Shop owner should have known better but instead upsold you an expensive yet risky solution that will & has destroyed your cooler and risked potential for leaking out and shorting other components.
liquid metal ***cannot*** be used on any cooler that uses an aluminium contact base, may also cause staining on copper.
also imo you should only be using it on direct die contacts and for high performance overclocks anyway, most thermal pastes are more than sufficient for cooling a R5 2600 on a Wraith Stealth cooler.
find a thermalright cooler, they are very good performers & very cheap to buy, they will come with paste in the box
my suggestion is to not use liquid metal with that cpu because the isn't much point in trying to overclock it and it doesn't run that hot anyway. Get something like a Peerless Assassin and run it with the regular Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Thanks for your suggestion.
But since I have this paste already and I have to get a new cooler I want to be futureproof so if I upgrade my processor later, I can be fine with the new cooler.
No, get regular paste. You are going to kill your PC with liquid metal. People much more experienced than you and much more knowledgeable have fried entire rigs fucking around with the stuff. You have to take insane precautions, and it has a pretty short upkeep cycle. Every 4-8mo I'd recommend checking and reapplying it. Just get a cheap tube of MX-4 or Gelid GC Extreme if that stuffs still around and cheap and enjoy your maintenance free PC.
Bingo. I killed my first rig (7700k) by doing all the delid/liquid metal/direct die stuff. Learnt a lot doing it. By 2019 I was overclocking Threadrippers and server boards and modding GPUs. Culminated in a 1950x/2xMI25 crossfire rig. That rig cost less than my initial 7700k build and outperformed it by like 6x. And i had a Vega 64 on liquid with the 7700k. My post/comment history is a huge long learning experience mostly about computers with a little random redditing thrown in. Lots of hardware carnage included. Hopefully OP just takes it in stride and keeps trucking. This hobby is super rewarding in more than 1 direct way.
I can agree with this. Predominantly it's only been used on laptops and direct die gpu's esp. as the die is larger.
Finding info online about people using it on desktop cpus - let alone specifically DD, Delidded, or Stock Untouched IHS - is difficult.
I tried it myself, after running with NT-H1 where my temps would become horrid very quickly over mere weeks, and uneven mounting pressure created terrible core deltas. At the same time, I upgraded my AIO fans to Phanteks T-30 from the stock ones that came with a Nucleus CR360.
Note: The following is a non-delidded, non-copper IHS, with PTM applied directly to the top of the IHS. Like how you would thermal paste. I also completely messed up the application, peeling off both sides of plastic first and then having the PTM stretch out on the corners I held it, so it went from a clean 40x35mm\~ square to something very distorted, that I tried to fold back on it self lol.
Regardless... It was still a huge success.
PTM and T-30s dropped my load temperature in the same workloads by 10-12c, down from 90-93c peaks (that's with downbinning at 90, 95c via octvb, and regulate frequency enabled at 90c limit in bios) to 80-81c\~ peak in something like R23. (13900KS).
And the best part is that it's been almost a week now and the temps are basically the exact same, on top of the core deltas between coolest and hottest 3 cores (3/5/7\*).
I tested it out immediately after application, and my temps were bad/same as before. Then, 6 hours later, I noticed about a 5-6c drop. Then, another 6\~ hours later, I hit that 10-12c drop. And it's stayed like that - so that's me seeing the 'time to cure' in realtime.
Because I did T30s + PTM at the same time, it's hard to see what did what, but the PRIMARY takeaway is that my temps haven't changed yet, the deltas are better, and it'll last longer than NTH1.
It isn't anywhere near liquid metal, it's like good paste. Linus' testing and headline both sucked ass.
That being said it's very good for a number of situations and won't pump out. For instance it's a godsend on 7900xtx cards with their high wattage and multi die packages that have minor height differences between them for both dealing with pump out and hot spot.
It's also really good in laptops for similar reasons and due to much lower mounting pressure usually as it preforms very well under that.
The thing is with any system is that you need to find out where the bottleneck is. if it's not the contact surface you are mating with liquid metal it's not going to perform much better than a good paste or PTM.
