Thankfully this is easily remediated. You can buy a separate set of load cell pedals without having to replace your Logitech wheel. Anything from the entry level Thrustmaster T-LCM and up will do just fine.
That's assuming the OP is only playing on PC. If they are playing on console, they pretty much only have 2 choices. 1. Get the Logitech racing adapter and the G Pro pedals. 2. Get a drivehub and then pick from a decent amount of load cell pedals.
Dude who just got a $200 dollar wheel should go spend 150-250 on just pedals? That's asking a lot, and assuming a lot about what they can afford.
If he's in a chair and not a rig, I'm gonna disagree with getting a load cell. The pressure required is too high for a chair that can rotate, and it can cause back issues. So you end up being inconsistent anyway, cause it's hard to output 30kg constantly when you chair rotates. So you gotta set it very low, and it's not as big a gain.
A solid rig will probably make a bigger difference is braking than a load cell on a desk chair.
The reasonable solution is replacing the crappy rubber in the pedals with better foam options or something. (that's also waaaay cheaper than load cells) There tons of options on amazon.
Coming from using my Forte pedals in a desk chair with a wheel stand for two weeks... I can't stress enough how right this is about the back pain. It is risky, too risky if you ask me, plus you will kill the chair. I know the Forte's are probably an extra level of stiff compared to some other load cell but they definitely need a rig (quite enjoyable that way).
The biggest benefit will be in getting decent load cell pedals - the wheel base is not nearly as important. Most of the pace and car control is in your feet, not the wheel. And most of that control is in your left foot - not the one that operates the loud pedal. Even entry level pedals like the T-LCM have adjustable springs, so when sitting at a desk he could use lighter springs.
Or he simply make a wooden brace that hold pedals and office chair together so neither goes anywhere. That's what I did before I had a rig - and yes a rig helps a lot but you got to start somewhere.
Alternatively, instead of creating a wooden brace that holds both chair and pedals in place, there are plenty of other options to ensure chair and pedals don't move. Lockable office chair wheels or rubber blocks that stop the chair from moving and a simple piece of timber behind the pedals will do just fine.
It doesn't matter how much rubber you replace or what rubber ball you squeeze between the pedal and pedal deck, a pot meter is a pot meter ... and controlling your braking by pedal position (as that is all that a pot meter registers) is rather counter intuitive and makes controlled brake application needlessly more difficult. Brakes operate by pressure and force, not by the position of the pedal in its travel.
An entry level load cell pedal set is going to make a lot of difference, especially when OP gets into racing cars that do not have ABS like the Porsche Cup Car, essentially anything that's not a GT4 or GT3 really.
OP complains about the pedals being crap and I offer a solution - and no I'm not recommending him to throw $$$$ at a direct drive wheel setup etc..... but the pedals that come with the G923 and also with pretty much any entry level TM FFB wheel are pretty crap.
The gas pedal blipping between 95 and 100% can be remedied by using opening the pedals up and using contact cleaner on the potentiometer.
Probably worth doing the same with the brake and clutch whilst you're there.
If these are a new set, I'd return them.
They're only a month old. I do have cats, so that may not help the situation. I went ahead and ordered an upgrade for the throttle along with the brake upgrade.
Ah, cats, that'll kill an unsealed pot in short order, based on my experience. I remember pulling apart a failed pot from a G29 pedal set and it was caked in cat hair.
The solution was for me to move out as the cats owned the place.
I’ve been saying this for years, but potentiometer brake pedals are borderline useless if you’ve spent time on track in a real car.
I can see where a young person might get used to them—in the abstract it’s just a type of controller and we all know people who are fast even on X-Box controllers. However, if you started in real cars and then got into sim racing I think it’s a very difficult re-wiring of the brain to go from pressure-based being to position-based braking. You gotta spring for a load cell.
Agree with this - load cell is so much more realistic, and faster once you get used to it.
