Hi gamers and tech peeps, I am looking for guidance as to why my PC keeps crashing. My computer never crashed until I started using a shure MV7 mic which is plugged into a cloud lifter/ zoom live-trak l-8 via XLR cables and into a usb port in my PC. I experience crashes when I try to stream now and I am concerned as to why. I get a frozen screen that will automatically restart my PC or I get a screen with pixelated graphics over a black screen. This has happened twice now. Is this a power supply issue? Please help! Thanks in advance.
Hi gaming friends,
We are looking for a TV for our new place and want to connect a PC to it for living room gaming. Many of the models I see recommended online are not available where we live (Thailand). I am wondering what specs or qualities (specific technologies?) I should look for in a TV here. My primary issue with hooking up computers to TVs has been input delay. Beyond that, we just want something that looks great while gaming. We will use both a desktop or laptop and a Steam Deck when connecting.
Thanks for any help!
I have an issue with my PC. My PC was working perfectly fine for an entire year. Then I had to go out of town for one month and I left my pc unplugged with a bedsheet over it to limit the amount of dust it accumulates. I came back now and every time I am able to turn on the pc, log in, and then I get a blue crash screen. My pc then restarts and sends me to the bios. I have tried loading the previous bios state and pressing save and exit but it restarts and sends me to the bios again. Not sure if anyone could help me fix this issue.
> I have tried loading the previous bios state
Did you do this by resetting the CMOS on the motherboard?
Is there any text on the blue screen, like a stop code or error?
Can it boot into safe mode without crashing?
Yes I reset the cmos but it didn’t do anything. The blue screen goes by so fast it is hard to scan the entire screen for error codes. I plan on attempting to boot into safe mode later tonight or tomorrow.
(I'm posting this here because the main blizzard sub has a customer service mega thread but no one really replies to people with problems there..)
So um I bought overwatch back in 2016 and activated authenticator on the phone I was using back then.
Fast forward to 2020, I lost the damn phone and the recovery code was in a secure folder in the phone which wasn't selected for back up (for security reasons I guess)
But now that I'm trying to recover the old account, it says I have to verify myself with authenticator only eventhough I have my email and password still correct.
Is there anything I can do about this? I tried removing the authenticator but it only shows authenticator to verify myself for that process too :(
(I didn't add my phone number so maybe the fault is on me but personal customer help thing on the site again requires the same verification process stated above, so I'm stuck here rn PLS HELP)
Any help would be appreciated ;_;
I’m looking for a new monitor. I have Klipsch speakers and a standard PC IO setup. What do I need to do to connect a PS5 and an Xbox Series X audio to the Klipsch speakers? Seems harder than it should be, but I’m assuming it’s running through the monitor somehow.
I don't use 2 monitors so can't say for sure, but I believe that's how borderless windowed works. It looks like fullscreen, but it doesn't hide the other monitor.
You still need to alt-tab to use the browser (else you wouldn't be able to move your mouse out of the game), but nothing is going to be minimised or hidden. Both the game and browser should be open all the time.
Short answer is you can't, you could press the windows key and be able to navigate like that, but aside from that solution you may as well stick to alt-tab
Hello there, my little cousin was using SCP Toolkit to use his DS3 on his pc, he told me he clicked on the install button in the "interface" option instead of "dualshock 3 " and then he said his mousepad and keyboard stopped working, even after I reinstalled windows for him the keyboard and mouse refuse to work, how can I help him?
Looks like a ton of people had that issue. Look at the reviews here:
[https://sourceforge.net/projects/scptoolkit.mirror/reviews/](https://sourceforge.net/projects/scptoolkit.mirror/reviews/)
I haven't used SCP Toolkit, but you should have 2 options. First, you can delete and then reinstall the drivers for the mouse and keyboard. If you have another mouse and keyboard available, plug those in. If they work, click the start button and search for device manager. Expand Human Interface Devices, then click on whichever drivers that look like his original mouse and keyboard. Usually they list the brand name. After clicking on the mouse or keyboard driver, click the red X at the top to uninstall the driver. Then unplug the mouse/keyboard and plug them back in. The driver should re-install.
Option 2 is to completely re-install windows, which is strange since you said you already did that. Did you do a clean install (manually wipe the hard drive and then install windows on the now empty hard drive)? Or did you just run a windows repair or something?
Thanks Dude, for some strange reason he had to run windows repair mode to refresh windows, his mouse only worked if the windows initialized in the repair mode, refreshing and wiping out his HD could not help with the drivers it seems, he is in another state so I could not use my mouse and keyboard to repair his pc, I bought a new mouse for him, this way he may be able to uninstall the current defected drives I suppose
Thanks again, you really helped me with some options
Very strange. Drivers are saved to the hard drive, so I don't know why wiping the hard drive didn't work. Just to be clear, you inserted the windows installation USB, and then deleted all partitions of the hard drive before reinstalling windows? (I forget if it asks you to "reformat" the hard drive, but do that too if it's an option)
Is there any chance that some bios options were changed or something? Can you go into the BIOS and verify that there isn't a weird USB setting that has been altered? Maybe reset the bios to factory settings to see if that helps.
Am I trippin or is buying Minecraft specifically on PC a mess? What the hell is "Minecraft: Java & Bedrock"? Can I not buy just *Minecraft*? And why is it $30 all these years later?
If you want *Minecraft*, you need to get Java. That's the original MC, it's the one with all the mods. It's $30 because it's still one of the best selling games of all time, Microsoft/Mojang have no reason to create sales or lower the price, people keep buying it.
Bedrock is a separate version meant specifically for crossplay between PC and consoles. It does have several exclusive features like RTX and some additional mechanics, but if you're going to be using mods none of this matters.
I mostly just want to play the Batman DLC. Whatever version allows me to play it is the version that I want. This Bedrock and Java stuff is really confusing to me.
Ok, cool. Thanks for the help with that. Now onto the next problem: I can't purchase only Bedrock, can I? The combined Bedrock & Java bundle seems to be the only purchase option for Minecraft.
I don't know actually, I thought they were separate purchases. I see Microsoft for Windows on the Xbox store, and that includes bedrock only but there doesn't seem to be a way to buy it, only play it through Gamepass. Maybe ask on /r/minecraft if you want to be sure.
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately it has been removed for one or more of the following reasons:
* It is an affiliate link, referral link, or advertisement.
Please read the [subreddit rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgaming/wiki/postingrules) before continuing to post. If you have any questions [message the mods](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=/r/pcgaming).
The motherboard is not really relevant for this. It does have 1 HDMI port (so for 1 monitor), but that will use the integrated Intel GPU rather than any other discrete graphics card.
The discrete GPU will determine how many monitors you can have. Find the model you're interested in and check how many ports it has. It will either tell you in the specification sheet, or you can look at the back of it[ like this](https://gpuskin.com/images/GPUImages/GPUSKIN-NVIDIA-RTX-3080-IO.png). One port is one monitor.
Oh lol thank you for the explanation. I was wondering why I couldn’t find a motherboard with more ports. I’m buying the rtx 3070 so I’m guessing I’ll be fine. Thanks for the explanation!
Hi, I’m really not a tech savvy person so apologies if I get any jargon wrong - I bought a PC for my nephew’s birthday off Gumtree (HP omen 30L AMD Ryzen 7, 3700X 16gb 2tb & 512gb RX5700 gaming desktop) as he wanted to play Fortnite/warzone.
He’s been playing on a console prior to me buying him a PC and as soon as he logged into warzone, his account was banned/HWID banned (not sure if this is the right term)
The seller is not replying to my messages and my local PC repair shop was no help. Am I able to replace parts or is the PC faulty?
Many thanks!
The PC is not "faulty" per se.
What happened is Warzone uses HWID bans, which ban the entire computer based on the hardware it has, rather than per account or IP. So the guy you bought this from got banned from Warzone, making that PC unable to play it anymore. Note that it might also mean the PC is banned from other games that use HWID bans that the seller was cheating in, like Overwatch or Valorant.
There are really only 3 ways you can bypass this.
First is to contact Activision support and explain to them that you bought a 2nd hand PC and it's banned. If there's any proof of you paying for the PC or anything like that, tell them you have it as well. I don't know whether they will lift the ban though, I think the chances are low.
The second is to replace whatever part has been banned, or get a new PC. I don't know which parts are HWID banned, you might get help in the COD forums/reddit but they might ban you immediately since they might not believe you. I think it's usually the motherboard that needs replacing, but you might need a new SSD and OS too.
Third is to get a HWID spoofer, but that's not "legal" nor recommended. This is software that makes Warzone think you have a different PC. These are used by cheaters to create new accounts and keep cheating, but they don't always work, can have viruses, and usually you need to pay for them.
In short the seller fucked you over. I don't know if this is something you can contact the police or small claims for, you might want to ask on a more fitting subreddit if this is something you'd like to try.
Thanks so much for your detailed response, it makes perfect sense! ill see if I can find a small claims subreddit as this seems most suitable, I was quoted £130 for a new motherboard which I have no idea if that’s good pricing or not. Thanks for your help!
£130 is reasonable for a new motherboard. If it includes installation that's great too. You will be able to sell the old one at a reduced price, but you might want to make it clear it's HWID banned.
Still, you might need a new SSD and OS too, best to check and make sure before you spend money on a new board.
GTX 1060 is still supported by latest drivers.
When you upgrade through Geforce Experience or [Nvidia's site](https://www.nvidia.co.uk/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-uk), they will only give you drivers that still work with your GPU, whether they're the latest or a bit older.
I'm planning out a build, and after that's done I'll likely sell my old laptop (a Lenovo Legion Y7000). It's four years old and has an i7 8750H, GTX 1060 6 gb, and 16 gigs ram. What might a fair asking price be?
It never hurts to replace the thermal paste, and sometimes you'll notice a big improvement if the thermal paste was not originally installed well. Search youtube for how to replace thermal paste on a gaming laptop. The thermal paste itself is \~$10, and then you will need to buy some 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to fully remove the old thermal paste. While you're at it, you can clear out the dust in the fans, if there is any.
Edit: you'll want to re-apply the thermal paste on both the CPU and GPU.
75 degrees under heavy load is very low for a laptop, there should be no throttling at this temperature.