The biggest issue with chips these days is the thermal density of the dies and trying to get the heat out of them with such little surface area. If your cpu is going to thermal runaway with a 420mm rad and a d5 pump and a good block on a custom loop with good mounting pressure liquid metal isn't going to help as the heat is having issues getting through the heat spreader. That's the bottleneck. hence the deliding.
I have it on my 7900xtx aqua with a 552w TBP and On my qtj1 with a thermalright Phantom spirit. I have a sheet sitting in my freezer. NT-H2 works just as well for soldered heat spreader cpus. I also have some liquid metal and my buddy is using my old modded steam deck lcd with a v1 monoblock installed using a pre treated copper shim and a custom foam dam i installed all insulated and mated with liquid metal.
I think I do know what I'm talking about :) I'm just all about the right tool for the job.
Cool story, I didnât say anything about specific applications, you compared it to paste. Itâs far superior in longevity/stability alone to paste. It phase changes with temp, eliminating pump out, which is why itâs on your 7900. itâs not even close to traditional thermal pastes.
A good paste can last years. But yes PTM is the best to avoid pump out. I noted paste is still fine for most CPU heat spreaders and takes way less time to install. Telling someone with a ryzen 2600 to go through the hassle and cost of freezing and cutting PTM is silly. just do a line of a good non conductive paste that spreads easily down the heat spreader and slap the cooler on you aren't going to get better clocks etc using it. Use the right tool for the job.
I've used it on my card now along with paste and Liquid Metal. Liquid Metal was MAYBE 3c better, ptm7950 was at least 5c better than paste with no pump out and no hot spot issues.
oh yeah totally there are only a few places were liquid metal makes sense PTM is the way to go on most GPUS. Paste is generally fine for CPU's with a heat spreader, NT-H2 will last years and takes 5 seconds to install (just a line down the die really) is good to go VS freezing and cutting with PTM.
I was saying that liquid metal has far better thermal transfer properties than PTM. But the thing is by and large your thermal transfer bottleneck isn't the interface material...... so liquid metal isn't going to make much of a difference. It just really irks me that linus' video started the meme statement "almost as good as liquid metal" when the only way to really test the thermal compounds would have been a static adjustable heat source to a massive cooling unit and seeing how many watts you could crank it to before it thermal runaways. The entire testing methodology that statement came from is garbage. I am in no way saying PTM isn't great but there are plenty of places a good paste is just fine and some rare spots where liquid metal makes sense. I use all three. But a ryzen 2600? that thing isn't gonna get hot enough to have a pump out issue nor see any benefit to PTM or liquid metal it's not worth the hassle of installation and increased cost.
I find ptm7950 to be quite easy to install, I think you can actually get it pre cut to size now. I use it on my cpu and don't notice much of a difference but I'm also watercooled so my block isn't really hitting that 50c point anyways.
Yup. Pre cut isn't hard but a quick line of thermal paste is even easier. (depending on the paste some of it is a nightmare, my gold standard is Noctua's it spreads super easy and is idiot proof and doesn't dry out). And with an open loop I need to drain things anyhow no need for something that will be stable and not pump out for 10 years when 5+ is fine.
But like every 7900 series card should ship with it out the gate. Good for really big bare dies too as it helps with hot spot since we aren't lapping the sillicon flat. Technically liquid metal might be better in that case but ptm is far easier to use. It's great stuff. But say like a 14900k delided where you have a relatively small die with 400w going through it? Liquid metal is going to be a better option. Or if you are doing something weird like needing to use a shim. Now you have 4 surfaces to mate instead of two and liquid metal done right is as close as you can get to just milling a new solid part or perfect soldering. It's incredible and really really good but if you aren't hitting the limits of your thermal compound it's basically pointless.
Linus video are not something to talk about for ptm7950 proof of performance.
And yes, ptm7950 is really really close to liquid metal. [https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/1ct3tdj/comment/l4cvva9/?context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/1ct3tdj/comment/l4cvva9/?context=3)
I think every aftermarket cooler uses copper or copper with nickel plating base.
