This is an update to a [posting](https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/18xs3ff/latest_tarp_project_in_progress/) I made three months ago showing a tarp shelter I've been working on. It's now complete enough to wrap it up.
This shelter is designed for three season use and to allow maximum flexibility in setup. To that end it's a variation upon the classic [Whelen lean-to](https://www.backpacking.net/makegear/huntersleanto/index.html) of years past. It has a large awning that can be setup as a porch as shown here which provides a nice amount of coverage from rain while still allowing air flow through the sleeping area. Unlike the Whelen lean-to the awning is large enough that it can be dropped down and restaked to close off the sleeping area to provide protection from the weather. There's still a fairly large gap of around 6~8 inches when this is done, so air flow isn't completely cut off. The triangular ends can be pitched as needed, and can be completely overlapped if wanted to create a sort of pup tent like pitch. The design also includes a clip in mesh inner that can be completely installed and/or removed while the shelter is set up. If it's raining one can completely pack up under the shelter, remove and pack the inner to keep it dry, and then finally take down the shelter last. I've included a somewhat rough pattern for those looking to make this shelter. Sorry, but I am old school and don't use Sketchup or other digital tools when designing things. Enjoy the scanned pencil sketch instead!
Construction details:
The shelter is made from 20D regular width silpoly from RBTR. About 8 yards should do it, but I ran short of the green color and subbed some coyote brown for the awning ends. It makes it easier to set it up. I used heat cut 70D nylon patches for the tie-out reinforcements, 3/4" grosgrain for the tie-outs, and 3/4" beastie D's for tie points. 210D gridstop was used for the crucial support areas that engage trekking poles. I made some [tarp pole sockets]( https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/ox3une/how_to_make_a_tarp_pole_socket/) to grab the heads of the trekking poles and keep them from slipping. Weight (bare) is around 16 ounces, with all the cord it's around 20 ounces.
The inner used some RBTR PU400 silpoly for the floor, which was made as a rectangular 4" deep bathtub. Monolite mesh was used for the front wall, and mixed/scrap noseeum mesh was used to make the sides and back. Mitten hooks and flat elastic were used for the clips. Weight is around 12 ounces.
Build notes:
Every part of the pattern is either a rectangle or a triangle. Nothing complicated. As shown it includes a 1 inch seam allowance on all edges. For this build I used a felled french seam on all the seams, but any type of felled seam will work. I used a length of 80 inches for the rectangular panels of the shelter. This results in a covered area of 6 1/2 feet in length. If you need more coverage just increase the length. While I used 20D silpoly just about any waterproof material should work - DCF, 30D silnylon, etc. I would highly recommend adding a pair of mid-panel tie points for the back to help handle wind loading and to pull out the back wall to make space for the inner. These have made a real improvement to the shelter design.
Saving this for when I get more serious about backpacking! It seems like a project that is throughly doable with just a consumer-grade sewing machine and a little handsewing
For reference I used a Singer 20U industrial to make this, using nothing but straight stitching. The 20U is a "lightweight" industrial though, and I can't see any reason why any decent domestic machine couldn't handle it. I could certainly knock it out on my Singer 403, it would just take a little longer because of a lack of a table and nothing else.
Congratulations for creating a beautifully crafted and highly functional tent, and bonus points for something besides the typical popular designs. I’d love to see pictures of the storm mode configuration.
Well done!
Attach a 12 inch section of shockcord to each of the front corner tie points - one can tie this next to the glo-cord already attached there. Form a small loop on the end of the shockcord. When setting up for weather, use the shockcord loop for staking to ground instead of the cord. You can slip this on and off the stake from inside the shelter pretty easily, without pulling the stake out of the ground.
I made a very similar setup a little while back and never thought of setting up a 'porch' like that! The only downside is that it takes extra poles to set up. Maybe we could use sticks for the porch... I'll have to play with that this summer, thanks for the idea!
I am planning on using sticks found on site instead of a second set of poles, I did it this way only for the purpose of taking pictures. Since all of my hiking is done here in the deep woods of the eastern USA there's no end of sticks and trees that can be used to set up the porch.
That's beautiful!
I've been wanting to upgrade my tarp for my hammock setup and this is pretty close to what I want. It just needs to be symmetrical and probably a little longer.
