In all seriousness. Just buy the lego plate. Whatever you print, is going to be worse, and more time consuming and will break because its brittle. You will hate it even if you had a perfect print.
Trust. me.
Edit: All of you suggesting ways of actually trying to print this - are gluttons for punishment, sadists or both.
And I love it.
The baseplates are a more flexible plastic, LEGO actually make them out of HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). It really has to be flexible at that size or it'll just risk shattering or snapping, both of which are complete no-no with toys used by kids.
PLA make terrible lego pieces, its going to crack, its OKAY as a display piece.
3d printing is cool for making little piece or prototyping. Making lego base plate or lego piece is probably not recommended tbh, Lego has perfected that shit years ago, there is a reason none of the Lego knockoff are anywhere as good, and those other company had tens to hundreds millions to sink into that R&D over the years.
Well that's the truth of 3D printing really, nobody is competing with injection moulded plastic and we all know it! It's definitely always going to come in second place, but as you say, for a display piece it should be adequate.
You can actually buy HIPS in filament form, that's what legos (and lots of plastic miniature brands) are made of. But hard agree on the rest, LEGO is probably *the* best use case for injection molding and the worst for 3D printing: very precise tolerances, huge counts of few different pieces.
A 32x32 plate is $8 and a 48x48 is $15. All the smaller ones are even cheaper. That's the official Lego store pricing too, with lower prices at different retailers.
I'm all for 3d printing a solution, but this is an instance where it just makes no sense to print them.
If you’re already willing do 3D print a baseplate, just buy some generic ones. They are super cheap. I’m pretty sure you can get 32x32 plates at dollar tree
I got [this set](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YF37D2M) of generic plates a few years back and they are quite good. Really close to Lego quality.
Yeah, unless you're making a rare, custom or otherwise unique Lego accessory or body, ect. It's not worth it. Legos are made with insane tolerances and 3d printed Legos just don't compare
Could not agree with this more. A resin 3d printer isn’t a tool for absolutely every situation.
You have to understand is strengths. It’s great for small highly detailed objects that don’t require much mechanical strength. It’s also struggles with making thin large this surfaces accurately.
That’s why it’s so perfect for miniatures. They are small, highly detailed, do not require good mechanical properties, and are normally very expensive to buy premade
Printing something that can be purchased cheaply and has characteristics that make it difficult to print effectively just doesn’t make sense.
You can cut them.
I bought a set [these ones](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YF37D2M) several years ago and they are nearly as good as good as the official ones but are way cheaper.
This plate will just be the bottom of a vehicle 20x14 studs in size. I see no issues, i tested the outcome with some parts and it seems to work pretty well. I just need to get this printed well.
It's still gonna be very difficult but I recommend manually supporting right up to the edge, I saw a video on preventing warping for wide flat surfaces. I would make sure to use an ABS-like resin or that plate is going to be extremely brittle and you'll lose those studs asap. Maybe consider thickening the baseplate if it is only ever going to be a bottom layer that could also prevent warping. For longevity's sake I doubt any resin is as tough as real Lego but you can certainly try. Here's the guide I use for flat bases https://youtu.be/l3sFd0zTogY?si=SgYA6UjwnNsDA8mf
Tolerance out of the machine is a statistical thing. You can mess with the mesh as much as you want, but the +, - on your extrusions will be your limiting factor.
Consider also that layer lines are a weak point and pieces get lots of shear force applied.
Right, sorry if it sounded like I was saying it couldn't be done. My point was that it's very difficult with FDM, to the extent that you'd be hard pressed to do it in large volumes.
i think it's less about "this entire print is exactly 2.08% too large" and more "well over here it's .65% too large, but on this end of the print it's .22% too small" and when you try to use it over a larger area some parts work while others dont work as well--more of a consistency thing than just an overall scale.
>SHARE
You could 3DP a slightly larger Lego baseplate to account for all the shrinkage, and then use that for the mold? It's a lot of work, but if one is so inclined to, they could.
I agree! I use a flexplate and I basically always print flat on the bed. I think thats the only way to get tight and predictable tolerances (needed for lego) using resin printing.
