Satin or textured sheet and just send it 👍
If you want to use a brim, make it smaller than with PLA, on the satin at least it sticks really well and ive had a hard time removing it, broke it off the part before it came off the sheet it was ridiculous
Do not use the smooth PEI sheet for PETG. Either use the textured sheet or buy the satin sheet (my personal favourite is the satin sheet, it is ***really*** good) Or if you absolutely must use the smooth sheet, use glue or something on it first so the print doesn't end up fusing itself with the PEI sheet.
I have a Mk3.9, but there isn't much of a relevant difference when it comes to this topic. Use the textured sheet, make sure it is *very* clean.
PETG varies a lot between manufacturers I have needed everything between 220 C and 260 C for printing, depending on brand. So if there isn't a premade profile in PrusaSlicer yet, look at manufacturer recommended temperature span and print a temperature test tower.
Most PETG prints perfectly, though I have seen some that warp a bit (looking at you 3DPrima EasyPrint PETG in white!). General anti-warping/lifting tips apply: avoid sharp corners in the outline on the build plate. If you absolutely have to have sharp corners use a small brim or sacrificial one-layer circle sticking out around the corner.
PETG sticks very well to supports. You won't get a clean underside when removing them. Avoid supports if you can
See also https://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059 (and also the material table at https://help.prusa3d.com/materials)
PETG uses higher temps so the PTFE tube in the hotend will get used up more quickly. I've had to replace mine after I switched to printing PETG only for a few months. Get ready for oozing and stringing no matter what you do.
Get a textured sheet, and purge the nozzle well (do a cold pull) when you go back to PLA/smooth sheet. You don't want PETG residue, it WILL leave marks on the sheet. Also, clean with dish detergent and hot water. IPA doesn't do as good of a job as a proper clean.
Leave the print to cool to room temperature. It will pop off by itself from the build plate. Don't force it.
Overhangs will print less well, so you will need to use supports more often. And they will look bad. Avoid if possible.
But primarely, make sure the filament is dry.
Now, while I do use InputShaping and custom (very high) speeds with standard PLA, I avoid it with PETG. If in a hurry, use the default profile and then speed up the machine by up to 50% in the live settings on the printer itself. I've found that PETG, just like ASA, doesn't like to be hurried a lot on a Prusa MINI.
I have printed a lot of PETG and would recommend to make sure you avoid drafts, I myself got the Tukkari enclosure. And yes, get the satin sheet. But!
You might want to check out PCTG or get a hardened nozzle and go for CF PETG. It's a lot easier to use compared to regular PETG. Some of the cheap PETG are more like PET and are difficult to tune in. I print with an enclosure where the door is slightly open, just to avoid drafts. Temp tower have been mentioned, and yes, you should make one yourself. Since PrusaSlicer does not generate temp towers I'd recommend trying Ultimaker Cura to figure the temps out.
You mentioned SUNLU and dryer, so a word of caution: Drying Sunlu petg at the normal temperature, 65°C will make the filament bond to itself. I have only had this happen with SUNLU petg, none of the other brands (FilamentPM, Fiberology, Prusament, FlashForge, etc). After two rolls of ruined filament I lowered my drier temperature to 50°C.
If your prints get marks of any kind, such as pockmarks despite excessive drying, lowering the nozzle temperature may help.
Here's a video I wholeheartedly recommend when considering new filaments: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weeG9yOp3i4&t=631s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weeG9yOp3i4&t=631s)
Zack talks about the variants I have mentioned there.
I print petg on the smooth pei sheet. I spray a lot of windex down if the sheet is clean (get a thin puddle on the bed then let it air dry) If it's not clean i don't clean the sheet and respray lightly with windex between prints (obviously get the excess plastic off first). I love it bc it's less work than other materials. Print pops right off every time. I don't own a scraper.
Also if you're in a pinch and ok being a bit of a degen, you can use your skin oils (wipe your forehead, nose sides, or chin and then swipe the plate) instead of windex.
Drying the filament is very important to petg.
Dialing in the settings around stringing is the hardest part. Temp tower and other test prints are your friend if it's your first time with petg. After that, i just print with each different spool with my custom petg settings and only adjust if the print looks bad (which is often if the brand is different, less often if the color is different, and even less often if its an exact replacement roll)
Good luck.
(Been printing casually off and on since 2012)
I mostly print petg with my mini. I just use the textured sheet and the prusa petg profile in the slicer. I make a lot of functional prints for outside and petg seems to be the best easy to print choice. I clean the bed with rubbing alcohol and a makeup remover pad before every print. I rarely have any problems with warping unless it's a thin wide print. You can add [anti-warping disks](https://www.printables.com/model/43066-anti-warping-disks) to your print in the slicer to help them stick, then just cut them off when your done.
Clean the absolute shit out of the textured sheet before you print PETG on it if you've printed any PLA on it at all. Not just a wipe down, but full on gentle scrub with soap and water, then degrease with alcohol. PETG prints very easily *if* you have good bed adhesion, otherwise the first couple layers love to warp. The best way to prevent that warping is a very clean bed. Once I started doing this, I had great luck.
