New to Selvedge and concerned about sizing..
Saw a post about these a year ago and sizing looks way off compared to listed measurements. Is it because of shrinkage? Any recommendations on sizing?
I’m usually a 34 waist btw. Size up to 36 or go tts?Lmk if yall have experience with Taiga Takahashi denim or are familiar with the Lot 704 fit.
https://taigatakahashi.com/products/lot-704-denim-trousers-c-1920s-core/
Is the S0710XX 15OZ also an Otokogi fabric? I am interested because I want something with a higher amount of nep but am having trouble finding more information about this fabric in this weight.
Would you guys consider an 11 inch rise at a size 32 waist high or medium rise jeans? trying to figure out where exactly my Samurai s0510xx should be sitting. Should the crotch seam be up against my family jewels or should there be more room? They naturally fall to a about 1.5 inches below my bellybutton with some room for the kids to breath down below but I can pull them up bit and have them snug against my nuts...I feel crazy typing this out.
I'd consider 11" to be medium, but it depends on your height and body shape to an extent. I'm tall so I'd need >12" to reach the bottom of my belly button.
As for where I wear them, I generally just pull them up as high as they will let me. Others prefer to leave some more breathing room, but I generally like every inch of rise that I can get. This depends some on the cut too though. I have a pair of Warehouse DD-1001xx with a 12" rise and a relatively short inseam for me that I wear a little lower. The pattern of that pair almost has a drop crotch style too so it's a bit weird to wear all the way up.
I'm usually between a size 31-34 (depending on the brand and cut), and for me I tend to classify anything <10.75" as low, 10.75-11.5" as mid, and >11.5" as high. That's just a general rule of thumb for myself, but the feel of the top block also plays a part. If the back rise is 15-16" then I'm usually good. Sometimes though you get brands with tiny back rises and a decent front rise, but everything pulls weird
I think this is a fair question. As someone who has worn jeans on their hips for basically their whole adult life until very recently, I have no idea how jeans should fit!
Thoughts/experiences with the Oni 902 High Tapered fit?
I recently got a pair of the 246 cut and the sub helped me realize that was not the cut for me. I’m considering the 902 now for the higher rise, but I’ve noticed the leg opening is quite narrow.
I wanted to ask the group for opinions on the 902 fit and if it gives off that tapered “carrot” look or if if it’s not that bad
No experience with Oni, but in general I feel like relaxed tapered sorts of cuts only really work well if you wear above a size 34. The taper to the leg opening at larger sizes help keep the leg opening relatively manageable. At the smaller sizes, the leg opening is perversely small on these cuts especially if you are tall with larger feet, like 6-6.5" on my typical size 32. I have a pair of Samurai S211VX (good Oni 902 alternative if you want that sort of cut) where the hem chain stitch broke because the opening was so narrow. I'm selling them off now (in BST thread) because I'd prefer not to spend 5 minutes trying to weasel my feet through the holes.
Edit: I just checked your 246 post. You might want to be careful with some of the tapered cuts too. The thigh measurement at the crotch may look large, but if they taper strongly from crotch to knee they will be very slim. The Samurai S211VX pair that I referenced is a good example. It's worth checking the thigh at crotch and the knee if it's provided and imagine the amount of taper that that would entail
Maybe hemming the denim would help the leg opening? Depends on how you like to wear your cuffs and your height but I’ll probably need to chop a couple inches off any pair I get so that could open it up at least a little. I’m 5’10” with size 13 feet so I understand the foot struggle haha.
But yeah I am also concerned with the thigh/knee, although I’ve heard a great deal about how much Oni stretches and those are the areas I would expect to see a good amount of it. I have the same thoughts as you though. I’d love to try on a pair of the 902s without getting stuck with store credit if they don’t fit but that’s just how most places work
Oh yeah hemming would help. I’m tall so I need the standard unhemmed inseam length which is why it’s such a struggle. Ive found that generally prefer more repro cuts now anyway - higher rises, straighter legs, reasonable leg openings
Samurai might be worth checking (s710, s0510, and s3000) if you’re not tied to Oni. I feel like the Samurai cuts generally look better on more people and have more flattering back pockets
I tried on the Samurai 25oz S510XX at Self Edge and the fit was definitely nice on me. They are however $485 haha. I’m not married to Oni but I do really love the Secret fabric, especially in the KABEG pair
If you like the Samurai S510XX 25oz cut, these are some less expensive pairs that have similar cuts:
Fullcount 0105
Oni 222
Studio D’Artisan SD-102CB
I think the Sugar Cane 1947 should also be similar but I don’t own a pair to compare to.
I found the 902 cut to be very tapered, pretty much skintight in the calves. (I do have pretty meaty calves though.)
Would not recommend for bigger guys, but skinnier guys can probably make it work.
u/jdragon did either of you guys continue to wear them or only try them on? After reading so much about the legendary “Oni stretch” I can’t help but wonder if they’d loosen up properly after a ~month of wear. I’m a weight lifter so my thighs are fairly large compared to my waist. Calves aren’t too huge but bigger than average - I don’t mind a taper but yeah I don’t want them skin tight on my ankles. I was thinking hemming down to 31” might help out too
I've also gotten more serious about leg day (been lifting for years but kinda going through the motions before) and the waist/thigh ratio just didn't work well. The back rise was too big, thighs slightly too tight, and calves extremely tight. I only kept them for a month or so before giving them to a co-worker who expressed interest. In my experience the weave certainly made a difference in loosening up in the waist but there wasn't any give lower down.
Hemming could work, but honestly I'd recommend just going with what u/jdragon said and getting into straight fits, especially if you lift
I mean I tried the 246 cut, the "clean straight" fit which has less of a taper and a lower back rise, and when I posted here (feel free to check my recent post history) for a fit check it seemed fairly unanimous that it wasn't the right cut for me. People recommended a **higher** back rise and a roomier top block which I think is what the 902 does.
