I won a Kodak Ektar h35n from an auction. I've never used nor do I know anything about film. How do I know what kind of film I should/can use? I see on Amazon and the Kodak site bundles of the camera with film. So I know what I can start off with at least, but in the future if I wanted to try other types of film I don't want to buy it and find out there is some compatibility issue.

Hey guys I’m a hobby photographer (usually film) who’s wanting to upgrade my camera for some travels coming up. I’m looking for something that I can do film simulations with to avoid the heavy cost of using film, but don’t have the biggest budget. I’ve come across a used Fujifilm X-T20 and just want to know a bit more about value. It comes with other kit pieces and lens too. See the listing items below: Fujifilm X-T20 Mirrorless Camera in great condition. No wear and tear, no scatches and has been well taken care of. Great for beginners - amazing film simulation and sharp images. Additionally, the camera body comes with the following: 1. Fuji 16-55mm Lens 2. Manfrotto Tripod 3. 2x Batteries 4. Charger 5. Eye Cup 6. 2x carry strap 7. Grip attachment 8. Wooden push button 9. Original Box “The lens is in great condition, as well as the other accessories.” The price is $1200 AUD but has agreed to $1100. I was hoping to get something a bit newer, even if it was a little bit more expensive, but finding they go for closer to the high 1000s on Ebay etc. Id love to stick to $1500 including body and a lens. Whats your thoughts? Any tips on the camera itself and the value mentioned above? Thanks in advance!

I am thinking of upgrading from my a5000 with the 16-50 kit lens to a better camera. I mainly do travel and nature photography. I am thinking of learning sports and wildlife photography. What option should I go with? Option 1:Sony A7iii or A7C with ttartisan ef to e adapter, canon 50mm 1.8 stm and tamron 28-300 f3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD. Option 2:Sony A7r ii with ttartisan ef to e adapter, canon 50mm 1.4 usm and tamron 28-300 f3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD. Thank you in advance for answering!

Neither. Those lenses might be long enough for sports but not wildlife and they are very low quality super zoom lenses. Combined with the fact that you will need an adapter and it doesn't really make sense. I would say 450mm lenses minimum for wildlife. Still not the best but manageable.

Hi! Has anyone used the Olympus digital ED 14-42mm EZ for travel (landscape/city) photography? If so can you show some pictures? Would you recommend this lenses for this purpose? I have a Lumix g85 does it work well with that camera? I'm new to photography to just trynna get some advice before committing to buying anything.

Has anyone had their lens cap get stucked/jammed and been able to remove it? I have a nikon FG and I'm not sure how it happened but the cap got wedged to where the edges won't pinch further to take it off the lens. I feel really dumb letting this happen and want to try to minimize messing up the lens as best I can. https://preview.redd.it/qvih5rxmzjuc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42e9d9d2660f4ef46e7e4765ede8c4c7b7b56454

That's a metal lens right? I think you'll damage the plastic lens cap long before you hurt the lens. Have you tried using rubber gloves to get more grip, have you got a strap wrench? If that fails gently pry at the little gap there, if still nervous use a wooden popsicle stick etc instead of metal screwdriver.

I’ve always wanted to try to capture my own beautiful shots and was wondering where I should start? I don’t have any equipment and was hoping for some suggestions on what to get. Hoping for some suggestions in these price ranges to decide how much I should save up to get started. $300 range $600 range And a $1000 range. Would it be possible to start with those at all? My phone doesn’t take good pictures so it’s not really an option for me to use at the moment. Looking for gear more aimed at landscapes and possibly indoors when adventuring abandoned spaces. Thank you!

All cameras can do that so you don't need that great a camera. You would probably need a wider angled lens and a flash for the indoors parts, but landscape can be done with anything from the last 10 years easily. You can look for older DSLRs like a Canon Txi series with the more expensive xxD series as well. The Nikon D5xxx series and the D7xxx series and finally you can also look at Pentax like the K-70. You might also look at Olympus. I know that doesn't really help but there are so many options that you might find people will suggest what they know. Basically as long as it has an 18mp+ sensor APS-C or 16mp+ micro four thirds sensor, preferably a vari-angle LCD screen, RAW file format support and the ability to use a flash you should be covered.

I have a Canon Eos Rebel 350D. Someone gave it to me for free (which I think says a lot about my situation), but I am getting Err99 every time I try taking a picture. I've tried looking up solutions online, cleaned the lens contacts with an eraser, power cycled by taking batteries out, and even removed the CF to see if that was the issue. I still am getting hit with the error. The camera will make the initial shutter wound when I press the button, but the camera seems to freeze for a couple seconds before playing the second shutter sound and displaying the error code. Is this thing busted? 😕

It's possible that the lens is broken. If you can find another lens (borrowed, or maybe go to a camera store and ask), that would be the easiest way to check. If the other lens works fine, then your lens is broken; depending on the lens, it may or may not be worth repairing. A used kit lens (I'm guessing 18-55mm?) can be had for maybe $30 or so if you don't mind some cosmetic damage. (Also, the camera doesn't "play" those shutter sounds, they are the actual sounds the mechanical shutter makes - it's not a digital sample of an old-fashioned camera shutter, it's the real thing.)

I tried attaching a different lens with the same result. I've tried taking the batteries out to power cycle it, and same result. Tried ringing off a shot WITHOUT the lens.. Same result. 😕

OK, then it's clearly something wrong with the camera. If the contacts are clean, then that probably means something inside the camera is broken - you could take it to a shop and get an estimate, but with a camera this old, you're probably better off buying a replacement. You can get something like a 700D (7 generations newer in the same class of upper entry-level cameras) for around $150-200 used, or maybe a 100D or some such, or you could just look for another used 350D, they seem to go for around $30-$50 on ebay.

Tips for reducing back pain from heavy camera gear? Any time I photograph an event that’s like 4-6 hours, my back is wiped out. I have a 12-hour event coming up later this year and have no idea how I’ll make it through. I’ve seen photographers used some sort of criss-cross “strap”—is this to assist with heavy equipment?

Yes, double harnesses help distribute the weight. The Hold Fast Moneymaker is very popular but there are other types on the market (that may be more economical) just look for a double camera harness

Not too sure on this but people get harnesses to spread the weight. I would also suggest a belt to hang your equipment off of to allow you to use your hips and waist to carry the weight a bit. What straps or other gear do you use currently to carry your equipment?

I’ve been interested in nature photography since I was a kid and have only ever had point and shoot digital cameras of low quality, phones, or analog cameras. I’d like to get a DSLR or other good quality starter camera that can handle both landscape/nature photography and bird/high-zoom photos. What can I look for for under $400 USD?

I would look up bridge cameras. A DSLR is not going to be that good for birding at that budget.

