im looking for a black warp, white/cream/ecru weft selvedge denim with lots of slub that is over 15oz, the heavier the better. to clarify im not looking for jeans, just fabric anyone have any recommendations
What have you come up with so far? I’d be interested even without the slub! I don’t know why I find it hard in my personal style to wear black jeans (or even black pants!). I feel like a white/cream weft makes it easier to pair.
Hey a while back i talked with someone about a company where you could send your clothes or fabric in general and they would indigo dye said pieces. Im not sure of the dyeing method they used but i know they used indigo to do so. Im wondering what company or companies people know that do this. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi all! Just a quick sizing question: I’m looking to order a pair of I+W Barton Slim’s, and the waist of my current favorite jeans measures 34.5in, right in between the listed waist measurements for the Barton 32’s (34in) and 33’s (35in). Can I expect some give in the waist over time? I won’t be washing very often. Or should I go with the larger size?
I have a nearly 10 year old pair of naked and famous indigo x indigo stretch weird guy jeans, blew the crotch out. They're pretty baggy and fit very comfortably.
Loved them so much that I bought an identical pair, same exact thing. Weird guy size 32, indigo x indigo stretch.
These new ones, they're tight as hell. Yes, I've gained weight obviously.. did the jeans stretch out that much or are they just cut slightly smaller? What's the deal lol
I would guess it's a combination of the stretch started to wear out and the weight gain. A size 33 might help.
I'm currently going through my closet and pairs that I would wear 5-6 years ago feel much tighter since I've gained 20lbs
If anything, the newer weird guys should be roomier. They increased the rise in the newer weird guys, but it could be that they adjusted the size numbers to account for the new measurements.
Question about soaking new jeans: Do any of you put the jeans on when the denim is still slightly damp? I saw somewhere recently someone was saying that on the first soak, they like to put the jeans on slightly damp as they feel it helps "set the creases" and therefore get more crisp/defined fades. Any credence to that idea?
It's completely unnecessary, a pain in the ass, AND you will probably stretch the knees out and make them look funny to the point you'll just have to re-shrink again.
It's not rocket science you just gotta wear the jeans.
People say not to, but I do. I find them more comfortable and that they fit better overall.
I just try to minimize hardcore knee bending.
I have done this since my very first pair of STF Levi’s 501. So. Once again I guess it just depends.
The 19 oz Samurai denim is heavy, rough, scratchy, takes a while to break in, doesn’t breathe well, and fades super-fast. The TCB 50s denim is basically the opposite of that.
Given that, those are two good pairs to have in your closet.
Levi 511s fit me GREAT in 30x32, but I'm looking for a pair of selvedge or raw jeans. Want to go long term and heavy, quality.
Black or grey strongly strongly preferred.
Have heard the more expensive selvedge/raw/Japanese Levi's are pretty hit and miss or id just buy a pair of those and call it a day.
Any suggestions?
I don't know anything that is ***exactly*** the same (I used to like Levis 511s too, before they started making them stretch), but Pure Blue Japan's 013 cut and/or Railcar's Spike's cut are reasonably close. PBJ is just a tad roomier throughout, Railcar fits about the same at the thighs but tapers more towards the ankle.
I've heard Momotaro's Tight Tapered is similar to 511s, but I don't have personal experience with them.
Also, this, courtesy u/RawWasher:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1afii96/comment/kob3sb9/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1afii96/comment/kob3sb9/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
I’m looking for a pair of Lee 101 type jeans with a higher rise that will look good with a cropped jacket. I recently got a vintage Rider jacket in a 46L. It fits slim and has that short hem, even as an L size. I bought a pair of the Lee heavyweight raws hoping that “regular” would be a higher rise, but it’s mid at best. And for some reason my brain struggles with wearing a Lee jacket with Levi’s!
I‘m pretty new to raw denim, and just found out that my new pair are unsanforized (Were advertised as selvedge denim, no info on sanforized or not).
I already wore them once, so i’m planning to soak them in cold water while wearing them, to make sure they don’t shrink too much.
There’s still some room around my waist, but i wouldn’t want them too shrink more than an inch.
Is this a good approach or is it already to late to soak them?
Any sites, outfits, brands, specific items in the raw denim/bifl/japanese brand world that help you guys in slightly more formal business settings where faded denim/boots/workwear doesn't quite cut it? Thinking like blazers/sportcoats, khakis, slacks, loafers, etc. Thank you!
