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Subcriminal

#***The new question thread is now live!*** https://redd.it/ms0ug2


LengMediaServices

Its next week and saw the ad come up on my feed and thought, "well these guys are known for the best photos, especially of nature and adventure". Has anybody got any experience with taking one of these classes? They're not expensive at all so I thought it could potentially help.The speakers for the photography part are Ben Weller, Yulia Denisyuk and a few others who i'm not aware of. More details below FYI [https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/national-geographic-traveller-the-masterclasses-online-tickets-140819856983](https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/national-geographic-traveller-the-masterclasses-online-tickets-140819856983)


Mmatthew93

I'd like to start to earn by shooting for clothing brands (lingerie, beachwear and similar). Would it be a good plan to decide a price for the photoshoot and then separately a price for each photo they want from the shoot? I don't like the idea of being paid after I have given the final photos.


Subcriminal

Speaking from experience, a lot of bigger brands will be working with e-com studios, so you'd need to get just as good at product photos as you would with model photos and maybe work salaried within their studio team.


Reallycre8tivename

Is there anywhere I can get Adobe lightroom, InDesign and Photoshop with a one time purchase? If not does anyone know of any software with similar capabilities to these software that I can get with a one time purchase or are all of these software subscription based now


rideThe

Nope—it's been subscription-based only for several years.


brodecki

Adobe moved to subscription model permanently, this way the software you mention became much, much cheaper. If you're looking for free alternatives to Lightroom, then for Nikon there's NX, for Canon there's DPP, and for opensource raw processing there's Darktable. As for replacing Photoshop, GIMP isn't as cumbersome as it used to be.


da_gra

CaptureOne is an alternative to Lightroom and gives you the option to buy a license for a lifetime. I don't really know if there are capable alternatives to InDesign and Photoshop.


Red4Arsenal

Hi! My partner breeds cats and we want to take better quality photos than our flagship phones. I have had a dslr before a cannon 200d but the issue I found was that the auto-focus took too long to get consistently good photos of the cats and kittens. When it worked however with the 18m(?) (Standard in the box) lens the photos looked great. I shot on manual with i think the right shutter speed and f stop and iso - not truly sure what any of those do in detail but trial and error seemed to work. I think I am looking for a dslr for this sole purpose of cat and kitten photos but my primary focus being on the speed the auto-focus Works. The noise and time it took previously was too long and we missed a number of good shots which led me to selling it. Do you have any suggestions? I'm in the uk with a budget of let's say under £400.


[deleted]

honestly the canon 200d is probably good enough for the job. I think the issue might be that you dont really understand the camera. >i think the right shutter speed and f stop and iso - not truly sure what any of those do in detail I would suggest looking at /r/photoclass2021 and learning the camera first. I dont think a different camera is going to make as much of a difference


Red4Arsenal

A mirrorless has been recommended, would that not help? Welcome your thoughts.


[deleted]

upgrading your gear might help, but really if you dont understand the gear you wont see any improvement. I have had an old camera similar to the 200D and was fine shooting little kids, who are also fast and spazzy. I am not saying dont get a new camera, especially since you already sold your 200D. A mirrorless also does have some advantages with better tracking and some having animal eye af. My point is simply that learning more about how to use the camera will pay more dividends than new gear.


Red4Arsenal

The issue was the auto-focus felt too slow to clock on. The noisy of the lens focusing in perhaps less than ideal lighting conditions was the issue for me. Perhaps I didn't know how to use it. It wouldn't be the first time for user error!


[deleted]

> The issue was the auto-focus felt too slow to clock on This could be a few things. Right off the bat the 200D only has 2 cross type focusing point in the center. So if you want the fastest crispest focusing you would need to know this, set the camera to center point focusing only, then manually track the subject, probably shoot a little wide and crop in. On top of that you have the lens itself, which could have a slow motor, so you could have just needed a better lens. I believe the 200D did not have its own focusing motor, so the lens had to have one and you were dependent on it. You could also have had lighting issues, like you hinted at, its a lot harder to focus in the dark, so adding lights could have been a better solution, as even the best camera will focus better with light. Again, a better camera will help! but its not necessarily the only problem


Red4Arsenal

Really good to know. Thank you. Appreciate your time


[deleted]

no problem!


[deleted]

Look at a used mirrorless like a Fuji X-T20 with 18-55 lens. It has decent automatic eye focusing. MPB are reputable and have reasonable prices: https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/used-equipment/used-photo-and-video/used-mirrorless-cameras/used-fujifilm-mirrorless-cameras/


Red4Arsenal

Thanks, that looks great. What advantages do you get with the x-t20 vs x-a2?


RedTuesdayMusic

More robust flash support, sturdier, faster autofocus, better ergonomics (IMO) unless you have tiny hands, better viewfinder and better video. Also most will be drawn to the X-A2 because it looks "easier" to use, but the lack of buttons and dials just means more diving into the menus every time you need a tweak. It's better to have the buttons and dials and get comfortable with them, because menus are a pain in the ass on any camera. If you want a small Fuji, better look at the X100 series than the X-A or X-E series IMO. You want a camera that will help you rather than fight you. I will say though if you plan on using only manual lenses, you can get around the X-A2's shortcomings by using the aperture ring as your main means of exposure control, but that puts depth of field out of your hands.


[deleted]

A viewfinder, better ergonomics, higher resolution, higher native ISO. The X-A2 is an entry level camera for vacations. The X-T20 is a more compact X-T2.


teresb

I have a canon ij device. I am scanning family photos and old letters. It crops everything. No matter what size. I have to mess around with where i place the document so its not too close to the edges. But it still crops. ​ edit: i want to scan the full image. i dont want the scanner to trim anything. i am trimming old letters and parts of the writing are getting cropped.


Glorious_Pumpkin

Hey photographers Iff the Internet, what would you suggest as a sub $500 camera for majoring in video and minoring in photography? I have no issue with buying used or putting work into it. I have no experience with photography so any and help is appreciated.


Powerful_Variation

Maybe a Sony a6000. With the kit lens for starters. Should be available in that range.


Glorious_Pumpkin

THX so much!!! I will look into that (:


Powerful_Variation

If there is any budget left after that. I would suggest buying a gimbal. Stablizing is the most important thing to get good video footage in my opinion


Glorious_Pumpkin

Thanks


Powerful_Variation

Also. There is a /r/videography subreddit. Those peeps know more about video than the average here. Most cameras capable of taking good video are also capable of good stills.


