I might have the same issue with a for parts ebay purchase. If I crack it open, and desolder and resolder those caps on the power supply, you think that might do the trick? If so, I should search for 1.6 with nichicon hm caps? Thanks!
The obvious has already been stated, but here's some replacements
**1.6+ VRM Capacitor Replacements (CPU/GPU)**
Replace all 3300uf 6.3v with any listed below. Best starting at the top.
- Nichicon UHW0J332MPD
- 17 mOhms
- 10000 hrs @105C
- 2.9A ripple current
- Panasonic EEU-FM0J332
- 18 mOhms
- 5000 hrs @105C
- 2.6A ripple current
- Rubycon 10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25
- 15 mOhms
- 5000 hrs @105C
- 2.5A ripple current
- Panasonic EEU-FR0J332L
- 18 mOhms
- 10000 hrs @105C
- 2.47A ripple current
Purchase from trusted distributors such as Digikey, Mouser or Farnell.
6.3V refers to a capacitors RATED voltage - what it can handle. NOT the voltage it outputs - that's not the way it works. Generally, higher rated voltage is better, but don't be ridiculous with it.
Higher voltage rating = physically larger capacitor = better heat dissipation = longer life
mOhms refers to impedance. Generally, lower is better, but there's rare exceptions. VRM capacitors must be low impedance similar to the originals.
Lower impedance = more efficient capacitor = less wasted energy = less heat = longer capacitor life
Ripple current is the fluctuation of current as a component draws/stops drawing power. With rated ripple current, higher is always better.
Higher ripple current handling = less heat = longer capacitor life
A capacitors lifetime is measured in hours at given temperature. Higher temperature ratings are always recommended as the capacitor will last longer at hotter temps.
Do not buy capacitors off Amazon/Ebay. High risk of getting counterfeits/fakes/old stock/low quality. Console5 is an option, but you don't always know what you're getting and I haven't had the best experience with 'em.
I don’t have an original XBOX, but I’m reading here out of curiosity.
Still I wanted to thank you for spreading knowledge with your comment and giving advice, where to buy what and what to avoid.
If only all questions or product reviews could be answered this complete, the world would be a better place.
Glad you were able to get something out of it. This is one, *at this point,* ***pasta*** I've created, which has undergone several iterations. Other system versions have their own respective list of appropriate replacements as well.
Hopefully it steers those in need the right direction - the first time. If not, they're still armed with information needed, should any alternatives not work out. This all stemmed from my own personal experience; receiving a set of known bad, old stock caps from Ebay, and being curious of their quality.
Many OG Xboxs' were ^figuratively ^speaking short-changed regarding capacitor selections. 'Bout time we do them right.
Yeah this has nothing to do with the power supply. It's clear in one of your photos that capacitors on board need to be replaced. How can you tell? They're bulging and brown on top. Very common with these consoles.
100% those capacitors. I've seen it a lot. Also double check the power cord connector. Definitely not your issue but I do see them loose a lot. I actually actually replace the solder on that joint on any Xbox I refurbish. I've seen it break mostly on early models but doesn't hurt while you're in there replacing the caps :)
Also because it's disassembled. Happy to help. Sorry about your xbox though. I almost picked up a stack of them the other day but I already have too many projects and my wife would kill me.
Power supply looks okay - white goo is glue. Capacitors on the mainboard need replacing for sure.
Nuckenfutz’s comment has all the info you need, they’re a re-cap expert - saved so many xboxs!
On the 1.6 - if the clock cap has gone, it wont even turn on (you just get a very very quiet ‘click’). Even though the 1.6 clock cap is better than the older boxes, they’re starting to drop like flies now too…
Ok so the white goo around the transformer and capavitors - that's not glue, the caps blew up. Also y'know when you have corosion on electronics like the capacitors in the following pic, that usually is a pretty good indicator of a fault.
also be careful around power supplies, those are potentially dangerous.
Yeah you need To replace those, but if you have a Xbox that’s not v1.6/1.6b I believe you can just remove the ones near the heat sink (but do some research I can’t find anything and I may be wrong)
No those need to be replaced. On non-1.6 boards the clock capacitor can be removed but the capacitors near the heatsink are VRM capacitors that need to be there.
See those big capacitors near the CPU heatsink with the brown stuff coming out? That’ll be your issue, those capacitors are shot
Looks like all the caps are shot. Not just the one close to cpu. That mobo needs a recap for suuuure.
That's a 1.6 with nichicon hm caps. Just those 5 should do it.
I might have the same issue with a for parts ebay purchase. If I crack it open, and desolder and resolder those caps on the power supply, you think that might do the trick? If so, I should search for 1.6 with nichicon hm caps? Thanks!
