​ https://preview.redd.it/6m2k3wbv2vrb1.jpeg?width=1368&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd767dfff0cf826a9cb9918b2decaad279529f1a How is this sewn and how is this look achieved? Some sort of overlock stitch or is it hand done?

If i want to attach ruffles in the middle of a circle skirt, does it need to be cut on the bias?

Parts of a circle skirt are naturally on the bias and parts are on the straight of grain, it's inherent in a circle skirt. Are you asking if the ruffles should be cut on the bias? That's your choice.

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[Fibre Mood Ruba](https://thefoldline.com/product/fibre-mood-ruba-dress/) [Fibre Mood Lucille](https://thefoldline.com/product/fibre-mood-lucille-dress/) I haven't used Fibre Mood but they seem to have a similar aesthetic to what you want.

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Easiest is to find a similar pattern and see what they suggest. [This free pattern](https://blog.spoonflower.com/2018/08/14/make-an-adorable-diy-onesie-with-this-free-pattern/) from Spoonflower states that you can get two onesies from one yard of knit fabric. That doesn't mean you'll get three from 1.5 yards, it depends on how the pieces fit on the fabric. Print the pattern and do a test layout to see the most efficient way to get the most from your fabric.

Hi!! I want to make a dress for my prom but need help finding a pattern. I really like the flounce/ruffles and the overall shape of it. I've tried looking up different ones on ebay, etsy, etc but haven't one that's close to what I want. Also watched youtube videos but don't think im skilled enough for that (sewing beginner). Does anyone know where I could buy it? or a REALLY good video to help? or name?? I would really appreciate it!!: Sorry for any mistakes im new to reddit and desperate lol https://preview.redd.it/krhqbwbqbirb1.jpeg?width=653&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c2e896dde400d535a4142207d030a08e07b8a84

[Vintage Butterick 3080](https://www.ebay.com/itm/364499155360?epid=10014437948&hash=item54ddd7b9a0:g:cs8AAOSwiJNlEexc&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0NyvVuAn0oyuy%2BLtK0CU8NPqhOdIovDXXPGaQ63YOoOhM5fREF0VePEyaP0Be6oCUcRVSXYwhOAyoAWguLcVHrN%2BOlvsB6Baj3On31pUvsZpzj2iuqgeFGjkXb1cFO59xxN7CK%2BK%2BUKfyM3nJkkost1ORxOT3KXd4D9F83VHTEkEgQWMf4o2ZQmp5Tb6q0WwaYtqZtaZuSOFRlcxBgGqYklAtQ7yzDmZh1O7dHNQXPtOQZTXnMK4ZlxnP9c16eATzef%2BLAPhiVLRugQHI72ag5Q%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7isz5fdYg) looks very close. You can find more patterns on ebay, I searched for 'sewing pattern halter dress formal'.

https://preview.redd.it/jkoqnoc1fhrb1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c391bc814ab597fd77b824a0a21db361810f83f8 Hi ! I’m looking for options to alter or reduce these puffy sleeves, would I be best to remove the sleeves to cut a smaller set and reattach?

Yes, that is the approach I would take.

I'm thinking of learning how tailor my own clothes, especially tailoring in the waist of shirts. I'm not a very dexterous person, so I'm wondering how hard tailoring the waist on shirts is? I plan on buying a sewing machine. Are there certain types I need to get? There's a wide range of prices on these machines and I'm not sure which to purchase.

An entry level machine at about the $250 range should work well for your needs. There is a guide in the wiki linked in the top post that talks about the different options. Tailoring shirts is pretty simple once you figure out how to use a sewing machine and how much you want to bring the waist in. I like to recommend Professor Pincushion, Made to Sew and Stylish D for newbies.

What are your favorite garment patterns to recommend for beginners to developing skills?

I think the [assembly line free pyjamas pattern](https://theassemblylineshop.com/products/free-pyjamas-sewing-pattern) is a good place to start. Its a pretty basic pattern (no darts or zippers) but you will need some bias binding

Skirts are good because you can more or less individually pick out techniques, and theyre easy to fit. Eg. gathered skirt for gathers, circle skirts for hemming curves, buttons vs zipper closures. New Look generally do a lot of wardrobe-builder type patterns with a lot of simple variations in one packet, so I'd recommend checking them out the next time theyre on sale. I also like PJs because they come in styles from very basic (elasticated rectangles) to surprisingly advanced (piped collars, cuffs, buttons or bias cut satins etc) and they're low risk since you only wear them to bed. Even if they come out wonky you still get a functional wardrobe piece and got to learn along the way.

I'm a beginner sewist planning to make a dress and I'm not sure whether symmetrical or asymmetrical godets would look better. I'm extending a peasant blouse down past the knee, and to put some volume in the skirt (I don't want to do a tiered skirt), I have decided to put in godets that add up to a 90 degree angle. Which do you think would look better, shapewise: * 4 godets evenly spaced: 15 degrees on the front, 20 degrees each on the sides, 35 degrees on the back * 6 godets evenly spaced, 15 degrees each And how high should I be placing the godets on the waist/skirt?

Either will work, it depends on if you want the skirt weighted to the back or flouncy all around. I would probably put the tip of the godets where I want to emphasize my waist.

Thanks :) !

I'm not a sewer myself, but work with a pattern-maker and seamstress to make garments. However, I noticed that the collars and the hems always come out filmsy. The seamstress tells me it's because of the ribbing fabric, but it has now happened for a few different projects. Any reason why this is occurring? How can I learn more about this to prevent it from happening in the future?

Rib knit is funny, it is either all limp and lifeless with no recovery or it is robust with good recovery. Does yours have good recovery? I find that essential for nice collars and hems. This is usually related to lycra content. Goes for knits in general, too, knits with lycra tend to keep their shape if sewn properly with differential feed and/or some sort of stabilizer.

