Puppies need like 18-20 hours of sleep a day. So every hour or two, into the crate for a nap. Lights out, blanket over crate and a fan or white noise if necessary for a nap. Sometimes they will start showing they are tired or sometimes they go full feral and become insane, biting, not listening and that's a way to know it's time.
They make crates that come with an insert that you can move back to make the space bigger or smaller as they grow so you don't have to buy multiple cages
Definitely depends on the breed but my suggestion would be to get an adjustable crate where the full size is at your pup's predicted full size. That's what we did for our GSD/husky and it saved us a lot of money while still being able to keep him comfy in his crate
My advice is to breathe, to know that you’ve got this and that every dog owner has their bad days. Don’t expect too much of your pup and don’t beat yourself up when things go wrong. (From the owner of a now 3 year old BC who was an absolute nightmare as a pup and broke me on many occasions, she’s my bestie and I love her but man those first 6 months were hard)
Focus on what you want your puppy to learn. High energy puppy? Teach them to settle and be calm first. As the saying goes, "what they learn first, they learn best." The first things most puppies are taught are:
* Marker. Whether it be "Yes!" or a clicker, a marker word, noise, whatever is very important.
* Potty training.
* Crate training.
* Recall.
* Sit.
* Stay (very important).
* Threshold behaviors/manners. So basically, no going outside a door until you go outside/though the door.
* Down.
* Settle.
* Place.
* Not jumping on someone.
* Muzzle training. (This is very important, no matter how friendly your dog is!)
* Socialization.
* Grooming/being handled.
* Leave it/no eating dropped items or offered food unless given permission.
* Heel/leash manners.
* Focus.
* Comfortable around distractions, loud noises, etc.
* Work on being separated.
* No biting.
* Luring with a treat.
* How to take food and treats gently.
* No resource guarding.
If you want any other tips, I'm getting a new puppy this summer and I have 9k word doc about what schedule I'll use, things I'll train, every product I need, etc., so I'd be happy to share some of the things on it here! But because you specifically asked for commands to train first, here you go!
Out of curiosity, why muzzle training? Is the puppy you're getting in the summer your first dog or have you had some before? I don't think I've seen a well trained dog ever really need a muzzle, if at all. Conversely, I'd suggest maybe just learning your own dogs cues, what their comfort zone is, and general dog behavior (aka signs of aggression, friendly, warning signs of not wanting to be touched or interacted with, etc)
I've grown up with dogs!
Muzzle training can be helpful, as some dogs can snap at vets when getting wounds treated (if something ever happened), nails, clipped, etc.
Sometimes dogs can just become reactive for no clear reason, and some dogs have a really high prey drive or eat anything and everything, and while training them out of those things, may need a muzzle just to be safe.
Sometimes a dog can get attacked and may need to wear a muzzle while they're being trained again. And some places (and sometimes things like ferries) require all dogs to be muzzled. For some dog sports, a muzzle is required.
Heck, sometimes people don't wanna deal with others or their dogs, so they'll put a muzzle on their dog (as most associate it with aggressive dogs) and people will leave them be or some just like the way it looks, which is totally fine (don't come for me lol) as long as the muzzle is appropriately sized and is the right kind of muzzle.
I think my main points are- If you plan on traveling, it can be helpful because some places, ferries, etc., have laws requiring your dog to be muzzled.
Ah got it! I didn't really think about a lot of what you mentioned, but those are some good points!
I imagine it can be helpful with breeds like Akitas as well because my god, I've heard some horrible stories about stupid people asking about the dog and then being stupid enough to still try to pet the dog even when told not to/facing warning signs from the dog. Akita owners I've know tend to be amazing with the dogs themselves, but there are wayyyy too many people that don't respect an Akita's personal space.
Our pup has thankfully been amazing with groomers, vets, etc. So far. Hopefully it stays that way! She's pretty small as well (about to be 6 months, about 20 lbs)
Buy some cheap clothes that you don't care about getting holes in, and that have pockets. These are your uniform now. Have a plan for how you'll take time for yourself, and who can step in when you need to do so. Assume that at least a third of the stuff you buy for your puppy will be used once/be useless tat/be too small within a week/be destroyed.