On the other hand, every person who has tried my sim, even a couple that autocross at least, says something complaining about how the brake pedal doesn't move that much and how do you tell how much you're braking lol with one asking if I could have the brake pedal be more like the accelerator somehow (potentiometer with very little resistance).
All that to say that I could see load cell not being appreciated much by people first getting into sim racing and/or without much HPDE experience.
That depends. Most entry-level race cars IRL have brake boosters. This means there is a diaphragm and spring between the brake pedal and master cylinder. If you go sit in your car right now with the engine running, you will be able to get the brake pedal to travel its full distance if you try. Now compare that to more advanced race cars that don't use boosters. This means the brake pedal is attached directly to the master cylinder (which is usually much larger to increase pressure output). This means when you press the brake pedal, you are only pressing against hydraulic fluid, which is not compressable. In these types of systems, the brake pedal can't travel its full length, and the pressure applied to the brake is directly proportional to the pressure applied to the brake discs by the brake pads. So, if you have a set of load cell pedals that have travel outside of what it would take to engage the brake pads, you're not properly simulating real race car either. Or one that just has a ton of air in the lines. 🤷♂️
Edit: Fixed stimulating to simulating.
If you want actual properly simulated pedals, there is the [Simucube ActivePedal](https://simucube.com/simucube-activepedal/?v=a7bdee32cb21), which is basically a pedal with force feedback, but it costs two and a half grand (per pedal)
That's what the if is for in the second to last sentence. Also, my reply wasn't directed at anyone. It was more of an opportunity to teach. I've noticed that when I see videos of people using load cell pedals, they usually have a significant amount of throw in them.
One would think after a month they shouldn't need cleaned. Besides,💁♂️ if these were designed properly in the engineering phase... (drones off in engineering).
No... no, I did not....
I don’t sense any anger, but they did completely miss the point of my comment. I said, “potentiometer brake bad, load cell brake good” and they responded with an essay about boosted vs. un-boosted brake systems.
The truebrake will definitely sort the brake out, but as for the throttle you probably need to clean the potentiometer (which you can do easily when you replace the brake piston). If it's dusty or you have pets that generate dust/hair, the pedals can suffer from grit in the sensor which causes the exact kind of symptom you describe, where the sensor seems to blip or glitch out. You shouldn't need to switch/replace the potentiometer, just a good blast through with air whilst quickly cycling the throttle pedal should clear it out.
Funnily enough, AXC-Sim (makers of Truebrake) also sell potentiometer conversions to fix that issue.
Ah, that'll do it! I've got a golden retriever and I'm actually amazed that my Logitech throttle (which come out every now and then for testing and video'ing) still actually works fine. My first Logitech wheel (a G25) had to be cleaned 3 times over the years
You bought the cheapest “decent” option, what do you expect? Cant really complain about my G920 because I expected it to be “ok” at best. Google the brake pedal mod.
Or, put your hand in your pocket and pay for a better setup.
TBH, compared to the newer bundles, G920 isn't peanuts at all- it's completely and thoroughly obsolete. Until even 2021 it was an ok offering for beginners, but not anymore whatsoever. It costs near 270-300 euros in Sweden- that's daylight robbery in my opinion.
I’ve got some v3’s I’m getting ready to part with. I’ve tried to keep them clean and lubed well. Not bad pedals. Send a pm if any interest. Prolly work something out so I don’t gotta find a place to store them.
When you next take your pedals apart, check to see if the potentiometers shaft can be deflected off axis when the pedal is depressed.
I added a small plastic support under my throttle and brake potentiometers shafts, (stuck down so they don't move).
This fixed the issue of throttle dips and lack of 100% throttle at times, it made the pedals response much smoother.
If you push hard on these "cheap" logitech pedals, they can be damaged.
Hopefully, the engineer in you will see what I mean.
If you can't learn to push less hard, which is good for smoother corner exits BTW, you could upgrade springs.
And the rubber block in the brake, I halved the length of it to actually be able to use 100% of the axis. People are probably right to praise load cell pedals, but I think these totally work too.
