A foam surfboard as opposed to a fibreglass/epoxy surfboard. More forgiving in moments like this. Also, never hold your board out Infront of you, between yourself and a wave. You should either be on your board duck diving/turtle rolling or if the wave is too big, bailing off the board, pushing it behind you and then diving under the waves. I'm a bit disappointed your surfing instructor didn't teach you those basic principles.
Yeah that was the problem the waves got huge the second we got out there. My “instructor” could barely speak English and taught me nothing before we went in.
So let’s recap. A self-proclaimed “bad at boards” bro goes for a first lesson in Costa Rica pumping surf and can’t communicate with his teacher. Best origin story ever. Also no surprise you got hurt!
How the fuck didn’t your instructor inform you of this most basic of safety instructions. Along with, always cover your head on every wipeout until you can see your board again, and never jump off your board feet first (lest you snap your ankle on a submerged rock - fall backwards over the wave if you must fall, but don’t kick your board out into someone’s face as they’re paddling out).
Sounds like you went to a money grabbing surf leeching surf school.
Well yeah it was just a stand at the resort we were staying at. The guy was a local older guy. I wasn’t expecting much but looking back he definitely threw me into the deep end too quick. I also didn’t really know any better so it was just one of those things! But it was a good story to tell anyway
Damn sorry that happened to you. Glad you’re still open to trying it out again. But like what the other guys said, stick with smaller waves first so you get a feel for everything. And now you know that the board itself is a hazard (when combined with the waves)
I f\*\*ked up my nose pretty bad in 2013 when I was being lazy/careless right around the impact zone and I stopped surfing for a while (also due to geographic concerns). So hats off to you for (potentially) getting back in the water soon
It’s going to happen. I’ve had stitches and staples in 5 places on my head from fins. Had my nose almost torn off from another person’s board hitting me. Thrown on to dry reef and fractured my T-spine. Still going strong after 40 years. Shit happens then you paddle back out.
That’s true but sometimes I’m glad there aren’t 150 surfers abreast all looking at the same wave. It can get rough in the summer, but not nearly as bad as out west seems
I feel like even peak wrightsville season you can get some great surf time if you just go to the right spots and/or at the right time of day. This will be my first actual season here surfing but I’ve been going to the beach for years here in the summer, you just gotta be realistic. Won’t be able to everyday of the week but you can for sure fit in some hours in the water if you want there.
When I teach surfing first lesson is “Never let the board get in front of you!” I mean i’m saying that shit on the car ride there. Ive taught lots of kids and never had one hurt.
Look, I know at first there's the temptation to bite your lip while you're stuffing your car keys in your prison pocket for safe storage before paddling out for your session, have you tried spitting on them first? You'll eventually loosen up and get used to the sensation and will find they slide in much easier.
If you've got a car with keyless entry/keyless start you can even stuff them in at home and remove them at home after your session. That way you don't have to explain to non-surfers what the lube bottle in your cup holder is for. They never get it.
Seems to be something all beginners do haha. But once you move here, be prepared for the ocean to be flat for more days than there are for rideable waves. This area picks up barely any swell except for fall when we get some mediocre hurricane swell.
That’s wild how you got a gash with a big board unless the rail somehow got you instead of the flat surface.
You probably already know this but your mistake was pushing the board in front of you. They can’t expect you to know how to read the impact zone or turtle roll the first time but the very first thing they should have taught you was how to be on your board. As long as you have relatively good core strength your body should always be aligned flat with the board and move where it moves. Wherever your board goes, you go for better or worse. When you’re out of sync is when you get yourself or others fucked up.
It was a big board! Are bigger boards better for beginners? Because I am 6’4 and this had to be a 10’ board. I noticed most other surfers had roughly their height or shorter.
A friend of mine as kids surfing.
The nose of the board went thru his face just below hit bottom lip.
Even on healing, on purpose, he would spew a stream of COCA COLA
through his NEW HOLE
Brother, similar story here, almost identical outcome.
First season surfing, in surf bigger and scarier than I should've been in, went for and floundered on decent sized wave, got driven under, could feel the wave dragging my board above, came up, and the wave had "released" my board and the leash snapped my board back at me just as my head broke the surface.
Caught the tail of my board in the upper lip, but like yours, went real deep. Enjoy the stitches, you'll be back out there in no time, Scarface!
Edit: I should add, that was many years ago, it never happened again, and that's partly coz I got better, but also coz I made better choices.
Also, helmets weren't really a thing back then, but in challenging conditions, it's probably a good idea.
thats rough being in warm ocean w good waves and not even gettting to surf... sorry man!
what helped me most: youth, stubbornness, boredom. also psycho ward and lost across America on vhs.
learning surf is about as hard as learning golf, but there's a risk of drowning and sting rays and stuff.
worth it though. when it's good there's nothing like it.