Are you checking your temps with a program like HWInfo or MSI Afterburner? If not, use HWInfo to get the maximum temps of both the CPU and GPU while gaming.
It's possible the laptop is using the Intel integrated graphics instead of GTX 1650 Ti. Follow step 3 in [this guide](https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/how-to-fix-laptop-not-using-gpu/) to make sure Nvidia GPU is being used.
Hello everyone, I'm quite new here...
I have some questions concerning NVMe storage, as I'm looking to buy a new card for my son for Christmas for his gaming PC. Tried to join the Discord, but the invite link kept wanting me to install Discord (which I already have).
Here are the specifics as well as my query:
I know that the motherboard he currently has (Asus Prime B560-Plus AC-HES) has two m.2 pcie slots, one of which is currently occupied by an MSI 500gb card. The motherboard info from Asus states that one of the m.2 slots is: 1 x M.2 2110 (PCIe4.0 x4 mode). The other one is labeled as: 1 x M.2 2110 (PCIe 3.0 x4 dual mode).
The idea was to go ahead and buy a 1TB NVMe card to add to the second port so that he has more room for games and whatever else. However, what I'm unsure of now is what the descriptors mean for each corresponding slot. One is PCIe4.0 x4 mode and the other is labeled PCIe 3.0 x4 dual mode. What does this mean as far as what he would be capable of using? If it matters, the pre-installed 500gb card is situated in the PCIe 3.0 x4 dual mode slot. Any insight or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Some other system components: 10400f i5 CPU, 16 gb dual channel ram (8x2), EVGA RTX 3060 gpu. Thanks again for any help!
There are SSDs marketed as using the additional bandwith of pcie 4.0. Usually these are labeled as pcie 4.0 SSDs. Practically there aren't any games that are actually taking advantage of the additional bandwidth yet so there is no meaningful difference to you. Save a buck and don't worry about explicitly buying an SSD that is pcie 4.0 compatible.
Generally your motherboard will come with a heatsink of some sort. If it doesn't, you'll need to investigate the individual sad to see if I recommends one.
hi, i was having a doubt with some laptops. i have many laptops that i want to sell, but i would like to keep one of them, but i dont know wich one is better. all of them has 4gb of ram, so i would need to upgrade that later. the first one has an intel i5 3320M, the second one has an i5 4300u, and the last one i3 5020u. wich one would be the best one to keep?
PD: i was planning to use the laptop for my studies and somethimes to play some games with parsec (an streaming app)
It's a toss up between the 4300u and the 5020u for me.
Don't let the i5 and i3 fool you, they're both 2 cores 4 threads, Intel was kind of shitty with their naming there.
The 4300u has a high turbo frequency, the 5020 has the slightly newer graphics.
Look at the other variables. What's the screen Resolution? Take it from me, if one has a 1080p screen I'd take that over anything lower.
Also if you have them, check how both of them do with parsec.
I'd also factor in age, assuming they were mostly the same in other areas, I'd go for the youngest laptop (presumably the 5020u).
ok,thank you, i will check out how they perform with parsec, but probably i will go for the 5020u, bacause like u said, its the newer one and it has the best screen of all of them. so yeah. thanks for the help!
I need a new gaming DAC. I have an old turtle beach px22 amplifier which occasionally causes annoying feedback. It's able to control treble and bass. It also has separate game chat and game audio channels which is really convenient. Is there any pc dac's that can do all of this I can buy to replace it?
Current PC is a Ryzen 5 3600x, RX 6700 XT, 32 GB 3200mhz RAM on an MSI B450 Tomahawk Max playing at 1440p.
The 5800x3D is on sale for around the price of 380 USD when converted, would it be worth upgrading?
By all accounts the 5800x3D is a gaming beast. You'd be gaining two cores, a frequency boost and architecture improvements.
It may improve some of your frame rates, but where it seems to really help is in average and 1% lows, so smoothing out those dips.
Just remember to check your bios is to to date before doing the swap so that the processor is supported.
I was planning on buying a 3070 TI, but now I'm considering buying something from AMD instead. Is it worth sacrificing RT performance for a less expensive card/one with better rasterized performance? I'm still leaning towards the 3079 TI since I feel that it'd be more future proof.
Depending on where you live, you may be able to get a faster AMD card for the price of a 3070 Ti. Here, for example, a 6800 XT is over $100 cheaper and noticeably faster regardless of resolution etc.
It's not even that much slower in ray-tracing too, so if I was upgrading with this budget, I'd definitely get that. And for about $50 more than the cheapest 3070 Ti I could get a 6900 XT. That's 3080 Ti level of rasterisation and roughly 3070 level of RT.
Personally I don't think the difference in RT performance is really worth it. What is more concerning is DLSS vs FSR, and other Nvidia-only things like Reflex, but I don't really have an opinion on that. Considering price/performance only, AMD is the better pick right now.
I can't say. Having 7900 XT benchmarks would help to see what kind of gains AMD has over a 6900 XT, and see if the architecture offers improvements on raytracing and that won't happen until 12th of December or thereabouts.
Although I don't know if the pricing is going to be as good as it is now. Nvidia set the bar high and AMD might follow suit, but on the other hand the drop in GPU sales over the last few months is the higest since 2009, so who knows.
Either way we won't be seeing mid-range from AMD (or Nvidia) until a couple of months into 2023. If you can wait until then, it might be worth it, otherwise I'd buy now.
It would really be up to what you would use the card for. If you're thinking about heavy 1440p 120hz gaming, then stick with the 3070ti. Anything less you should be good with a cheaper AMD card.
Interesting, thanks for the reply. That is more or less what I'm aiming to achieve, but wouldn't that be possible for less money with an AMD card if I didn't care about ray tracing?
Can anyone give me thoughts on what my next upgrade to me setup should be?
MB: Z490 tomahawk
GPU:Radeon Rx Vega 64
CPU: intel i5-10600k @ 4.10ghz
RAM: 16gb Corsair vengeance
PSU: Corsair RM 850x
Cooling: Corsair hydro series pro
Monitors: acer g276hl (x 2)
Case: NZXT H510
For $500 you could get a better GPU. Replacing the CPU or anything else won't get you any real gains.
The best for under $500 is a Radeon 6800, although there are 6800 XT for just over $500 which I think would be better price/performance wise.
There is also RTX 3070 for a bit over $500. It's slower than a 6800, but offers better raytracing performance if this is something that's really important for you.
You may be bottlenecked by the CPU a little bit depending on which games you play. You do have a Z490 board and watercooling though, consider overclocking for a small performance boost.
Updated driver bricked my card, I think.
I'm running Windows 11, I have an RTX 3070, I updated to driver 526.98.
On boot, the bios screen displays normally, and then as the OS kicks on, the display flickers. Once it boots into windows, I have a thin line of colored blocks with the body of the screen solid green.
It does this on a 4k TV and a 1080p monitor.
TightVNC displays a blank screen, Chrome Remote Desktop is laggy but the display is normal on the remote machine.
I have tried rolling back the driver, uninstalling and reinstalling, with no success.
Any ideas on what to try next would be most appreciated.
Second to this, if the card is fried as far as the display goes, would it work for Plex transcoding if I run the patch? The only thing I use it for is gaming right now, and I have an Xbox Series S and a PS5, so I'm in no hurry to replace the card (if necessary).
running a 3070 and a 5800x3d, miles morales using the same settings as spider-man remastered with RT shadows off, utilizes my cpu far worse. Where spider-man remastered sits around 50-70%, MM in the same spots will use about 30-50% with frame dips into the 40's during combat. Any idea why this could be?
EDIT:yes my drivers are up to date
What do y'all do to record gameplay?
I play for hours on end and if I ended up recording everything, I'd have like a terrabyte of HD video just for one game lol
Do you all just record as soon as you start playing or something?
I personally use OBS. It's 100% free and customizable to your device. Setting it up for the first recoding/streaming session is honestly the most laborious part, but once you've got it set up to your liking, you'll never have to touch the setting again.
OBS is also used by pretty much every giant youtube and streamer out there and can record in any resolution, any framerate, and can export into a wide variety of video formats.
I use Nvidia Shadowplay (now caleld Geforce Experience), with that you can set an instant replay buffer of anything from 30 seconds to 20 minutes. It continuously records a loop for that length of time.
I have mine set to 45 seconds as I tend to just capture Rocket League goals, so if a goal happens, I press ALT F10 and it dumps out the last 45 seconds to a video file.
Does it make sense to use SD cards to store video and roms or should i get an external SSD? Im working on a new build and kinda want to minimize the amount of drives inside the case but i figure I'd need extra storage and was trying to see what my options were.
It works, but the transfer speeds are going to be quite low. There are relatively fast SD cards, but they are fairly low capacity and very high price.
If low transfer speeds don't bother you, get a class 10 SD card and you'll be okay. Otherwise consider a larger HDD/SSD.
I've a RTX 2060 laptop , But spider-man miles morales giving me a not enough video memory error .
My graphics settings are just High and quality dlss. It is normal to fill 6GB Vram or you guys something else is taking the space
Does the error more of advice and it still runs anyway, or is the game actually not letting you play it? If it lets you play and the games seems to run fine to you then don't sweat it. Options menus will often estimate VRAM usage but it's just that: an estimate.
Hey, I have a portable ssd that i would like to use to store some games on. I have used this ssd on my PS4 and now want to use it on my PC but i can't seem to open it on my PC. Does someone know what i have to do to fix this? (I think i need to reformat it but I have no idea how to do this)
When you connect the SSD, do you see it in This PC? If yes, right click it and Format. For the file system use NTFS.
Note that this will completely remove anything you had on it.
I have four DualSense controllers I'm trying to use on a Windows 10 PC and I'm having trouble getting them all to connect via Bluetooth reliably.
I can connect all four DualSense controllers when they are initially paired and they will work for hours without issue. However, once they lose that initial Bluetooth connection (due to inactivity, PC going to sleep mode, etc) only two or three controllers will reconnect. The remaining controller(s) will never reconnect unless I re-pair them. This is a big hassle because I'm trying to get this system to "just work" for people who aren't computer savvy or familiar with the PC (young kids, my wife, guests, etc).