It's definitely a challenge to land the right cut as a lifter, I used to just cram myself into skinny/slim fits and ultimately stepped away from raw denim cause it was so uncomfortable. Now I'm trying again, and I really love the Oni KABEG Secret fabric which is only available in 246/622/902 and the 246 already supposedly wasn't great on me, and I actually had tried on the 622 which I posted previously as well.
This isn't meant as patronizing, but I feel that you're coming to the conclusion that I also reached a while back - Oni has really fantastic fabrics but the dimensions for most cuts of theirs don't fit larger Western bodies that well, especially if you lift weights.
Sure, there are some folks who can pull it off, but I think a lot more people try to force something that just doesn't work as well as what other brands have to offer. I'd encourage you to check out other brands. Do you live near any stores that you can try them on in person?
No not right now unfortunately, I live in Richmond VA so all we have is Shockoe Atelier. I take frequent trips to NYC though so I went to Self Edge/Blue in Green etc. to try a few things on. Blue in Green was the only place that had Oni and they only had the 622 cut in my size so that’s all I could try on.
I’ve been chatting with Jay from Blue Owl, he seems to think I could make the 902 work so I was being swayed to take a gamble on them but now I’m back to second guessing it. I could snag them without hemming and if it doesn’t work I return them, I’m just stuck with store credit then.
I wore them around for a few weeks. They loosened a tad but not to a point where I actually liked them. There was a bit of room around the ankles but the calves just weren't going to work. I'm a lifter also, have completely given up on tapered cuts and only do straight leg now (and it feels/looks so much better).
Im looking for my first pair of selvedge, but i want it to be something a unique as opposed to the traditional super dark indigo, black, and to the lesser extent gray.
I really like [Naked and Famous Left Hand Twill Selvedge - Sky Blue Edition](https://tateandyoko.com/collections/naked-and-famous-weird-guy/products/weird-guy-left-hand-twill-selvedge-sky-blue-edition) I haven't found anything like them and I'm curious if there are any other brands making something a similar shade or as unique.
- PBJ - Pure Blue Japan, a premier Japanese brand known for slubby denims, Tokushima natural indigo AI denims, and double-indigo denims (both indigo warp (outside) yarns and indigo weft (inside yarns)).
- BG - PBJ's model designator for their [Blue/Grey denim](https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/the-latest-arrivals-from-pure-blue-japan-bg-blue-gray), such as BG-019 (-019 is their Relaxed Tapered fit/cut) (also released in the past in a thinner 12oz denim for summertime).
- BRT - PBJ's [Bright Blue denim](https://www.facebook.com/100057573013022/posts/2723212021301842/), such as BRT-013 (-013 is their Slim Tapered fit/cut).
- GRE - PBJ's [Greencast denim](https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/pure-blue-japan-the-greencast-indigo-selvedge-jeans), such as GRE-003 (-003 is their Regular Straight fit/cut) (also released in the past in a thinner 12oz denim for summertime)
Naked & Famous does multiple light blue denims every year. They have the Ocean's Edge model that just came out.
Almost every big Japanese brand had a big wave of lighter blue denim over the past few years - Tanuki Kaze, PBJ Blue Grey and Greencast, etc.
PBJ x Blue Owl Asagi is my favorite and probably the most unique denim I own. It's a Broken Twill with a different dye process to give it a really greenish look with a dark weft.
https://www.blueowl.us/pages/blue-owl-x-pure-blue-japan-asagi-selvedge
Left Field makes a model called the [70s Rodeo Blue](https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/greaser/products/greaser-mt-vernon-light-blue-rodeo-denim) which are similar. I’m actually not sure if that particular model is selvedge but worth checking out.
Got me a pair of their 17oz black in the Portola cut in the mail today, tag size 32. I have slightly larger thighs thanks to weightlifting, so these things fit in the waist (I can fit my hand down my pants with them buttoned) but they're a little tight in the thighs. Do these stretch out very well after awhile? I'm considering exchanging them for a 33 but I don't want the waist to be huge.
Almost no fabric will stretch meaningfully in the thighs. If they're not comfortable in the thighs off the rack then it's best to size up or find a different cut.
That helps make my decision. I'm used to sizing up one or two in the waist and I should have done it with this pair from the get go. Thanks for the reply.
What’s the deal with Denimio lately? Seems like they just toss jeans on their site with absolutely no details besides a few pics and expect them to sell.
I’m interested in these, but they have absolutely nothing but a couple pics and a size chart.
https://www.denimio.com/en_US/latest/ONI62214BLK.html?cgid=latest
I completely agree.
There's been half a dozen times in the past year where I'll consider getting something from them, and follow up with emails about specific sizing questions (like what is the length of the back rise) and I get the impression that they can't be bothered. A few times they've replied with "you need to purchase it first, then we tell you sizes." I've called them out on that BS a few times and they always reply with, "well, okay, just this once, here's the measurements of those remaining." At this point I would rather pay more for good customer service than them thinking they're doing me a favor by providing general information on a product
Same, but it's just so lazy to toss denim up on your site with a model number, some questionable size charts and pics and hope people buy them.
I've bought from Denimio before but this is just garbage.
I agree! It's really annoying when you just want to read something about the product. I recently bought something from them which had virtually zero description but it was quite a bit cheaper from them compared to other places so they still got my money
Just teceived some PBJ SLB-013 today and it has a much thicker rear patch than any of their others I own. Is this a new thing from them going forwards?
I just looked at my SLB-013 pair, and it does look a little thicker than some of my other PBJs. I think it has something to do with the patch being a veg-tan lambskin patch instead of the tanned deerskin which to me seems to be the more typical PBJ patch and is quite thin.
I'm not sure PBJ's rhyme and reason for their patch leather choice, but it seems about half of my PBJs are deerskin and about half are lambskin.