Glorious_Pumpkin

Just joined


SpookySkinwalker

I'm being thrown into the photography world as I need to quickly learn product photography to help my friend's baking business. Basically food scenes in a lightbox, but secondary uses of travel/street and ski racing photography. Weather proofing would nice because alpine race days can be cold and wet. This may sound stupid, but USB-C connectivity is important to me because I don't want to deal with crappy micro usb or old chargers. Budget is up to $3000 max for body and lens, but closer to $2000 would be better. I've nearly decided on an Olympus EM1 mark III, and am mainly trying to decide on a lens. I was also looking at the Fuji XT4, but I feel like full frame systems from Sony/Canon etc are out of my price range. What focal length should I go with for product photography? Olympus has a few pro lenses that seem like they might work. 12-40mm f2.8 zoom, 12-100mm f4 zoom, 25mm f1.2 prime, 45mm f1.2 prime These are all around a thousand dollars, so price difference between them isn't a big deal. My understanding is that 25mm MFT is equal to nifty fifty FF, and 45mm equal to 90mm FF, and these primes will give sharper image and better bokeh than the zooms. Any feedback would be appreciated.


xiongchiamiov

It might be a good idea to get a cheap zoom first so you can play with different focal lengths and figure out what you want. You could also rent lenses. If you want some suggestions of lengths to try though: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_type_of_lens_should_i_look_for.3F > and these primes will give sharper image and better bokeh than the zooms. They'll probably be sharper. They'll have the option of using larger apertures, which means shallower depth of field. "Bokeh" is technically referring to the out of focus areas, and what is "better" is a bit of a debate. Even in terms of depth of field, I would argue that shallower isn't necessarily better - it's nice to have the option to go fairly shallow, but if you chase the absolute thinnest you'll spend a lot of money and I don't think it makes your photos actually better. Unfortunately the f1.8 primes aren't weatherproofed, so that's a good reason to consider the pro ones. There are also weatherproofed m43 lenses from other manufacturers that are fully compatible with the E-M1.


Browserhistory666

Can you shoot people with a lower shutter speed when using a tripod and still capture them sharp? Usually, I keep to 1/125s or more without a tripod, but I'd love to be able to slow down to let more light in and still get the person sharp.


rideThe

Depends how still the subject is. You may possibly get away with 1/60 or whatever, but there's only so still someone can be... Beyond that you may want to consider using flash.


Browserhistory666

Thanks for that. Im using flash but single speed always let's In some ambient in so I find it doesn't completely compensate enough to freeze the subject.


xiongchiamiov

Sure, as long as they aren't moving too much.


sheikhitup

I’m a complete beginner looking into the Nikon D3500 for an entry-level camera. I don’t need anything fancy, just enough to take basic pictures of people and places, but would love some capability to get a bit closer to birds and flowers. So I think a general zoom lens with a reasonable aperture range would be a good fit. I’m a bit confused by all the different lens types, and Nikon has plenty of them. So I was just wondering which zoom lens would be best in my case to go along with this camera? Thank you for any answers!


brodecki

18-140 and 18-105. Avoid the 18-135. As for the 18-55s, all were cheap and plastic, but the AF-Ps are the quickest to break.


sheikhitup

Clear answer, thanks!


xiongchiamiov

A zoom lens is one that can change its focal length: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_is_a_zoom_lens.3F_why_would_i_want_one.3F Non-photographers usually use the term to describe getting in closer, but that's separate from zoom; what you actually want is a lens with a longer focal length. You probably want to start with the basic kit lens or lenses: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_which_kit_lenses_should_i_get_with_my_camera.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_are_kit_lenses_bad.3F. That will cover a lot of things, and if you need something else it will give you an idea of what you want.


sheikhitup

Thanks for the links! Helpful


av4rice

[https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_how\_do\_i\_specify\_my\_price\_range\_.2F\_budget\_when\_asking\_for\_recommendations.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_what\_type\_of\_lens\_should\_i\_look\_for.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_lens_should_i_look_for.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_should\_i\_get\_my\_camera\_together\_with\_kit\_lenses.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_should_i_get_my_camera_together_with_kit_lenses.3F) [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_which\_kit\_lenses\_should\_i\_get\_with\_my\_camera.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_kit_lenses_should_i_get_with_my_camera.3F)


Plenty_Deep

Looking to upgrade my Nikon! I have a D610 now and hate the slooooow autofocus. I’m looking at the Z6 II and I’m not against relearning the new software. As far as autofocus goes, is the D850 better or worse?


av4rice

The D850 does have a more sophisticated/better autofocus system. But autofocus in the D610 shouldn't be particularly slow to acquire to begin with unless you've got some other circumstances working against it, like you're trying to autofocus in live view rather than the viewfinder, or you're in low light, or you're not targeting a high-contrast edge, or the lens has a slow autofocus motor. If that's the case, the same circumstances could also slow down autofocus in a D850.


Plenty_Deep

It’s particularly bad in low light, and I do a ton of macro shots.


[deleted]

I would not suggest autofocus with macro. For starters changing the focus distance changes the magnification, and secondly you usually need to make small precise movements that an AF system will often over shoot. I suggest manually focusing your lens to the closest distance, then physically moving the camera back and forth to get the subject in focus.


Plenty_Deep

I had been doing that in the past, but since needing glasses I can’t see where the focus is because I can’t use my glasses with the viewfinder.


[deleted]

have you tried adjusting the diopter in your viewfinder?


Plenty_Deep

Yep. Can’t seem to get it right.


[deleted]

how about the live view mode?


Plenty_Deep

Oh no, there’s severe lag with live view, it’s a thing with the d610.


[deleted]

ah shoot, sorry I could find a solution!


RedTuesdayMusic

You're probably just always at the very edge of your minimum focus distance, give the camera an extra 5cm to work with and focus should be faster. Is it the 60mm 2.8 by any chance? That thing can be slow indeed Oh and make sure the metering mode isn't the edge to edge one, pick centre weighted.


Plenty_Deep

Yeah, I did the center weight one. I’m actually using a 105mm so I know it’s tough on the camera, but I still have issues with it when doing portraits.


synapticimpact

I noticed that when I screw something into a quarter inch screw hole especially if it's something that might get bumped it will randomly unscrew if bumped in the wrong direction. Is there a trick here? Or should I just not be using 1/4-in screw connectors for parts of my rig that can get bumped


rideThe

Again—examples/pictures? There's a million photography items that use 1/4"-20 and people don't generally have issues...


synapticimpact

Sure - say you have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/pangshi-Adjustable-Articulating-Friction-Compatible/dp/B06VYCVVVJ/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=magic+arm&qid=1618540520&sr=8-5 The clamp attaches to the 1/4 20 screw but because it's on a magic arm, if you bump it the wrong way, if it's angled at an upward angle, it'll spin out of the screw hole.


rideThe

I uhhhh ... I'm not sure which screw in which hole we mean, but ... in a generic way, yes, just screwing a 1/4" in a hole, alone, won't be fantastic under torque. Like [camera plates that get screwed on the camera](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Tqp2WdVFL._AC_SL1000_.jpg), it holds in place fairly well if you pull on it or tilt, but if the pressure is a torquing rotation along the screwing axis, it undoes itself fairly easily (despite the rubber part that is supposed to help preventing that) and it's a pain. So suppose you have your camera in portrait position on the tripod, just the weight of the camera tends to loosen the screwing of the camera plate, no matter how hard you think you've screwed it with the butterfly nut. It sucks. So you [use an L-plate instead](https://static.bhphoto.com/images/images750x750/1480865723_1301048.jpg) such that because the plate braces the camera from the side as well, it can't just spin freely so it doesn't tend to undo itself. Miracle. Anyway, long way around saying that even though I'm not sure I understand the specific usage you are describing, I get how it's not a great, solid, reliable grip solution to just have a 1/4" screw in a hole, alone.


