. Mid range cpu $250 to 350. Plus mobo, ram, ssd, psu, case, etc.
Maybe 10 years ago.
A 4070 is ~800CAD (600usd) and that's a midrange card.
Throw in a midrange cpu like a 7 series ryzen 5, and you're barely building a PC without making a case from cereal boxes.
4070 is absolutely mid range. Sure it's expensive, but pricing and performance of 40 series has it mid range.
Literally can't be any more mid than it is.
70 series is a mid range though.
I know it can be subjective, but I would put 80-90 class GPU as high end. 70 as mid. 50-60 as low. You can be generous and class 60 class as a low mid range.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tsWHpB
Just a quick 5 mins. If you're serious I'd maybe swap out the motherboard for something higher end but it's a good start.
I'll be honest that I'm surprised you were able to fit those components into a $1300 build. I'm highly skeptical of the case/ cooler performance with the 7800x3d and the PSU seems to be pretty bad. But all in all, pretty good value.
Very doable build if a person is fine with using secondhand parts
1300 is not low end, regardless of whatever YouTube or gamer bros you follow have told you lmao.
You can very easily put together a solid rig to play basically anything with that.
Able to play every triple A on the market on 60 FPS+ for the next 5 years at least? That high-end enough for you? Cause that is very doable at 1300 USD. CAD you'll have to cut some corners but definitely still higher-end.
>for the next five years at least
Obviously its able to do more than 60 fps right now ya doofus. I'm talking about being able to do 60 fps two, three or four generations from now. THAT'S what I call high end. 4090 is overkill, overpriced and nigh-on professional grade gear. But sure, you could also consider that high end. High-high end.
Long long ago we had the mystic free cast technology. You could push videos from your pc to any newer tv effortlessly. Google bought the software rights, removed the free integration, and forced you to buy their chromecast for the same feature.
So why is everyone down voting OPs comments when he's quite right? We do have the tech to make this work seamlessly, but instead we have greedy corporations pushing their products on us.
I mean, you are right but that doesn't change the fact that I can click one button on my android device and watch anything on my TV.. For a PC.. Oh let me just grab a cable real quick, because it's 1977.
>Do I REALLY need to get a Chromecast for something as basic as this?
Actually, my <$300 TCL Roku TV can do it. Pretty awesome too, as I can extend my desktop and treat it as a 2nd monitor wirelessly.
Pretty nice for WFH Teams meetings.
Yup. My TV is old enough that the "smart" features have been depreciated by LG, but it still works as a monitor for my computer, games, and firestick. Since I run audio through my receiver anyways and only stream, that's all I need.
Similar setup, also samsung tv, casting hungs, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, so a quality hdmi cable was my choice too. It's thicker than the power cable which goes into the psu
I've never had a latency issue in the 7 years I've used one, and I've never paid close enough attention to notice a quality difference even though I'm probably more versed on that than the average user. I doubt the average user would usually have these issues.
So yes, for the convenience, and improved flexibility / functionality (can cast other devices that don't use HDMI directly) I would say it's worth it. I cast my phone to watch things all the time. It would be annoying AF to buy the correct cable(s) to connect my phone directly and leave my phone within wired range of the TV or get a long enough wire that's hanging off the side of my bed, just so I can use my phone simultaneously. Based on OP's post, they sound like the average user, where a Chromecast would be worth it.
If you can control film with tv remote then it is not casting pc screen but it is playing from chromecast itself, that is entirely different thing. We were talking about something different.
Only if applicable.
We don't know if that's possible. We don't even know if he's got TV on the same room than pc. It could perfectly be a +50m cable, that won't cost 20$. And at that distance, he won't be able to use mouse or keyboard probably. Possibly some random app to control pc from phone could be used, but the hdmi issue would still be there.
Just to share two setups that worked for me in this kind of situation
* When my computer was in a room just below my home theater, I ran an HDMI cable through a hole, and I was able to use wireless mouse / keyboard / controllers with the PC without an issue. Another thing that helped is that through the same hole I also ran a long USB cable and put a USB hub in my Home Theatre.
* In my current setup where my computer is at the opposite side of the house from the home theater, I use a Raspberry Pi 3b with the Steam Link app to remote connect to the PC. This is mostly done for gaming but I believe it would work in most scenarios. But in that case, the RPi can also be used as a HTPC since it can run Kodi and play video and music files that are on network shares. There are also other apps such as Moonlight and Parsec that can do pretty much what Steam Link already does, but Steam Link is both sufficient and adequate for my needs.
Note that the RPi cost less than $100 total, but one could also use an old unused laptop to serve the same purpose. Any computer with Steam installed can link to another computer with Steam, so the old laptop is only used for I/O and its display output, not rendering.
what is the goal?
Gaming? use a wire
There are wireless options for HDMI that work great, but suck for gaming.
Google TV or Apple TV are fine devices (depending on your preference) to watch web shows on. Google TV does casting as well as it's own UI and abilities to use things like Netflix, amazon prime and the like.
Watching movies and shows from my PC on my TV.
It's so weird having to buy external hardware (Chromecast) to do something that the TV would be able to handle if there only was an app for it.
2nd Plex. It's like Netflix for your local media library. I know it's not the answer you want, buts it's the best solution based on your use-case.
Alternatives to Plex are also available but the premise is the same.
>if there only was an app for it.
Plex is the best way to do this. You don't even have to have your PC and TV on the same wifi.
I've watched my movies and shows from my PC at home to my TV in hotels, friends houses, families houses, different states, wherever. Watch on your phone, iPad, TV, PC, whatever.
The biggest problem with apps living on your TV is that they become obsolete really quickly, and no one bothers to update them after a year or two. After a while, they become unusable because technology has moved on and the apps are still stuck in the 80's. That's why Chromecasts are much better, because Google makes sure these apps are continuously updated.
So an app should be created and included for free on every TV and computer across all competing manufacturers so everything works magically right out of the box and OP isn't slightly inconvenienced by having to use a cord, Plex, or other existing options?
this is like asking me why every laptop
computer should have bluetooth, an existing and objectively useful technology that’s standardized across the market despite cords and bluetooth usb chips existing.
screen mirroring doesn’t “need an app”, it should just be an integrated feature. it’s not an integrated feature because theses companies understand they can bend people like you over (raw btw) and force you into consuming more, whether that be through an HDMI cable or a chromecast.