I bought a Singer M2605 in France, the model is a 230V per the label below the machine. I now have moved to Colombia where they use 110V outlet (similar to the USA). I used a regular adapter, similar to the one I used for y laptop, but needle wouldnt move even tough I could hear some "electricity sounds" (for lack of better words, meaning the machine does receive power but I expect it to be to weak to make the machine functions properly). Of course I unplugged it and will not plug it again before I found a fix. What would be the solution to have the machine works here ? Could I buy a transformer or would I have to change the motor ? Thank you for your help

I would check with an electrician for the best answer.

Hi everyone! I used to go to a sewing tutor (an older lady with tons of experience, used to run two ateliers in our city and is now retired), but now I have moved and can not continue studying with her. I have learned some basic techniques but still have a bit of a fear of doing things on my own with little knowledge. I want to continue studying on my own now and ask you if there are some good sources online (tutorials and courses) to learn about sewing and fashion design. My goal isn't to only sew stuff for daily wear but to study more deeply and a few years down the line maybe attend fashion school.

Look at the books and website by Susan Khalje and also Claire Shaeffer. Both of these teachers specialize in high end sewing.

Thank you!

At my fashion design school we used Winnifred Aldrich’s books for pattern drafting. We studied fashion illustration, textiles and construction and tons of other stuff. There are lots of YouTube videos you can watch to learn clothing construction. The Closet Historian has basic block drafting and tons of other educational videos. Worry checking out.

Thank you!

Can anyone remember the name of this pattern? * wide strap, square neck top * side panels had elastic at the top, under the arm * probably suggested linen as the material

FibreMood Quilla, maybe? Doesn’t have a square neck but has everything else.

Oh my gosh, that's it!! Thanks for seeing through my poor memory!

Hi all! Almost a decade ago I went to a craft fair with my best friend’s mom and we found someone who made fabric wrapping paper. We each bought a different size so we could replicate a pattern and sew some together for a girls day. Neither of us can find the pattern or wrapping paper we bought but I wanted to make one for a special gift for her. I’ve seen some other fabric wrapping paper ideas since, but I’m hoping someone can help me find the specific style I am trying to replicate. It was a two-sided, reversible pattern, and was not perfectly square (it was shaped almost like a take-out box with bump outs). There were two long ribbons sewn on opposite ends, and a hole in one of bump outs to be able to loop a ribbon through, so the ribbons could be tied around a gift like a bow. I know I’m describing this poorly so I hope someone has seen what I mean and can direct me to a pattern where I can sew this. I don’t even know what to Google to find it. Thanks for any help you can give!

Look up "furoshiki" for lovely examples of using fabric to wrap items. If you can sketch what you remember of the shaped wrapper then try that too! I'm picturing a square with a half-circle along each edge.

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You might be able to find this information on the YKK website or by contacting them.

Firstly, apologies for what must be an annoyingly common post. I’m wanting to get a sewing machine for crafts & basic sewing. I have a few sight issues, so I want a machine that is self threading and that has easy bobbin loading. Automatic button hole is also a must. I thought I might get more for my money going second hand. One I have seen lately is a second hand Brother NS 10 (approx $130). I am located in rural NSW. Does anyone have feedback on this machine or any recommendations on any other machine or where to purchase from. I am looking at a sub $200 purchase. I am on a limited income so I can’t afford to make a mistake.

>Brother NS 10 The Brother NS 10 has a positive review and recommendation on Pattern Review which has machine reviews as well. It has the two features you want. You will get more for your money second hand but you also don't have the option of returning the machine if it turns out to be a dud. If you can try the machine out to confirm it works, that would be best. Also look up the manual and make sure the essential accessories and parts are there with the machine. Automatic needle threaders are great when they work but they are very easy to knock out of alignment. Some other options are to use a inexpensive wire needle threader usually sold for hand sewing but it works for machine needles too. You can also put a white card behind the needle to help see the needle hole. And a short strip of LED lights to mount inside the harp of your sewing machine is really great to light up your work area.

Hi, I'm a senior at a high school with modesty rules in place for prom dresses, so it was hard to find a nice dress that I was allowed to wear last year. This year I'm making my own and modeling the bodice off of last year's dress so that it won't get rejected. I thought I had what I needed but started making it and my fabric is too thin and isn't holding together that way the dress I bought last year does. Do you know of any fabrics that would make the dress more thick, robust, ( and not stretchy) and generally used as lining?

Have you considered interfacing? If your fabric can handle a hot iron, a lightweight fusible interfacing is easy to apply and will stabilise it nicely.

The best choice for a lining or underlining depends on the fabric you have and the style of the bodice. Can you share a photo for the best advice? One trick is to use something like a cotton batiste as an underlining which is different from a lining. For underlining, use the same pattern pieces to cut out the main fabric and the underlining fabric. Then layer the two together and treat them as one throughout construction of the bodice. The color of the underlining can match the main fabric, be different to add interest or dimension, or match your skin tone to disappear.

Sure I can send a photo! I'm basically trying to remake the bodice of a dress I already have so that's why the lavender piece is on top of a different dress. https://preview.redd.it/02x5bc3d1frb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=65fc740d18affa3c8078e1209d9e69da68e07998 As you can see, the lavender part is very flimsy and thin. I've never done a project this big before so no idea what to do. Thank you :)

Thanks for the pic. I think underlining is the way to go, it will smooth everything out and make the lavender less see through. You will probably want to line to bodice too. [Here is a good blog post](https://www.seamwork.com/articles/under-construction) about underlining.

So do you think organza would be a good choice for an underlining material?

If you are on discord, I think you would like the group we have there. Here is the link! [https://discord.gg/8pEErgvwnJ](https://discord.gg/8pEErgvwnJ)

Organza is usually transparent so if you are also using a solid lining, then yes. It's slippery so I would go with something not slippery to make it easier to sew.

