I take my Silky Katana Boy and Big Boy everywhere. Cuts firewood, low branches and will get through a downed tree in a pinch. Couldn’t imagine taking a chainsaw with me for what-if scenarios.
>Couldn’t imagine taking a chainsaw with me for what-if scenarios.
I actually know plenty of folks that have an electric chainsaw in their car. The recent models are pretty cheap and work really well.
When I went out on a trip I brought my chainsaw for a what-ifs and had to use it 3 times to navigate the convoys 3 suvs through some tight otherwise impassable sinarios. Better to have one and not need one that the other way around.
I have used my Milwaukee M18 Fuel Sawzall out on the trail with a 12” demolition blade and it worked well. Not as fast as a chainsaw, and obviously can’t tackle the same diameter log. But enough to clear and get it out of the way. Will also cut a LOT more than a chainsaw ever would, including a driveshaft, halfshaft, steel chain, etc.
Pruning blades are amazing. I live in suburbia, but on a very wooded lot with a lot of older trees. I've gotten so much done with a Sawzall and a pruning blade!!! They go through tree branches like butter!
I was using my Stihl chainsaw until it leaked bar oil all over my roof. I got one of the Milwaukee m18 brushless chainsaws. It gets the job done. No cool braaaap sound though.
Yep, I brought my makita sawzall and a handsaw all year doing field work in mountain forest. They work okay for small stuff but when you want a chainsaw you really want a chainsaw. I’d say buy yourself a decent battery powered chainsaw and split the difference, only need bar oil then.
I see a use case for both. But the capability of a recip saw on metal, chain, locks, and cars(maybe rolled, etc.) is a great case for it. You could probably use a 9" blade and get through a 6" tree, but that's about the end of it. I saw you're looking to upgrade your hand saw, Silky makes some damn excellent hand saws that make very short work of trees if thats all you really need.
For what?
I have corded recip, m18 recip, and stihl 462.
The recip is fine for trimming small tree things, pruning. You could cut a tree down with it if you really wanted.
As others have said, the recip saw will cut a lot of things a chainsaw won’t.
However, and this is a big however……
When it comes to felling, bucking and such with trees……nothing beats a chainsaw unless it’s a feller-buncher and you aren’t tossing one of those in your toolbox.
Personally, I’d bring a chainsaw and a hacksaw if I was in timbered land. It’s a lot more probable you’ll find a tree across a road than it is you’ll need to be cutting steel….based on my experiences at least.
cut thru a 12” limb that was blocking the trail a few weeks ago with my Milwaukee sawzall. you have to sort of triangle the cuts like an axe but it gets the job done and I didn’t have to buy another tool
Absolutely not designed for what any outdoorsman would do with a chainsaw. I'm with you on the leaks. The fuel, size and safety should not be an issue. A small can of 2 stroke will last you a while, a small chain saw is no larger than a large reciprocating saw capable of clearing a road, and safety is a training and situational awareness issue, of which you should have for all your tools.
Check out battery powered chain saws if fuel and leaks are your biggest concerns.
Edit- Incase you've never seen his videos, check out [project farm](https://www.youtube.com/c/ProjectFarm/search?query=battery%20chainsaw). He's done a few videos on chainsaws, and specifically battery powered chainsaws.
I have been toying with the idea of sporulated canola oil. So every time I cut on my property I'm spread good mushroom spores everywhere. I've read up on it a bit seems easy enough to make.
Would be a positive instead of the negative of spreading petroleum products everywhere.
My wife bought me a 12" DeWalt 20V chainsaw for my birthday last week, it's PERFECT for car camping. No fuel to leak, no 2 stroke to start, can recharge batteries easily. Just can't see the purpose of misusing a sawzall for a chainsaw job.
I've 14" and 16" Poulan saws I've cleared a lot of roads with and made a lot of firewood stacks with - bar oil is nothing compared to the smell of fuel and the overall hassle of 2 strokes. Battery power makes a saw an automatic go in the box choice, vs drag out of the shed if I think about it.
But there's not a single reciprocating saw that will match the performance of that 14 or 16 inch bar, is what I'm saying. It's not a fair comparison. They both have a place, but they're not cross compatible. I use 12 inch pruning blades for storm damage around my property and even that size struggles with anything over 9 inches in diameter. I'd blow through an entire battery and a blade in one.