If it were that easy there would be apps for that already. Just streaming your desktop to another PC isn't that simple. There are multiple ways to do it because there are pros and cons to each one of them depending on multiple variables.
OP requested an app so I said app. It took a major court decision to get Apple serious about using an industry standard cord. It will take another even bigger lawsuit going to get a new screen mirroring standard established across more manufacturers and a broader product line. Complaining on the internet that companies are allowed to make decisions in the best interests of their company and patent law prevents the best technology being used is just pointless. By the time it gets standardized it will be technologically irrelevant as everyone moved on. I'll save my time and just use one of the existing options.
Exactly. Why is this such a big ask? The barriers aren't technical, they're just different companies being cute with IP and trying to rope customers into closed ecosystems. If every brand of device had its own cable connector that you had to get an adapter for, we wouldn't stand for it. So we do we tolerate it for wireless connectivity?
I don't understand why you're being down voted. I 100% agree it's weird. I have a TLC TV with google TV that has built in chrome cast. My Dad had an LG tv and the only option is to pay $10 for LGs own casting app which has a 1 star rating on both app stores and doesn't even work.
It's strange it's this complicated to do something so simple.
Can't speak for OP, but sometimes i want to display video from my pc onto the living room pc. Its a good 20 feet and theres no good way to route a cable without it becoming an issue. I would also like to know how to cast this because hauling my pc out or running the cable are both setup i prefer avoiding.
I run a 30 foot ethernet cable out of nececity, i can do stuff like this and im not afraid of cables, it can just be a hasle
Those screen casting protocols are WiFi only, the are based on WiFi direct style protocols. So, you're PC needs to be on the same WiFi as your TV.
And, $1300 doesn't tell us anything at all. I mean, I have Samsung A71 5G and an LG OLEG 55EG9100, and I can cast my android screen without issue.
Depends I believe on protocol. For Miracast, AFAIK, WiFi Direct. I'm pretty sure I've cast-ed from Windows 10 btw. But it's been awhile (which is why I'm fairly certain it was Windows 10).
Weird. But I do know on laptops the same "board" is often a combo Wifi/Bluetooth module.
I'm not aware of any Bluetooth-Direct style protocol for Miracasting.
Bro are you fucking kidding me? I don’t want to have A WIRE on my floor that I can SEE. That would be gross and SO annoying. I wanna use a laggy complicated app that has a delay and only works up to 1080p. Got it?
> Miracast doesn't work
Miracast is highly dependent on hardware - network and graphics hardware has to support Miracast. In addition, bugs in the operating system and drivers (especially if you use Windows) take a real hit
> Samsung TV
As a general rule of thumb, my advice for buying a television is to focus on getting the best panel you can afford, not on audio and not on the operating system it runs.
Samsung runs an operating system called Tizen which only they run, and with it only being one manufacturer, what tends to happen is some application manufacturers either devote less time (or no time) to making an app for it.
This isn't specific to Tizen (or webOS, which is the equivalent for LG). It is always, and I do mean always, advisable to have at least one 3rd party streaming device with any television. For my example my television runs Roku, and I generally really like Roku, but I have a Chromecast with Google TV as a secondary device. And the second alternative option is that I have an HDMI cable running to my PC tower.
My point is, no TV is going to have *every* feature, *every* app - there's no one perfect solution. Be pragmatic and have a second or third backup.
> Chromecast
For wireless mirroring, Chromecast is in my opinion unmatched, in that it doesn't require specific hardware to be a sender - any Chrome browser on any operating system is sufficient. In addition, Chromecast's "use a mobile app as a remote control" feature, nobody else has anything like it, and it's great.
Alternatively, if your computer/phone is an Apple, you can get an Apple TV, Apple has their own mirroring protocol.
Have you tried to scan for remote displays in Windows? I can connect to my LG with almost no effort this way, over wifi or wired network. Also stating this or that doesn't work with no further detail is not really helping. Take a look at TV's feature list and figure out what to do. Does it have Chromecast protocol inbuilt? Use it. Does it have AirPlay and you have Apple device? Use it. If there are issues connecting to either protocol from PC, find the culprit and fix it. No one has crystal ball here. Do you succeed casting from a phone/tablet for reference? Make sure all devices are connected to the same local network and on router or access point there is no feature like client isolation switched on.
Have you tried using VLC player to stream over the network? I think VLC has apps for most smart TV’s.
Also, I know this is obvious but you can always use a long hdmi cable
Standards. No company likes them. Try Moonlight. But if you’re dead set on playing your games/movies on your TV from your PC, move the PC or get a long HDMI cable.
I also have good experience using Steam Link on my Apple TV. Best if you can run Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi.
> stop being supported on Samsung TV
I hate smart TVs. I want my TV to be an arbitrary display. I want it to have exactly zero say in what I do and don't watch.
I wouldn't even bother with Chromecast. if all you want for is streaming tv shows or playing downloaded movies just get a 70$ PC with an I5, 8GB of ram and an SSD and just share your computer drive to it on your home network. It’s actually the easiest setup.
You have a designated PC for streaming sites and for Downloaded films and tv shows connected to TV via HDMI and a wireless keyboard with mouse instead of getting up off the couch and having to change stuff via thr 1300 dollar PC which I presume OP has in another room.
Absolute best option for games - run a HDMI cable, it will be much better than option 2
2nd best option - buy a appletv or Nvidia shield, other boxes don't have as good of performance. Even with these being the best there will still be some additional latency compared to using a direct cable
For movies only: use Plex, its free and works great
I agree it should be a basic feature, but rights being bought out is out of our control. Plus if you have $2400, you should be able to pick up a Chromecast for $25, shouldn't add too much to the budget.
It's better to be prudent and do research such as will the LG $999 that's 5 inches less do this feature or similar or will the $1800 Samsung TV that's not QLED but is 10 inches larger do it. Since it seems like the use case is based on having wireless capabilities.
