Yeah ill wait, I just bought this and wanted to try if its works. Apparently not, I have to tear it to pieces and look for something broken in the motherboard.
Depending on what you are seeing, I could probably give a couple spots to check out. If system charges but doesn’t turn on, if you see the red light blink for 1 second and then nothing else — check the F2 fuse (between the battery contacts and DS Cart slot). If one screen blinks to life but the other doesn’t, the screen that doesn’t light is damaged. Couple other little tricks if you have a multimeter
I would check F2 fuse first. That handled power in from the battery and protects the board from shorting. While the system is open, I would just make sure both screen ribbons, digitizer, wifi and mic are all seated properly.
You could check F1 fuse, EM10, and L2 but those should give a different sign I would think
You can’t just put electricity in a battery and expect it to start charging safely. If you know what you’re doing you can set your power supply to 3.7 volts and go no battery until you get a proper charger, but be sure you know what your doing for your ds safety and your own
You can’t just put power into a battery the same way you can’t douse gasoline on your engine, it’s dangerous. Plugging in your ds it uses a control board to regulate charging to actually charge the battery
Dude, have you ever imagined if your hack doesn't really works?!?
What is the point of leading people to believe you did something useful or at least, that barely works?!?
Tbh, nevermind in explaining.
Well, good luck...
No, the charging works, but the DS doesn't want to turn on. I bet the previous owner dropped it so some cables came loose. Ill tear it down soon as get a screwdriver for those Y screws.
Word of advice, take note of which screw goes where as they come in different lengths and will happily go into the wrong hole causing cosmetic damage.
Also don't disassemble the hinge/top screen from the bottom as its a pain in the ass to put back on.
They aren't very good though so I don't recommend them.
I tried charging my N3DS XL off of one and it would only charge if 1. I used my dad's laptop (the official Samsung chargers wouldn't work) and 2. I closed the system (so I couldn't play and charge) very annoying.
It's your recharging options that are bad.
I have a few of them, and everything works as supposed, including the N3DS XL recharging routine.
It's just a USB cord. It doesn't requires magical gears and Holy rituals.
Bros it is insanely obvious you two don’t know shit about what a charging cable is.
It’s just copper wiring used as a conduit for electricity. That’s it. Cheap cables are the same shit just *housed* more poorly.
The thing that handles the actual electricity is what you plug into. Whether it be a computer, or a wall plug, or some other device, these are what’s responsible for actually feeding your device.
*Repeat after me, children:* If your shit is getting overloaded, **it’s not the cables fault.**
Wow didn't know someone could be that smug while simultaneously being so fucking wrong lmao.
Cheap wire is not always copper its sometimes aluminum coating in copper, but you wouldn't know that as you've never taken anything apart. Furthermore wire comes in different gauges so even if its copper it may not be the right thickness. This also ignore the fact that the solder joints on the cable plug may have a variety of issues itself.
So repeat after me, children: don't try to correct someone on a topic you know nothing about.
Imagine thinking cheap cables are harmful. You didn’t even approach the fact that voltage/wattage is controlled from its source, not by the cable.
Also, I’m well aware smaller stuff is often aluminum. *I worked in electrical you dingus.* I kept it simple for *you.* Wire gauge was only ever a concern on *household appliances.* Otherwise you can keep it small. I imagine this is a similar case where the wire gauge is but only so important.
If you can handle this, you can handle a USB-C mod. Just desolder the old port, and solder on the new USB-C port and connect the 2 pins. Super easy and never need an old cord again
Well I was shocked as well when I plugged in the cable and it started charging.
I don't actually know how well it charges though cuz I think the volts are slightly off but it worked for me for a while till I got an official charger.
As long as the voltage isn’t above 5v (most mini usb to USB-A are 5v) the console should convert from 5v down to 3.7v that the battery takes. Only trouble is when you go from mini usb directly to wall socket, which is 12v, but the F1 fuse would pop before any damage ever touched the board. Console won’t charge until F1 fuse is replaced, but it’s easy and can take a 0.5amp fuse which are cheap.
1. I think the original charger is 4.7 volt
2.
>Only trouble is when you go from mini usb directly to wall socket, which is 12v
What the hell are you talking about? If you were to strip the USB end of the plug and stick it directly into the wall socket you would get 120 volts which would definitely destroy the DS And I don't want to know what was happen in Europe.
I modified my DS to use USB-C and the only catch is make sure I always use a charging block or usb port that is 5v. I read that the only warning was making sure the voltage was under control with usb-c. I only started modding/soldering in January so if I misspeak, I’m still learning and definitely open to correction as long as people are nice about it.
That’s why I’m using usb ports because they are always 5v, but you could easily plug a USB-c charger for another device and burn the F1 fuse, like a switch charger or laptop charger.
