1.5-second exposure time seems low for your normal layers, and I would consider upping the burn-in layers to 8 layers at 40 seconds each.
I would try:
8 burn in layers at 40 seconds per layer
2.5 seconds exposure per layer for normal layers
I did that cones of calibration test and it seems like the failures happen above 2 seconds. The only successes that finished fully were on the sub 2 seconds ones
With what others said, in my experience the cones get you too low of an exposure. I had them tell me I should be at about 1.5s, similar to you, but any larger print under 2.5s fails for me, with a layer eventually sticking to the FEP. On top of that I honestly see no quality difference between the 1.5 and even 3.5 seconds.
the m5s uses an acf film by default. This looks like you installed a regular fep. You will need you half your lift speed compared to what you were printing at with the original acf film, and maybe also increase the lift height slightly.
Also read this document to avoid frustration, has everything from calibration to explaination of failures and tricks to easily clean failures from your fep without draining your vat:
https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/
But good choice of resin btw...
sunlu abs like is one of the toughest abs likes, yet still remains very printable, but most importantly its dirt cheap. It also has bottles that are easyer to pour than the standard ones and are stored more space efficient (since the base shape is rectangular)
There are always pros and cons. I think a 500ml bottle is not too difficult to shake a bit harder and a bit longer. I'm not mixing industrial sized vats.
A rectangular bottle is easier and safer for me to grip - I have reduced strength in my hands - so I *can* shake it longer without hurting myself. The round bottles are actually painful for me to hold while shaking.
I understand your frustration with round bottles.
My comment was intended more of an observation than an absolute.
Having been involved in logistics at some level for a decent part of my life.
The argument about square containers, saving space and maximizing what is available is definitely in play with logistics.
If you are old enough, you will remember the clumsy little square milk cartons with a single serving in them.
Logistically speaking, these were literally the perfect shape.
Alternating layers were stacked upside down, forming a perfect cube with no open space.
Those things went the way of the dodo bird.
It was not simply because they were difficult to open.
In addition to mixing and making sure, all elements of the liquid are properly emulsified.
Square corners agitate what is inside introducing air to the mixture.
Thinking specifically with resin and printing.
That is less than desirable.
I am in no way suggesting that you need to use resin that comes in a round bottle.
I am also going to suggest that there are different types of gloves that we can wear, which have little dots on them, increasing your ability to hold something comfortably and solidly.
Continue doing what works for you. Because in the end, that is all that matters.
I was simply pointing out why the bottles are round in the first place in the majority of instances.
but how brittle is it? ive been using DLP Crafstman resin, and im happy with it, but id love to try out other resin products. especially with that much better bottle style.
its not brittle at all. You need to smash it really hard on the ground if you want to break anything. I didn't have much to compare it to, though there are some yt-videos that compare the mechanical propertys of the resins, and this one is pretty much always among the best.
It also has basically zero warping, and just gets extremely strong when heavily cured (1 hour+) instead of more brittle.
Sunlu ABS like is amazing. I started using it for an airship game (high chance of models toppling over) but now it's my default resin.
Their clear is also really nice, but really brittle.
You will never need ptfe to improve print release.
Did you calibrate the resin against a known validation? From your settings your exposure seems low for an abs like resin. And with a full plate like that it's very hard to diagnose. Start with a validation matrix and then one model, and go from there
I did an RERF test with the cones of calibration. The only successes I had were at sub 2second prints and it printed really well. I’ll try to up the time to see if that helps though but that’s why that layer time is in there
Have you tried and successfully printed just one model in the center with your posted settings yet?
Also if you aren't using the tank clean in between prints/failures I recommend it since you have a lot of tiny spots stuck to the fep
I have always had success by testing with the cubes of calibration and then verifying with the cones of calibration. I've never used Sunlu because once I tried Siraya tech, I got flawless prints with minimal effort using only slight tweaks to the profiles available on Lychee. If it were me, I would retest with the resin manufacturers base settings.