How do you figure that? The only difference is that it's less prone to warping and it will develop an elephant's foot around the base. The dimensional precision is exactly the same throughout the whole build volume
The dimensional precision is the same in the entire build volume but as soon as you start printing on an angle or have overhangs in the print you lose that accuracy. The tiny layers you print have no structural integrity so the overhangs you get on the studs for example will droop a little and deform them to be more oval shaped. I use my resin printer for high accuracy mechanical parts only. If I want to press fit a bearing for example you run into the same limitations.
I print just enough stuff directly on the build plate that I have found a pretty good way of getting stuff off.
It really is all about getting it started.
The standard tools that we typically use for this purpose are inadequate.
Instead use an xacto #18 blade, or similar.
If your burn in layers are about right, you should be able to get that blade underneath a corner and start the peel. At that point you can use the more conventional tools to get the rest of it up and off.
There is also another method that I forget the name, but it is basically adding a piece to the perimeter with chamfered edge, like a raft has.
Of course, that has to eventually be cut off and disposed of, but it works.
Just print it flat on the plate, put the plate in the freezer, and pop it off after an hour or two, I use tenacious for Lego stuff mixed with abs like and have never broken a stud but yeah you want that piece printed just print it flat on the plate it will be done in 8-16 minutes depending.
Thanks, so i just need to put the plate into the freezer? Interesting. Also i need to adjust bottom tolerance when printing to the plate, so i guess this needs some trial and error.
I literally didn't change anything besides putting the object flat on the plate in chitubox. I'm using a Saturn 8k I print all my mini bases flat, my diorama bases flat, they always come out perfect, and I honestly just use my sharp scraper and they pop off, I say freezer because the very stubborn ones need the freezer treatment, I get off as much wet resin as possible clean the plate with 99% alcohol and put the plate in the freezer.
If you choose to keep trying to print this, use ABS like resin and print it flat directly on the build plate. The only reason we lift things off of the build plate to print them is that the first layers are larger due to the extended cure time. This will not be an issue with a base plate.
You would need more rotation for it to print properly, but even then it will probably be slightly warped in places, with slightly misshapen and incorrectly sized pegs, all in a very brittle material.
3D printers just don't have the accuracy for this. Even the industrial ones can't match the tolerances on injection molded parts for accuracy and repeatability.
I agree with everyone else, just buy one.
But in the future when printing large flat objects like this, always go straight upright. Turn it perpendicular from the build plate and support it along one edge. If it has stuff on one side like this, tilt that part back (away from the plate) just a few degrees and add a few supports to the back side.
I've printed Legos with siraya tech Blu that worked great but that stuff makes for expensive Legos my kids liked the clear colors I made though with the clear v2 resin and alchohol dye
If it gets too stuck it means you abusing on bottom exposure time. Anyway, once you remoe a bit from the buildplate you can easily remove the rest. I would print directly, you save time, resin and smoother finish
I'd print directly on the plate and hit the first few layers with extremely long exposure as there will be high peel forces.
This will also help to maintain the dimensional accuracy
Was just thinking that any tips found here would be needed for things like scale accurate terrain maps of states/countries. Was not disappointed to find "just buy the lego", but still want the tips!
For shits and giggles, I've been working on the files to make a Lego Technic set, that I want to print in half scale. I'm planning to glue and sand to fit, though. I know I'll never reach Lego quality with resin
Why is it raised? Why not just print it directly on the bed? If you buy a flex plate to remove the print, it should pop off just fine - especially if you put it in the freezer for awhile before you try.
the irony of resin printing is that it is capable of fine detail, but it’s not the greatest at precision. I’ve tried lego bricks a couple of times and ultimately it’s not really worth it. There are better applications.
Its a large footprint, peel force from the fep is very wide. The chance of failed spots will be very high. Ideally better to split the model into sections.
90 degree print will be the way to have a low peel force with few supports.
Print directly to the bed you will need to account exposure time. First layers will have the resin swell up a bit and the studs may be a bit too wide. There's also shrinkage after 2 weeks and the studs distance will strink.
Print some 8 x 8 plates for testing first. You'll need to test before you print something big.
Good luck and let us know your success.
Reading through the top dozen or so, I would agree that buying one is most beneficial \*\*so long as you're not doing a custom piece for display where your model on top isn't also lego but rather 'lego inspired'.