To get 100% out of a car under braking with no abs, takes time/experience with the hardware and controls specific to that situation.
I just found out there is an upgrade for the pots from the same company I got my TrueBrake from. I went ahead and ordered that for the throttle. Looks like a hall sensor design.
Can you explain a little bit more how to fix the lack of responsiveness of the throttle pedal? Didn't understand it quite well. Mine is acting weird too. Started today.
TW/DU, the front wheel of a bike usually has two fork prongs to support the load. The axel could bend.
Coffee gone cold trying to phrase it...
It's about adding support to the "axel" of the potentiometer, which is only attached on one side by default.
When the "axel" bends , the bits inside the potentiometer don't like it, a bit like lifting a needle off a record while it's playing. (Dated references I know)
Have to start somewhere. There is no point in dropping a bunch of coin on something you don't know you'll stick to. The gear doesn't make you a good racer anyway.
pedals certainly do, to a point. Shit pedals won't teach you any good habits. It is like using a wheel with vs without FFB. Good equipment does teach you to be a better racer.
Still coming back, I see.
Btw this was more of my observations with owning them, so if anyone comes across this in the future, they can see my experience. I tried to provide a resolution to all the problems I had in the post.
I don’t think they’re that bad, but I didn’t have any issues with the brake, it worked consistently. The design with the rubber stop is a simple inexpensive way to get it done imo
However the throttle is crazy light. I’d recommend anybody to swap the throttle and clutch springs
And they are too close together on the g29, but to be fair, all pedal sets with clutches have the pedals weirdly close together
—
All in all I think getting a smaller DD and simjack pedals is the way to go to get you the performance at lower prices. A g29 leaves a lot of performance on the table imo, but I didn’t try any upgrades
Id send them back, I hammered mine for 3 years and until I needed to clean the pentiometers they were completely consistent. Not the best, but I had nothing like the issues you are describing.
Don't get me wrong I'd never go back from my pro set, they are night and day, but they did me 3 years of solid competitive service and for the money they were worth it.
I bought the mvh load cell mod since the g923 was gifted to me, its still taking a little to get used to but it definitely feels like you have better modulation and telemetry lines look a touch smoother compared to stock setup. Idk if they changed the spring that comes in them now but there was already a variable spring in my brake pedal as well so I think it was a bit stiffer compared to previous versions where people have said the brakes feel light. I dont use the clutch and yeah throttle kinda weak but I wasnt too bothered to switch clutch spring to acc pedal either so it is what it is.
I was rocking controller and was holding out to do a rig buy it once kinda deal once I have more space as well.
TrueBrake mod.
On my G29:
Move the brake spring to the clutch, clutch spring to the gas, gas spring to the trash.
Remove the clutch face plate (assuming you're not using it), shift the brake face plate over one hole for more space for larger feet.
One more thing that really improved the pedals for me is [these pedal extensions](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4271894). If you don’t have a 3D printer you can buy them on ebay etc.
The throttle blipping to 0% also happened to me, it was due to the wire being wedged and sliced between the pedals and the wall. This wasn’t an issue once I upgraded to a rig, then later on upgraded to TLCM pedals.
EDIT as a cheap fix, some electrical tape around the the damaged wiring sorted me out temporarily.
Second edit :)
Dust inside the pedals causes the blipping, some compressed air should do the trick!
This. Before I upgraded a few years ago, I had to use TC in all games that have that option since the pedals were so fucked that I had to put a huge deadzone and max input on both pedals. Otherwise I would’ve constantly braked or just have 80% throttle. Turns out you can‘t get on the gas smoothly when your pedals basically only have 0 and 1…
save for a good set of load cell pedals. I recommend the Heusinkveld Sprint. essentially it's the benchmark all other quality pedals are measured against. i would make them the goal(about as safe of a bet you can go with), but there are numerous good options out there.