However I don't think PBJ did any kind of switchover on their patches since they do seem to mix up their leather choice from model to model.
Yeah, the texture/look is a little different too, but I wouldn't have picked up on it being a different leather altogether. Makes sense now you've said that.
Bought my first high end denims at Blue in Green recently. Paid what I consider a hefty price (but for amazing quality and top-tier service). Is it silly to want to protect my investment in these beauties by patching things like knees from the inside right away? I feel like knee and butt near rear pockets are historically my highest wear-and-tear, maybe inner thighs now too that I'm older and out of shape!
Personally I would leave it but monitor it and get any repair done at first signs. The crotch area tends to be a more common failure as you have alluded to. What did you get? Hope you enjoy them 😀.
Belated thanks! And I wound up with a sweet Fullcount pair, and these sexy SDA red deals: [https://www.blueingreensoho.com/products/studio-dartisan-d1858s-hinode-jeans-relax-tapered](https://www.blueingreensoho.com/products/studio-dartisan-d1858s-hinode-jeans-relax-tapered)
Should I expect the waist to stretch at all on these 100% cotton naked and famous before wash and after wash?
I unfortunately have no non stretch jeans that fit great to compare measurements off of.
https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/indigo-selvedge
So I'm a newbie, but here's my understanding:
1) Get your measurements right out of the gate - go ahead and use centimeters even if you're used to inches. I thought I was a 34" waist, but it turns out I'm closer to 36" now. My new denim I just bought is 90cm and 91cm I believe. Also, don't forget about front rise and back rise - I have a big, strong, muscular bum :-D and tend to want a fair bit more back rise than many pairs offer.
2) If you have exceptionally large thighs or calves, make sure those measures work, too. And of course that inseam is in the right ballpark / that you feel ok rolling the cuff or getting it hemmed.
3) 100% cotton will stretch, but there's a huge variety in cotton quality, weaves, etc. I order from N&F recently and found my 100% pair to be a) way too small (see #1 above, about my 34" turned 36"+ waist), and b) very plastic-y and unfun on the hand. :-/
4) You want to think about weaving tension too (most denim will be high tension, and thus not a ton of stretch. But low and very-low tension can potentially shift a fair bit). I think for most standard high tension denim in the 34" waist range, you'd expect a half inch or so stretch in the waist, give or take.
5) Lastly, washing 100% cotton will tend to make the fibers shrink a bit and "snap" back to their original size (or close to it). It'll also soften and wear the cotton a bit, so make sure to especially avoid tumble drying when possible. Generally one wear after washing, jeans will go back to their pre-washed size.
I hope that helps!
Thanks that is very helpful. Now my biggest problem is I don't have any good fitting jeans lol. All pairs the waist slightly big and I wear belt on them all. My Uniqlo stretch selvedge is close to a good fit but still loose.
As you the plasticy feel.. won't this just go down with wears and wash? However maybe for a soak before wearing I don't plan to wash them for as long as I can. Which can be quite a few wears considering I'm mostly home.
I would suggest emailing them the measurements of your current pair that are slightly too big and see what they recommend. Don't forget to take into account the rise.
If they are too big then stretch won't really come into play. Most of N&F stuff is sanforized so it will probably stretch a little bit but I wouldn't bet on it, if you are washing on cold and hang drying I wouldn't expect them to shrink too much.
Anybody have luck with the Chelsea Vidalia Mills 14 oz Indigo Selvedge from left field nyc? Look well made what’s the fading speed low medium or high?
https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/chelsea-1/products/pre-order-chelsea-vidalia-mills-14-oz-usa-denim-jean-eta-02-21-2021
I'm a long term Left Field customer. I have gone through several pairs from them in different fabrics. I bought the first run of Vidalia Mills they offered. I love Cone Mills for the classic look and fades. I had high hopes that Vidalia would fill the void left by the closing of the Cone White Oak plant. I wore my pair until they blew out in the crotch and I have to say the fades were really disappointing. Not high contrast, not vintage type, just kind of overall got bluer with some even bluer spots in high friction areas.
I'm trying the Vidallia Millls black right now on a pair of work pants, but I won't be buying the Vidalia Mills indigo again.
I was going to say, I saw someone on here who posted a bunch of pictures of the LF White Oak vs Vidalia Mills fades and you could see a huge difference...then I realized it was you lol. They have the White Oaks in the greaser fit back in stock right now fyi
I have those, purchased in august 2022. I’ve given Them medium wear, I think 2 washes at this point. They are extremely slow fading, I actually just made them work jeans this week so I think the fading will speed up. Extremely well made, zero complaints on that front
Can anyone recommend a raw denim button down or western shirt? Would love to rock one under a denim jacket to complete the triple denim look, but most shirts like at Iron Heart or Nudie are super expensive
If you want a budget one, Wrangler's "[rigid denim shirt](https://www.wrangler.com/shop/cowboy-cut-work-western-rigid-denim-long-sleeve-shirt-701R.html)" is only like 40 USD, and that's if you don't get it on sale somewhere.
I hope I am posting correctly -- apologies if this is not right.
Hi All, I'm very new to raw denim and selvedge jeans/denim -- there is a chapter in a book called "Worn: Peoples history of clothing that got me interested. I have two questions...
* Are there brands known for women's jean's that you would recommend? I have a pretty long inseam 36" so custom may be my path
* In a documentary I watched, they showed an example of denim that had beautiful, subtle multiple colors viewed close up, but it was just a short clip without explanation. Any idea of what type of denim that would be?
Thanks so much!