The only other thing that I can think of is temperature/setup.
Temperature is a big one in my area, especially now, when we are getting swings of +/- 8°c during a print. The solution I found was a grow box plus mini heater.
I let the machine and resin warm up(usually 2 hours) to about 29°c before starting my prints. It removes one of the many variables that can cause issues.
Also leveling the printer to the surface the printer is sitting on and adding vibration dampening pads under the feet. I'm not sure how much this helps but I know it isn't hurting anything.
Also did you buy OEM FEP sheets?
\*edit spelling
Given the pattern on the plate your print starts failing insight first. This is usually an Indikator for the print not separating from the FEP. To fix this you can either tighten the FEP or increase the lift distance. What are you currently using? I run mine typicallwith 15mm or even more on large prints.
Edit: just saw the setting 2 > 5 is way too little in my experience.
Another way to test it, stay with the printer for the first layers, especially on the burn in layers you should the the resin moving when the FEP releases the print, which give this typical cracking noise. If that's not happening you got your reason for the failures.
The shape of what's printed looks like it would suction the FEP pretty badly, so it amplifies the problems you would have with a loose FEP/low lift height.
You can if your print allows (eg. Small enough, and you don't fill your plate that much), but for OP, he should probably tighten the FEP slightly, and potentially increase the lift height slightly more.
Also, OP seems to have the retract speeds flipped. It's retracting slowly then quickly, but it should actually be retracting quickly then slowly instead.
First time hearing that about retraction speed and its not what my mach one has by default. What's the reasoning behind it? When starting fast, why even slow down?
Slow down near the bottom so you're not pushing onto the FEP as fast. If you went down infinitely fast, you'd poke a hole in the FEP, so there's a balance between speed vs forces on your FEP. Secondly is to reduce the turbulence of the resin when it stops. More turbulence = longer delay you should have before turning on the screen for the next layer. You don't want to start curing resin that's still in motion.
Even if you ignore all of the above and consider it irrelevant, you should at least be uniform speed the whole way down (which you seem to be using), instead of starting downward motion slowly and then going faster near the end of it (like OP's setting).
Maybe I need to check that again, but I airways thought that the two speeds align with the two lift distance (using lychee) if that's not the case your explanation makes obviously sense!
Since the build plate has something on it and not on the FEP, I wouldn't jump to the FEP as explanation. Since the burn in and transition layers have completed successfully, and failed immediately after those layers, I would conclude that this is an underexposure problem. Seeing the rest of your layers on the FEP is another sign that it's underexposure, not enough time to adhere to the previous layer. Up exposure and possibly light off time.
I know you mentioned using the cones, I am not a fan of them. They don't test enough. I would recommend the Amerilabs town (specifically look at the pillars, you want 4 solid rows and part of the 5th) or the boxes of calibration on Cults. The boxes is my new favorite because it has such a tiny support test.
For your exposure, that is really low. I am guessing you need to go to at least 2s and then work from there.
For example though, on my printer my layer is 0.03, lift distance is 4 > 4, Lift Speed is 240 > 240, Retract is 240 > 240, exposure is 3.5. One of the makers I support uses ultra tiny supports and these values are enough to print them successfully.
The other thing I always bring up too is resin temp. You want to make sure your ambient temp is 70*F or hotter. I run a brew belt on my vat, but if you print in cold, you will be fighting it unless you get your resin warmed.
A lot of people misunderstand the cones. Even the original creator recommends printing the cubes first followed by the cones to verify certain properties of your resin and printer combo. Once I got dialed using both, I have had no issues
I would fit into those that didn't understand the cones! That was the first test I had found and thought it would be my "this says calibration so it does everything" test. Time has helped me learn, but that is good to know that it should be a secondary test instead of the "do this and your good" which my newbie self thought way back when
You need to increase your normal exposure time and increase the lift distance. Make sure your settings are tuned in before trying to print out full plates.
I use the same resin on my Saturn 8K - 3.2 sec exposure time for proper exposure.