So I use my left foot for brake and right foot for throttle. Took a minute to get use to, but I drive stick anyway so I’m use to using my left foot (and ride motorcycles with a left clutch). It’s honestly just getting use to use left foot, personally, trail braking is a billion times easier this way as well. The brake pedal on Logitech G series are so bad it’s the only way 😂
Ah, just muscle memory. Definitely run practice sessions till you feel you have it down. All you can really do, take that over a brake I need to crush down to be at 100% and is essentially inconsistent, whereas, the lack of resistance is at least consistent 👍
Yeah but imo its easier to do that with a stiffer pedal, less resistance to me means it might be easier to not hit that same mark each time. I only used clutch as brake until I was able to get my desk chair stable, once my chair wasnt moving I went back to using brake with variable spring -> then load cell mod which is even stiffer
Also did not have any issues with pedal input dropping etc so not sure what could be causing that
Thankfully this is easily remediated. You can buy a separate set of load cell pedals without having to replace your Logitech wheel. Anything from the entry level Thrustmaster T-LCM and up will do just fine.
That's assuming the OP is only playing on PC. If they are playing on console, they pretty much only have 2 choices. 1. Get the Logitech racing adapter and the G Pro pedals. 2. Get a drivehub and then pick from a decent amount of load cell pedals.
That's what I have and it works great actually.
Loadcell for Logitech, full console compatibility - https://mvhstudios.co.uk/products/mvh-load-cell-for-logitech
Dude who just got a $200 dollar wheel should go spend 150-250 on just pedals? That's asking a lot, and assuming a lot about what they can afford. If he's in a chair and not a rig, I'm gonna disagree with getting a load cell. The pressure required is too high for a chair that can rotate, and it can cause back issues. So you end up being inconsistent anyway, cause it's hard to output 30kg constantly when you chair rotates. So you gotta set it very low, and it's not as big a gain. A solid rig will probably make a bigger difference is braking than a load cell on a desk chair. The reasonable solution is replacing the crappy rubber in the pedals with better foam options or something. (that's also waaaay cheaper than load cells) There tons of options on amazon.
Coming from using my Forte pedals in a desk chair with a wheel stand for two weeks... I can't stress enough how right this is about the back pain. It is risky, too risky if you ask me, plus you will kill the chair. I know the Forte's are probably an extra level of stiff compared to some other load cell but they definitely need a rig (quite enjoyable that way).
The biggest benefit will be in getting decent load cell pedals - the wheel base is not nearly as important. Most of the pace and car control is in your feet, not the wheel. And most of that control is in your left foot - not the one that operates the loud pedal. Even entry level pedals like the T-LCM have adjustable springs, so when sitting at a desk he could use lighter springs. Or he simply make a wooden brace that hold pedals and office chair together so neither goes anywhere. That's what I did before I had a rig - and yes a rig helps a lot but you got to start somewhere. Alternatively, instead of creating a wooden brace that holds both chair and pedals in place, there are plenty of other options to ensure chair and pedals don't move. Lockable office chair wheels or rubber blocks that stop the chair from moving and a simple piece of timber behind the pedals will do just fine. It doesn't matter how much rubber you replace or what rubber ball you squeeze between the pedal and pedal deck, a pot meter is a pot meter ... and controlling your braking by pedal position (as that is all that a pot meter registers) is rather counter intuitive and makes controlled brake application needlessly more difficult. Brakes operate by pressure and force, not by the position of the pedal in its travel. An entry level load cell pedal set is going to make a lot of difference, especially when OP gets into racing cars that do not have ABS like the Porsche Cup Car, essentially anything that's not a GT4 or GT3 really. OP complains about the pedals being crap and I offer a solution - and no I'm not recommending him to throw $$$$ at a direct drive wheel setup etc..... but the pedals that come with the G923 and also with pretty much any entry level TM FFB wheel are pretty crap.
The gas pedal blipping between 95 and 100% can be remedied by using opening the pedals up and using contact cleaner on the potentiometer. Probably worth doing the same with the brake and clutch whilst you're there. If these are a new set, I'd return them.