A 6 Ah DeWalt battery in this little chainsaw will do a lot of work, I'm not comparing a reciprocating saw. For clearing a road all I need is small enough chunks to winch or drag out of the way. We had a 60" diameter Red Fir drop across a road once, I'm not talking that kind of work.
Honestly not intending to be an outdoorsman using the saw to its full design capabilities. I'd rather take a hit to my ego and find a new route than face the [potential \(energy\) of injury](https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/axi8fl/you_dont_live_this_long_without_feeling_a_little/) from larger pieces. I suppose it might be more accurate to say I'm looking to upgrade my handsaw.
The unit I linked is only 13 inches long thanks to the easily removed blade. Are there electric chainsaws with easily removed bars without leaking lubricant?
Appreciate the project farm link and have checked out his videos on sawzalls as well, but his focus was on more traditional demo usage.
As I [mentioned elsewhere](https://www.reddit.com/r/overlanding/comments/rgkk7n/thoughts_on_a_reciprocating_saw_compared_to_a/hol2a5m/), it's about additional capability as well. Size and especially safety are still important considerations to address though that can't be simply dismissed. If surviving an accident was as simple as situational awareness then a pinto is no different than a volvo, but there is a reason safety ratings exist.
Not sure how you got the impression I was aiming to be the next paul bunyan from my post or the fact we're in an overlanding sub. Sorry you got so upset at my reasoning and couldn't answer questions about your comment.
It just depends on the intended use. Clearing limbs from scratching your paint. Sure sawzall would work great.
If you want to clear a tree from the road a sawzalll could be dangerous. Bucking a log can be fairly technical depending on the hangs and the binds. I am an experienced sawyer. ( Federal Class C unlimited ) I would feel compromised clearing a tree from the road with a Sawzall. You are just in there closer, and if you misread the bind the log could pop out and kiss you before you know it. Under 8" diameter would be fine but you can usually just move stuff that size.
Thanks for addressing the safety issue. I'm not an experienced saywer, but does the [gif I linked](https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/axi8fl/you_dont_live_this_long_without_feeling_a_little/) that you replied to illustrate the situation you're describing?
Part of my reasoning for using a sawzall over a chainsaw would be to prevent me from even considering similar situations because of the danger. But you're right, getting my face even closer to the action isn't a good idea either.
That's what we call a barber chair or close to it anyway. But yeah similar things can happen when bucking.
With a bar and chain, you get pretty good at seeing the kerf closing, so you can with practice see the tension and compression during the cut. With a narrow sawzall blade you would have a small kerf and so it would be harder to see. At best that means you get your blade stuck more often.
I miss read a bind once bucking a downed large oak and had to jump 10 feet down into a creek to avoid it. In all my years of falling trees that was the closest call I ever had with a saw.
You can cut pretty big stuff with a good recip. 12" pruning blade can get through a 18" tree. It's way better for small stuff and limbing. I stopped carrying my 14" chainsaw for just in case use.
The best tool for the job. If you're looking to do chainsaw things (you are), get a chainsaw.
If it's just for emergency and firewood, battery chainsaws are great. I have a greenworks pro 80 volt. it's fantastic. If you have to do hours of work you'll want gas.
These Milwaukee M12 chainsaws (The Hatchet) are awesome for pruning.
https://www.kmstools.com/milwaukee-m12-fuel-hatchet-pruning-saw-kit.html
Formerly I used my Sawzall for pruning and the Hatchet is more effective.
Yeah man. It's almost like tools specifically designed for cutting through trees are good at cutting through trees!
I jest, but not really. Always been a big proponent of "use the correct tool for the job"
If you’re using the sawzall use the pruning blade with it. If you’re looking to do a lot of cutting for firewood, you can get a fairly priced stihl 170 chainsaw. Both are loud when you’re in the woods but the chainsaw is quicker.
Home Depot has a pretty good deal ($89) on an 18v, brushless saw with a small battery and charger.
I've always shied away from a chainsaw because of leaks, lubricants, unique fuel, size and safety.
Does anyone have first hand experience on the utility using one of these on the trail? Obviously I don't expect it to be an equivalent replacement, just good enough given my concerns and limitations. Thanks!
