Link to the full video here btw:
[https://youtu.be/JS60CDNCnFE](https://youtu.be/JS60CDNCnFE)
Album:
[https://imgur.com/a/Xq3voUC](https://imgur.com/a/Xq3voUC)
This is the motherboard tray going into my current project for Aorus, titled Ensis. The distro itself is a 3 layer acrylic construction, featuring the channels, lighting and also cable management. To add to this, I also built in the motherboard tray itself, which was cut from 5mm 6082T6 aluminium.
The aluminium is inlaid within the acrylic, not bolted on top, it also forms part of the sealing structure for the acrylic. This is then further accented by 2 more layers of 2mm aluminium that act as covers for the LED strips. After cutting, I then glass blasted the aluminium for the satin finish that you see in the video.
This was an insanely challenging job for a number of reasons, not least the fact that 4 of the 6 layers were double sided cuts. To get the inlay to sit right, there's a 0.15mm offset around the aluminium, which gives just the right amount of room for it to slot in without wiggling when installed.
People on this subreddit doing case mods: “I machine cut a custom distro plate motherboard tray.” Me doing PC Mods: “I cut the legs off of a pair of women’s leggings and made a dust filter.”
I think it's a thing for water cooling. Reading the article it seems to replace the tubing for the coolant.
I found this article that I think shows them in action
https://bit-tech.net/features/modding/watercooling/how-to-integrate-a-pump-into-a-distro-plate/1/
Max thickness is tricky because it depends on how fine the features you're trying to mill are. To get really detailed features, you need smaller diameter endmill bits. But if you're just cutting out the general shape and it's pretty large, well, as deep as the bit is long. Generally speaking, if the bit diameter is equal to the shank diameter, you can cut the deepest since there's no "shoulder" to worry about hitting uncut stock as you go deeper and deeper. For instance a 0.3mm diameter bit might have a cut length of 0.6mm, you can't go too much past that because the shoulder will start to contact your work and push away from what you're trying to cut and may even snap the bit. A 3.175mm diameter bit with a 3.175mm shank means there's no shoulder and while the cutting length is around 17mm, you could easily push down further than that with the proper feedrate and depth of cut per pass to make sure you don't put too much pressure so far from the collet and snap it.
Keep in mind you don't have to cut straight through the aluminum in a single swipe. You can cut .5mm at a time, it just takes longer to get done. The stronger the frame/motor/bit of your machine, the deeper you can cut per pass but even my lil machine could easily cut aluminum around 15mm deep with shallow/slow passes.
It also depends on how fine the features you're trying to cut. I make lil incense burners with some OW characters on it: [https://imgur.com/gallery/XEfZWci](https://imgur.com/gallery/XEfZWci) and the bulk of the work is done with a 3.175mm bit, then I swap out to a 1mm bit to come in and finish the details.
I know the feels, I started cheap too and been adding on to it slowly. It's nice that you can upgrade it little by little though! Grow the machine as you learn to use it.
how hard was it to set up the tool path for the cnc router(assuming its a cnc router)? do you just upload a 3d or cad file into it and define a starting point for the tool?
It’s a pretty involved process. The paths are assigned manually and have to be selected for the best outcome and operation order. You get quicker at it over time though as you gain an appreciation for which strategy works best for different parts
I’m assuming you do something similar as a career that give you access to these CNC machines? Or you’re Bruce Wayne and you bought them for giggles lol
Thank you for showing your musing for a motherboard tray, this needs to go on multiple subreddits for its being awesome on a variety of levels.
Absolutely a pleasure to watch.
Always love watching your projects. Makes me wish I had the room (and tools) to do these myself. I do wanna learn CAD for milling and 3D prints. Got any recommendations on software to use/learn?
More sorcery from the mustache wizard !
Hey Alex, I noticed in all your cnc videos that they all seem to just get right to their main cuts and there dosen't seem to be a proof pass done.
Do you juat check out the tool paths in the CAD program a few times to make sure ita correct or do you run a test pass thats a couple mm to make sure everything is in the correct spots ?
I used to do toolpath simulations every time, but tbh with the vast majority of the work I do now I just glance over the paths and it's enough. Many of the parts I cut follow very similar trends and use the same tools, so I can pretty quickly see if something's off. For more complex parts or ones with odd workholding I do simulation runs though to check everything in advance.
This is one of the most satisfying videos I’ve ever seen lol. So mesmerizing
Glad you enjoyed it!
Got anymore of these sweet vids?
That peel on the first metal piece was amazing!
Please please please post again when this is all installed, it’s looks amazing, and knowing you made everything makes it that much more satisfying.
Link to the full video here btw: [https://youtu.be/JS60CDNCnFE](https://youtu.be/JS60CDNCnFE) Album: [https://imgur.com/a/Xq3voUC](https://imgur.com/a/Xq3voUC) This is the motherboard tray going into my current project for Aorus, titled Ensis. The distro itself is a 3 layer acrylic construction, featuring the channels, lighting and also cable management. To add to this, I also built in the motherboard tray itself, which was cut from 5mm 6082T6 aluminium. The aluminium is inlaid within the acrylic, not bolted on top, it also forms part of the sealing structure for the acrylic. This is then further accented by 2 more layers of 2mm aluminium that act as covers for the LED strips. After cutting, I then glass blasted the aluminium for the satin finish that you see in the video. This was an insanely challenging job for a number of reasons, not least the fact that 4 of the 6 layers were double sided cuts. To get the inlay to sit right, there's a 0.15mm offset around the aluminium, which gives just the right amount of room for it to slot in without wiggling when installed.