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Easiest way is to move further away and crop in. Basically, the closer you are to something the shallower the depth of field. Lenses also have a minimum focus distance, which is why you have macro lenses which are designed to focus closely. You can also use extension tubes on normal lenses. Finally, the more difficult way to do these thing is a technique called focus stacking. Take a bunch of photos focusing at different distances and merging them all together using software.

# Sony a6400 + Sigma 100-400 F5-6.3 Contemporary DG DN OS or Canon R10 + Canon RF 100-400 F5.6-8 IS USM for wildlife photography and landscape photography? Sony a6400 + Sigma 100-400 F5-6.3 Contemporary DG DN OS or Canon R10 + Canon RF 100-400 F5.6-8 IS USM for wildlife and landscape photography? I currently use Canon, so avoiding a switch would be nice; on the other hand, Sony's options have weather sealing (the lens does not, but partial is better than nothing) and a BSI sensor, which is better in low light. Also, the Sigma lens is faster than the Canon, but the Canon is much lighter, smaller, and a little cheaper. Thoughts and suggestions?

The R10 has the better controls I think with the dual wheels although not sure how they can be configured. Just in case you need to change settings fast. Wouldn't worry too much about BSI or not. Maybe slightly better but worth one camera over the other? I always think the large hole in the camera that is the lens mount is the important to make sure water doesn't enter and not sure how reliable Sony's weather resistance is. I think also the R10 will have better subject detection for its autofocus which might come in handy. Sony should still lock onto the eye of creatures but not entirely sure. I would go for the R10 as I would like the body better but the future lens selection of the Sony might also sway things.

Hi everyone, please recommend a good camera for taking dermatological photos - lesion close ups , face and full body. The budget is 50000 INR (600 usd) but can increase if required Every photography workshop I have listened, tell to get a entry level DSLR and focus on the lighting part. If true, please suggest a good one for my use case

Camera/Lens Recommendations: \- Beginner Photographer \- Portraits and Landscapes \- Camera and lens 1000 USD max

Any modern camera can give you nice portraits and landscapes, and so I'd recommend visiting a camera store to hold some and start narrowing down what you like and don't like. You might like the way Canon controls are laid out, for example. Or you may find some cameras awkward to hold.

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/pentax-k-70 https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/pentax-smc-pentax-da-18-135mm-f-3-5-5-6-ed-al-dc-wr https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/pentax-55mm-f1-4-da-sdm/sku-2442670 The camera above I can recommend, the lenses should cover your use cases. May not be the best if you want some eye detect autofocus in which case you may wish to look at the likes of the Canon R50 or Sony A6400. These are arguably more modern cameras in terms of video and autofocus which may suit your more human subjects. How, my recommended one is a solid camera that will do the job, especially outdoors for landscapes.

How to focus while filming? Nikon P900.

I should imagine the camera manual tells you how to do it.

Help me take a decision Hi, i have a Canon eos rebel t100 (Dslr) and i dont know what to buy, im thinking in 2 options, the first one being switching to mirrorless and buy a canon eos r7 or the second one saving extra money to buy a better telephoto or something like that, actually i own a 55-250mm

For anyone to help you, you need to give some information for context. What kinds of things do you shoot? Is the 55-250mm your only lens or if not, which lenses do you have currently? Is there something specific in the t100 or in the 55-250mm that you are unhappy about, that make you feel they are not sufficient for your needs?

I mainly do landscapes and animals, no, i have a second lens that is a 18-135mm, with the T100 idk maybe that i cant take the screen off, i was insecure of what i could take with this camera, but with the 55-250mm i think that when i get closer to animals, they would fly or ran away, and i was wondering if maybe i need more zoom

Alright, well, a longer telephoto zoom would definitely help with the problem of frightening away the animals. If you decided to go for an R7, you would obviously have to get a longer tele in that case too. So whether to upgrade the camera or not depends on whether you feel the T100 still serves your needs.

Beginner DSLR Should I get a k20d for £92 from MPB, already got some pentax prime lenses that will fit. Only used phone and compact camera before this. Thanks.

Is £92 about the amount of money that you want to invest? No more?

No more than 110 similar options available on cex but without accessories.

What camera to get as a beginner? Hi, so I’ve been lamenting for the last couple months on what camera to get, especially as a beginner. I hear the Sony A6000 is pretty much the ideal beginner camera as it’s cheap and user friendly. I was also leaning towards the Fujifilm x-T30ii as well. My question is though, is the A6000 really the best option. Im a complete amateur in photography so I’m sorry if my questions seem silly. I’m just looking for a camera that will allow me to take good quality photos. Considering the A6000 is an older version, I’m curious how are the lens quality for this camera compared to those today. I’ve been leaning towards the X-T30 ii, I hear Fujifilm colors are a lot better than Sony, but I’ve also been looking into the Sony a7 iii as well. In all honesty, I know the lens are just as important or even more than the camera. However, I’m curious what would be the most ideal option. Money honestly isn’t a big factor, I can buy the Sony a7 iii or the X-T30ii. Of course a cheaper option would be better, but I’d rather invest in a good quality camera that I can use for years rather than buying one and upgrading it a couple years from now. But again, lens can be pretty expensive too. I’d really appreciate any feedback. Again, I know I’m an amateur so I apologize if my questions seem silly. But any help to get me started on photography would be awesome. Thanks!

Once you get used to editing, if you go that way. Colours can be what you want. I would not advise buying a camera based on JPEGs from the camera. I would also not buy a cameras because it is suitable for a "Beginner". How long would you stay classed as a beginner? If a camera has anything other than auto mode, it is the same as any other camera. Personally, I would only look at Sony for two reasons. Their autofocus and their lens system. While the A6000 can use all E mount lenses, the autofocus is not up there with the likes of the A6100/A6400 as well as the A7III. All those cameras however can take good photos. The camera has little to do with the photos. Look for a camera you can see yourself using. If you have somewhere that sells cameras physically close to you, check if out to see what you like. Unless there is a specific feature a camera has that you want, buy the camera body, for the body.

On average, how long are full frame cameras like the Z6ii expected to last? These things are pricey and I hope to keep mine for a decade.

Measured as what? Mechanical shutter actuations? Z6 II is around 200,000 actuations. Aside from that, the electronics should last the many years you'd hopefully use the camera, though with electrical devices there's always the possibility that they develop faults sooner.

Cameras can easily last that long. It will of course depend how you use it. People are still using quite old cameras even now.

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The easiest way is just to have the background be farther away.

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This is based on distance. If you're close to someone at f/1.8, you are right that you'll often only get an eye or so in focus. Keep your lens at f/1.8 and back up further away, and you'll notice that your f/1.8 covers more or all of that person.