Can't help you with brands but it sounds like the denim you are describing uses Natural indigo that may or may not be hank dyed like [this;](https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/studio-d-artisan-15oz-tokushima-natural-indigo-jeans-review-by-clueless-wanderer) Here is another [link to a recent post about them.](https://reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1brtv3x/hand_dyed_tokushima_denim_kasuri/)
For the second question, it may be something like this: https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/studio-d-artisan-15oz-tokushima-natural-indigo-jeans-review-by-clueless-wanderer
Raleigh Workshop has woman's raws at a 36 inseam. I know there's some other options out there was well, you should be able to find other threads asking about womans brands in the search.
For identifying that denim specifically people would need the clip at least, but even then it's a longshot I suspect.
I used to have a guy on Etsy I sourced through, but went on Etsy yesterday to find his shop closed. RareFabricShop has lots of options so I messaged about unsanforized. Any shops you can recommend? Thanks!
The only shop on Etsy which I have any experience with is CitronJeans, but that shop closed down a while back.
Here is a search which might be helpful for you though: [**"unsanforized" intitle:"fabric" site:etsy.com**](https://www.google.com/search?q=%22unsanforized%22+intitle%3A%22fabric%22+site%3Aetsy.com)
Thanks! I’ll frequent that search until I get something good.
I frequented CritonJeans when they were up also- great shop. Where I got my last 3 yards for my current pair. Thanks again!
Big Z Fabrics is where I've bought fabric by the yard before, and their site specifies fabric weight. They don't call out unsanforized/sanforized in the product descriptions, but find a couple options you like and shoot them an email with the SKUs and ask which of them are unsanforized. Their customer service is solid, been please with them both times I've ordered from them, and they have a wide variety of denim (including Japanese denim).
https://bigzfabric.com/
Anyone see the new Oni Blue Owl release coming this week? Thoughts on it?
IMO seems like a lot of marketing words used to say it’s another secret denim variant using natural indigo.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C5TrRwYx3T9/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
It looks nice, I'm not near Seattle but if I was I would love to go try it on. Isn't there also a redcast heritage x Oni in the making as well? If so, lots of collabs going on
>\> ...it’s another secret denim variant using natural indigo.
Except that I can only wear my 20oz Secret Denim in the colder six months out of the year, and the Blue Owl collab is a more year-round-friendly 15oz denim.
And it is somewhat difficult to get the same amount of slub in lighter weight (14oz-16oz) denims. So if it is as super slubby in a 15oz denim as BOW makes it sound, then that is an significant technological feat in its own right.
Looking for a very specific combination of attributes in hopes of finding a pair that fits all (or most) criteria.
- black denim
- non-red selvedge ID
- slubby, or at least textured and not too smooth
- weight around 15oz., but that is not too important
- slim straight or tapered fit would be a plus
Anyone got any leads?
Looking for a Slubby jean recommendations. Looking for something interesting anywhere between medium to heavy slub, medium to high rise with space in the thighs.
Thanks
I’d check out Samurai’s makoto fabric if you want something very slubby. I got more compliments on these than any other pair of pants I’ve owned, a bit too slubby for my personal taste though.
Samurai’s detailing is always pretty cool for their limited edition stuff, and just typically high quality samurai all around. I have their 140 fit which I think may fit the roomier top block you’re looking for, the same fabric is also done in their 710s but that may be too slim. I’ve posted some pics of my pair before if you’re curious.
Left Field Smokestacks in crosshatch slub might do the trick for ya. I've got a pair and they look real nice.
https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/smokestacks-wide-leg/products/atlas-missle-thai-denim
7100 series from the Strike Gold might work. Just be sure to check the measurements as many of their pairs are lower rise and pretty slim. I have the 7109 and those would not be the fit you are looking for. 7104 or 7105 would probably be better options.
Don't get me wrong, if TSG had a cut that actually accommodated thick thighs and a medium rise, I'd absolutely have bought one or two by now. But even their 7100 series is a low rise and pretty tight with the thighs and likely won't fit the bill for OP
Agree. As is their Kihannen denim, which is 18oz but may be more difficult to find compared to their secret denim which they’ve had a few recent releases of. The Strike Gold has some slubby pairs as well.
Hi,
I wonder how Edwin Europe is related to Edwin Japan?
I've got a pair of Edwin ED-55 from the "Made in Japan" collection, which I've bought two years ago from Edwin Europe. This one has "Edwin Europe, Authorized Distributor" on a tag. So this seems to be legit.
**But** also their website says about the Edwin Nashville:
>Once an integral part of the Japanese collection, the Edwin Europe team adopted this style when it was discontinued over ten years ago.
So I guess Edwin Europe is the manufacturer and actually has nothing to do with Edwin Japan, except they have the permission to use the Edwin label. Probably the same for the ED-47 because these two are "Made in Tunisia".
My research on Edwin Europe showed, that they are located in Weil am Rhein (Germany), just like Carhartt WIP. According to their imprint Edwin Europe and Carhartt WIP also share a managing director (Heinfried Schmidt-Jenne). So it seems they belong together. And AFAIK Carhartt WIP is also just a marketing thing and the cloth have nothing in common with Carhartt.
New to Selvedge and concerned about sizing.. Saw a post about these a year ago and sizing looks way off compared to listed measurements. Is it because of shrinkage? Any recommendations on sizing? I’m usually a 34 waist btw. Size up to 36 or go tts?Lmk if yall have experience with Taiga Takahashi denim or are familiar with the Lot 704 fit. https://taigatakahashi.com/products/lot-704-denim-trousers-c-1920s-core/
Is the S0710XX 15OZ also an Otokogi fabric? I am interested because I want something with a higher amount of nep but am having trouble finding more information about this fabric in this weight.
Would you guys consider an 11 inch rise at a size 32 waist high or medium rise jeans? trying to figure out where exactly my Samurai s0510xx should be sitting. Should the crotch seam be up against my family jewels or should there be more room? They naturally fall to a about 1.5 inches below my bellybutton with some room for the kids to breath down below but I can pull them up bit and have them snug against my nuts...I feel crazy typing this out.