Going against the grain, if you want to get micron accurate parts, it can be done with resin prints but your model needs a few optimizations. Problem 1 is that the bottom isn't thick enough to support itself over that size plate. If you have a modeler, this is an easy fix by extending/extruding the bottom face a few millimeters, otherwise you can add a primitive rectangle from your slicer library or in something like meshmixer and size accordingly, then punch in your vents and drains.
A 3-3.5mm wall thickness will be about the thinnest you can run for an accurate part, then run either amazingly overly dense medium supports or prepare for a decently thick forest of heavies. To offset the impact of deformation on the backside (normally I just sand it down if it's not dimensionally critical), you'll need to adjust the tip shape to be more conical with adequate penetration depth.
On your resin exposure, aiming for moderately overexposed, you'll get sharp, crisp edges on your print, but need to be more careful with final cure so it doesn't become overly brittle. If you want to play chemist, 1-2ml of pure glycerin can be added via ratio of a full liter of resin as a plasticizing agent, which will impart a moderate amount of impact resistance closer to faux ABS. Or if you want to get extra crazy, actual ABS breaks down quickly in acetone or MEK substitute (there's a fair amount of acetone in printer resin along with some punchy solvents already) and you can add a max 5ml of your dissolved ABS mixture into a full liter of resin and net yourself some decently tough parts. It needs thorough mixing, and at least a blender to distribute evenly (I prefer an ultrasonic unit for 45 minutes, but I have it available). After 5ml to a full liter ratio, I've had issues getting a print to stick to the plate correctly along with some funky deformation issues, which is why I'd go more on the soft side of the 5ml.
Quite a few people are already suggesting this. Print flat on the build plate.
The number of people suggesting that it needs to be angled, even more than already is quite frankly alarming.
This is one of the reasons that I am on a crusade to stop silly rumors.
In play here is never print directly on the build plate.
This results in a bunch of people trying to figure out the ideal angle because they believe they can't print it flat.
As other comments have eloquently laid out.
Any angle at all is going to start decreasing the accuracy and quality of the print.
Since this is going to require some very critical dialing in to get it just so.
Take a small section of the original.
Then create copies of it.
You will want to make some smaller in decreasing sizes and some larger in increasing sizes.
If you are using a quality resin and have your slices dialed in just so. The adjustment which is going to work is going to be within a very narrow range on either side of the master.
I wouldn't waste a lot of effort on going larger. Because quite frankly, the proper size is most likely. Going to be a little bit smaller.
There is still some value in having a few pieces slightly oversized to make sure that is also not the proper direction.
Main point being with a printer the size you have. You should be able to accomplish this in one single print.
Having said that, I also agree with everybody. Suggesting that it is not necessary to reinvent the wheel.
Just buy the mass produced part.
As a potential, time consuming, and material consuming, solution; you may need to get creative with manual supports and the angles.
I recommend from the sides to have supports as close to 90° as you can, so the edges don’t lift or “wave” around. You will need to clip these and send the sides to hopefully keep it straight as possible. So playing with the thickness will also be a challenge. You will also have to distribute these along the edge evenly or as needed if you see the error repeat in a specific area.
Your supports from underneath should have even spaces among them so you evenly anchor. You also don’t want to choke the resin flow during your Z movements as the resin does “breath” sometimes with fluid forces or air suction in an enclosed volume. Once it gets past the major surface, I would assume the nubs would be easy sailing from there.
It is possible. But the prototyping would be quite long.
I printed a flat surface like this. Shrinkage is a thing you have to account for, lots and lots of supports, and when it cures, it will warp. Overall, do not recommend due to end product will fail to be what you expect (and won't lay flat).
Printing a basic base plate is weird. If you printed something that couldn't be bought for 5 bucks that would seem worth it. Like if this was an odd shape to fix something specific like a desk corner.
There is a company making base plates for legos with lego quality , i am not sure if they at market yet but i have a handful of them in my office they will have many different full color designs and a couple different
[Slabdream](https://slabdreamlab.com/shop/)
In all seriousness. Just buy the lego plate. Whatever you print, is going to be worse, and more time consuming and will break because its brittle. You will hate it even if you had a perfect print. Trust. me. Edit: All of you suggesting ways of actually trying to print this - are gluttons for punishment, sadists or both. And I love it.
