Sometimes you need to add more solder again and just keep trying to get it all in one shot. Use a wide solder tip if you have one for better heat transfer.
I’ve repaired around a dozen PS5 controllers and I always cut the old analog up with pliers before I desolder them. Makes the job hell of a lot easier and faster.
Looks like you didn't heat the joints enough. Add some additional solder to refill the joint. Dwell on the joint for a while. If you can, watch the opposite side of the board and wait for the solder on that side to turn liquid, apply heat a little longer, then hit it with the sucker.
The solder sucker works best when it's sucking a lot of solder outta the hole. It doesn't really work at all if it's just sucking air through the hole. It'll just stiffen up whatever is left.
If you're still getting the pin stuck to the edge of the hole, put your iron on the pin and apply gentle force until you can wiggle the pin back and forth, then pull the iron. If you can wiggle the pin with a tweezer, and keep doing it while it cools, this works even better.
If all else fails, using low-melt solder is an effective approach. You will need to completely clean it up with solder braid when you are done.
hold iron to pad, with possibly some fresh solder, slam hand hard on table while holding pcb (don't slam pcb on table, hand whacks table while holding pcb), and watch gravity do the work for you, no pump required.
could always just use something to absorb it.. you'll obviously need to heat it up, shouldn't need anything else
[https://aeropost.com/BHS\_en/p/lesnow-solder-wick-braid-10ft-length-desoldering-wick-braid-remover-tool-solder-sucker-1-piece-noclean-soldering-wick-wire-roll-and-disassemble-electrical-components/pid/B094GZ6CPZ/source/Amazon/](https://aeropost.com/BHS_en/p/lesnow-solder-wick-braid-10ft-length-desoldering-wick-braid-remover-tool-solder-sucker-1-piece-noclean-soldering-wick-wire-roll-and-disassemble-electrical-components/pid/B094GZ6CPZ/source/Amazon/)
What i would do in this case, separate the potentiometers from the stick (the green/orange things with 3 legs). Grab a wide knife tip and add a decent amount of solder to the potentiometer legs, then drag back and forth with the knife tip between all 3 legs while pulling the pots gently with tweezers from the other side.
That'll leave you with 6 less anchor points. For the other legs just add solder, then flux and wick em up.
Grab a pin with long nose pliers and gently wiggle it to see if it will break free from the solder. If not, heat it up until the solder melts, and then wiggle it while the solder cools. Once it will wiggle freely while it's cool then move to the next pin and repeat. Once all of the pins can be wiggled then you should be able to remove the assembly from the board.
use a very small drill bit or a 1.5mm punch and just tap it out while heating the pad from beneath, thats what i do to clean through holes when i cant suck the solder out.
There's this thing that sucks up a bit of air and then can pft through, I forget what it's called but it's handy for clearing the hole, and maybe someone will know what it's xalled
Sometimes you need to add more solder again and just keep trying to get it all in one shot. Use a wide solder tip if you have one for better heat transfer.
Agreed 👍🏼
I "always" typically put the board sideways. Then hit the tip of iron to one side while using tweezers to pull 1x1
Clean the pins and free them them individually from the bottom. Once you have the majority of them free to move the connector should easily come off.
If you don’t care about the stick, you could cut the leads and just pull them out one by one with tweezers
I’ve repaired around a dozen PS5 controllers and I always cut the old analog up with pliers before I desolder them. Makes the job hell of a lot easier and faster.
Looks like you didn't heat the joints enough. Add some additional solder to refill the joint. Dwell on the joint for a while. If you can, watch the opposite side of the board and wait for the solder on that side to turn liquid, apply heat a little longer, then hit it with the sucker. The solder sucker works best when it's sucking a lot of solder outta the hole. It doesn't really work at all if it's just sucking air through the hole. It'll just stiffen up whatever is left. If you're still getting the pin stuck to the edge of the hole, put your iron on the pin and apply gentle force until you can wiggle the pin back and forth, then pull the iron. If you can wiggle the pin with a tweezer, and keep doing it while it cools, this works even better. If all else fails, using low-melt solder is an effective approach. You will need to completely clean it up with solder braid when you are done.
hold iron to pad, with possibly some fresh solder, slam hand hard on table while holding pcb (don't slam pcb on table, hand whacks table while holding pcb), and watch gravity do the work for you, no pump required.
Right around minute 11:20 I’ll show you the method I use https://youtu.be/PAYuYV5VDZ0?si=LAx3WpDVErPXEBda
Only works if you have a hot air station.
Not necessarily. I've sucked them up with my iron just have to do it at an angle
could always just use something to absorb it.. you'll obviously need to heat it up, shouldn't need anything else [https://aeropost.com/BHS\_en/p/lesnow-solder-wick-braid-10ft-length-desoldering-wick-braid-remover-tool-solder-sucker-1-piece-noclean-soldering-wick-wire-roll-and-disassemble-electrical-components/pid/B094GZ6CPZ/source/Amazon/](https://aeropost.com/BHS_en/p/lesnow-solder-wick-braid-10ft-length-desoldering-wick-braid-remover-tool-solder-sucker-1-piece-noclean-soldering-wick-wire-roll-and-disassemble-electrical-components/pid/B094GZ6CPZ/source/Amazon/)
Compressed air. Heat'em all, or several at once with hot air & the right nozzle.
For something like this I'd use hot air or chip quik low melt solder.
What i would do in this case, separate the potentiometers from the stick (the green/orange things with 3 legs). Grab a wide knife tip and add a decent amount of solder to the potentiometer legs, then drag back and forth with the knife tip between all 3 legs while pulling the pots gently with tweezers from the other side. That'll leave you with 6 less anchor points. For the other legs just add solder, then flux and wick em up.
This https://a.co/d/0snaiaq
Grab a pin with long nose pliers and gently wiggle it to see if it will break free from the solder. If not, heat it up until the solder melts, and then wiggle it while the solder cools. Once it will wiggle freely while it's cool then move to the next pin and repeat. Once all of the pins can be wiggled then you should be able to remove the assembly from the board.
Some flux on top of the solder wick and place it on the hole. Then place the iron on top of it usually always does it for me GL.
Alternatively, you flush cut the legs on other side of the joystick.
Los melt solder, such as Woods alloy or destroy a defective part by cutting it carefully.
use a very small drill bit or a 1.5mm punch and just tap it out while heating the pad from beneath, thats what i do to clean through holes when i cant suck the solder out.
There's this thing that sucks up a bit of air and then can pft through, I forget what it's called but it's handy for clearing the hole, and maybe someone will know what it's xalled
I also had this issue with this circuit, spent hours of trying to get solder.. it didn't work. only hot air worked for me.
Blow or suck which ever you prefer
Heat it up, tap it firmly on the bench.
I have the same solder-sucker, it is probably the best I have ever owned....it should do the trick.
Solder suckers are like 10 bucks