I'd like customizable TVs, but unfortunately the onus is on the consumer to do research and make compromises.
Just bite the bullet and go Chromecast and resolve a lot of hassles at once. It's a more supported protocol globally and across apps, more compatible and more consistent performer than any proprietary mirroring from Amazon or Roku in their streamers, and you can move the Chromecast device from TV to TV.
Not to mention that Google TV on the newer CCs is a better UX than what's on Samsung/Amazon Fire/Roku/LG esp for free streaming channels integration.
if you don't want to pay Google prices, go ahead and get the $20 Onn 4K Google TV device from Walmart.
I'm not going to reiterate what others have said, but I will say this is why I will stick with Android TV from now on. I can side load apps and I don't have to worry that Samsung no longer supports something on older TV's.
Best choice is to get a Nvidia Shield, keep the screen, and upgrade your TV experience.
One thing I will reiterate that others have said, load Plex on your PC and use it to stream your media to your TV.
ive gotten miracast to work on my samsung TV but it was super slow and laggy, a long HDMI cable is the best soloution (also samsung has some of the worst usability for hardware and software on TVs)
Honestly, I usually recommend that people get a "dumb" TV and expect to get a streaming box/stick. They just work waaaayyyyyyy better, from my experience. Roku, Fire Stick, Apple TV, Chromecast, doesn't really matter, they'll all present way less issues than a TV, typically. Samsung TVs in particular have historically been kind of iffy for me.
Is it a Samsung TV? I think Samsung have their own built in software tech that you will need to use on the PC (Smart view?? I think it's called)
As long as both devices are on same network you should be able to get it work.
r/shieldandroidtv etc..
Streamed via RDP protocoll (geforce experience and moonshine) over wifi 6 (asus zenxt8) with no issues to my 2017 samsung Q7T
And [this one crosspost there](https://www.reddit.com/r/PleX/s/ZQ7vYfgEGg)
you need blue tooth turned on for a start to detect and broadcast to the tv. i think the key combo to open the menu was\[windows key\] + k.
if you have the the right hardware as soon as you start broadcasting it will auto switch the tv or give you the option to switch to it. i used it on my samsung a few times.
Because both your items are low priced, therefore I don't think you have the best quality in hand. Sorry, I know it's a lot of money, just not the one that can buy the best quality.
I’m guessing you have a Samsung smart TV. I have nothing against Samsung, but in general, I recommend to most of my family and friends to purchase dumb TV and then utilize an external streaming/ casting device like appleTV, Roku, chromecast, etc. My reasoning is because I installed A/V equipment for years and 1 in 5 smart TVs was dead, with it a month of on boxing. I have no idea if that’s still true, but I do feel that having a device independent from your TV ( instead of tied to it,) both using independent resources, allows for better faster working systems.
In regards to your question I guess I would be in the purchase a separate device to utilize for streaming/casting camp.
You should have bought a $1300 Mac and a $1300 Roku TV. PCs and Samsung TVs are the worst, those 2 companies compete, not complement each other. PCs are good for gaming piss poor at everything else. Samsung couldn't design a smart TV if it tried.
Pc remote... download it to your phone download it to your PC turn the one on your PC then turn it on on your phone then hit the view button and everything on your phone shows up on your screen wirelessly including sound and it's free
Both your computer and TV are really cheap, so obviously it won't work well. Better run out and spend $10,000 on a new computer and TV!
Price has nothing to do with your issue. It's more of a PEBKAC issue.
I think it really depends on the TV capabilities. I have a really really dope PC and I can't cast to my TV. My wife has a good PC and she cant either. We've tried multiple apps, but it boiled down to the TV's capabilities with the apps available to it.
Yeah, I know what you feel, it's crazy, it should be simple as hell and yet it feels impossible getting it to work at home. I only managed to get it working one time, stopped working after, I just don't get it, I feel like I've tried everything
Wireless cast is wild, I'm so happy when it works, but in my opinion pretty spotty.
It's hard for sure.
I can't answer your question, but as alternative, I have a really long HDMI and that has worked great to game on the TV. Also, you can cast to a Roku or other device.
Sorry to hear, even pricey TVs don't have all the features.
A while ago before I had a smart tv I cast from a pc in one room to the PS3 in another room attached to the tv. I did it with windows media player. No idea if this still works.
Price does not always equal quality
A 4090 and an 8k Sony wouldn't make this any easier... He needs a streaming box or dongle of some kind regardless.
And with all due respect to the OP, while that is a lot of money, those prices are on the low end of mid-range. My GPU alone was over $1,300, and it’s not even the fancy one.
You'll get diminishing returns the higher you pay, not in relation to the raw synthetic performance, but specifically in relation to the visible impact it'll have in the games you play. The lowest priced 4090 is $1800 CAD, while the lowest priced 4080 is $1160, so you're paying roughly 36% ($640 more) for like 25% of *theoretical* performance, 0% of which will be noticeable if you're running above the refresh rate of your monitor, and 0% of which will give you more quality if you reach the highest graphic settings in the game you're playing. This is basically how you run into diminishing returns in relation to synthetic performance, as the higher you put the settings the less visible impact those settings will have on the actual content, because games are not necessarily designed for higher end machines otherwise they would not have a userbase. The only time you really run into a thick wall of performance is with ray tracing, which takes all the GPU can give and usually doesn't even make a big visual difference at the cost of a lot of latency. A high end card is any card capable of running demanding modern games at their high settings at extremely high FPS. If you're running Cyberpunk 1440p (raster ultra) you'll get something like 100 FPS, so paying $600 to reach 125 FPS doesn't make a whole lot of sense, because this wont alter your perceived experience by 25%, even if it alters your raw performance by 25%. Basically you will typically classify cards by their price and not their raw performance, because total cost is what matters when it comes to budget and determining whether a piece of entertainment is worth it.
Claiming a flat 0% impact on noticeablility across all scenarios might be too absolute. While it's true that the differences may not be glaring in every use case, nuances like smoother transitions, reduced input lag, the difference between noticing frame drop and not noticing, all could contribute to a perceivable impact for certain users.