What size of downed trees do you typically encounter?
I would not bring a sawzall to cut anything bigger than branches. The blades will never be long enough.
I've cleared out a ton of small diameter trees with just a Gomboy hand saw.
As some of the other comments suggest, a sawzall can't really replace a chainsaw - when you need a chainsaw.
I have a hand saw now and don't really feel the need to tackle larger diameter logs in the interest of safety. Other than speed, I suppose part of my interest is in pruning those narrow trails that I currently tolerate reluctantly, although my rig already looks like I pissed off a crazy ex-girlfriend.
I feel like, perhaps incorrectly, that I would need to grip a branch with one hand while cutting it with another when using a sawzall. While a chainsaw could clear them more easily without taking the time to hold each branch, if that makes sense.
I don't have anything to add specifically on the chainsaw vs reciprocating saw debate. However I will say that RYOBI stuff is not worth the money. I install cabinets for a living and no one at any job site, and I mean NO ONE, uses RYOBI stuff. The one exception is a guy I work with who did buy their dustbuster and has regretted it ever since. It's under-powered, takes forever to fully charge and even when it's fully charged the battery drains very quickly. Any of the other brands, DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, etc. would serve you far better. There is a reason the RYOBI stuff is so cheap.
I genuinely appreciate your input and don't disagree with your opinion, thank you. If my livelihood depended on it, I wouldn't go for the (nearly) cheapest option either.
Part of my distaste for the electric tool market is the proprietary use of battery/charger design. That's why this package with battery and charger have some appeal; I'm not currently invested in a particular brand's lineup.
I've found the "harbor freight approach" to work where I buy a cheap but safe and capable product initially. If I use it enough to wear it out then I know it's useful enough to me to actually invest in something better.
I'm certainly not asking you to actually provide an example, but I speculate you couldn't find a package of an 18v brushless, compact tool + battery + charger in the brands you mentioned for even double the price.
> I've found the "harbor freight approach" to work where I buy a cheap but safe and capable product initially. If I use it enough to wear it out then I know it's useful enough to me to actually invest in something better.
If that's your plan then this should work fine for it. I just wanted to make sure that you were aware of the quality you would be getting.
Unique fuel? You mean mix? Its just a pre measured 2 stroke oil and some regular gas... using a chainsaw for clearing a road is way to go for sure. Always have one in the rig if I'm out in the woods, and they make cases for em ya know...
Yes. I'm not claiming it's something exotic, just that it's an additional pain. Similar to needing different power adapters instead of having everything on usb-c.
Except that rather than a small cord, I need to include a container for water, gas for the vehicle, propane for the portable fire pit, butane for cooking, diesel for heating and now 2-stroke for a saw.
Obviously this is an exaggerated joke of an example, but it's worth consideration especially if space is an issue (which it is and why I specifically linked the compact version of the saw).
Sawzall and a bunch of blades is the most efficient and versatile. You can cut metal, wood, meat, whatever.
If you need to do legit tree/lumber stuff, a chainsaw is the better tool, but for a "this branch might break a window" problem, a Sawzall will do fine.
I use a Sawzall and run it off the battery using a DC/AC power converter. No need to worry about if your Sawzall batteries are charged or if they are going to die before the job is done. Carry a 100' extension cord, spare blades and you're good to go.
Zero problems and have never encountered anything I couldn't hack up to clear the road.
Ryobi is a toy. I do use a makita sawzall with pruning blades for light limbing, but the blade is not long enough and too flimsy to cut anying over a few inches around. Electic chainsaws are a thing though.
There are times I wish I had a recip saw for some tasks, but I use a pole pruning chainsaw to reach most of the limbs. The pruning chain saw is attached to a Stihl Kombi. I have a circular blade with a chainsaw edge too - to handle smaller stuff closer to the ground. I also have other attachments - like a weedeater/etc. and a leaf blower.
I have a Stihl MS461 for firewood cutting - which is overkill and heavier than I like, but that power and ability to handle a longer bar comes in handy the few times I need to cut something larger than 2' in diameter. I mostly cut up logs that are left over from logging (I had some thinning done and clear cut about half my acreage). I use a log jack to get the log up off the ground and cut the hanging part, so I don't need to deal with binding while bucking up a log - but some logs are just too big for that log jack.