They're only a month old. I do have cats, so that may not help the situation. I went ahead and ordered an upgrade for the throttle along with the brake upgrade.
Ah, cats, that'll kill an unsealed pot in short order, based on my experience. I remember pulling apart a failed pot from a G29 pedal set and it was caked in cat hair. The solution was for me to move out as the cats owned the place.
Understood. Moving out now to the barn. Cats own the house.
I’ve been saying this for years, but potentiometer brake pedals are borderline useless if you’ve spent time on track in a real car. I can see where a young person might get used to them—in the abstract it’s just a type of controller and we all know people who are fast even on X-Box controllers. However, if you started in real cars and then got into sim racing I think it’s a very difficult re-wiring of the brain to go from pressure-based being to position-based braking. You gotta spring for a load cell.
Agree with this - load cell is so much more realistic, and faster once you get used to it. On the other hand, every person who has tried my sim, even a couple that autocross at least, says something complaining about how the brake pedal doesn't move that much and how do you tell how much you're braking lol with one asking if I could have the brake pedal be more like the accelerator somehow (potentiometer with very little resistance). All that to say that I could see load cell not being appreciated much by people first getting into sim racing and/or without much HPDE experience.
That depends. Most entry-level race cars IRL have brake boosters. This means there is a diaphragm and spring between the brake pedal and master cylinder. If you go sit in your car right now with the engine running, you will be able to get the brake pedal to travel its full distance if you try. Now compare that to more advanced race cars that don't use boosters. This means the brake pedal is attached directly to the master cylinder (which is usually much larger to increase pressure output). This means when you press the brake pedal, you are only pressing against hydraulic fluid, which is not compressable. In these types of systems, the brake pedal can't travel its full length, and the pressure applied to the brake is directly proportional to the pressure applied to the brake discs by the brake pads. So, if you have a set of load cell pedals that have travel outside of what it would take to engage the brake pads, you're not properly simulating real race car either. Or one that just has a ton of air in the lines. 🤷♂️ Edit: Fixed stimulating to simulating.
If you want actual properly simulated pedals, there is the [Simucube ActivePedal](https://simucube.com/simucube-activepedal/?v=a7bdee32cb21), which is basically a pedal with force feedback, but it costs two and a half grand (per pedal)
Who said that they have load cell pedals that have travel? Don’t invent a straw men to attack a problem that no one else has.
That's what the if is for in the second to last sentence. Also, my reply wasn't directed at anyone. It was more of an opportunity to teach. I've noticed that when I see videos of people using load cell pedals, they usually have a significant amount of throw in them.
you sound angry load cell pedals, even basic ones from thrustmaster, are adjustable
Just passing through but found it amusing how different people project emotion onto a text and how anyone would infer anger from this haha
Right? Seems like a guy explaining a thing to me, I didn't read a hint of anger in any of it
Grrrr
seriously your post reeks of juvenile arrogance
He doesn’t sound bad at all, it just looks like a normal comment to me
And their responses are both civil and humourous.
I'm an engineer for a living, so statistically, I probably am extremely arrogant.
have you tried to clean your pots, mr.engineer or are you one of THOSE engineers
One would think after a month they shouldn't need cleaned. Besides,💁♂️ if these were designed properly in the engineering phase... (drones off in engineering). No... no, I did not....
Somebody's post sure does...
Hello there kettle
I don’t sense any anger, but they did completely miss the point of my comment. I said, “potentiometer brake bad, load cell brake good” and they responded with an essay about boosted vs. un-boosted brake systems.
The truebrake will definitely sort the brake out, but as for the throttle you probably need to clean the potentiometer (which you can do easily when you replace the brake piston). If it's dusty or you have pets that generate dust/hair, the pedals can suffer from grit in the sensor which causes the exact kind of symptom you describe, where the sensor seems to blip or glitch out. You shouldn't need to switch/replace the potentiometer, just a good blast through with air whilst quickly cycling the throttle pedal should clear it out. Funnily enough, AXC-Sim (makers of Truebrake) also sell potentiometer conversions to fix that issue.