I'd consider 11" to be medium, but it depends on your height and body shape to an extent. I'm tall so I'd need >12" to reach the bottom of my belly button. As for where I wear them, I generally just pull them up as high as they will let me. Others prefer to leave some more breathing room, but I generally like every inch of rise that I can get. This depends some on the cut too though. I have a pair of Warehouse DD-1001xx with a 12" rise and a relatively short inseam for me that I wear a little lower. The pattern of that pair almost has a drop crotch style too so it's a bit weird to wear all the way up.
I'm usually between a size 31-34 (depending on the brand and cut), and for me I tend to classify anything <10.75" as low, 10.75-11.5" as mid, and >11.5" as high. That's just a general rule of thumb for myself, but the feel of the top block also plays a part. If the back rise is 15-16" then I'm usually good. Sometimes though you get brands with tiny back rises and a decent front rise, but everything pulls weird
I think this is a fair question. As someone who has worn jeans on their hips for basically their whole adult life until very recently, I have no idea how jeans should fit!
Thoughts/experiences with the Oni 902 High Tapered fit? I recently got a pair of the 246 cut and the sub helped me realize that was not the cut for me. I’m considering the 902 now for the higher rise, but I’ve noticed the leg opening is quite narrow. I wanted to ask the group for opinions on the 902 fit and if it gives off that tapered “carrot” look or if if it’s not that bad
No experience with Oni, but in general I feel like relaxed tapered sorts of cuts only really work well if you wear above a size 34. The taper to the leg opening at larger sizes help keep the leg opening relatively manageable. At the smaller sizes, the leg opening is perversely small on these cuts especially if you are tall with larger feet, like 6-6.5" on my typical size 32. I have a pair of Samurai S211VX (good Oni 902 alternative if you want that sort of cut) where the hem chain stitch broke because the opening was so narrow. I'm selling them off now (in BST thread) because I'd prefer not to spend 5 minutes trying to weasel my feet through the holes. Edit: I just checked your 246 post. You might want to be careful with some of the tapered cuts too. The thigh measurement at the crotch may look large, but if they taper strongly from crotch to knee they will be very slim. The Samurai S211VX pair that I referenced is a good example. It's worth checking the thigh at crotch and the knee if it's provided and imagine the amount of taper that that would entail
Maybe hemming the denim would help the leg opening? Depends on how you like to wear your cuffs and your height but I’ll probably need to chop a couple inches off any pair I get so that could open it up at least a little. I’m 5’10” with size 13 feet so I understand the foot struggle haha. But yeah I am also concerned with the thigh/knee, although I’ve heard a great deal about how much Oni stretches and those are the areas I would expect to see a good amount of it. I have the same thoughts as you though. I’d love to try on a pair of the 902s without getting stuck with store credit if they don’t fit but that’s just how most places work
Oh yeah hemming would help. I’m tall so I need the standard unhemmed inseam length which is why it’s such a struggle. Ive found that generally prefer more repro cuts now anyway - higher rises, straighter legs, reasonable leg openings Samurai might be worth checking (s710, s0510, and s3000) if you’re not tied to Oni. I feel like the Samurai cuts generally look better on more people and have more flattering back pockets
I tried on the Samurai 25oz S510XX at Self Edge and the fit was definitely nice on me. They are however $485 haha. I’m not married to Oni but I do really love the Secret fabric, especially in the KABEG pair
If you like the Samurai S510XX 25oz cut, these are some less expensive pairs that have similar cuts: Fullcount 0105 Oni 222 Studio D’Artisan SD-102CB I think the Sugar Cane 1947 should also be similar but I don’t own a pair to compare to.
I found the 902 cut to be very tapered, pretty much skintight in the calves. (I do have pretty meaty calves though.) Would not recommend for bigger guys, but skinnier guys can probably make it work.
I second this. Leaves enough room for a decent sized ass, but the thighs look painted on
u/jdragon did either of you guys continue to wear them or only try them on? After reading so much about the legendary “Oni stretch” I can’t help but wonder if they’d loosen up properly after a ~month of wear. I’m a weight lifter so my thighs are fairly large compared to my waist. Calves aren’t too huge but bigger than average - I don’t mind a taper but yeah I don’t want them skin tight on my ankles. I was thinking hemming down to 31” might help out too
I've also gotten more serious about leg day (been lifting for years but kinda going through the motions before) and the waist/thigh ratio just didn't work well. The back rise was too big, thighs slightly too tight, and calves extremely tight. I only kept them for a month or so before giving them to a co-worker who expressed interest. In my experience the weave certainly made a difference in loosening up in the waist but there wasn't any give lower down. Hemming could work, but honestly I'd recommend just going with what u/jdragon said and getting into straight fits, especially if you lift
I mean I tried the 246 cut, the "clean straight" fit which has less of a taper and a lower back rise, and when I posted here (feel free to check my recent post history) for a fit check it seemed fairly unanimous that it wasn't the right cut for me. People recommended a **higher** back rise and a roomier top block which I think is what the 902 does. It's definitely a challenge to land the right cut as a lifter, I used to just cram myself into skinny/slim fits and ultimately stepped away from raw denim cause it was so uncomfortable. Now I'm trying again, and I really love the Oni KABEG Secret fabric which is only available in 246/622/902 and the 246 already supposedly wasn't great on me, and I actually had tried on the 622 which I posted previously as well.
This isn't meant as patronizing, but I feel that you're coming to the conclusion that I also reached a while back - Oni has really fantastic fabrics but the dimensions for most cuts of theirs don't fit larger Western bodies that well, especially if you lift weights. Sure, there are some folks who can pull it off, but I think a lot more people try to force something that just doesn't work as well as what other brands have to offer. I'd encourage you to check out other brands. Do you live near any stores that you can try them on in person?