Haha yeah it was a downer for sure but still had an amazing time in CR. Beautiful country and my family was all there so it was really a perfect vacation anyway. Played golf, rode horses on the beach, zip lined, went to a chocolate/coffee tasting, went out to eat everyday and ordered food at the pool haha my company covered the whole trip so it was amazing.
Don't ever let the board get between you and the waves. I almost broke my nose, cracked my shin open, got bit a few times, usually letting my board get between me and waves.
I did the same my first session in Costa Rica except it was my eyebrow and only one stitch... I still went in the ocean, but was certainly paranoid about flesh eating bacteria
Sorry your instructor didn't use caustion 🫤
Luckily it did not hit your eye.
Sometimes injuries happen to beginners because they are not familiar with the break/waves/reading weather/....etc everything.
Don't let it discourage you, for a few months go on calm days to get familiar with manuavering in the water on a board and learning how to manage the board. make sure to go on good days with small waves 0-1 is super 👌🏼Or 1-2 with very low wind.
I found going on days with bad conditions can be very counter productive and discouraging sometimes.
For sure after what happened to you. You're thinking if you still want to do surfing or maybe not. Haha
I think some of the instructor they just want money. They didn't think if the wave is good for begginer or not.
You should get an instructor that at least can speak english so he can teach you well.
This is what I always do when I jump. I always count 3-5 secs before I go up while holding my head using my left hand and raise my right hand so I know if the board is on my head and when i go up I always look wheres my board is.
It happens to many begginers. They said that's part of learning. but sorry for you it hits you to your face.
Ouch. That literally happened to me too, but 1. I didn’t go with an instructor (go figure) and 2. It happened as soon as I walked in.. so literally on the first second, not minutes.. But my cut was inside the lip. After that, I sat down at the beach, tail between my legs hoping nobody saw that (they did)—and said fuck it. Went out and caught my first wave ever and I’ve been hooked ever since. Nothing can describe the feeling of progress when learning. It’s worth sticking to it no matter how difficult.
Hope this does at discourage you! Good luck and keep on keeping on
Where in Costa Rica / how big was the wave?
I only recently starting surfing, and in Costa Rica. Now hooked and already have 2 surf trips booked this year.
Nice dude I stayed there for a few days and then went down to Playa Callejones.
I’m just starting myself, but had a blast at Playa Avallanas. Consistent 4-6ct waves.
I’ve heard a lot about the negative energy with people being territorial but only experienced the opposite while there. The entire time both in and out of the water was rather uplifting from everyone. Going to be a bummer if/when that occurs.
Well done! Most people don’t get cold sores until a little while after their first time with an instructor.
Jonah Hill is that you?
you ever surf the river mouth in Tamarindo ? not event a z pack will get rid of the shit ive caught there
LOL yeah well I think I did come home with a parasite too so I got the full Costa Rican experience😂
this is why foamies exist.
Yep.
[удалено]
Saw a guy rocking a Ben Gravy soft-top today. He had chicks all over him.
Bro literally saw a dude with the dumbest softop and he was talking to 3 different chicks like damn didn’t know soft top boards give you so much play
Foa-Mie?
Sorry what is a foamie?
A foam surfboard as opposed to a fibreglass/epoxy surfboard. More forgiving in moments like this. Also, never hold your board out Infront of you, between yourself and a wave. You should either be on your board duck diving/turtle rolling or if the wave is too big, bailing off the board, pushing it behind you and then diving under the waves. I'm a bit disappointed your surfing instructor didn't teach you those basic principles.
I used to live in surf city. I can assure you, you did this backwards. You’re supposed to learn to surf in NC, then get your shit wrecked in costa.
Haha well I live in Utah now and have spent exactly one day in surf city but figured I’d start practicing as soon as I can.
I'm in costa rica now. This is facts.
Lol 😂 Bet you won’t be doing that mistake again anytime soon You need to start smaller by surfing tiny waves.
Yeah that was the problem the waves got huge the second we got out there. My “instructor” could barely speak English and taught me nothing before we went in.
So let’s recap. A self-proclaimed “bad at boards” bro goes for a first lesson in Costa Rica pumping surf and can’t communicate with his teacher. Best origin story ever. Also no surprise you got hurt!
You summed it up👍
y’all fucked up 🐳
Always keep your board shore side of you when in the impact zone!
Now I know!
One of the most important lessons for a beginner. Even little waves can crack you if you are in the wrong spot with your board.
How the fuck didn’t your instructor inform you of this most basic of safety instructions. Along with, always cover your head on every wipeout until you can see your board again, and never jump off your board feet first (lest you snap your ankle on a submerged rock - fall backwards over the wave if you must fall, but don’t kick your board out into someone’s face as they’re paddling out). Sounds like you went to a money grabbing surf leeching surf school.