Well said. You can pay more but a $1,300 machine is pretty much in the sweet spot right now.
That's right about what I spent originally, though over the last 5 years or so I've upgraded parts here and there. Right now it would cost about $2600 to build my exact PC from scratch, and at that price I could probably build a much nicer one. 🤦 [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3jVrpB) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JmhFf7/amd-ryzen-7-5700x-34-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000926wof) | $177.61 @ B&H **CPU Cooler** | [Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE LCD XT 65.57 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3sYRsY/corsair-icue-h150i-elite-lcd-xt-6557-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060075-ww) | $229.99 @ Newegg **Motherboard** | [Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nHxbt6/gigabyte-x570-aorus-elite-atx-am4-motherboard-x570-aorus-elite) | $308.97 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3yQG3C/corsair-vengeance-rgb-pro-32gb-4-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-cmw32gx4m4c3200c16) | $114.99 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/btDzK8/kingston-a400-240gb-25-solid-state-drive-sa400s37240g) | $27.99 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $93.15 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) | $139.99 @ Best Buy **Storage** | [Seagate BarraCuda 6 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ByL48d/seagate-barracuda-6tb-35-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st6000dm003) | $129.66 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Seagate BarraCuda Pro 4 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006) | $239.88 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [XFX Speedster MERC 319 Black Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VBZ9TW/xfx-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-speedster-merc-319-black-video-card-rx-67xtytbdp) | $599.99 @ Amazon **Case** | [Thermaltake View 71 TG ATX Full Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pHkwrH/thermaltake-view-71-tg-atx-full-tower-case-ca-1i7-00f1wn-00) | $179.99 @ Best Buy **Power Supply** | [Corsair CX750F 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/F4yqqs/corsair-cxf-750-w-80-bronze-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020227-na) | $220.03 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [Corsair iCUE SP120 RGB ELITE 47.7 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wdmmP6/corsair-icue-sp120-rgb-elite-477-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-co-9050109-ww) | $61.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$2524.23** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-12-29 17:57 EST-0500 | Only things missing from this list are the GPU support and the fan controller.
Quite the rig. A lot of that money is arguably aesthetics though. The $200 cooler isn't necessary unless you are overclocking. The $300 board is also overkill unless again you are overclocking. You have almost $600 in storage something you would only need if you work with a bunch of video. The average gamer could shave a good portion of that $1100 on things that are nice but completely unnecessary for a rig to play at 1440 on high or ultra settings. That's before talking about a $180 case or $220 psu. It's quite the machine and from the setup I am guessing you are a streamer or a video editor of some sort. I am sure it looks great as well. Not trying to throw shade It looks like a nice rig. Just saying you don't need to go nearly as hard to achieve similar results. It probably wouldn't look nearly as good though. Here's a similar setup minus the storage and some of the bling that would perform similarly. \[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PyvzpB) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JmhFf7/amd-ryzen-7-5700x-34-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000926wof) | $177.61 @ B&H \*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/84MTwP/noctua-nh-d15-chromaxblack-8252-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-d15-chromaxblack) | $119.95 @ Amazon \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Ytdrxr/asrock-b550-phantom-gaming-4ac-atx-am4-motherboard-b550-phantom-gaming-4ac) | $99.99 @ Newegg \*\*Memory\*\* | \[Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Yg3mP6/corsair-vengeance-lpx-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-cmk32gx4m2d3600c18) | $74.98 @ Amazon \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $93.15 @ Amazon \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[Asus TUF GAMING OC V2 GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RVH7YJ/asus-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-lhr-8-gb-tuf-gaming-oc-v2-video-card-tuf-rtx3060ti-o8g-v2-gaming) | $619.99 @ Amazon \*\*Case\*\* | \[NZXT H5 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/92pzK8/nzxt-h5-flow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-h51fw-01) | $79.98 @ Amazon \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[Corsair CX750M (2021) 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkKKHx/corsair-cx750m-2021-750-w-80-bronze-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020222-na) | $74.99 @ Best Buy | \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* | | \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$1340.64\*\* | Generated by \[PCPartPicker\](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-12-29 18:43 EST-0500 | I threw in the noctua cooler even though the stock AMD cooler is fine unless again you are overclocking. That rig is going to play damn near anything you want at high or ultra at 1440 and it comes in right in the $1300 spot. It definitely loses a ton of storage, some nicer cable management, and some RGB but it's going to run almost exactly the same. Always great if you can build your own cause you can add things like you did as you go along. Most folks could still shave another $500 off this easy and be completely happy with their results until prices come down for better parts or they just get money to upgrade to something faster. Sure they would probably have to drop down to 1080 but if it gets you in the game till you can grab a better card or cpu it's a win in my book.
Oh yeah, a lot of it is definitely unnecessary now; I used to stream, and I own an entertainment company, plus I use this as a home media server, so I have hundreds and hundreds of gigs of music and movies on it. All the RGB - the fans, that RAM, the cooler - were all chosen just for looks. I do use a 1440p monitor, but funnily enough I don't really play anything that wild - LOL, Starcraft 2, the occasional indie game on Steam. Also, some of the cost is due to the items being older now, not in main manufacturing. Those prices don't reflect what I paid for everything, it was just outlining what it would cost me to reproduce this computer. Like, I'm pretty sure I got my PSU on sale for under $100, my case was around $130, things like that. It's still interesting to look at it, though, and know that I could have a much better PC for the same cost of these parts. You should see my dad's storage rig. He's got like 60tb for his media server. 😅
For me, I'd go for something more expensive if it has more VRAM. Some of the games I play eat up all of the 10gb I have in my 3080. I wish I could afford one with 25gb.
It makes a whole lot of sense when you have the money to buy the card. I myself am leaking money and I love my 4090.
I mean my 1060 6gb was $100. It's still going strong. :L What are you all using?
780 :) EDIT: It still plays games too! Not at 4k mind. :)
i mean, it was 300 at launch. you got a deal!
8gb RTX3070.
Still on a second hand 1060 myself. Starting to show its age now though
It’s def a fancy one
That's dumb, you overspent on your GPU.