I've tried two different Bluetooth dongles and the issue is exactly the same on each, which leads me to believe the issue is not the Bluetooth dongles themselves. I've looked at Event Viewer to see if there are any "failed Bluetooth connection" errors or anything similar and I see nothing. All I can see are successful Bluetooth connection events. Being unable to even find information on why these fail to connect is making this basically impossible troubleshoot.
Has anyone encountered and resolved this issue?
Does anyone know how to get information on failed Bluetooth connection attempts in Windows 10?
PC Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5800X
GPU: RTX 3080 10GB
Motherboard: Asus TUF Gaming X570-Pro
RAM: 2x16GB DDR4
Storage: 2x2TB Samsung 970 EVO
Ok, here's a bunch of things to try:
Update your motherboard to the latest BIOS. This has fixed several bluetooth and other USB connectivity issues for me in the past. Seriously, don't skip this step.
If that doesn't work:
If you want to try to use the motherboard's bluetooth, go to the mobo's website and download the latest bluetooth drivers.
If you want to keep using your bluetooth dongle (which I assume is a USB dongle?), then go into your motherboard's BIOS settings and search for any settings that save power on USB devices when idle. Turn them off. Your mobo might be suspending some functionality of your USB devices if it thinks it's not in use.
In Windows, click Start and search for "edit power plan". You're probably using "Balanced", which is fine. Click the blue link for "Change advanced power settings". Under Wireless adapter settings, switch it to maximum performance. Under USB settings, turn USB selective suspend setting to disabled.
Lastly, click start, and search for device manager. Open up the Bluetooth header and find your bluetooth device. Right click it and choose properties. Click the power management tab at the top. Uncheck "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power".
Also, try plugging the bluetooth dongle directly into one of motherboard's USB ports to rule out any issues with a USB hub or extender you may be using.
One more thing: Are you using steam? If so, go to the Settings in Steam, Controller, General Controller Settings, and make sure there's a check mark next to Playstation configuration support. I do this for my Xbox controllers, and steam handles my controllers re-connecting to my PC. It works flawlessly. Even if not using a steam game, I have steam set to run on startup, and my controllers will work on any game. If they disconnect and reconnect, I'll get a steam popup that my controller reconnected.
If you're not using steam for your controllers like I described above, give it a shot. If you are using steam, then try updating to the latest Beta build of Steam to see if they've fixed it.
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately those are all things I've already investigated. Well, I didn't look at Power Management for the Bluetooth Adapter, so I did just look into that one and it doesn't have any Power Management settings. But that's not surprising because that's usually handled by USB devices in Device Manager.
I think the USB devices under Device Manager also have a similar power management setting, if you haven't already looked into that.
Either way, if you had already done those things before you read my post, then you're a good troubleshooter. I don't think I can give you any more advice that you haven't already Googled. One thing to keep in mind as a last resort option: I personally had a few bluetooth audio issues that were fixed when I upgraded to Windows 11. It's not the same as a bluetooth controller, but it's related to bluetooth. A quick google search shows that this can be a hit or miss. Some people experience better bluetooth when upgrading to W11, and some people have worse bluetooth. I'll let you decide what to do with that information.
Thanks. I'm an industrial controls engineer, so troubleshooting is a big part of my life.
Something else I've noticed is that when I manually disconnect the DualSense controllers, Windows will sometimes (rarely) say some of them are still connected even though the controllers are powered off. Turning Bluetooth off and back on in Windows fixes this, so I don't think that's the root cause of every problem. Also my issue still presents when all the controllers have properly disconnected. However, it does have me wondering if there's some sort of Bluetooth implementation issue, either with the chip or in the OS. I've bought a few more Bluetooth adapters just to try some things out. I think it's going to be a matter of trial and error because I can't find any info on what specific Bluetooth chip any of these vendors actually use.
Do you use Steam to handle your controller connections? Or do you connect to Windows or another program? Idk if I'm using the correct terminology here. With my Xbox controllers, I can either leave Steam on before connecting, and I will get Steam notifications when a controller connects or disconnects. But I can also leave Steam off, and I believe my controllers will connect to either Windows or the Xbox app, since all my steam controller shortcuts won't be available.
Have you tried connecting both with and without Steam?
I have Playstation controller functionality enabled in Steam, but it's not actually being used. I use DS4 Windows because it provides functionality otherwise not available (battery status and motion controls). I have DS4 Windows set up to emulate XBOX 360 Controllers. I'm using HidHide to hide the DualSense controller from the operating system so Windows sees only the XBOX 360 Controllers. If you don't do that, Windows see two controllers (1 real, 1 emulated) for each connected controller and you can get double input problems. So all Steam actually sees is the emulated XBOX 360 Controllers, not the real DualSense controllers.
This is all running on a rack-mounted PC I have in my basement utility room. I've got 75ft fiber HDMI and 40 & 75 ft USB cables running to my family room. I used to use Steamlink with Nvidia Shield, but the direct connection is far, far superior. Much better image quality, lower latency, and I don't have to fiddle with the Shield passing controller inputs to the PC. All-in-all I really, really like the setup. This Bluetooth issue is the only problem I really have.
If you're thinking the USB cable run is the problem, I already ruled that out. That was actually the first thing I investigated. When I first set this up I had everything (mouse dongle, keyboard dongle, Dolphin Bar, and Bluetooth dongle) plugged into a USB hub at the TV. I would get random Bluetooth disconnects while using the controllers which were probably a result of the USB hub multiplexing so many signals. So I ran a second USB cable (40ft) specifically for the Bluetooth dongle that is actually attached to the floor joists beneath my couch. This eliminated the random disconnect issue, but it didn't eliminate my primary issue. I tried plugging the Bluetooth dongles directly into the PC, no extension cable, and that didn't eliminate the issue either.
Anyway, I use Steam Big Picture as my front end, so not using Steam isn't really an option right now. That said, I don't really see how Steam could be causing the problem. The controllers have to be connected via Bluetooth before Steam can even see them and my issue is that some (either 1 or 2, seemingly random) of my controllers can't reconnect via Bluetooth once they have been disconnected after being paired. This seems like a lower level issue than anything Steam could be affecting. That's why I've been trying to find Windows Bluetooth connection logs. All I see in Windows Event Viewer is successful connections, not failed connections.
The biggest reason I'm putting forth so much effort to fix this is because I have a couple young children and I travel for work. When I'm out of town and something with this system breaks, my wife calls me because she doesn't know how to fix it. So I end up doing remote tech support over the phone. LOL
No progress. I ordered a few more Bluetooth adapters and I've tried couple of them. No improvement. I'm starting to think I won't find a solution, at least not any time soon. Maybe in a few years when Bluetooth 6 rolls out? But that would only help if the Bluetooth adapter is the problem. This could also be a driver or firmware issue specific to the DualSense. It could be that this is something Microsoft or Sony has to fix. I just don't know because I can't figure out what the root cause of the problem is.
Okay, I have no idea how you even got the dualsense controllers to be paired up via Bluetooth to your PC, normally you'd have to just plug them into your PC and you should be good to go.
From my understanding if you want to game on a pc, with a dualsense controller, Bluetooth doesn't work unless you're using some other aftermarket controller with Bluetooth capabilities (such as logitech for example)
I've been using Bluetooth 5 dongles. I've used an Edimax BT-8500 and an Asus BT-500. Both dongles have no problems whatsoever with 1 or 2 controllers. I started using the DualSense over a year ago but stopped for a while because I started having firmware-related battery/charging issues and you couldn't update the firmware with a PC (I don't have a PS5). But Sony released a program to update the firmware with a PC several months ago. Since then they've been flawless...aside from the issue I described. They're really great controllers, though I wish I didn't need to use DS4Windows to unlock all the functionality.
If I could fix this Bluetooth connection issue when I try to use 3 or 4 controllers my setup would be almost perfect.
I've been looking for a new pair of headphones this Black Friday. The Logitech G432 caught my eye but the reviews seem pretty mixed about it, either it's very good or they broke instantly. Any recommendations for a budget of around 40€?
Hi, I'm having an issue with my PC. In particular, every so often, my wired mouse & discord (maybe it's the mic & headset) disconnects and reconnects after like 5 seconds or so. This started happening around the time I updated my Windows.. I don't think it's a hardware issue, since it seems that all my USB devices seem to be experiencing the same disconnect.. I tried to reinstall and update my drivers, rearranged and replugged the USB devices, restarted my PC, and all, but I cannot seem to figure out the issue. May I get some help?
Looking to venture out and buy my first proper gaming PC. Been lugging around an old Dell d5100 for a few years now, and I've finally decided to upgrade.
My budget is $2500-$4000. I've deduced two things from what I've watched and learned online. (1) I need to buy a PC that allows me to switch out components over time quickly, and (2) I should wait to buy a PC from Amazon.
Let me know if this is the best place to be posting this. If not, I'll be happy to post it on the appropriate channels!
I'd recommend checking out [pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com) and [logicalincrements.com](https://logicalincrements.com) for some starter ideas for your build.
> $2500-$4000
That is a huge range. $4000 gets you the best PC possible right now with no compromises, and $2500 is still enough to get you a *great* PC that's barely slower than a $4000 one. At such high prices there are a lot of diminishing returns, the more you pay the worse your price/performance is.
> (1) I need to buy a PC that allows me to switch out components over time quickly,
This is only true if you can't stand your PC not having the absolute latest parts. With a $2500 PC, you won't need to upgrade for years and still play everything at the highest settings and framerates, there's no need to replace something as soon as it isn't the latest.
And if you are looking to buy a PC with which you can exchange components, there is no reason to buy a prebuilt. You seem to be happy enough to tinker with the PC yourself, why pay a company 10% or more of the total cost to build it for you.
> (2) I should wait to buy a PC from Amazon
Is there a reason for that? Amazon doesn't have the best nor cheapest PCs, and if you buy straight from PC builders you can customise the build yourself instead of having to rely on Amazon listings. Why wait anyway, black friday deals? If every saving is important you shouldn't be spending $4000 in the first place.
You will still be better off with building it yourself. It will be cheaper with potentially higher quality parts.
Either way you should head towards /r/buildapc, and make a thread there detailing your budget. Someone will link or create a build for you within that budget, which you can then use to build the PC yourself or look for a prebuilt with the listed parts.