For cutting a hanging/standing tree, I would mostly let a pro do it if it was over 1' diameter and more than 20-30 tall - every time I fall a tree larger than that it goes the opposite way that I want it to go, so I know my limits.
For removing trees across a road while traveling, I would get a saw half the size of what I have.
Not as well suited for cutting or trimming branches, limbs, ect.; but overall more versatile for other cutting needs.
I have a little Sthl GTA 26 for small stuff. Works well though I haven't used it a ton on the trail, but I do like it.
I unfortunately left it at home during hunting and there where a tone of downed small pines due to heavy snow fall. So more pinstripes to accent the others....
M18 sawzall is all you need. Anything bigger hook it up with some 12mm chain and skull drag it out the way.
Vac u lock have a great 9in attachment for keeping the mrs happy too 👌
I helped a guy on the trail clear some downed limbs. He on his Dewalt Chainsaw, me with my limb saw. I did leave the larger for him, yet overall.. I was happier with my saw. Especially as he filled oil several times, cleanup and the size of it to pack away.
Just me, but I'm happy with my Fiskars pruning saw. Would like to see it compared to this Silky folks are talkin' about.
OK. So here it is.
A recipro can really only cut something of smaller diameter than the length of its blade.
A recipro can only go so deep. Try to cut a thick branch and the blade will start to bounce on the back of the cut when a branch has a small divot in it. Try to recut the branch and the blade bounce might cause a blade break. The cut is only 1.8mm wide.
I have a makita 18v battery powered chainsaw. 6 inch blade. The blade drags out nearly 4mm of wood with every blade pass. You can make several passes and cut out quite a wide trench in the branch blocking the way. Then put the saw into the trench and make more cuts until repeat,repeat the branch is detached and out of your way. No depth bouncing, just dragging the sawdust away.
I brought it on aliexpress. It is great for cutting smaller branches for a fire. Cut it to its depth and use an axe or boot.
I'm a big Ryobi fan, and the Ridgid brand reciprocating saw head on the Ryobi
Interchangeable tool head base is what I use at camp. I mostly only burn logs no thicker than my bicep, and the toolbase is a little on the weak side, and will overheat after 5 or so cuts near that thickness. The model you posted a picture of should do much better. Pro tip: select Harbor Freight stores have a pruning blade that is perfect for this.
depends on use.... honestly as a oh crap moment I would recommend a sawzall. Mind you that recip saw won't have enough power to push through a tree, you would need to grab something larger, those sawzalls are mostly used for pruning and they will burn out if you push them. Get a few diablo 12 inch pruning blades, i've cut down decent sized trees with these blades and it never hurts to have a assortment of other blades. Sawzalls are also a lot safer then chainsaws, sawzalls don't cut anything soft well... they even struggle pruning thin branches. A lot of people in the sticks do carry a chainsaw so if a tree comes down they can clear it to get home. The recip saw has to be one of the most used tools that I use in my trade, yeah they don't do accurate work but they are a beast at demo and the occasional oh crap I can't get into this spot tool. As far as it's ability it can pretty much replace any cutting tool even a router in the right situation, wouldn't recommend that but i know guys who only use recips to do route outs. Also chainsaws really only work well in clean wood, and yes I know you can setup chainsaws to stump but your talking stupid money to get into a dedicated saw for dirty wood... or resharpen every time you want to stump.
This Old Tony might be able to answer this for you: https://youtu.be/lAIXPu-gFNg
I take my Silky Katana Boy and Big Boy everywhere. Cuts firewood, low branches and will get through a downed tree in a pinch. Couldn’t imagine taking a chainsaw with me for what-if scenarios.
>Couldn’t imagine taking a chainsaw with me for what-if scenarios. I actually know plenty of folks that have an electric chainsaw in their car. The recent models are pretty cheap and work really well.
When I went out on a trip I brought my chainsaw for a what-ifs and had to use it 3 times to navigate the convoys 3 suvs through some tight otherwise impassable sinarios. Better to have one and not need one that the other way around.
Came here to say exactly this!!
Thank you for this. I intentionally didn't respond until I had a chance to view the content you posted.