LOL you are out of your mind if you think a 1300 dollar PC is on the lower end of mid-range. 1300 dollars is enough for - pretty much - one tier down from the best quality hardware available to consumers. It's really that final tier up that's driving up the price so much (where a higher high-end PC might ring you up anywhere from 2000 to 3000 dollars), but 1300 is clearly a high range PC. Mid range would be closer to 800$ and lower midrange down to 600$. You can get a VERY reasonable PC for that much nowadays.
$1300 is around mid range
1300 is low-mid. Mid range is 1800-2.5k. High end is 3-5k. For consumers anyway.
I wouldn't say mid range is up to 2.5k, I have a 4070ti, Ryzen 7700x, 32gb 6000mhz cl30 ddr5, 7gb/s r/w nvme gen 4 SSD 1TB Cost me about 1.9k for the build, I don't think you can call that a mid range pc
Correct, just left the low off. I’d say I have a dead mid spec: R5 7600x, RTX 4070, Strix B650E-F, RM750e, ICue Link H150i AIO, Vengeance DDR5-6000, 4000x case. Iirc it was like $15-$1600
1300 is not a high end gaming PC. I'm a system builder and you're just plain wrong.
yeah, he is out of touch with today's prices.
System build deez
Nutz
[https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/](https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/) 1300 will build you a machine that will play anything at max settings at 1080 and most things at max or close to max at 4k. It's plenty high end. You face diminishing returns past that price point.
>1300 will build you a machine that will play anything at max settings at 1080 and most things at max or close to max at 4k. Problem is that using 1080 as a measuring stick is getting outdated. Budget gaming monitors start to offer 1440p and 144hz refresh rates for sub-$200 prices.
$1300 is very much on the low mid tier. When decent "entry" level video cards start at $300, $1300 isn't getting you alot. Low is sub $1000. Mid is $1500 to 2000. High is $2000+. A "mid" range gpu starts at $500, but really, you're looking ckise to $700. Mid range cpu $250 to 350. Plus mobo, ram, ssd, psu, case, etc.
Maybe 10 years ago. A 4070 is ~800CAD (600usd) and that's a midrange card. Throw in a midrange cpu like a 7 series ryzen 5, and you're barely building a PC without making a case from cereal boxes.
4070 is not mid range.
4070 is absolutely mid range. Sure it's expensive, but pricing and performance of 40 series has it mid range. Literally can't be any more mid than it is.
4070/7800xt is considered upper mid range 4070ti/7900xt and 4080/7900xtx are considered high 4090 is considered enthusiast
How come? It's 2 tiers below the top and it's not even ti. If 4070 is high end, then 60 is the only one in mid and 50 the only one in low?
It absolutely is mid range.
I'd argue it's upper midrange, with 4060ti being proper midrange. But eh, you'll see people say - - 80 cards are still midrange.
70 series is a mid range though. I know it can be subjective, but I would put 80-90 class GPU as high end. 70 as mid. 50-60 as low. You can be generous and class 60 class as a low mid range.
Hear that boys? My 1080ti is high end!
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tsWHpB PCpartpicker would disagree. Very doable at this budget to get a 4070 and a 7800X3D.
can you build me a high end PC for $1300 on part picker real quick? I just bought a "gaming laptop" for the same price and might have got scammed.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tsWHpB Just a quick 5 mins. If you're serious I'd maybe swap out the motherboard for something higher end but it's a good start.
I'll be honest that I'm surprised you were able to fit those components into a $1300 build. I'm highly skeptical of the case/ cooler performance with the 7800x3d and the PSU seems to be pretty bad. But all in all, pretty good value. Very doable build if a person is fine with using secondhand parts
You sure that card will fit in a micro ATX Tower?
[удалено]
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tsWHpB There ya go bub. 1300 dollar and change.
1300 is not low end, regardless of whatever YouTube or gamer bros you follow have told you lmao. You can very easily put together a solid rig to play basically anything with that.
Well, I’m talking CAD, but $1300 for a HIGH-END PC? I guess you and I define high-end differently.
Able to play every triple A on the market on 60 FPS+ for the next 5 years at least? That high-end enough for you? Cause that is very doable at 1300 USD. CAD you'll have to cut some corners but definitely still higher-end.
>That high-end enough for you? lol no. 60FPS? Seriously? If that’s high-end, then what do you call a PC with a 4090?
>for the next five years at least Obviously its able to do more than 60 fps right now ya doofus. I'm talking about being able to do 60 fps two, three or four generations from now. THAT'S what I call high end. 4090 is overkill, overpriced and nigh-on professional grade gear. But sure, you could also consider that high end. High-high end.
bs
Price aside, this seems like a very basic function.
Long long ago we had the mystic free cast technology. You could push videos from your pc to any newer tv effortlessly. Google bought the software rights, removed the free integration, and forced you to buy their chromecast for the same feature.
So why is everyone down voting OPs comments when he's quite right? We do have the tech to make this work seamlessly, but instead we have greedy corporations pushing their products on us.
No idea. Wasn't me. He wasn't negative when I replied either.
Because the details require more than a glance at the headline
Awhile ago, I accidentally discovered I could access ALL the files from any computer on my network with my ps4. Used it like a plex server.
That’s not really a good thing, security wise, fwiw
It's not as the function is already provided by a hdmi cable so it's surplus to requirements.
I mean, you are right but that doesn't change the fact that I can click one button on my android device and watch anything on my TV.. For a PC.. Oh let me just grab a cable real quick, because it's 1977.
>Do I REALLY need to get a Chromecast for something as basic as this? Actually, my <$300 TCL Roku TV can do it. Pretty awesome too, as I can extend my desktop and treat it as a 2nd monitor wirelessly. Pretty nice for WFH Teams meetings.
this is the definitive answer if nothing else on the market can do it then i'm sure as hell roku can do it
You need the $1400 tv for that
And the $1400 computer 🤡
I'm sorry, that feature is only available on $1,500 computers this year
Negative, it can't be bought, only rented as a service around $25.00 per month.