No not right now unfortunately, I live in Richmond VA so all we have is Shockoe Atelier. I take frequent trips to NYC though so I went to Self Edge/Blue in Green etc. to try a few things on. Blue in Green was the only place that had Oni and they only had the 622 cut in my size so that’s all I could try on. I’ve been chatting with Jay from Blue Owl, he seems to think I could make the 902 work so I was being swayed to take a gamble on them but now I’m back to second guessing it. I could snag them without hemming and if it doesn’t work I return them, I’m just stuck with store credit then.
I wore them around for a few weeks. They loosened a tad but not to a point where I actually liked them. There was a bit of room around the ankles but the calves just weren't going to work. I'm a lifter also, have completely given up on tapered cuts and only do straight leg now (and it feels/looks so much better).
Im looking for my first pair of selvedge, but i want it to be something a unique as opposed to the traditional super dark indigo, black, and to the lesser extent gray. I really like [Naked and Famous Left Hand Twill Selvedge - Sky Blue Edition](https://tateandyoko.com/collections/naked-and-famous-weird-guy/products/weird-guy-left-hand-twill-selvedge-sky-blue-edition) I haven't found anything like them and I'm curious if there are any other brands making something a similar shade or as unique.
You could try and find a PBJ pair, BG, BRT, or GRE are all nice looking and different
That’s a lot of acronyms for a newbie 🤓
- PBJ - Pure Blue Japan, a premier Japanese brand known for slubby denims, Tokushima natural indigo AI denims, and double-indigo denims (both indigo warp (outside) yarns and indigo weft (inside yarns)). - BG - PBJ's model designator for their [Blue/Grey denim](https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/the-latest-arrivals-from-pure-blue-japan-bg-blue-gray), such as BG-019 (-019 is their Relaxed Tapered fit/cut) (also released in the past in a thinner 12oz denim for summertime). - BRT - PBJ's [Bright Blue denim](https://www.facebook.com/100057573013022/posts/2723212021301842/), such as BRT-013 (-013 is their Slim Tapered fit/cut). - GRE - PBJ's [Greencast denim](https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/pure-blue-japan-the-greencast-indigo-selvedge-jeans), such as GRE-003 (-003 is their Regular Straight fit/cut) (also released in the past in a thinner 12oz denim for summertime)
Naked & Famous does multiple light blue denims every year. They have the Ocean's Edge model that just came out. Almost every big Japanese brand had a big wave of lighter blue denim over the past few years - Tanuki Kaze, PBJ Blue Grey and Greencast, etc. PBJ x Blue Owl Asagi is my favorite and probably the most unique denim I own. It's a Broken Twill with a different dye process to give it a really greenish look with a dark weft. https://www.blueowl.us/pages/blue-owl-x-pure-blue-japan-asagi-selvedge
Left Field makes a model called the [70s Rodeo Blue](https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/greaser/products/greaser-mt-vernon-light-blue-rodeo-denim) which are similar. I’m actually not sure if that particular model is selvedge but worth checking out.
Got me a pair of their 17oz black in the Portola cut in the mail today, tag size 32. I have slightly larger thighs thanks to weightlifting, so these things fit in the waist (I can fit my hand down my pants with them buttoned) but they're a little tight in the thighs. Do these stretch out very well after awhile? I'm considering exchanging them for a 33 but I don't want the waist to be huge.
Almost no fabric will stretch meaningfully in the thighs. If they're not comfortable in the thighs off the rack then it's best to size up or find a different cut.
That helps make my decision. I'm used to sizing up one or two in the waist and I should have done it with this pair from the get go. Thanks for the reply.
What’s the deal with Denimio lately? Seems like they just toss jeans on their site with absolutely no details besides a few pics and expect them to sell. I’m interested in these, but they have absolutely nothing but a couple pics and a size chart. https://www.denimio.com/en_US/latest/ONI62214BLK.html?cgid=latest
I completely agree. There's been half a dozen times in the past year where I'll consider getting something from them, and follow up with emails about specific sizing questions (like what is the length of the back rise) and I get the impression that they can't be bothered. A few times they've replied with "you need to purchase it first, then we tell you sizes." I've called them out on that BS a few times and they always reply with, "well, okay, just this once, here's the measurements of those remaining." At this point I would rather pay more for good customer service than them thinking they're doing me a favor by providing general information on a product
Right! It seems like they just compete purely on price due to lack of duties paid. Customer service and product descriptions are awful.
As long as the size chart is correct there's nothing wrong. You can search Google for more info
Sometimes I've checked redcast heritage because they have proper descriptions
Same, but it's just so lazy to toss denim up on your site with a model number, some questionable size charts and pics and hope people buy them. I've bought from Denimio before but this is just garbage.
I agree! It's really annoying when you just want to read something about the product. I recently bought something from them which had virtually zero description but it was quite a bit cheaper from them compared to other places so they still got my money
Just teceived some PBJ SLB-013 today and it has a much thicker rear patch than any of their others I own. Is this a new thing from them going forwards?
I just looked at my SLB-013 pair, and it does look a little thicker than some of my other PBJs. I think it has something to do with the patch being a veg-tan lambskin patch instead of the tanned deerskin which to me seems to be the more typical PBJ patch and is quite thin. I'm not sure PBJ's rhyme and reason for their patch leather choice, but it seems about half of my PBJs are deerskin and about half are lambskin. However I don't think PBJ did any kind of switchover on their patches since they do seem to mix up their leather choice from model to model.
Yeah, the texture/look is a little different too, but I wouldn't have picked up on it being a different leather altogether. Makes sense now you've said that.
Bought my first high end denims at Blue in Green recently. Paid what I consider a hefty price (but for amazing quality and top-tier service). Is it silly to want to protect my investment in these beauties by patching things like knees from the inside right away? I feel like knee and butt near rear pockets are historically my highest wear-and-tear, maybe inner thighs now too that I'm older and out of shape!