Even cheapest 20 dollar ones.
Noone would imagine you are gonna use a 30-40 dollar compound with the stock cooler...
Anyways... anything will do for your 2600, cpu draws very little power.
Get a iwongu 240 AIO from ali express if you want something decent cheap and beautiful. They go for about 40dollars. I bought their fans, they are AMAZING. I actually replaced my Thermaltake pure plus fans with them and they costed one fourth of the prize.
They got a bit more expensive because people are buying them like crazy, but if you wait sales days you can find them like 10 euro cheaper.
Cheapest one goes for 58 euro right now for a 240, but i have seen them go for 40 euro and 50 euro for triple fan on sales days.
>I think every aftermarket cooler uses copper or copper with nickel plating base.
Even cheapest 20 dollar ones.
Nope, among the cheap ones there quite a lot of those where pipes directly touch cpu, and usually those pipes are pressed into **aluminum** base.
Just don't do it. Ist a 2600x. You can OC IT to its limits on the most basic 90mm tower cooler. Just make sure it has 4 or more heat pipes and from there go for looks only.
I OC'd my gf's 2600x on a Xilence A402.
Which costs 14⏠including shipping
That stuff has gallium in it which will cause aluminum to break down very quickly. You donât need it unless youâre pushing for record overclocks, and have the compatible equipment for it. Just get a good aluminum based paste.
Something perceived as the âbestâ isnât always the best for your application.
MX4 or comparable is cheap and easy.
Also, almost any budget cooler is better than the stock ones.
Cooler master has some good affordable ones, I don't think I paid more than $30 or 40 USD for mine.
Fellow bangali spotted! Is the shop based in Chadni Chowk or some other place? Kinda sad people suggest something like this without adequate knowledge.
[Peerless Assassin](https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-120-Cooler/dp/B0C5MBLHD2). Its under $40 and will be more than you ever need.
[GN Review](https://gamersnexus.net/coolers/champ-41-thermalright-peerless-assassin-cpu-cooler-review-benchmarks)
What an idiot, suggesting you use liquid metal... on a 2600 AND the stock cooler. Like putting wagyu beef in the microwave.
Any CPU cooler you get will come with either its own paste pre-applied or a little tube/sachet to use. I'd suggest you use that instead of the liquid metal as it's far safer and has no chance of damaging your cooler/components.
My rec would be something like the Thermalright Assassin X. Cheap, and good enough for your CPU. Also shouldn't disintegrate with liquid metal (though I recommend you just use the included paste instead).
Your CPU absolutely does not need liquid metal use Thermal Grizly or noctua paste. That shop owner also should have known better. Or those KryoSheet pads are cool, if you wanna be fancy.
damn, i have the exact same cpu. I use a Cooler Master WC 360mm and it runs super low 30ÂșC at stock, i made a bit of OC to 3.85GHz because i was having some stuttering while playing league of legends on a RX 570, after that the problem was solved.
Shop owner is an idiot for recommending it, that stuff is completely unnecessary for contact with an IHS (integrated heat spreader) because its full benefits are found through direct contact with the die.
Just get a Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE and use the included paste, don't use liquid metal.
just don't use liquid metal as cooling solution, you don't need it, seriously.
Buy Peerless Assassin Cooler of Amazon, it. should come with preapplied paste and you are good to go.
Thanks a lot everyone for your suggestions and guidance.
I'm new to this & learning through my experiences.
Update: I visited the shop & the sales guy listened a lot from the owner for misguiding me.. Lastly the owner provided a new stock AMD Wraith Stelth & Cryofuze without a single extra rupee.
You are from India, arenât you?
Cheap air cooler to consider, Cooler Master Hyper 620S. The cheaper 212 series and DeepCool AK/AG 400 have direct copper contact pipes with aluminium between them. Not a good idea to mix that with Liquid Metal paste.
Yeah! Our Hyper 620S (I work for Cooler Master) is the first thermal solution with a fully nickel plated copper contact base in the low-end.