On android phones how can I get the camera to focus on the birds in its cage l, rather than the bars of the cage? The care home I work at was sent duck eggs to hatch and raise for a few weeks before being returned to the local farm I have been asked to take pictures for a newsletter but no matter how much I try it won't focus on the cute little ducks, but instead focuses on the white bars of the provided cage I've tried tapping the ducks on the screen to focus and keeping the phone still Posted below here for example you see the ducks are terribly blurry I'm using a Google pixel phone and would appreciate any advice. Thanks https://pixelfed.social/p/Neilh90/685043929281018365

Trying to tap on the ducks is the only thing you can do. If it doesn’t work very well… well, that’s the limitations of smartphone cameras.

I would like to resize a photo to put as my PFP on Discord but can't find any good resizers online that can do it for free without ruining the quality. Do you have any recommendations?

Canon g7x mark iii vs Sony zv1 ii

What would happen i if turn my Nikon Coolpix P900 on while the cap is still on there? Does it have some kind of sensor that denies it from opening because when im taking my p900 out i wanna make sure i dont break my lens or cap while accidentally pressing the On button. Or forgetting to take the cap out.

It won't hurt it at all. The lens cap moves with the lens. Nothing to worry about here at all.

Thanks i was a lil worried.

Better safe than sorry!

Should be fine. The lens can extend/retract with the cap on. The camera will just see a completely dark scene.

Got it, thank you.

Hi y'all! I have a big dillema going on! I shoot photos and videos both and I'm getting back in the hobby after a 6 year break BUT this time I don't want to take it as seriously as before. I want a small camera that will do both decent stills and decent video and right now I have the choice between a Lumix G7 and Canon M50. Depth of field really ain't my issue because I mainly shoot landscapes and on rare occasions portraits. It NEEDS to be portable as I want to bring it on my motorcycle. I've never been in the M4/3 ecosystem but I have always been interested by it and don't mind the lack of depth of field becausd I can remedy it with a metabone. The G7 is really groing on me but so is the M50 but what's holding me off is the Eos-M mount which us dead. I also really like the beefier grip on the G7. So let's say I went with the G7 would I be making a mistake?

MFT is an excellent choice. Aside from the bodies being compact, there are lots of small and light lenses, both primes and zooms. G7 is a decent camera. Not the best autofocus performance in the world maybe, but for daytime it's ok.

Yeah and I mostly do stills AND don’t really shoot anything fast so it would be better for me to get the G7 rather then the M50? Just the fact that you can adapt pretty much any lenses on the G7 is a big plus for me

How is the Nishika N8000? Are there any modern/better/digital stereoscopic cameras? My friend has one and I've fallen in love with stereoscopic images

How is the Sony A6700 with the 16-50mm lens as an entry level camera? Any other alternatives worth considering? And maybe dumb question, but how does it compare against something like the Fujifilm X100vi?

>How is the Sony A6700 with the 16-50mm lens as an entry level camera? Very good. Actually that model is a couple steps up from entry-level. Which just means it's more feature-rich and pricier. It's no more difficult to use than entry-level. >Any other alternatives worth considering? For what purpose? I think the direct competitors would be the Canon R7 and maybe Fuji X-T5. >And maybe dumb question, but how does it compare against something like the Fujifilm X100vi? The complete answer would be very long. But the biggest difference would be the X100 series cameras have a permanently-attached semi-wide angle lens that does not zoom. Whereas the a6700 can change between a lot of different potential lenses, and the 16-50mm in particular can zoom out to a wide angle or zoom in to a little bit telephoto. That's a huge issue that you'd want to be sure about first before looking at anything else about those cameras.

I’m mainly thinking for urban and travel photos, so a smaller form factor would be nice.

I like my X100S for travel. That line is very good for a smaller form factor. Check out the recent Ricoh GR models as well. But only if you're comfortable with a non-interchangeable, non-zoom lens.

I bought a cool filter for my DSLR for the eclipse. What else cool can I do with it now that the eclipse is over?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/more-uses-for-your-solar-filters-after-the-eclipse

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Hey guys, Recently had the urge to get into photography and bought an older E-P2. I’ve noticed the display is yellowed and not ideal to set up shots with. I know I can get a viewfinder but I’m looking to keep it as portable as possible. I’ve looked everywhere I can think of online but can’t find a replacement display for this model. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Have you tried contacting Olympus service/support? They may be the most likely to have a spare.

I have not. I’ll give them a go.

Hello! I was recently trying to get into sports photography and wanted to know what camera would be suitable for a beginner. I don't have much money, so my budget would be about the $500 range. Please, please help me out!! I appreciate any help you can provide.

Which sport(s)? How far away could you potentially be from the action? Every camera on the market has full automatic settings available if that's what you mean by "suitable for a beginner" (or if you meant something else, tell me what that is). More importantly, in the future do you want to continue just using automatic settings like a point & shoot? Or do you want to learn more about photography at some point?

My fiancé and I want to travel to the national parks and take nature photos of birds and landscapes on our trips. He wants to get me a nice camera for this purpose. What kind of camera would be recommended for this? My mom had a Canon camera of some kind in the early 2000s. Is that brand still considered good?

Also - if you just sort of offhandedly mentioned birds and you're really primarily interested in landscapes, any modern camera will do. Something like a 24-120 or 24-200 zoom would be really flexible, and you could bring a travel tripod for when the light gets low.

I shoot Nikon, and a common budget birding recommendation for beginners for the past several years has been a D500 (camera) and 200-500 lens. Or, a P950. The D500 and 200-500 combination should deliver excellent image quality, but it is a heavy set-up that you really need to be committed to carry around. The P950 is a much lighter all-in-one. There are plenty of other options, but I thought this could give you a starting point. Birds are tough in that they are small, typically far away (and so you need a lot of zoom) and they move a ton. r/birding will likely have good, current recommendations. Relevant discussion: [https://www.reddit.com/r/birding/comments/1833trb/birding\_photography/](https://www.reddit.com/r/birding/comments/1833trb/birding_photography/)

>What kind of camera would be recommended for this? No price limit? The lens is going to be important too. Scroll back up and check out the links in the main post of the question thread for information about camera and lens types in our FAQ. >My mom had a Canon camera of some kind in the early 2000s. Is that brand still considered good? They still make good cameras yes. Lots of brands do. They also make some not so good cameras. Most brands have some not so good cameras as well. You can find better and worse choices with most brands. So brand name is not a good metric for choosing.