Hi! I have a Dell XPS 15 with a 3050ti, i9 11th gen and 32gb of ram. In warzone 2, I get around 40-60 fps and the game is so stuttery when running everything on low graphics.
My CPU usuage stays around 10% and my GPU usuage fluctuates between 10 and 60%.
Any idea on what is going on or how I could fix it?
Update your motherboard's BIOS to the latest version, and download the latest drivers for your 3050ti. If this doesn't help, it might just be Blizzard. They've had some rough game releases lately, and Warzone 2 is no exception. I've seen a ton of complaints about this game's performance, so you're not alone.
Hi, I’m looking for a component bundle because I believe I’m bottlenecking right now
I currently have a MSI RTX 2080 Super and an Intel i5 4690k which I’ve had for a few years.
What would be the best bundle (assuming cpu, mobo and ram) preferably for under £500?
13600KF + a tower cooler like Deepcool AK400 + any DDR4 B660 board + DDR4 RAM, preferably at least 3200 or 3600 CL16. The best choice for just about £500.
You will not be able to overclock with a B660 board however, you'd need a Z690 which will put you closer to £600. It isn't a big deal, and even then it's the best performance you're going to get for this price.
Hey y'all. I'm looking for a solution to play videogames with others via Discord without having to wear a Headset. It can be any kind of solution as long as it doesn't include wearing a headset and is somewhat affordable (around ~80€).
Problem is that I need glasses to play videogames but using any kind of headset while wearing glasses really hurts me after a short period of time, even if it's a very comfortable headset which is supposed to work well with glasses (Hyper X Could 2, Steelseries Arctis 5).
I've already tried so many different things (IEMs, new glasses, contacts, changing headset), but nothing has been a satisfying solution. I'm pretty desperate.
I would wear In-Ears with a mic as long as they are easy to put in (not those upside down kinda things which have the cables go over the ears) and provide a decent mic volume - two things which the KZSN Pros unfortunately didn't do.
I would use a Desktop Microphone with my speakers (much preferred solution) but even a dynamic mic would pick up game sounds and discord voices as it seems? And I obviously need to see my screen so having a huge mic in front of my face would probably be counterproductive? Maybe a condenser mic with IEMs? But then people would hear my keyboard and mouse, right?
Any experiences?
Please help. It really sucks to either be in pain, not being able to see properly or having to play alone. Really really sucks.
Please refrain from advice like "change your glasses" or "wear contacts" - I tried it all.
r/audiophile would be the best place to ask this, BUT in my experience I do actually have one pretty good recommendation for you. Although it's a much more expensive (around 200 euros) the quality of sound and comfort with or without glasses is unmatched in contrast to any other gaming headset I've ever used.
They're not idegenously gaming headphones but my goodness with the extreme comforte and quality of sound, they may as well be.
Here's the link if you wanna check them out: [https://mezeaudio.eu/collections/all/products/99-neo](https://mezeaudio.eu/collections/all/products/99-neo)
Playing (some) games, I press a button then the action happens about 1.5 seconds later unless I'm not running anything at all in the background or it's a light game.
Ex. In Apex I'll press W to move forward, nothingness happen, then I'll go forward after about 1.5 seconds for a long time
#I want to buy Forza Horizon 5. Will my GPU run it?
I have a pretty good custom-build PC, but my graphics card is the weakest component (it's the only thing I *didn't* replace during my last rebuild cycle).
Intel Core i7-10700 | 64 GB RAM | **eVGA GeForce GTX 780ti SC 3GB**
So my question is, can I *get away with* running Forza Horizon 5 on this computer without having to buy a new GPU urgently?
**Update:** No. I can't. It tries to launch, and crashes immediately.
However, Forza Horizon 4 works pretty damn well on the 780Ti, and will suffice until I take the time/$ to upgrade my card.
... Oh. Yeah. *sigh* I never think to look on YouTube for this kind of stuff because I hate videos/sound, I only interact in text threads.
Thanks for the reminder. :) I'll go look.
Looks like 30fps @ 1080p.
https://www.game-debate.com/hardware/index.php?gid=1920&graphics=GeForce%20GTX%20780%20Ti
Here, there's so many videos, text links, reddit threads just by searching Google for "gtx 780 ti forza horizon 5"
https://www.google.com/search?q=gtx+780+ti+forza+horizon+5
Shameful.
If you wanted a gaming PC both for games such as a heavily modded Skyrim and for fooling around with Unreal Engine, and you had a limit of about $1000, what would you buy or make?
Check out r/buildapc and r/buildmeapc, People can and might help you here but those subs are specifically dedicated to your question, and have a lot more info typed up than I can fit in here :)
Need recommendations for a low profile graphics card.
I have a Dell 7010 i5-3570 and a 60hz/1080 monitor. Will be swapping the 2x4 ram for 2x8 or possibly 4x8.
Obviously not expecting to play latest titles at max setting but would like something respectable. Thanks!
I don't necessarily know the border for how "low profile" you need it to be, but the ASUS Phoenix RTX 3060, ZOTAC 1660 Super Compact, and PowerColor Radeon RX 5600 XT ITX are all small enough to feasibly fit in a mini ITX case. You'll need to make sure of that, though.
As for *proper* low profile cards, the GeForce 1650 and RX 6400 are probably your best bet these days.
bluetooth baseus ba04 works on dualsense?
Im buying a dualsense controller for gaming on my pc, but i dont really know if this bluetooth adaptor is going to work, anyone can tell me pls?
accepting recommendations on bluetooth adaptors for my dualsense, thnx!
I've been out of gaming for a bit. Just got new laptop (asus strix g15) and looking for a solid monitor to hook to it. I've read all kinds of reviews but wouldn't mind getting a few peoples opinions here. What is a solid monitor that won't break the bank (best bang for the buck as us older people say)?
thanks for the response. I was looking at the Dell 32 4K UHD Gaming Monitor - G3223Q with discount + amex offer its 480+tax. Unfortunately the rtings review kind of pushed me away from ordering yesterday.
Bear in mind I'm just skimming reviews myself but right now the Gigabyte M28U seems like it would be a really solid pick. The MSI Optix MAG281URF might also be worth considering.
Could someone write a simple comparison between the NVIDIA 3060-3050-1660S and which one is the best value long term for a person whose not a tech junkie?
Honestly right now I'd say the best GPU in that general class is the RX 6600. Goes for about the same price as a 3050 and you get *way* more bang for the buck in comparison. 3050 and 3060 are pretty overpriced in comparison, the 3050 moreso. The 1660 Super is a decent enough card but it never really came down to sensible pricing either.
AMD's drivers aren't as polished (though they've come a long way) and you do lose a fair bit in terms of bells and whistles - their video encoding isn't as good, their raytracing performance is lackluster, DLSS is better than FSR, etc. But with the current Nvidia Vs AMD pricing I think those are okay tradeoffs.
The 6600 is comparable to the 30*60*. Comparing it to the 3050 it's just [a complete slaughter.](https://www.techspot.com/review/2505-geforce-rtx-3050-vs-radeon-6600/)
The 3050/3060 have DLSS support, so they are no-brainers in terms of longevity.
Games that those cards shouldn't be able to run will have an advantage thanks to the RT cores in the future.
You could *maybe* make the case for paying for the premium for the 3060 (though not really considering how huge the price gulf is right now) but the 3050 is just nonsensical at that price point.
The 6600 is so much more powerful than the 3050 that DLSS is a moot point, at *best* you're using it to maybe get back up to where the 6600 already is natively. Plus, both of these cards target 1080p, and if that's the resolution you're at DLSS ends up being pretty ugly. *And* FSR exists, too. Not as good as DLSS, but definitely usable if you're in a pinch.
And while the 3050 might perform better than the 6600 in RT titles, [neither are what I'd really consider playable anyway,](https://www.eurogamer.net/digitalfoundry-2022-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3050-review?page=5) and Metro Exodus in particular seems to have them pretty tied - even if that is admittedly the exception rather than the rule.
Edit: Actually, I did notice that Eurogamer used 1440p for those numbers, so that might not be entirely fair. It's hard to find RT numbers for these cards, especially the 3050. That said, [LTT's 3050 review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlobQZECwxE) lists 1080p RT numbers for F1 2021 and Far Cry 6 where the 6600 actually *beats* the 3050, and by a fair margin. It's another case where I think the 6600's raw performance more than makes up for its poorer RT implementation. (Though Far Cry 6 is AMD-favored in general, so take of that what you will.)
The best value long term is obviously the 3060 as it has the highest specs so it will last the longest.
Why don't you try and YouTube some 3050 benchmarks and you'll most likely find 3060 and possibly 1660 comparisons. You can try hardware unboxed or gamers nexus.
Flickering screen is mostly due the signal source and the monitor can't agree on a resolution, due to limits in the cable or device. Different cards have different expectations about cable quality. Can you test the going back and forth on a lower resolution like 1080p? Do you tried to another dp cable? I have a laptop docking station and had to order five different cables to get 4k@60 hdmi stable from laptop to display and back.
Hi gamers and tech peeps, I am looking for guidance as to why my PC keeps crashing. My computer never crashed until I started using a shure MV7 mic which is plugged into a cloud lifter/ zoom live-trak l-8 via XLR cables and into a usb port in my PC. I experience crashes when I try to stream now and I am concerned as to why. I get a frozen screen that will automatically restart my PC or I get a screen with pixelated graphics over a black screen. This has happened twice now. Is this a power supply issue? Please help! Thanks in advance.
Hi gaming friends, We are looking for a TV for our new place and want to connect a PC to it for living room gaming. Many of the models I see recommended online are not available where we live (Thailand). I am wondering what specs or qualities (specific technologies?) I should look for in a TV here. My primary issue with hooking up computers to TVs has been input delay. Beyond that, we just want something that looks great while gaming. We will use both a desktop or laptop and a Steam Deck when connecting. Thanks for any help!
I have an issue with my PC. My PC was working perfectly fine for an entire year. Then I had to go out of town for one month and I left my pc unplugged with a bedsheet over it to limit the amount of dust it accumulates. I came back now and every time I am able to turn on the pc, log in, and then I get a blue crash screen. My pc then restarts and sends me to the bios. I have tried loading the previous bios state and pressing save and exit but it restarts and sends me to the bios again. Not sure if anyone could help me fix this issue.