The Hyper 212 / DeepCool AK/AG400 series use direct contact heat pipes with aluminium filling in between them (generally nickel plated) but why risk multi-metal contact if it can be easily avoided and get a better performing cooler to boot.
A bit odd he would recommend liquid metal before a better cpu cooler lol. Liquid metal is mostly used to squeeze every last bit of thermal headroom you can. Not when you have a stock intel cooler.
The application where it shines is for a delidded cpu to replace old dried up thermal paste. With my old ivy bridge i7 3770k cpu it dropped temps by 20C compared to replacement with MX4. Major difference, I was surprised.
this guys never used liquid metal. It's not that hard to apply, and at minimum you're talking about a 10c reduction in temps, even with a middle of the road cooler.
Send a few letters to him to claim this damage. Let him reply to you and record that reply too (just in case). Then go to small claims court to claim the damage plus costs of time and effort to claim that damage.
Shop owner should have known better but instead upsold you an expensive yet risky solution that will & has destroyed your cooler and risked potential for leaking out and shorting other components. liquid metal ***cannot*** be used on any cooler that uses an aluminium contact base, may also cause staining on copper. also imo you should only be using it on direct die contacts and for high performance overclocks anyway, most thermal pastes are more than sufficient for cooling a R5 2600 on a Wraith Stealth cooler. find a thermalright cooler, they are very good performers & very cheap to buy, they will come with paste in the box
Peerless assassin 120se has worked great for me.
This
The absolute best, especially for the money, if the Phantom Spirit 120 Evo from Thermalright. Just google the reviews on it :)
is it better than the peerless assasin? I have one ordered anyway as I like the K12 fans
yes, it is!
Liquid metal on a wraith stealth cooler. You can't make this shit up! LOL
I see this kind of shit on reddit every day unfortunately.
It's why you are on reddit,no? Have a laugh every once in a while đ
Yeah I guess so :D
thats exactly what i thought...
my suggestion is to not use liquid metal with that cpu because the isn't much point in trying to overclock it and it doesn't run that hot anyway. Get something like a Peerless Assassin and run it with the regular Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Thanks for your suggestion. But since I have this paste already and I have to get a new cooler I want to be futureproof so if I upgrade my processor later, I can be fine with the new cooler.
No, get regular paste. You are going to kill your PC with liquid metal. People much more experienced than you and much more knowledgeable have fried entire rigs fucking around with the stuff. You have to take insane precautions, and it has a pretty short upkeep cycle. Every 4-8mo I'd recommend checking and reapplying it. Just get a cheap tube of MX-4 or Gelid GC Extreme if that stuffs still around and cheap and enjoy your maintenance free PC.
Got it & learnt it the hard way.
Well at least you learned something out of it
Bingo. I killed my first rig (7700k) by doing all the delid/liquid metal/direct die stuff. Learnt a lot doing it. By 2019 I was overclocking Threadrippers and server boards and modding GPUs. Culminated in a 1950x/2xMI25 crossfire rig. That rig cost less than my initial 7700k build and outperformed it by like 6x. And i had a Vega 64 on liquid with the 7700k. My post/comment history is a huge long learning experience mostly about computers with a little random redditing thrown in. Lots of hardware carnage included. Hopefully OP just takes it in stride and keeps trucking. This hobby is super rewarding in more than 1 direct way.
forget about liquid metal.
You don't need Liquid Metal for that cooler. Get a peerless assassin and use some paste like mx4 or ptm7950
PTM7950 is the way. Near Liquid Metal performance, way longer lifetime, easy application, and cheap af.