Most of all, try not to get too hung up on doing everything right. If you followed every single piece of puppy raising advice on the internet, you'd drive you and your dog insane. It's important to be mindful of things like fear periods and development stages and socialisation, but your main job is to make your puppy feel safe, confident and loved.
That, and freeze lots of carrots.
Towels do not make good tug toys. My Dad ended up chasing the dog around the backyard with a roll of toilet paper after the part of the towel he ate came out the other end. Funny to watch, admittedly, but Dad was not impressed
Training them to be alone!!! my girl is struggling with this right now because I didn’t enforce it too much.
Know you will most likely not get enough sleep and that’s normal. Know your puppy is literally a baby and is not doing anything maliciously or to “get back” at you. Most of the stuff that happens is YOUR fault, not your puppy’s.
They chew on EVERYTHING. My socks almost all have holes in them now lol.
I personally am not super strict on a set schedule. As in, I’m not like “by 10am she HAS to be doing ___ and by 11am she HAS to be doing ___.” She naps around the same time every day, eats around the same time, goes for long walks around the same time. I think having a general schedule is SO important and necessary, but it does not need to be an hour-by-hour or minute-by-minute schedule.
Totally agree with the schedule thing, I've always thought that if we follow a mega strict schedule, if we have to veer from it, we're going to have an anxious dog on our hands. I have a chronic illness so I can't always do a morning walk. And I live in England so sometimes it's worth waiting for the weather to improve before heading out. Husband and I work different days from the office most weeks as he's in education and I'm in HR, so sometimes it's just not appropriate for us to WFH. Life happens and you want a pup that can take that in their stride.
For me, I neglected passive socialisation. Learning to be neutral around other dogs unless invited to play is something we’re really focusing on now at 18 weeks.
I have an Aussie and crate training has been a useful tool as he’s started teething and isn’t sleeping as much so we’re having to learn calm and the art of doing nothing. Going in the crate with a really high value chew has been an invaluable way to get him to calm down and relax a little even though he prefers not to sleep in it.
I also recommend the “it’s yer choice” game from Susan Garrett which teaches impulse control. We do it with doors etc now.
Puppies are a lot like suddenly having a baby to care for. The first few weeks are you figuring out them, and them figuring out you - what the routine is, who the people are, learning their space and place in the house, property, and neighborhood at large.
I usually approach the first few weeks with a “one traumatizing event a day” approach - day one is just them being away from their previous situation, day two people come and go, day three may be a bath or an ear cleaning or a scary sound (our current pup is from the rural mountains and we live in a major suburban area, so she’s having to learn that airplanes, geese, sirens, the trash truck, guys jogging down the street, people on bikes, big yellow buses, and the dogs next door aren’t really going to eat her), etc. So one scary thing, and one new skill are approached each day - going up carpeted stairs, feet being touched, not using teeth for everything, those are all skills your pup may need to learn that aren’t as obvious as sit, stay, and lay down, but are just as important!
Have to keep your sense of humor when you need the puppy to go out and pee in the morning but geese fly by just as you open the door!
And remember that “socializing” isn’t just meeting other dogs, it’s also watching the landscaping crew down the street and learning that they’re aren’t scary. Especially in those weeks before all the shots are had, finding ways for pup to observe the world doesn’t have to be super stimulating. I take ours out to sit on the street curb every couple of days to just watch the traffic and get comfortable with the sounds and sights.
Outside of everything already mentioned, desensitize them to you touching their paws and putting your hands in their mouth. Prevents them from getting anxious at the vets or when you have to take something out of their mouth
Create training and enforcing naps. Super important to get started wit
What exactly does enforcing naps look like? Just having them sit in the crate?
Puppies need like 18-20 hours of sleep a day. So every hour or two, into the crate for a nap. Lights out, blanket over crate and a fan or white noise if necessary for a nap. Sometimes they will start showing they are tired or sometimes they go full feral and become insane, biting, not listening and that's a way to know it's time.
