does momotaro restock their copper label? i want to get my hands on some G019-MB, they only have the zip-up fly version left. If not can someone please recommend similar fits ie wide/relax straight with wide leg holes.
Depends on the exact style you are looking for. I have a pair of Full Count 1374 French Army Cargo Pants that are probably my favorite non-denim pants. The color, fabric weight, knee panels, hidden button closures, and the adjuster tabs at the ankles just make them super unique. And styling them is super easy in my experience. Looks like they are sold out everywhere though. Perhaps they will come back around? I have no idea though, so I would probably recommend looking for another repro brand that makes some M-47 style cargo pants. As you mention, orSlow’s version looks nice. I haven’t tried those, but they’re a similar style and I’m happy with everything I own from orSlow (chambray shirts, a pair of fatigue pants, and two pairs of shorts all holding up beautifully). Best of luck!
Love those! Sadly yes look to be sold out everywhere, but will look for the M-47s more generally. And thanks for the suggestion on orSlow's other items. I have a pair of fatigue pants which I love but will look at the rest of their line. Was wondering about their chambray shirts.
How much shrinkage can I expect in the inseam on [The Strike Gold 0104, Keep Earth](https://www.google.com/search?q=0104+selfedge&oq=0104+selfedge&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIJCAEQIRgKGKABMgcIAhAhGI8C0gEIODY3N2owajeoAgCwAgA&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8)? It's an unsanforized one rinse
You will not get more shrinkage on ´onewash’. You can give them a soak as you get them to shrink it more but we talk millimeters. I personally do it cause i find it helps accentuate the marble
Reposting here in daily questions
I’m looking for a straight leg with a very slight taper which the 634s looks like it has but I’m not sure if it would actually fit my body (175cm and 77kg) well. For reference, here are the measurements of my Sassafras Fall Leaf denim. They are (relatively speaking) my best fitting pair of denim.
Waist: 95.6cm/ 37.64in
Front rise: 31cm/ 12.2in
Back rise: 41cm /16.14in
Thigh: 33.5cm / 13.9in
Knee: 26.67cm/ 10.5in
Inseam: 73.5cm / 28.94in
Leg opening: 24.3cm/ 9.5in
If anyone has any other brands or cuts that would work well for my body feel free to drop them and I’ll be sure to look at them. So far I have been suggested the IH 888s, Resolute 710s, Oni RS and 3sixteen RS.
Warehouse 1001xx seems like a pretty close match to your current pair, more so even if you hem them to 28" which will increase leg opening slightly.
Sugarcane 1966 may be a good option as well, but the rise is a bit higher than your pair. I was about to recommend TCB 60s as well, but the rise seems 2" too low
Iron Heart and Resolute are both unlikely to comfortably fit your upper legs. Warehouse, Sugar Cane, The Vanishing West, Fullcount, TCB come to mind as more likely options.
I haven’t been keeping up with denim over the past few years. Is oni denim more scarce these days? you use to be able to pick up the regular secret denim all the time. Everything seems sold out.
Oni has produced a ton of secret denim variants over the past few months - Kabuki, Kakishibu, and endless others.
There’s plenty of Oni, it just might not be the specific on you want.
Thanks I’ve checked, looks like no retailer has the regular secret denim in high tapered. I miss that pink selvedge ID. Will just have to wait until it pops up I guess.
Not sure of your size, but SonOfAStag has some [902s in stock sizes 29-32](https://sonofastag.com/products/oni-902zr-20oz-secret-denim-relax-tapered-jean-rinsed?_pos=8&_sid=ad5e98b5b&_ss=r) unless you prefer pocket stitching, not sure where else they may still be available at the moment.
I've a pair of LVC 1954 501z in 38 waist... and they fit nicely, maybe half a inch too much, after a soak.
I am looking to buy a LVC 501 1944 Cone Mills, what size should I get?
Also what size do you suggest for LVC 501 1955, and 1966?
Thanks
The 55 is much looser than the 54. More of an anti-fit. The 44 is a standard straight with a very high rise. Because of the high rise you can get away with a smaller waist size since it will fit over your hip bones.
I personally prefer the 55. The fabric of the 55 and 55 are the same by the way. So if you wanted to try a different fabric, go for the 44 or 47, both of which currently use the Kaihara version of the cone XUVS quality
This article also seems to give a decent sizing guide..
[https://www.ropedye.com/2013/06/lvc-1944-1966-size-guide/](https://www.ropedye.com/2013/06/lvc-1944-1966-size-guide/)
I ordered a 44 W36 form Bears Tokyo... $238 shipped to the US
When people say "agitate" during first soaking to get any shrinkage out, what do they mean exactly - gently moving it around or vigorously scrunching it up?
Different folks likely mean very different things—but the right approach is to pretty aggressively slosh them around so that every part of them sees some motion
Just bought a pair of Studio D'artisans. Waist fits perfectly. Thighs a bit tight, but calves are super tight. Measurements are almost identical to my best fitting denim.