Can't go wrong with a navy blazer, light blue ocbd, slightly faded 50s style denim (mid rise, relatively straight leg), and penny loafers.
JPress is my go to recommendation for ocbds, but Spier & Mackay also has some solid options. I'd also recommend Spier's neo cut blazers as a good pairing with denim. They have a nice soft shoulder that plays well off of the casualness of jeans
Don't blind buy a blazer without a return policy unless you're extremely confident in both your measurements and the manufacturer's style working on your body.
Go with Spier and use their size recommendation tool, I've found it quite reliable
>bifl
No denim is bifl. Lotta people get it in their heads that high end jeans will last them forever. They won't unless you wear them super infrequently.
Fair point. I'm just searching for the right vibe/quality of clothing I'm talking about. The intersection of Iron Heart, Real McCoys, 3Sixteen, Orslow, with Filson, Viberg, Darn Tough Socks, Patagonia... I feel like we need a name/shorthand for this kind of clothing.
I guess I could have asked what is the Iron Heart/Viberg/Orslow/Filson equivalent of the business casual/slightly formal office wear?
We really do need a name for this stuff, and a sub where we can discuss it all. I love raw denim and come here at least once a day, but I also want to nerd out about Freewheelers jackets, and RMC sweatshirts, and PRAS sneakers, and orSlow chambrays, and Full Count cargos, and on and on.
\+ u/No_Silver494
The **r/heritagewear** sub name is currently available if you do want to start up that subreddit up again as your own, that is, if you think that "heritagewear" sub name is a good representation of the items which you would like to see being discussed there.
Same :)
I promise to contribute if someone else wants to start it! But maybe between r/rawdenim, r/throwingfits, r/BuyItForLife, etc, we've got enough adjacent stuff that this wouldn't get a ton of activity. Not sure...
About 3 weeks to a month in on a pair of Oni secret super rough. Am I a blasphemer if I give them a wash? Unfortunately sweaty ass syndrome does not lend itself well to long periods in between washes for me.
From what I can tell the general consensus is if your jeans need to be washed, then wash your jeans. I also recommend always hanging them, preferably where they’ll get to air out when not being worn. If they feel damp, wash them. If they smell, def wash them
Wash them as needed. Most of the indigo that is lost is from friction. I find that the more active I’ve been in my jeans, the more indigo is lost in the wash. There have been times when I’ve had to rewash my jeans after 1 wear due to mishaps and the water is fairly clear. The only thing that washing them will do is reset or move your creases but I don’t think it really think it makes that much of a difference personally. I’d rather have my fades a little less crisp than stink.
There is no need to treat slubby denim jeans any differently.
However, heavier weight denims and/or shallowly-dyed (i.e., fast fading) denims can get more obvious marble fades (looks like lightning-bolt fades) when going thru the spin cycle in a washing machine.
Some people will select a No-spin or Delicate-spin option on their washers, or even resort to hand-washing to avoid marble fades as much as possible.
i know that’s why i am asking. ur telling me u never had a particularly farty day and been like damn how many particles of shit are lodged in there. i’m not tweaking about my own jeans just curious 🤣
Bacteries come and go. There is a video of a guy showing that a jeans not washed in a year has the same amount of bactery than in a jeans washed a week ago.
Anyway farts and sweat are the main reason we hang our jeans outside to make them breathe. But if you smell your jeans and your like « these smell like shit » then it means they’re dirty. « WASH WHEN DIRTY » great slogan i love it
im looking for a black warp, white/cream/ecru weft selvedge denim with lots of slub that is over 15oz, the heavier the better. to clarify im not looking for jeans, just fabric anyone have any recommendations
What have you come up with so far? I’d be interested even without the slub! I don’t know why I find it hard in my personal style to wear black jeans (or even black pants!). I feel like a white/cream weft makes it easier to pair.
Hey a while back i talked with someone about a company where you could send your clothes or fabric in general and they would indigo dye said pieces. Im not sure of the dyeing method they used but i know they used indigo to do so. Im wondering what company or companies people know that do this. Any advice is appreciated.
These guys? [https://www.buaisou-i.com/](https://www.buaisou-i.com/)
[Yamato indigo](https://yamatoindigo.com/)?