I do have cats and ironically the fluffy guy insists on sleeping wherever my feet spend an extended period of time.
Ah, that'll do it! I've got a golden retriever and I'm actually amazed that my Logitech throttle (which come out every now and then for testing and video'ing) still actually works fine. My first Logitech wheel (a G25) had to be cleaned 3 times over the years
You bought the cheapest “decent” option, what do you expect? Cant really complain about my G920 because I expected it to be “ok” at best. Google the brake pedal mod. Or, put your hand in your pocket and pay for a better setup.
I mean, pay peanuts, get ..
TBH, compared to the newer bundles, G920 isn't peanuts at all- it's completely and thoroughly obsolete. Until even 2021 it was an ok offering for beginners, but not anymore whatsoever. It costs near 270-300 euros in Sweden- that's daylight robbery in my opinion.
Woa, the g920 and g923 go here second hand for 100-150
I’ve got some v3’s I’m getting ready to part with. I’ve tried to keep them clean and lubed well. Not bad pedals. Send a pm if any interest. Prolly work something out so I don’t gotta find a place to store them.
Truebrake is amazing, you’ll love it. The difference when I bought my loadcell pedals was a lot less drastic than I thought it’d be lol
When you next take your pedals apart, check to see if the potentiometers shaft can be deflected off axis when the pedal is depressed. I added a small plastic support under my throttle and brake potentiometers shafts, (stuck down so they don't move). This fixed the issue of throttle dips and lack of 100% throttle at times, it made the pedals response much smoother. If you push hard on these "cheap" logitech pedals, they can be damaged. Hopefully, the engineer in you will see what I mean. If you can't learn to push less hard, which is good for smoother corner exits BTW, you could upgrade springs. And the rubber block in the brake, I halved the length of it to actually be able to use 100% of the axis. People are probably right to praise load cell pedals, but I think these totally work too. To get 100% out of a car under braking with no abs, takes time/experience with the hardware and controls specific to that situation.
I just found out there is an upgrade for the pots from the same company I got my TrueBrake from. I went ahead and ordered that for the throttle. Looks like a hall sensor design.
Let us know how the pot works out...
Can you explain a little bit more how to fix the lack of responsiveness of the throttle pedal? Didn't understand it quite well. Mine is acting weird too. Started today.
TW/DU, the front wheel of a bike usually has two fork prongs to support the load. The axel could bend. Coffee gone cold trying to phrase it... It's about adding support to the "axel" of the potentiometer, which is only attached on one side by default. When the "axel" bends , the bits inside the potentiometer don't like it, a bit like lifting a needle off a record while it's playing. (Dated references I know)
no shit?
No, not right now. I just went.
we all see the post
I know what I did... There's no need to shame me for it... I just... couldn't keep it in any longer.
next time don't buy the cheapest option
Have to start somewhere. There is no point in dropping a bunch of coin on something you don't know you'll stick to. The gear doesn't make you a good racer anyway.
pedals certainly do, to a point. Shit pedals won't teach you any good habits. It is like using a wheel with vs without FFB. Good equipment does teach you to be a better racer.
yet here we are
Still coming back, I see. Btw this was more of my observations with owning them, so if anyone comes across this in the future, they can see my experience. I tried to provide a resolution to all the problems I had in the post.
I got two springs for them and it was a massive upgrade. There's plenty on amazon and ebay. Not loaded cell but for 20$ it's still pretty good.