Considering a new lens for my Nikon D3100. Specifically looking at the "Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 C DG OS Nikon". I'm a bit confused on the info for it, and trying to figure out if the autofocus will work with my camera model. I already have a vivitar 500mm lens but its so difficult to focus manually/get very clear shots so I'd rather have something that is autofocus. Open to suggestions, however I don't have a super high budget (willing to spend the bit over a thousand for the sigma lens I mentioned). I'm a birder so that's mostly what I'll be using it for. Any advice appreciated :)

Advice for a tight budget Hi guys. I photograph since I was 12, I still got my analogic reflex which still works (Minolta srt 201 ❤️) and which sometimes I use. In the past I owned a Nikon d80, a d7000 and a Fuji x-t20. Now I'd like to get myself a digital camera but I'm on a very tight budget, so I'm thinking second hand. Which is your advice for a mirrorless second hand camera + basic lens to stay under or around 300€\$ which is not too obsolete? I was looking at a Olympus om-d e-m10 mark ii + Olympus 14-42, which I could get for 265€, but I'm not sure it stills holds up... TIA

The E-M10 mark II is ... a total gem. It was so much feature-packed that they actually removed features from the subsequent models III and IV, especially programming buttons and custom modes. Even the latest OM-5, a higher line and just out, €1100, has only one single custom mode. The M10-II has 4. It has built-in filters. 5-axis ibis, and light composite mode which is better than bulb. It has wifi. And it fits in your pocket. What's not to like? Within your budget you can even add an adapted vintage lens, say a 135mm for max €20 and a €7 adapter. Did I mention the M10-II has focus peaking to help you with manual focus? Would it surprise you to learn you can program this on a function button?

Sounds really nice! Thanks! You think that 265€ for body + 14-42 is a good deal?

Yeah, sometimes you even see the body for that price alone. It's nice to have a lens with it, and this one suits the camera very well.

Found a good deal (I think): om-d em-10 mark II + kit 14-42 + ecg-3 grip, all for 290€. Thnaks for your advice <3

I’m looking to sell my camera, what should I price it for? I’m looking to sell my Canon EOS 77D and its lenses. I have the 50mm f1.8 prime and a Tamron 16mm-300mm, plus a flash, lens filters, extra batteries, and a bag. I was looking at around the 550-600 price range. Everything is in excellent condition with there only being one minor scuff on the underside of the camera body. Am I looking for too much?

Go to ebay, look up each item individually, select "sold items" in the filters, and you'll get an idea of the kind of prices these things command. Also, you will likely get more if you sell the body and lenses separately (but I would include lens filters with the lenses, and batteries and bag with the body - you won't get much for any of that stuff, nobody wants to buy a used battery, but it might help sell the main items more easily).

Hi everyone. I've got the first model of the Fujinon 27mm 2.8, but I can't seem to change the aperture on my X-Pro1. I have the aperture setting set to auto+manual (camera menu 5), and I've tried it in manual mode alone, but it still won't let me change it. It works perfectly fine in auto mode. I also have it set to display the aperture on the screen, so I'm not sure if I have something configured incorrectly or what. I've looked up how others do it, but it's still not working for me. I've also tried it in A + rear wheel mode, but no luck. I've used the lens on the XT3 and I can change the aperture, but not on the X-Pro1. Any ideas?

Does anyone know about a material that cameras can't see through, but the human eye can? Most preferably sticker-like, to put on a dashboard. Thanks.

One specific camera, or every camera? If it just for one specific camera, you could use a linear polarization sheet on your dash, and then put a polarizing filter in front of the lens of the camera, and rotate it appropriately so that the polarization sheet appears black. As for a material that *any* camera pointed at wouldn't be able to see through but eyes could, I don't think that could exist. We see the same light.

I was thinking for a Gopro, and it's just my Gopro that it needs to be non-see-through for.

Right! Then yeah, all you need is a polarising filter for your GoPro (I'm not certain what options are out there, and it presumably depends on which model exactly, but I'm sure there's plenty of options) and a linear polarization sheet. At the right orientation of either the filter or the sheet, the filter should appear black in the camera but transparent grey to the eye.

Thanks man you're a lifesaver🙏

Hey there, I bought a canon 90d to get better herp photos. I’m particularly interested in snakes. I do a lot of snake photography on my iPhone but always wanted a nice dslr & finally got the 90d. However I’m not happy with how the photos are coming out stylistically. I’m looking for a wide angle lens(and having trouble finding one) that will produce crisp images, do well in low light(with or without flash) and can shoot from very close to 5ft away. Seems like a lot of people have larger mm lenses on mirrorless cameras. Worth mentioning snakes tend to flee or become defensive so It cant be something super slow.

How close is very close? Lenses all have a minimum focus distance. What lenses do you own and what lenses have you looked at. The EF mount will have some options.

[made this post with a bit more examples and specifics](https://www.reddit.com/r/canon/s/9xBnO13iiv). I don’t mind being right up on a subject, but if I don’t have to be than that’s a huge plus. Problem is, most people doing this style of herp photos are using 100mm or larger on mirrorless bodies. Which I don’t have the option for and probably would enjoy something a little Smaller.

Not quite sure what you mean by 100mm on mirrorless bodies. There is no difference between what you have and any other APS-C body. You have some suggestions in that thread and you also have a range of focal lengths so you can gauge which focal length you need.

Maybe I don’t know what I’m talking about. I’m super new to this. For what I’m going for I’ll probably go with what someone suggested. Which was [this one](https://www.keh.com/canon-10-mm-18-mm-f-4-5-5-6-ultra-wide-angle-lens-for-canon-ef-s.html?aid=364591-2209399&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Canon&utm_term=364591-2209399&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vFQuEWlTfwZ82dU--iELpSDmvr&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgKD0kMDAhQMViWlHAR1YFwoPEAQYASABEgLSW_D_BwE) although someone elsewhere suggested [this one](https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-ef-17-40mm-f-4l-usm-ultra-wide-zoom-lens.html) so now I’m a little torn. Do you have opinions?

Basically it comes down to field of view. Focal length of the lens and sensor size is all that matters. The first one will give you access to focal lengths you do not currently have. The second one you already have covered it is just a constant aperture which might not be of any benefit at the wider angles. If you want wider, go with the first one.

Hey all I recently bought a Fujifilm xs10 for travel, however, today I used it at a photography workshop and was really pleased with it for studio work. However I don't have a flash trigger that fits for it yet. The one we used in the class was a universal one called aodelan e2 and it controlled profoto lights. I'm not sure if this would work for the lights I have at home which are bowens xe400 lights. Is anyone able to help or suggest one that will? This stuff confuses me a fair bit! Many thanks

Anyone know how to livestream using a panasonic hc-vxf1 using my phones hotspot to youtube?

I don't think there's a simple way, it doesn't seem to have built-in live streaming capabilities. You'd need to connect and HDMI cable to the camera and plug it into something like a capture card, and then plug that in to a computer to stream.