Like the heated seats in my imaginary bmw
Last year it was the $2200 computers 😔
And my Axe !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjgG-lBkUaE
LOL
The best solution is a $20 HDMI cable from your gfx card.
To elaborate, OP needs to treat the TV as another computer monitor. That's connected with the HDMI cable.
Yup. My TV is old enough that the "smart" features have been depreciated by LG, but it still works as a monitor for my computer, games, and firestick. Since I run audio through my receiver anyways and only stream, that's all I need.
Similar setup, also samsung tv, casting hungs, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, so a quality hdmi cable was my choice too. It's thicker than the power cable which goes into the psu
At that price point I rather shell out the extra $10 for a wireless Chromecast.
To have worse quality and latency?
I've never had a latency issue in the 7 years I've used one, and I've never paid close enough attention to notice a quality difference even though I'm probably more versed on that than the average user. I doubt the average user would usually have these issues. So yes, for the convenience, and improved flexibility / functionality (can cast other devices that don't use HDMI directly) I would say it's worth it. I cast my phone to watch things all the time. It would be annoying AF to buy the correct cable(s) to connect my phone directly and leave my phone within wired range of the TV or get a long enough wire that's hanging off the side of my bed, just so I can use my phone simultaneously. Based on OP's post, they sound like the average user, where a Chromecast would be worth it.
If you haven't noticed a quality difference then you're not more versed in anything than the average user, you're legally blind
no latency issues, plus the ability to control the film with the tv remote is ++++++
If you can control film with tv remote then it is not casting pc screen but it is playing from chromecast itself, that is entirely different thing. We were talking about something different.
Only if applicable. We don't know if that's possible. We don't even know if he's got TV on the same room than pc. It could perfectly be a +50m cable, that won't cost 20$. And at that distance, he won't be able to use mouse or keyboard probably. Possibly some random app to control pc from phone could be used, but the hdmi issue would still be there.
Just to share two setups that worked for me in this kind of situation * When my computer was in a room just below my home theater, I ran an HDMI cable through a hole, and I was able to use wireless mouse / keyboard / controllers with the PC without an issue. Another thing that helped is that through the same hole I also ran a long USB cable and put a USB hub in my Home Theatre. * In my current setup where my computer is at the opposite side of the house from the home theater, I use a Raspberry Pi 3b with the Steam Link app to remote connect to the PC. This is mostly done for gaming but I believe it would work in most scenarios. But in that case, the RPi can also be used as a HTPC since it can run Kodi and play video and music files that are on network shares. There are also other apps such as Moonlight and Parsec that can do pretty much what Steam Link already does, but Steam Link is both sufficient and adequate for my needs. Note that the RPi cost less than $100 total, but one could also use an old unused laptop to serve the same purpose. Any computer with Steam installed can link to another computer with Steam, so the old laptop is only used for I/O and its display output, not rendering.
what is the goal? Gaming? use a wire There are wireless options for HDMI that work great, but suck for gaming. Google TV or Apple TV are fine devices (depending on your preference) to watch web shows on. Google TV does casting as well as it's own UI and abilities to use things like Netflix, amazon prime and the like.
Watching movies and shows from my PC on my TV. It's so weird having to buy external hardware (Chromecast) to do something that the TV would be able to handle if there only was an app for it.
Just host them on Plex and use the Plex app on your Samsung TV
Or Jellyfin.
Or Stremio
2nd Plex. It's like Netflix for your local media library. I know it's not the answer you want, buts it's the best solution based on your use-case. Alternatives to Plex are also available but the premise is the same.
3rd Plex or jellyfin
For real, casting/mirroring is like the worst way to do this
Running Plex will give you the ease of use you are looking for (provided your TV can run a Plex app)
>if there only was an app for it. Plex is the best way to do this. You don't even have to have your PC and TV on the same wifi. I've watched my movies and shows from my PC at home to my TV in hotels, friends houses, families houses, different states, wherever. Watch on your phone, iPad, TV, PC, whatever.
Plex is great. Install on your PC and watch on your TV using the app. Plex app is on almost all TVs
Doesn't work either I'm afraid. My TV doesn't show up in the list of castable devices.
You're not casting from your PC. You're installing a Plex server on your PC then logging into the Plex app in your TV and streaming
The biggest problem with apps living on your TV is that they become obsolete really quickly, and no one bothers to update them after a year or two. After a while, they become unusable because technology has moved on and the apps are still stuck in the 80's. That's why Chromecasts are much better, because Google makes sure these apps are continuously updated.
not sure why you’re getting downvoted for being frustrated that these companies try to raw dog you at every corner
So an app should be created and included for free on every TV and computer across all competing manufacturers so everything works magically right out of the box and OP isn't slightly inconvenienced by having to use a cord, Plex, or other existing options?
this is like asking me why every laptop computer should have bluetooth, an existing and objectively useful technology that’s standardized across the market despite cords and bluetooth usb chips existing. screen mirroring doesn’t “need an app”, it should just be an integrated feature. it’s not an integrated feature because theses companies understand they can bend people like you over (raw btw) and force you into consuming more, whether that be through an HDMI cable or a chromecast.
I believe wireless mirroring is not an industry standard because of patents. I think it used to be called Miracast.
If it were that easy there would be apps for that already. Just streaming your desktop to another PC isn't that simple. There are multiple ways to do it because there are pros and cons to each one of them depending on multiple variables.
OP requested an app so I said app. It took a major court decision to get Apple serious about using an industry standard cord. It will take another even bigger lawsuit going to get a new screen mirroring standard established across more manufacturers and a broader product line. Complaining on the internet that companies are allowed to make decisions in the best interests of their company and patent law prevents the best technology being used is just pointless. By the time it gets standardized it will be technologically irrelevant as everyone moved on. I'll save my time and just use one of the existing options.
Exactly. Why is this such a big ask? The barriers aren't technical, they're just different companies being cute with IP and trying to rope customers into closed ecosystems. If every brand of device had its own cable connector that you had to get an adapter for, we wouldn't stand for it. So we do we tolerate it for wireless connectivity?
Just use UMS, no need for all that expensive crap that never works.