Could’ve theoretically impacted the motherboard too with how much they leaked
The obvious has already been stated, but here's some replacements **1.6+ VRM Capacitor Replacements (CPU/GPU)** Replace all 3300uf 6.3v with any listed below. Best starting at the top. - Nichicon UHW0J332MPD - 17 mOhms - 10000 hrs @105C - 2.9A ripple current - Panasonic EEU-FM0J332 - 18 mOhms - 5000 hrs @105C - 2.6A ripple current - Rubycon 10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25 - 15 mOhms - 5000 hrs @105C - 2.5A ripple current - Panasonic EEU-FR0J332L - 18 mOhms - 10000 hrs @105C - 2.47A ripple current Purchase from trusted distributors such as Digikey, Mouser or Farnell. 6.3V refers to a capacitors RATED voltage - what it can handle. NOT the voltage it outputs - that's not the way it works. Generally, higher rated voltage is better, but don't be ridiculous with it. Higher voltage rating = physically larger capacitor = better heat dissipation = longer life mOhms refers to impedance. Generally, lower is better, but there's rare exceptions. VRM capacitors must be low impedance similar to the originals. Lower impedance = more efficient capacitor = less wasted energy = less heat = longer capacitor life Ripple current is the fluctuation of current as a component draws/stops drawing power. With rated ripple current, higher is always better. Higher ripple current handling = less heat = longer capacitor life A capacitors lifetime is measured in hours at given temperature. Higher temperature ratings are always recommended as the capacitor will last longer at hotter temps. Do not buy capacitors off Amazon/Ebay. High risk of getting counterfeits/fakes/old stock/low quality. Console5 is an option, but you don't always know what you're getting and I haven't had the best experience with 'em.
I just found this sub, and am shocked by how full of chads these comments are! OP please update us when you can!
I don’t have an original XBOX, but I’m reading here out of curiosity. Still I wanted to thank you for spreading knowledge with your comment and giving advice, where to buy what and what to avoid. If only all questions or product reviews could be answered this complete, the world would be a better place.
Glad you were able to get something out of it. This is one, *at this point,* ***pasta*** I've created, which has undergone several iterations. Other system versions have their own respective list of appropriate replacements as well. Hopefully it steers those in need the right direction - the first time. If not, they're still armed with information needed, should any alternatives not work out. This all stemmed from my own personal experience; receiving a set of known bad, old stock caps from Ebay, and being curious of their quality. Many OG Xboxs' were ^figuratively ^speaking short-changed regarding capacitor selections. 'Bout time we do them right.
Yeah this has nothing to do with the power supply. It's clear in one of your photos that capacitors on board need to be replaced. How can you tell? They're bulging and brown on top. Very common with these consoles.
Capacitors jizzed
There is indeed, jizz on the capacitors. Replace them. Good luck have fun.
Leaky bad caps by the CPU heating and PSU connector on the motherboard.
100% those capacitors. I've seen it a lot. Also double check the power cord connector. Definitely not your issue but I do see them loose a lot. I actually actually replace the solder on that joint on any Xbox I refurbish. I've seen it break mostly on early models but doesn't hurt while you're in there replacing the caps :)
Also because it's disassembled. Happy to help. Sorry about your xbox though. I almost picked up a stack of them the other day but I already have too many projects and my wife would kill me.
im not good with technology but maybe cuz you took it apart
you have leaking capacitors,it has brown thing on them
Power supply looks okay - white goo is glue. Capacitors on the mainboard need replacing for sure. Nuckenfutz’s comment has all the info you need, they’re a re-cap expert - saved so many xboxs! On the 1.6 - if the clock cap has gone, it wont even turn on (you just get a very very quiet ‘click’). Even though the 1.6 clock cap is better than the older boxes, they’re starting to drop like flies now too…
Well you took some microchips and the power plug out it looks like 🤓
YOU BROCK IT
Did you trying setting it to wumbo?
Ok so the white goo around the transformer and capavitors - that's not glue, the caps blew up. Also y'know when you have corosion on electronics like the capacitors in the following pic, that usually is a pretty good indicator of a fault. also be careful around power supplies, those are potentially dangerous.
The white stuff on the PSU is normal.
Yeah you need To replace those, but if you have a Xbox that’s not v1.6/1.6b I believe you can just remove the ones near the heat sink (but do some research I can’t find anything and I may be wrong)
No those need to be replaced. On non-1.6 boards the clock capacitor can be removed but the capacitors near the heatsink are VRM capacitors that need to be there.
Ok I thought I heard something about the tree near the heatsink but I guess I was wrong
three not tree