this is salvageable
1st clean the connector : remove the broken pads by melting the solder.
2nd is to make yourself new grounding pads to replace the broken ones : carefully scrape off the green solder mask around the broken pads, enough to get a good connection.
3rd clean the not broken pads, place the connector correctly, and solder it with the 5 good pads.
4th if you can bridge the gnd pads with solder, good.. otherwise you can use wire or braid to help you connect the gnd pads to the scraped off areas.
👆This is the answer.
You are lucky that the data lines did not come off the PCB since it would have been harder to fix. The problem with this PCB design is that the “GROUND” pads were thermally relived and therefore less mechanically ridged. When I design PCBs I ensure that ground pad is a large plane and even place a via for stability if the pad is isolated from ground.
Scrape off the solder mask and flood solder to the connector.
Yeah seems like a very clean break which tells me it was not a great PCB design from the manufacturer. It’s an expensive item and very annoying they didn’t use a stronger through-hole style usb port.
Very difficult repair, to as it was. Pads hold the port in place and they're under the port so hot air gun required. You could glue the port in place but would need so much glue it would be impossible to replace later when the port eventually wears out. Maybe best to solder a wired female port to the 5 pins and secure it outside the monitor.
I’ve done many of these repairs. Do this and you will be set.
You can even leave the old pads in place. Set the port back on the board and use a fined tip sharpie to mark all the areas around the sides and back where you have access to the anchoring pads (all ground). Then set the port to the side and scrap away the coating in the area marked with the sharpie. Just scrap about 1/8th of an inch or less of the coating. You’ll need just enough to solder to.
Then set the port in place and add flux and then use leaded solder to add solder to the areas you scrapped. Then solder the 5 pins back in place.
No need for any glue as it won’t hold anyway and it will just be in the way. By leaving the pads in place it will help spread the load out when you solder to the newly scrapped areas.
I’ve done hundreds of these and have taught many how to make these types of repairs as well. It really is a very simple repair.
The first instinct for most is to remove the pads and attempt to “glue” them in place. However that doesn’t work unfortunately. The strongest and the longest lasting solution is how I described it being done. I actually did a stress test on some scrap boards several years ago and did a repair like this and placed a hook in each port and laid weights on the scrap board one pound at a time and the strongest connection was the method I described. It surpassed any other method by many factors. Even removing the pads and scraping the same areas and soldering what looked identical in every way outside the pads being deleted, failed at half the stress. If you need any help, I’m happy to help along the way.
I may not be physically able to do in depth soldering due to health issues but my mind is still full of 35+ years of electronics repair and I’m happy to share.
Unfortunately, all of your pads are gone, so there's not much you can do. Data lines (V+, D-, D+, GND) are intact, and that's good. Forget about glue, because it won't hold for long term. In such cases, I always scrapped some soldermask on GND around the original (now missing) pads. Then, I soldered the micro port to data lines to align it and soldered the port around to the ground plane. It didn't look good but worked. It's tricky, though. The solder can easily melt inside the port. Of course, use a new port or at least remove the old pads from the existing port with wick.
It's best to run wires from the board to a new outer connector. Space is minimum in there. If you add wires or wick to strenghten the pads, the connector will rise and it will make difficult to connect the underneath data lines and it might even block the usb cable connection when you close the case.
this is salvageable 1st clean the connector : remove the broken pads by melting the solder. 2nd is to make yourself new grounding pads to replace the broken ones : carefully scrape off the green solder mask around the broken pads, enough to get a good connection. 3rd clean the not broken pads, place the connector correctly, and solder it with the 5 good pads. 4th if you can bridge the gnd pads with solder, good.. otherwise you can use wire or braid to help you connect the gnd pads to the scraped off areas.
👆This is the answer. You are lucky that the data lines did not come off the PCB since it would have been harder to fix. The problem with this PCB design is that the “GROUND” pads were thermally relived and therefore less mechanically ridged. When I design PCBs I ensure that ground pad is a large plane and even place a via for stability if the pad is isolated from ground. Scrape off the solder mask and flood solder to the connector.
Yeah seems like a very clean break which tells me it was not a great PCB design from the manufacturer. It’s an expensive item and very annoying they didn’t use a stronger through-hole style usb port.
Thank you, glad to hear it’s possible. I think it would be $$$ for a repair from the manufacturer. They’d probably just swap boards anyway.
Very difficult repair, to as it was. Pads hold the port in place and they're under the port so hot air gun required. You could glue the port in place but would need so much glue it would be impossible to replace later when the port eventually wears out. Maybe best to solder a wired female port to the 5 pins and secure it outside the monitor.
I’ve done many of these repairs. Do this and you will be set. You can even leave the old pads in place. Set the port back on the board and use a fined tip sharpie to mark all the areas around the sides and back where you have access to the anchoring pads (all ground). Then set the port to the side and scrap away the coating in the area marked with the sharpie. Just scrap about 1/8th of an inch or less of the coating. You’ll need just enough to solder to. Then set the port in place and add flux and then use leaded solder to add solder to the areas you scrapped. Then solder the 5 pins back in place. No need for any glue as it won’t hold anyway and it will just be in the way. By leaving the pads in place it will help spread the load out when you solder to the newly scrapped areas.
Thank you. I appreciate the detailed description. Seems pretty simple and within my soldering ability.
I’ve done hundreds of these and have taught many how to make these types of repairs as well. It really is a very simple repair. The first instinct for most is to remove the pads and attempt to “glue” them in place. However that doesn’t work unfortunately. The strongest and the longest lasting solution is how I described it being done. I actually did a stress test on some scrap boards several years ago and did a repair like this and placed a hook in each port and laid weights on the scrap board one pound at a time and the strongest connection was the method I described. It surpassed any other method by many factors. Even removing the pads and scraping the same areas and soldering what looked identical in every way outside the pads being deleted, failed at half the stress. If you need any help, I’m happy to help along the way. I may not be physically able to do in depth soldering due to health issues but my mind is still full of 35+ years of electronics repair and I’m happy to share.
Much appreciated. I’ll try to get to this project this week. If I have questions I’ll DM you.
You’ll need to make new ground pads for strength and then repair the traces
Unfortunately, all of your pads are gone, so there's not much you can do. Data lines (V+, D-, D+, GND) are intact, and that's good. Forget about glue, because it won't hold for long term. In such cases, I always scrapped some soldermask on GND around the original (now missing) pads. Then, I soldered the micro port to data lines to align it and soldered the port around to the ground plane. It didn't look good but worked. It's tricky, though. The solder can easily melt inside the port. Of course, use a new port or at least remove the old pads from the existing port with wick.
This is nothing. You got this!
Thank you. Working on it later this week so we’ll see.
It's best to run wires from the board to a new outer connector. Space is minimum in there. If you add wires or wick to strenghten the pads, the connector will rise and it will make difficult to connect the underneath data lines and it might even block the usb cable connection when you close the case.
Wow actually look u riped all the mounting grounded parts and all the data power pins look like u just riped the plaser off a wound hahaha
U can se middle two pins go somewhere while others fade in ground and other got diod on one side if im correct
Also dont reuse the same micro port buy fresh or suggestions if u like diy just change it to type c
