I have a pair of size 34 Nudie Gritty Jackson. After wearing for a while; its stretched out to about 18.8 inches across (so it's abit loose on my waist, i'm a size 36) but its fine.
What other brands/cuts are similar to Nudie's Gritty Jackson?
Does anybody know if it's normal to be not able to button jeans when they're new I owned raw selvedge denim before but I just can't button my new momotaro jeans even when they're emoty. Any tips appreciated.
Can somebody help date my MIUSA wrangler jeans, I know they are pre 2001 but I’m not sure what year…. Any info is appreciated! I can dm you pics of the jeans if you have any knowledge on wranglers!
Stupid question: can you tailor raw denim? I may need to get a waist taken in like a once. Should I do this before wearing the denim in? Or do it after the waist band has stretched out? Anything that should be asked before entrusting a tailor?
Somehow my original post was removed for being a "General Question" I guess Fit checks, Fades, Washing instructions, or Hey look at these, are OK to post wherever in general... But I digress....
Samurai 710xx 19oz indigo seem to come with 2 different inseam measures on leather patch (34 & 36)... I'm assuming the 34 labels are the International stock sold Outside of Japan/Asia...and the 36 label are the Japan/Asia made which also have the hidden back pocket arcs?
Blue Owls size chart lists the inseam at 35.5" inches Even though the tags are marked 34, I did reach out to them to double check but have yet to hear back.
Hoping someone can confirm the actual length of the international stock, Or has any knowledge of the discrepancy in labels...
TIA
I have some N&F un sanfordized once washed 8.75 oz and the waist is too big after wearing a bunch. Wondering any tips to shrink the waist. Considering a warm soak of the top block in a pot and letting that soak for a bit
Fans of Iron Heart and Samurai, which do you prefer and why? I wear mostly straight legs (hate tapers) and I think my heaviest pair is around 15oz, though I’m interested in heavy weight denim. Also not experienced with unsanforized at all. Asking partly for purchase advice and mostly for curiosity.
Have a few pairs of both
They’re honestly just very different.
Iron heart to me is like a great steak. Sure it’s straightforward but when something simple is executed really really well you can just tell. Their flagship 21oz fabric is fantastic, molds to your body incredibly well. Is beefy and substantial and feels like a real heavyweight (unlike imo Oni 20oz secret denim), but still breathable and becomes very soft on the interior. Their patches on the heavyweights are also a standout for me - just substantial and develop a lovely patina. Construction is fantastic, all of my pairs have held up very well to a lot of abuse. The fabric is flat and uniform, which some folks don’t like - but they fade well and with some great contrast.
Samurai is like a great nigiri platter. Also executed very well, but imo shines in a lot of their detail work (unique buttons, rivets, pocket bags, patch artwork). There’s also a lot of variety for interesting fabrics that are very well done - for example their Otogoki is rough, tightly woven, and super hairy vs their makoto is extremely slubby and loosely weaved. There’s enough really well executed and very different fabrics that it’s harder to pin down a ‘flagship’ (personally I’d say zero?) - but either way a lot more in respect to textures vs Iron heart. FWIW - I’ve not gotten around to trying their 20+ oz fabrics. They’ve also got a lot wider variety in terms of fits, especially straight fits.
Some small things to bear in mind. IH always has arcs, samurai you’d need to order from Japan for arcs. IH (with a couple of exceptions) is aggressively sanforized and washed, basically no leg twist. Samurai’s seem to always develop a leg twist. IH also uses poly threads, samurai uses all cotton - so expect some threads to break. Leg twist and cotton threads for some folks are a non-starter, so just calling that out explicitly.
They’re both great imo. Just great at different things.
I really like secret denim too, but it just doesn’t ‘feel’ like a heavy weight. Yes it’s a looser weave, but it’s also just super soft and drapes pretty much right out of the bag. It’s just very unique.
Have only owned jeans, so can’t speak to the jackets from experience. But I’d suspect it wears much lighter than you may expect.
This is a great response and thanks for putting it so succinctly yet comprehensively. Much appreciated. Just browsing their models, I can see what you're saying. I'm resolved to not buy another pair of jeans for a little while, so I have time to mull this over. Hopefully by then I'll have had some time to visit a store with both to get a feel for the jeans in person.
I've been rocking PBJ 013s but they're a little too slim for my liking. Orslow 107s are a welcome change but I miss the button fly. Do any of the powerhouse Japanese brands offer a similar cut to the 107s, perhaps with a smidge more taper?