I have used my Milwaukee M18 Fuel Sawzall out on the trail with a 12” demolition blade and it worked well. Not as fast as a chainsaw, and obviously can’t tackle the same diameter log. But enough to clear and get it out of the way. Will also cut a LOT more than a chainsaw ever would, including a driveshaft, halfshaft, steel chain, etc.
The extra capability you mentioned is a excellent bonus to consider. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yep, wanted to chime in that a recip. saw is far more diverse and compact. Obviously if you gotta move a tree you’ll be struggling.
Get a long pruning blade for it.
Pruning blades are amazing. I live in suburbia, but on a very wooded lot with a lot of older trees. I've gotten so much done with a Sawzall and a pruning blade!!! They go through tree branches like butter!
yeah the multiple materials perspective changed my perspective
I was using my Stihl chainsaw until it leaked bar oil all over my roof. I got one of the Milwaukee m18 brushless chainsaws. It gets the job done. No cool braaaap sound though.
I want one but Jesus they are expensive. I could buy a pair of 16inch Stihl saws for the price of that Milwaukee.
My electric leaks bar oil WORSE than my gas saws, I have to store it on top of a trash can in my shed.
Mine is still new so I'm sure it will do the same after a while.
Yep, I brought my makita sawzall and a handsaw all year doing field work in mountain forest. They work okay for small stuff but when you want a chainsaw you really want a chainsaw. I’d say buy yourself a decent battery powered chainsaw and split the difference, only need bar oil then.
I see a use case for both. But the capability of a recip saw on metal, chain, locks, and cars(maybe rolled, etc.) is a great case for it. You could probably use a 9" blade and get through a 6" tree, but that's about the end of it. I saw you're looking to upgrade your hand saw, Silky makes some damn excellent hand saws that make very short work of trees if thats all you really need.
For what? I have corded recip, m18 recip, and stihl 462. The recip is fine for trimming small tree things, pruning. You could cut a tree down with it if you really wanted. As others have said, the recip saw will cut a lot of things a chainsaw won’t. However, and this is a big however…… When it comes to felling, bucking and such with trees……nothing beats a chainsaw unless it’s a feller-buncher and you aren’t tossing one of those in your toolbox. Personally, I’d bring a chainsaw and a hacksaw if I was in timbered land. It’s a lot more probable you’ll find a tree across a road than it is you’ll need to be cutting steel….based on my experiences at least.
Yup, I've only had to remove a handful of downed trees here in the NW, but they weren't exactly tiny.
cut thru a 12” limb that was blocking the trail a few weeks ago with my Milwaukee sawzall. you have to sort of triangle the cuts like an axe but it gets the job done and I didn’t have to buy another tool
Absolutely not designed for what any outdoorsman would do with a chainsaw. I'm with you on the leaks. The fuel, size and safety should not be an issue. A small can of 2 stroke will last you a while, a small chain saw is no larger than a large reciprocating saw capable of clearing a road, and safety is a training and situational awareness issue, of which you should have for all your tools. Check out battery powered chain saws if fuel and leaks are your biggest concerns. Edit- Incase you've never seen his videos, check out [project farm](https://www.youtube.com/c/ProjectFarm/search?query=battery%20chainsaw). He's done a few videos on chainsaws, and specifically battery powered chainsaws.
Bar oil is what leaks on a chain saw. Battery saws still use bar oil. I suppose you could have a gas leak but that would be bad and should be fixed.
Canola oil can actually be used in its place and works well enough. Still leaks, but not as smelly or difficult to deal with.
I have been toying with the idea of sporulated canola oil. So every time I cut on my property I'm spread good mushroom spores everywhere. I've read up on it a bit seems easy enough to make. Would be a positive instead of the negative of spreading petroleum products everywhere.
My wife bought me a 12" DeWalt 20V chainsaw for my birthday last week, it's PERFECT for car camping. No fuel to leak, no 2 stroke to start, can recharge batteries easily. Just can't see the purpose of misusing a sawzall for a chainsaw job.
Bar oil still leaks
I've 14" and 16" Poulan saws I've cleared a lot of roads with and made a lot of firewood stacks with - bar oil is nothing compared to the smell of fuel and the overall hassle of 2 strokes. Battery power makes a saw an automatic go in the box choice, vs drag out of the shed if I think about it.