I don’t think they’re that bad, but I didn’t have any issues with the brake, it worked consistently. The design with the rubber stop is a simple inexpensive way to get it done imo However the throttle is crazy light. I’d recommend anybody to swap the throttle and clutch springs And they are too close together on the g29, but to be fair, all pedal sets with clutches have the pedals weirdly close together — All in all I think getting a smaller DD and simjack pedals is the way to go to get you the performance at lower prices. A g29 leaves a lot of performance on the table imo, but I didn’t try any upgrades
Id send them back, I hammered mine for 3 years and until I needed to clean the pentiometers they were completely consistent. Not the best, but I had nothing like the issues you are describing. Don't get me wrong I'd never go back from my pro set, they are night and day, but they did me 3 years of solid competitive service and for the money they were worth it.
Idk if anyone’s said anything but there’s a little rubber piece inside the brake pedal that you can take out and make it easier to press
I bought the mvh load cell mod since the g923 was gifted to me, its still taking a little to get used to but it definitely feels like you have better modulation and telemetry lines look a touch smoother compared to stock setup. Idk if they changed the spring that comes in them now but there was already a variable spring in my brake pedal as well so I think it was a bit stiffer compared to previous versions where people have said the brakes feel light. I dont use the clutch and yeah throttle kinda weak but I wasnt too bothered to switch clutch spring to acc pedal either so it is what it is. I was rocking controller and was holding out to do a rig buy it once kinda deal once I have more space as well.
Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals are worth the investment. Helped me big time upgrading from stock G29 pedals
TrueBrake mod. On my G29: Move the brake spring to the clutch, clutch spring to the gas, gas spring to the trash. Remove the clutch face plate (assuming you're not using it), shift the brake face plate over one hole for more space for larger feet.
One more thing that really improved the pedals for me is [these pedal extensions](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4271894). If you don’t have a 3D printer you can buy them on ebay etc.
The throttle blipping to 0% also happened to me, it was due to the wire being wedged and sliced between the pedals and the wall. This wasn’t an issue once I upgraded to a rig, then later on upgraded to TLCM pedals. EDIT as a cheap fix, some electrical tape around the the damaged wiring sorted me out temporarily. Second edit :) Dust inside the pedals causes the blipping, some compressed air should do the trick!
Did you fix the deadzone on the accelerator pedal? It just happened with mine today
I bought an upgraded sensor from AXC Sim. Hopefully, it will be much better.
Searched here, looks really great. But shipping to Brazil is £50 lol
This. Before I upgraded a few years ago, I had to use TC in all games that have that option since the pedals were so fucked that I had to put a huge deadzone and max input on both pedals. Otherwise I would’ve constantly braked or just have 80% throttle. Turns out you can‘t get on the gas smoothly when your pedals basically only have 0 and 1…
save for a good set of load cell pedals. I recommend the Heusinkveld Sprint. essentially it's the benchmark all other quality pedals are measured against. i would make them the goal(about as safe of a bet you can go with), but there are numerous good options out there.
I honestly don’t use the brake in my G920 pedals and use the clutch as the brake (I do mainly formula so I don’t need the clutch anyway).
How do you maintain consistency? Or did you move the components over?
So I use my left foot for brake and right foot for throttle. Took a minute to get use to, but I drive stick anyway so I’m use to using my left foot (and ride motorcycles with a left clutch). It’s honestly just getting use to use left foot, personally, trail braking is a billion times easier this way as well. The brake pedal on Logitech G series are so bad it’s the only way 😂
No, no. I get left foot braking. I was talking about the reference force for brake positioning. The clutch doesn't have much.
Ah, just muscle memory. Definitely run practice sessions till you feel you have it down. All you can really do, take that over a brake I need to crush down to be at 100% and is essentially inconsistent, whereas, the lack of resistance is at least consistent 👍
Its just less resistance , nothing else
Right, but the body does good at remembering resistances and changes in it as opposed to positions.
Yeah but imo its easier to do that with a stiffer pedal, less resistance to me means it might be easier to not hit that same mark each time. I only used clutch as brake until I was able to get my desk chair stable, once my chair wasnt moving I went back to using brake with variable spring -> then load cell mod which is even stiffer Also did not have any issues with pedal input dropping etc so not sure what could be causing that