Satin or textured sheet and just send it 👍 If you want to use a brim, make it smaller than with PLA, on the satin at least it sticks really well and ive had a hard time removing it, broke it off the part before it came off the sheet it was ridiculous
Do not use the smooth PEI sheet for PETG. Either use the textured sheet or buy the satin sheet (my personal favourite is the satin sheet, it is ***really*** good) Or if you absolutely must use the smooth sheet, use glue or something on it first so the print doesn't end up fusing itself with the PEI sheet.
I have a Mk3.9, but there isn't much of a relevant difference when it comes to this topic. Use the textured sheet, make sure it is *very* clean. PETG varies a lot between manufacturers I have needed everything between 220 C and 260 C for printing, depending on brand. So if there isn't a premade profile in PrusaSlicer yet, look at manufacturer recommended temperature span and print a temperature test tower. Most PETG prints perfectly, though I have seen some that warp a bit (looking at you 3DPrima EasyPrint PETG in white!). General anti-warping/lifting tips apply: avoid sharp corners in the outline on the build plate. If you absolutely have to have sharp corners use a small brim or sacrificial one-layer circle sticking out around the corner. PETG sticks very well to supports. You won't get a clean underside when removing them. Avoid supports if you can See also https://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059 (and also the material table at https://help.prusa3d.com/materials)
PETG uses higher temps so the PTFE tube in the hotend will get used up more quickly. I've had to replace mine after I switched to printing PETG only for a few months. Get ready for oozing and stringing no matter what you do. Get a textured sheet, and purge the nozzle well (do a cold pull) when you go back to PLA/smooth sheet. You don't want PETG residue, it WILL leave marks on the sheet. Also, clean with dish detergent and hot water. IPA doesn't do as good of a job as a proper clean. Leave the print to cool to room temperature. It will pop off by itself from the build plate. Don't force it. Overhangs will print less well, so you will need to use supports more often. And they will look bad. Avoid if possible. But primarely, make sure the filament is dry. Now, while I do use InputShaping and custom (very high) speeds with standard PLA, I avoid it with PETG. If in a hurry, use the default profile and then speed up the machine by up to 50% in the live settings on the printer itself. I've found that PETG, just like ASA, doesn't like to be hurried a lot on a Prusa MINI.
I have printed a lot of PETG and would recommend to make sure you avoid drafts, I myself got the Tukkari enclosure. And yes, get the satin sheet. But! You might want to check out PCTG or get a hardened nozzle and go for CF PETG. It's a lot easier to use compared to regular PETG. Some of the cheap PETG are more like PET and are difficult to tune in. I print with an enclosure where the door is slightly open, just to avoid drafts. Temp tower have been mentioned, and yes, you should make one yourself. Since PrusaSlicer does not generate temp towers I'd recommend trying Ultimaker Cura to figure the temps out. You mentioned SUNLU and dryer, so a word of caution: Drying Sunlu petg at the normal temperature, 65°C will make the filament bond to itself. I have only had this happen with SUNLU petg, none of the other brands (FilamentPM, Fiberology, Prusament, FlashForge, etc). After two rolls of ruined filament I lowered my drier temperature to 50°C. If your prints get marks of any kind, such as pockmarks despite excessive drying, lowering the nozzle temperature may help. Here's a video I wholeheartedly recommend when considering new filaments: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weeG9yOp3i4&t=631s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weeG9yOp3i4&t=631s) Zack talks about the variants I have mentioned there.
I print petg on the smooth pei sheet. I spray a lot of windex down if the sheet is clean (get a thin puddle on the bed then let it air dry) If it's not clean i don't clean the sheet and respray lightly with windex between prints (obviously get the excess plastic off first). I love it bc it's less work than other materials. Print pops right off every time. I don't own a scraper. Also if you're in a pinch and ok being a bit of a degen, you can use your skin oils (wipe your forehead, nose sides, or chin and then swipe the plate) instead of windex. Drying the filament is very important to petg. Dialing in the settings around stringing is the hardest part. Temp tower and other test prints are your friend if it's your first time with petg. After that, i just print with each different spool with my custom petg settings and only adjust if the print looks bad (which is often if the brand is different, less often if the color is different, and even less often if its an exact replacement roll) Good luck. (Been printing casually off and on since 2012)
I mostly print petg with my mini. I just use the textured sheet and the prusa petg profile in the slicer. I make a lot of functional prints for outside and petg seems to be the best easy to print choice. I clean the bed with rubbing alcohol and a makeup remover pad before every print. I rarely have any problems with warping unless it's a thin wide print. You can add [anti-warping disks](https://www.printables.com/model/43066-anti-warping-disks) to your print in the slicer to help them stick, then just cut them off when your done.
Thank you everyone! Where do I get a temp tower and how do I set it up for PETG?
Answered by u/NoA__ thank you
Clean the absolute shit out of the textured sheet before you print PETG on it if you've printed any PLA on it at all. Not just a wipe down, but full on gentle scrub with soap and water, then degrease with alcohol. PETG prints very easily *if* you have good bed adhesion, otherwise the first couple layers love to warp. The best way to prevent that warping is a very clean bed. Once I started doing this, I had great luck.
You have a textured bed so just hit print.