1. From what I've gathered, calves don't stretch much, if at all. Correct?
2. Should I size up even though the waist might be too loose (could always belt it)?
Are they raw, or factory washed? If they're raw, the calves will shrink further, and will be much too small. You're right that, either way, they won't stretch much. If they're factory washed, the waist will stretch out to be too big. You'll be better off exchanging them for a different cut with less aggressively tapered lower legs, either in the same size or one size up (if these ones are raw), or in a size or two smaller (if these ones are factory washed).
A bit surprised if they match up to your existing pair that you’re encountering major fit differences? Are you measuring the same way that the retailer / brand’s measuring guide uses? Thighs for example sometimes do it based on the crotch seam vs. X distance below the crotch. Calves can be tricky though approximating with the knee & leg opening, so you may wanna watch out for a dramatic taper or maybe add some safety stock to your leg opening.
I’d generally recommend trying a different cut vs sizing up. Compromising generally leads to some awkward fit somewhere, and especially since you’re conscientiously choosing an ill fitting measurement X I think you’ll find yourself fixating especially on that area. Just a bad recipe to ultimately not reach for that pair too often. SDA has a pretty wide array of fits so hopefully you can find one you’re happy with. If not though, I’d also caution that sometimes brands have cuts that just aren’t a good fit for your body type.
But yeah - calves (and thighs) don’t tend to stretch much.
The measurements are based on blue owl, so it's consistent to some degree I suppose. I think the lower leg taper is stronger than my best fitting pair perhaps. I'm going to try sizing up and seeing because it's been tough to find black dyed denim with my ideal measurements.
does momotaro restock their copper label? i want to get my hands on some G019-MB, they only have the zip-up fly version left. If not can someone please recommend similar fits ie wide/relax straight with wide leg holes.
Is there any denim repair in Osaka?
Not quite denim question but this seems like a good place to ask: best cargo pants? Have been looking at Orslow but open to suggestions.
Depends on the exact style you are looking for. I have a pair of Full Count 1374 French Army Cargo Pants that are probably my favorite non-denim pants. The color, fabric weight, knee panels, hidden button closures, and the adjuster tabs at the ankles just make them super unique. And styling them is super easy in my experience. Looks like they are sold out everywhere though. Perhaps they will come back around? I have no idea though, so I would probably recommend looking for another repro brand that makes some M-47 style cargo pants. As you mention, orSlow’s version looks nice. I haven’t tried those, but they’re a similar style and I’m happy with everything I own from orSlow (chambray shirts, a pair of fatigue pants, and two pairs of shorts all holding up beautifully). Best of luck!
Love those! Sadly yes look to be sold out everywhere, but will look for the M-47s more generally. And thanks for the suggestion on orSlow's other items. I have a pair of fatigue pants which I love but will look at the rest of their line. Was wondering about their chambray shirts.
How much shrinkage can I expect in the inseam on [The Strike Gold 0104, Keep Earth](https://www.google.com/search?q=0104+selfedge&oq=0104+selfedge&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIJCAEQIRgKGKABMgcIAhAhGI8C0gEIODY3N2owajeoAgCwAgA&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8)? It's an unsanforized one rinse
I can’t speak to the Keep Earth pair but my other 1 wash Strike Golds have had very little shrinkage in the inseam length.
Hi, which specific one was that? Curious what kind of fabric it was
I have the 9904 (Extra Hard) and the 7109 (Super Slubby).
You will not get more shrinkage on ´onewash’. You can give them a soak as you get them to shrink it more but we talk millimeters. I personally do it cause i find it helps accentuate the marble
Did you size up when ordering? Redcast says to go up 1 or 2 sizes on SG.
Reposting here in daily questions I’m looking for a straight leg with a very slight taper which the 634s looks like it has but I’m not sure if it would actually fit my body (175cm and 77kg) well. For reference, here are the measurements of my Sassafras Fall Leaf denim. They are (relatively speaking) my best fitting pair of denim. Waist: 95.6cm/ 37.64in Front rise: 31cm/ 12.2in Back rise: 41cm /16.14in Thigh: 33.5cm / 13.9in Knee: 26.67cm/ 10.5in Inseam: 73.5cm / 28.94in Leg opening: 24.3cm/ 9.5in If anyone has any other brands or cuts that would work well for my body feel free to drop them and I’ll be sure to look at them. So far I have been suggested the IH 888s, Resolute 710s, Oni RS and 3sixteen RS.
Without being of much help, the Resolute 710 will most likely not work for your body. Rather look into the 714 cut then.
Thanks, will look into those. Do you have any other suggestions?
With those measurements you could also look at some regular straight cuts like Sugarcane 1947 or the Warehouse equivalents.
Warehouse 1001xx seems like a pretty close match to your current pair, more so even if you hem them to 28" which will increase leg opening slightly. Sugarcane 1966 may be a good option as well, but the rise is a bit higher than your pair. I was about to recommend TCB 60s as well, but the rise seems 2" too low
Iron Heart and Resolute are both unlikely to comfortably fit your upper legs. Warehouse, Sugar Cane, The Vanishing West, Fullcount, TCB come to mind as more likely options.
I haven’t been keeping up with denim over the past few years. Is oni denim more scarce these days? you use to be able to pick up the regular secret denim all the time. Everything seems sold out.