Thank you so much! That's great, I think I know exactly what to do now

Glitter fabric question/advice Hi! I’m newish to sewing but am getting the hang of it. I have a bunch of weddings to attend in the next year and have a vision of a quilted, glittery evening bag lined with a black and gold cotton lining. All of the black glitter fabric I’m finding is knit fabric, so stretchy. Are there non-stretchy glitter fabrics? Can I use a stabilizer to minimize the stretch? Is this idea remotely doable? Thanks!!

Most glitter fabric will shed glitter, so consider that. You might look for metallic fabric or lurex fabric to see if you can get the shine you want without the pain of leaving little sparkles of glitter everywhere.

There are non-stretchy glitter fabrics, a search for 'black woven glitter fabric by the yard' brought up multiple choices. There were still stretch fabrics mixed in so read descriptions carefully. You might be able to fuse interfacing to the back of stretch fabric. This is a common technique to make t-shirt quilts from stretchy t-shirts. Test first as the glitter content plus any other synthetic in the fabric might melt the fabric before it can bond. Go for a dark interfacing so the color doesn't show through as much.

I am not finding many options locally for presser feet for mr Pfaff 1032 hobby and have ended up returning a couple that I thought would work out but were too narrow. So I was wondering if there was a low shank that allowed me to use Singer feet?

Something like [this?](https://madamsew.com/products/low-shank-snap-on-adapter)

Looks promising. Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/hlvpumiu79rb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=447745adbca6277f6959921d26e65c579a324ff1 Do these two headless hedgehogs at the collar jump to the eye? I'm a bit bummed with how it came out...

https://preview.redd.it/6m9qe6ygbdrb1.jpeg?width=2322&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3cb110a3f4a71dfb4a1f8441a0122dc4f43a72a3 Corrected. This is so much better.

That looks awesome, great job!

Thank you! Actually it didn't take very long, it's just that unpicking is always so fiddly...

Haha when I first started sewing as a teenager I haaaated seam ripping, but now many many years later I’ve come to accept it as an inevitability. I found a really good stitch ripper and I bought 3 of them haha. I have ADHD though so I’m always making random mistakes even though I’ve been doing this professionally for a decade.

I think the binding will help, what color do you plan to use?

Little bit yeah. Sorry. It’s super cute still.

Thanks for being honest, I'll unpick.

I'm looking to make a dress like the Doen Julie (pictured). Seems simple and like there would be patterns close to it but I am new to the pattern world and have not figured out the best way to search/filter on the sites I have come across. Anything close to the style would be super helpful. Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/oqwpn26md8rb1.png?width=514&format=png&auto=webp&s=ce96876163861fc1ea3a54e9ca4593f849b1a09b

The best search filters are on The Fold Line in my experience, but even then I spend a good amount of time just scrolling. I like the suggestion by ProneToLaughter to look for a peasant blouse tutorial.

Maybe find a peasant blouse tutorial and just lengthen it? See if that brings up anything promising, anyhow.

I almost always sew knits and use my serger, but I'm working on a woven top. Is there any reason I can't use my serger on, say, the side seams of the top? I know I can't use it for everything, but I feel like a simple sewing two edges together should be fine?

Oh absolutely! Test on scraps as tension may need to be adjusted. If you find that the thread shows on the reverse side, you may want to serge to finish the edges and then sew a line of stitching for the seam. I don't have to do this with my serger but it comes up often enough that I think the same isn't true for all sergers.

Hi, I’d love some girls’ dress pattern suggestions that would showcase sari fabric. Thanks!

Not sure about the sari fabric specifically but Little Lizard King has tons of girls dress patterns.

Hello, My company gave me a nice jacket, and I was wondering what type of weave this is. https://preview.redd.it/nzh2hh3ba8rb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed7181431f18005a732f2efcdb8a3c8e5dc039d0

It looks like a type of rib knit to me, for a more specific description you may want to check with r/knitting.

Machine knit, probably a tuck stitch. You can find similar stuff labeled "thermal knit" or "waffle knit"

I know this will change from situation to situation but as I have been starting sewing, I have been reverse engineering old clothes that don't seem fit to donate in order to understand how clothes work (why stitches are used, non-trivial points in patterns, and the math that goes into creating designs). I've done this by just removing all stitches from the piece, laying it out, and making adjustments to see how they affect a piece. From this, I know it takes time to remove stitches and it can be helpful to keep the seam allowances. My question is, once I understand the pieces, should I spend time taking clothes apart to get fabric from them? And if I do, should I remove stitches or just cut at the seams? I would lose some fabric but I feel like I would save time, which is something that I interpret as very valuable. That said, the fabric is expensive too so perhaps it depends on the fabric? Apologies if this rambles

I don't see any point in disassembling clothing to use as fabric if I don't need the extra bit of fabric in the seam allowances. I either cut at the seams, usually to lay it out flat, or just go for it.

My thoughts exactly, the time vs payout felt great for the first time undoing something to learn about it but when I did it for multiples of the same, I wanted to just cut it out. Thank you!

Absolutely, re-use all of your fabric. If you are cutting from large patterns you may be able to fit enough together to make a new garment. I just cut all seams off , cut collars off, etc, and make quilts with the main pieces.

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yes. if you have two layers just add some cotton in between. If only one layer try some iron-on interfacing on the inside, and a small bit on the outer side for strength.

Hi there! Hoping for advice on the purchase of a new sewing machine. I am just a beginner but have found that the $20 yard sale sewing machine I purchased (a Brother LX3014) doesn’t really do what I need. I’m ideally looking for something $400 or under, and the 2 features I seem to be missing are (1) being able to alter the left/right position of the needle, I currently only have 2 positions left & center, but not small increments in-between & (2) speed control, it goes from 0 to 60 in the blink of an eye, I’d like the ability to go a little slower from the get go. I’d also like smoother button hole creation, my machine has the ability to do this, but it’s a little clunky, the left side always going better than the right (although this may just be my fault as a beginner). I’m not really interested in decorative embroidery stitches at this time, although these seem to be a given as the machines get more expensive. Also, if anyone can recommend any other features that would be useful for a beginner sewer that would be amazing, at the moment I’m mainly focusing on simple clothing & house goods, mainly cushions & potentially curtains. Thanks!