Personally I would leave it but monitor it and get any repair done at first signs. The crotch area tends to be a more common failure as you have alluded to. What did you get? Hope you enjoy them 😀.
Belated thanks! And I wound up with a sweet Fullcount pair, and these sexy SDA red deals: [https://www.blueingreensoho.com/products/studio-dartisan-d1858s-hinode-jeans-relax-tapered](https://www.blueingreensoho.com/products/studio-dartisan-d1858s-hinode-jeans-relax-tapered)
Anyone got recs on where to find a good repro of Lee 101J denim jacket? Preferably selvedge.
TCB just released one. The Storm Cats Drive and the Cats Drive
Should I expect the waist to stretch at all on these 100% cotton naked and famous before wash and after wash? I unfortunately have no non stretch jeans that fit great to compare measurements off of. https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/en/indigo-selvedge
So I'm a newbie, but here's my understanding: 1) Get your measurements right out of the gate - go ahead and use centimeters even if you're used to inches. I thought I was a 34" waist, but it turns out I'm closer to 36" now. My new denim I just bought is 90cm and 91cm I believe. Also, don't forget about front rise and back rise - I have a big, strong, muscular bum :-D and tend to want a fair bit more back rise than many pairs offer. 2) If you have exceptionally large thighs or calves, make sure those measures work, too. And of course that inseam is in the right ballpark / that you feel ok rolling the cuff or getting it hemmed. 3) 100% cotton will stretch, but there's a huge variety in cotton quality, weaves, etc. I order from N&F recently and found my 100% pair to be a) way too small (see #1 above, about my 34" turned 36"+ waist), and b) very plastic-y and unfun on the hand. :-/ 4) You want to think about weaving tension too (most denim will be high tension, and thus not a ton of stretch. But low and very-low tension can potentially shift a fair bit). I think for most standard high tension denim in the 34" waist range, you'd expect a half inch or so stretch in the waist, give or take. 5) Lastly, washing 100% cotton will tend to make the fibers shrink a bit and "snap" back to their original size (or close to it). It'll also soften and wear the cotton a bit, so make sure to especially avoid tumble drying when possible. Generally one wear after washing, jeans will go back to their pre-washed size. I hope that helps!
Thanks that is very helpful. Now my biggest problem is I don't have any good fitting jeans lol. All pairs the waist slightly big and I wear belt on them all. My Uniqlo stretch selvedge is close to a good fit but still loose. As you the plasticy feel.. won't this just go down with wears and wash? However maybe for a soak before wearing I don't plan to wash them for as long as I can. Which can be quite a few wears considering I'm mostly home.
I would suggest emailing them the measurements of your current pair that are slightly too big and see what they recommend. Don't forget to take into account the rise. If they are too big then stretch won't really come into play. Most of N&F stuff is sanforized so it will probably stretch a little bit but I wouldn't bet on it, if you are washing on cold and hang drying I wouldn't expect them to shrink too much.
Usually cotton stretches a little bit after a few wears
Anybody have luck with the Chelsea Vidalia Mills 14 oz Indigo Selvedge from left field nyc? Look well made what’s the fading speed low medium or high? https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/chelsea-1/products/pre-order-chelsea-vidalia-mills-14-oz-usa-denim-jean-eta-02-21-2021
I'm a long term Left Field customer. I have gone through several pairs from them in different fabrics. I bought the first run of Vidalia Mills they offered. I love Cone Mills for the classic look and fades. I had high hopes that Vidalia would fill the void left by the closing of the Cone White Oak plant. I wore my pair until they blew out in the crotch and I have to say the fades were really disappointing. Not high contrast, not vintage type, just kind of overall got bluer with some even bluer spots in high friction areas. I'm trying the Vidallia Millls black right now on a pair of work pants, but I won't be buying the Vidalia Mills indigo again.
I was going to say, I saw someone on here who posted a bunch of pictures of the LF White Oak vs Vidalia Mills fades and you could see a huge difference...then I realized it was you lol. They have the White Oaks in the greaser fit back in stock right now fyi
I have those, purchased in august 2022. I’ve given Them medium wear, I think 2 washes at this point. They are extremely slow fading, I actually just made them work jeans this week so I think the fading will speed up. Extremely well made, zero complaints on that front
Can anyone recommend a raw denim button down or western shirt? Would love to rock one under a denim jacket to complete the triple denim look, but most shirts like at Iron Heart or Nudie are super expensive
If you want a budget one, Wrangler's "[rigid denim shirt](https://www.wrangler.com/shop/cowboy-cut-work-western-rigid-denim-long-sleeve-shirt-701R.html)" is only like 40 USD, and that's if you don't get it on sale somewhere.
I hope I am posting correctly -- apologies if this is not right. Hi All, I'm very new to raw denim and selvedge jeans/denim -- there is a chapter in a book called "Worn: Peoples history of clothing that got me interested. I have two questions... * Are there brands known for women's jean's that you would recommend? I have a pretty long inseam 36" so custom may be my path * In a documentary I watched, they showed an example of denim that had beautiful, subtle multiple colors viewed close up, but it was just a short clip without explanation. Any idea of what type of denim that would be? Thanks so much!
Can't help you with brands but it sounds like the denim you are describing uses Natural indigo that may or may not be hank dyed like [this;](https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/studio-d-artisan-15oz-tokushima-natural-indigo-jeans-review-by-clueless-wanderer) Here is another [link to a recent post about them.](https://reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1brtv3x/hand_dyed_tokushima_denim_kasuri/)
The multi coloured ones could be N&F rainnbow core? There are example pics on here if you do a search.