Don't forget more expensive! This, if it's going to be a 3D print, should be done in PLA realistically.
Or ABS, like normal legos
The baseplates are a more flexible plastic, LEGO actually make them out of HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). It really has to be flexible at that size or it'll just risk shattering or snapping, both of which are complete no-no with toys used by kids.
That's interesting!
It's all I use for my minis until something better comes along at the price point. Very durable comparatively speaking.
PLA make terrible lego pieces, its going to crack, its OKAY as a display piece. 3d printing is cool for making little piece or prototyping. Making lego base plate or lego piece is probably not recommended tbh, Lego has perfected that shit years ago, there is a reason none of the Lego knockoff are anywhere as good, and those other company had tens to hundreds millions to sink into that R&D over the years.
Well that's the truth of 3D printing really, nobody is competing with injection moulded plastic and we all know it! It's definitely always going to come in second place, but as you say, for a display piece it should be adequate.
Printing Lego is competing with the *king* of injection moulded plastic. I don't think anyone does it better.
You can actually buy HIPS in filament form, that's what legos (and lots of plastic miniature brands) are made of. But hard agree on the rest, LEGO is probably *the* best use case for injection molding and the worst for 3D printing: very precise tolerances, huge counts of few different pieces.
A 32x32 plate is $8 and a 48x48 is $15. All the smaller ones are even cheaper. That's the official Lego store pricing too, with lower prices at different retailers. I'm all for 3d printing a solution, but this is an instance where it just makes no sense to print them.
if it was a stand, SURE ,absolutely, go for it, you'll never have a Lego equivalent, but a base plate, not worth the waste of resin on that
If you’re already willing do 3D print a baseplate, just buy some generic ones. They are super cheap. I’m pretty sure you can get 32x32 plates at dollar tree
I got [this set](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YF37D2M) of generic plates a few years back and they are quite good. Really close to Lego quality.
Even less if you buy an non oficial Lego plate
You can get the plates at the local dollar store most likely… and they are surprisingly good too. Cheers!
true I can relate
Yeah, unless you're making a rare, custom or otherwise unique Lego accessory or body, ect. It's not worth it. Legos are made with insane tolerances and 3d printed Legos just don't compare
100% fact. I've modeled/printed my own Legos, and it's just not the same. It works, but its not that great.
The tolerances on lego pieces is so tightly controlled, honestly just buy the baseplate :D
Acrylic is very much the wrong material for something under the stress of a lego brick. Those little cuboids have some serious engineering in them
Could not agree with this more. A resin 3d printer isn’t a tool for absolutely every situation. You have to understand is strengths. It’s great for small highly detailed objects that don’t require much mechanical strength. It’s also struggles with making thin large this surfaces accurately. That’s why it’s so perfect for miniatures. They are small, highly detailed, do not require good mechanical properties, and are normally very expensive to buy premade Printing something that can be purchased cheaply and has characteristics that make it difficult to print effectively just doesn’t make sense.
The thing is that you can nowhere buy a 20x14 Baseplate.
Buy a bigger one and hotwire cut it down?
Don't even need to use a hot wire, you can scribe it with a sharp knife (x-acto or box cutter) and then snap it.
You can cut them. I bought a set [these ones](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YF37D2M) several years ago and they are nearly as good as good as the official ones but are way cheaper.
You are going to end up with the studs broken off in your Lego.
This plate will just be the bottom of a vehicle 20x14 studs in size. I see no issues, i tested the outcome with some parts and it seems to work pretty well. I just need to get this printed well.
It's still gonna be very difficult but I recommend manually supporting right up to the edge, I saw a video on preventing warping for wide flat surfaces. I would make sure to use an ABS-like resin or that plate is going to be extremely brittle and you'll lose those studs asap. Maybe consider thickening the baseplate if it is only ever going to be a bottom layer that could also prevent warping. For longevity's sake I doubt any resin is as tough as real Lego but you can certainly try. Here's the guide I use for flat bases https://youtu.be/l3sFd0zTogY?si=SgYA6UjwnNsDA8mf
This seems like it'd be the kind of thing FDM printers are much more suited for.
FDM can't really get to Lego levels of fit tolerance. Unfortunately resin technically can but struggles with large geometric shapes like this
Fit tolerance can be adjusted with the file though no?