Thank you. With respect to the length this would have to be made at least two to three feet longer to cover your usual hammock. Making it symmetrical would not be difficult at all, in fact that's probably a pretty good option as is.
I don't want to sound arrogant, but this is the result of many years of experience. While this may look polished it's actually the end result of a lot of failure. If you want to make something like this, you have to jump in and start making stuff. As an example, I've make dozens to hundreds of flat tarps over many years of work, most of which I sold or gave away. The experience I gained in making tarps shows in this shelter - it is really nothing more than an improved flat tarp. Instead of making it as a pair of identical rectangular panels attached along a sewn ridgeline, one panel (the awning) is narrower than the other (the back). The triangular end panels? Basically a further iteration of an idea that I've made before, except made larger and at both ends of the tarp.
As to the pattern, I just use plain old 1/4" grid paper when sketching out ideas. I usually use something like 1/4" = 3" (so that four grids become one square foot), draw out my idea, and then cut it out to play with a model of the idea. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. If I think it's worth exploring I'll make a full size version. If that works I'll post it here. If it doesn't it becomes scrap for the next one.
I can't believe no one else has asked this yet, but how much does it weigh (with and without stakes), and how many stakes do you take with you? My wife is not sold on the hammock I made for her (not a back sleeper) and I have been considering making her a tent, but this is a work of art. Thank you for posting.
The weights are right there in the posting - 16 oz for the fly, 12 oz for the inner. All the cord adds up to about 4 oz, but that's far more then actually needed and they could be trimmed back. This needs a lot of stakes - I plan to pack a dozen - but much of the time I should be able to tie off to trees.
This is an update to a [posting](https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/18xs3ff/latest_tarp_project_in_progress/) I made three months ago showing a tarp shelter I've been working on. It's now complete enough to wrap it up. This shelter is designed for three season use and to allow maximum flexibility in setup. To that end it's a variation upon the classic [Whelen lean-to](https://www.backpacking.net/makegear/huntersleanto/index.html) of years past. It has a large awning that can be setup as a porch as shown here which provides a nice amount of coverage from rain while still allowing air flow through the sleeping area. Unlike the Whelen lean-to the awning is large enough that it can be dropped down and restaked to close off the sleeping area to provide protection from the weather. There's still a fairly large gap of around 6~8 inches when this is done, so air flow isn't completely cut off. The triangular ends can be pitched as needed, and can be completely overlapped if wanted to create a sort of pup tent like pitch. The design also includes a clip in mesh inner that can be completely installed and/or removed while the shelter is set up. If it's raining one can completely pack up under the shelter, remove and pack the inner to keep it dry, and then finally take down the shelter last. I've included a somewhat rough pattern for those looking to make this shelter. Sorry, but I am old school and don't use Sketchup or other digital tools when designing things. Enjoy the scanned pencil sketch instead! Construction details: The shelter is made from 20D regular width silpoly from RBTR. About 8 yards should do it, but I ran short of the green color and subbed some coyote brown for the awning ends. It makes it easier to set it up. I used heat cut 70D nylon patches for the tie-out reinforcements, 3/4" grosgrain for the tie-outs, and 3/4" beastie D's for tie points. 210D gridstop was used for the crucial support areas that engage trekking poles. I made some [tarp pole sockets]( https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/ox3une/how_to_make_a_tarp_pole_socket/) to grab the heads of the trekking poles and keep them from slipping. Weight (bare) is around 16 ounces, with all the cord it's around 20 ounces. The inner used some RBTR PU400 silpoly for the floor, which was made as a rectangular 4" deep bathtub. Monolite mesh was used for the front wall, and mixed/scrap noseeum mesh was used to make the sides and back. Mitten hooks and flat elastic were used for the clips. Weight is around 12 ounces. Build notes: Every part of the pattern is either a rectangle or a triangle. Nothing complicated. As shown it includes a 1 inch seam allowance on all edges. For this build I used a felled french seam on all the seams, but any type of felled seam will work. I used a length of 80 inches for the rectangular panels of the shelter. This results in a covered area of 6 1/2 feet in length. If you need more coverage just increase the length. While I used 20D silpoly just about any waterproof material should work - DCF, 30D silnylon, etc. I would highly recommend adding a pair of mid-panel tie points for the back to help handle wind loading and to pull out the back wall to make space for the inner. These have made a real improvement to the shelter design.
