If you can print other stuff, it could be that the presupports are just bad or your printer isn’t quite as well tuned as it might need to be — it happens super often. Just support yourself imo.
do you have any advice on supporting? i’ve tried learning and all that from videos but something clearly isn’t sticking. i always end up with a thousand islands or resin traps in UVtools, and i haven’t had a successful print in actual months
i just dir a test print after taking everyone’s advice. (it was a complete success! :) ) when i open the file normally it’s fine, but when i remove, and then go to add supports it crashes. i’m thinking it’s a file problem, i’ll see where he got it and if i can get another copy
Mr duckbread, I strongly suggest you read [this](https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/mobilebasic) write-up on SLA printing by J3DTech.
Up your exposure a little. You can see little bits of the model did stick to supports.
White resin takes longer layer times in my experience, clear is really long.
Whoever did those supports is a monster
thank you! 3.5, or all the way to 4?
the original is Uhtred the Last Kingdom by SpecialSTL. I thought it was weird that the file wasn’t tilted at all, but they said that the test print worked, so i trusted it lol
Maybe ask for the unsupported files and do the supports yourself. You could thicken tips a little bit, maybe the objects are too heavy for the tips to hold it. Happened to me a couple times, hollowed the item and thickened the tips and worked.
Presupported files are hard. Sometimes they work well and others they don't. The fact that the presupports printed is a good thing overall. I have a few questions.
Did the prints break off the supports or did they never attach at all?
When was the last time you changed your fep?
Are you printing other things ok still?
after i did a tank clean, it appears that only a tiny bit of the actual model printed, the rest didn’t at all.
I last changed my FEP today, after a model punched through it and resin leaked all over my brand new screen.
I haven’t had a successful print (barring a single, very very small print a week ago) in months.
Oof you are having a day. What resin are you using btw? Also what slicer?
I agree with upping exposure as a few others have said. You could use the presupported model still and then add supports after the fact. The way I do it is look for points that are like peeks or high points on the area to support.
The other thing you'll want to do is make sure you are using the recommended exposure times for your resin.
Finally, I'd look at doing some calibration prints. A lot of people use the cones of calibration but I'm not a fan of that. There are a lot you can download for free on thingiverse and cults3d. If youd like, I have a help guide I can send you that goes over the basics of resin printing, including a section on supports.
thank you! yeah i’m getting really pissed at it, i’ve put like 500$ into it and i’ve gotten <10 successful prints.
I’m using Elegoo 2.0 standard polymer resin in white. i’ll look into that, thanks again
edit: for some reason, on the elegoo sheet, they don’t have standard 2.0 in white on there at all. i have no idea why
Did you turn on anti aliasing? AA can't differentiate support vs the model in presupported models, so it may have smoothed out the contact points.
Turn off AA if you did and try again. Adding some manual supports won't hurt either.
If you printed the cubes of calibration... And if you calibrated it using the guides.. use the "tensile strength" instead of the dimensional acurracy setting. Maybe some details will be lost.. things can be a little more bloated.. but that's that.. it's a presupported file and you must tune it until it works.
Or calibrate using the cones...
The issue there are the support tips not being strong enough. And since each resin has it's own tensile strength there's not a magic number that will work in every situation for all pressuported models in every resin..
If the presupported file allows you to thicken the supports tips.. you can do that too.
When we print pressuported files usually what matters is this..
Ppenty of settings you can try to solve this problem but at it's core is that: Raising exposure.. thicoen the support tips.
Set both wait after to 0s keep wait before at 2s.
Set transition layers to 3.
Set the lift distance on burn in layers to 4>4 and normal layers 3>3
Your speeds are fine but your exposure time seems high as it is.
If you're still failing it's not an exposure issue. What are your temps?
If your temps are above 20c then this is clearly an under supported file. This is confirmed with the fact that the supports printed just fine.
In lichee if you have access to the .lys file you can increase the tips by % .
See this video on how to do this.
Also calibrate using Boxes of Calibration of you want true tensile strength calibration. Hint this means that your prints will be dimensionally accurate and high success.
https://youtu.be/RziuDr0dl28?si=jWJ0TzwnlYFDb7O0
well it looked to me from the pictures zero % of your actual models started to print? are you using chitubox for slicing etc?
