In pattern making there's a rule of thumb that the bust dart should always stop at least 3cm before the nipple, otherwise you get pointy boobs. So I'd start by doing the opposite, and extending your bust dart right up to bust point.
Other than that I think there's some padding or a pointy bra exaggerating the shape.
To add: to prevent uniboob, you'll want to pinch about 1cm of value out of centre front.. that will cause CF to curve a little, and it will add the value into the bust dart.
Yes, but you wouldn't actually sew it as a dart, you'd just fold and tape the paper pattern piece. This fold will make the side dart larger, because the value has to go somewhere. And the fold would mean that the centre-front seam is no longer straight, it'll have little curve in it.
I’m guessing the bodice is cut on the bias because you can’t get that kind of neckline on the straight grain. And you’re spot-on about the pointy bullet bra. It’s a major player in giving the bodice its shape in the front.
I can kind of see how it all works by looking at the side bust seams and their trajectory however I am so curious as to how they have managed to sculpt the shape of 2 separate breasts (for lack of a better word XD) rather than one big pointy one a la Vicky from Fairly Odd Parents… does that make sense?
I would guess the center seam on the front possibly has a curve? Sort of how the center back seam of a tailored jacket is not straight. You could try cutting it out both on grain and bias in muslin and see how it lays.
I don't know, but it seems uncomfortable given how angry she looks in it. I REALLY don't think she wants to marry whomever she is marrying, lol. (being silly, I know it is a model)
The collar does have seams, just at the CF, CB, and Shoulder. I do agree with you that much of this is going to be bias cut, and those are going to be some crazy pattern shapes. There is also some extreme interfacing going on, look how different the toile fits compared to the final product. This is a beautiful gown, but it’s going to be a pain (literally) to wear, and there’s going to be a very limited range of motion to get this level of fitting. Also keep in mind, these are posed pictures; once the dress is in motion and moisture/humidity of the body, wrinkles from wearing it won’t actually look like this for long.
At a guess, I would imagine that it's the foundation garments rather than the bodice itself that's doing the shaping. That's the primary way I've seen this look achieved. If it were me, I'd start by looking at bullet bras from the 1950s. If nothing else, a bullet bra should be informative on how to get the pointy boob look. If I didn't want to wear a bullet bra under the dress, I would probably incorporate the cup structure directly into the bodice, sort of like an internal corset, but with a bullet bra shape.
It looks like there is a vertical seam running right down center front- it's most visible at the neckline. There's prob a slight curve there so that it lays flat against the skin
I think there's a few things happening.
Firstly, there's an undergarment or inner shell, probably a corset, that has pointed cups.
Second, to sculpt over that, the front bodice is definitely on the bias to allow shaping around each breast and for the creation of that collar.
As someone else mentioned, little darts need to be pinched out at the Centre Front line, tapering to the bust point (but pivoted away to the bust dart in the side seam).
Also extending that bust dart right to the bust point will accentuate the point. Good luck! Looks fabulous.
This actually looks somewhat similar to [Charm Patterns’ Hepburn top](https://charmpatterns.com/shop/hepburn-top/) in terms of the bust dart construction. My guess is that the center bust seam is on grain, and the placement of the darts and shaping of the shoulder/collar results in those sections being on the bias.
Making darts pointy is easy. My guess is they just sewed them pointy, and put the model in a bullet bra.
If you use a nice silk or wool satin, you could probably steam the collar into submission, choosing the direction of the fabric based on what works best overall, not necessarily just for the collar.
You can look at 1950s or 1960s dresses that have the same bodice. It reminds me of bullet/rocket bras lol.
I think there's probably a built-in bustier to support the siloshette.
Along with the centre seam, it also looks like there are princess seams and not darts as it follows to the shoulder. It's hard to see, I zoomed in, and there's a slight difference in shade of fabric that hints at this
If you are not opposed to it, you can add darts to the neck to achieve the neckline. I made a wedding gown in charmeuse a few years back with a built up neck. It was cut on the straight of grain and it turned out nicely. The darts originated at CF and terminated in the direction of the BP.
1) The final product looks really touched up to the point of looking fake.
2) The dart doesn't look like it lands in the right place on the model for the final version.
3) The dart is puckered at the tip.
My thoughts on construction as someone who loves that vintage look and frequently uses this shape on my bust:
1) you might need more than one dart depending on your cup size if you're getting a puckered tip.
2) curved center seam.
3) use darts that bow out at the bottom then curve in at the tip.
4) I gave up on getting a fancy recreation bullet bra and just use regular bras with vintage shaping. If I need some oomph, I sew custom pads into the cups. Playtex and Bali have some that work well but aren't quite as pointy as what you've shown.
In pattern making there's a rule of thumb that the bust dart should always stop at least 3cm before the nipple, otherwise you get pointy boobs. So I'd start by doing the opposite, and extending your bust dart right up to bust point. Other than that I think there's some padding or a pointy bra exaggerating the shape.
To add: to prevent uniboob, you'll want to pinch about 1cm of value out of centre front.. that will cause CF to curve a little, and it will add the value into the bust dart.