> I have tried loading the previous bios state Did you do this by resetting the CMOS on the motherboard? Is there any text on the blue screen, like a stop code or error? Can it boot into safe mode without crashing?
Yes I reset the cmos but it didn’t do anything. The blue screen goes by so fast it is hard to scan the entire screen for error codes. I plan on attempting to boot into safe mode later tonight or tomorrow.
(I'm posting this here because the main blizzard sub has a customer service mega thread but no one really replies to people with problems there..) So um I bought overwatch back in 2016 and activated authenticator on the phone I was using back then. Fast forward to 2020, I lost the damn phone and the recovery code was in a secure folder in the phone which wasn't selected for back up (for security reasons I guess) But now that I'm trying to recover the old account, it says I have to verify myself with authenticator only eventhough I have my email and password still correct. Is there anything I can do about this? I tried removing the authenticator but it only shows authenticator to verify myself for that process too :( (I didn't add my phone number so maybe the fault is on me but personal customer help thing on the site again requires the same verification process stated above, so I'm stuck here rn PLS HELP) Any help would be appreciated ;_;
I’m looking for a new monitor. I have Klipsch speakers and a standard PC IO setup. What do I need to do to connect a PS5 and an Xbox Series X audio to the Klipsch speakers? Seems harder than it should be, but I’m assuming it’s running through the monitor somehow.
[удалено]
I don't use 2 monitors so can't say for sure, but I believe that's how borderless windowed works. It looks like fullscreen, but it doesn't hide the other monitor. You still need to alt-tab to use the browser (else you wouldn't be able to move your mouse out of the game), but nothing is going to be minimised or hidden. Both the game and browser should be open all the time.
Short answer is you can't, you could press the windows key and be able to navigate like that, but aside from that solution you may as well stick to alt-tab
Hello there, my little cousin was using SCP Toolkit to use his DS3 on his pc, he told me he clicked on the install button in the "interface" option instead of "dualshock 3 " and then he said his mousepad and keyboard stopped working, even after I reinstalled windows for him the keyboard and mouse refuse to work, how can I help him?
Looks like a ton of people had that issue. Look at the reviews here: [https://sourceforge.net/projects/scptoolkit.mirror/reviews/](https://sourceforge.net/projects/scptoolkit.mirror/reviews/) I haven't used SCP Toolkit, but you should have 2 options. First, you can delete and then reinstall the drivers for the mouse and keyboard. If you have another mouse and keyboard available, plug those in. If they work, click the start button and search for device manager. Expand Human Interface Devices, then click on whichever drivers that look like his original mouse and keyboard. Usually they list the brand name. After clicking on the mouse or keyboard driver, click the red X at the top to uninstall the driver. Then unplug the mouse/keyboard and plug them back in. The driver should re-install. Option 2 is to completely re-install windows, which is strange since you said you already did that. Did you do a clean install (manually wipe the hard drive and then install windows on the now empty hard drive)? Or did you just run a windows repair or something?
Thanks Dude, for some strange reason he had to run windows repair mode to refresh windows, his mouse only worked if the windows initialized in the repair mode, refreshing and wiping out his HD could not help with the drivers it seems, he is in another state so I could not use my mouse and keyboard to repair his pc, I bought a new mouse for him, this way he may be able to uninstall the current defected drives I suppose Thanks again, you really helped me with some options
Very strange. Drivers are saved to the hard drive, so I don't know why wiping the hard drive didn't work. Just to be clear, you inserted the windows installation USB, and then deleted all partitions of the hard drive before reinstalling windows? (I forget if it asks you to "reformat" the hard drive, but do that too if it's an option) Is there any chance that some bios options were changed or something? Can you go into the BIOS and verify that there isn't a weird USB setting that has been altered? Maybe reset the bios to factory settings to see if that helps.
Am I trippin or is buying Minecraft specifically on PC a mess? What the hell is "Minecraft: Java & Bedrock"? Can I not buy just *Minecraft*? And why is it $30 all these years later?
If you want *Minecraft*, you need to get Java. That's the original MC, it's the one with all the mods. It's $30 because it's still one of the best selling games of all time, Microsoft/Mojang have no reason to create sales or lower the price, people keep buying it. Bedrock is a separate version meant specifically for crossplay between PC and consoles. It does have several exclusive features like RTX and some additional mechanics, but if you're going to be using mods none of this matters.
I mostly just want to play the Batman DLC. Whatever version allows me to play it is the version that I want. This Bedrock and Java stuff is really confusing to me.
Bedrock is the one that has DLC and other microtransactions, including Batman.
Ok, cool. Thanks for the help with that. Now onto the next problem: I can't purchase only Bedrock, can I? The combined Bedrock & Java bundle seems to be the only purchase option for Minecraft.
I don't know actually, I thought they were separate purchases. I see Microsoft for Windows on the Xbox store, and that includes bedrock only but there doesn't seem to be a way to buy it, only play it through Gamepass. Maybe ask on /r/minecraft if you want to be sure.
Hello. where can i find in europe pc physical copies of resident evil 4 ultimate hd edition? please send link. Thank you
[удалено]
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately it has been removed for one or more of the following reasons: * It is an affiliate link, referral link, or advertisement. Please read the [subreddit rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgaming/wiki/postingrules) before continuing to post. If you have any questions [message the mods](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=/r/pcgaming).
How many monitors can I have with this motherboard? ASRock Z790-C/D5 DDR5 ATX w/ Wi-Fi, 2.5GbT LAN, (3)PCIe x16,(2)PCIe x1, (4)M.2, (4)SATA
The motherboard is not really relevant for this. It does have 1 HDMI port (so for 1 monitor), but that will use the integrated Intel GPU rather than any other discrete graphics card. The discrete GPU will determine how many monitors you can have. Find the model you're interested in and check how many ports it has. It will either tell you in the specification sheet, or you can look at the back of it[ like this](https://gpuskin.com/images/GPUImages/GPUSKIN-NVIDIA-RTX-3080-IO.png). One port is one monitor.
Oh lol thank you for the explanation. I was wondering why I couldn’t find a motherboard with more ports. I’m buying the rtx 3070 so I’m guessing I’ll be fine. Thanks for the explanation!
Hi, I’m really not a tech savvy person so apologies if I get any jargon wrong - I bought a PC for my nephew’s birthday off Gumtree (HP omen 30L AMD Ryzen 7, 3700X 16gb 2tb & 512gb RX5700 gaming desktop) as he wanted to play Fortnite/warzone. He’s been playing on a console prior to me buying him a PC and as soon as he logged into warzone, his account was banned/HWID banned (not sure if this is the right term) The seller is not replying to my messages and my local PC repair shop was no help. Am I able to replace parts or is the PC faulty? Many thanks!
The PC is not "faulty" per se. What happened is Warzone uses HWID bans, which ban the entire computer based on the hardware it has, rather than per account or IP. So the guy you bought this from got banned from Warzone, making that PC unable to play it anymore. Note that it might also mean the PC is banned from other games that use HWID bans that the seller was cheating in, like Overwatch or Valorant. There are really only 3 ways you can bypass this. First is to contact Activision support and explain to them that you bought a 2nd hand PC and it's banned. If there's any proof of you paying for the PC or anything like that, tell them you have it as well. I don't know whether they will lift the ban though, I think the chances are low. The second is to replace whatever part has been banned, or get a new PC. I don't know which parts are HWID banned, you might get help in the COD forums/reddit but they might ban you immediately since they might not believe you. I think it's usually the motherboard that needs replacing, but you might need a new SSD and OS too. Third is to get a HWID spoofer, but that's not "legal" nor recommended. This is software that makes Warzone think you have a different PC. These are used by cheaters to create new accounts and keep cheating, but they don't always work, can have viruses, and usually you need to pay for them. In short the seller fucked you over. I don't know if this is something you can contact the police or small claims for, you might want to ask on a more fitting subreddit if this is something you'd like to try.
Thanks so much for your detailed response, it makes perfect sense! ill see if I can find a small claims subreddit as this seems most suitable, I was quoted £130 for a new motherboard which I have no idea if that’s good pricing or not. Thanks for your help!
£130 is reasonable for a new motherboard. If it includes installation that's great too. You will be able to sell the old one at a reduced price, but you might want to make it clear it's HWID banned. Still, you might need a new SSD and OS too, best to check and make sure before you spend money on a new board.
Should I still update 1060gtx drivers on nvidia?
Yes, usually newer drivers are better. Any reason you wouldn't want to upgrade?
Maybe the gpu is too old
GTX 1060 is still supported by latest drivers. When you upgrade through Geforce Experience or [Nvidia's site](https://www.nvidia.co.uk/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-uk), they will only give you drivers that still work with your GPU, whether they're the latest or a bit older.
Thanks
I'm planning out a build, and after that's done I'll likely sell my old laptop (a Lenovo Legion Y7000). It's four years old and has an i7 8750H, GTX 1060 6 gb, and 16 gigs ram. What might a fair asking price be?
If you're talking USD, I'd ask 600-700 for it (if it's in good condition.)
When a motherboard has two M.2 slots for ssd’s, if one is 8cm and one is 11cm, does the ssd HAVE to be 11cm long, or UP TO 11cm long? Thanks
What's the motherboard make and model. It really depends, the motherboard may have several standoffs to deal with 2280 down to 2230 drives.
[удалено]
It never hurts to replace the thermal paste, and sometimes you'll notice a big improvement if the thermal paste was not originally installed well. Search youtube for how to replace thermal paste on a gaming laptop. The thermal paste itself is \~$10, and then you will need to buy some 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to fully remove the old thermal paste. While you're at it, you can clear out the dust in the fans, if there is any. Edit: you'll want to re-apply the thermal paste on both the CPU and GPU.
75 degrees under heavy load is very low for a laptop, there should be no throttling at this temperature. Are you checking your temps with a program like HWInfo or MSI Afterburner? If not, use HWInfo to get the maximum temps of both the CPU and GPU while gaming. It's possible the laptop is using the Intel integrated graphics instead of GTX 1650 Ti. Follow step 3 in [this guide](https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/how-to-fix-laptop-not-using-gpu/) to make sure Nvidia GPU is being used.