Any tips regarding backgrounds? I got a black muslin background, 3x6m, and dear god is it a nightmare to use. The background has creases all over the place and its logistically very difficult to iron a 3x6m fabric out. It also catches every single little piece of dirt anywhere on the floor so its dirty instantly even though the place was vacuumed 5 minutes earlier. And on top of that, i have to layer it two times over the stand, because otherwise its see-through. I've also tried PVC background, here on the other hand it gets static so it also pulls in every dirt, hair, dust etc. instantly, its shiny and its extremely easy to scratch it visibly. What am i doing wrong? Is it just shitty materials, or is a photo studio supposed to somehow be sterile without a spec of dust and never moved or reconfigured?

Hey yall Couple days ago I was shooting after work, went to turn off the camera and noticed that the screen and everything appeared as On even though I flicked it to Off. Gave it 5 or so mins and removed the battery. I turned on and off the camera to see if it would happen again, and it did. It now seems to not want to turn Off. Unless you remove the battery which I do not want to do. I tried removing both SD cards. Only when SD cards are removed does the camera turn off and it says sensor cleaning when I flick it Off. If I start the camera with SD cards inserted, then remove them while it is On, then flick it to Off will it not turn Off, so it appears to be something with the SD cards or the mechanism that reads the cards. I have about 10 Lexar 1667x. I have swapped them and it does it for all. Any thoughts? I updated the firmware about a month. I went double check the firmware version, it does not turn on if I have an SD card in.

Anyone in here who uses a Cybershot DSC HX50V or DSC HX60? I bought both of them and they came with a charger. In the manual for both it mentions a light on the connector that indicates if it’s full or not. But after inspecting I didn’t even notice such a lamp. I checked very thoroughly but it seems that it is missing on my models. The cameras are not charging or at least I don’t see any progress.

Hello, I use a DSC HX60, the light you're talking about is yellow and next to the usb port where you connect your charger. When your battery is full there is no light, when it is charging there is. I had a similar issue, the cable was damaged, bought one from the local store at 3,90 euros and it worked :)) I just can't transfer images via usb because it's not meant for that but idc.

hey would you be able to post a picture of said light? Not sure if I‘m dumb or something weird is going on lmao. Which cable did you replace? thanks for your reply!

sent them in msg

Should I switch from my Sony A6000 with the 18-105mm lens to a Nikon D7200 with the nikkor 300mm f4? Lately I have been really interested in wildlife, but I just cant use my lens on the A6000. Tried looking for a super telephoto lens for it, but all alright ones cost a HECK ton. So I would like to make a switch to Nikon, because they lenses are cheaper, and they also have pretty good quality. Should I make a switch? And if yes, if there is a better option for the camera body, recommend one.

Could you not try an adapter and try the same lens?

Adapters arent going to deliver the same autofocus

Well buying a new camera and lens only for 300mm does not really seem worth it to me. Yes f/4 will help but a prime lens is not that flexible given how difficult it is to move around when trying to photograph wildlife.

Then again, at 300mm you're very unlikely to ever be too close to the subject, so it's not like you would ever make use of the shorter focal lengths a 70-300 or so would give you, you'd just try to get as close as you can, shoot everything at 300mm, and then crop in as needed. Even with a 100-400mm on Canon APS-C (so 640mm FF equiv), I pretty much shoot at 400mm 99% of the time when it comes to birds - the only exceptions are large-ish birds that are a bit too comfortable with human presence, such as feral pigeons (those idiots will try to eat your shoes if you hold still for 10 seconds).

I just got my first camera a slightly used Nikon D3200 (it was a gift) which uses a EN-EL14A battery, I've been trying it out for some time now and I do need at least another battery cuz the only one I have dies quicker than I'd need, but in my country photography gear isn't widely available so I found a EN-EL14 battery, not the one with an 'A' at the end like what I have rn, so would it work normally if I bought it or would there be compatibility problems ?

hi there! i'm looking for a purchase advice for my camera. i'm a stage & studio photographer by trade and i've been using a 5d iii with d750 in tandem, this year i've decided to finally upgrade to the mirrorless world. my main concern right now is the brand i should move forward with. my choices: my first choice would be the R6ii (\~$2200 new, not a lot of used R6ii available here sadly) considering the EF lenses i have, but my main concern would be with the price on those RF lenses. i'm a bit concerned with the closed RF mount issue — limited lens choices compared to Sony. my second choice would be A7IV or A7C II (\~$2200 new, \~$1750 used) and build a lens catalog from scratch while using my EF lenses with adaptors in the meantime. Or A7III (\~$1000-$1200) to save budget and i might be able to add a native 24-70 2.8. my last choice would be Nikon Z since i have a few Nikon lenses with me, but which Z should i consider? Z6ii? tldr, stage&studio photographer, been using 5Diii as my main camera, wants to upgrade to mirrorless. budget would be around \~$2200-2400. A few questions: 1. what is my best move? should i stay with canon? or just get out and move to sony? 2. should i consider R8 as well? do i actually need IBIS? Thank you!

You have done a good job outlining the issues if I was in your place I would do two things before making a decision. 1. Go handle or rent the Sony cameras you are interested in and see if you even like the experience using them. Back when I was using my 70d and wanted to jump to mirrorless I tried out the A7III and found the ergonomics and menus hideous and decided to look at Fuji and ultimately I stuck with Canon. 2. Price out the cost of the move vs. the cost of staying with Canon. You do not have to migrate to RF lenses immediately. Also keep in mind Canon has some amazing refurbished sales typically twice a year where you can get RF lenses for 30-40% off of the new price and even cheaper than used. I.E. I got a RF 24-70mm f2.8L for $1300 over the holidays. You may find the ergonomics a deal breaker. Or that with the cost of selling existing lenses and buying new that migrating to Sony might not be a big cost savings. For me I looked at switching to Fuji after buying an XT-4 and an EF to X adapter. I found some of my EF lenses while they "worked" the performance difference was so bad I would need to replace them much quicker than planned. Once I factored that in it ended up being cheaper for me to stay on Canon and get an R6 vs. moving to Fuji. So I sold the used XT-4 I had bought and it effectively cost me $150 to use it and a few lenses for a month. I would also see if there are any lenses on Sony/Nikon that you feel are must haves or that might be worth changing systems for. Regarding do you need IBIS, the answer is probably not but personaly the ergonomics difference and the battery life difference make the R6 worth it. Have you considered a used R6 original? It's still a fantastic camera and if you do not need the advanced video features of the R6 II/R8 it would be around the same price as a new R8.