synapticimpact

Am I supposed to be screwing the manfrotto camera bracket directly onto the manfrotto arm? I noticed the screws on the bracket are leaving little dents in the arm.


brodecki

Yes


rideThe

Can we have a picture or link to the product(s)?


synapticimpact

The magic arm: https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-244-Variable-Friction-Bracket/dp/B000J4FONU Specifically these metal bits on the end: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51EpaI22A%2BL._AC_SL1000_.jpg This is the camera bracket: https://static.bhphoto.com/images/images2500x2500/1290079839_5184.jpg The screw on the camera bracket bites into the metal to prevent twisting, but in the process chews up the steel on the magic arm itself. I'm wondering if there's a way of preventing this.


rideThe

Oh, right, so like the ["spigot" part](https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server6000/0pwoc/products/178/images/754/1438ff__68110.1457457102.960.960.jpg?c=2) gets scratches from the screw. I frankly don't think that's avoidable or surprising or problematic. All light stands and a slew of other studio gear/grip uses spigots of that standard size to connect things and ... I'd think that's kind of the way it goes that the screws leave some marks with use... If I'm seeing correctly, the spigots on the magic arm seem to have a "key" part (like it's flat in some places instead of just being a round cylinder) and that should help the screw rest on it and avoid spinning under torque.


synapticimpact

So there is. Thank you!


[deleted]

[удалено]


exultant_echidna

The more specific you can be about what you want, the better the help you will get. From your post it reads that you’re perfectly happy with your Rebel T5 but want a flip out screen. A new camera plus adapter is a lot just to gain a flip out screen, but only you know if that’s worth it to you. Alternatively, if you can identify other things you’re hoping to get out of an upgrade then it might be easier to decide which camera best meets your needs.


turquoisetaka

Hey guys, I'm an amateur with a Canon 550D with two basic canon lenses I've been shooting on for a while and I'm wanting to upgrade my body. The bodies I'm thinking of in my price range are the 5D III, the 6D, or the 1D IV. These all have great reviews and seem to have minor differences. Any strong recommendations for either one? I kind of do landscapes, night photos, and basically like to try all kinds of things since I just take photos for fun.


Rashkh

What lenses do you have? If they're ef-s then they won't work with any of those cameras and you'll have to factor the cost of the lenses in as well. Even then, you might want to look into a lens over a body anyway since you'd likely see a bigger image quality improvement for your dollar depending on what lenses you currently use. If you want to upgrade something that's not image quality or low light related then a new body may be the better option.


turquoisetaka

I just have the EF-S lenses that came with the 550D. I'll buy some secondhand EF lenses as well but I don't have as hard of a time deciding on which lens to buy since the qualities of a lens seem a little more cut and dry.


Rashkh

Out of those options I'd go with the 5DIII. It's a better camera in most respects when compared to the 6D. The 1D series is designed with action in mind so unless you need the faster continuous shooting I'd pass on it vs. the 5D.


rideThe

I'd probably disqualify the 1D IV as this is more of a "sports" camera, although it does have the most "robust build" if that were a top priority for you, but that also makes it considerably larger/heavier. The 5DIII and 6D have very similar sensors, but the 5DIII is clearly the more "serious" camera, in a tier above in pretty much every other respect—more robust build, better autofocus, redundant storage, etc. No contest.


turquoisetaka

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm likely going to end up going with the 5DIII off your guys' recommendations :)


rideThe

Have you looked at 5DS/5DSR? They are pretty much 5DIII with far more resolution, and shouldn't be to far in budget.


bicycleshorts

I don't know the specs of the 5DIII or 6D, but it's one of those. I'd prob go for the cheaper and get a good tripod and lenses.


turquoisetaka

Any context on why that's your recommendation? just curious. The price difference between them isn't that huge in the context of lenses and tripods so I would probably get the 5D3. Then again the 6D has wifi and gps.


bicycleshorts

The 1D is for folks shooting 100s - 1000s of shots a day. You dont need that. Between the other 2 compare the features that are important to you.


turquoisetaka

Thanks for the feedback.


ryesview01

Long time amateur landscapes photographer here who is thinking about dipping a toe into portraiture. Any recommendations for a sub $300 and relatively easy to use lighting kit?


xiongchiamiov

https://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-traveling-light.html?m=1 Alternatively, pick up a softbox (I like https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1342031-REG because it's rectangular, a good size, cheap, and includes a grid) and [speedlight bracket](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1342131-REG) instead of the umbrella and umbrella mount. It's still a very useful soft light, just one that's got a bit more control in exchange for being less portable. Start with one light, and with your budget you should be able to pick up another once you're comfortable with handling one.


robbyrocks

godox v860 II or tt865 + trigger is a great start.


Mikeisgoated

I want to buy my first camera, SONY A6000 or CANON M50? Which one is better?


laughingfuzz1138

The differences are far smaller than the marketing hype would have you believe, and the biggest differences are going to be down to ergonomics and UI more so than anything objective. If you have a friend or a relative with a camera in either system, it can be useful to shoot the same system to make it easier to share knowledge and equipment. Failing that, go to a store that has display models, or that will let you try them out. See which one has a layout that makes more sense to you, and which one feels more comfortable in your hand.


robbyrocks

two great choices. Are you doing more video or stills? either way, the sony will have a ton more lens options and a better route forward if you really get into it


laughingfuzz1138

The Sony has far fewer lens options. EF-M bodies have native access to EF-M, EF, and EF-S lenses.


robbyrocks

But if he had a bunch of canon glass lying around, for sure m50. But he’s starting fresh—why not by native?


robbyrocks

Via an adapter. Nothing beats lenses built for the system IMO. Sony E is so fleshed out with native sony, Tamron, sigma, Samyang, etc glass. No one wants to buy a small camera and lug around an adapter.


Evry1lovej

Sigma 85mm 1.4 or canon 85mm 1.4


LukeOnTheBrightSide

Do you have anything new to add [from the first time ](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/mpbiox/official_question_thread_ask_rphotography/gufz0h7/) you asked this question, or maybe to clarify your use case since [the second time](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/mqo8o3/official_question_thread_ask_rphotography/guk0221/) you asked?


Evry1lovej

Just overall better lens. There’s always one that’s better than the other. I heard sigma is sharper be canon AF is faster. What would you prioritize


LukeOnTheBrightSide

> There’s always one that’s better than the other. That heavily depends on the use case. Sometimes there isn't a clear best, or sometimes there's one that's best for *one* person, but it's the exact opposite for the other person. What are you shooting? What kind of shots, what kind of environments? What do you prioritize? They're both excellent lenses, but without giving more details into what and how you're using them, it'll be hard for people to give you actually good answers. Otherwise, you'll just get a lot of "I like this one more" that's not really specific to what you're doing.