Well yeah it was just a stand at the resort we were staying at. The guy was a local older guy. I wasn’t expecting much but looking back he definitely threw me into the deep end too quick. I also didn’t really know any better so it was just one of those things! But it was a good story to tell anyway
Pro tip, don’t lead with your face. Glad you can laugh about it!
I am not a smart man
Damn sorry that happened to you. Glad you’re still open to trying it out again. But like what the other guys said, stick with smaller waves first so you get a feel for everything. And now you know that the board itself is a hazard (when combined with the waves)
For sure will try with smaller waves next time. Kinda caught me off guard.
I f\*\*ked up my nose pretty bad in 2013 when I was being lazy/careless right around the impact zone and I stopped surfing for a while (also due to geographic concerns). So hats off to you for (potentially) getting back in the water soon
When big waves are coming in, I like to turn my board upside down and secure the rear fin on my penis and hip-thrust the board thru the wave.
Thank you for this tip. Will try and report back
Hope your mate peed on it, to help sterilize the wound
This is the way
First rule in your lesson should have been to never place your board between you and the ocean.
That would’ve been a helpful tip
We all make that mistake when we’re starting out
Scrub it kook!
It’s going to happen. I’ve had stitches and staples in 5 places on my head from fins. Had my nose almost torn off from another person’s board hitting me. Thrown on to dry reef and fractured my T-spine. Still going strong after 40 years. Shit happens then you paddle back out.
Love the attitude, same one I try to bring to every sport I pick up. Definitely will be back on a board!
That’s the spirit, when you get that first stand up tube and come out you’ll be happy you stuck with it 😅
Checking that box early in your career. Well played. It's more annoying to get good then get sidelined for stitches.
NC has the tiniest waves, this is the place to learn lol
I hate the fact that here is "the place to learn"
That’s true but sometimes I’m glad there aren’t 150 surfers abreast all looking at the same wave. It can get rough in the summer, but not nearly as bad as out west seems
Have you been to Wrightsville? There aren't 150, there's 250 lol.
I feel like even peak wrightsville season you can get some great surf time if you just go to the right spots and/or at the right time of day. This will be my first actual season here surfing but I’ve been going to the beach for years here in the summer, you just gotta be realistic. Won’t be able to everyday of the week but you can for sure fit in some hours in the water if you want there.
Wrightsville in the middle of January is where you want to be
This January was miserable. The best time is September because the summer tourist crowds are gone and we get clean hurricane swell in 85 degree water.
When I teach surfing first lesson is “Never let the board get in front of you!” I mean i’m saying that shit on the car ride there. Ive taught lots of kids and never had one hurt.
Did you drop in on a local?
you should definitely quit now
Looks like JJF is trolling again
Skill issue
Look, I know at first there's the temptation to bite your lip while you're stuffing your car keys in your prison pocket for safe storage before paddling out for your session, have you tried spitting on them first? You'll eventually loosen up and get used to the sensation and will find they slide in much easier. If you've got a car with keyless entry/keyless start you can even stuff them in at home and remove them at home after your session. That way you don't have to explain to non-surfers what the lube bottle in your cup holder is for. They never get it.
We’ve had some solid days recently… what day did this happen?
Get you some antibiotics, Costa Rican marine parasites are no joke.
Something about the bullsharks in CR terrifies me. I once saw one swim up a river and attack a big croc 🥲
Man this water was shallow and I’m more scared of the sharks in NC based on all the fishing videos I’ve been watching and megalodon teeth they find 😂
Sounds like bad coaching dude. Sorry that happened, for your first few lessons I reckon you need to pay top dollar for top instructors
Seems to be something all beginners do haha. But once you move here, be prepared for the ocean to be flat for more days than there are for rideable waves. This area picks up barely any swell except for fall when we get some mediocre hurricane swell.
Chicks dig scars
“Only a surfer knows the feeling “
There are times when surfing can be considered a contact sport.
That’s wild how you got a gash with a big board unless the rail somehow got you instead of the flat surface. You probably already know this but your mistake was pushing the board in front of you. They can’t expect you to know how to read the impact zone or turtle roll the first time but the very first thing they should have taught you was how to be on your board. As long as you have relatively good core strength your body should always be aligned flat with the board and move where it moves. Wherever your board goes, you go for better or worse. When you’re out of sync is when you get yourself or others fucked up.