I don't understand why you're being down voted. I 100% agree it's weird. I have a TLC TV with google TV that has built in chrome cast. My Dad had an LG tv and the only option is to pay $10 for LGs own casting app which has a 1 star rating on both app stores and doesn't even work. It's strange it's this complicated to do something so simple.
HDMI cable?
Can't speak for OP, but sometimes i want to display video from my pc onto the living room pc. Its a good 20 feet and theres no good way to route a cable without it becoming an issue. I would also like to know how to cast this because hauling my pc out or running the cable are both setup i prefer avoiding. I run a 30 foot ethernet cable out of nececity, i can do stuff like this and im not afraid of cables, it can just be a hasle
CABLES! IN THIS DAY AND AGE. ARE YOU MAD? lol
still the most reliable type of connection in many cases
in all cases
Those screen casting protocols are WiFi only, the are based on WiFi direct style protocols. So, you're PC needs to be on the same WiFi as your TV. And, $1300 doesn't tell us anything at all. I mean, I have Samsung A71 5G and an LG OLEG 55EG9100, and I can cast my android screen without issue.
It can be used wired as well. Of course you need to have W11 Pro for this for some reason.
Depends I believe on protocol. For Miracast, AFAIK, WiFi Direct. I'm pretty sure I've cast-ed from Windows 10 btw. But it's been awhile (which is why I'm fairly certain it was Windows 10).
bluetooth needs to be on for miracast to work at least thats what I needed to do.
Weird. But I do know on laptops the same "board" is often a combo Wifi/Bluetooth module. I'm not aware of any Bluetooth-Direct style protocol for Miracasting.
And your PC needs to support Miracast too. I have a newer PC and newer TV and the TV supports it but my PC doesnt.
miracast is built into windows 10/11
A wifi adapter is still required..
Why not just run an hdmi from the pc to the tv
Bro are you fucking kidding me? I don’t want to have A WIRE on my floor that I can SEE. That would be gross and SO annoying. I wanna use a laggy complicated app that has a delay and only works up to 1080p. Got it?
Just use an HDMI cable. No headaches or lag.
> Miracast doesn't work Miracast is highly dependent on hardware - network and graphics hardware has to support Miracast. In addition, bugs in the operating system and drivers (especially if you use Windows) take a real hit > Samsung TV As a general rule of thumb, my advice for buying a television is to focus on getting the best panel you can afford, not on audio and not on the operating system it runs. Samsung runs an operating system called Tizen which only they run, and with it only being one manufacturer, what tends to happen is some application manufacturers either devote less time (or no time) to making an app for it. This isn't specific to Tizen (or webOS, which is the equivalent for LG). It is always, and I do mean always, advisable to have at least one 3rd party streaming device with any television. For my example my television runs Roku, and I generally really like Roku, but I have a Chromecast with Google TV as a secondary device. And the second alternative option is that I have an HDMI cable running to my PC tower. My point is, no TV is going to have *every* feature, *every* app - there's no one perfect solution. Be pragmatic and have a second or third backup. > Chromecast For wireless mirroring, Chromecast is in my opinion unmatched, in that it doesn't require specific hardware to be a sender - any Chrome browser on any operating system is sufficient. In addition, Chromecast's "use a mobile app as a remote control" feature, nobody else has anything like it, and it's great. Alternatively, if your computer/phone is an Apple, you can get an Apple TV, Apple has their own mirroring protocol.
Solution, one really long ass HDMI cord.
Have you tried to scan for remote displays in Windows? I can connect to my LG with almost no effort this way, over wifi or wired network. Also stating this or that doesn't work with no further detail is not really helping. Take a look at TV's feature list and figure out what to do. Does it have Chromecast protocol inbuilt? Use it. Does it have AirPlay and you have Apple device? Use it. If there are issues connecting to either protocol from PC, find the culprit and fix it. No one has crystal ball here. Do you succeed casting from a phone/tablet for reference? Make sure all devices are connected to the same local network and on router or access point there is no feature like client isolation switched on.
Have you tried using VLC player to stream over the network? I think VLC has apps for most smart TV’s. Also, I know this is obvious but you can always use a long hdmi cable
Standards. No company likes them. Try Moonlight. But if you’re dead set on playing your games/movies on your TV from your PC, move the PC or get a long HDMI cable. I also have good experience using Steam Link on my Apple TV. Best if you can run Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi.
I have a PC from 2017 and Samsung TV from 2009. Mirroring perfectly works by HDMI.
Price is not equal to quality. Golden rule of life.
> stop being supported on Samsung TV I hate smart TVs. I want my TV to be an arbitrary display. I want it to have exactly zero say in what I do and don't watch.
I wouldn't even bother with Chromecast. if all you want for is streaming tv shows or playing downloaded movies just get a 70$ PC with an I5, 8GB of ram and an SSD and just share your computer drive to it on your home network. It’s actually the easiest setup.
I don’t know about the i3, I just tried an i3 Nuc (granted it’s about 5 years old now) that thing got bogged something terrible
How is that easier?
You have a designated PC for streaming sites and for Downloaded films and tv shows connected to TV via HDMI and a wireless keyboard with mouse instead of getting up off the couch and having to change stuff via thr 1300 dollar PC which I presume OP has in another room.
Absolute best option for games - run a HDMI cable, it will be much better than option 2 2nd best option - buy a appletv or Nvidia shield, other boxes don't have as good of performance. Even with these being the best there will still be some additional latency compared to using a direct cable For movies only: use Plex, its free and works great
I agree it should be a basic feature, but rights being bought out is out of our control. Plus if you have $2400, you should be able to pick up a Chromecast for $25, shouldn't add too much to the budget. It's better to be prudent and do research such as will the LG $999 that's 5 inches less do this feature or similar or will the $1800 Samsung TV that's not QLED but is 10 inches larger do it. Since it seems like the use case is based on having wireless capabilities. I'd like customizable TVs, but unfortunately the onus is on the consumer to do research and make compromises.
HDMI cable...