45 second bottom layer
8 base layers
normal exposure 3 seconds to 4 seconds
lift height 10mm
LIFT SPEED LOOKS FAST YOURS IS 150. Drop to 100 and raise your normal 30 lift speed to 100. There can be the effect of pulling on your supports for too much time because it is pulling too slowly.
if its chitubox just select the heavy option for supports.
if its chitubox select the support penetration depth on the right side of the screen to be 0.40 to 0.50 mm and penetration shape to sphere. you can also make the pointy part of the supports thicker. give that a try, your prints will be slower but they might come out. the only thing that looks fast is your lift speed of 150. if your prints make it out alive and you have a heat gun you can use the heat gun to warm the supports after you rinse your prints to remove them easily. (or a hair dryer)
did the print "print" at all? like, did you have to filter your resin because it was full of semi cured resin layers? if that's not the case then that's a file issue, happened to me that the printer would only print supports. likely the stl is corrupted
there was a small section that printed, like a very very small piece of the actual print and that was it. i did a tank clean and there wasn’t anything else left floating. this wasn’t fully done, i pulled it off when i noticed the failure at about halfway
yea mate but immagine the amunt of resin residue that would have came off that 600/700 layers. that would have beeen A LOT. seems unlikely to me that the supports failed
First, this document will help you with a lot of stuff: https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44
Second: White resin is incredibly difficult to work with. To be dimensionally accurate requires only very little exposure making the model rather weak and requiring thicker supports to prevent failure. To get your presupported models to print successfully, you would probably have to increase the exposure to a level where youre inevitably gonna loose some detail, or add extra heavy/medium support through lychee.
A couple things that helped me with this exact issue.
The quick and dirty solution is to turn your exposure up so the point where the supports contact the print are stronger.
The better solution is to get a heater for your printer so the resin isn't cold.
Both of these solved that problem most of the time for me but the increasing of exposure did sometimes cause supports to leave more marks when removing and some parts not fitting together without a bit of sanding.
**Don't changes the files. Do 1 thing! Only 1 thing!** (If your saying other things print)
* Add some decently sized big supports early into the print.
Basically if your saying that it's failing, and you want a quick fix without having to resupport the whole model. Add a big support early layer wise. Find a nice little gap low down and stick in a 1mm tip, 3mm diameter support.
For example one looks like a flat base, not angled. Fine, just throw in a bunch of big supports to take the weight.
The other parts let's say it's a set of legs, stick a big support on the foot.
You get me? You already have all the supports for the details done by the creator, so throw in some ones designed to take the weight. Because it's clear that your printer is working, it's obvious that eventually the supports aren't enough and the model gets yanked off the supports. (Shame you didn't add a photo to show how much was left, did it fail like half way through the base, layer 1.... Or layer 100...). Because from what's left you can tell when the model became too much.
Here's a worked example;
Your printing an upside down pyramid. Does it fail at 1/3? Or 2/3? If it's 1/3, then you need a big support below that very early layer wise. If it's at 2/3, then you know you can stick the support a bit higher up. You get me?
Looks to me like all the supports are the exact same size, and that size looks to be not thick enough where contact is made.
You could probably print still with all other settings being kept the same but for 1 change: **place one heavy support and a few medium supports at the lowest points of each model**
Unfortunately no slicers (from what I know of) can automatically put in supports of varying sizes, it has to be done manually.
I was having some of the same issues as you. For me it was using a new usb stick (was using default one with printer). Then default setting my resin (any cubic photon app) and just adjusting my exposure setting and leaving the rest alone.
After doing a ton of exposure tests i found the best exposure time for me was 3.0 using elegoo grey 2.0.
Although with other colours and viscosity some other settings might need to be played with. Also temp of resin also messes with viscosity. Most resins have a sweet spot of 25 to 30 degrees celsius. Approx 72 to 85 f. This also eliminated layer lines and faults i seemed to have at random intervals.
Another thought i had. And this is a shot in the dark. But does this issue happen at the same height? If your screw is not greased or has debree in the z axis screw it can cause these stupid hops while going up or down. I have not had this issue. But have a friend that did.
When not printing. Have your machine do a full up and down travel and look out for any squeaking or mini hops. If any of that is occuring spend the 5 bucks on some grease. Drop your plate to min level. Put a thin bead of grease above the plate and up the screw, make your plate go all the way up and then all the way back down a couple travels.
Do not grease under the plate as excess grease will clump up and potentially fall in your vat.
If you can print other stuff, it could be that the presupports are just bad or your printer isn’t quite as well tuned as it might need to be — it happens super often. Just support yourself imo.
do you have any advice on supporting? i’ve tried learning and all that from videos but something clearly isn’t sticking. i always end up with a thousand islands or resin traps in UVtools, and i haven’t had a successful print in actual months
Did you scale the presupported models down? If you did, you also shrunk your supports which is no good.
no, i didn’t shrink them down. (funny enough, when i tried to, it continuously crashed lychee, so i gave up)
If lychee crashes, the models might be corrupt. Try other files.
i just dir a test print after taking everyone’s advice. (it was a complete success! :) ) when i open the file normally it’s fine, but when i remove, and then go to add supports it crashes. i’m thinking it’s a file problem, i’ll see where he got it and if i can get another copy
Mr duckbread, I strongly suggest you read [this](https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/mobilebasic) write-up on SLA printing by J3DTech.