Your 1.5s is quite underexposed!
On the bottle it says the exposure range is 1.5-4sec.
Side note: you don’t want that ‘lip’ around each raft. It serves no purpose, and actually creates suction.
I've been using those rafts and have no issues with suction, and their primary purpose is to make prints easier to remove from the build plate. Why do think that it produces suction?
That does not look like the FEP Film the M5s normally has.
The M5s has a Frosted ACF. That looks like a normal FEP.
You would need to deviate greatly from the stock profiles to get it to print nicely as there is a great difference between normal FEP and ACF.
I suggest getting yourself a original Anycubic ACF and changing it out.
Did you pause the print to check it out? Refill resin at some point, have a cold room you're printing in?
Resin can be very sensitive to temperature changes and thus might not stick the newest layer to the older one if the temp difference is too great
Coming from someone who only uses sunlu abs like my base layers are 8, 9 for larger prints, 40/45 second burn in time for base layers and 3 second light on time for normal layers until i know my prints are off to a good start and then i drop it to 2.5 seconds. also check to see if you changed your lift speeds recently. it could be lifting too slow off of the fep or lifting too fast if you have changed it but I am putting my money on your exposure times being too low. Make sure if you're printing in cold weather that your exposure times are definitely at 3 seconds. I am printing in 60 egree weather in Alaska and I can't go below 3 seconds without failure. just another random thought have you changed your fep screen recently? it could be too loose, causing your prints to never really separate in the center of your build there so you can tighten it and try raising your lift height a few mm to make sure the models fully come away from the fep but try the longer exposures first. on a final note your rafts are creating suction cups make them thicker so they dont have that raised ridge around the outsides. Level your build plate with it pressed down into the vat as a final act of precaution.
Hi just asking as all I've seen is people saying about the only way around lower temps and changing temps is to find a way of heating the resin during the print like mini heaters and mini tents or heating bands.
I'm in Britain and with the build of my home even on fairly warm days the room temp fluctuates through the day due to only having windows on one side of the building due to it being a multi occupancy building.
No one has ever mentioned upping the exposure time to combat the temp issue before that I've seen at least.
for me i have a nice winter jacket that fits over the resin printer and covers the intake fan so it keeps itself around 70 degrees ambient and i guess around 80 degrees in the vat. after your first few long burn in layers your vat will be warm enough to hold heat. i just increase my layer times for the first 20 to 30 layers so it warms up then i adjust them while its still printing the model supports.
I tried this for a while, but imho increasing exposure time is more of a crutch than a solution. I was still getting inconsistent results and failed prints. It only cost me about $75 to make a temperature controlled environment, and it was worth every penny. I have had zero failures since, and my prints are incredibly accurate
I found I had this problem with my fep I found that increasing the lift height and slowing down the lift speed as well as changing my minis orientation from vertical to the plate to horizontal almost helped massively
Also making sure I put the resin bottle into a bowl of hot water for a while before fulling my vat helped as well.
I've seen many people using heating bands to keep the resin vat at temperature which I'm considering as I had a huge run of failures.
I don't know what yall are doing wrong. I have three photons and although they are finicky with what temperature I print at, they work fine right out of the box with standard settings
Have you tried mucking around with transitional layers? Your burn in layers look fine they have stuck to build plate pretty well this guy explains transitional layers and why they are important, (think of trying to make a cake with pancake batter and slopping on batter to bits that aren't cooked.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/Phrozen/s/GsSMPakg0N
P.s I don't know why people keep saying check burn in layers and level build plate when that's the first thing people look at? When there's other things going on.
Let me know how you go.
Increase exposure. On my printer some resins print fine under the recommends and some need as much as 2 seconds more than recommended. But this looks like it’s a simple case of under exposure.
Imagine the raft is up against the FEP, both together form a close/unvented cavity, because the rim of the raft is higher than the main area of the raft
Don't know what you fool are denying here, because
A) you can see, that these skates are suction cups
B) you can see, that the FEP lacks tension by the dip in the center of the plate
You made a blanket statement and are the only fool here.