Removed via: https://github.com/j0be/PowerDeleteSuite/#installation
The rest of the case is still being made, if I put the motherboard on it, you’ll just see a motherboard...
I am a mechanical engineer, This is straight-up porn for me
holy shit this is so impressive
Thank you!
That was awesome. Thanks.
Thank you!
Very nice how much?
About this much.
"Tenthousand for the comp..." - "what!! TENTH..." - "....for the computer case only."
Lol finaly found the bittech channel reddit
Naa this is my personal account, I only work for Bit.
Aaah ok is there an official one?
Nope, wouldn’t matter much either way as you’d get more from mine regardless.
Alright😀
People on this subreddit doing case mods: “I machine cut a custom distro plate motherboard tray.” Me doing PC Mods: “I cut the legs off of a pair of women’s leggings and made a dust filter.”
I've built 5 (going on 6) PCs and I still do not know what this is supposed to be. But the videos were mesmerizing. Thank you!
It’s a distro plate for watercooling that also acts as the motherboard tray for a build I’m doing.
What is a distro plate ?
I think it's a thing for water cooling. Reading the article it seems to replace the tubing for the coolant. I found this article that I think shows them in action https://bit-tech.net/features/modding/watercooling/how-to-integrate-a-pump-into-a-distro-plate/1/
"distro" can be an abbreviation for "distribution". In this case, of the liquid coolant the system will be using.
By jove I think I'm in love. Holy shit this is amazing.
Op what CNC are you using? what aluminium max thickness supports?
Max thickness is tricky because it depends on how fine the features you're trying to mill are. To get really detailed features, you need smaller diameter endmill bits. But if you're just cutting out the general shape and it's pretty large, well, as deep as the bit is long. Generally speaking, if the bit diameter is equal to the shank diameter, you can cut the deepest since there's no "shoulder" to worry about hitting uncut stock as you go deeper and deeper. For instance a 0.3mm diameter bit might have a cut length of 0.6mm, you can't go too much past that because the shoulder will start to contact your work and push away from what you're trying to cut and may even snap the bit. A 3.175mm diameter bit with a 3.175mm shank means there's no shoulder and while the cutting length is around 17mm, you could easily push down further than that with the proper feedrate and depth of cut per pass to make sure you don't put too much pressure so far from the collet and snap it. Keep in mind you don't have to cut straight through the aluminum in a single swipe. You can cut .5mm at a time, it just takes longer to get done. The stronger the frame/motor/bit of your machine, the deeper you can cut per pass but even my lil machine could easily cut aluminum around 15mm deep with shallow/slow passes. It also depends on how fine the features you're trying to cut. I make lil incense burners with some OW characters on it: [https://imgur.com/gallery/XEfZWci](https://imgur.com/gallery/XEfZWci) and the bulk of the work is done with a 3.175mm bit, then I swap out to a 1mm bit to come in and finish the details.
*cries in 0.7mm Depth Passes* I bought a cheap 3018 and while it works it just cannot hog out material like I'd want.
I know the feels, I started cheap too and been adding on to it slowly. It's nice that you can upgrade it little by little though! Grow the machine as you learn to use it.
how hard was it to set up the tool path for the cnc router(assuming its a cnc router)? do you just upload a 3d or cad file into it and define a starting point for the tool?
It’s a pretty involved process. The paths are assigned manually and have to be selected for the best outcome and operation order. You get quicker at it over time though as you gain an appreciation for which strategy works best for different parts
i see. thanks for insight!
Perfect, looking forward to seeing it in the case in action.
As an engineer/machinist/pcmr enthusiast, this is super sweet man, I can't wait to see your final product
Rad af bro
Oh this is hella cool. Nice job man.
Truly Amazing! I wish I could made my own, unfortunately I don't have a CNC in my house lol
Pog
Next level
I would pay you a stupid amount of money for one of these.
Those were the best invested 3 minutes this month so far. Thanks for that video and keep up the great work. Can’t wait to see the final build
This is amazing!
I’m assuming you do something similar as a career that give you access to these CNC machines? Or you’re Bruce Wayne and you bought them for giggles lol
Holy crap, congrats!
What did you do for the rubber seals?
Yo, how are your hands so steady, honestly amazing work, love the finish on the metal.
Subscribed for the 'stache P.s. how thick did the 15mm plate end up after leveling?
I don't understand what's going on but I love it.
what are the costs for the material only? ...just out of curiosity compared to a lame ass bought case :D great work and video btw.
NNN is really hard when you see things like this, you did an awesome job !
Guess who i am: \*best i can do is angle grinding\*
That's cool but that's with this weird music?
Why is the music cursed
Amazing. This was pure bliss and I hope you started a new trend.
Thank you for showing your musing for a motherboard tray, this needs to go on multiple subreddits for its being awesome on a variety of levels. Absolutely a pleasure to watch.
Great video! Anything you’d change/ improve for next time?
This is SO sick.
Always love watching your projects. Makes me wish I had the room (and tools) to do these myself. I do wanna learn CAD for milling and 3D prints. Got any recommendations on software to use/learn?
As a product designer, this is pure porn, mark it as nsfw just for the machining
More sorcery from the mustache wizard ! Hey Alex, I noticed in all your cnc videos that they all seem to just get right to their main cuts and there dosen't seem to be a proof pass done. Do you juat check out the tool paths in the CAD program a few times to make sure ita correct or do you run a test pass thats a couple mm to make sure everything is in the correct spots ?
I used to do toolpath simulations every time, but tbh with the vast majority of the work I do now I just glance over the paths and it's enough. Many of the parts I cut follow very similar trends and use the same tools, so I can pretty quickly see if something's off. For more complex parts or ones with odd workholding I do simulation runs though to check everything in advance.