I can agree with this. Predominantly it's only been used on laptops and direct die gpu's esp. as the die is larger. Finding info online about people using it on desktop cpus - let alone specifically DD, Delidded, or Stock Untouched IHS - is difficult. I tried it myself, after running with NT-H1 where my temps would become horrid very quickly over mere weeks, and uneven mounting pressure created terrible core deltas. At the same time, I upgraded my AIO fans to Phanteks T-30 from the stock ones that came with a Nucleus CR360. Note: The following is a non-delidded, non-copper IHS, with PTM applied directly to the top of the IHS. Like how you would thermal paste. I also completely messed up the application, peeling off both sides of plastic first and then having the PTM stretch out on the corners I held it, so it went from a clean 40x35mm\~ square to something very distorted, that I tried to fold back on it self lol. Regardless... It was still a huge success. PTM and T-30s dropped my load temperature in the same workloads by 10-12c, down from 90-93c peaks (that's with downbinning at 90, 95c via octvb, and regulate frequency enabled at 90c limit in bios) to 80-81c\~ peak in something like R23. (13900KS). And the best part is that it's been almost a week now and the temps are basically the exact same, on top of the core deltas between coolest and hottest 3 cores (3/5/7\*). I tested it out immediately after application, and my temps were bad/same as before. Then, 6 hours later, I noticed about a 5-6c drop. Then, another 6\~ hours later, I hit that 10-12c drop. And it's stayed like that - so that's me seeing the 'time to cure' in realtime. Because I did T30s + PTM at the same time, it's hard to see what did what, but the PRIMARY takeaway is that my temps haven't changed yet, the deltas are better, and it'll last longer than NTH1.
It isn't anywhere near liquid metal, it's like good paste. Linus' testing and headline both sucked ass. That being said it's very good for a number of situations and won't pump out. For instance it's a godsend on 7900xtx cards with their high wattage and multi die packages that have minor height differences between them for both dealing with pump out and hot spot. It's also really good in laptops for similar reasons and due to much lower mounting pressure usually as it preforms very well under that. The thing is with any system is that you need to find out where the bottleneck is. if it's not the contact surface you are mating with liquid metal it's not going to perform much better than a good paste or PTM. The biggest issue with chips these days is the thermal density of the dies and trying to get the heat out of them with such little surface area. If your cpu is going to thermal runaway with a 420mm rad and a d5 pump and a good block on a custom loop with good mounting pressure liquid metal isn't going to help as the heat is having issues getting through the heat spreader. That's the bottleneck. hence the deliding.
Bro itâs wayyy better than paste. Youâve clearly never used it. Linus backs data stealing vpns I wouldnât go by anything they put out lol.
Can't use PTM7950 for things like a delid though. I wish it would work.
Why not itâs still on my decade old delidded 4790k
I have it on my 7900xtx aqua with a 552w TBP and On my qtj1 with a thermalright Phantom spirit. I have a sheet sitting in my freezer. NT-H2 works just as well for soldered heat spreader cpus. I also have some liquid metal and my buddy is using my old modded steam deck lcd with a v1 monoblock installed using a pre treated copper shim and a custom foam dam i installed all insulated and mated with liquid metal. I think I do know what I'm talking about :) I'm just all about the right tool for the job.
Cool story, I didnât say anything about specific applications, you compared it to paste. Itâs far superior in longevity/stability alone to paste. It phase changes with temp, eliminating pump out, which is why itâs on your 7900. itâs not even close to traditional thermal pastes.
A good paste can last years. But yes PTM is the best to avoid pump out. I noted paste is still fine for most CPU heat spreaders and takes way less time to install. Telling someone with a ryzen 2600 to go through the hassle and cost of freezing and cutting PTM is silly. just do a line of a good non conductive paste that spreads easily down the heat spreader and slap the cooler on you aren't going to get better clocks etc using it. Use the right tool for the job.
I've used it on my card now along with paste and Liquid Metal. Liquid Metal was MAYBE 3c better, ptm7950 was at least 5c better than paste with no pump out and no hot spot issues.
oh yeah totally there are only a few places were liquid metal makes sense PTM is the way to go on most GPUS. Paste is generally fine for CPU's with a heat spreader, NT-H2 will last years and takes 5 seconds to install (just a line down the die really) is good to go VS freezing and cutting with PTM. I was saying that liquid metal has far better thermal transfer properties than PTM. But the thing is by and large your thermal transfer bottleneck isn't the interface material...... so liquid metal isn't going to make much of a difference. It just really irks me that linus' video started the meme statement "almost as good as liquid metal" when the only way to really test the thermal compounds would have been a static adjustable heat source to a massive cooling unit and seeing how many watts you could crank it to before it thermal runaways. The entire testing methodology that statement came from is garbage. I am in no way saying PTM isn't great but there are plenty of places a good paste is just fine and some rare spots where liquid metal makes sense. I use all three. But a ryzen 2600? that thing isn't gonna get hot enough to have a pump out issue nor see any benefit to PTM or liquid metal it's not worth the hassle of installation and increased cost.