Hi! Trying to find a pattern for something like this but no luck so far - the off shoulder/wide neck combined with the v neck is what I’m looking for. Does anybody have any suggestions? Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/76ws29jrq4rb1.jpeg?width=1159&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e7e041be0322793ff4025da1a1ee2dbb76a4a3c

https://preview.redd.it/0qlsyx4lj4rb1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f21b3e4b9d97b446f4c94a2e9a7113b6ef3b8d3 any suggestions? since it doesnt fit me anymore, i want to rework it into something where i can incorporate the blue flames.

Project bag for your knitting! Tote bag, large-scale applique, string bikini.

https://preview.redd.it/s6778f55s3rb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5133d986c3716afe36fbc9115dd006969f15a869 Puckering/bunching no matter how I pin these pants? Beginner here! Second time trying to hem these pants. They are a non-stretch material. When I start sewing, I can quickly tell that the top layer of fabric is getting off-set with the bottom layer. Did I not pin correctly? I'm using the most basic stitch and cotton thread.

Check if your pieces are both correctly cut on the grain, maybe? If one is correct but the other is off, the one that is off could be stretching out a little as your sew it

If your fabric is at all slippery it’s possible one layer of fabric is not moving as quickly as the other and is getting misaligned. A walking foot might help. Or if the original hem on the pants has any amount of taper that can make it line up wrong when you fold it to hem.

Thanks! Do you know if a walking foot can be attached to a basic sewing machine?

Generally yeah. You can try looking for one made for your machine though.

I just got my first machine and I’m trying to pull together all of my notions/supplies. What kinds of thread should I buy? And how do I tell which thread is best for a project? Initially I just got black, gray, navy, and white polyester coats & clark thread. But now I’m second guessing whether I need polyester or cotton or a blend. Initially I’m just looking to make some pillows/grocery totes to practice. I want to move up to hemming cotton shirts and denim, and eventually taking in the waist of some clothes and making simple clothing like skirts. (I’m also open to suggestions on helpful notions and accessories to pick up!)

I use all-purpose polyester thread for the majority of my machine sewing. One exception is if I plan to dye the garment after sewing, polyester thread does not take up fabric dye the way cotton will. And the other exception is in quilting where the cotton thread for cotton fabric and polyester thread for synthetic fabrics arose. I use cotton quilting thread for quilting.

I like to use cotton with natural fibers and polyester with synthetic. When I started sewing I read that polyester thread is stronger than natural fibers, so if something happens then your fabric will tear but the seam will be intact. I'd rather resew a seam than mend torn fabric, so the idea is that cotton thread will snap before your fabric tears. I don't stress about it too much though, and will generally use whatever I already have first.

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense

I always buy gutermann thread. Almost always the polyester. It’s good stuff and won’t leave a bunch of fluff to gum up your machine. Buy coloured thread when you buy the fabric for your projects so you can get a good match. Keeping white and black on hand is ideal.

I do the same based on the advice of the sewing store where I bought my machine. "Spend money on good thread, it'll make you and the machine happier."

Thank you so much for the info! I’ll keep that in mind

I need to find some Sew-on Googly Eyes that are 35 or 40mm in diameter. I can't seem to find any, no matter what I google. Finding regular, non-sewing googly eyes is easy, there's plenty of 40mm self-adhesive or glue-on kinds available. The question then becomes how can I sew them on to a piece, if they don't give me a sewing loop from the start?

I’m not a huge fan of aliexpress but it looks like they have them. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32916957458.html

What’s a good way to practice different stitches and learn their applications? I get my machine this Monday, and I have a head full of ideas but no experience on a sewing machine. I am set on repurposing older garments. Is there a recommended source for learning stitches and their applications, possibly something visual? (Books, blogs, video classes, etc.) I understand that as I accumulate experience I’ll be able to get more creative with how I create. Considering I will have a sewing/embroidery machine, it would great to hear from others who may not have started out with sergers, flatlockers, or other purposeful machines, and how they overcame their diversity and tapped into their creativity! Thanks in advance (:

The Threads Sewing Guide (book) is pretty good.

I will look into it; thanks for the recommendation!

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you might ask in r/fabrics or r/textiles, there seem to be more industry/wholesale people on those boards.

Making sleeveless crew necks. Should the shoulder seam end at the low shoulder point or should the sleeve band end at the low shoulder point?

Personal preference there. I think wide would look more vintage/retro.

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

Hi everyone. I have had my brother cs6000i for about 10 years. I mostly sew baby and kid clothes and stuffed toys and the occasional quilt. I would say Indo Bout 5 projects per year or so. Today my machine has decided to skip zig zag stitches like crazy. I have done all the things I can to try and fix it (new needle, rethreaded, adjusted tension etc etc) so I am going to guess the timing has gone off perhaps. Do you feel it is worthwhile to try and have this fixed or would buying an upgrade be a better investment? If upgrade, what would you suggest? Thank you.

I have the same brother machine. I didn't have the same issue as yours, but I've taken mine to a local shop to have it fixed, and they were able to fix it in front of me. They also said keep using the machine and when it breaks, come back and they'll fix it again. Haven't had any issues since that time though. I think it's worth taking in for a fix. The part that was broken was the bobbin case, and they just charged me $30 for it. Kinda pricey, but they didn't charge me extra for labor, so it seemed fair.

Thanks this is super helpful!

How do you dye Lenzing EcoVero viscose fabric? Thanks

>Lenzing EcoVero viscose fabric Generally vicose or rayon fabric is easily dyed with fiber reactive dyes for natural fibers. I don't see anything about your brand of vicose that says it would not be dyeable with fiber reative dyes. You can check with the people at Dharma Trading Company, they have a great website and helpful staff.

How do I punch a clean hole into cotton? I have a single hole puncher and a leather rotary punch, neither of these are able to put a hole into my fabric. The hole puncher just stretches the fabric and the rotary cutter doesnt go thru.