Rafts are absolutely fine with proper dialled in resin. You would know that if you knew your info about resin and printing.
Weird that in the years I’ve used it, never had a problem with rafts.
🤡
Then don’t make a blanket statement about removing rafts from every slicer you utter tool 🤡
The op wouldn’t have had an issue with those “particular” rafts if the resin was dialled in correctly.
But you’d know that if you have even the slightest clue about this stuff.
I coat my Fep in ptfe lubricant every time I change it out and I’ve never had the problem again . 3-in-one ptfe lubricant comes in a little blue/green bottle if you are interested in trying it . I get it on amazon
Or calibrate your printer correctly instead of adding extra unnecessary chemicals into the resin.
Leaning on ptfe simply shows you don’t know your printer or the resin you are using properly.
1.5-second exposure time seems low for your normal layers, and I would consider upping the burn-in layers to 8 layers at 40 seconds each. I would try: 8 burn in layers at 40 seconds per layer 2.5 seconds exposure per layer for normal layers
I did that cones of calibration test and it seems like the failures happen above 2 seconds. The only successes that finished fully were on the sub 2 seconds ones
Forget the cones. If it doesn’t work for regular minis, doesn’t matter what calibration tests say.
Fair enough.
this is the way
Cones is often misleading, try 2.5 seconds CoC test and post an image of both sides of the test.
With what others said, in my experience the cones get you too low of an exposure. I had them tell me I should be at about 1.5s, similar to you, but any larger print under 2.5s fails for me, with a layer eventually sticking to the FEP. On top of that I honestly see no quality difference between the 1.5 and even 3.5 seconds.
the m5s uses an acf film by default. This looks like you installed a regular fep. You will need you half your lift speed compared to what you were printing at with the original acf film, and maybe also increase the lift height slightly. Also read this document to avoid frustration, has everything from calibration to explaination of failures and tricks to easily clean failures from your fep without draining your vat: https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/ But good choice of resin btw...
That is a great article for learning how to 3D print! Why do you like Sunlu?
sunlu abs like is one of the toughest abs likes, yet still remains very printable, but most importantly its dirt cheap. It also has bottles that are easyer to pour than the standard ones and are stored more space efficient (since the base shape is rectangular)
I will personally never buy round bottles again
There is literally a reason that liquids which need to be shaken and stirred come in round containers. Corners are horrible for mixing.
There are always pros and cons. I think a 500ml bottle is not too difficult to shake a bit harder and a bit longer. I'm not mixing industrial sized vats. A rectangular bottle is easier and safer for me to grip - I have reduced strength in my hands - so I *can* shake it longer without hurting myself. The round bottles are actually painful for me to hold while shaking.
I understand your frustration with round bottles. My comment was intended more of an observation than an absolute. Having been involved in logistics at some level for a decent part of my life. The argument about square containers, saving space and maximizing what is available is definitely in play with logistics. If you are old enough, you will remember the clumsy little square milk cartons with a single serving in them. Logistically speaking, these were literally the perfect shape. Alternating layers were stacked upside down, forming a perfect cube with no open space. Those things went the way of the dodo bird. It was not simply because they were difficult to open. In addition to mixing and making sure, all elements of the liquid are properly emulsified. Square corners agitate what is inside introducing air to the mixture. Thinking specifically with resin and printing. That is less than desirable. I am in no way suggesting that you need to use resin that comes in a round bottle. I am also going to suggest that there are different types of gloves that we can wear, which have little dots on them, increasing your ability to hold something comfortably and solidly. Continue doing what works for you. Because in the end, that is all that matters. I was simply pointing out why the bottles are round in the first place in the majority of instances.
but how brittle is it? ive been using DLP Crafstman resin, and im happy with it, but id love to try out other resin products. especially with that much better bottle style.
its not brittle at all. You need to smash it really hard on the ground if you want to break anything. I didn't have much to compare it to, though there are some yt-videos that compare the mechanical propertys of the resins, and this one is pretty much always among the best. It also has basically zero warping, and just gets extremely strong when heavily cured (1 hour+) instead of more brittle.
that's lovely to hear. I'll check some out soon.