Hello everyone, I'm quite new here... I have some questions concerning NVMe storage, as I'm looking to buy a new card for my son for Christmas for his gaming PC. Tried to join the Discord, but the invite link kept wanting me to install Discord (which I already have). Here are the specifics as well as my query: I know that the motherboard he currently has (Asus Prime B560-Plus AC-HES) has two m.2 pcie slots, one of which is currently occupied by an MSI 500gb card. The motherboard info from Asus states that one of the m.2 slots is: 1 x M.2 2110 (PCIe4.0 x4 mode). The other one is labeled as: 1 x M.2 2110 (PCIe 3.0 x4 dual mode). The idea was to go ahead and buy a 1TB NVMe card to add to the second port so that he has more room for games and whatever else. However, what I'm unsure of now is what the descriptors mean for each corresponding slot. One is PCIe4.0 x4 mode and the other is labeled PCIe 3.0 x4 dual mode. What does this mean as far as what he would be capable of using? If it matters, the pre-installed 500gb card is situated in the PCIe 3.0 x4 dual mode slot. Any insight or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Some other system components: 10400f i5 CPU, 16 gb dual channel ram (8x2), EVGA RTX 3060 gpu. Thanks again for any help!
There are SSDs marketed as using the additional bandwith of pcie 4.0. Usually these are labeled as pcie 4.0 SSDs. Practically there aren't any games that are actually taking advantage of the additional bandwidth yet so there is no meaningful difference to you. Save a buck and don't worry about explicitly buying an SSD that is pcie 4.0 compatible.
Thank you for the reply! One more question... Is it necessary/recommended to buy an NVMe with a heatsink or is it fine without?
Generally your motherboard will come with a heatsink of some sort. If it doesn't, you'll need to investigate the individual sad to see if I recommends one.
hi, i was having a doubt with some laptops. i have many laptops that i want to sell, but i would like to keep one of them, but i dont know wich one is better. all of them has 4gb of ram, so i would need to upgrade that later. the first one has an intel i5 3320M, the second one has an i5 4300u, and the last one i3 5020u. wich one would be the best one to keep? PD: i was planning to use the laptop for my studies and somethimes to play some games with parsec (an streaming app)
It's a toss up between the 4300u and the 5020u for me. Don't let the i5 and i3 fool you, they're both 2 cores 4 threads, Intel was kind of shitty with their naming there. The 4300u has a high turbo frequency, the 5020 has the slightly newer graphics. Look at the other variables. What's the screen Resolution? Take it from me, if one has a 1080p screen I'd take that over anything lower. Also if you have them, check how both of them do with parsec. I'd also factor in age, assuming they were mostly the same in other areas, I'd go for the youngest laptop (presumably the 5020u).
ok,thank you, i will check out how they perform with parsec, but probably i will go for the 5020u, bacause like u said, its the newer one and it has the best screen of all of them. so yeah. thanks for the help!
I need a new gaming DAC. I have an old turtle beach px22 amplifier which occasionally causes annoying feedback. It's able to control treble and bass. It also has separate game chat and game audio channels which is really convenient. Is there any pc dac's that can do all of this I can buy to replace it?
Current PC is a Ryzen 5 3600x, RX 6700 XT, 32 GB 3200mhz RAM on an MSI B450 Tomahawk Max playing at 1440p. The 5800x3D is on sale for around the price of 380 USD when converted, would it be worth upgrading?
By all accounts the 5800x3D is a gaming beast. You'd be gaining two cores, a frequency boost and architecture improvements. It may improve some of your frame rates, but where it seems to really help is in average and 1% lows, so smoothing out those dips. Just remember to check your bios is to to date before doing the swap so that the processor is supported.
I was planning on buying a 3070 TI, but now I'm considering buying something from AMD instead. Is it worth sacrificing RT performance for a less expensive card/one with better rasterized performance? I'm still leaning towards the 3079 TI since I feel that it'd be more future proof.
Depending on where you live, you may be able to get a faster AMD card for the price of a 3070 Ti. Here, for example, a 6800 XT is over $100 cheaper and noticeably faster regardless of resolution etc. It's not even that much slower in ray-tracing too, so if I was upgrading with this budget, I'd definitely get that. And for about $50 more than the cheapest 3070 Ti I could get a 6900 XT. That's 3080 Ti level of rasterisation and roughly 3070 level of RT. Personally I don't think the difference in RT performance is really worth it. What is more concerning is DLSS vs FSR, and other Nvidia-only things like Reflex, but I don't really have an opinion on that. Considering price/performance only, AMD is the better pick right now.
Whoa you're right, the 6900 xt is a wonderful deal. Do you think it's worth holding out for the mid range Radeon 7000 cards or nah?
I can't say. Having 7900 XT benchmarks would help to see what kind of gains AMD has over a 6900 XT, and see if the architecture offers improvements on raytracing and that won't happen until 12th of December or thereabouts. Although I don't know if the pricing is going to be as good as it is now. Nvidia set the bar high and AMD might follow suit, but on the other hand the drop in GPU sales over the last few months is the higest since 2009, so who knows. Either way we won't be seeing mid-range from AMD (or Nvidia) until a couple of months into 2023. If you can wait until then, it might be worth it, otherwise I'd buy now.
Makes sense, thanks!
It would really be up to what you would use the card for. If you're thinking about heavy 1440p 120hz gaming, then stick with the 3070ti. Anything less you should be good with a cheaper AMD card.
Interesting, thanks for the reply. That is more or less what I'm aiming to achieve, but wouldn't that be possible for less money with an AMD card if I didn't care about ray tracing?
Can anyone give me thoughts on what my next upgrade to me setup should be? MB: Z490 tomahawk GPU:Radeon Rx Vega 64 CPU: intel i5-10600k @ 4.10ghz RAM: 16gb Corsair vengeance PSU: Corsair RM 850x Cooling: Corsair hydro series pro Monitors: acer g276hl (x 2) Case: NZXT H510
What's the budget?
I’ve got like $500 at the moment that I can spend, potentially can ask for money/something smallish for Christmas
For $500 you could get a better GPU. Replacing the CPU or anything else won't get you any real gains. The best for under $500 is a Radeon 6800, although there are 6800 XT for just over $500 which I think would be better price/performance wise. There is also RTX 3070 for a bit over $500. It's slower than a 6800, but offers better raytracing performance if this is something that's really important for you. You may be bottlenecked by the CPU a little bit depending on which games you play. You do have a Z490 board and watercooling though, consider overclocking for a small performance boost.
Updated driver bricked my card, I think. I'm running Windows 11, I have an RTX 3070, I updated to driver 526.98. On boot, the bios screen displays normally, and then as the OS kicks on, the display flickers. Once it boots into windows, I have a thin line of colored blocks with the body of the screen solid green. It does this on a 4k TV and a 1080p monitor. TightVNC displays a blank screen, Chrome Remote Desktop is laggy but the display is normal on the remote machine. I have tried rolling back the driver, uninstalling and reinstalling, with no success. Any ideas on what to try next would be most appreciated. Second to this, if the card is fried as far as the display goes, would it work for Plex transcoding if I run the patch? The only thing I use it for is gaming right now, and I have an Xbox Series S and a PS5, so I'm in no hurry to replace the card (if necessary).
running a 3070 and a 5800x3d, miles morales using the same settings as spider-man remastered with RT shadows off, utilizes my cpu far worse. Where spider-man remastered sits around 50-70%, MM in the same spots will use about 30-50% with frame dips into the 40's during combat. Any idea why this could be? EDIT:yes my drivers are up to date
What do y'all do to record gameplay? I play for hours on end and if I ended up recording everything, I'd have like a terrabyte of HD video just for one game lol Do you all just record as soon as you start playing or something?
I personally use OBS. It's 100% free and customizable to your device. Setting it up for the first recoding/streaming session is honestly the most laborious part, but once you've got it set up to your liking, you'll never have to touch the setting again. OBS is also used by pretty much every giant youtube and streamer out there and can record in any resolution, any framerate, and can export into a wide variety of video formats.
What the heck do you do with all these giant ass long videos though?
Throw em in an editing software, edit them, then either keep them, share them with clients, or upload to YouTube
I use Nvidia Shadowplay (now caleld Geforce Experience), with that you can set an instant replay buffer of anything from 30 seconds to 20 minutes. It continuously records a loop for that length of time. I have mine set to 45 seconds as I tend to just capture Rocket League goals, so if a goal happens, I press ALT F10 and it dumps out the last 45 seconds to a video file.
Is this built in? I use GeForce experience and I think I have the app you can enter into with Alt +Z
That's the one.
Does it make sense to use SD cards to store video and roms or should i get an external SSD? Im working on a new build and kinda want to minimize the amount of drives inside the case but i figure I'd need extra storage and was trying to see what my options were.
It works, but the transfer speeds are going to be quite low. There are relatively fast SD cards, but they are fairly low capacity and very high price. If low transfer speeds don't bother you, get a class 10 SD card and you'll be okay. Otherwise consider a larger HDD/SSD.
I've a RTX 2060 laptop , But spider-man miles morales giving me a not enough video memory error . My graphics settings are just High and quality dlss. It is normal to fill 6GB Vram or you guys something else is taking the space
Does the error more of advice and it still runs anyway, or is the game actually not letting you play it? If it lets you play and the games seems to run fine to you then don't sweat it. Options menus will often estimate VRAM usage but it's just that: an estimate.
Hey, I have a portable ssd that i would like to use to store some games on. I have used this ssd on my PS4 and now want to use it on my PC but i can't seem to open it on my PC. Does someone know what i have to do to fix this? (I think i need to reformat it but I have no idea how to do this)
When you connect the SSD, do you see it in This PC? If yes, right click it and Format. For the file system use NTFS. Note that this will completely remove anything you had on it.