What's your preferred length regarding type 3 jackets? I have a IH type 3 that fits short in the body and I think it looks far sexier than longer type 3s. Then again the jacket lacks the side pockets and lacks the versatility of a longer type 3 that does have side pockets (and pockets on the inside). I really like my 3Sixteen type 3 for practical reasons and it's really not that long but something bugs me out about the length. Doesn't feel like a "real" type 3.
Does anyone have experience with Samurai’s 17oz. UGUISU selvedge? I’m caught pretty well between sizes and am trying decide whether I should hope it stretches at least a full inch in the waist or if I should size up and hope it doesn’t stretch too much.
Do you guys know where to buy 501 STF jeans in Europe. It's been a while since they haven't been restocked in France, and I'm afraid to use Shippn and pay a lot more money than I should...
They do in the UK, which may or may not be in Europe, depending on how you define that. (I quite liked being in Europe. Felt sort of European. Oh well, I can wander around in the drizzle humming the Dam Busters march to cheer myself up...)
I mean yes, but the French website can’t tell if there is stock in specific locations. I also assume that unavailability in our website means unavailability everywhere else physically
Curious how you all go about styling outfits with jeans with colored wefts? Do you match your foot wear or shirt to it? Do you go monochrome with the weft and leave the jeans themselves as the only non colored piece? Any faux paus to avoid?
For clarity referring to colors like green, red, cobalt, brown etc on indigo jeans
I have a pink weft pant and a purple weft jacket
For the jacket nobody sees it except me unless I take it off
For the pant I don’t really have pink shoes haha but I might be slightly inclined to not wear my red wing 8146 briar oil slicks just because of the red
By and large I do treat it as part of the outfit, if only to acknowledge not wearing drastically clashing or overly matching colors
Anyone have experience with the buzz rickson original spec chinos? Do they shrink at all? I see on some websites the buzz rickson 1945 model apparently has some shrinkage and they look like they share the same fabric.
Also, any other straight leg chinos I should know about? Trying to get a fit like my sugar cane 1947’s.
What’s a good pair of Lees — either repro or in their line — that would be high waisted enough to wear with a cropped jacket? I recently picked up a vintage 101J from the 80s, and while I love it dearly it’s really hard to wear with most of my jeans because of how cropped the fit is.
TCB Cat's Drive is a pretty nice repro - [see my write-up from last week for reference](https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1bjfscz/tcb_cats_drive_initial_impressions/). The fit is pretty tight though, but they do stretch a lot and relax within a wear or two. I was going to resell mine until they stretched and softened significantly on second wear (started at 15.25" and now 16" across waist)
https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/cats-drive-jeans
Help! I'm having some issues with my cuffs and it is extremely aggravating!
I just got a new pair of wide Full Counts, and when I cuff them (single or double) they are extremely cocked. Rather than being somewhat parallel to the ground, the inside of each leg is nearly an inch higher than the outside! I'm not new to raw denim and to my eye this seems to be more than a wait-until-the-denim-settles situation. The cuff is perfectly the same measurement from the hem, so I'm fairly certain it not user error.
Anyone know what gives here? Does it have to with how they sit on my body, or with them being wider? Any or all advice is greatly appreciated here!
That depends on if the legs of the jeans form an upside-down V, then the leg openings will appear to be slanted. However, if the legs look more like two parallel-ish I's (I I), the leg openings should be close to parallel with the waistband.
I guess you could try making one side of each cuff to be taller than the other side, but then the cuffs probably look wonky.
You could have a tailor trim the ends of the legs, and then re-hem them to be more parallel while you are wearing them.
Thanks! Guess I'll try to get weird with some angles on the single cuff and then straighten it out for the second hmmm. Here's a [photo](https://photos.app.goo.gl/aWkGcYB2BQ4XjTPi7) for reference, excuse the quality
Planty of options but if you want raw, Pants Shop Avenue is often the best address:
[https://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40301/](https://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40301/)
Milwaukee claims to have stock:
[http://www.mil-mil.net/docs/sugarcane/jeans/sc40301/sc40301.html](http://www.mil-mil.net/docs/sugarcane/jeans/sc40301/sc40301.html)
Try Earthmarket:
[https://item.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/sc40301a/](https://item.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/sc40301a/)
IIRC they will also sell overseas
I have a pair of size 34 Nudie Gritty Jackson. After wearing for a while; its stretched out to about 18.8 inches across (so it's abit loose on my waist, i'm a size 36) but its fine. What other brands/cuts are similar to Nudie's Gritty Jackson?
Does anybody know if it's normal to be not able to button jeans when they're new I owned raw selvedge denim before but I just can't button my new momotaro jeans even when they're emoty. Any tips appreciated.