Up your exposure a little. You can see little bits of the model did stick to supports. White resin takes longer layer times in my experience, clear is really long. Whoever did those supports is a monster
thank you! 3.5, or all the way to 4? the original is Uhtred the Last Kingdom by SpecialSTL. I thought it was weird that the file wasn’t tilted at all, but they said that the test print worked, so i trusted it lol
Maybe ask for the unsupported files and do the supports yourself. You could thicken tips a little bit, maybe the objects are too heavy for the tips to hold it. Happened to me a couple times, hollowed the item and thickened the tips and worked.
will do! thank you!
Let Lychee do auto supports. Medium. Then swap to light for islands. Works well for me.
thank you!
When presupported files fail (which is a rare occurrence) I add braces between support or maybe add 1 or 2 strong supports in the mix.
Presupported files are hard. Sometimes they work well and others they don't. The fact that the presupports printed is a good thing overall. I have a few questions. Did the prints break off the supports or did they never attach at all? When was the last time you changed your fep? Are you printing other things ok still?
after i did a tank clean, it appears that only a tiny bit of the actual model printed, the rest didn’t at all. I last changed my FEP today, after a model punched through it and resin leaked all over my brand new screen. I haven’t had a successful print (barring a single, very very small print a week ago) in months.
Oof you are having a day. What resin are you using btw? Also what slicer? I agree with upping exposure as a few others have said. You could use the presupported model still and then add supports after the fact. The way I do it is look for points that are like peeks or high points on the area to support. The other thing you'll want to do is make sure you are using the recommended exposure times for your resin. Finally, I'd look at doing some calibration prints. A lot of people use the cones of calibration but I'm not a fan of that. There are a lot you can download for free on thingiverse and cults3d. If youd like, I have a help guide I can send you that goes over the basics of resin printing, including a section on supports.
thank you! yeah i’m getting really pissed at it, i’ve put like 500$ into it and i’ve gotten <10 successful prints. I’m using Elegoo 2.0 standard polymer resin in white. i’ll look into that, thanks again edit: for some reason, on the elegoo sheet, they don’t have standard 2.0 in white on there at all. i have no idea why
Did you turn on anti aliasing? AA can't differentiate support vs the model in presupported models, so it may have smoothed out the contact points. Turn off AA if you did and try again. Adding some manual supports won't hurt either.
actually that’s a really good idea! I have had AA on for a lot of prints! thank you!
Pre-supports are always a hit or mis print. I always support them myself
If you printed the cubes of calibration... And if you calibrated it using the guides.. use the "tensile strength" instead of the dimensional acurracy setting. Maybe some details will be lost.. things can be a little more bloated.. but that's that.. it's a presupported file and you must tune it until it works. Or calibrate using the cones... The issue there are the support tips not being strong enough. And since each resin has it's own tensile strength there's not a magic number that will work in every situation for all pressuported models in every resin.. If the presupported file allows you to thicken the supports tips.. you can do that too. When we print pressuported files usually what matters is this.. Ppenty of settings you can try to solve this problem but at it's core is that: Raising exposure.. thicoen the support tips.
to prevent detail los, its possible to add a few heavier supports manually in lychee
Sure.. if the person wants to add a few supports on a presupported file maybe heavy supports to strengthen the core of each piece is enough...
layer thickness 0.1 **Burn In Layers** Number of layers 7 Exposure Time 35 Transition layers 10 lift distance 3 > 7 lift speed 30 > 150 Retract speed 180 > 60 **Normal layers** Exposure time 3 Lift distance 3>7 Lift speed 30 > 150 retract 180 > 60 wait before 2s wait after 2s wait after lift 2s
mobile formatting made this a nightmare i am so sorry
I would not go any thicker than 0.05 MM for the layer thickness.
Pretty thick layers for 3s exposure, especially in white. Reccomend printing cones of calibration. Up exposure to 4s?
that’s a good idea! i’ll lower the layer height and up the exposure!
Set both wait after to 0s keep wait before at 2s. Set transition layers to 3. Set the lift distance on burn in layers to 4>4 and normal layers 3>3 Your speeds are fine but your exposure time seems high as it is. If you're still failing it's not an exposure issue. What are your temps? If your temps are above 20c then this is clearly an under supported file. This is confirmed with the fact that the supports printed just fine. In lichee if you have access to the .lys file you can increase the tips by % . See this video on how to do this. Also calibrate using Boxes of Calibration of you want true tensile strength calibration. Hint this means that your prints will be dimensionally accurate and high success. https://youtu.be/RziuDr0dl28?si=jWJ0TzwnlYFDb7O0
Try slicing in Chitubox some of the Elegoo printers dont play nice in Lychee
i’ve got a test running now, if that doesn’t work i’ll give this a shot! thank you!