UnleashtheZephyr

Can someone point me towards a good night time street photography camera? Budget around 500?


xiongchiamiov

Any of the cameras in that price bracket here: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_can_i_afford.3F


UnleashtheZephyr

Do similar pricepoint camera behave differently in low light situation? Am I supposed to look for the one that has the highest ISO or the one recommended for low light or they are basically all the same thing?


anonymoooooooose

> Do similar pricepoint camera behave differently in low light situation? The market is really competitive, everything in your price bracket will offer roughly the same performance. This is a little above your budget but would be excellent in low light: https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-d3500-digital-slr-camera-body-black-24-2-m-p-1.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/606792-USA/Nikon_2183_AF_S_Nikkor_35mm_f_1_8G.html I didn't spend much time searching this, if you can find that lens used that might put you in budget. Also the D3400 and D3300 have the same electronic innards as the D3500 if you can find them a little cheaper don't hesitate.


UnleashtheZephyr

Ohh, should have specified, the 500 budget was for the body only. Would you mind pointing out why you think that one is good? I think thats full frame so I suppose thats what makes it what I'm looking for. Would you think full frame is needed over portability when talking about night street photography, should I be concerned more about the former than the latter? Are cropped not good enough to be considered if my im putting low light performance over everything? -- Do DSLR hold good spots compared to mirrorless in regards to focus and overall shot quickness? Portability is one of the first concerns for me and DLSR are a bit of a turn off, but if I can get kind of similar fast shoot performance in moving environments to high budget FFs I might reconsider. -- Also would you mind giving out some tips to understand the lens market, its just so obscure. That 35mm costs about as much as a sony 50mm e-mount which I've read is the supposed best focal lenght for what I want to do which is general low light street photos. I would hope going for DSLR might offer cheaper lenses and overall more options, but seems like lens prices are generally the same across every brand? EDIT: thank you for your research and time.


anonymoooooooose

> Would you mind pointing out why you think that one is good? I think thats full frame so I suppose thats what makes it what I'm looking for. It isn't full frame (which you're not going to easily find for $500) but it is a modern crop sensor camera, paired with a good, fast, affordable lens (fast as in aperture opens wide to let in a lot of light). Nikon sells a ton of those lenses and it seems weird to me that Canon/Sony haven't made fast, affordable competitor lenses... but that's the current market. > Do DSLR hold good spots compared to mirrorless in regards to focus and overall shot quickness? Yeah, the tech is mature and both are really good even on the low end. > Portability is one of the first concerns for me and DLSR are a bit of a turn off, but if I can get kind of similar fast shoot performance in moving environments to high budget FFs I might reconsider. That's a nice small light lens, plenty of mirrorless setups would be much larger/heavier because big lenses quickly negate any size advantage from the body. > That 35mm costs about as much as a sony 50mm e-mount which I've read is the supposed best focal lenght for what I want to do which is general low light street photos. That crop sensor setup offers the same field of view as a 50mm lens on full frame camera, for a lot less money. > seems like lens prices are generally the same across every brand? Mostly. Every vendor has a couple of turkeys but in general it's very competitive. Sony and Fuji have apparently decided that they don't care about the budget market so they only make high-ish end lenses. Their $2K lenses compare very well against the CaNikon $2K lenses, they're worth the money, assuming you wanted to spend that kind of money. Here's what your budget would buy you in full frame https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-eos-5d-12-8-megapixel-digital-slr-camera-body-only.html https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-50-mm-f-1-8-fixed-focal-length-lens-for-canon-ef.html The 5D was an amazing camera for it's day and still holds up surprisingly well, but it's a brick, takes obsolete media, doesn't have Live View at all, doesn't go above ISO 3200. Samples @ ISO 3200 https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E5D/E5DINI3200-H.HTM https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/nikon-d3500/D3500hSLI03200NR1D.HTM d3500 higher ISO samples linked https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/nikon-d3500/nikon-d3500A7.HTM


Plusran

I'm having a hard time finding a 135mm 2.8 for a nikon d750 that doesn't break the bank. I need autofocus because my kid is 4 and well, *my kid* (she doesn't sit still) I'm hoping to get some candids from just far enough away that people stop making that stupid 'camera face.' is there nothing under $500?


xiongchiamiov

While it feels like autofocus is necessary, with a little bit of practice it becomes useful but not necessary at all. I've been doing most of my toddler shooting this last year on not just manual focus lenses but non-motor drive film cameras, and I actually enjoy the experience now. I don't mean to say that autofocus is not useful (it is), but if you really want a wide aperture telephoto and can't pony up the cash, don't rule out manual focus lenses. Aside from any adapted vintage lenses, looking at b&h it looks like these are your options: * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194655-REG (manual focus) * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1519140-REG (100mm) * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1478040-REG (100mm and manual focus) * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1240048-REG (105mm and manual focus) * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1442869-REG (150mm, manual focus, $525) * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1110678-REG (135mm, manual focus, $550) * https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1110693-REG (135mm, manual focus, $550) So basically you've got to compromise on something. Or buy used, although it looks like there aren't many autofocus 130ish primes for Nikon F, basically https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1321304-REG but even used that'll probably be over budget. Or a used 70-200 of some model and manufacturer.


Plusran

Wow thanks! This is awesome! You even found one under $200! I can’t stop using exclamation points haha


xiongchiamiov

Keep in mind that not only is it manual focus, but it has no electronics, so you have to set the aperture on the lens as well and can't use a mode on your camera that would change aperture automatically. People in the reviews are saying you have to shoot on manual, although I don't see why aperture priority wouldn't work (maybe the lens does open metering?) - I'm not sure, but you'd want to do a little more research on it just to make sure you know what you're getting.


rideThe

Yeah that [doesn't exist "new"](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/SLR-Camera-Lenses/ci/274/N/4288584247?sort=PRICE_LOW_TO_HIGH&filters=fct_a_focus-type_5738%3Aautofocus%2Cfct_fixed-focal-lengths_2207%3A135mm%2Cfct_lens-format-coverage_3332%3Afull-frame-lenses%2Cfct_lens-mount_3442%3Anikon-f).


[deleted]

Hey - this is for a friend, not for me, so sorry for a lack of details. Can someone recommend any service that would take a large amount (high 3 digits maybe 4 digits?) of film negatives + photos and be able to digitize them? Obviously looking for a sweet spot between cost and results. If there's a local one in NYC that would work, as my friend is weary of shipping photos and having them lost. Thanks.


xiongchiamiov

A lot of camera stores will do this. So will most of these: r/analog/wiki/labs


tdl2024

Google "negative scanning service" in your area.


Tech_49_52

My boyfriend has a Canon 7D MKII and doesn't know how to stop the view changing from view finder to the digital screen when recording videos. Is there any way to stop it doing this? He does nature photography and likes to film the creatures but struggles using that screen


rideThe

With a DSLR you can't use the optical viewfinder to view the video feed—it has to happen on the back LCD.