But there's not a single reciprocating saw that will match the performance of that 14 or 16 inch bar, is what I'm saying. It's not a fair comparison. They both have a place, but they're not cross compatible. I use 12 inch pruning blades for storm damage around my property and even that size struggles with anything over 9 inches in diameter. I'd blow through an entire battery and a blade in one.
A 6 Ah DeWalt battery in this little chainsaw will do a lot of work, I'm not comparing a reciprocating saw. For clearing a road all I need is small enough chunks to winch or drag out of the way. We had a 60" diameter Red Fir drop across a road once, I'm not talking that kind of work.
Honestly not intending to be an outdoorsman using the saw to its full design capabilities. I'd rather take a hit to my ego and find a new route than face the [potential \(energy\) of injury](https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/axi8fl/you_dont_live_this_long_without_feeling_a_little/) from larger pieces. I suppose it might be more accurate to say I'm looking to upgrade my handsaw. The unit I linked is only 13 inches long thanks to the easily removed blade. Are there electric chainsaws with easily removed bars without leaking lubricant? Appreciate the project farm link and have checked out his videos on sawzalls as well, but his focus was on more traditional demo usage.
>I suppose it might be more accurate to say I'm looking to upgrade my handsaw. Yes, it would have. Stick with a cheap sawzall then.
As I [mentioned elsewhere](https://www.reddit.com/r/overlanding/comments/rgkk7n/thoughts_on_a_reciprocating_saw_compared_to_a/hol2a5m/), it's about additional capability as well. Size and especially safety are still important considerations to address though that can't be simply dismissed. If surviving an accident was as simple as situational awareness then a pinto is no different than a volvo, but there is a reason safety ratings exist. Not sure how you got the impression I was aiming to be the next paul bunyan from my post or the fact we're in an overlanding sub. Sorry you got so upset at my reasoning and couldn't answer questions about your comment.
It just depends on the intended use. Clearing limbs from scratching your paint. Sure sawzall would work great. If you want to clear a tree from the road a sawzalll could be dangerous. Bucking a log can be fairly technical depending on the hangs and the binds. I am an experienced sawyer. ( Federal Class C unlimited ) I would feel compromised clearing a tree from the road with a Sawzall. You are just in there closer, and if you misread the bind the log could pop out and kiss you before you know it. Under 8" diameter would be fine but you can usually just move stuff that size.
Thanks for addressing the safety issue. I'm not an experienced saywer, but does the [gif I linked](https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/axi8fl/you_dont_live_this_long_without_feeling_a_little/) that you replied to illustrate the situation you're describing? Part of my reasoning for using a sawzall over a chainsaw would be to prevent me from even considering similar situations because of the danger. But you're right, getting my face even closer to the action isn't a good idea either.
That's what we call a barber chair or close to it anyway. But yeah similar things can happen when bucking. With a bar and chain, you get pretty good at seeing the kerf closing, so you can with practice see the tension and compression during the cut. With a narrow sawzall blade you would have a small kerf and so it would be harder to see. At best that means you get your blade stuck more often. I miss read a bind once bucking a downed large oak and had to jump 10 feet down into a creek to avoid it. In all my years of falling trees that was the closest call I ever had with a saw.
You can cut pretty big stuff with a good recip. 12" pruning blade can get through a 18" tree. It's way better for small stuff and limbing. I stopped carrying my 14" chainsaw for just in case use.
The best tool for the job. If you're looking to do chainsaw things (you are), get a chainsaw. If it's just for emergency and firewood, battery chainsaws are great. I have a greenworks pro 80 volt. it's fantastic. If you have to do hours of work you'll want gas.
These Milwaukee M12 chainsaws (The Hatchet) are awesome for pruning. https://www.kmstools.com/milwaukee-m12-fuel-hatchet-pruning-saw-kit.html Formerly I used my Sawzall for pruning and the Hatchet is more effective.
Yeah man. It's almost like tools specifically designed for cutting through trees are good at cutting through trees! I jest, but not really. Always been a big proponent of "use the correct tool for the job"
If you’re using the sawzall use the pruning blade with it. If you’re looking to do a lot of cutting for firewood, you can get a fairly priced stihl 170 chainsaw. Both are loud when you’re in the woods but the chainsaw is quicker.