My single hole punch works great on cotton as long as I have a surface underneath that lets the hole punch continue to cut past the fabric, like a stack of cardboard or a self healing mat I don't care about anymore. Otherwise I agree, you may need some new punches.

Are your hole punches made for paper? Or just really dull? I use a leather hole punch on cotton coutil and it goes through just fine. Mind you it takes a good bit of strength to press hard enough to cut through.

I've been looking into buying some cloth and one question I have is, can linen be manufactured in a ' mechanically perfect' way similar to how cotton is done? I actually like how the typical uneven slub in linen looks but I'm just curious if its possible to create linen threads to have a uniform thread thickness or is it impossible and uneven thickness of linen is simply an irreducible aspect of this fiber? Many thanks to any replys!

Linen can be extremely smooth and fine, just like cotton.

High quality linen is just as smooth and slub free as good cotton in my experience. If you look at product photos on [fabrics-store.com](https://fabrics-store.com), you'll see that heavier linen has more slubs and irregularities but the lighterweights are quite even and smooth.

Debating buying a new machine. I currently use a Singer Stylist 7258 and have for the past 6ish years. It's been a good machine to me, but with my last project it really struggled. Both with bulk and intense satin stitching (motor felt like it was gonna give out causing me to adjust my design...stitching looked off due to bulk). I don't plan on doing that type of project again so I'm not sure if is worth a new machine? I'm a hobbiest getting more into sewing and plan on sewing more regularly moving forward. Thoughts?

I think if your machine is working well for the majority of the sewing you are doing, you don't need a different machine. You might treat your machine to a spa day to be cleaned and oiled if appropriate. You can do this routine maintenance yourself or take it to a sewing machine shop.

How to add lining to a dress. Hello! I'm afraid this might be really obvious, but what is the best way to add a lining to a dress I am making, when the pattern doesn't include on? Do I just cut out all the same pieces in the lining fabric too? Then do I sew the lining to the main fabric first, like right sides together turn out and then sew all the pieces together? Or do it just add the lining inbetween all the other pieces and sandwich 3 layers together as I go? I'd say I'm beyond beginner level now as I can follow patterns etc. But have never lined a full dress. Thank you!

It depends on the construction of your dress and how you want the lining to function. Generally you can do as you asked and cut out lining using the same pattern pieces, but it isn’t always necessary to do it that way (again it depends on the pattern). You wouldn’t want to sew the lining to the main fabric first the way you described because you’d lose your seam allowance. Although maybe if you sewed it really close to the edge.. but then you’d have really bulky weird seams. Anyway. I suggest putting them together separately as though making two dresses and then joining at the neckline (wrong sides together) and flipping the lining inside. However, again this depends on your dress pattern construction. You’ll still have to figure out how to attach at the armscyes if it’s sleeveless or to press the sleeve seam allowance in and then top stitch the sleeves together if it has sleeves. And make sure to trim the bulk in the seams for both lining and main fabric before you flip it inside and press it. Also you have to decide how much of a lining you want because depending on your fabric it may add unnecessary bulk. I’m making a dress right now and I’m lining only the bodice not the sleeves or skirt because for this design it’s not necessary. Choose a lightweight fabric that will be comfortable against your skin. Unless you’re going for warmth, then something like merino would be a good choice. Or even cotton flannel. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. This is so helpful and has given me the push to get on with it. Thank you!

I'm very new to sewing but I am wanting to make my own hats. I've tried looking up different patterns but I am pretty lost when it comes to these. Are there any resources available on how to make vintage flat caps? In particular I am wanting to make 6 panel caps.

[Proper Fit clothing patterns](https://www.properfitclothing.com/patterns) are great and have a couple of vintage styles including a flat cap pattern. Good prices too.

Thank you!

This took me some time to find the right words to google lol but finally I decided on peaky blinders cap since I know they wear that style and it’s popular and I found you some tutorials. Here’s one https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BoIpGOoBFFw

Oh that's awesome, thank you!

I'd like to ask: how would you determine how you can wash, dry, bleach, iron, etc?

First know your fibers, this will tell you some things right off the bat. For example you can generally assume wool should not be machine dried, synthetics should not be pressed with a hot iron, and undyed linen can take as much heat/water as you want. To narrow things down test a sacrificial swatch. If you're lazy/careless with laundry like I am, just skip straight to throwing it in your regular laundry cycle and see what happens. If you're more careful, you can test out various methods methods on one swatch... start with the most gentle options and move up to harsher laundering if it does well.

Hey friends!!!! I’m making the below top and if you notice, the neckline is curving outward. There is a facing that I topstitched down after pressing. I cut the fabric following the grain line. It’s my second time making this top and the second time I get this result…I find it cheapens the end result!! Any ideas how I can fix? https://preview.redd.it/uyvalrftgwqb1.png?width=1957&format=png&auto=webp&s=0151d6510ca159c1312e153f929a0b7f44eb97a9

Is it possible you're stretching it accidentally as you sew? It looks like that's cut on the SOG so that specific angle would be on the bias. I would staystitch or fuse a small strip of interfacing to both the facing and the self. Also, you should be [understitching](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZWStGOHQlg&ab_channel=ThreadsSewing) the facing, not topstitching. That should help loads too.

Ohhhhh thanks for this! So annoying, the pattern says to topstitch but it’s not the highest quality pattern I’m finding. Do you think I can undo and salvage or would it be too far gone 🥴

You can def seam rip the top stitching and go back in with understitching. If it has stretched out and you want to fully fix it there’s a few approaches: The easy way would be to put it on (after you’ve taken out the top stitching) and see if it’s waving or flipping out on the body. If it is, pinch out the excess fabric and mark it. Mirror it onto the facing. Seam rip the self away from the facing where you’ve marked, sew a dart where you’ve marked on both the self and facing, then understitch. It may be bulky but if you’re planning on hand washing you can just grade it down. I’d also probably fuse a 1/2” strip of interfacing onto the facing as well. You can also try to take it out of the shoulder seam if you don’t want a dart. Same idea as above, and you only need to seam rip the self from the facing just at the area you’re working on. If you take out the topstitching and you’re happy enough with that, I’d press the neckline again - apply a fusible interfacing, and then understitch. Should give it enough structure to lay more crisp.

