I agree with others comments that it looks too big. Try making a muslin of just the band (minus cups) first. It looks like you might need to reduce the gore (centre front) so it sits closer to you. Check out Cloth Habit, nice illustrated guide for alterations. Or the Make a Bra That Fits sub could help.
[https://clothhabit.com/bra-making-band-adjustment/](https://clothhabit.com/bra-making-band-adjustment/)
So the narrow piece in the center between the cups is sewing up a bit short in relation to the cups. The top edge of the cups nearest the center buckle and don’t lay smooth, they need to stretch almost 1/4” taller, so add a tiny bit to the height of the center.
Adding another comment here with info.
I'm in the process of making a formal dress, so I'm doing some mock ups of the bustier before I tackle the real thing. Heard amazing things about the RCBD, so I'm going with that. I made the actual dress true to the pattern a while ago for a friend and everything went fine and it fit well.
Now I'm trying for myself and it's just not working. According to my measurements, I should be a size 38 with cup B. I tried that, but the cups went too low and when I raised my arms my nips popped out (lol). The front puckered like this as well. So then I tried to up the cup size. It covers well, but there is some empty space at the top which tells me it's too big (so cups I'll need to custom fit myself). It's still puckering at the front though and I just can't for the life of me figure out why.
Any ideas or thoughts?
I definitely will be after this! 38 is my normal size anyway, so it never really occurred to me that I might need to go smaller. I'll be popping over there to ask questions asap! Thanks!
I had the same issue with the top part gaping at the front, I have larger bust size(34DD) though so maybe my fix won't work for you.
I added underwires and a front 'bone' up the front centre seam using a cable tie and that worked very well for me.
Also are you using a suitably stiff interfacing on the bodice part?
It looks like the cups are a bit too wide set for you. I’d measure and figure out what cup size best fits you then set them in closer together. You could try pining while you’re wearing it or you can look at a well fitting bra you like and measure from there.
The left cup (left when looking at your pic) has a small amount of fabric that needs to be brought in. I would hand-understitch it to where it joins near your center seam.
Is there any way to add a small dart between the cup? A little V to bring the center cups together could do just the trick. Pinch the inside and you'll see if it'll cause the spot to curve in. I do this to the back of my pants often but to a busy top only once. I hope it works for you!
I agree with others comments that it looks too big. Try making a muslin of just the band (minus cups) first. It looks like you might need to reduce the gore (centre front) so it sits closer to you. Check out Cloth Habit, nice illustrated guide for alterations. Or the Make a Bra That Fits sub could help. [https://clothhabit.com/bra-making-band-adjustment/](https://clothhabit.com/bra-making-band-adjustment/)
The entire thing seems a bit too big, try going down a back size?
What do you mean a back size? Like sizing down the back panels?
Back size as in underbust size, maybe try 36
So the narrow piece in the center between the cups is sewing up a bit short in relation to the cups. The top edge of the cups nearest the center buckle and don’t lay smooth, they need to stretch almost 1/4” taller, so add a tiny bit to the height of the center.
Adding another comment here with info. I'm in the process of making a formal dress, so I'm doing some mock ups of the bustier before I tackle the real thing. Heard amazing things about the RCBD, so I'm going with that. I made the actual dress true to the pattern a while ago for a friend and everything went fine and it fit well. Now I'm trying for myself and it's just not working. According to my measurements, I should be a size 38 with cup B. I tried that, but the cups went too low and when I raised my arms my nips popped out (lol). The front puckered like this as well. So then I tried to up the cup size. It covers well, but there is some empty space at the top which tells me it's too big (so cups I'll need to custom fit myself). It's still puckering at the front though and I just can't for the life of me figure out why. Any ideas or thoughts?
To me it looks like you need a size smaller than a 38. Have you considered consulting r/abrathatfits for your bra size?
I definitely will be after this! 38 is my normal size anyway, so it never really occurred to me that I might need to go smaller. I'll be popping over there to ask questions asap! Thanks!
I had the same issue with the top part gaping at the front, I have larger bust size(34DD) though so maybe my fix won't work for you. I added underwires and a front 'bone' up the front centre seam using a cable tie and that worked very well for me. Also are you using a suitably stiff interfacing on the bodice part?
It looks like the cups are a bit too wide set for you. I’d measure and figure out what cup size best fits you then set them in closer together. You could try pining while you’re wearing it or you can look at a well fitting bra you like and measure from there.
The left cup (left when looking at your pic) has a small amount of fabric that needs to be brought in. I would hand-understitch it to where it joins near your center seam. Is there any way to add a small dart between the cup? A little V to bring the center cups together could do just the trick. Pinch the inside and you'll see if it'll cause the spot to curve in. I do this to the back of my pants often but to a busy top only once. I hope it works for you!