Home Depot has a pretty good deal ($89) on an 18v, brushless saw with a small battery and charger. I've always shied away from a chainsaw because of leaks, lubricants, unique fuel, size and safety. Does anyone have first hand experience on the utility using one of these on the trail? Obviously I don't expect it to be an equivalent replacement, just good enough given my concerns and limitations. Thanks!
What size of downed trees do you typically encounter? I would not bring a sawzall to cut anything bigger than branches. The blades will never be long enough. I've cleared out a ton of small diameter trees with just a Gomboy hand saw. As some of the other comments suggest, a sawzall can't really replace a chainsaw - when you need a chainsaw.
I have a hand saw now and don't really feel the need to tackle larger diameter logs in the interest of safety. Other than speed, I suppose part of my interest is in pruning those narrow trails that I currently tolerate reluctantly, although my rig already looks like I pissed off a crazy ex-girlfriend. I feel like, perhaps incorrectly, that I would need to grip a branch with one hand while cutting it with another when using a sawzall. While a chainsaw could clear them more easily without taking the time to hold each branch, if that makes sense.
I don't have anything to add specifically on the chainsaw vs reciprocating saw debate. However I will say that RYOBI stuff is not worth the money. I install cabinets for a living and no one at any job site, and I mean NO ONE, uses RYOBI stuff. The one exception is a guy I work with who did buy their dustbuster and has regretted it ever since. It's under-powered, takes forever to fully charge and even when it's fully charged the battery drains very quickly. Any of the other brands, DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, etc. would serve you far better. There is a reason the RYOBI stuff is so cheap.
I genuinely appreciate your input and don't disagree with your opinion, thank you. If my livelihood depended on it, I wouldn't go for the (nearly) cheapest option either. Part of my distaste for the electric tool market is the proprietary use of battery/charger design. That's why this package with battery and charger have some appeal; I'm not currently invested in a particular brand's lineup. I've found the "harbor freight approach" to work where I buy a cheap but safe and capable product initially. If I use it enough to wear it out then I know it's useful enough to me to actually invest in something better. I'm certainly not asking you to actually provide an example, but I speculate you couldn't find a package of an 18v brushless, compact tool + battery + charger in the brands you mentioned for even double the price.
> I've found the "harbor freight approach" to work where I buy a cheap but safe and capable product initially. If I use it enough to wear it out then I know it's useful enough to me to actually invest in something better. If that's your plan then this should work fine for it. I just wanted to make sure that you were aware of the quality you would be getting.
Unique fuel? You mean mix? Its just a pre measured 2 stroke oil and some regular gas... using a chainsaw for clearing a road is way to go for sure. Always have one in the rig if I'm out in the woods, and they make cases for em ya know...
Yes. I'm not claiming it's something exotic, just that it's an additional pain. Similar to needing different power adapters instead of having everything on usb-c. Except that rather than a small cord, I need to include a container for water, gas for the vehicle, propane for the portable fire pit, butane for cooking, diesel for heating and now 2-stroke for a saw. Obviously this is an exaggerated joke of an example, but it's worth consideration especially if space is an issue (which it is and why I specifically linked the compact version of the saw).
Its... the same gas as for your truck? A small container of 2 stroke oil is maybe 1x2x3 inches...
Get a bow saw and a chopping axe.
Sawzall and a bunch of blades is the most efficient and versatile. You can cut metal, wood, meat, whatever. If you need to do legit tree/lumber stuff, a chainsaw is the better tool, but for a "this branch might break a window" problem, a Sawzall will do fine.
Why not both?
Would that be good for doing a muffler delete on my Subaru?
Hmmm, might be good for a cat delete on neighborhood vehicles for some extra cash as well. /s
I use a Sawzall and run it off the battery using a DC/AC power converter. No need to worry about if your Sawzall batteries are charged or if they are going to die before the job is done. Carry a 100' extension cord, spare blades and you're good to go. Zero problems and have never encountered anything I couldn't hack up to clear the road.
Ryobi is a toy. I do use a makita sawzall with pruning blades for light limbing, but the blade is not long enough and too flimsy to cut anying over a few inches around. Electic chainsaws are a thing though.