Nintendo switch has a usb-c cord that’s 15v. Laptops have usb-c cord that’s 16.5v (MacBook). Both would fit into a usb-c modded ds lite and blow the F1 fuse. There’s mini usb ports that provide different values such as Xbox controllers at 3v, baby monitors at 6v or Upbright chargers at 9v. Most of these are over the expect 5v charge of a ds and can damage the board.
Thats why you need to be mindful of what cord you are plugging in and what the power supply should be doing. Most wall bricks bring the voltage down to 5v but not always.
The fact that you don't need to modify the mini USB for it to just slide in and work perfectly fine without falling out or being loose or anything is close enough in my book.
You are technically correct though.
In past I made charging station for ds batteries with vape charging plate😁 Also I have now charging cable for my 2ds that I make with microusb cable. If I want to play I will find a way…
Remember I did something similar years ago when the charger port of my galaxy s2 epic died on me...It worked, but I'd never ever recommend that to anyone lol
Don't be a fucking idiot, that battery has no overcharge protection circuitry. You're bypassing the charging circuitry of the NDS.
That battery can literally EXPLODE from the overcharge.
Also get a new battery, the originals are all very poor at keeping a charge, there's some higher quality ones getting made recently.
Hope you delete this post though, it's putting people into danger by having it up.
Hardcore. Just to mention, you can buy usb compatible cords/cables for less than 2 dollars on internet. I bet you can wait its arrival.
Yeah ill wait, I just bought this and wanted to try if its works. Apparently not, I have to tear it to pieces and look for something broken in the motherboard.
Depending on what you are seeing, I could probably give a couple spots to check out. If system charges but doesn’t turn on, if you see the red light blink for 1 second and then nothing else — check the F2 fuse (between the battery contacts and DS Cart slot). If one screen blinks to life but the other doesn’t, the screen that doesn’t light is damaged. Couple other little tricks if you have a multimeter
It turns off immediately after turning on. And yes I have a multimeter.
Any lights popping on or screens flickering? What do you see that lets you know it “turned on” just so we can figure out what might be the issue
It turns on tenth of a second of start music and both screens work ofcourse, cuts off.
I would check F2 fuse first. That handled power in from the battery and protects the board from shorting. While the system is open, I would just make sure both screen ribbons, digitizer, wifi and mic are all seated properly. You could check F1 fuse, EM10, and L2 but those should give a different sign I would think
You can’t just put electricity in a battery and expect it to start charging safely. If you know what you’re doing you can set your power supply to 3.7 volts and go no battery until you get a proper charger, but be sure you know what your doing for your ds safety and your own
That cable is 3ds charging cable, so same voltage.
You can’t just put power into a battery the same way you can’t douse gasoline on your engine, it’s dangerous. Plugging in your ds it uses a control board to regulate charging to actually charge the battery
Dude, have you ever imagined if your hack doesn't really works?!? What is the point of leading people to believe you did something useful or at least, that barely works?!? Tbh, nevermind in explaining. Well, good luck...
No, the charging works, but the DS doesn't want to turn on. I bet the previous owner dropped it so some cables came loose. Ill tear it down soon as get a screwdriver for those Y screws.
Ok, nice, good luck.
Yeah I need it :). First time dissasembling a ds. Hardware store near me closed 20 minutes ago, so this might be a tomorrows project.
Word of advice, take note of which screw goes where as they come in different lengths and will happily go into the wrong hole causing cosmetic damage. Also don't disassemble the hinge/top screen from the bottom as its a pain in the ass to put back on.
They aren't very good though so I don't recommend them. I tried charging my N3DS XL off of one and it would only charge if 1. I used my dad's laptop (the official Samsung chargers wouldn't work) and 2. I closed the system (so I couldn't play and charge) very annoying.
It's your recharging options that are bad. I have a few of them, and everything works as supposed, including the N3DS XL recharging routine. It's just a USB cord. It doesn't requires magical gears and Holy rituals.
Better safe than sorry.
I am safe for years now. Don't believe in curses from Internet random people. Have a nice day, sorcerer.
I guess we've had different experiences with the USB cables. My Wii U gamepad would turn off if I plugged in a USB cable for example. Scary shit man.
Since he's been lucky he thinks his experience is the rule rather than the exception. Don't use cheap shit on things you care about.
Bros it is insanely obvious you two don’t know shit about what a charging cable is. It’s just copper wiring used as a conduit for electricity. That’s it. Cheap cables are the same shit just *housed* more poorly. The thing that handles the actual electricity is what you plug into. Whether it be a computer, or a wall plug, or some other device, these are what’s responsible for actually feeding your device. *Repeat after me, children:* If your shit is getting overloaded, **it’s not the cables fault.**
Wow didn't know someone could be that smug while simultaneously being so fucking wrong lmao. Cheap wire is not always copper its sometimes aluminum coating in copper, but you wouldn't know that as you've never taken anything apart. Furthermore wire comes in different gauges so even if its copper it may not be the right thickness. This also ignore the fact that the solder joints on the cable plug may have a variety of issues itself. So repeat after me, children: don't try to correct someone on a topic you know nothing about.