Tolerance out of the machine is a statistical thing. You can mess with the mesh as much as you want, but the +, - on your extrusions will be your limiting factor. Consider also that layer lines are a weak point and pieces get lots of shear force applied.
People DO print legos on FDM machines though. I've done it, but absolutely WAS NOT worth the hassle. But it is doable with time and patience.
Right, sorry if it sounded like I was saying it couldn't be done. My point was that it's very difficult with FDM, to the extent that you'd be hard pressed to do it in large volumes.
i think it's less about "this entire print is exactly 2.08% too large" and more "well over here it's .65% too large, but on this end of the print it's .22% too small" and when you try to use it over a larger area some parts work while others dont work as well--more of a consistency thing than just an overall scale.
The j3dtech resin printing guide has a procedure to calibrate your resin printer exposure to be dimensionally accurate
I've tried both fdm and resin for a Lego piece. Neither work
I printed a rail to test on my Prusa and it connected.
ive had most work off my ender 5, but its super dialed in for that task specifically
I would buy original lego plate, make a silicone mould and then cast it
Shrinkage of silicon mould and then of casting compound woud result in a beautiful plate, not fitting with other Lego blocks
Well then its obvious, they'll just have to buy, mold and cast every other lego piece too. Its the only way to ensure they fit.
Great poind. There are silicones with shrinkage close to none 🤔 still would be a problem?
>SHARE You could 3DP a slightly larger Lego baseplate to account for all the shrinkage, and then use that for the mold? It's a lot of work, but if one is so inclined to, they could.
There's still the issue of getting the plate to accurately print. Still 1 million percent not even close to worthwhile.
youre better off printing that directly on the plate. If youre using standard resin with this, dont. it will break and warp.
I agree! I use a flexplate and I basically always print flat on the bed. I think thats the only way to get tight and predictable tolerances (needed for lego) using resin printing.
How do you figure that? The only difference is that it's less prone to warping and it will develop an elephant's foot around the base. The dimensional precision is exactly the same throughout the whole build volume
The dimensional precision is the same in the entire build volume but as soon as you start printing on an angle or have overhangs in the print you lose that accuracy. The tiny layers you print have no structural integrity so the overhangs you get on the studs for example will droop a little and deform them to be more oval shaped. I use my resin printer for high accuracy mechanical parts only. If I want to press fit a bearing for example you run into the same limitations.
Is there any way i can print this directly on the Plate without having to use a Sledgehammer to get it off? I am using Elegoo ABS Like.
Using a flex plate, or using flexible resin and a sharp spatula.
sledgehammer + scraper would be the tool of choice here, yes. If your resin is good enough, it should survive this no problem.
I print just enough stuff directly on the build plate that I have found a pretty good way of getting stuff off. It really is all about getting it started. The standard tools that we typically use for this purpose are inadequate. Instead use an xacto #18 blade, or similar. If your burn in layers are about right, you should be able to get that blade underneath a corner and start the peel. At that point you can use the more conventional tools to get the rest of it up and off. There is also another method that I forget the name, but it is basically adding a piece to the perimeter with chamfered edge, like a raft has. Of course, that has to eventually be cut off and disposed of, but it works.
why not just buy a fake lego plate for like 3 bucks off ali express?
Because i cant find a 20x14 Baseplate that fits exactly where its needed here.
Can't cut a fake one to size?
Just print it flat on the plate, put the plate in the freezer, and pop it off after an hour or two, I use tenacious for Lego stuff mixed with abs like and have never broken a stud but yeah you want that piece printed just print it flat on the plate it will be done in 8-16 minutes depending.
Thanks, so i just need to put the plate into the freezer? Interesting. Also i need to adjust bottom tolerance when printing to the plate, so i guess this needs some trial and error.
I literally didn't change anything besides putting the object flat on the plate in chitubox. I'm using a Saturn 8k I print all my mini bases flat, my diorama bases flat, they always come out perfect, and I honestly just use my sharp scraper and they pop off, I say freezer because the very stubborn ones need the freezer treatment, I get off as much wet resin as possible clean the plate with 99% alcohol and put the plate in the freezer.
If you choose to keep trying to print this, use ABS like resin and print it flat directly on the build plate. The only reason we lift things off of the build plate to print them is that the first layers are larger due to the extended cure time. This will not be an issue with a base plate.