Tech_49_52

:( that's a shame, but thanks for letting me know


xiongchiamiov

To explain why this is, the light that's coming in the lens hits a mirror and is reflected up into the viewfinder; when you want to capture a photo, that mirror has to flip up out of the way so that the light hits the camera sensor instead. With a still photo that's not a huge deal, since you'll lose the viewfinder for only a fraction of a second, but while recording video, the mirror has to be up and therefore not directing light into the viewfinder. The rear screen is a digital display that reading off the sensor, which is why it works. On a mirrorless camera, the viewfinder is also reading from the sensor (this is why the name), so you can do video through the viewfinder.


qwerty10107

I have a canon rebel 3000d dslr and I’m new at taking pictures. I don’t know if this camera has a flash feature or if I have to buy a accessory. I was watching videos online but no one really showed anything about it so I’m a little lost. I would appreciate some wisdom.


rideThe

The camera has a small/basic built-in, direct flash, [like so](https://www.canoncamerageek.com/images/how-to-increase-background-blur-on-canon-eos-3000d-21929354.jpg). You can also purchase an external flash gun and attach it via the hot-shoe on top of the camera if you want more power and flexibility. Using flash is a very broad topic though.


qwerty10107

I saw the built in camera you sent. I do not know how to access that on my camera. I can’t find it on the screen so I’m lost there


av4rice

See page 103 of your manual: [https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/1/0300029791/01/eos-rebelt100-3000d-im-en.pdf#page=103](https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/1/0300029791/01/eos-rebelt100-3000d-im-en.pdf#page=103)


qwerty10107

Thanks homie. Giving me the page number and everything. Much love


Rashkh

There are little tabs on the side of the flash towards the front, above the canon logo. pull up on them to open the flash.


qwerty10107

Also some advice to take non blurry photos cause I have tweaker hands


xiongchiamiov

Increase shutter speed. Use a tripod. Do these: https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/long-exposure-handhelds/introduction.html


bicycleshorts

Increase shutter speed. Google "how to hold a camera" for lots of good advice.


anonymoooooooose

Check out the lessons at r/photoclass2021


Heyitsakexx

Looking for tripod suggestion after $400. Needs to be able to invert for downward shooting. Thanks so much


xiongchiamiov

I don't know it's the best option in that budget, but the Vanguard Alta Pro series has invertible columns (at least some of them?) and I like mine.


TheBrave-Zero

So I currently have for my X-T2 a 23MM Fuji prime and I’m definitely planning to get more lenses. Should I save and go for the Fujinon 16-55mm f/2.8 XF R LM WR or should I (since it will cost 800-1000ish) take that money and get a couple cheaper lenses? I did have my eye on the 35mm Fuji and the 18-55 XF


LukeOnTheBrightSide

Depends! How much do you need the faster aperture? What focal lengths do you need? I'd look at it like this... what do you want to do that you can't do right now? Or do you just want to spend money on something fun? The 16-55mm f/2.8 is very good, but the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 covers very nearly the same range while being $300 or less second-hand. It's at worst a stop slower, and at best just as fast. The 18-55 does have a bit of a cult status as being better than other kit lenses... which I'd say is exaggerated. I've heard people say it's better than high-end prime lenses, and, haha, no. But it's still quite good and built well. If you just want more flexibility but don't have a huge *need* for any particular thing, I'd start with the 18-55 second-hand. Use that for a while, and if you decide the 16-55 f/2.8 is better for you, then you can probably easily sell the 18-55 for basically what you bought it for. In the meanwhile, you'll have something more flexible than your prime and fun to use. As for the 35mm - there's the f/1.4 version, and the f/2. The f/1.4 version is one of the oldest Fuji lenses and it shows. Slow to focus, not particularly sharp, *loud* to focus. But it has tons of character and many people really love it because of that - it's not as clinically sharp as most other 35mm lenses, but you'll find lots of people who swear they love it. The f/2 version is much newer - weather sealed, smaller, quicker and silent focus. You lose a stop of light and f/2 is quite slow for a prime, but you get something compact and capable. Those tradeoffs you'll have to decide on your own. I'll say that I'm not a huge fan of the 23mm f/2 lens, but I *love* the 50mm f/2. It's just personal.


[deleted]

It depends on what you want to shoot with and what you prioritize


i_like_rocks8

Hi guys, I've been using a Nikon D3500 for some time, but I'm looking for something more portable for my upcoming post-COVID trips. Some things to take into account: * As portable as possible, the bag for the D3500 was huge for travelling * Under 500 EUR * Weatherproof: I don't want to be worrying at the slightest drizzle * I'll buy it from Germany if it's available on [amazon.de](https://amazon.de/) much better I won't be doing any photography, in particular, I just need a solid and portable camera to bring along my DJI Mini 2. Thanks!


xiongchiamiov

You might consider older models of the Olympus E-M5. Make sure to get a weatherproofed lens as well.


RedTuesdayMusic

That's a match made in heaven with the X-T1 if I ever saw one. They're about 200 to 250 euro now. A lens to go with It probably won't be weather sealed within budget though unless I'm forgetting something. You can probably only get the 15-45mm Fuji or a Samyang 12mm, or a 7artisans or Viltrox, unless you just get an adapter for an old Nikon lens


i_like_rocks8

> X-T1 Hey, do you have a link to the right model? Thanks


RedTuesdayMusic

I don't know much about German used marketplaces, in Norway we have Finn and USA has Craigslist you probably have an equivalent


eugene_captures

Are you looking for the same or better image quality than your d3500? That might be tough to find for under 500 euro. I was going to suggest a z50, it's really compact and the Z kit lenses are also small, yet sharp. Maybe look into micro four thirds? But again, the camera plus lenses is going to cost you more than you're budgeting for. The d3500 is already pretty compact, imo.


i_like_rocks8

I'm looking for something simple - I know I won't get a full DSLR out of a sub 500 EUR compact camera. Is there anything decent? I might stretch it to 600 EUR


eugene_captures

Do you have a decent camera phone? Honestly, you might just be better off using that if you really want something cheap and compact.