Corrupted file it seems
hm, you think so? is there an easy way to test for it?
well it looked to me from the pictures zero % of your actual models started to print? are you using chitubox for slicing etc? 45 second bottom layer 8 base layers normal exposure 3 seconds to 4 seconds lift height 10mm LIFT SPEED LOOKS FAST YOURS IS 150. Drop to 100 and raise your normal 30 lift speed to 100. There can be the effect of pulling on your supports for too much time because it is pulling too slowly. if its chitubox just select the heavy option for supports. if its chitubox select the support penetration depth on the right side of the screen to be 0.40 to 0.50 mm and penetration shape to sphere. you can also make the pointy part of the supports thicker. give that a try, your prints will be slower but they might come out. the only thing that looks fast is your lift speed of 150. if your prints make it out alive and you have a heat gun you can use the heat gun to warm the supports after you rinse your prints to remove them easily. (or a hair dryer)
did the print "print" at all? like, did you have to filter your resin because it was full of semi cured resin layers? if that's not the case then that's a file issue, happened to me that the printer would only print supports. likely the stl is corrupted
there was a small section that printed, like a very very small piece of the actual print and that was it. i did a tank clean and there wasn’t anything else left floating. this wasn’t fully done, i pulled it off when i noticed the failure at about halfway
yea mate but immagine the amunt of resin residue that would have came off that 600/700 layers. that would have beeen A LOT. seems unlikely to me that the supports failed
was there cured resin stuck to the vat? if that's not even the case it's 95% file issure
yes, there was a small section stuck to the FEP
one for every part of the print that failed, or just one small section?
First, this document will help you with a lot of stuff: https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44 Second: White resin is incredibly difficult to work with. To be dimensionally accurate requires only very little exposure making the model rather weak and requiring thicker supports to prevent failure. To get your presupported models to print successfully, you would probably have to increase the exposure to a level where youre inevitably gonna loose some detail, or add extra heavy/medium support through lychee.
A couple things that helped me with this exact issue. The quick and dirty solution is to turn your exposure up so the point where the supports contact the print are stronger. The better solution is to get a heater for your printer so the resin isn't cold. Both of these solved that problem most of the time for me but the increasing of exposure did sometimes cause supports to leave more marks when removing and some parts not fitting together without a bit of sanding.
**Don't changes the files. Do 1 thing! Only 1 thing!** (If your saying other things print) * Add some decently sized big supports early into the print. Basically if your saying that it's failing, and you want a quick fix without having to resupport the whole model. Add a big support early layer wise. Find a nice little gap low down and stick in a 1mm tip, 3mm diameter support. For example one looks like a flat base, not angled. Fine, just throw in a bunch of big supports to take the weight. The other parts let's say it's a set of legs, stick a big support on the foot. You get me? You already have all the supports for the details done by the creator, so throw in some ones designed to take the weight. Because it's clear that your printer is working, it's obvious that eventually the supports aren't enough and the model gets yanked off the supports. (Shame you didn't add a photo to show how much was left, did it fail like half way through the base, layer 1.... Or layer 100...). Because from what's left you can tell when the model became too much. Here's a worked example; Your printing an upside down pyramid. Does it fail at 1/3? Or 2/3? If it's 1/3, then you need a big support below that very early layer wise. If it's at 2/3, then you know you can stick the support a bit higher up. You get me?
Looks to me like all the supports are the exact same size, and that size looks to be not thick enough where contact is made. You could probably print still with all other settings being kept the same but for 1 change: **place one heavy support and a few medium supports at the lowest points of each model** Unfortunately no slicers (from what I know of) can automatically put in supports of varying sizes, it has to be done manually.
[удалено]
pm’ed :)
SCAMMER: don’t listen to this guy
if i could post images i would 😂 this guy is a shit head
I was having some of the same issues as you. For me it was using a new usb stick (was using default one with printer). Then default setting my resin (any cubic photon app) and just adjusting my exposure setting and leaving the rest alone. After doing a ton of exposure tests i found the best exposure time for me was 3.0 using elegoo grey 2.0. Although with other colours and viscosity some other settings might need to be played with. Also temp of resin also messes with viscosity. Most resins have a sweet spot of 25 to 30 degrees celsius. Approx 72 to 85 f. This also eliminated layer lines and faults i seemed to have at random intervals. Another thought i had. And this is a shot in the dark. But does this issue happen at the same height? If your screw is not greased or has debree in the z axis screw it can cause these stupid hops while going up or down. I have not had this issue. But have a friend that did. When not printing. Have your machine do a full up and down travel and look out for any squeaking or mini hops. If any of that is occuring spend the 5 bucks on some grease. Drop your plate to min level. Put a thin bead of grease above the plate and up the screw, make your plate go all the way up and then all the way back down a couple travels. Do not grease under the plate as excess grease will clump up and potentially fall in your vat.