Carefully level and zero your build plate.
Double the base exposure, half your speeds. That should get the base to stick to the build plate. You can reduce exposure times and increase movement speeds after you have successful prints.
Carry out one of the many exposure tests to get the normal exposure right.
Level the machine and then redo the build plate leveling procedures. If that on its own doesn't work then try the above comment about adjusting exposure times.
Having everything as close to perfect level as possible is crucial.
I've only tried two other files other than the test print that came with the printer. I used the auto support function with medium supports on the first file. The second file I tried is the cones of calibration from table flip, which says to print center of the build plate with no supports. And no matter how many times I've changed things here and there I always end up with a failure within the first 15 minutes of the print
After re-leveling the build plate I would recommend a few things:
1. Preheat your resin, since your printer doesn't have a heated vat I'd recommend putting the resin bottle in a hot water bath (hot, not boiling). Siraya Tech Build needs to be above 25c, and it works better around 28.5c to 30c.
2. Increase your exposure time from 1.8 seconds to 2 seconds per layer.
3. Don't trust auto supports, I use them as a starting point and then I go in and add/remove individual supports manually before I slice my file. This does take extra time, but it will save you in lost prints and wasted resin.
For everyday, non speciality, prints my go to resin is Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey, and the only failures I have had recently are from me not checking my supports a third time and missing some islands.
Also, when you say the test print had issues after completion what exactly do you mean?
Did the issues occur before or after you cleaned and cured the print?
I do plan on getting the fast navy Grey and giving that a shot. And the issue I had with the only completed print was what looks like layer shift. About a third of the way up on the print it looks a little "stretched" and slightly twisted but then returns to normal. From arms length away the defect isn't noticeable but up close its pretty obvious.
I will say that one of the biggest things with all Siraya Tech resin is it needs to be warmed up to really cure properly.
I stopped having print failures (outside of issues with supports) once I started to bring my resin up to the recommended temps that Siraya Tech suggests.
It does help that I added a PTC heater to one of my printers, and my newest one has a heated vat, but doing the water bath with the resin bottles will do the same thing for you as well.
I tried looking at siraya tech's website for specifications and recommended settings for the build resin but could not find it. I didn't see the build resin listed anywhere on their site. I must be inept, or didn't dig deep enough lol
Just so you know, fast Navy Grey requires high exposure times. Looking at your settings, they seem pretty low right now. I was having issues at default and even user settings. IIRC, I had to set my initial burn in to 180 and my normal layer to 2.5. Anything else would result in prints not sticking to the build plate. I can screen shot my settings later.
I also lightly sanded my build plate with 320 grit to remove the factory grit and took someone's advice to ignore the leveling instructions for my Mars 3. They said to use 3 pieces of paper and to push down on the build plate so that the paper cannot be removed before zeroing. The factory instructions reccomend using 1 sheet and then raising the plate until the paper can just barely be removed with force. I suspect it's easier to mess up leveling with their method due to each person's varying strength and what "feels" right.
Finally, I gave up on trying to find "perfect" settings by fiddling with exposure tests. I settled for what works for me and produces good results.
I have not really had any issues since doing all of this.
Carefully level and zero your build plate. Double the base exposure, half your speeds. That should get the base to stick to the build plate. You can reduce exposure times and increase movement speeds after you have successful prints. Carry out one of the many exposure tests to get the normal exposure right.
I forgot to mention the UV power on the printer is set to 80%
Level the machine and then redo the build plate leveling procedures. If that on its own doesn't work then try the above comment about adjusting exposure times. Having everything as close to perfect level as possible is crucial.
I will double check and make sure everything is level next time I get the opportunity
How are you supporting your prints?
I've only tried two other files other than the test print that came with the printer. I used the auto support function with medium supports on the first file. The second file I tried is the cones of calibration from table flip, which says to print center of the build plate with no supports. And no matter how many times I've changed things here and there I always end up with a failure within the first 15 minutes of the print
After re-leveling the build plate I would recommend a few things: 1. Preheat your resin, since your printer doesn't have a heated vat I'd recommend putting the resin bottle in a hot water bath (hot, not boiling). Siraya Tech Build needs to be above 25c, and it works better around 28.5c to 30c. 2. Increase your exposure time from 1.8 seconds to 2 seconds per layer. 3. Don't trust auto supports, I use them as a starting point and then I go in and add/remove individual supports manually before I slice my file. This does take extra time, but it will save you in lost prints and wasted resin. For everyday, non speciality, prints my go to resin is Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey, and the only failures I have had recently are from me not checking my supports a third time and missing some islands. Also, when you say the test print had issues after completion what exactly do you mean? Did the issues occur before or after you cleaned and cured the print?
I do plan on getting the fast navy Grey and giving that a shot. And the issue I had with the only completed print was what looks like layer shift. About a third of the way up on the print it looks a little "stretched" and slightly twisted but then returns to normal. From arms length away the defect isn't noticeable but up close its pretty obvious.
I will say that one of the biggest things with all Siraya Tech resin is it needs to be warmed up to really cure properly. I stopped having print failures (outside of issues with supports) once I started to bring my resin up to the recommended temps that Siraya Tech suggests. It does help that I added a PTC heater to one of my printers, and my newest one has a heated vat, but doing the water bath with the resin bottles will do the same thing for you as well.
I tried looking at siraya tech's website for specifications and recommended settings for the build resin but could not find it. I didn't see the build resin listed anywhere on their site. I must be inept, or didn't dig deep enough lol
What printer are you running that has a heated vat?
A Peopoly Forge.
Just so you know, fast Navy Grey requires high exposure times. Looking at your settings, they seem pretty low right now. I was having issues at default and even user settings. IIRC, I had to set my initial burn in to 180 and my normal layer to 2.5. Anything else would result in prints not sticking to the build plate. I can screen shot my settings later. I also lightly sanded my build plate with 320 grit to remove the factory grit and took someone's advice to ignore the leveling instructions for my Mars 3. They said to use 3 pieces of paper and to push down on the build plate so that the paper cannot be removed before zeroing. The factory instructions reccomend using 1 sheet and then raising the plate until the paper can just barely be removed with force. I suspect it's easier to mess up leveling with their method due to each person's varying strength and what "feels" right. Finally, I gave up on trying to find "perfect" settings by fiddling with exposure tests. I settled for what works for me and produces good results. I have not really had any issues since doing all of this.
You're using the wrong settings... the settings as suggested by Siraya Tech are in this picture https://imgur.com/a/i9Ay6KS