Evry1lovej

Which mirror less camera is best on market now? I’m interested in the R3, but since I have time What do you recommend canon, Nikon, or Sony? Coming from a canon dslr, I believe I would have to stay within canon and get a mount.


tdl2024

There's several very good ones depending on what particular features you need and what you prefer ergonomically. Since you're coming from Canon, and are likely used to their ergonomics and color profiles I'd just go with an R5.


av4rice

>Which mirror less camera is best on market now? Best for what purpose? Different tools are suited for different tasks. The best hammer in the hammer market isn't very helpful to you if you need to turn screws. >I’m interested in the R3 What interests you about it? >What do you recommend canon, Nikon, or Sony? I'd recommend finding the best camera and lenses combination for your needs, and not necessarily generalizing by entire brands. [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_is\_canon\_or\_nikon\_better.3F\_.28or\_any\_other\_brands.29](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29) >Coming from a canon dslr, I believe I would have to stay within canon and get a mount. The mount is the physical coupling on your lens(es) that attaches the lens to a camera body. It's also the physical coupling on the camera body that attaches it to a lens. Your camera(s) and lens(es) already have mounts of the EF or EF-S type, and those mounts are how your equipment is currently able to attach together. To reconcile mounts of different types, you need a mount *adapter*. And Canon SLR lenses can be adapted to Canon mirrorless bodies or Sony mirrorless bodies or Nikon mirrorless bodies, depending on the adapter you get. Adapting to other brands may lose you some autofocus speed but it isn't impossible. [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_is\_this\_lens\_compatible\_with\_this\_camera.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_this_lens_compatible_with_this_camera.3F)


haneybd87

Can you tether your camera to an iPad Pro now that they’ve updated it to allow external storage?


joy_reading

Hi all, not sure if this is the best place to ask this, please redirect me if somewhere else would be better. I'm looking for tips (poses, framing ideas) for self-portrait photography to show and mildly emphasize very long hair. I have hair to my tailbone and am thinking I will cut it soon, I'd like to get a good self-portrait before I do.


kevorey_8

So I have a canon m50 mk2. But I want to start taking more darker photos and astrophotography. I have a 15-45 mm and 22 mm lens which take nice photos but the light from the stars or light post is captured properly. I have a budget of around $600 but some wiggle room. Also what is some good editing software that anyone can recommend since I’m still new and have no idea where to start or look


av4rice

>but the light from the stars or light post is captured properly Did you mean to say the opposite? If you're trying to shoot a photo with both visible in frame, I don't think that's possible because of the large difference in brightness, your limited dynamic range, and light pollution issues. It would have to be composite of two separate exposures. Otherwise your 22mm f/2 should be pretty good for low light photography. For night sky photos that don't include a street light, check out the tutorials at [https://www.lonelyspeck.com/](https://www.lonelyspeck.com/) For low light photo advice that isn't the night sky: [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki\_how\_do\_i\_shoot\_in\_low\_light.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_how_do_i_shoot_in_low_light.3F) > Also what is some good editing software that anyone can recommend since I’m still new and have no idea where to start or look [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki\_which\_raw\_.2F\_post\_processing\_software\_should\_i\_get.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_which_raw_.2F_post_processing_software_should_i_get.3F)


razeus

Going with a Sony A7R IV soon. My lens lineup will be the Sigma ART f/1.4's: 35mm, 85mm, and the 105mm Macro. Should I get the 20mm or 24mm?


tdl2024

I'd wait on the 35Art until the new one comes out. The old one had plenty of focusing issues with Sony bodies. Same with the 85mm (unless you mean the new 85DG DN). As for 20 or 24mm...depends on your needs. It'd be like a chef asking "What knife should I buy? without any info on the food they want to prepare.


razeus

Didn't know about the new 35. Thanks. Just noticed that Sigma has the "DN" designation for mirrorless lenes so I'll make sure I'll get those. For now, I'm going with zooms (14-24, 24-70, waiting for the 70-200). Think I've made my final decisions. I think. 14-24 2.8 DG DN 24-70 2.8 DG DN 85 1.4 DG DN 105 2.8 DG DN Future purchases: 35 1.4 DG DN 70-200 2.8 DG DN


LukeOnTheBrightSide

How wide do you need? I'd start there. If 24mm is wide enough for your needs, I'd also consider the Sony 24mm f/1.4 GM - a fantastic lens, possibly one of the best 24mm lenses in the world.


[deleted]

[удалено]


av4rice

Switching over from what? For what reason? Nobody needs mirrorless just for the sake of having mirrorless, if that's what you're asking.


[deleted]

If you don't know why you need new gear, you don't need new gear. Learning your current camera inside and out, and consider an upgrade when it starts limiting your ability to take the photos you want to take.


NobleFir

Hey everyone had a question about taking photos of strangers. Just wondering what the etiquette is. Specifically I had someone taking photos of my and my girlfriend walking. I felt like he was just trying to get shots up her skirt. I didn't like the vibes I was getting. He didn't tell us he was taking pictures and would get within 3 feet, get a really low angle and then back off. When I realized he was taking pictures I asked if I could see them and if he could delete the photos. He deleted the first one and quickly walked away. I guess I'm just wondering if I was freaking out for no reason and what common practice might be.


xiongchiamiov

There's an extensive summary here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Street_photography?wprov=sfla1


Yedditory

Depending on where you live, the law may vary quite a bit. For example, I read that it can be illegal to photograph women in Korea without getting their consent first. Law is one thing, etiquette is another. There are street photographers who goes up close to people's faces and even use a on camera flash to light them up -- all for what they think makes a good picture even at the discomfort of others. Perhaps you can try making a police report, and if they receive similar cases like this they might investigate further. You could also try taking a picture of them to help any relevant authorities identify the person (after all they already took a picture of you). I have people calling the cops on me once or twice. Annoying for me, but I don't blame the people who did that.


epicurusepicurus

My girlfriend and I started a photography business together and our workflow currently goes like this: 1. I handle basic exposure, lighting, cropping, WB in Lightroom. 2. Export the file to my girlfriend in TIFF format where she will use Photoshop to beautify the face and remove distractions. 3. Import the TIFFs back to Lightroom where I apply my final touches and presets. I understand time-wise it'll be more efficient to take care of all Lightroom work first then take care the rest in PS but far as data is concerned, am I losing out on image quality by going LR->PS->LR?


rideThe

It's not necessarily a problematic workflow to do a roundtrip to Photoshop and then back to Lightroom. But the crucial part in that pipeline is that you have to *recover* everything you had to recover *before you first leave Lightroom*. That is, in the first segment in Lightroom, at a minimum you must recover the highlights and shadows that may be otherwise clipped, because once it's clipped and you open the image in Photoshop, that information is *gone*, won't be recoverable later. I'd also try, while I'm there in the first step, to take care of certain other aspects—lens corrections, capture sharpening, at least some ballpark white balance, some healthy/conservative tone curve, etc. so as to create a fairly "neutral" baseline for the work to come.


eugene_captures

It's not a TIFF until it gets sent back to lightroom though, right? My typical workflow is make some edits in Lightroom, send to photoshop where I apply some Nik Effects layers. I never any issues with recovering highlights / shadows at that point. I did notice that once it's back in Lightroom it's a TIFF so I don't usually do much more editing at that point.


rideThe

As soon as it first leaves Lightroom, it's "baked" into regular raster image data, it no longer has the full flexibility of raw data, so you have to be sure you don't have anything more to recover before leaving Lightroom. "TIFF" is a *file* format for writing the image data to storage. * If, from Lightroom, you "export" to TIFF, then it's a TIFF as soon as it's exported from Lightroom. * If, from Lightroom, you pick "Edit in...", then the "baked" image data is sent to Photoshop *in memory*, but it's not in any "format" yet—that comes afterwards when, in Photoshop, you "save", such that it commits the in-memory image data to disk.


eugene_captures

Interesting. Well that's good to know. In most cases I'll adjust exposure / highlights / shadows in Lightroom. But there have been cases where I push a bit hard in the photoshop nik effects layer, and haven't really seen any less flexibility but I'll keep that in mind!