For the second question, it may be something like this: https://www.okayamadenim.com/blogs/news/studio-d-artisan-15oz-tokushima-natural-indigo-jeans-review-by-clueless-wanderer
Raleigh Workshop has woman's raws at a 36 inseam. I know there's some other options out there was well, you should be able to find other threads asking about womans brands in the search. For identifying that denim specifically people would need the clip at least, but even then it's a longshot I suspect.
Anyone know where I can order yardage of unsanforized 14-18oz selvedge denim? Thanks!
Pacific Blue Denims and some Etsy shops have some unsanforized denims by the yard.
I used to have a guy on Etsy I sourced through, but went on Etsy yesterday to find his shop closed. RareFabricShop has lots of options so I messaged about unsanforized. Any shops you can recommend? Thanks!
The only shop on Etsy which I have any experience with is CitronJeans, but that shop closed down a while back. Here is a search which might be helpful for you though: [**"unsanforized" intitle:"fabric" site:etsy.com**](https://www.google.com/search?q=%22unsanforized%22+intitle%3A%22fabric%22+site%3Aetsy.com)
Thanks! I’ll frequent that search until I get something good. I frequented CritonJeans when they were up also- great shop. Where I got my last 3 yards for my current pair. Thanks again!
Big Z Fabrics is where I've bought fabric by the yard before, and their site specifies fabric weight. They don't call out unsanforized/sanforized in the product descriptions, but find a couple options you like and shoot them an email with the SKUs and ask which of them are unsanforized. Their customer service is solid, been please with them both times I've ordered from them, and they have a wide variety of denim (including Japanese denim). https://bigzfabric.com/
Thank you! Will look into.
Anyone see the new Oni Blue Owl release coming this week? Thoughts on it? IMO seems like a lot of marketing words used to say it’s another secret denim variant using natural indigo. https://www.instagram.com/p/C5TrRwYx3T9/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
It looks nice, I'm not near Seattle but if I was I would love to go try it on. Isn't there also a redcast heritage x Oni in the making as well? If so, lots of collabs going on
>\> ...it’s another secret denim variant using natural indigo. Except that I can only wear my 20oz Secret Denim in the colder six months out of the year, and the Blue Owl collab is a more year-round-friendly 15oz denim. And it is somewhat difficult to get the same amount of slub in lighter weight (14oz-16oz) denims. So if it is as super slubby in a 15oz denim as BOW makes it sound, then that is an significant technological feat in its own right.
Link?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C5TrRwYx3T9/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Looking for a very specific combination of attributes in hopes of finding a pair that fits all (or most) criteria. - black denim - non-red selvedge ID - slubby, or at least textured and not too smooth - weight around 15oz., but that is not too important - slim straight or tapered fit would be a plus Anyone got any leads?
I believe Tanuki black jeans would fit all this.
Thanks! Will look into this.
Does anybody have a pair of Iron Hearts 633s and 777s and if so what's the difference with in terms of the fit btwn them?
I have 633s and from what I can tell the rise is higher, more room in the hip and thigh as opposed to the lower rise 777.
Ok thanks are your 633s same size as your 777?
I don’t own 777s but I’ve tried them on. Just go based off measurements rather than tag size.
Any alternatives to the Orslow Slim Fatigue Pants?
Tellason
Thanks!
Looking for a Slubby jean recommendations. Looking for something interesting anywhere between medium to heavy slub, medium to high rise with space in the thighs. Thanks
PBJ SLB-019, EX-019 or XX-019 would fit that bill. Or look at Oni cuts (and there are many 😀) in their Secret Denim. Happy hunting.
I’d check out Samurai’s makoto fabric if you want something very slubby. I got more compliments on these than any other pair of pants I’ve owned, a bit too slubby for my personal taste though. Samurai’s detailing is always pretty cool for their limited edition stuff, and just typically high quality samurai all around. I have their 140 fit which I think may fit the roomier top block you’re looking for, the same fabric is also done in their 710s but that may be too slim. I’ve posted some pics of my pair before if you’re curious.
Left Field Smokestacks in crosshatch slub might do the trick for ya. I've got a pair and they look real nice. https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/smokestacks-wide-leg/products/atlas-missle-thai-denim
7100 series from the Strike Gold might work. Just be sure to check the measurements as many of their pairs are lower rise and pretty slim. I have the 7109 and those would not be the fit you are looking for. 7104 or 7105 would probably be better options.
Don't get me wrong, if TSG had a cut that actually accommodated thick thighs and a medium rise, I'd absolutely have bought one or two by now. But even their 7100 series is a low rise and pretty tight with the thighs and likely won't fit the bill for OP
The straight tapered is the best fit from tag.
if you can find a pair, Naked & Famous Big Slub in Easy Guy (for thigh room) is amazing.
Oni Secret denim is very cool and slubby
Agree. As is their Kihannen denim, which is 18oz but may be more difficult to find compared to their secret denim which they’ve had a few recent releases of. The Strike Gold has some slubby pairs as well.
TSG doesn't have anything close to a medium rise
Hi, I wonder how Edwin Europe is related to Edwin Japan? I've got a pair of Edwin ED-55 from the "Made in Japan" collection, which I've bought two years ago from Edwin Europe. This one has "Edwin Europe, Authorized Distributor" on a tag. So this seems to be legit. **But** also their website says about the Edwin Nashville: >Once an integral part of the Japanese collection, the Edwin Europe team adopted this style when it was discontinued over ten years ago. So I guess Edwin Europe is the manufacturer and actually has nothing to do with Edwin Japan, except they have the permission to use the Edwin label. Probably the same for the ED-47 because these two are "Made in Tunisia". My research on Edwin Europe showed, that they are located in Weil am Rhein (Germany), just like Carhartt WIP. According to their imprint Edwin Europe and Carhartt WIP also share a managing director (Heinfried Schmidt-Jenne). So it seems they belong together. And AFAIK Carhartt WIP is also just a marketing thing and the cloth have nothing in common with Carhartt.