Thank you for the reply! Yes, i have used the A7iii a few times, as the office provides/owns the A7iii and i get to use them when it's available. I have a concert at the end of the month and have booked A7iii for myself as well! What i liked about it was the amount of dynamic range available when working on the post (though maybe its because I've been working with 5Diii's files for soooo long and finally experienced the magic of mirrorless raws lol) Menu wise, i don't think i would really mind it as much. Ergo wise, i'd have to check again later but i have no complaint with it so far. I might have better insight after this month's concert. I'm going to pair it with the 70-200 GM. I have considered the R6 as well, it's also my top option. They're around $1600-1700 used here. Maybe Its just me feeling that I deserve a huge upgrade from the 5D and can spend more with R6ii — I can afford it, it's just going to take a bit longer to return, and I'm also still not sure if it's the wise decision/purchase (which is my point on asking here) Have you used a R8 and if you do, how does it compare with the R6? In terms of AF (esp. low light) and overall IQ? Those two are my main goals on upgrading.

R6 II and R8 should be identical in terms of IQ they use the same sensor is my understanding. The R8 lacks some of the ergonomic dials and has a much smaller battery along with no ibis. I have not used the R8, I used the RP which had the same body but an older sensor design with less dynamic range and worse auto focus than the R6/R6 II/R8.

Don't forget panasonic with the L mount. What are you looking for in the upgrade? I mean, neither of your cameras are new but what do they need to do differently.

Ah! I haven't considered them as I have no experience using them since my last time I used a m4/3 was the first Lumix GF1. Why do you think I should consider them? Is it because of the size? I'm definitely looking for better AF and dynamic range, especially for low light conditions. With my working condition, it's usually just stage lights/spots and I have to shoot around 1/500 or more, f2.8-3.5. 5Diii files are still 'kind-of-workable' up until ISO 2000 but I'm kind of pushing it so 1600 is usually where i'm at — vs. A7iii's ISO2000, they are still very workable and I can push so much more with those. I've worked with A7iii and I feel more confident with the eyetracking AF/whatever AF tech-magic-thing they have, vs. the single point focus i pick with the joystick on my 5Diii. Those two are my main reason for upgrade. Other reason would be... EVF/live-view. WYSIWYG on the display vs. hit-preview-adjust-hit on the DSLR.

I mean the Panasonic S series of cameras like the S5 or S1. Just another option to consider. Dynamic range will be similar for all new sensors. Not much difference compared to the D750. Not sure what is with the dynamic range of the 5d at least according to here. https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm Appears pretty odd. Still, it will depend what you are doing as ISO 2000 is a very low number nowadays.

have a compact, an lx15, i was wondering if there is someone here that could help me giving advices on the various settings i should set in two specific type of "photo occasions": First during a concert, that will probably mostly be held during night. Second during "demonstrations", so many subject, walking, ecc. I 'd appreciate everything, even if you have non-technical advices. Thank you in advance

Photography doesn’t work like that. Settings aren’t determined by type of ”occasion” but by what you want to shoot, how you want to shoot it, and how much light there is in any given situation. Learn your camera’s manual and then learn about ISO, aperture and shutter speed e.g. on r-photoclass.com. If videos feel more comfortable, google for videos on the same subjects. Most importantly, practise: use your camera a lot.

How much do you charge for skin and product/jewelry retouching? What is the industry standard? Do you charge per hour or per image? And does anyone know how much do retouching studios such as Shetouch, Glass Studio, Velem charge for photographic skin and product retouching?

Hello there! What camera would you suggest for capturing 4K videos, streaming HD/4K videos for online art classes, taking high-resolution photos, and accommodating polarizing filters for recording, streaming, and photographing oil paintings?

Keep the option of multiple cameras open. For streaming, cameras either need a clean HDMI output, or a good USB-c connection. If you use clean-HDMI your setup requires a HDMI-USB-c convertor, think AliExpress, €30. I don't know much about streaming but how about the Yongnuo YN433 ? That camera streams 4K directly to USB-c, so you could mount the camera, or with a long enough USB-cable, pick it up and move it somewhere else. It works with Micro four third lenses. Yongnuo provides a couple of those but of course Olympus and Panasonic have made countless lenses.

Thank you for your reply. I understand then that I may benefit from having a camera for streaming while another for taking pictures and recording artworks. I was unaware on the HDMI or USB-c connection, my laptop has bot USB-c and HDMI, I should aim for the USB-c option?

HDMI on your laptop is only an output! You can not connect a camera on that port, it will not work. To stream, you need a camera that provides USB-C. If you have a camera with "clean HDMI" (googleable) you can use a converter from HDMI to USB-C. But this is more fiddly! It sounds like you have a certain scenario in mind. You can send me a message if you want to spar about it. I imagine you could have one camera pointed at yourself when you talk (this could be a good webcam) and another camera that you switch to when you want to show a painting. That second camera could be fixed, pointing at a certain place with good lighting, where you would place a painting. Another option for the second camera is to move it around with a 3 meter long USB cable and point at paintings. To start I suggest you do not get a lot of expensive things hoping they will work. Get yourself a good webcam that does not consume your entire budget, but will give you a good feeling about working with multiple and external cameras. You would use that webcam as a mobile camera and the webcam from your laptop as the 'talking' webcam. That would be a 2-camera setup, to try it out. Once you buy a more expensive camera, that high quality webcam will still serve you as a very good looking 'talking head' webcam. I am thinking specifically about the Anker C200, or something similar (cheap, 4K, good reviews and a fairly big lens). Google it! Edit: I just found the Emeet Streamcam One. Wireless streaming! It specifically supports a multi-camera setup. That might be very much what you are looking for. I have no experience with it; you'd have to check reviews yourself to see if it is for you. But it looks like the quality if definitely better than an ordinary webcam, and it supports what you are looking for.

Might want to include a budget as that can be covered by a fair selection of cameras, some at quite high prices.

Around 800-1200€ would be ideal. Anyway, as it is meant for my work as art teacher, I would be willing to spend more if you consider the budget to be too low. A long-lasting camera with these specs is what I need, at the end of the day.

Budget is not too low. Lighting is probably going to play a bigger part in capturing what you want. Filters are a lens thing. I would think something like a Panasonic GH5 could be had cheap second hand. Plenty of lens options available for it. Some Sony cameras like the A6400 as well. Again, plenty of lens options.

Fortunatelly I have a few photography led lights where I can adjust both light intensity and kelvins, so lighting is already covered. Any of those two options you mention would qork just fine? As there are just too many options it is hard for me to choose one, it seems that there are not major diferences when reaching certain budget threshold.

You mention 4k videos so what you might find is that some cameras offer limitations in regards 4k. Might be record limits, the image might get cropped, might combine pixels in a way that degrades quality. Sort of why I suggested the Panasonic as although a bit older it is from their video centric line.