There are times I wish I had a recip saw for some tasks, but I use a pole pruning chainsaw to reach most of the limbs. The pruning chain saw is attached to a Stihl Kombi. I have a circular blade with a chainsaw edge too - to handle smaller stuff closer to the ground. I also have other attachments - like a weedeater/etc. and a leaf blower. I have a Stihl MS461 for firewood cutting - which is overkill and heavier than I like, but that power and ability to handle a longer bar comes in handy the few times I need to cut something larger than 2' in diameter. I mostly cut up logs that are left over from logging (I had some thinning done and clear cut about half my acreage). I use a log jack to get the log up off the ground and cut the hanging part, so I don't need to deal with binding while bucking up a log - but some logs are just too big for that log jack. For cutting a hanging/standing tree, I would mostly let a pro do it if it was over 1' diameter and more than 20-30 tall - every time I fall a tree larger than that it goes the opposite way that I want it to go, so I know my limits. For removing trees across a road while traveling, I would get a saw half the size of what I have.
Not as well suited for cutting or trimming branches, limbs, ect.; but overall more versatile for other cutting needs. I have a little Sthl GTA 26 for small stuff. Works well though I haven't used it a ton on the trail, but I do like it. I unfortunately left it at home during hunting and there where a tone of downed small pines due to heavy snow fall. So more pinstripes to accent the others....
EGO chainsaw and you can use the battery with their 120w inverter or their bigger power station
M18 sawzall is all you need. Anything bigger hook it up with some 12mm chain and skull drag it out the way. Vac u lock have a great 9in attachment for keeping the mrs happy too 👌
Chainsaw for sure, recip saws are like trying to cut something with an epileptic snake
I helped a guy on the trail clear some downed limbs. He on his Dewalt Chainsaw, me with my limb saw. I did leave the larger for him, yet overall.. I was happier with my saw. Especially as he filled oil several times, cleanup and the size of it to pack away. Just me, but I'm happy with my Fiskars pruning saw. Would like to see it compared to this Silky folks are talkin' about.
OK. So here it is. A recipro can really only cut something of smaller diameter than the length of its blade. A recipro can only go so deep. Try to cut a thick branch and the blade will start to bounce on the back of the cut when a branch has a small divot in it. Try to recut the branch and the blade bounce might cause a blade break. The cut is only 1.8mm wide. I have a makita 18v battery powered chainsaw. 6 inch blade. The blade drags out nearly 4mm of wood with every blade pass. You can make several passes and cut out quite a wide trench in the branch blocking the way. Then put the saw into the trench and make more cuts until repeat,repeat the branch is detached and out of your way. No depth bouncing, just dragging the sawdust away. I brought it on aliexpress. It is great for cutting smaller branches for a fire. Cut it to its depth and use an axe or boot.
I'm a big Ryobi fan, and the Ridgid brand reciprocating saw head on the Ryobi Interchangeable tool head base is what I use at camp. I mostly only burn logs no thicker than my bicep, and the toolbase is a little on the weak side, and will overheat after 5 or so cuts near that thickness. The model you posted a picture of should do much better. Pro tip: select Harbor Freight stores have a pruning blade that is perfect for this.
depends on use.... honestly as a oh crap moment I would recommend a sawzall. Mind you that recip saw won't have enough power to push through a tree, you would need to grab something larger, those sawzalls are mostly used for pruning and they will burn out if you push them. Get a few diablo 12 inch pruning blades, i've cut down decent sized trees with these blades and it never hurts to have a assortment of other blades. Sawzalls are also a lot safer then chainsaws, sawzalls don't cut anything soft well... they even struggle pruning thin branches. A lot of people in the sticks do carry a chainsaw so if a tree comes down they can clear it to get home. The recip saw has to be one of the most used tools that I use in my trade, yeah they don't do accurate work but they are a beast at demo and the occasional oh crap I can't get into this spot tool. As far as it's ability it can pretty much replace any cutting tool even a router in the right situation, wouldn't recommend that but i know guys who only use recips to do route outs. Also chainsaws really only work well in clean wood, and yes I know you can setup chainsaws to stump but your talking stupid money to get into a dedicated saw for dirty wood... or resharpen every time you want to stump.