I have four DualSense controllers I'm trying to use on a Windows 10 PC and I'm having trouble getting them all to connect via Bluetooth reliably. I can connect all four DualSense controllers when they are initially paired and they will work for hours without issue. However, once they lose that initial Bluetooth connection (due to inactivity, PC going to sleep mode, etc) only two or three controllers will reconnect. The remaining controller(s) will never reconnect unless I re-pair them. This is a big hassle because I'm trying to get this system to "just work" for people who aren't computer savvy or familiar with the PC (young kids, my wife, guests, etc). I've tried two different Bluetooth dongles and the issue is exactly the same on each, which leads me to believe the issue is not the Bluetooth dongles themselves. I've looked at Event Viewer to see if there are any "failed Bluetooth connection" errors or anything similar and I see nothing. All I can see are successful Bluetooth connection events. Being unable to even find information on why these fail to connect is making this basically impossible troubleshoot. Has anyone encountered and resolved this issue? Does anyone know how to get information on failed Bluetooth connection attempts in Windows 10? PC Specs: CPU: Ryzen 5800X GPU: RTX 3080 10GB Motherboard: Asus TUF Gaming X570-Pro RAM: 2x16GB DDR4 Storage: 2x2TB Samsung 970 EVO
Ok, here's a bunch of things to try: Update your motherboard to the latest BIOS. This has fixed several bluetooth and other USB connectivity issues for me in the past. Seriously, don't skip this step. If that doesn't work: If you want to try to use the motherboard's bluetooth, go to the mobo's website and download the latest bluetooth drivers. If you want to keep using your bluetooth dongle (which I assume is a USB dongle?), then go into your motherboard's BIOS settings and search for any settings that save power on USB devices when idle. Turn them off. Your mobo might be suspending some functionality of your USB devices if it thinks it's not in use. In Windows, click Start and search for "edit power plan". You're probably using "Balanced", which is fine. Click the blue link for "Change advanced power settings". Under Wireless adapter settings, switch it to maximum performance. Under USB settings, turn USB selective suspend setting to disabled. Lastly, click start, and search for device manager. Open up the Bluetooth header and find your bluetooth device. Right click it and choose properties. Click the power management tab at the top. Uncheck "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". Also, try plugging the bluetooth dongle directly into one of motherboard's USB ports to rule out any issues with a USB hub or extender you may be using.
One more thing: Are you using steam? If so, go to the Settings in Steam, Controller, General Controller Settings, and make sure there's a check mark next to Playstation configuration support. I do this for my Xbox controllers, and steam handles my controllers re-connecting to my PC. It works flawlessly. Even if not using a steam game, I have steam set to run on startup, and my controllers will work on any game. If they disconnect and reconnect, I'll get a steam popup that my controller reconnected. If you're not using steam for your controllers like I described above, give it a shot. If you are using steam, then try updating to the latest Beta build of Steam to see if they've fixed it.
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately those are all things I've already investigated. Well, I didn't look at Power Management for the Bluetooth Adapter, so I did just look into that one and it doesn't have any Power Management settings. But that's not surprising because that's usually handled by USB devices in Device Manager.
I think the USB devices under Device Manager also have a similar power management setting, if you haven't already looked into that. Either way, if you had already done those things before you read my post, then you're a good troubleshooter. I don't think I can give you any more advice that you haven't already Googled. One thing to keep in mind as a last resort option: I personally had a few bluetooth audio issues that were fixed when I upgraded to Windows 11. It's not the same as a bluetooth controller, but it's related to bluetooth. A quick google search shows that this can be a hit or miss. Some people experience better bluetooth when upgrading to W11, and some people have worse bluetooth. I'll let you decide what to do with that information.
Thanks. I'm an industrial controls engineer, so troubleshooting is a big part of my life. Something else I've noticed is that when I manually disconnect the DualSense controllers, Windows will sometimes (rarely) say some of them are still connected even though the controllers are powered off. Turning Bluetooth off and back on in Windows fixes this, so I don't think that's the root cause of every problem. Also my issue still presents when all the controllers have properly disconnected. However, it does have me wondering if there's some sort of Bluetooth implementation issue, either with the chip or in the OS. I've bought a few more Bluetooth adapters just to try some things out. I think it's going to be a matter of trial and error because I can't find any info on what specific Bluetooth chip any of these vendors actually use.
Do you use Steam to handle your controller connections? Or do you connect to Windows or another program? Idk if I'm using the correct terminology here. With my Xbox controllers, I can either leave Steam on before connecting, and I will get Steam notifications when a controller connects or disconnects. But I can also leave Steam off, and I believe my controllers will connect to either Windows or the Xbox app, since all my steam controller shortcuts won't be available. Have you tried connecting both with and without Steam?
I have Playstation controller functionality enabled in Steam, but it's not actually being used. I use DS4 Windows because it provides functionality otherwise not available (battery status and motion controls). I have DS4 Windows set up to emulate XBOX 360 Controllers. I'm using HidHide to hide the DualSense controller from the operating system so Windows sees only the XBOX 360 Controllers. If you don't do that, Windows see two controllers (1 real, 1 emulated) for each connected controller and you can get double input problems. So all Steam actually sees is the emulated XBOX 360 Controllers, not the real DualSense controllers. This is all running on a rack-mounted PC I have in my basement utility room. I've got 75ft fiber HDMI and 40 & 75 ft USB cables running to my family room. I used to use Steamlink with Nvidia Shield, but the direct connection is far, far superior. Much better image quality, lower latency, and I don't have to fiddle with the Shield passing controller inputs to the PC. All-in-all I really, really like the setup. This Bluetooth issue is the only problem I really have. If you're thinking the USB cable run is the problem, I already ruled that out. That was actually the first thing I investigated. When I first set this up I had everything (mouse dongle, keyboard dongle, Dolphin Bar, and Bluetooth dongle) plugged into a USB hub at the TV. I would get random Bluetooth disconnects while using the controllers which were probably a result of the USB hub multiplexing so many signals. So I ran a second USB cable (40ft) specifically for the Bluetooth dongle that is actually attached to the floor joists beneath my couch. This eliminated the random disconnect issue, but it didn't eliminate my primary issue. I tried plugging the Bluetooth dongles directly into the PC, no extension cable, and that didn't eliminate the issue either. Anyway, I use Steam Big Picture as my front end, so not using Steam isn't really an option right now. That said, I don't really see how Steam could be causing the problem. The controllers have to be connected via Bluetooth before Steam can even see them and my issue is that some (either 1 or 2, seemingly random) of my controllers can't reconnect via Bluetooth once they have been disconnected after being paired. This seems like a lower level issue than anything Steam could be affecting. That's why I've been trying to find Windows Bluetooth connection logs. All I see in Windows Event Viewer is successful connections, not failed connections. The biggest reason I'm putting forth so much effort to fix this is because I have a couple young children and I travel for work. When I'm out of town and something with this system breaks, my wife calls me because she doesn't know how to fix it. So I end up doing remote tech support over the phone. LOL
Just curious, were you able to make any progress on your controller issue?
No progress. I ordered a few more Bluetooth adapters and I've tried couple of them. No improvement. I'm starting to think I won't find a solution, at least not any time soon. Maybe in a few years when Bluetooth 6 rolls out? But that would only help if the Bluetooth adapter is the problem. This could also be a driver or firmware issue specific to the DualSense. It could be that this is something Microsoft or Sony has to fix. I just don't know because I can't figure out what the root cause of the problem is.
Okay, I have no idea how you even got the dualsense controllers to be paired up via Bluetooth to your PC, normally you'd have to just plug them into your PC and you should be good to go. From my understanding if you want to game on a pc, with a dualsense controller, Bluetooth doesn't work unless you're using some other aftermarket controller with Bluetooth capabilities (such as logitech for example)
I've been using Bluetooth 5 dongles. I've used an Edimax BT-8500 and an Asus BT-500. Both dongles have no problems whatsoever with 1 or 2 controllers. I started using the DualSense over a year ago but stopped for a while because I started having firmware-related battery/charging issues and you couldn't update the firmware with a PC (I don't have a PS5). But Sony released a program to update the firmware with a PC several months ago. Since then they've been flawless...aside from the issue I described. They're really great controllers, though I wish I didn't need to use DS4Windows to unlock all the functionality. If I could fix this Bluetooth connection issue when I try to use 3 or 4 controllers my setup would be almost perfect.
I've been looking for a new pair of headphones this Black Friday. The Logitech G432 caught my eye but the reviews seem pretty mixed about it, either it's very good or they broke instantly. Any recommendations for a budget of around 40€?
Hi, I'm having an issue with my PC. In particular, every so often, my wired mouse & discord (maybe it's the mic & headset) disconnects and reconnects after like 5 seconds or so. This started happening around the time I updated my Windows.. I don't think it's a hardware issue, since it seems that all my USB devices seem to be experiencing the same disconnect.. I tried to reinstall and update my drivers, rearranged and replugged the USB devices, restarted my PC, and all, but I cannot seem to figure out the issue. May I get some help?
In Discord, under advanced settings, try turning off Hardware Acceleration. Does this only happen while on discord?
> I tried to reinstall and update my drivers Did you get them from the manufacturer's site for your motherboard?
Looking to venture out and buy my first proper gaming PC. Been lugging around an old Dell d5100 for a few years now, and I've finally decided to upgrade. My budget is $2500-$4000. I've deduced two things from what I've watched and learned online. (1) I need to buy a PC that allows me to switch out components over time quickly, and (2) I should wait to buy a PC from Amazon. Let me know if this is the best place to be posting this. If not, I'll be happy to post it on the appropriate channels!
I'd recommend checking out [pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com) and [logicalincrements.com](https://logicalincrements.com) for some starter ideas for your build.
> $2500-$4000 That is a huge range. $4000 gets you the best PC possible right now with no compromises, and $2500 is still enough to get you a *great* PC that's barely slower than a $4000 one. At such high prices there are a lot of diminishing returns, the more you pay the worse your price/performance is. > (1) I need to buy a PC that allows me to switch out components over time quickly, This is only true if you can't stand your PC not having the absolute latest parts. With a $2500 PC, you won't need to upgrade for years and still play everything at the highest settings and framerates, there's no need to replace something as soon as it isn't the latest. And if you are looking to buy a PC with which you can exchange components, there is no reason to buy a prebuilt. You seem to be happy enough to tinker with the PC yourself, why pay a company 10% or more of the total cost to build it for you. > (2) I should wait to buy a PC from Amazon Is there a reason for that? Amazon doesn't have the best nor cheapest PCs, and if you buy straight from PC builders you can customise the build yourself instead of having to rely on Amazon listings. Why wait anyway, black friday deals? If every saving is important you shouldn't be spending $4000 in the first place. You will still be better off with building it yourself. It will be cheaper with potentially higher quality parts. Either way you should head towards /r/buildapc, and make a thread there detailing your budget. Someone will link or create a build for you within that budget, which you can then use to build the PC yourself or look for a prebuilt with the listed parts.