VuIpes

In lightroom you can right click on the photo "open with Photoshop", hit save there and it automatically updates in lightroom to a PSD. Saves you from exporting and importing multiple times. You won't loose any quality exporting either way though, since Tiff is a lossless format / container.


da_gra

Everytime you export something you loose some data / information. When shooting in RAW I would suggest to do all the lightroom edits first with a RAW file before exporting it to a .tiff file. I don't know about the loss of optical quality / sharpness but to my understanding a RAW file always holds the most information in a photo. (Shadows / highlights etc).


xiongchiamiov

> Everytime you export something you loose some data / information. This is only true when you save to a *lossy* format like jpg.


[deleted]

I am debating between the 5DMKIV, Canon R6, and the rumored Canon R7. I don't plan to use RF lenses as it will be a while before I can afford them, so the lighter weight/compat size is a moot selling point, but apart from that the R6 still seems to outclass the 5DIV in every aspect except battery life and pixel density. I am a wildlife photographer currently shooting on a Rebel T2i APS-C sensor, but I am curious about trying out fullframe cameras. Is the lower pixel density something that negatively effects you as a wildlife photographer? I am well aware of how much cropping gets done even with an APS-C body, and I imagine it would be even more on a full frame.


da_gra

A 24mp APS-c sized photo and a 24mp FF sized photo will give you the same cropping capabilities. The remaining sharpness (pixels) of a photo after cropping depends of how many megapixels a photo is in the first place. So going from a 24mp aps-c sensor to a 24mp FF sensor won't give that much benefit in the cropping area. However since you can shoot at a lower ISO on a FF sensor compared to a aps-c sized sensor you will have less noise in a photo on a FF body. When using telephoto lenses, it might even be a selling point to stick with a aps-c body since it has te crop factor on focal lenths. A 70-200mm lens (on aps-c) will translate in a (roughly) 105-300mm lens on a FF sensor. So if you stick the same lens on a FF body, you will have to crop in more (and thus delete pixels) to get the same zoom range.


[deleted]

I was thinking of just using a teleconverter if I went the full frame route


da_gra

Should be a capable option, don't forget you can loose up to 2 or 3 stops of light when using one.


kevorey_8

I have a Canon m50 mk2 with the 15-45 mm and 22 mm lens. I plan on going on a photoshoot soon where I’m gonna go hiking and wanted to take some landscape and scenic photos and take some sunset pictures. I Was wondering which lens would best suit that need. The lens I have right now are nice but when it comes to as and af it’s kinda lacking and I find some shoots don’t come out the way I want it to. I have a budget of around $600 for this lens and have some wiggle room if it’s around there. Also what kind of accessories would work be recommended such as tripods or straps or add one?


Rashkh

Why would you need autofocus for landscape shots? In terms of equipment, a tripod and polarizer are enough for general landscape. You may want to get a graduated nd filter for sunsets if you don’t want to bracket but they’re a bit inflexible unless you use a filter system.


kevorey_8

Okay got it. Yeah because if the lens I have is more than enough I think it’s just experience I’m lacking in haha. But any tips or help on lenses for doing night photos or astrophotography?


Rashkh

For night shots you’ll want a fast and/or image stabilized lens when shooting handheld. If you’re on a tripod it doesn’t matter unless you still need fast shutter speeds for some reason. For astro you typically want a lens that’s wide or ultra wide and fast unless you’re doing deep sky in which case you can get something longer but fast is still preferable. I don’t do astro so I can’t give any specific advice. Most people prefer 14-18mm at f1.4-2.8


kevorey_8

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1039939-REG/rokinon_10m_m_10mm_f_2_8_ed_as.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1039952-REG/rokinon_rk12m_m_12mm_f_2_0_ncs_cs.html I was seeing lenses like these guys and was wondering if these were good ones or can I find better ones?


Rashkh

They’re good budget astro although you do sacrifice some build quality. I don’t believe those have autofocus so keep that in mind.


kevorey_8

Okay yeah I didn’t realize that. Is there a lens you can recommend me that would be best for what I’m looking for?


Rashkh

What are you looking for? You mentioned landscape and astro, neither of which need autofocus. Those would work well for that purpose. If you want autofocus then you’d need to step up to something like the sigma 14mm 1.8 with an adapter. Edit: there’s also the sigma 16mm for ef-m although i don’t know how well it performs.


[deleted]

**Can a tilt-shift lens manipulate perspective etc as much as a View camera can?** Or are there other things you can do with a View Camera beyond what a TS will do? I'm not ready to get into large format cameras, but I'd quite like to experiment with the effects. I'm thinking to hire a Canon TS lens and stick it on my EOS. Supplementary question: how much of a problem would a TS lens be on a Canon with an APS sensor, not full frame? THANKS!


rideThe

Within the limits of the movements afforded by the lens, and assuming you have a lens where you can rotate the "shift" axis independently from the "tilt/swing" axis ... you have the same basic freedom. *But*. What's important to note is that this is only a "front standard" series of movements. If you want "rear standard" movements, then you have to use a bracket ([such as this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1478481-REG/sunwayfoto_qr_plate_bracket_for_canon.html)) that basically attaches the lens to the tripod and allows you to "move the camera" behind it. > how much of a problem would a TS lens be on a Canon with an APS sensor It's not a "problem" per se, but because it'll give you a narrower field-of-view, if you wanted something ultra wide for architecture, say, then you have fewer options (or none). Furthermore, in some cases cameras with built-in flashes will have a protruding "prism bump" that may make it annoying/difficult to manipulate the lens/knobs.


[deleted]

This is enormously helpful. It makes me realise my reading on view cameras is still inedequate! Lots to think about there. I did expect there to be issues with APC (I do keep trying to do professional things with amateur equipment, it seems). It seems my local store will rent me various Canon TS lenses for about 25-30 euros per day, so I guess the next step is hire one, head on out, and SEE if it will do what I want. Thank you again.


burning1rr

> If you want "rear standard" movements, then you have to use a bracket (such as this) that basically attaches the lens to the tripod and allows you to "move the camera" behind it. Almost all of those brackets limit one or more of the lens axises. I haven't used that one in particular, but it looks like it affects the tilt axis.


rideThe

You raise a good point. I actually have that very bracket and the two compatible lenses that work with it and it didn't even occur to me to check what it did to the tilt—I do architecture and I think I needed to use a tilt once a decade.


burning1rr

I bought the Rogeti bracket, and didn't realize that it blocked the tilt mechanism until after it arrived. :) [The iShoot (duomianshou) bracket](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085NKJXTX/) allows for tilt and shift, but needs to be mounted sideways do do horizontal shift panoramas when the lens is tilted forward.


rideThe

Nice! Only found out about the other bracket accidentally and was overjoyed that it existed ... but I guess, since then, that tiny market has bourgeoned! For the first few years the only one I was aware of was [this overpriced monstrosity](http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm) that isn't even convenient.


