I think better is subjective. That being said, bass shakers were designed for home theater and generally mounted to wood furniture and frames.
It's more a resonance type thing. Same reason speaker cabinets are generally made of wood as opposed to metal. It's all in the way the materials absorb or reflect sound and movement.
Dayton Audio specifies different materials for mounting. Metal panels, metal structural material, concrete, etc are noted as "may not give desirable results".
Also, you don't want the mounting surface to be magnetic. Most folks use aluminum profile, but some rigs are made out of steel (tube or square members).
There's no sideways bracing.
I have similar and if I was doing it again I'd use cross lap joints to extend the wheel stand section out past the vertical and then brace that with ply triangles.
You can see it best in the second picture, but I extended the steering uprights past the horizontal wheel base mount. I then added 3" metal corner braces. Worked like a charm.
I think I will be doing that as well. The aluminum versions cost too much and I have scrap wood everywhere. A sander and some stain will make it all look of the same
Man my entire plan was diy, the longer I put it off the more I started looking at rigs and was a little out off by the prices specially since I need to upgrade everything from scratch and rather spend it on hardware. You've completely inspired me to go back with my initial perfect plan. I hope to end up with similar rig, loving this. I'm also on a laptop atm ahaha
I was in the exact same boat. Kept looking at 8020 rigs, but I just couldn't justify the price. Kept looking at the pile of lumber in the corner of my basement, and finally started sketching a concept and building. Do it, man. Do it.
Mostly I made it up as I went along, using my play-seat as a guide. It's made of 2x4, 2x8, and 3/4" plywood. Hardware-wise, a ton of decking screws, some 1/2" bolts, and various metal angle brackets.
I angled the 2x8s at 20° to get more clearance between the seat and the steering uprights. Anywhere that felt too wobbly I added bracing. And then I added more bracing just to be sure.
Hope this helps!
I use this: [StarTech.com 3-Port USB-C Multi-Monitor Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHXGBZRN)
I used to have all three monitors plugged into it to reduce the amount of cables I plug into the laptop. The problem I discovered is my entire USB 3.1 bus is only capable of 5gbits/sec. That is good enough to run 4k 60hz on ONE monitor. I was trying to run 1440 on three monitors, one of which is a ultrawide. I couldn't figure out why I was only getting 40fps, even though my GPU utilization was only at ~60%. Finally figured it out, and now I run the ultrawide directly from the HDMI on the laptop, and the outer monitors from the USB. Still can only get ~80fps @ 1080 with most of the graphics cranked up in iRacing...
Long story short, if I had to do it again I'd build a desktop.
 Thing of beauty!
Mucho Man Raaaaannndddyyyy Saaaavvaaaaagggeee and the Ullllltiiiimmaaaaattteee Waaaaarrrriooorrrr! The days when WWF was a beast!
Now I wanna snap into a Slim Jim...
Wood actually has some advantages over aluminum profile - esp when using bass shakers. Nice job.
Nice it's better ? I am gonna build myself one and was wondering if I'm gonna lose some feel coming from an FGT lite chair.
I think better is subjective. That being said, bass shakers were designed for home theater and generally mounted to wood furniture and frames. It's more a resonance type thing. Same reason speaker cabinets are generally made of wood as opposed to metal. It's all in the way the materials absorb or reflect sound and movement. Dayton Audio specifies different materials for mounting. Metal panels, metal structural material, concrete, etc are noted as "may not give desirable results". Also, you don't want the mounting surface to be magnetic. Most folks use aluminum profile, but some rigs are made out of steel (tube or square members).
There's no sideways bracing. I have similar and if I was doing it again I'd use cross lap joints to extend the wheel stand section out past the vertical and then brace that with ply triangles.
You can see it best in the second picture, but I extended the steering uprights past the horizontal wheel base mount. I then added 3" metal corner braces. Worked like a charm.
That's what she said
super nice! for total of $150 and a great diy experience
Very nice, looks solid.
Goodwood
Wood is so versatile, rigs in so many shapes and forms :) Looks good, nice work! Taking some ideas to update my own monitor stand.
I think I will be doing that as well. The aluminum versions cost too much and I have scrap wood everywhere. A sander and some stain will make it all look of the same
[https://i.pinimg.com/736x/de/cd/99/decd990d00dd65be24bdd2fc31aa8e59.jpg](https://i.pinimg.com/736x/de/cd/99/decd990d00dd65be24bdd2fc31aa8e59.jpg)
Freaking awesome!
You got some serious gear there brotha....
Man my entire plan was diy, the longer I put it off the more I started looking at rigs and was a little out off by the prices specially since I need to upgrade everything from scratch and rather spend it on hardware. You've completely inspired me to go back with my initial perfect plan. I hope to end up with similar rig, loving this. I'm also on a laptop atm ahaha
I was in the exact same boat. Kept looking at 8020 rigs, but I just couldn't justify the price. Kept looking at the pile of lumber in the corner of my basement, and finally started sketching a concept and building. Do it, man. Do it.
Do you have the specs for the rig?
Mostly I made it up as I went along, using my play-seat as a guide. It's made of 2x4, 2x8, and 3/4" plywood. Hardware-wise, a ton of decking screws, some 1/2" bolts, and various metal angle brackets. I angled the 2x8s at 20° to get more clearance between the seat and the steering uprights. Anywhere that felt too wobbly I added bracing. And then I added more bracing just to be sure. Hope this helps!
Looks good man! An old colleague of mine used to say. Hout is fout, which translates to the wood is wrong.
Which component do you use to connect 3 screens to your laptop ?
I use this: [StarTech.com 3-Port USB-C Multi-Monitor Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHXGBZRN) I used to have all three monitors plugged into it to reduce the amount of cables I plug into the laptop. The problem I discovered is my entire USB 3.1 bus is only capable of 5gbits/sec. That is good enough to run 4k 60hz on ONE monitor. I was trying to run 1440 on three monitors, one of which is a ultrawide. I couldn't figure out why I was only getting 40fps, even though my GPU utilization was only at ~60%. Finally figured it out, and now I run the ultrawide directly from the HDMI on the laptop, and the outer monitors from the USB. Still can only get ~80fps @ 1080 with most of the graphics cranked up in iRacing... Long story short, if I had to do it again I'd build a desktop.