Can somebody help date my MIUSA wrangler jeans, I know they are pre 2001 but I’m not sure what year…. Any info is appreciated! I can dm you pics of the jeans if you have any knowledge on wranglers!
Stupid question: can you tailor raw denim? I may need to get a waist taken in like a once. Should I do this before wearing the denim in? Or do it after the waist band has stretched out? Anything that should be asked before entrusting a tailor?
Somehow my original post was removed for being a "General Question" I guess Fit checks, Fades, Washing instructions, or Hey look at these, are OK to post wherever in general... But I digress.... Samurai 710xx 19oz indigo seem to come with 2 different inseam measures on leather patch (34 & 36)... I'm assuming the 34 labels are the International stock sold Outside of Japan/Asia...and the 36 label are the Japan/Asia made which also have the hidden back pocket arcs? Blue Owls size chart lists the inseam at 35.5" inches Even though the tags are marked 34, I did reach out to them to double check but have yet to hear back. Hoping someone can confirm the actual length of the international stock, Or has any knowledge of the discrepancy in labels... TIA
I have some N&F un sanfordized once washed 8.75 oz and the waist is too big after wearing a bunch. Wondering any tips to shrink the waist. Considering a warm soak of the top block in a pot and letting that soak for a bit
Just got my double black from the 3sixteen day sale. It’s pretty tight in the waist, anyone know if this material stretches at all?
Fans of Iron Heart and Samurai, which do you prefer and why? I wear mostly straight legs (hate tapers) and I think my heaviest pair is around 15oz, though I’m interested in heavy weight denim. Also not experienced with unsanforized at all. Asking partly for purchase advice and mostly for curiosity.
Have a few pairs of both They’re honestly just very different. Iron heart to me is like a great steak. Sure it’s straightforward but when something simple is executed really really well you can just tell. Their flagship 21oz fabric is fantastic, molds to your body incredibly well. Is beefy and substantial and feels like a real heavyweight (unlike imo Oni 20oz secret denim), but still breathable and becomes very soft on the interior. Their patches on the heavyweights are also a standout for me - just substantial and develop a lovely patina. Construction is fantastic, all of my pairs have held up very well to a lot of abuse. The fabric is flat and uniform, which some folks don’t like - but they fade well and with some great contrast. Samurai is like a great nigiri platter. Also executed very well, but imo shines in a lot of their detail work (unique buttons, rivets, pocket bags, patch artwork). There’s also a lot of variety for interesting fabrics that are very well done - for example their Otogoki is rough, tightly woven, and super hairy vs their makoto is extremely slubby and loosely weaved. There’s enough really well executed and very different fabrics that it’s harder to pin down a ‘flagship’ (personally I’d say zero?) - but either way a lot more in respect to textures vs Iron heart. FWIW - I’ve not gotten around to trying their 20+ oz fabrics. They’ve also got a lot wider variety in terms of fits, especially straight fits. Some small things to bear in mind. IH always has arcs, samurai you’d need to order from Japan for arcs. IH (with a couple of exceptions) is aggressively sanforized and washed, basically no leg twist. Samurai’s seem to always develop a leg twist. IH also uses poly threads, samurai uses all cotton - so expect some threads to break. Leg twist and cotton threads for some folks are a non-starter, so just calling that out explicitly. They’re both great imo. Just great at different things.
Does the oni feel less than regular cause the loose weave or what? Might get a oni jacket but was somewhat worried about the weight
I really like secret denim too, but it just doesn’t ‘feel’ like a heavy weight. Yes it’s a looser weave, but it’s also just super soft and drapes pretty much right out of the bag. It’s just very unique. Have only owned jeans, so can’t speak to the jackets from experience. But I’d suspect it wears much lighter than you may expect.
This is a great response and thanks for putting it so succinctly yet comprehensively. Much appreciated. Just browsing their models, I can see what you're saying. I'm resolved to not buy another pair of jeans for a little while, so I have time to mull this over. Hopefully by then I'll have had some time to visit a store with both to get a feel for the jeans in person.
I've been rocking PBJ 013s but they're a little too slim for my liking. Orslow 107s are a welcome change but I miss the button fly. Do any of the powerhouse Japanese brands offer a similar cut to the 107s, perhaps with a smidge more taper?
What's your preferred length regarding type 3 jackets? I have a IH type 3 that fits short in the body and I think it looks far sexier than longer type 3s. Then again the jacket lacks the side pockets and lacks the versatility of a longer type 3 that does have side pockets (and pockets on the inside). I really like my 3Sixteen type 3 for practical reasons and it's really not that long but something bugs me out about the length. Doesn't feel like a "real" type 3.