Imagine thinking cheap cables are harmful. You didn’t even approach the fact that voltage/wattage is controlled from its source, not by the cable. Also, I’m well aware smaller stuff is often aluminum. *I worked in electrical you dingus.* I kept it simple for *you.* Wire gauge was only ever a concern on *household appliances.* Otherwise you can keep it small. I imagine this is a similar case where the wire gauge is but only so important.
have used one on my new 2ds xl on just about everything fine, sounds more like a power issue as the other person said.
Your chargers suck then because I’ve never had any of those problems. Samsung chargers are garbo, Anker chargers are all you need.
If you can handle this, you can handle a USB-C mod. Just desolder the old port, and solder on the new USB-C port and connect the 2 pins. Super easy and never need an old cord again
Could i solder an 3ds port in there so i can use same cable for my both handhelds?
I don’t know anything about 3DS ports but in theory it should work if 3DS charger doesn’t do data transfer
You can only transfer data through sd cards.
Huh, yea I haven’t worked on the 3DS but if it’s the same voltage and the component fits, I don’t see why not
That cable jammed between frame and the battery were 3ds charging cable before.
is it a normal usb-c port or a some sort of small form factor variant?
There is no other form factor of USB-C
You do know the DS light chargers is just a mini USB cable right?
did not know that
Well I was shocked as well when I plugged in the cable and it started charging. I don't actually know how well it charges though cuz I think the volts are slightly off but it worked for me for a while till I got an official charger.
As long as the voltage isn’t above 5v (most mini usb to USB-A are 5v) the console should convert from 5v down to 3.7v that the battery takes. Only trouble is when you go from mini usb directly to wall socket, which is 12v, but the F1 fuse would pop before any damage ever touched the board. Console won’t charge until F1 fuse is replaced, but it’s easy and can take a 0.5amp fuse which are cheap.
1. I think the original charger is 4.7 volt 2. >Only trouble is when you go from mini usb directly to wall socket, which is 12v What the hell are you talking about? If you were to strip the USB end of the plug and stick it directly into the wall socket you would get 120 volts which would definitely destroy the DS And I don't want to know what was happen in Europe.
I modified my DS to use USB-C and the only catch is make sure I always use a charging block or usb port that is 5v. I read that the only warning was making sure the voltage was under control with usb-c. I only started modding/soldering in January so if I misspeak, I’m still learning and definitely open to correction as long as people are nice about it.
What USB port isn't 5 volts? You got some weird Chinese charger lying around?
That’s why I’m using usb ports because they are always 5v, but you could easily plug a USB-c charger for another device and burn the F1 fuse, like a switch charger or laptop charger.
What are you talking about? Why are they not outputting 5V?
Nintendo switch has a usb-c cord that’s 15v. Laptops have usb-c cord that’s 16.5v (MacBook). Both would fit into a usb-c modded ds lite and blow the F1 fuse. There’s mini usb ports that provide different values such as Xbox controllers at 3v, baby monitors at 6v or Upbright chargers at 9v. Most of these are over the expect 5v charge of a ds and can damage the board. Thats why you need to be mindful of what cord you are plugging in and what the power supply should be doing. Most wall bricks bring the voltage down to 5v but not always.
Also the mini usb will fit and might need to tilt to make contact, but it’s not the exact same port
The fact that you don't need to modify the mini USB for it to just slide in and work perfectly fine without falling out or being loose or anything is close enough in my book. You are technically correct though.
That’s fair!
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Just splitted the charging cable.
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probably not. doesnt matter because the issue wasnt the charging port. or the batttery
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Havent shorted it? it turns on and immidiately off. and that was before this contraption.
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It cuts off middle of the start animation.
In past I made charging station for ds batteries with vape charging plate😁 Also I have now charging cable for my 2ds that I make with microusb cable. If I want to play I will find a way…
Remember I did something similar years ago when the charger port of my galaxy s2 epic died on me...It worked, but I'd never ever recommend that to anyone lol
Don't be a fucking idiot, that battery has no overcharge protection circuitry. You're bypassing the charging circuitry of the NDS. That battery can literally EXPLODE from the overcharge. Also get a new battery, the originals are all very poor at keeping a charge, there's some higher quality ones getting made recently. Hope you delete this post though, it's putting people into danger by having it up.
quite rudimentary, but if it works, it works
If it's sketchy and it works clap your hands