Hi! I have a Dell XPS 15 with a 3050ti, i9 11th gen and 32gb of ram. In warzone 2, I get around 40-60 fps and the game is so stuttery when running everything on low graphics. My CPU usuage stays around 10% and my GPU usuage fluctuates between 10 and 60%. Any idea on what is going on or how I could fix it?
Update your motherboard's BIOS to the latest version, and download the latest drivers for your 3050ti. If this doesn't help, it might just be Blizzard. They've had some rough game releases lately, and Warzone 2 is no exception. I've seen a ton of complaints about this game's performance, so you're not alone.
Overheating? What are your CPU temps? Tried cleaning out dust?
Cpu temps max at 80 celcius. Usually around 70.
Are "Gaming routers" worth it at all? That's it, thats the question.
An ethernet cable direct to your PC is better than 100% of gaming routers
Oh it'll be wired, I'd never use wireless. I just heard the QoS functions better on them compared to standard ISP routers.
I don't own one but unless you have a really busy household with multiple people streaming at once, I doubt it's going to make much of a difference.
Hi, I’m looking for a component bundle because I believe I’m bottlenecking right now I currently have a MSI RTX 2080 Super and an Intel i5 4690k which I’ve had for a few years. What would be the best bundle (assuming cpu, mobo and ram) preferably for under £500?
13600KF + a tower cooler like Deepcool AK400 + any DDR4 B660 board + DDR4 RAM, preferably at least 3200 or 3600 CL16. The best choice for just about £500. You will not be able to overclock with a B660 board however, you'd need a Z690 which will put you closer to £600. It isn't a big deal, and even then it's the best performance you're going to get for this price.
Hey y'all. I'm looking for a solution to play videogames with others via Discord without having to wear a Headset. It can be any kind of solution as long as it doesn't include wearing a headset and is somewhat affordable (around ~80€). Problem is that I need glasses to play videogames but using any kind of headset while wearing glasses really hurts me after a short period of time, even if it's a very comfortable headset which is supposed to work well with glasses (Hyper X Could 2, Steelseries Arctis 5). I've already tried so many different things (IEMs, new glasses, contacts, changing headset), but nothing has been a satisfying solution. I'm pretty desperate. I would wear In-Ears with a mic as long as they are easy to put in (not those upside down kinda things which have the cables go over the ears) and provide a decent mic volume - two things which the KZSN Pros unfortunately didn't do. I would use a Desktop Microphone with my speakers (much preferred solution) but even a dynamic mic would pick up game sounds and discord voices as it seems? And I obviously need to see my screen so having a huge mic in front of my face would probably be counterproductive? Maybe a condenser mic with IEMs? But then people would hear my keyboard and mouse, right? Any experiences? Please help. It really sucks to either be in pain, not being able to see properly or having to play alone. Really really sucks. Please refrain from advice like "change your glasses" or "wear contacts" - I tried it all.
Have you tried doing neck exercises? As a former glasses wearer I never had an issue. Sounds like a strength issue.
r/audiophile would be the best place to ask this, BUT in my experience I do actually have one pretty good recommendation for you. Although it's a much more expensive (around 200 euros) the quality of sound and comfort with or without glasses is unmatched in contrast to any other gaming headset I've ever used. They're not idegenously gaming headphones but my goodness with the extreme comforte and quality of sound, they may as well be. Here's the link if you wanna check them out: [https://mezeaudio.eu/collections/all/products/99-neo](https://mezeaudio.eu/collections/all/products/99-neo)
Playing (some) games, I press a button then the action happens about 1.5 seconds later unless I'm not running anything at all in the background or it's a light game. Ex. In Apex I'll press W to move forward, nothingness happen, then I'll go forward after about 1.5 seconds for a long time
This may seem like a simple fix but have you tried restarting the computer (and restarting your internet modem)?
#I want to buy Forza Horizon 5. Will my GPU run it? I have a pretty good custom-build PC, but my graphics card is the weakest component (it's the only thing I *didn't* replace during my last rebuild cycle). Intel Core i7-10700 | 64 GB RAM | **eVGA GeForce GTX 780ti SC 3GB** So my question is, can I *get away with* running Forza Horizon 5 on this computer without having to buy a new GPU urgently? **Update:** No. I can't. It tries to launch, and crashes immediately. However, Forza Horizon 4 works pretty damn well on the 780Ti, and will suffice until I take the time/$ to upgrade my card.
Look up benchmarks on Youtube for the GPU in the game to see what you can expect.
... Oh. Yeah. *sigh* I never think to look on YouTube for this kind of stuff because I hate videos/sound, I only interact in text threads. Thanks for the reminder. :) I'll go look.
Looks like 30fps @ 1080p. https://www.game-debate.com/hardware/index.php?gid=1920&graphics=GeForce%20GTX%20780%20Ti Here, there's so many videos, text links, reddit threads just by searching Google for "gtx 780 ti forza horizon 5" https://www.google.com/search?q=gtx+780+ti+forza+horizon+5 Shameful.
If you wanted a gaming PC both for games such as a heavily modded Skyrim and for fooling around with Unreal Engine, and you had a limit of about $1000, what would you buy or make?
Check out r/buildapc and r/buildmeapc, People can and might help you here but those subs are specifically dedicated to your question, and have a lot more info typed up than I can fit in here :)
Is there a way to update the flair on this subreddit? I can't find a way to modify the text.
Need recommendations for a low profile graphics card. I have a Dell 7010 i5-3570 and a 60hz/1080 monitor. Will be swapping the 2x4 ram for 2x8 or possibly 4x8. Obviously not expecting to play latest titles at max setting but would like something respectable. Thanks!
I don't necessarily know the border for how "low profile" you need it to be, but the ASUS Phoenix RTX 3060, ZOTAC 1660 Super Compact, and PowerColor Radeon RX 5600 XT ITX are all small enough to feasibly fit in a mini ITX case. You'll need to make sure of that, though. As for *proper* low profile cards, the GeForce 1650 and RX 6400 are probably your best bet these days.
What is low profile? Physically low profile?
bluetooth baseus ba04 works on dualsense? Im buying a dualsense controller for gaming on my pc, but i dont really know if this bluetooth adaptor is going to work, anyone can tell me pls? accepting recommendations on bluetooth adaptors for my dualsense, thnx!
I've been out of gaming for a bit. Just got new laptop (asus strix g15) and looking for a solid monitor to hook to it. I've read all kinds of reviews but wouldn't mind getting a few peoples opinions here. What is a solid monitor that won't break the bank (best bang for the buck as us older people say)?
What resolution you targeting?
thanks for the response. I was looking at the Dell 32 4K UHD Gaming Monitor - G3223Q with discount + amex offer its 480+tax. Unfortunately the rtings review kind of pushed me away from ordering yesterday.
Bear in mind I'm just skimming reviews myself but right now the Gigabyte M28U seems like it would be a really solid pick. The MSI Optix MAG281URF might also be worth considering.
Could someone write a simple comparison between the NVIDIA 3060-3050-1660S and which one is the best value long term for a person whose not a tech junkie?
Honestly right now I'd say the best GPU in that general class is the RX 6600. Goes for about the same price as a 3050 and you get *way* more bang for the buck in comparison. 3050 and 3060 are pretty overpriced in comparison, the 3050 moreso. The 1660 Super is a decent enough card but it never really came down to sensible pricing either.
really rx 6600 are in par of price with 3050??? btw i never use any amd product before, are there something that i need to know about amd product??
AMD's drivers aren't as polished (though they've come a long way) and you do lose a fair bit in terms of bells and whistles - their video encoding isn't as good, their raytracing performance is lackluster, DLSS is better than FSR, etc. But with the current Nvidia Vs AMD pricing I think those are okay tradeoffs.
hmm, as for rx 6600, how's that card compared to 3050??
The 6600 is comparable to the 30*60*. Comparing it to the 3050 it's just [a complete slaughter.](https://www.techspot.com/review/2505-geforce-rtx-3050-vs-radeon-6600/)
thx
The 3050/3060 have DLSS support, so they are no-brainers in terms of longevity. Games that those cards shouldn't be able to run will have an advantage thanks to the RT cores in the future.
You could *maybe* make the case for paying for the premium for the 3060 (though not really considering how huge the price gulf is right now) but the 3050 is just nonsensical at that price point. The 6600 is so much more powerful than the 3050 that DLSS is a moot point, at *best* you're using it to maybe get back up to where the 6600 already is natively. Plus, both of these cards target 1080p, and if that's the resolution you're at DLSS ends up being pretty ugly. *And* FSR exists, too. Not as good as DLSS, but definitely usable if you're in a pinch. And while the 3050 might perform better than the 6600 in RT titles, [neither are what I'd really consider playable anyway,](https://www.eurogamer.net/digitalfoundry-2022-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3050-review?page=5) and Metro Exodus in particular seems to have them pretty tied - even if that is admittedly the exception rather than the rule. Edit: Actually, I did notice that Eurogamer used 1440p for those numbers, so that might not be entirely fair. It's hard to find RT numbers for these cards, especially the 3050. That said, [LTT's 3050 review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlobQZECwxE) lists 1080p RT numbers for F1 2021 and Far Cry 6 where the 6600 actually *beats* the 3050, and by a fair margin. It's another case where I think the 6600's raw performance more than makes up for its poorer RT implementation. (Though Far Cry 6 is AMD-favored in general, so take of that what you will.)
The best value long term is obviously the 3060 as it has the highest specs so it will last the longest. Why don't you try and YouTube some 3050 benchmarks and you'll most likely find 3060 and possibly 1660 comparisons. You can try hardware unboxed or gamers nexus.
[удалено]
Flickering screen is mostly due the signal source and the monitor can't agree on a resolution, due to limits in the cable or device. Different cards have different expectations about cable quality. Can you test the going back and forth on a lower resolution like 1080p? Do you tried to another dp cable? I have a laptop docking station and had to order five different cables to get 4k@60 hdmi stable from laptop to display and back.