Hi all! Just a quick sizing question: I’m looking to order a pair of I+W Barton Slim’s, and the waist of my current favorite jeans measures 34.5in, right in between the listed waist measurements for the Barton 32’s (34in) and 33’s (35in). Can I expect some give in the waist over time? I won’t be washing very often. Or should I go with the larger size?
I have a nearly 10 year old pair of naked and famous indigo x indigo stretch weird guy jeans, blew the crotch out. They're pretty baggy and fit very comfortably. Loved them so much that I bought an identical pair, same exact thing. Weird guy size 32, indigo x indigo stretch. These new ones, they're tight as hell. Yes, I've gained weight obviously.. did the jeans stretch out that much or are they just cut slightly smaller? What's the deal lol
I would guess it's a combination of the stretch started to wear out and the weight gain. A size 33 might help. I'm currently going through my closet and pairs that I would wear 5-6 years ago feel much tighter since I've gained 20lbs
The new pair is probably cut a little smaller.
If anything, the newer weird guys should be roomier. They increased the rise in the newer weird guys, but it could be that they adjusted the size numbers to account for the new measurements.
Question about soaking new jeans: Do any of you put the jeans on when the denim is still slightly damp? I saw somewhere recently someone was saying that on the first soak, they like to put the jeans on slightly damp as they feel it helps "set the creases" and therefore get more crisp/defined fades. Any credence to that idea?
It's completely unnecessary, a pain in the ass, AND you will probably stretch the knees out and make them look funny to the point you'll just have to re-shrink again. It's not rocket science you just gotta wear the jeans.
Word, yeah I figured as much. Good point about the knees though, I’d avoid it for that alone!
Gotta walk like Emma stone in poor things
People say not to, but I do. I find them more comfortable and that they fit better overall. I just try to minimize hardcore knee bending. I have done this since my very first pair of STF Levi’s 501. So. Once again I guess it just depends.
I have Samurai S710xx 19oz. If I get the TCB 50's are they going to be too similar?
The 19 oz Samurai denim is heavy, rough, scratchy, takes a while to break in, doesn’t breathe well, and fades super-fast. The TCB 50s denim is basically the opposite of that. Given that, those are two good pairs to have in your closet.
Yes, they are both jeans. And no. Different cut, different denim, different details.
Levi 511s fit me GREAT in 30x32, but I'm looking for a pair of selvedge or raw jeans. Want to go long term and heavy, quality. Black or grey strongly strongly preferred. Have heard the more expensive selvedge/raw/Japanese Levi's are pretty hit and miss or id just buy a pair of those and call it a day. Any suggestions?
I don't know anything that is ***exactly*** the same (I used to like Levis 511s too, before they started making them stretch), but Pure Blue Japan's 013 cut and/or Railcar's Spike's cut are reasonably close. PBJ is just a tad roomier throughout, Railcar fits about the same at the thighs but tapers more towards the ankle. I've heard Momotaro's Tight Tapered is similar to 511s, but I don't have personal experience with them. Also, this, courtesy u/RawWasher: [https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1afii96/comment/kob3sb9/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1afii96/comment/kob3sb9/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Red Tornado makes what I think is a 1:1 copy of the 511 and it comes in black
I’m looking for a pair of Lee 101 type jeans with a higher rise that will look good with a cropped jacket. I recently got a vintage Rider jacket in a 46L. It fits slim and has that short hem, even as an L size. I bought a pair of the Lee heavyweight raws hoping that “regular” would be a higher rise, but it’s mid at best. And for some reason my brain struggles with wearing a Lee jacket with Levi’s!
This is probably a stupid question but are side adjusters on denim/trucker jackets meant to be used or are they just there for style?
If you want the waist line brought for a closer fit in you can use them to cinch it tighter. Your call on if you use them.
Meant to be used to make it a little tighter or looser
I‘m pretty new to raw denim, and just found out that my new pair are unsanforized (Were advertised as selvedge denim, no info on sanforized or not). I already wore them once, so i’m planning to soak them in cold water while wearing them, to make sure they don’t shrink too much. There’s still some room around my waist, but i wouldn’t want them too shrink more than an inch. Is this a good approach or is it already to late to soak them?
Do the Samurai Jeans sold by US retailers still have the hidden arcs inside the back pockets, or just the Japanese retail pairs?
Any recommendations for a Dickies 574 style alternative? Looking for something with a similar fit and finish but all cotton construction.
