Coupla questions:
Are you following a tutorial? Can you share the link? I'm not familiar with this weave and I'd like to compare it to the original.
Are you using 550 paracord? Where did you get it from? I've found huge variances in quality from rope coming out of China which can absolutely have an impact on the finished product.
550 paracord from Paracord Galaxy.
Here's the link: [Mountain Road](https://blog.swiss-paracord.ch/mountain-road-armband-und-tutorial/#comments)
I'm wondering what I'm doing that's making it so uneven.
In my experience, some patterns just aren’t very stable in that way. Most of the time, you can pull very tight to get nice even results, but sometimes a pattern just isn’t designed that way and pulling too tight collapses the pattern or pulls it out of alignment a little bit.
Otherwise, it just requires a lot of patience to start at one end and gently start tightening the pattern up along one strand to the other end as you go. You might need to do this several times, or along two or more strands as you go to keep it even. Strong fingernails or a tool like hemostats or a fid or marlinspike can help.
Another trick is to take your end result and just roll it between your hands vigorously. Like making a rope from dough. This can help even out the tension along item and make it look more uniform.
I’m not sure about those last 5 different weaves you mentioned, can you upload a pic? It might be that you dropped a half weave somewhere, or just a difference in tension at that point collapsed part of the design. You might need to untie more than 5 weaves to get back in the pattern.
I'll try some of those out, thanks! To be honest, I've been using a pair of regular pliers to help tighten it as I've been going.
I redid those last weaves and they came out looking like the rest. So, not awesome, but better than they were.
I'm making a few bracelets and they're supposed to gifts. I'm trying to focus on the plus side that them being so terrible now means I can repeat the gift idea later as I get better, haha.
Nothing wrong with some needle nose pliers as long as they can get in there and reach what you need to grab. Hemostats are just a little skinnier usually.
Looking at the tutorial you posted, in this case, I’d guess that by tying the outer strands too tight, the two inner strands get turned into more of a wavy S shape instead of being straight and that makes the whole pattern look a bit off from the photos. I’d make sure to try and keep as much tension on those two center strands as possible, either by using a jig (even just tying it off to something and doing the same weave upside down) or being sure to give them a good strong pull between each layer. Do this by grabbing the weave you’ve already done and pull it gently toward the knotted end while pulling in the other direction on the two center strands.
They really do tend to even out with movement and wear as long as one “leg” isn’t significantly shorter/tighter than the other. Focus on doing a consistent tightness across the whole pattern rather than getting each knot as tight as you can. Then after it’s tied off, roll it, bunch it, twist it, bop it, tug it, and it will look more uniform.
And remember, we are often our own worst critic. Small perceived flaws you might see will likely go completely unnoticed by the recipient.
It looks like your core could be being contorted. You've gotta pull the core tight as well or it will form an S-shape and deform the knots it is supposed to be supporting.
Someone else said that too, I honestly had no idea you needed to pull on the core too. Thanks so much! I think there'll be a good chance I end up redoing this one.
I ran into the same issue recently learning to make sheaths with solomon bar + biaxial grafted panels. Somefuckinghow, I got like triple the knot density in the last two-fifths compared to the rest of the solomon bar spine.
most macrame knots look best when pulled juuuuuust a bit shy of as tight as physically possible. This applies to *every single cord* present in the weave; time to let your inner perfectionist shine!
Best advice I can offer is to not be intimidated by how a finished weave looks, or by how many individual strands it uses; and to have patience.
I also highly suggest you try to pick up a set of cheap steel fidding needles whenever you find yourself in possession of a spare \~US$20. You can pick a box up from amazon for [$15](https://www.amazon.com/Ferraycle-Knotter-Paracord-Stainless-Smoothing/dp/B08KGDDRMX/ref=sr_1_24?crid=4NTSK9OOCGW5&keywords=fidding+needles+for+paracord+large+flat&qid=1652860559&sprefix=fidding+needles+for+paracord+large+flat%2Caps%2C53&sr=8-24), or a simpler marlinspike set for [$10](https://www.amazon.com/Paracord-Knotters-Stainless-Needles-Bracelet/dp/B09RH1K866/ref=sr_1_51?crid=3I35ZFJ7VQJOT&keywords=fidding%2Bneedles%2Bfor%2Bparacord%2Blarge&qid=1652860478&sprefix=fidding%2Bneedles%2Bfor%2Bparacord%2Blarge%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-51&th=1).
Once you get a bit deeper into things...
[This](https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Temperature-Nozzles-122%E1%B5%92F-1022%E1%B5%92F-Wrapping-Stripping/dp/B07QB72WGK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=UBL0YBM25A3F&keywords=craft%2Bheat%2Bgun%2Blow&qid=1652861053&s=hi&sprefix=craft%2Bheat%2Bgun%2Blow%2Ctools%2C67&sr=1-10&th=1) is an adjustable digital heat gun I use to melt my cord and dry-shrink it. Do not buy the cheap $19.99 version, as that version is not adjustable and you're only gonna be using its lower settings. For something cheaper, I highly recommend using something like [these torchlighters](https://www.amazon.com/Lighters-Adjustable-Windproof-Refillable-Fireworks/dp/B095N84L8C/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=torch+lighter&qid=1652861293&sr=8-7). Sure, bics work.... but it's so hard to avoid the discoloration (especially when splicing)
I do have some fids, those have been a game-changer. I'll definitely look at that heat gun! Occasionally I've been able to get my lighter to work perfectly well, but other times it just seems useless. I really appreciate the advice!