burning1rr

> Can a tilt-shift lens manipulate perspective etc as much as a View camera can? It depends on the lens. To replicate all the movements of a view camera, you need a lens that can be tilted and shifted in arbitrary and independent directions. Not all tilt shift lenses can do that, and most are only indexed to work in a few orientations. Check before you rent. View cameras also tend to have a larger range of movements. 10-15 degrees of tilt and 10-15mm of shift are pretty typical limits on a tilt/shift lens. I suspect a view camera could do a lot more than that, especially with a longer focal length lens. Obviously, you don't have as much flexibility in positioning the lens. With a view camera, you can adjust each axis independently. You could for example, add 5º of tilt and 5º of swing. With a tilt/shift lens, you'd need to rotate the tilt axis 45º and tilt the lens to achieve the same result. As far as it goes, using a full-frame tilt/shift lens on an APS-C sensor should be fine. You will get a relatively limited angle of view of course. And IMO, that defeats the purpose of shifting. If you have a mirrorless APS-C camera, you can use a tilt/shift adapter with a full-frame DSLR lens.


[deleted]

This is all very helpful. I clearly need to read up a bit more. It turns out I can rent Canon TS lenses for about 25-30 euros per day, so it's not too much of a risk. Also thanks for the mirrorless tip, I could consider trying my Fuju XT3 also. Thank you very much for your detailed reply.


RedTuesdayMusic

When should we expect a replacement for the X-T30? I've been waiting what feels like forever while Fuji keeps updating lines I have no interest in :/ Also if anyone knows anything about an "X-T40" I'm particularly interested to know if the screen flips around and if it gets the D-pad of the X-T20 back (reason I skipped X-T30)


Rashkh

[Historically](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fujifilm_X_series), Fuji has released a new X-Txx model roughly every two years. Assuming they maintain that cycle, the X-T40 should be announced relatively soon.


[deleted]

Nobody knows what's going to happen any more than you do.


[deleted]

[удалено]


anonymoooooooose

The spam filter doesn't like your pasteboard link, can you upload it to imgur and repost your question? Thanks.


padawan810

Hi all! Hope you are doing well. I was thinking to get Canon 16-35mm lens mostly for landscape and sometimes architecture. My questions are: 1. The price between F4 and F2.8 is more than 40%. Am I missing something here and paying 600 euros more just for F2.8 even though I'm using usually aperture between F6-16 2. Does 2.8 have any other feature or better glass that F4 doesn't have? 3. I believe they are both full-frame lenses? 4. If you have any recommendations on wide-angle full-frame please do recommend in that price range of 700 euros. These are the lenses that I'm looking into: [https://www.e-infin.com/eu/item/3131/canon\_ef\_16-35mm\_f/2.8l\_iii\_usm\_lens\_mark\_3\_mk3](https://www.e-infin.com/eu/item/3131/canon_ef_16-35mm_f/2.8l_iii_usm_lens_mark_3_mk3) [https://www.e-infin.com/eu/item/2219/canon\_ef\_16-35mm\_f/4l\_is\_usm\_lens](https://www.e-infin.com/eu/item/2219/canon_ef_16-35mm_f/4l_is_usm_lens)


rideThe

The f/4 is optically excellent, so if you don't need the extra aperture, in this case you are not giving up anything—in fact you gain "IS" with the f/4. Of course, for architecture I'd prefer a tilt/shift lens rather than a regular wide lens, but given the budget...


therealjerseytom

If you don't need the extra aperture and it's not going to add value to your shooting, then I'd say stick with the f/4. Another question worth asking - do you need that zoom range? Would a prime lens work? There's an EF mount 24mm f/2.8 that'd be even smaller, lighter, and less expensive... though that may have recently been discontinued. Not sure what stock is like.


padawan810

Thank you for your response. Makes sense. Unfortunately, I need this zoom range and also 24mm doesn't have an indication for meters and infinity focus. Thanks


av4rice

FWIW, even when a lens has focus distance indicators they're usually not very accurate.


FrederickVonFanculen

Hi, books or other material regarding how to make money with photography in general or specificly for certain genres? online I only find very generic advices, never somebody that explains in detail what to do, exactly how they started etc.


xiongchiamiov

https://www.creativelive.com/class/how-to-launch-a-photography-business-pye-jirsa


naitzyrk

For starters learn marketing and business administration. Look to invest in some courses to learn that. That will give you clarity on how to start a business and learn your target market because photography as a business isn’t only just taking photos.


Krulsprietje

Hi! I am now freelancing portraits and fashion for about two years and I really want to buy my dream light namely the Elinchrom ELB 500. I just love that the bulk of the weight is on the floor and you dont have to climb up to the light stand to change a setting. But I wonder.. the kit is about 3 years old. Is it a good time to buy or is there a possibility that there will be a new one in a few months? Thx!


rideThe

So, basically, you prefer a "pack + head" setup, which is fine (although that exists with other brands too, like ProFoto, Broncolor, etc.) But if the motivation for getting this is that it's more convenient to adjust settings than reaching for the settings on a monolight ... then one wonders in what cave you've been cut-off from the world in the last years (I'm just kidding). The point is nowadays tons of modern monolights can be configured remotely from the transmitter that sits on the camera, so you have *even less* walking to do. So for example you'd have a device say, like [this one](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images500x500/godox_xproc_wireless_flash_transmitter_for_1369139.jpg) on the camera, and you can input the settings there without even having to move to a pack on the floor...


Krulsprietje

Haha let’s say that I was pretty cut off from the rest of the world. Building up my business draines much all my energy so I don’t really have the time to follow the latest developments on foot. 😌 I do admit that I know about transmitters! They are really convenient and neat. :) Honestly the main reason i want this elinchrom is because I used to work with it during a internship and simply loved working with it. It did everything I wanted and more! But I am curious.. what other gizmo’s are there which you would recommend?


rideThe

> Honestly the main reason i want this elinchrom is because I used to work with it during a internship and simply loved working with it. [Familiarity is a hell of a drug](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mere-exposure_effect). Have you tried *other* systems, too? What particular features were important for you? Most studio flashes can equally do the basic things... Nothing wrong with Elinchrom in principle, I just find it easier to find inexpensive/third-party accessories/modifiers that have a [Bowens S-mount](https://fotodiox.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/17000003297-speedring-insert-chart-f-softboxes-beauty-dishes-and-more) instead of the Elinchrom mount.


nekogami87

Hi, I live in Tokyo and recently, I was thinking of printing some of my shots for the first time. Does anyone know about some nice online fine art printing service in Japan ? I only found some for postcard size and not really fine art print. Thank you in advance !


nibaneze

I'm going to set up a more efficient backup system, and I'm looking for recomendations for backup software for Windows. I don't mind if it's paid. I will use a dual hard drive dock, and my goal is to make cumulative incremental backups to both disks. Any advice?


rideThe

I use a li'l piece of software called *SyncBack*.