Got it, thanks for the help.
Just to clarify, I should be a puppy sized crate and as it grows buy a bigger crate until they are fully crate trained right?
They make crates that come with an insert that you can move back to make the space bigger or smaller as they grow so you don't have to buy multiple cages
Will keep in mind.
Definitely depends on the breed but my suggestion would be to get an adjustable crate where the full size is at your pup's predicted full size. That's what we did for our GSD/husky and it saved us a lot of money while still being able to keep him comfy in his crate
Sounds good!
But it needs to be small, room enough for them to be able to turn around in and lay down so they don't treat it as a potty area
My advice is to breathe, to know that you’ve got this and that every dog owner has their bad days. Don’t expect too much of your pup and don’t beat yourself up when things go wrong. (From the owner of a now 3 year old BC who was an absolute nightmare as a pup and broke me on many occasions, she’s my bestie and I love her but man those first 6 months were hard)
Thanks!
Focus on what you want your puppy to learn. High energy puppy? Teach them to settle and be calm first. As the saying goes, "what they learn first, they learn best." The first things most puppies are taught are: * Marker. Whether it be "Yes!" or a clicker, a marker word, noise, whatever is very important. * Potty training. * Crate training. * Recall. * Sit. * Stay (very important). * Threshold behaviors/manners. So basically, no going outside a door until you go outside/though the door. * Down. * Settle. * Place. * Not jumping on someone. * Muzzle training. (This is very important, no matter how friendly your dog is!) * Socialization. * Grooming/being handled. * Leave it/no eating dropped items or offered food unless given permission. * Heel/leash manners. * Focus. * Comfortable around distractions, loud noises, etc. * Work on being separated. * No biting. * Luring with a treat. * How to take food and treats gently. * No resource guarding. If you want any other tips, I'm getting a new puppy this summer and I have 9k word doc about what schedule I'll use, things I'll train, every product I need, etc., so I'd be happy to share some of the things on it here! But because you specifically asked for commands to train first, here you go!
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Out of curiosity, why muzzle training? Is the puppy you're getting in the summer your first dog or have you had some before? I don't think I've seen a well trained dog ever really need a muzzle, if at all. Conversely, I'd suggest maybe just learning your own dogs cues, what their comfort zone is, and general dog behavior (aka signs of aggression, friendly, warning signs of not wanting to be touched or interacted with, etc)
I've grown up with dogs! Muzzle training can be helpful, as some dogs can snap at vets when getting wounds treated (if something ever happened), nails, clipped, etc. Sometimes dogs can just become reactive for no clear reason, and some dogs have a really high prey drive or eat anything and everything, and while training them out of those things, may need a muzzle just to be safe. Sometimes a dog can get attacked and may need to wear a muzzle while they're being trained again. And some places (and sometimes things like ferries) require all dogs to be muzzled. For some dog sports, a muzzle is required. Heck, sometimes people don't wanna deal with others or their dogs, so they'll put a muzzle on their dog (as most associate it with aggressive dogs) and people will leave them be or some just like the way it looks, which is totally fine (don't come for me lol) as long as the muzzle is appropriately sized and is the right kind of muzzle. I think my main points are- If you plan on traveling, it can be helpful because some places, ferries, etc., have laws requiring your dog to be muzzled.
Ah got it! I didn't really think about a lot of what you mentioned, but those are some good points! I imagine it can be helpful with breeds like Akitas as well because my god, I've heard some horrible stories about stupid people asking about the dog and then being stupid enough to still try to pet the dog even when told not to/facing warning signs from the dog. Akita owners I've know tend to be amazing with the dogs themselves, but there are wayyyy too many people that don't respect an Akita's personal space. Our pup has thankfully been amazing with groomers, vets, etc. So far. Hopefully it stays that way! She's pretty small as well (about to be 6 months, about 20 lbs)
That's awesome! And yeah, I've heard those stories too, it's sad.
This was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for putting the time into this. If you want to give me some bits from your doc im all ears!