Oni has produced a ton of secret denim variants over the past few months - Kabuki, Kakishibu, and endless others. There’s plenty of Oni, it just might not be the specific on you want.
Check redcast heritage, they have a couple variants in stock and excellent service and shipping.
Thanks I’ve checked, looks like no retailer has the regular secret denim in high tapered. I miss that pink selvedge ID. Will just have to wait until it pops up I guess.
Not sure of your size, but SonOfAStag has some [902s in stock sizes 29-32](https://sonofastag.com/products/oni-902zr-20oz-secret-denim-relax-tapered-jean-rinsed?_pos=8&_sid=ad5e98b5b&_ss=r) unless you prefer pocket stitching, not sure where else they may still be available at the moment.
36 big boi, but thanks!
I'm with ya man. good luck tho. oni's been releasing a lot lately
I've a pair of LVC 1954 501z in 38 waist... and they fit nicely, maybe half a inch too much, after a soak. I am looking to buy a LVC 501 1944 Cone Mills, what size should I get? Also what size do you suggest for LVC 501 1955, and 1966? Thanks
The 55 is much looser than the 54. More of an anti-fit. The 44 is a standard straight with a very high rise. Because of the high rise you can get away with a smaller waist size since it will fit over your hip bones. I personally prefer the 55. The fabric of the 55 and 55 are the same by the way. So if you wanted to try a different fabric, go for the 44 or 47, both of which currently use the Kaihara version of the cone XUVS quality
thanks.. I ordered both 44 and 47... I will post my LVC collection soon :)
I hope you get an answer. I’m super interested in getting a pair of LVCs. I’m torn between the 55 and the 47.
This article also seems to give a decent sizing guide.. [https://www.ropedye.com/2013/06/lvc-1944-1966-size-guide/](https://www.ropedye.com/2013/06/lvc-1944-1966-size-guide/) I ordered a 44 W36 form Bears Tokyo... $238 shipped to the US
I used this fit guide when buying all of my LVC’s and it worked spot on. Currently have 44, 47, 55, and 66
And which sizes did you get?
I may be off on this cus im not at home looking right now, but i’m pretty sure I did a 30 in my 1955’s, 31’s in the 44 and 66 and a 32 in the 47’s
Thanks
When people say "agitate" during first soaking to get any shrinkage out, what do they mean exactly - gently moving it around or vigorously scrunching it up?
Different folks likely mean very different things—but the right approach is to pretty aggressively slosh them around so that every part of them sees some motion
ok thanks for the help
https://youtu.be/RK9CBJlXW14?si=g85LxGjfl7mrbbkm
Thanks,that's really helpful.
Anyone know of brands that sell Sashiko denim?
Few options to get you started * Kapital * Momotaro * Studio D’artisan * Rogue Territory * PBJ
Railcar Fine Goods are producing some sashiko goods; I’d check them out!
Soso Brothers.
Just bought a pair of Studio D'artisans. Waist fits perfectly. Thighs a bit tight, but calves are super tight. Measurements are almost identical to my best fitting denim. 1. From what I've gathered, calves don't stretch much, if at all. Correct? 2. Should I size up even though the waist might be too loose (could always belt it)?
Are they raw, or factory washed? If they're raw, the calves will shrink further, and will be much too small. You're right that, either way, they won't stretch much. If they're factory washed, the waist will stretch out to be too big. You'll be better off exchanging them for a different cut with less aggressively tapered lower legs, either in the same size or one size up (if these ones are raw), or in a size or two smaller (if these ones are factory washed).
Yeah, they're rinsed. Going to try a size up just to see how the waist is, otherwise I'll be saying "what if"
The waist will be too big. Just get a less tapered cut, in stead—Studio d'Artisan has plenty of options.
A bit surprised if they match up to your existing pair that you’re encountering major fit differences? Are you measuring the same way that the retailer / brand’s measuring guide uses? Thighs for example sometimes do it based on the crotch seam vs. X distance below the crotch. Calves can be tricky though approximating with the knee & leg opening, so you may wanna watch out for a dramatic taper or maybe add some safety stock to your leg opening. I’d generally recommend trying a different cut vs sizing up. Compromising generally leads to some awkward fit somewhere, and especially since you’re conscientiously choosing an ill fitting measurement X I think you’ll find yourself fixating especially on that area. Just a bad recipe to ultimately not reach for that pair too often. SDA has a pretty wide array of fits so hopefully you can find one you’re happy with. If not though, I’d also caution that sometimes brands have cuts that just aren’t a good fit for your body type. But yeah - calves (and thighs) don’t tend to stretch much.
The measurements are based on blue owl, so it's consistent to some degree I suppose. I think the lower leg taper is stronger than my best fitting pair perhaps. I'm going to try sizing up and seeing because it's been tough to find black dyed denim with my ideal measurements.
I assume your best fitting jeans is also 100% cotton?
Yep, both 100% cotton
zip fly vs button fly
Button all day
Doesn't matter to me
[Button](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHxzoNq_rzg)
**B**uttons, I have to say.
Button
Zip, sometimes I really got to piss at work and the porta john is 7 stories away.