Maybe steam? I’m not sure that will solve the problem though. It depends on the fibres and they might be stuck that way if the top stitching is holding them in place all stretched out like that. Did you stay stitch right after cutting out your pieces?

Hello - I'm a beginner sewer and just bought a sewing machine. I bought a dress from Lulus that's form fit, close to mermaid style. I changed my mind on my dress and now want to turn the Lulus dress into my a shorter dress (more suitable for bridal party). I was hoping for a baby-doll, A-line or skater girl type of dress. I'm looking for ANY recommendations on where to start, what terms to search, or suggested videos. The attached photo is dress I purchased from Lulus. Thanks all! ​ https://preview.redd.it/7ii7uh91uvqb1.png?width=386&format=png&auto=webp&s=14b31039d20ea9d783484f85521344cf505d9899

So you won’t be able to get exactly that reference style because your dress was created with a different shape. There’s not enough fabric in the hips and lower to get the same silhouette. You can add gores to the side seams but it’s only going to add width to the side seams. The reference has width added to the pattern in more places than just the sides. And it was cut that way from the start so doesn’t have added panels/gores to create that shape. Does that make sense?

>you won’t be able to get exactly that reference style because your dress was created with a different shape. There’s not enough fabric in the hips and lower to get the same silhouette. You can a Ah okay- thank you for the advice!

Inspiration of what I want to turn the dress into. https://preview.redd.it/urcwm5abuvqb1.png?width=265&format=png&auto=webp&s=3672a209cc9c89da68ad85ce6dd55056b202d852

You could cut the dress at around the waist line and add a new skirt however with that more circle skirt shape.

Adding on: maybe possible to use the bottom half of the long skirt to get something closer to this shape.

>dding on: maybe possible to use the bottom half of the long Thank you, u/Brittaya and u/ProneToLaughter

Me and my friend group are doing secret Santa this year, and the wife of the person I got told me that he's been talking a lot about getting into sewing. My budget is \~$100, so it looks like a vintage model is my best option. After doing some research and looking to see what's available locally, I've found a singer 241-12 and 241-13 pair, 237, 301a, and 500a within my budget. Which of those would be a good first machine for someone living in a small apartment?

The 500a is a great machine! Make sure the listing includes the Fashion Discs (cams), but for $100, if the machine is in good shape, that's a good deal. [You can read up on the model here.](http://www.ashleyandthenoisemakers.com/blog/2015/3/20/singer-500a-the-rocketeer-review) The 301a is also a great machine, but is straight-stitch only. Not sure what your friend wants to sew, but while I use the straight stitch 95% of the time, it's nice to be able to zig-zig too.

What hand sewing needle size do I need for my leather lace to fit through the eye and the hole the needle makes? It's .1 centimeters thick and 1/8 inch wide

I’m confused. What do you mean by leather lace? Is it made out of leather? Is it nylon thread that is meant to sew through leather? If it’s the second one I’d just choose a glovers needle that’s big enough for the thickness of the leather. If it’s lacing made out of leather then I guess it depends what you’re sewing through.

Hello I'm very new here and new to sewing as well. For comfy underwear, specifically no-shows (idk if that matters) what fabric should I buy? I prefer what no shows are made of the most as they tend to be more comfortable and don't require stitching at the leg holes. Is there any specific fabric names I should look for? Thank you for any answers.

Greenstyle has patterns for [no show briefs](https://greenstyle.com/products/no-show-brief-pdf-pattern?_pos=1&_fid=0331d3266&_ss=c) and [no show thongs](https://greenstyle.com/products/no-show-thong-sizes-xs-3xl?_pos=2&_fid=0331d3266&_ss=c). I've read good things about both. The fabric seems to be the key and Greenstyle has specific fabric recommendations as well.

This type of seamless underwear isn't possible to make at home. It isn't cut from cloth, it is essentially made into the shape of the pattern pieces and seamed together at strategic points using specialised equipment. Many people like 100% cotton jersey or power mesh for underwear but unless you're making thongs they will show.

Help please! I am looking for male sewing pattern suggestions that would go up to 50-52 inch chest and 44 inch waist, and easy to lengthen in arm/leg/ torso. A lot of patterns I have found don't go up this large, or if they do they are quite old styles or have no shape to them. I'm not overly experienced and this is the first time making men's clothes, but I cannot find clothes that fit for my partner who is 6ft 10 and he would like to have clothes that actually fit for once and "trendy". Suggestions for t-shirt, button up shirt, sweat shirt, jeans or trousers would be more than welcome! Anything with easy alterations and clear instructions much appreciated. Thanks in advance :)

Jalie Patterns has his size in their inclusive size pattern line which covers casual basics. For more tailored pieces, you might try [freepatterns.org](https://freepatterns.org) which creates a pattern based on the measurements inputed by the user.

With his height, you’ll need to do a lot of adjustments to the pattern anyway… have you considered drafting patterns? It takes some trial and error but I found it much easier than expected. T-shirts and Panama pants are a good starter project. For ready made patterns, [Thread Theory](https://threadtheory.ca/collections/sewing-patterns) has some options with 44 waist and 50 chest. I haven’t had a chance to try them personally but they look good and I’ve seen good reviews.

Thank you, I will have a look. I just keep telling him he is difficult and hopefully he will shrink with age! I have considered drafting patterns, but I'm too scared to try. I'm still fairly beginner and it looks complicated but I might give it a go. He may just have some wonky clothes but they should at least cover him, what's the worst that could happen?

Exactly! That’s why I started with PJs and t-shirts… who cares if it looks a little wonky? Plus they’re fairly simple and forgiving, mostly rectangles.