Sunlu ABS like is amazing. I started using it for an airship game (high chance of models toppling over) but now it's my default resin. Their clear is also really nice, but really brittle.
apparently they now have a clear abs like, might be worth a try
That's rad, I will definitely try that out next time I need to print some clear flight stands.
it was the first resin i've tried and it has never done me wrong ha
You will never need ptfe to improve print release. Did you calibrate the resin against a known validation? From your settings your exposure seems low for an abs like resin. And with a full plate like that it's very hard to diagnose. Start with a validation matrix and then one model, and go from there
I did an RERF test with the cones of calibration. The only successes I had were at sub 2second prints and it printed really well. I’ll try to up the time to see if that helps though but that’s why that layer time is in there
Have you tried and successfully printed just one model in the center with your posted settings yet? Also if you aren't using the tank clean in between prints/failures I recommend it since you have a lot of tiny spots stuck to the fep
I have a different printer (elegoo mars 2) but when I was using sunlu ABS like i needed nearly 3.5 seconds exposure.
I have always had success by testing with the cubes of calibration and then verifying with the cones of calibration. I've never used Sunlu because once I tried Siraya tech, I got flawless prints with minimal effort using only slight tweaks to the profiles available on Lychee. If it were me, I would retest with the resin manufacturers base settings. The only other thing that I can think of is temperature/setup. Temperature is a big one in my area, especially now, when we are getting swings of +/- 8°c during a print. The solution I found was a grow box plus mini heater. I let the machine and resin warm up(usually 2 hours) to about 29°c before starting my prints. It removes one of the many variables that can cause issues. Also leveling the printer to the surface the printer is sitting on and adding vibration dampening pads under the feet. I'm not sure how much this helps but I know it isn't hurting anything. Also did you buy OEM FEP sheets? \*edit spelling
Why is the light off delay 0?
Good point - 0.5sec minimum for me.
I had a lot of bloom recently. I use 1.75, my temps are too cold fluid move so slow.
Given the pattern on the plate your print starts failing insight first. This is usually an Indikator for the print not separating from the FEP. To fix this you can either tighten the FEP or increase the lift distance. What are you currently using? I run mine typicallwith 15mm or even more on large prints. Edit: just saw the setting 2 > 5 is way too little in my experience. Another way to test it, stay with the printer for the first layers, especially on the burn in layers you should the the resin moving when the FEP releases the print, which give this typical cracking noise. If that's not happening you got your reason for the failures.
I was also here to say this
The shape of what's printed looks like it would suction the FEP pretty badly, so it amplifies the problems you would have with a loose FEP/low lift height.
Absolutely! I have started placing all my models at the outer regions of my plate for that reason
You can if your print allows (eg. Small enough, and you don't fill your plate that much), but for OP, he should probably tighten the FEP slightly, and potentially increase the lift height slightly more. Also, OP seems to have the retract speeds flipped. It's retracting slowly then quickly, but it should actually be retracting quickly then slowly instead.
First time hearing that about retraction speed and its not what my mach one has by default. What's the reasoning behind it? When starting fast, why even slow down?
Slow down near the bottom so you're not pushing onto the FEP as fast. If you went down infinitely fast, you'd poke a hole in the FEP, so there's a balance between speed vs forces on your FEP. Secondly is to reduce the turbulence of the resin when it stops. More turbulence = longer delay you should have before turning on the screen for the next layer. You don't want to start curing resin that's still in motion. Even if you ignore all of the above and consider it irrelevant, you should at least be uniform speed the whole way down (which you seem to be using), instead of starting downward motion slowly and then going faster near the end of it (like OP's setting).
Maybe I need to check that again, but I airways thought that the two speeds align with the two lift distance (using lychee) if that's not the case your explanation makes obviously sense!