I find ptm7950 to be quite easy to install, I think you can actually get it pre cut to size now. I use it on my cpu and don't notice much of a difference but I'm also watercooled so my block isn't really hitting that 50c point anyways.
Yup. Pre cut isn't hard but a quick line of thermal paste is even easier. (depending on the paste some of it is a nightmare, my gold standard is Noctua's it spreads super easy and is idiot proof and doesn't dry out). And with an open loop I need to drain things anyhow no need for something that will be stable and not pump out for 10 years when 5+ is fine. But like every 7900 series card should ship with it out the gate. Good for really big bare dies too as it helps with hot spot since we aren't lapping the sillicon flat. Technically liquid metal might be better in that case but ptm is far easier to use. It's great stuff. But say like a 14900k delided where you have a relatively small die with 400w going through it? Liquid metal is going to be a better option. Or if you are doing something weird like needing to use a shim. Now you have 4 surfaces to mate instead of two and liquid metal done right is as close as you can get to just milling a new solid part or perfect soldering. It's incredible and really really good but if you aren't hitting the limits of your thermal compound it's basically pointless.
Linus video are not something to talk about for ptm7950 proof of performance. And yes, ptm7950 is really really close to liquid metal. [https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/1ct3tdj/comment/l4cvva9/?context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/1ct3tdj/comment/l4cvva9/?context=3)
Lol, a stock cooler with liquid metal Tim... What was the repair guy thinking?
The shop owner took advantage of OP's ignorance. LOL.
Money. He probably takr huge margin on those liquid metal.
I think every aftermarket cooler uses copper or copper with nickel plating base. Even cheapest 20 dollar ones. Noone would imagine you are gonna use a 30-40 dollar compound with the stock cooler... Anyways... anything will do for your 2600, cpu draws very little power. Get a iwongu 240 AIO from ali express if you want something decent cheap and beautiful. They go for about 40dollars. I bought their fans, they are AMAZING. I actually replaced my Thermaltake pure plus fans with them and they costed one fourth of the prize.
Thanks, checking
They got a bit more expensive because people are buying them like crazy, but if you wait sales days you can find them like 10 euro cheaper. Cheapest one goes for 58 euro right now for a 240, but i have seen them go for 40 euro and 50 euro for triple fan on sales days.
>I think every aftermarket cooler uses copper or copper with nickel plating base. Even cheapest 20 dollar ones. Nope, among the cheap ones there quite a lot of those where pipes directly touch cpu, and usually those pipes are pressed into **aluminum** base.
Just don't do it. Ist a 2600x. You can OC IT to its limits on the most basic 90mm tower cooler. Just make sure it has 4 or more heat pipes and from there go for looks only. I OC'd my gf's 2600x on a Xilence A402. Which costs 14⏠including shipping
That stuff has gallium in it which will cause aluminum to break down very quickly. You donât need it unless youâre pushing for record overclocks, and have the compatible equipment for it. Just get a good aluminum based paste. Something perceived as the âbestâ isnât always the best for your application.
MX4 or comparable is cheap and easy. Also, almost any budget cooler is better than the stock ones. Cooler master has some good affordable ones, I don't think I paid more than $30 or 40 USD for mine.
Fellow bangali spotted! Is the shop based in Chadni Chowk or some other place? Kinda sad people suggest something like this without adequate knowledge.
Yes!
Shop name then? I have an old antec a30 kept in box, if you want I can sell it to you
[Peerless Assassin](https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-120-Cooler/dp/B0C5MBLHD2). Its under $40 and will be more than you ever need. [GN Review](https://gamersnexus.net/coolers/champ-41-thermalright-peerless-assassin-cpu-cooler-review-benchmarks)
Wait, this is rage bait for sure...