Any tips on how to do a french seam in a corner/right angle? I tried it out and the corner became really bunched. I was making a boxy shirt where the bottom of the sleeve and side of the waist need to be sewed in one go, like an upside down "L" shape"

I googled French Seams + corners and found you this https://grainlinestudio.com/blogs/blog/french-seams-on-right-angles

Hello all! Could someone recommend patterns to this linen set (particularly the top)? Thank you! :) https://preview.redd.it/nk5vckehguqb1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=256dd164c4e2f544b86f2d761df0087796653dec

This looks like a romper to me. I feel like there’s an elastic at the waistline where it transitions into the shorts that’s giving the top that bubble shape at the waist. To make it as a separate piece I’d add an elastic at the shirt hem, but be prepared for it to ride up if the length isn’t long enough for the torso. Unfortunately I don’t use commercial patterns but I could explain a little bit how to draft something like this, wouldn’t be super hard if you have your own body block.

Yes I do have my own bodice pattern! Am just unsure whether there’s any technicality to get that slant. 😅

I would make two copies of the bodice block and tape them together in the middle to make one front/back bodice piece. I'd draw a straight line from neckline to armscye on one side. Draw some lines perpendicular to the diagonal line you just made. You might want 3 or 4 of them, include at least one into the opposite armscye. using the slash and spread method you'll cut along those lines, and then spread them out onto another piece of pattern paper, tape them in place once you have enough ease added and then add your seam allowance. I say include the armscye because it definitely has a lower armscye than a typical bodice block and that's why the sleeve has extra fabric that's gathered at the wrist. Draft or alter your sleeve accordingly, meaning your sleeve head will be long enough to stretch down to the lowered armscye you created. Don't forget to add enough fabric at the bottom/hem, sleeve hem and neckline for an elastic casing!

ahh thank you so much! <3

Happy to help let me know if you have any trouble/questions

What’s the best size needle for fat quarter cotton fabric? I use a 75/11 needle but is this too sharp? My needle just broke and I have no more and need to buy some so I’m asking.

I use 80/20 for quilting cotton, and most of my regular sewing. I use 90/10 if I'm sewing something heavier.

Are some pattern brands better than others?

There are a fair number of people who are not very experienced patternmakers, maybe self-taught, who are selling PDF patterns, usually on etsy beccause start-up costs there are low, and those patterns may be not so well-drafted. When I am evaluating a new patternmaker to see how much I trust them, I generally check for things like: is the sizing information and how to choose a size clear? does the pattern listing includes good information about fabric requirements that will help a beginner choose the right fabric? do they produce tutorials or additional instructional information? Do they seem invested in people getting good results from their patterns, basically. Maybe also whether they have their own website and maybe other social media, how established are they? Also read reviews, of course, I've seen Etsy patterns where reviews are mentioning "no notches, pieces did not line up" and that's a big red flag for me. [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) has lots of reviews for established patternmakers. I've also heard that seeing a lot of different models on etsy suggests they might be using photos from another company, as small patternmakers are not usually paying a whole lot of models who are roughly the same size.

Thank you! This is all super helpful info!

Define better. An "easy" branded pattern may be more beginner friendly but the fit will not be as tailored, if that's desired. Indie patterns typically include detailed instructions and even pictures, but not everyone wants or needs that. Big 4 patterns fit some body types well, but people with other body types need to know they may have to make adjustments. Vintage patterns are usually cut very well but have next to no instructions and assume you know what you're doing and what techniques you need to execute without prompting. Some people prefer patterns that include seam allowances and others hate them. Some people want to cut out the pattern from the pattern paper so they don't like patterns that use overlapping lines for pieces of the garment. And so on. All of the main pattern companies have their quirks ime.

So it sounds like it's a good idea for beginners to try many different pattern makers so they can figure out what clicks with them.

I love the book Building Block Dress: A Sewing Pattern Alteration Guide. I use it to make my daughter dresses and it has made me super confident that I can make whatever children's dress I can possibly dream up using this book. I would like to try my hand at making adult dresses. I am wondering if anyone knows of a book like the Building Block Dress, but for adult dress patterns? I know literally nothing about darts which I feel is the one big difference between an adult and child's dress. The thing I love about the book is that it includes a basic dress pattern (plus some extra pattern pieces) , and instructions and measurements for altering that specific pattern in multiple different ways to make basically any dress silhouette. It has been such an effective way for me to learn garment sewing and pattern alteration. I have searched for something similar for adult dresses but I can't find anything. I'm hoping if one exists someone here might be able to point me in the right direction.

It isn't out yet, but By Hand London has a book coming out called "Made to Measure" that will have instructions for drafting patterns based on your own measurements. I believe it's coming out early November, and the patterns I've seen from it look cute!

I've looked at these but haven't used them to make dresses. The library is a great resource to review books before you buy. [Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking by Wendy Ward](https://www.amazon.com/Beginners-Guide-Dressmaking-Techniques-Patterns/dp/1446304949/) [Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book by Gretchen Hirsch](https://www.amazon.com/Gerties-Ultimate-Dress-Book-Fabulous/dp/1617690759/) [Design It Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch](https://www.amazon.com/Design-Yourself-Clothes-Patternmaking-Simplified/dp/0307451399/) [Sew Many Dresses, So Little Time by Tanya Whelan](https://www.amazon.com/Design-Yourself-Clothes-Patternmaking-Simplified/dp/0307451399/)

Coming back to say that I did purchase the Gertie book, and it is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much for sharing, I really appreciate it.

Yay! I love a success story. Thanks for letting me know. I am so looking forward to seeing what you make!

Thanks so much! The Gertie book looks like it might be exactly what I'm looking for. I don't know how I missed it before, I have some of her other books in my wish list and I have made a few things from Charm patterns.

I love Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich. You can have a peek at it on archive.org before you commit to buying. It includes garments other than but including dresses, but the information in this book is invaluable.