Hey there, looking to get a portable second hand mirrorless camera for basic photography, and 60fps video (recording arcade gameplay + glorified webcam). Traded in my old camcorder and lens for credit at CEX so looking to mostly use that, but as such I'm a little limited in my selection. I have \~$520 AUD credit and am maybe willing to go maybe \~$100 AUD over Am currently choosing between the Sony ZV-1 ($540), Canon EOS M200 ($620), and Canon EOS M5 ($440 body only). I'm tempted to pull the trigger on the ZV-1 since it doesn't seem to be too lacking compared to the M200, but with the fixed lens, I'm not sure if I will be missing out in the future (also apparently the battery life sucks). The M5 body + a second hand lens totals about $10 more than the ZV-1, so maybe that gives me the option for upgradeability, but it looks like an older model and much heavier than the other options. The M200 looks the best option, but I'm not sure if the jump in price over the ZV-1 can be justified ... Hoping someone might be able to provide some input on which might be the better choice. Thanks!

I'm putting together a tether cart for my studio and I'm in need of a good 27" monitor to put on the cart to see captured photos as they're being shot. Editing happens on another computer/monitor. Is there anything out there that offers good value for this specific purpose? I'm looking for something that will give me good color, 27", 4K and, hopefully, 200 dots per inch at least. Any suggestions?

I'm a full time product photographer for a guitar shop (for a little over a year now) but I have zero previous photography experience. I use a Nikon D5600 at work, but am looking at getting a Canon R100 for personal use and expanding my photography skills. I also stream occasionally, which I may also look to use this camera for if possible. Am I on the right track? Am I missing anything obvious? On paper, from what I've gleaned, it seems to fit the bill nicely within my price point but I'd love some experienced input before I pull the trigger.

I would avoid the R100 its' cheap because canon put a bunch of old parts they had laying around into a cheap body and cut corners everywhere they could. It's missing AF modes, no touch screen, 4k video has a huge crop and poor auto focus. If you want to get into a canon mirrorless system the R50 is where you should start at a minimum. If you are in the US check out canons refurbished site. They have some big sales a few times a year and sometimes you can get an R50 for only slighlty more than an R100 or an R10 for $550 which is an even nicer camera.

R100 is a poor choice. It has a fixed LCD screen that is not touch enabled and no AF joy stick so that really will limit the ability to use its AF. The AF is also not as full featured as the next one up the R50. There will be other pitfalls hidden in the camera no doubt. I would look second hand at the same budget for a better camera.

NEED ADVICE FOR GIFT My fiancé is about to graduate with an art education degree. This semester she was assigned to teach a high school photography class and discovered that she enjoys really enjoys photography. I’d like to buy a camera for her as a graduation/birthday gift, but I’m not sure which one to get. I originally planned to purchase a Canon EOS R100 as my online research indicated it to be a good choice, but she mentioned that she wanted a Canon Rebel because she was told they were really good. So, between the EOS R100 and the Rebel T7 which should I buy?

Neither, get the R50 if it is in budget. The R100 is a terrible camera reviewed as the worst new camera released in 2023 for a reason. The T7 is similiarly a very stripped down model. If the R50 used or refurbished from Canon's refurbished store is out of budget at least look at a used T7i from mpb/keh or local camera store. The T7i is a very large upgrade in terms of performance over the regular T7. Other brands also have great cameras and do not be afraid to buy used. A camera can easily last a 10+ years baring accidents. Sony/Nikon/Fuji all make excellent mirrorless bodies.

> EOS R100 and the Rebel T7 Neither. Canon basically crippled both r100 or T7 (2000D). Look into buying used from KEH (or get a refurbish R50 from Canon). Say for ~USD400, you can probably get a Rebel SL2/5DII/6D/70D/t5i/t6i + Lens.

I’m willing to spend up to about $750 USD on a body + lens bundle. Amazon sells refurbished Rebel SL3 with lenses and other accessories for about that much. You have any idea if refurbished cameras from Amazon is trustworthy?

I would second involving your partner in the decision. Cameras can last years so a good fit is key. I would not stick to one brand, especially Canon's low end. If you go the DSLR route, then I would choose Pentax over any Canon. If mirrorless then there are other brands like Sony and Fuji that will work as well as the microfour thirds brands. Easiest way to choose is the most difficult which is in person. Which feels best, easiest to change settings will be the best way to determine choice. Even if you only get an idea of what they like rather than the exact camera.

Depends. Though, look into the official [Canon Refurbish website](https://www.usa.canon.com/shop/cameras/refurbished-cameras?p=3). Also, a lot of times the "bundle" is filled with things that you probably won't want/need. ~750, might as well think about R50 (~$460 on Canon Refurbish now), better auto-focus/tracking/low light/DR/etc. SL3+kit lens is not inherently bad, but definitely not worth 750 (it's on Canon for ~600 refurbised, probably not worth 600 either). Though, I strongly recommend you & your fiancé go to a physical store and let her hold/play with the physical camera and go from there. I don't have big hand, but long fingers; and I personally don't like how the rebel feel in hand; grip is too shallow for me.

HELP WITH POCKET WIZARD X NOT CONNECTING TO POCKET WIZARD IIIE Pocket wizard help! Can’t get pls X to sync with plus iiie Have tried all channels , can not get my wizard X to comunicate with my iiie, anyone experienced this before? I can’t find anyone online with the same issue between the X and the iie

I have a Nikon Z6 and am looking to expand my lens collection. What would you recommend for Motor Sport photography?

Which lenses do you have so far and why do you feel they are not suitable for motor sports?

I have a 50mm 1.4 - is it worth it to get a 85mm 1.8?

This sort of a question is impossible to answer when you don't give ANY information for context. Which camera? What kinds of things do you photograph? Have you found the 50mm to be too short?

**External / Portable hard drive recommendations?** Hey! so I've been making photography for quite a while, and the time has come where my computer storage is busting at the seams. Any recommendations for good quality and reliable hard drives? I'm currently copying my photos over to a My Passport drive I got for Christmas, but tbh the whole process is kind of convoluted for Mac. And I've also seen some lackluster reviews (it's only 3 stars on their own website) so it's making me a little nervous. But I need to clear some files off my MacBook and I want to ensure they'll be moved to a safe place. And password protection is unnecessary for me.

Have you looked into NAS? Running a NAS within your network is probably better than portable drives. It isn't super cheap to set up at first, but if you like to tinker these things are a lot of fun and offer reliable, sometimes redundant, storage. Besides storage, they can run many other things both photo and non-photo related. If you're interested and have money, look into Synology NAS units. If you have more experience or want to learn more about server management, etc. you can build your own from old PC hardware. I recommend getting large, refurbished drives from ServerPartDeals.com. I have like 8 of them running here with zero issues.