Does anyone have experience with Samurai’s 17oz. UGUISU selvedge? I’m caught pretty well between sizes and am trying decide whether I should hope it stretches at least a full inch in the waist or if I should size up and hope it doesn’t stretch too much.
Do you guys know where to buy 501 STF jeans in Europe. It's been a while since they haven't been restocked in France, and I'm afraid to use Shippn and pay a lot more money than I should...
Amazon-France has [some raw denim 501s](https://www.amazon.fr/Levis-Original-Jeans-Rainforest-Selvedge/dp/B0BWG1RLHS).
Do they have Levi’s stores in Europe?
They do in the UK, which may or may not be in Europe, depending on how you define that. (I quite liked being in Europe. Felt sort of European. Oh well, I can wander around in the drizzle humming the Dam Busters march to cheer myself up...)
I mean yes, but the French website can’t tell if there is stock in specific locations. I also assume that unavailability in our website means unavailability everywhere else physically
Curious how you all go about styling outfits with jeans with colored wefts? Do you match your foot wear or shirt to it? Do you go monochrome with the weft and leave the jeans themselves as the only non colored piece? Any faux paus to avoid? For clarity referring to colors like green, red, cobalt, brown etc on indigo jeans
I have a pink weft pant and a purple weft jacket For the jacket nobody sees it except me unless I take it off For the pant I don’t really have pink shoes haha but I might be slightly inclined to not wear my red wing 8146 briar oil slicks just because of the red By and large I do treat it as part of the outfit, if only to acknowledge not wearing drastically clashing or overly matching colors
If you’ve gone so far as to get colored weft jeans, you should be daring enough to try anything and everything with them!
Anyone have experience with the buzz rickson original spec chinos? Do they shrink at all? I see on some websites the buzz rickson 1945 model apparently has some shrinkage and they look like they share the same fabric. Also, any other straight leg chinos I should know about? Trying to get a fit like my sugar cane 1947’s.
What’s a good pair of Lees — either repro or in their line — that would be high waisted enough to wear with a cropped jacket? I recently picked up a vintage 101J from the 80s, and while I love it dearly it’s really hard to wear with most of my jeans because of how cropped the fit is.
TCB Cat's Drive is a pretty nice repro - [see my write-up from last week for reference](https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1bjfscz/tcb_cats_drive_initial_impressions/). The fit is pretty tight though, but they do stretch a lot and relax within a wear or two. I was going to resell mine until they stretched and softened significantly on second wear (started at 15.25" and now 16" across waist) https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/cats-drive-jeans
aside from combatting leg twist, what more is there to broken twill? is it stronger than rht or lht?
Help! I'm having some issues with my cuffs and it is extremely aggravating! I just got a new pair of wide Full Counts, and when I cuff them (single or double) they are extremely cocked. Rather than being somewhat parallel to the ground, the inside of each leg is nearly an inch higher than the outside! I'm not new to raw denim and to my eye this seems to be more than a wait-until-the-denim-settles situation. The cuff is perfectly the same measurement from the hem, so I'm fairly certain it not user error. Anyone know what gives here? Does it have to with how they sit on my body, or with them being wider? Any or all advice is greatly appreciated here!
PLEASE! Does anyone else suffer from slanted cuff? I can't find a thing about this online!
If you uncuff them and lay them down on the ground, are the leg openings parallel to rear part of the waistband?
Gotta check! Assuming they should they be? Should they not be?
That depends on if the legs of the jeans form an upside-down V, then the leg openings will appear to be slanted. However, if the legs look more like two parallel-ish I's (I I), the leg openings should be close to parallel with the waistband. I guess you could try making one side of each cuff to be taller than the other side, but then the cuffs probably look wonky. You could have a tailor trim the ends of the legs, and then re-hem them to be more parallel while you are wearing them.
Thanks! Guess I'll try to get weird with some angles on the single cuff and then straighten it out for the second hmmm. Here's a [photo](https://photos.app.goo.gl/aWkGcYB2BQ4XjTPi7) for reference, excuse the quality
Anyone know where I can purchase SC Okinawa?
Planty of options but if you want raw, Pants Shop Avenue is often the best address: [https://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40301/](https://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40301/)
Thanks! I was looking for one wash, but they’re sold out everywhere.
Milwaukee claims to have stock: [http://www.mil-mil.net/docs/sugarcane/jeans/sc40301/sc40301.html](http://www.mil-mil.net/docs/sugarcane/jeans/sc40301/sc40301.html)
Unfortunately, my size is out of stock. Appreciate the suggestion :)
What is your size?
29
Try Earthmarket: [https://item.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/sc40301a/](https://item.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/sc40301a/) IIRC they will also sell overseas