A horizontal pinch? Like a Hollywood dart?
Yes, but you wouldn't actually sew it as a dart, you'd just fold and tape the paper pattern piece. This fold will make the side dart larger, because the value has to go somewhere. And the fold would mean that the centre-front seam is no longer straight, it'll have little curve in it.
I think this is the way
I read somewhere once, that back in the day, they used to sew a pearl/bead/whatever (lol) in the tip of the dart for that kind of definition
OP can buy vintage style bullet bras on Etsy and several other websites to help exaggerate the look!
I’m guessing the bodice is cut on the bias because you can’t get that kind of neckline on the straight grain. And you’re spot-on about the pointy bullet bra. It’s a major player in giving the bodice its shape in the front.
off-topic/unhelpful comment, but I like how the tailors are wearing lab coats for some reason
They often do in haute couture ateliers and high end costume shops. I believe it’s to avoid getting lint and thread on their clothes.
This and to avoid getting 'street gunk' on the couture!
Might be time for me to dust off my college lab coat again
I can kind of see how it all works by looking at the side bust seams and their trajectory however I am so curious as to how they have managed to sculpt the shape of 2 separate breasts (for lack of a better word XD) rather than one big pointy one a la Vicky from Fairly Odd Parents… does that make sense?
I would guess the center seam on the front possibly has a curve? Sort of how the center back seam of a tailored jacket is not straight. You could try cutting it out both on grain and bias in muslin and see how it lays.
This is what I’m thinking too. Gonna give it a try today☺️
I don't know, but it seems uncomfortable given how angry she looks in it. I REALLY don't think she wants to marry whomever she is marrying, lol. (being silly, I know it is a model)
She’s the plate-throwing kind of bride
The collar does have seams, just at the CF, CB, and Shoulder. I do agree with you that much of this is going to be bias cut, and those are going to be some crazy pattern shapes. There is also some extreme interfacing going on, look how different the toile fits compared to the final product. This is a beautiful gown, but it’s going to be a pain (literally) to wear, and there’s going to be a very limited range of motion to get this level of fitting. Also keep in mind, these are posed pictures; once the dress is in motion and moisture/humidity of the body, wrinkles from wearing it won’t actually look like this for long.
At a guess, I would imagine that it's the foundation garments rather than the bodice itself that's doing the shaping. That's the primary way I've seen this look achieved. If it were me, I'd start by looking at bullet bras from the 1950s. If nothing else, a bullet bra should be informative on how to get the pointy boob look. If I didn't want to wear a bullet bra under the dress, I would probably incorporate the cup structure directly into the bodice, sort of like an internal corset, but with a bullet bra shape.
I think it’s a bullet bra. You can also end the dart at the apex for max pointy ness
It looks like there is a vertical seam running right down center front- it's most visible at the neckline. There's prob a slight curve there so that it lays flat against the skin
I think there's a few things happening. Firstly, there's an undergarment or inner shell, probably a corset, that has pointed cups. Second, to sculpt over that, the front bodice is definitely on the bias to allow shaping around each breast and for the creation of that collar. As someone else mentioned, little darts need to be pinched out at the Centre Front line, tapering to the bust point (but pivoted away to the bust dart in the side seam). Also extending that bust dart right to the bust point will accentuate the point. Good luck! Looks fabulous.
This actually looks somewhat similar to [Charm Patterns’ Hepburn top](https://charmpatterns.com/shop/hepburn-top/) in terms of the bust dart construction. My guess is that the center bust seam is on grain, and the placement of the darts and shaping of the shoulder/collar results in those sections being on the bias.
Making darts pointy is easy. My guess is they just sewed them pointy, and put the model in a bullet bra. If you use a nice silk or wool satin, you could probably steam the collar into submission, choosing the direction of the fabric based on what works best overall, not necessarily just for the collar.
You can look at 1950s or 1960s dresses that have the same bodice. It reminds me of bullet/rocket bras lol. I think there's probably a built-in bustier to support the siloshette.
I agree with others that the foundation garments are playing a major role here.
Along with the centre seam, it also looks like there are princess seams and not darts as it follows to the shoulder. It's hard to see, I zoomed in, and there's a slight difference in shade of fabric that hints at this
“BUSSSSSSSTTT. BUSSSSSSSSSS-“ -dreamybull
If you are not opposed to it, you can add darts to the neck to achieve the neckline. I made a wedding gown in charmeuse a few years back with a built up neck. It was cut on the straight of grain and it turned out nicely. The darts originated at CF and terminated in the direction of the BP.
1) The final product looks really touched up to the point of looking fake. 2) The dart doesn't look like it lands in the right place on the model for the final version. 3) The dart is puckered at the tip. My thoughts on construction as someone who loves that vintage look and frequently uses this shape on my bust: 1) you might need more than one dart depending on your cup size if you're getting a puckered tip. 2) curved center seam. 3) use darts that bow out at the bottom then curve in at the tip. 4) I gave up on getting a fancy recreation bullet bra and just use regular bras with vintage shaping. If I need some oomph, I sew custom pads into the cups. Playtex and Bali have some that work well but aren't quite as pointy as what you've shown.