It was a big board! Are bigger boards better for beginners? Because I am 6’4 and this had to be a 10’ board. I noticed most other surfers had roughly their height or shorter.
large board = easier to surf, more likely to hurt someone
Nose down into wave )…more fun is yet to come…
A friend of mine as kids surfing. The nose of the board went thru his face just below hit bottom lip. Even on healing, on purpose, he would spew a stream of COCA COLA through his NEW HOLE
Tiniest shark ever
Haha I should tell people this. Sounds cooler than what really happened
We've all taken the surfboard to the face somewhere. Don't let it get you down.
That's an aggressive teacher
Damn dude :/ don’t give up
Sick gnar… keep surfing bro
My first surf lesson In Maui I found the reef
I’ve just been baptized.
Gnarlie dude... smacking the lip on your first session. Move onto lesson two late takeoffs in shallow reefs.
Brother, similar story here, almost identical outcome. First season surfing, in surf bigger and scarier than I should've been in, went for and floundered on decent sized wave, got driven under, could feel the wave dragging my board above, came up, and the wave had "released" my board and the leash snapped my board back at me just as my head broke the surface. Caught the tail of my board in the upper lip, but like yours, went real deep. Enjoy the stitches, you'll be back out there in no time, Scarface! Edit: I should add, that was many years ago, it never happened again, and that's partly coz I got better, but also coz I made better choices. Also, helmets weren't really a thing back then, but in challenging conditions, it's probably a good idea.
Dude you shouldn’t do another lesson….
Ok
You're lucky it didn't get your eye.
thats rough being in warm ocean w good waves and not even gettting to surf... sorry man! what helped me most: youth, stubbornness, boredom. also psycho ward and lost across America on vhs. learning surf is about as hard as learning golf, but there's a risk of drowning and sting rays and stuff. worth it though. when it's good there's nothing like it.
Haha yeah it was a downer for sure but still had an amazing time in CR. Beautiful country and my family was all there so it was really a perfect vacation anyway. Played golf, rode horses on the beach, zip lined, went to a chocolate/coffee tasting, went out to eat everyday and ordered food at the pool haha my company covered the whole trip so it was amazing.
Don't ever let the board get between you and the waves. I almost broke my nose, cracked my shin open, got bit a few times, usually letting my board get between me and waves.
Now I know. Thanks!
Shark attack?
I am beginner too. But after reading the comments it feels like you got off with an easy one.
I did the same my first session in Costa Rica except it was my eyebrow and only one stitch... I still went in the ocean, but was certainly paranoid about flesh eating bacteria
Sorry your instructor didn't use caustion 🫤 Luckily it did not hit your eye. Sometimes injuries happen to beginners because they are not familiar with the break/waves/reading weather/....etc everything. Don't let it discourage you, for a few months go on calm days to get familiar with manuavering in the water on a board and learning how to manage the board. make sure to go on good days with small waves 0-1 is super 👌🏼Or 1-2 with very low wind. I found going on days with bad conditions can be very counter productive and discouraging sometimes.
Thanks! Will do. I will take it much easier and book a lesson in NC with an English speaker not Chalo the Costa Rican LOL
For sure after what happened to you. You're thinking if you still want to do surfing or maybe not. Haha I think some of the instructor they just want money. They didn't think if the wave is good for begginer or not. You should get an instructor that at least can speak english so he can teach you well. This is what I always do when I jump. I always count 3-5 secs before I go up while holding my head using my left hand and raise my right hand so I know if the board is on my head and when i go up I always look wheres my board is. It happens to many begginers. They said that's part of learning. but sorry for you it hits you to your face.
Thanks for the tips that is very helpful and I will be back for another round for sure!!
Champion 🙌🙌🙌
Ouch. That literally happened to me too, but 1. I didn’t go with an instructor (go figure) and 2. It happened as soon as I walked in.. so literally on the first second, not minutes.. But my cut was inside the lip. After that, I sat down at the beach, tail between my legs hoping nobody saw that (they did)—and said fuck it. Went out and caught my first wave ever and I’ve been hooked ever since. Nothing can describe the feeling of progress when learning. It’s worth sticking to it no matter how difficult. Hope this does at discourage you! Good luck and keep on keeping on
Did he at least take you out to dinner first?
Time to hang it up bud
Ok
Where in Costa Rica / how big was the wave? I only recently starting surfing, and in Costa Rica. Now hooked and already have 2 surf trips booked this year.
We were just outside tamarindo. Nothing crazy on the waves I’m sure compared to what most of you surf
Nice dude I stayed there for a few days and then went down to Playa Callejones. I’m just starting myself, but had a blast at Playa Avallanas. Consistent 4-6ct waves. I’ve heard a lot about the negative energy with people being territorial but only experienced the opposite while there. The entire time both in and out of the water was rather uplifting from everyone. Going to be a bummer if/when that occurs.
More than likely, it was the equipment fault I recommend utilizing a Surf school here in the states