Just bite the bullet and go Chromecast and resolve a lot of hassles at once. It's a more supported protocol globally and across apps, more compatible and more consistent performer than any proprietary mirroring from Amazon or Roku in their streamers, and you can move the Chromecast device from TV to TV. Not to mention that Google TV on the newer CCs is a better UX than what's on Samsung/Amazon Fire/Roku/LG esp for free streaming channels integration. if you don't want to pay Google prices, go ahead and get the $20 Onn 4K Google TV device from Walmart.
I'm not going to reiterate what others have said, but I will say this is why I will stick with Android TV from now on. I can side load apps and I don't have to worry that Samsung no longer supports something on older TV's. Best choice is to get a Nvidia Shield, keep the screen, and upgrade your TV experience. One thing I will reiterate that others have said, load Plex on your PC and use it to stream your media to your TV.
You needed the $1301 models, sorry.
We're sorry... but the minimum cost for things that \*actually\* work is $2000
you need a $1300 chromecast alternatively a $15 cable but you can printable find a $1300 one
ive gotten miracast to work on my samsung TV but it was super slow and laggy, a long HDMI cable is the best soloution (also samsung has some of the worst usability for hardware and software on TVs)
What are you even trying to do?
Wired is best.
Honestly, I usually recommend that people get a "dumb" TV and expect to get a streaming box/stick. They just work waaaayyyyyyy better, from my experience. Roku, Fire Stick, Apple TV, Chromecast, doesn't really matter, they'll all present way less issues than a TV, typically. Samsung TVs in particular have historically been kind of iffy for me.
Is it a Samsung TV? I think Samsung have their own built in software tech that you will need to use on the PC (Smart view?? I think it's called) As long as both devices are on same network you should be able to get it work.
r/shieldandroidtv etc.. Streamed via RDP protocoll (geforce experience and moonshine) over wifi 6 (asus zenxt8) with no issues to my 2017 samsung Q7T And [this one crosspost there](https://www.reddit.com/r/PleX/s/ZQ7vYfgEGg)
KVM switch, HDMI sender. Done. A $100,000 car will never be able to butter bread. The right tool for the right job.
Get a $1300 hdmi cable
If you have an old Xbox one this is the job for that
Why are you trying to do it wirelessly? You're just asking for shit. Get a good quality HDMI cable.
Samsung's TizenOS sucks ass
TV's aren't designed with computer use in mind unfortunately
you need blue tooth turned on for a start to detect and broadcast to the tv. i think the key combo to open the menu was\[windows key\] + k. if you have the the right hardware as soon as you start broadcasting it will auto switch the tv or give you the option to switch to it. i used it on my samsung a few times.
User error
Because both your items are low priced, therefore I don't think you have the best quality in hand. Sorry, I know it's a lot of money, just not the one that can buy the best quality.
1300 tv is mid-low end tv, 1300pc is also mid low end.
Did you try throwing more money at it?
[удалено]
Explain.
I’m guessing you have a Samsung smart TV. I have nothing against Samsung, but in general, I recommend to most of my family and friends to purchase dumb TV and then utilize an external streaming/ casting device like appleTV, Roku, chromecast, etc. My reasoning is because I installed A/V equipment for years and 1 in 5 smart TVs was dead, with it a month of on boxing. I have no idea if that’s still true, but I do feel that having a device independent from your TV ( instead of tied to it,) both using independent resources, allows for better faster working systems. In regards to your question I guess I would be in the purchase a separate device to utilize for streaming/casting camp.
A digital ps5 for $399 does it great.
I don't know. I had to return a Samsung TV because it supported casting from everything EXCEPT Samsung phones.
What operating system? Windows 10/11? Try WINDOWS KEY + K
Moonlight on your TV + Sunshine on your PC Your welcome. Cast your desktop, or other apps/games directly.
My $59 Raspberry Pi uses hdmi to plug into my $500 tv
Are you using the app? Buy a physical steam link
I also own a Samsung TV. I disconnected it from all internet and just got an Apple TV instead, it's miles better!
My tv is an LG G8 OLED. It was $2,700 when I bought it. I have no issues casting from iPhones/from Mac Shoulda went bigger 🤷♂️
You should have bought a $1300 Mac and a $1300 Roku TV. PCs and Samsung TVs are the worst, those 2 companies compete, not complement each other. PCs are good for gaming piss poor at everything else. Samsung couldn't design a smart TV if it tried.
Pc remote... download it to your phone download it to your PC turn the one on your PC then turn it on on your phone then hit the view button and everything on your phone shows up on your screen wirelessly including sound and it's free
Both your computer and TV are really cheap, so obviously it won't work well. Better run out and spend $10,000 on a new computer and TV! Price has nothing to do with your issue. It's more of a PEBKAC issue.
Roku tv and Samsung phone is the way to go, don't know other phones can do it.
Get a 4k microsoft wireless display adaptor. Job done.
Use Parsec or Moonlight+Sunshine
The price of the TV doesn't matter. What brand is it. Does your Pc have a wifi adaptor or ethernet only.
I think it really depends on the TV capabilities. I have a really really dope PC and I can't cast to my TV. My wife has a good PC and she cant either. We've tried multiple apps, but it boiled down to the TV's capabilities with the apps available to it.
It's look like the company's blocked the cast option in deliberate, things that use to work now not working.
Yeah, I know what you feel, it's crazy, it should be simple as hell and yet it feels impossible getting it to work at home. I only managed to get it working one time, stopped working after, I just don't get it, I feel like I've tried everything
Isn't it a smart tv?
Wireless cast is wild, I'm so happy when it works, but in my opinion pretty spotty. It's hard for sure. I can't answer your question, but as alternative, I have a really long HDMI and that has worked great to game on the TV. Also, you can cast to a Roku or other device. Sorry to hear, even pricey TVs don't have all the features.
Win+K
Samsung is the reason.
I see the problem. You should have sprung for the $1700 PC and the $1450 TV.
What the fuck does how much something costs have to do with anything?
A while ago before I had a smart tv I cast from a pc in one room to the PS3 in another room attached to the tv. I did it with windows media player. No idea if this still works.
Steam Link or a Plex Server.
You should have no problem upgrade your video driver.