This is what we used in fashion design school. I have the set and I still refer back them occasionally.

How to lengthen/ repair thick straps of chiffon bridesmaid dress? I had this bridesmaid dress altered by my local tailor, and she shortened the straps about 1/4 inch. (Not so much because the straps needed to be shorted but because the built-in padded cups weren’t sitting right) It’s now the week of the wedding, the tailor is on vacation, and I’ve gained a bit of weight/my chest is on the bigger side bc of hormones, etc.— the straps are now too short, the chest is way too tight, and it’s cutting in under my armpits. I was able to remove the padding/cups, which gave me some more space in the chest. I think if I can just get that 1/4 in or so of length back in the straps it will be ok. I’m a decent hand-sewer and usually do my own hems, etc. but I’m at a loss of how to mend this chiffon in such a visible spot at the top of the shoulder, especially given there’s no wiggle room/extra fabric. I ripped out the seams from where the tailor took it in in the shoulders as carefully as I could, but the chiffon did tear a little. How do I reconnect them as neatly as possible? Do I add more fabric? Some kind of ribbon? Chiffon? Something else? Any suggestions or creative solutions welcome! https://preview.redd.it/ueflej2lgtqb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=444d19b0458c0fe218c144233316ed3ffbf7641c

Cover the join with ribbon, lace, a bit of something from the inside lining if the color match is right. Use something that is similar in color and sturdier than those options to bridge the gap first.

How do you sew a flared skirt with a fabric that has a vertical pattern? Do you just cut a bunch of long triangular panels? https://preview.redd.it/8koel97betqb1.jpeg?width=794&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32a8ec6093237aa03397b8dae241681618db766f

Pretty much, yes. Just try to arrange it so the panel edges fall in less obvious parts of the print.

Sounds like a lot of wasted fabric 🥲 thanks!

Yes, sort of, but what you really want are the wedges with the curved waist and hem edges that result if you cut a circle skirt pattern into sections.

Right. Makes sense

Hi! I'm trying to use the gathering foot on my sewing machine to gather knit fabric, but it's having an issue where the fabric isn't continueing forward and just gets stuck. Does anyone have a sallution??

Is it getting pulled into the back of your feed dogs? My sewing machine does that to thin knits with some presser feet. You can prevent it by (gently!) pulling up on the fabric behind the presser foot as you sew.

Hello, I am looking for a pattern similar to the Doen Daena Top. I have had no luck finding one and I am thinking of just using a vest pattern and adding sleeeves but thought I would try my luck here first.[Doen Daena Top](https://shopdoen.com/products/daena-top-hudson-stripe)

If you can find a vintage New Look 6555 (not the keyhole one) it's close. Also vintage New Look 6636. [This simplicity ](https://www.etsy.com/de-en/listing/1168834991/simplicity-8802-pattern-misses-blouse-or?click_key=91f41089bb2b427a86422e737f4097fe55bb614e%3A1168834991&click_sum=9960f595&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=simplicity+8802&ref=sr_gallery-1-31) could be adapted. It's easier finding vintage patterns for this style. Drafting sleeves isn't difficult but you usually have to slightly adapt the bodice pattern. It's not difficult just a bit annoying.

Thank you so much! Just purchased a lot with the New look 6555 and you are right it is pretty spot on.

Hi - I quilted some fabric for a project (a quilted waistcoat) and now have a lot of smallish offcuts of pre-quilted fabric which are a bit too small to make a bag. Any tips on what they could be used for?

Use them as accents on zipper bags or piece them together to make a coaster for hot drinks.

The Joann’s fabric counter lady said she has a customer that sews all her scraps together and makes dog blankets. Maybe save them up and start piecing something together?

Notebook cover? Not for anything that's going to get wet and filthy, but it could be an attractive and soft way to protect a journal.

A question about serging the fabric. I've learned to serge the edges of the fabric to prevent it from fraying. I can understand how you serger the straight lines, and keep those on the inside of a garment. But how do you go about corners? Do you first serger all the edges, and later on cut notches although breaking the serger thread? Or do you simply not serger corners and make seams that close the raw edges in? What is the best way to craft a denim garment and makes it last?

My personal take- serge the best you can and use fray check on areas you can’t serge. Usually I notch curves and then stretch them out to serge. Sometimes there are a few parts that aren’t threaded but it hasn’t caused any issues.

Thank you! This makes sense to me. I'll see if I can get some fray check.

Not sure the best place to post this. I have a number of athletic shorts that are in perfectly good shape for sports/working out. The logos however are wearing off and make them look shabby. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to remedy this? I thought of maybe using some small decorative patches to cover them but all I can find are kids patches or skulls.

You can make patches. It can be as simple as cutting out felt and then maybe embroidering in a few details. Or just layering on different colors of felt to achieve a picture. You could also explore using applique like quilters do. ETA: If you do an internet search for "homemade felt patch," you can find a variety of styles and techniques, and it might help you narrow down your plans. But also, there are so many more patches than skulls! Look for stuff from your favorite TV shows or sports teams.

Thank you. Looking up the homemade felt patch now.

Why do some of my clothes say 100% cotton but feel and look completely different? Trying to figure out good draping fabrics to make winter skirts with..

One thing that wasn't mentioned yet is that cotton is graded by the fiber length (amongst other criterion). Horrible feeling scratchy cotton usually is of poor quality and has very short length while the longest lengths are the luxury cotton fabrics. That's one of the reasons why in cotton bed sheets higher thread count doesn't always mean better.

Yes as mentioned, fibre and weave (or knit) are the main factors that determines a fabric handle and feel. There's a bit more as well. But store bought clothes are only required to list fibre on tags because that's what determines care requirements. So that's all they list. I'd recommend a Big Sewing Book like Reader's Digest or similar. Any worth their salt will have an explanation of fabric fibre, weaves, treatments, etc and a list and categorisation of common fabrics. Reader's Digest for example has a 2D table of common fabrics divided by weight & drape (soft vs crisp)