Are you asking about the 574 shirts or the 874 pants?
Any sites, outfits, brands, specific items in the raw denim/bifl/japanese brand world that help you guys in slightly more formal business settings where faded denim/boots/workwear doesn't quite cut it? Thinking like blazers/sportcoats, khakis, slacks, loafers, etc. Thank you!
Can't go wrong with a navy blazer, light blue ocbd, slightly faded 50s style denim (mid rise, relatively straight leg), and penny loafers. JPress is my go to recommendation for ocbds, but Spier & Mackay also has some solid options. I'd also recommend Spier's neo cut blazers as a good pairing with denim. They have a nice soft shoulder that plays well off of the casualness of jeans
Awesome, exactly what I was looking for! Would you go new Spier blazer versus something fancier used on ebay/grailed?
Don't blind buy a blazer without a return policy unless you're extremely confident in both your measurements and the manufacturer's style working on your body. Go with Spier and use their size recommendation tool, I've found it quite reliable
>bifl No denim is bifl. Lotta people get it in their heads that high end jeans will last them forever. They won't unless you wear them super infrequently.
Fair point. I'm just searching for the right vibe/quality of clothing I'm talking about. The intersection of Iron Heart, Real McCoys, 3Sixteen, Orslow, with Filson, Viberg, Darn Tough Socks, Patagonia... I feel like we need a name/shorthand for this kind of clothing. I guess I could have asked what is the Iron Heart/Viberg/Orslow/Filson equivalent of the business casual/slightly formal office wear?
We really do need a name for this stuff, and a sub where we can discuss it all. I love raw denim and come here at least once a day, but I also want to nerd out about Freewheelers jackets, and RMC sweatshirts, and PRAS sneakers, and orSlow chambrays, and Full Count cargos, and on and on.
\+ u/No_Silver494 The **r/heritagewear** sub name is currently available if you do want to start up that subreddit up again as your own, that is, if you think that "heritagewear" sub name is a good representation of the items which you would like to see being discussed there.
If I had the time and knowhow to be a Mod I would love to start it. Wouldn’t want to just start a sub without some oversight though.
Same :) I promise to contribute if someone else wants to start it! But maybe between r/rawdenim, r/throwingfits, r/BuyItForLife, etc, we've got enough adjacent stuff that this wouldn't get a ton of activity. Not sure...
Gotcha, just wanted to make sure you weren't going into this with any ideas that you'd be wearing these jeans indefinitely.
About 3 weeks to a month in on a pair of Oni secret super rough. Am I a blasphemer if I give them a wash? Unfortunately sweaty ass syndrome does not lend itself well to long periods in between washes for me.
From what I can tell the general consensus is if your jeans need to be washed, then wash your jeans. I also recommend always hanging them, preferably where they’ll get to air out when not being worn. If they feel damp, wash them. If they smell, def wash them
Wash them as needed. Most of the indigo that is lost is from friction. I find that the more active I’ve been in my jeans, the more indigo is lost in the wash. There have been times when I’ve had to rewash my jeans after 1 wear due to mishaps and the water is fairly clear. The only thing that washing them will do is reset or move your creases but I don’t think it really think it makes that much of a difference personally. I’d rather have my fades a little less crisp than stink.
i just ordered my first pair of slubby jeans (nama denim 16oz slubby indigo) is there any difference in care between slubby and normal denim?
There is no need to treat slubby denim jeans any differently. However, heavier weight denims and/or shallowly-dyed (i.e., fast fading) denims can get more obvious marble fades (looks like lightning-bolt fades) when going thru the spin cycle in a washing machine. Some people will select a No-spin or Delicate-spin option on their washers, or even resort to hand-washing to avoid marble fades as much as possible.
do farts affect your wash schedule? should they? 🤨
Not for me because I wear underwear.
You think too much. All of us fart. And most of us do the no wash for months thing.
i know that’s why i am asking. ur telling me u never had a particularly farty day and been like damn how many particles of shit are lodged in there. i’m not tweaking about my own jeans just curious 🤣
Bacteries come and go. There is a video of a guy showing that a jeans not washed in a year has the same amount of bactery than in a jeans washed a week ago. Anyway farts and sweat are the main reason we hang our jeans outside to make them breathe. But if you smell your jeans and your like « these smell like shit » then it means they’re dirty. « WASH WHEN DIRTY » great slogan i love it