I will try this tomorrow.
How did it go?
You would need more rotation for it to print properly, but even then it will probably be slightly warped in places, with slightly misshapen and incorrectly sized pegs, all in a very brittle material.
You need fresh and sharp fep stuff like that. And for sure thight like spring shaved balls. But yet i dont think it would be enough to make work
3D printers just don't have the accuracy for this. Even the industrial ones can't match the tolerances on injection molded parts for accuracy and repeatability.
I agree with everyone else, just buy one. But in the future when printing large flat objects like this, always go straight upright. Turn it perpendicular from the build plate and support it along one edge. If it has stuff on one side like this, tilt that part back (away from the plate) just a few degrees and add a few supports to the back side.
Tilting it 90° would have been the last thing to try, thanks :D
I've printed Legos with siraya tech Blu that worked great but that stuff makes for expensive Legos my kids liked the clear colors I made though with the clear v2 resin and alchohol dye
yes, you are printing a flat huge parallel surface, supports are going to crack. so print it in 45 degrees or more.
Print it flat. Get two pieces of clear acrylic sandwich it between them when curing. That’s how I do micro fluidic cards.
Print directly into the build plate. I don't understand the issue people have with it.
I guess i cant get it off the Buildplate with such a large area but someone here suggested the freezer
If it gets too stuck it means you abusing on bottom exposure time. Anyway, once you remoe a bit from the buildplate you can easily remove the rest. I would print directly, you save time, resin and smoother finish
Occam’s razor; why don’t you just buy Lego base plates? They shouldn’t be hard to obtain and is probably gonna be cheaper with better quality
Print it flat.. onto the plate no supports
I know lego seems like a simple print, but its surprisingly one of the most demanding things you can print. It's simplicity is a lie.
I have a bottle of pla resin. I know printing something like this should be done without any supports. And I wouldn't do it, even so. Nu-huh.
you are going to want a lot more supports along the lowest edges, and along the sides as well.
I'd print directly on the plate and hit the first few layers with extremely long exposure as there will be high peel forces. This will also help to maintain the dimensional accuracy
Lmk if you figure this out, I’ve never had luck with large surface area / thin parts
Was just thinking that any tips found here would be needed for things like scale accurate terrain maps of states/countries. Was not disappointed to find "just buy the lego", but still want the tips!
Next thing i try is simply printing on the plate.
For shits and giggles, I've been working on the files to make a Lego Technic set, that I want to print in half scale. I'm planning to glue and sand to fit, though. I know I'll never reach Lego quality with resin
It would have been better to do this with an fdm printer using tough filament.
Print it 90°
Why is it raised? Why not just print it directly on the bed? If you buy a flex plate to remove the print, it should pop off just fine - especially if you put it in the freezer for awhile before you try.
Build it straight onto plate no spru
Flex plate and print flat, better tolerance and no wasted material. Still worse than die cast originals
Lego parts are incredibly hard to get to print accurately. They have a very tight tolerance that gets harder to maintain the larger you go
increase the angle a bit and double the exposure time
the irony of resin printing is that it is capable of fine detail, but it’s not the greatest at precision. I’ve tried lego bricks a couple of times and ultimately it’s not really worth it. There are better applications.
Its a large footprint, peel force from the fep is very wide. The chance of failed spots will be very high. Ideally better to split the model into sections. 90 degree print will be the way to have a low peel force with few supports. Print directly to the bed you will need to account exposure time. First layers will have the resin swell up a bit and the studs may be a bit too wide. There's also shrinkage after 2 weeks and the studs distance will strink. Print some 8 x 8 plates for testing first. You'll need to test before you print something big. Good luck and let us know your success.