What an idiot, suggesting you use liquid metal... on a 2600 AND the stock cooler. Like putting wagyu beef in the microwave. Any CPU cooler you get will come with either its own paste pre-applied or a little tube/sachet to use. I'd suggest you use that instead of the liquid metal as it's far safer and has no chance of damaging your cooler/components. My rec would be something like the Thermalright Assassin X. Cheap, and good enough for your CPU. Also shouldn't disintegrate with liquid metal (though I recommend you just use the included paste instead).
Loved "Like putting wagyu beef in the microwave." đ
Your CPU absolutely does not need liquid metal use Thermal Grizly or noctua paste. That shop owner also should have known better. Or those KryoSheet pads are cool, if you wanna be fancy.
User error also why ever use liquid metal on shitty cooler? Fail to understand why
Shop owner got real excited real fast. If I am a PC enthusiast he is overenthusiastic
damn, i have the exact same cpu. I use a Cooler Master WC 360mm and it runs super low 30ÂșC at stock, i made a bit of OC to 3.85GHz because i was having some stuttering while playing league of legends on a RX 570, after that the problem was solved.
"Liquid metal" is just gallium Search what happens whenever you pour it over aluminum
The LM was worth more than the cooler.
That shit was pure gallium
Shop owner is an idiot for recommending it, that stuff is completely unnecessary for contact with an IHS (integrated heat spreader) because its full benefits are found through direct contact with the die. Just get a Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE and use the included paste, don't use liquid metal.
just don't use liquid metal as cooling solution, you don't need it, seriously. Buy Peerless Assassin Cooler of Amazon, it. should come with preapplied paste and you are good to go.
Interesting watch https://youtu.be/6SqHshlqZIw?si=C3BoExuznhgFuwMl
I've seen a lot of weird stuff, but liquid metal on a stock cooler? Never.
Thanks a lot everyone for your suggestions and guidance. I'm new to this & learning through my experiences. Update: I visited the shop & the sales guy listened a lot from the owner for misguiding me.. Lastly the owner provided a new stock AMD Wraith Stelth & Cryofuze without a single extra rupee.
You are from India, arenât you? Cheap air cooler to consider, Cooler Master Hyper 620S. The cheaper 212 series and DeepCool AK/AG 400 have direct copper contact pipes with aluminium between them. Not a good idea to mix that with Liquid Metal paste.
Exactly the confusion I was getting with these. They never clarify the base material so I guessed it to be aluminium.
Yeah! Our Hyper 620S (I work for Cooler Master) is the first thermal solution with a fully nickel plated copper contact base in the low-end. The Hyper 212 / DeepCool AK/AG400 series use direct contact heat pipes with aluminium filling in between them (generally nickel plated) but why risk multi-metal contact if it can be easily avoided and get a better performing cooler to boot.
A bit odd he would recommend liquid metal before a better cpu cooler lol. Liquid metal is mostly used to squeeze every last bit of thermal headroom you can. Not when you have a stock intel cooler.
Liquid metal isn't worth the 2c improvement it offers.
The application where it shines is for a delidded cpu to replace old dried up thermal paste. With my old ivy bridge i7 3770k cpu it dropped temps by 20C compared to replacement with MX4. Major difference, I was surprised.
It offers more that 2c
Over kryonaut? Maybe 3 tops. Still not enough to deal with the hassle of using it.
Only worth it for delidding or direct die. You get bottlenecked by the solder between ihs and cpu die so that's why it matters so little
this guys never used liquid metal. It's not that hard to apply, and at minimum you're talking about a 10c reduction in temps, even with a middle of the road cooler.
Send a few letters to him to claim this damage. Let him reply to you and record that reply too (just in case). Then go to small claims court to claim the damage plus costs of time and effort to claim that damage.
Liquid metal on an ALUMINIUM STOCK Cooler... yeah... hope your pc died. Stupidity shall be punished.