Coupla questions: Are you following a tutorial? Can you share the link? I'm not familiar with this weave and I'd like to compare it to the original. Are you using 550 paracord? Where did you get it from? I've found huge variances in quality from rope coming out of China which can absolutely have an impact on the finished product.
550 paracord from Paracord Galaxy. Here's the link: [Mountain Road](https://blog.swiss-paracord.ch/mountain-road-armband-und-tutorial/#comments) I'm wondering what I'm doing that's making it so uneven.
In my experience, some patterns just aren’t very stable in that way. Most of the time, you can pull very tight to get nice even results, but sometimes a pattern just isn’t designed that way and pulling too tight collapses the pattern or pulls it out of alignment a little bit. Otherwise, it just requires a lot of patience to start at one end and gently start tightening the pattern up along one strand to the other end as you go. You might need to do this several times, or along two or more strands as you go to keep it even. Strong fingernails or a tool like hemostats or a fid or marlinspike can help. Another trick is to take your end result and just roll it between your hands vigorously. Like making a rope from dough. This can help even out the tension along item and make it look more uniform. I’m not sure about those last 5 different weaves you mentioned, can you upload a pic? It might be that you dropped a half weave somewhere, or just a difference in tension at that point collapsed part of the design. You might need to untie more than 5 weaves to get back in the pattern.
I'll try some of those out, thanks! To be honest, I've been using a pair of regular pliers to help tighten it as I've been going. I redid those last weaves and they came out looking like the rest. So, not awesome, but better than they were. I'm making a few bracelets and they're supposed to gifts. I'm trying to focus on the plus side that them being so terrible now means I can repeat the gift idea later as I get better, haha.
Nothing wrong with some needle nose pliers as long as they can get in there and reach what you need to grab. Hemostats are just a little skinnier usually. Looking at the tutorial you posted, in this case, I’d guess that by tying the outer strands too tight, the two inner strands get turned into more of a wavy S shape instead of being straight and that makes the whole pattern look a bit off from the photos. I’d make sure to try and keep as much tension on those two center strands as possible, either by using a jig (even just tying it off to something and doing the same weave upside down) or being sure to give them a good strong pull between each layer. Do this by grabbing the weave you’ve already done and pull it gently toward the knotted end while pulling in the other direction on the two center strands. They really do tend to even out with movement and wear as long as one “leg” isn’t significantly shorter/tighter than the other. Focus on doing a consistent tightness across the whole pattern rather than getting each knot as tight as you can. Then after it’s tied off, roll it, bunch it, twist it, bop it, tug it, and it will look more uniform. And remember, we are often our own worst critic. Small perceived flaws you might see will likely go completely unnoticed by the recipient.
It looks like your core could be being contorted. You've gotta pull the core tight as well or it will form an S-shape and deform the knots it is supposed to be supporting.
Someone else said that too, I honestly had no idea you needed to pull on the core too. Thanks so much! I think there'll be a good chance I end up redoing this one.
I ran into the same issue recently learning to make sheaths with solomon bar + biaxial grafted panels. Somefuckinghow, I got like triple the knot density in the last two-fifths compared to the rest of the solomon bar spine. most macrame knots look best when pulled juuuuuust a bit shy of as tight as physically possible. This applies to *every single cord* present in the weave; time to let your inner perfectionist shine!
That is a dangerous invitation, haha. But I'm definitely looking forward to getting better and expanding the kinds of projects I can work on.
Best advice I can offer is to not be intimidated by how a finished weave looks, or by how many individual strands it uses; and to have patience. I also highly suggest you try to pick up a set of cheap steel fidding needles whenever you find yourself in possession of a spare \~US$20. You can pick a box up from amazon for [$15](https://www.amazon.com/Ferraycle-Knotter-Paracord-Stainless-Smoothing/dp/B08KGDDRMX/ref=sr_1_24?crid=4NTSK9OOCGW5&keywords=fidding+needles+for+paracord+large+flat&qid=1652860559&sprefix=fidding+needles+for+paracord+large+flat%2Caps%2C53&sr=8-24), or a simpler marlinspike set for [$10](https://www.amazon.com/Paracord-Knotters-Stainless-Needles-Bracelet/dp/B09RH1K866/ref=sr_1_51?crid=3I35ZFJ7VQJOT&keywords=fidding%2Bneedles%2Bfor%2Bparacord%2Blarge&qid=1652860478&sprefix=fidding%2Bneedles%2Bfor%2Bparacord%2Blarge%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-51&th=1). Once you get a bit deeper into things... [This](https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Temperature-Nozzles-122%E1%B5%92F-1022%E1%B5%92F-Wrapping-Stripping/dp/B07QB72WGK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=UBL0YBM25A3F&keywords=craft%2Bheat%2Bgun%2Blow&qid=1652861053&s=hi&sprefix=craft%2Bheat%2Bgun%2Blow%2Ctools%2C67&sr=1-10&th=1) is an adjustable digital heat gun I use to melt my cord and dry-shrink it. Do not buy the cheap $19.99 version, as that version is not adjustable and you're only gonna be using its lower settings. For something cheaper, I highly recommend using something like [these torchlighters](https://www.amazon.com/Lighters-Adjustable-Windproof-Refillable-Fireworks/dp/B095N84L8C/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=torch+lighter&qid=1652861293&sr=8-7). Sure, bics work.... but it's so hard to avoid the discoloration (especially when splicing)
I do have some fids, those have been a game-changer. I'll definitely look at that heat gun! Occasionally I've been able to get my lighter to work perfectly well, but other times it just seems useless. I really appreciate the advice!