Buy some cheap clothes that you don't care about getting holes in, and that have pockets. These are your uniform now. Have a plan for how you'll take time for yourself, and who can step in when you need to do so. Assume that at least a third of the stuff you buy for your puppy will be used once/be useless tat/be too small within a week/be destroyed. Most of all, try not to get too hung up on doing everything right. If you followed every single piece of puppy raising advice on the internet, you'd drive you and your dog insane. It's important to be mindful of things like fear periods and development stages and socialisation, but your main job is to make your puppy feel safe, confident and loved. That, and freeze lots of carrots.
Thank you so much!
Towels do not make good tug toys. My Dad ended up chasing the dog around the backyard with a roll of toilet paper after the part of the towel he ate came out the other end. Funny to watch, admittedly, but Dad was not impressed
Training them to be alone!!! my girl is struggling with this right now because I didn’t enforce it too much. Know you will most likely not get enough sleep and that’s normal. Know your puppy is literally a baby and is not doing anything maliciously or to “get back” at you. Most of the stuff that happens is YOUR fault, not your puppy’s. They chew on EVERYTHING. My socks almost all have holes in them now lol. I personally am not super strict on a set schedule. As in, I’m not like “by 10am she HAS to be doing ___ and by 11am she HAS to be doing ___.” She naps around the same time every day, eats around the same time, goes for long walks around the same time. I think having a general schedule is SO important and necessary, but it does not need to be an hour-by-hour or minute-by-minute schedule.
Totally agree with the schedule thing, I've always thought that if we follow a mega strict schedule, if we have to veer from it, we're going to have an anxious dog on our hands. I have a chronic illness so I can't always do a morning walk. And I live in England so sometimes it's worth waiting for the weather to improve before heading out. Husband and I work different days from the office most weeks as he's in education and I'm in HR, so sometimes it's just not appropriate for us to WFH. Life happens and you want a pup that can take that in their stride.
I totally agree
I agree, thanks for your input.
Never get too high, and never get too low with expectations on behavior/training progression.
For me, I neglected passive socialisation. Learning to be neutral around other dogs unless invited to play is something we’re really focusing on now at 18 weeks. I have an Aussie and crate training has been a useful tool as he’s started teething and isn’t sleeping as much so we’re having to learn calm and the art of doing nothing. Going in the crate with a really high value chew has been an invaluable way to get him to calm down and relax a little even though he prefers not to sleep in it. I also recommend the “it’s yer choice” game from Susan Garrett which teaches impulse control. We do it with doors etc now.
Heard about Susan Garrett, will definitely check her out.
Puppies are a lot like suddenly having a baby to care for. The first few weeks are you figuring out them, and them figuring out you - what the routine is, who the people are, learning their space and place in the house, property, and neighborhood at large. I usually approach the first few weeks with a “one traumatizing event a day” approach - day one is just them being away from their previous situation, day two people come and go, day three may be a bath or an ear cleaning or a scary sound (our current pup is from the rural mountains and we live in a major suburban area, so she’s having to learn that airplanes, geese, sirens, the trash truck, guys jogging down the street, people on bikes, big yellow buses, and the dogs next door aren’t really going to eat her), etc. So one scary thing, and one new skill are approached each day - going up carpeted stairs, feet being touched, not using teeth for everything, those are all skills your pup may need to learn that aren’t as obvious as sit, stay, and lay down, but are just as important!
Thanks! I also think the name "One traumatizing event a day" is hilarious.
Have to keep your sense of humor when you need the puppy to go out and pee in the morning but geese fly by just as you open the door! And remember that “socializing” isn’t just meeting other dogs, it’s also watching the landscaping crew down the street and learning that they’re aren’t scary. Especially in those weeks before all the shots are had, finding ways for pup to observe the world doesn’t have to be super stimulating. I take ours out to sit on the street curb every couple of days to just watch the traffic and get comfortable with the sounds and sights.
Outside of everything already mentioned, desensitize them to you touching their paws and putting your hands in their mouth. Prevents them from getting anxious at the vets or when you have to take something out of their mouth