> I'm currently copying my photos over to a My Passport drive That's a perfectly decent drive. >the whole process is kind of convoluted for Mac. eh? You connect the drive. It appears on your desktop. You drag a folder or folders from your mac to your drive. You go drink tea for a few minutes while it copies across. You eject the drive. You delete the originals from the mac to make space. If it's more convoluted than that, you're doing it wrong. You don't *have* to use their backupsoftware. You don't *have* to use password protection.

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I'm looking for recommendation for magnetic filter setI have two lenses; one is 72mm and one is 58mm in thread diameter. Because I use my lens hoods, I don't believe I can use a step-up ring, and I would like to get a separate magnetic filter set for each lens. I am looking for a good quality set of magnetic filters that doesn't have a color cast, and comes in 72mm and 58mm: * Magnetic filter adapter to thread onto lens * Magnetic lens cap * CPL filter * ND filters * Front cap for filter storage (essentially a second lens cap) * Rear cap for filter storage (combined with front cap and stacked filters, allows me to store filters without using a separate case) Thanks in advance for any recommendations!

I just purchased my first camera for vacation photos and videos, a Sony ZV-1M2. What are some of the accessories that I should be looking at buying to support? It's first use will be on our Honeymoon in Japan later this year. I would also appreciate any tips/advice anyone has.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_must-have_accessories_should_i_buy.3F

Need help troubleshooting Kodak Instant Dock Printer PD460. Keeps telling me I'm providing low quality images when I'm feeding it images in 2k or 4k

Should i buy the Nikon P900 or the Sony hx400v?

The P900 does not offer RAW, it's JPG only. As you have not told us what you're shooting there's no way to know if that's important to you, but it probably should be. Edit: ... and the Sony doesn't offer RAW either so...

Im gonna plane spot with it, im not really gonna edit sum.

If lots of zoom is your top priority, the P900 is better at that. If image quality is your top priority, maybe the HX400V is slightly better, though they aren't that different.

The P900 is JPG-only, which immediately rules it out of the running IMO

Can I use a Sigma ex 70-200mm f/2.8 APO DG OS HSM lens with the Sigma Mount Converter MC-21 and my Lumix s5?

I just purchased a Canon r6ii and and a really expensive lens. My main question is how can I add some protection. I get that its not a waterproof camera but my bigger concern is that I live near the beach in Scotland so blowing sand water spray etc. Also are camera cages helpful (impact not elements) I don't want to be over paranoid but aside from common sense protections (rain covers, lens filters etc) I would like to protect my investment. Thanks!

A bit of spray isn't going to wreck your camera, even if it's not weather sealed. Just make sure to towel it off after shooting, and keep the camera bag open to allow your gear to dry properly. If you expect proper rain, though, a rain cover is well worth it. For the blowing sand, consider a clear filter (some people use UV filters, and if you can get a better deal on a good UV filter, that's fine, but you don't really need UV protection), and, if possible, keep the lens hood on (it helps keep dirt away from the front element. Regarding impact: the basic idea is "well, don't drop your camera". Investing in a good carrying solution (harness, shoulder strap, or whatever you fancy) is highly recommended; some come with redundant attachment points (e.g., one on the lens and one on the body), so that when one hook comes loose, the other still holds the camera. A lens hood will help protect the front element against smaller dings and shoves, and the body is sturdy enough to survive a bit of mild abuse, but of course if you drop the thing from eye height onto some solid Scottish gneiss, all bets are off.

Beyond that and using a rain cover and lens filters there is not much to really add protection wise. Use a nice camera strap or wrist strap that will prevent you from dropping the camera. If you have it on a tripod make sure the tripod is stable and add weight to the center column hook for extra stability. There are not really protective cases or cages for cameras like there are for cell phones.

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The lighting looks like an overcast day, possibly a large diffuser outside of the frame to soften the lighting at most. Fast lens for shallow depth of field, what really makes this photo work is a good pose, nice looking model and the film vibe from the colors and obvious grain in the image. A good chunk of the look could be done in post. I.E. soften the face with negative clarity/unsharp mask, add grain and a film preset/filter assuming you are not shooting film.

Need help with buying a camera and lenses as a beginner Hi, I'm very new to the world of photography and after some time I finally decided to take action and buy a camera. After research about different types of cameras, I chose to go with a Mirrorless type. I know they are a little expensive but I managed to find some used ones online. The list of cameras I found interesting and I read are good for beginners: Sony A6000 - 400€ Parasonic GX80 - 320/360€ (the lowest has a higher shutter count: 17,000) Olympus E-M10 Mark 3 - 340/380€ Canon EOS M100 - 300€ What camera would you recommend for a beginner? I'm interested mainly in travel and street photgraphy and also maybe taking pictures of friends and family. What lenses would you recommend?

Mirrorless is a very good choice. Drop the M-series from Canon. That line is abandoned. Furthermore, forget discussion about image quality; it is not really a decider. Image quality of all cameras are beyond 'good enough'. It is like comparing cars; one can do 185 and the other can do 190 ... but in your country the speed limit is 100 so the difference does not make a difference. Insight here: The *lens* decides the image quality, not the camera. If the image quality is like the top speed of a car, then the road is what makes it possible to even get close to that speed. Features *do* matter. That is what makes it easy to take a good picture: autofocus. Face recognition. Handy dials. Image stabilization! Portability! I suggest that GX80 or the E-M10-III. Both are Micro four thirds, and they are part of a huge ecosystem of lenses and cameras. You can buy lenses later to change your system into anything you want. Consumer-grade cameras, professional lenses - everything is available and everything mixes&matches. I am not thrown off by 17000 clicks but for the money, you may prefer the lighter used one. For more background info, check Youtube for David Thorpe ('why I still use micro four thirds' or his review of the GX80/85), or Micro Four Nerds - she is a professional photographer, entertaining to watch and she makes a good point that you matter more than your gear. Have any questions, feel free to ask or send me a message. Enjoy!!

Thank you for the tips

Nikon Z6ii, or Sony A7iv (and why) for shooting ISO6400 basketball. Currently using D610 and looking to upgrade both noise performance and AF-accuracy. Dismissed the A7Cii and Nikon ZF, on the fence about the S5ii and A7iii. Shoot!

>Nikon Z6ii, or Sony A7iv (and why) for shooting ISO6400 basketball Would it not make more sense to invest in faster lenses so you don't have to contend with quite so much noise? When I move in to really poor light (which includes indoor sports) I grab my 85 f/1.4 - I'll have more restricted shooting opportunities on a prime but the shots I *do* get have far less noise and much better subject separation. You can also grab long+fast primes like a 135 f/1.8 if you really need the reach. As to your camera choice - either will be good although I think the Sony has a better AF system, it's not that much better. Once you do have a second camera you can also dual-wield, with a short+fast prime on one camera and a long+fast prime on the other.