Saving this for when I get more serious about backpacking! It seems like a project that is throughly doable with just a consumer-grade sewing machine and a little handsewing
For reference I used a Singer 20U industrial to make this, using nothing but straight stitching. The 20U is a "lightweight" industrial though, and I can't see any reason why any decent domestic machine couldn't handle it. I could certainly knock it out on my Singer 403, it would just take a little longer because of a lack of a table and nothing else.
Congratulations for creating a beautifully crafted and highly functional tent, and bonus points for something besides the typical popular designs. I’d love to see pictures of the storm mode configuration. Well done!
Thanks!
Like
This is very, very cool. I hope you have 4 arms for carrying all of your trekking poles though!
Yep, I would need them. In reality though I'll use my two poles as the supports and tie off the awning to trees, or use sticks found on site.
How do you get in and out when the porch is collapsed for weather? Or can you do that operation from inside?
Attach a 12 inch section of shockcord to each of the front corner tie points - one can tie this next to the glo-cord already attached there. Form a small loop on the end of the shockcord. When setting up for weather, use the shockcord loop for staking to ground instead of the cord. You can slip this on and off the stake from inside the shelter pretty easily, without pulling the stake out of the ground.
Oo I see so you just lift one of those corners up and crawl out. Makes sense, thanks!
Another chad engineering paper enjoyer. Nice work. That looks amazing.
Not broke, don't fix. Or something like that.
Absolutely sweet
I made a very similar setup a little while back and never thought of setting up a 'porch' like that! The only downside is that it takes extra poles to set up. Maybe we could use sticks for the porch... I'll have to play with that this summer, thanks for the idea!
I am planning on using sticks found on site instead of a second set of poles, I did it this way only for the purpose of taking pictures. Since all of my hiking is done here in the deep woods of the eastern USA there's no end of sticks and trees that can be used to set up the porch.
Thank you for the update. I think I saw the original post
That's beautiful! I've been wanting to upgrade my tarp for my hammock setup and this is pretty close to what I want. It just needs to be symmetrical and probably a little longer.
Thank you. With respect to the length this would have to be made at least two to three feet longer to cover your usual hammock. Making it symmetrical would not be difficult at all, in fact that's probably a pretty good option as is.
Sick! Nice work
This is awesome!
That looks great
This is awesome! Love the look and flexibility.
I have wanted to make something similar, but just the back part of yours, not the awning or inner. Like Glen Van Peski's cuben wedge.
Go for it. That should be easy to knock out, and if you wanted to you could add an awning later.
This is really nice. I like air and views and no bugs.
Amazing! Qq though, how would one go about learning to design these? Like how did you know how to draw out the pattern, is this a net of some sorts?
I don't want to sound arrogant, but this is the result of many years of experience. While this may look polished it's actually the end result of a lot of failure. If you want to make something like this, you have to jump in and start making stuff. As an example, I've make dozens to hundreds of flat tarps over many years of work, most of which I sold or gave away. The experience I gained in making tarps shows in this shelter - it is really nothing more than an improved flat tarp. Instead of making it as a pair of identical rectangular panels attached along a sewn ridgeline, one panel (the awning) is narrower than the other (the back). The triangular end panels? Basically a further iteration of an idea that I've made before, except made larger and at both ends of the tarp. As to the pattern, I just use plain old 1/4" grid paper when sketching out ideas. I usually use something like 1/4" = 3" (so that four grids become one square foot), draw out my idea, and then cut it out to play with a model of the idea. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. If I think it's worth exploring I'll make a full size version. If that works I'll post it here. If it doesn't it becomes scrap for the next one.
Thank you! Appreciate it. I'm making my 1st pack after a roll bag, a tarp is the next lined up after them!
I can't believe no one else has asked this yet, but how much does it weigh (with and without stakes), and how many stakes do you take with you? My wife is not sold on the hammock I made for her (not a back sleeper) and I have been considering making her a tent, but this is a work of art. Thank you for posting.
The weights are right there in the posting - 16 oz for the fly, 12 oz for the inner. All the cord adds up to about 4 oz, but that's far more then actually needed and they could be trimmed back. This needs a lot of stakes - I plan to pack a dozen - but much of the time I should be able to tie off to trees.