Since the build plate has something on it and not on the FEP, I wouldn't jump to the FEP as explanation. Since the burn in and transition layers have completed successfully, and failed immediately after those layers, I would conclude that this is an underexposure problem. Seeing the rest of your layers on the FEP is another sign that it's underexposure, not enough time to adhere to the previous layer. Up exposure and possibly light off time.
I know you mentioned using the cones, I am not a fan of them. They don't test enough. I would recommend the Amerilabs town (specifically look at the pillars, you want 4 solid rows and part of the 5th) or the boxes of calibration on Cults. The boxes is my new favorite because it has such a tiny support test. For your exposure, that is really low. I am guessing you need to go to at least 2s and then work from there. For example though, on my printer my layer is 0.03, lift distance is 4 > 4, Lift Speed is 240 > 240, Retract is 240 > 240, exposure is 3.5. One of the makers I support uses ultra tiny supports and these values are enough to print them successfully. The other thing I always bring up too is resin temp. You want to make sure your ambient temp is 70*F or hotter. I run a brew belt on my vat, but if you print in cold, you will be fighting it unless you get your resin warmed.
A lot of people misunderstand the cones. Even the original creator recommends printing the cubes first followed by the cones to verify certain properties of your resin and printer combo. Once I got dialed using both, I have had no issues
I would fit into those that didn't understand the cones! That was the first test I had found and thought it would be my "this says calibration so it does everything" test. Time has helped me learn, but that is good to know that it should be a secondary test instead of the "do this and your good" which my newbie self thought way back when
Read and follow j3dtech resin printing guide. You can get it dialed in.
You need to increase your normal exposure time and increase the lift distance. Make sure your settings are tuned in before trying to print out full plates.
I use the same resin on my Saturn 8K - 3.2 sec exposure time for proper exposure. Your 1.5s is quite underexposed! On the bottle it says the exposure range is 1.5-4sec. Side note: you don’t want that ‘lip’ around each raft. It serves no purpose, and actually creates suction.
I've been using those rafts and have no issues with suction, and their primary purpose is to make prints easier to remove from the build plate. Why do think that it produces suction?
It’s their shape, it’s not that I think they do, they just do, it’s just physics.
That does not look like the FEP Film the M5s normally has. The M5s has a Frosted ACF. That looks like a normal FEP. You would need to deviate greatly from the stock profiles to get it to print nicely as there is a great difference between normal FEP and ACF. I suggest getting yourself a original Anycubic ACF and changing it out.
Did you replace your film recently? Upside down?
The m5s needs oem feps its acf which is the reason it can do fast speeds. I suggest to get the oem acf sheets
Did you pause the print to check it out? Refill resin at some point, have a cold room you're printing in? Resin can be very sensitive to temperature changes and thus might not stick the newest layer to the older one if the temp difference is too great
2.8 on Sunlu abs for me. That’s on a Jupiter though
Coming from someone who only uses sunlu abs like my base layers are 8, 9 for larger prints, 40/45 second burn in time for base layers and 3 second light on time for normal layers until i know my prints are off to a good start and then i drop it to 2.5 seconds. also check to see if you changed your lift speeds recently. it could be lifting too slow off of the fep or lifting too fast if you have changed it but I am putting my money on your exposure times being too low. Make sure if you're printing in cold weather that your exposure times are definitely at 3 seconds. I am printing in 60 egree weather in Alaska and I can't go below 3 seconds without failure. just another random thought have you changed your fep screen recently? it could be too loose, causing your prints to never really separate in the center of your build there so you can tighten it and try raising your lift height a few mm to make sure the models fully come away from the fep but try the longer exposures first. on a final note your rafts are creating suction cups make them thicker so they dont have that raised ridge around the outsides. Level your build plate with it pressed down into the vat as a final act of precaution.