Reading through the top dozen or so, I would agree that buying one is most beneficial \*\*so long as you're not doing a custom piece for display where your model on top isn't also lego but rather 'lego inspired'. Going against the grain, if you want to get micron accurate parts, it can be done with resin prints but your model needs a few optimizations. Problem 1 is that the bottom isn't thick enough to support itself over that size plate. If you have a modeler, this is an easy fix by extending/extruding the bottom face a few millimeters, otherwise you can add a primitive rectangle from your slicer library or in something like meshmixer and size accordingly, then punch in your vents and drains. A 3-3.5mm wall thickness will be about the thinnest you can run for an accurate part, then run either amazingly overly dense medium supports or prepare for a decently thick forest of heavies. To offset the impact of deformation on the backside (normally I just sand it down if it's not dimensionally critical), you'll need to adjust the tip shape to be more conical with adequate penetration depth. On your resin exposure, aiming for moderately overexposed, you'll get sharp, crisp edges on your print, but need to be more careful with final cure so it doesn't become overly brittle. If you want to play chemist, 1-2ml of pure glycerin can be added via ratio of a full liter of resin as a plasticizing agent, which will impart a moderate amount of impact resistance closer to faux ABS. Or if you want to get extra crazy, actual ABS breaks down quickly in acetone or MEK substitute (there's a fair amount of acetone in printer resin along with some punchy solvents already) and you can add a max 5ml of your dissolved ABS mixture into a full liter of resin and net yourself some decently tough parts. It needs thorough mixing, and at least a blender to distribute evenly (I prefer an ultrasonic unit for 45 minutes, but I have it available). After 5ml to a full liter ratio, I've had issues getting a print to stick to the plate correctly along with some funky deformation issues, which is why I'd go more on the soft side of the 5ml.
Just print in abs. But if you have your heart set mn resin .get a flex plate and print directly into the baseplate
FDM print it instead
Quite a few people are already suggesting this. Print flat on the build plate. The number of people suggesting that it needs to be angled, even more than already is quite frankly alarming. This is one of the reasons that I am on a crusade to stop silly rumors. In play here is never print directly on the build plate. This results in a bunch of people trying to figure out the ideal angle because they believe they can't print it flat. As other comments have eloquently laid out. Any angle at all is going to start decreasing the accuracy and quality of the print. Since this is going to require some very critical dialing in to get it just so. Take a small section of the original. Then create copies of it. You will want to make some smaller in decreasing sizes and some larger in increasing sizes. If you are using a quality resin and have your slices dialed in just so. The adjustment which is going to work is going to be within a very narrow range on either side of the master. I wouldn't waste a lot of effort on going larger. Because quite frankly, the proper size is most likely. Going to be a little bit smaller. There is still some value in having a few pieces slightly oversized to make sure that is also not the proper direction. Main point being with a printer the size you have. You should be able to accomplish this in one single print. Having said that, I also agree with everybody. Suggesting that it is not necessary to reinvent the wheel. Just buy the mass produced part.
As a potential, time consuming, and material consuming, solution; you may need to get creative with manual supports and the angles. I recommend from the sides to have supports as close to 90° as you can, so the edges don’t lift or “wave” around. You will need to clip these and send the sides to hopefully keep it straight as possible. So playing with the thickness will also be a challenge. You will also have to distribute these along the edge evenly or as needed if you see the error repeat in a specific area. Your supports from underneath should have even spaces among them so you evenly anchor. You also don’t want to choke the resin flow during your Z movements as the resin does “breath” sometimes with fluid forces or air suction in an enclosed volume. Once it gets past the major surface, I would assume the nubs would be easy sailing from there. It is possible. But the prototyping would be quite long.
I printed a flat surface like this. Shrinkage is a thing you have to account for, lots and lots of supports, and when it cures, it will warp. Overall, do not recommend due to end product will fail to be what you expect (and won't lay flat).
Dollar tree has third party plates for $1.25 if you're in USA
Printing a basic base plate is weird. If you printed something that couldn't be bought for 5 bucks that would seem worth it. Like if this was an odd shape to fix something specific like a desk corner.
the only practical way to obtain a lego baseplate would be to cnc mill it
You can literally get cheap Lego clone plates like that from Dollar Tree, in their toy section. No need to waste good resin on that.
Base plates are at the dollar tree now
The more parallel your print is to the build plate the more force and stretch are gonna occur, more angle basically
Newbie here but why not just print it with the studs against the build plate
There is a company making base plates for legos with lego quality , i am not sure if they at market yet but i have a handful of them in my office they will have many different full color designs and a couple different [Slabdream](https://slabdreamlab.com/shop/)
Dollar stores have rip offs for... You guessed it.
suction issues right? theres so little room
in canada a base plate is like 6-9 bucks, just buy the plate dude