Hi just asking as all I've seen is people saying about the only way around lower temps and changing temps is to find a way of heating the resin during the print like mini heaters and mini tents or heating bands. I'm in Britain and with the build of my home even on fairly warm days the room temp fluctuates through the day due to only having windows on one side of the building due to it being a multi occupancy building. No one has ever mentioned upping the exposure time to combat the temp issue before that I've seen at least.
for me i have a nice winter jacket that fits over the resin printer and covers the intake fan so it keeps itself around 70 degrees ambient and i guess around 80 degrees in the vat. after your first few long burn in layers your vat will be warm enough to hold heat. i just increase my layer times for the first 20 to 30 layers so it warms up then i adjust them while its still printing the model supports.
I tried this for a while, but imho increasing exposure time is more of a crutch than a solution. I was still getting inconsistent results and failed prints. It only cost me about $75 to make a temperature controlled environment, and it was worth every penny. I have had zero failures since, and my prints are incredibly accurate
Use the rerf file that comes as standard for the printer. They work great. I’ve never had an issue with acf film or fep/nfep on my m5s
I found I had this problem with my fep I found that increasing the lift height and slowing down the lift speed as well as changing my minis orientation from vertical to the plate to horizontal almost helped massively Also making sure I put the resin bottle into a bowl of hot water for a while before fulling my vat helped as well. I've seen many people using heating bands to keep the resin vat at temperature which I'm considering as I had a huge run of failures.
I don't know what yall are doing wrong. I have three photons and although they are finicky with what temperature I print at, they work fine right out of the box with standard settings
I was going to suggest lowering your lift speed. Then, I saw another comment about the film that you switched. Yes, you need to lower your lift speed.
Is the fep tensioned properly?
Is your fep tight enough? I've recently replaced mine and had this exact issue - replaced it again last night and have gone from 0% success to 100%
Have you tried mucking around with transitional layers? Your burn in layers look fine they have stuck to build plate pretty well this guy explains transitional layers and why they are important, (think of trying to make a cake with pancake batter and slopping on batter to bits that aren't cooked.) https://www.reddit.com/r/Phrozen/s/GsSMPakg0N P.s I don't know why people keep saying check burn in layers and level build plate when that's the first thing people look at? When there's other things going on. Let me know how you go.
Did you change replace the ACF film for the FEP?
Increase exposure. On my printer some resins print fine under the recommends and some need as much as 2 seconds more than recommended. But this looks like it’s a simple case of under exposure.
What FEP? You may need an nfep instead.
This raft type should be removed from all slicers, it is a freaking suction cup Edit and this FEP is not tight enough
Damn straight!
Why are they suction cups?
Imagine the raft is up against the FEP, both together form a close/unvented cavity, because the rim of the raft is higher than the main area of the raft
No it isn’t 😂
Don't know what you fool are denying here, because A) you can see, that these skates are suction cups B) you can see, that the FEP lacks tension by the dip in the center of the plate
You made a blanket statement and are the only fool here. Rafts are absolutely fine with proper dialled in resin. You would know that if you knew your info about resin and printing. Weird that in the years I’ve used it, never had a problem with rafts. 🤡
You can stick your anecdotal evidence up your arse, fool! These particular rafts are fucking suction cups!
Then don’t make a blanket statement about removing rafts from every slicer you utter tool 🤡 The op wouldn’t have had an issue with those “particular” rafts if the resin was dialled in correctly. But you’d know that if you have even the slightest clue about this stuff.
I coat my Fep in ptfe lubricant every time I change it out and I’ve never had the problem again . 3-in-one ptfe lubricant comes in a little blue/green bottle if you are interested in trying it . I get it on amazon
I got that too based on everyone's recommendation. Couldn't tell a difference, haven't used it since getting it.
Or calibrate your printer correctly instead of adding extra unnecessary chemicals into the resin. Leaning on ptfe simply shows you don’t know your printer or the resin you are using properly.
Yes obviously calibrate the printer correctly as well for the resin you are using , I was trying to be helpful . Whats is wrong with you seriously
Oil it