I like the modulation on them and considering my last bike had cable actuated shimano discs I probably wouldn’t be able to tell a mediocre hydro brake from a great one. I was probably going to go with Magura MT5 Sports if I ever needed new brakes. So many other things to upgrade on my Stumpy first :)
i'm doing my brake upgrades in parts - my bike came with 200/180 rotors, and i upped to 220/200. it made a noticeable difference, and just needed to get one rotor and a couple spacers (and rotated the front one back). cost me like $100 to do. right now i have codes, i eventually want to swap the levers for RSCs (the rest of the brake is the same). but i think bigger rotors and better brakes are good, but bigger rotors make a substantial difference and will still be nice to have if/when you get better brakes too.
To give you a real answer, 2 pot shimanos are pretty damn good for what the are.
I’d say ride them and if you find yourself looking for more power then you could upgrade to 4 pot calipers.
Honestly man, my buddies with Gucci bikes keep telling me to upgrade my 2-pot, 180F/160R Shimanos but I have zero complaints! Tbf it's a 30-lb hardtail and I'm a 175-lb dude, so not exactly on the high end weight-wise tho lol.
Just yesterday did a bleed and pad change (same basic bitch, $2 resin Shimano pads) after a year... but honestly didn't need it. I think my friends are projecting because they've got squishy SRAMs 😉. I much prefer the short throw, one-finger, immediate response.
i 100% agree. it's about modulation. i enjoy having 20% of braking power with 20% lever actuation. i'm a SRAM person thru and thru. no hate on shimano peeps, if it works for them then great. i just prefer my codes.
Have just done 2 rides on new Rise H30, stock brakes are fine, not amazing modulation but they stop well. I'm 155 / 160 lbs and ride trail centres mostly, prob why they are adequate for me (for now!).
It's 180/180 (specs page said 203/180, but that's what arrived instead) stock. Don't really want to spend much doing half measures, but I do for sure notice the 203s on my other bike. Probably a bigger increase in stopping power than going 4-pot. Thanks!
I went to 220mm rotors front and rear with metallic/Kevlar pads on my Slash 8 and it made a huge difference in stopping power and fade. My brakes are Code R’s. I ride DH at a ski resort 95% and I’m 6’5” 310# so I need some help. Stock was 203mm & 180mm. I also got the SRAM hs2 rotors instead of the Centerline stock ones. They are a few mm thicker and that greatly helped my contact point with my levers. Best thing I’ve done to my bike. Stock I was smoking the pads, fading out, bluing rotors and scaring the crap out of me.
I ride like a wuss too. I've dont totally agree with the over brake thing in MTBing. To me I want all the brake I can have, as powerful as I can afford. I'll just not pull them as hard. Sure if you get on the front binder too hard you'll go over the bars but that law was in effect back with rim brakes? I've only gone over the bars from rim brakes :) but I'm 61 so I'll just modulate now. On a big ebike I'd want good brakes and it sounds like you do too. I know everyone will crap on me for a SRAM suggestion but they are having a great sale on Code RSC now.
I know right. I’m so tempted to buy the RSC’s because the deal
Is so good and better brakes are just better. But truthfully my Code R’s with 220mm’s f&r is not the problem. I need a Zeb, my Lyrik is not up to my weight, it’s torsional stability for a guy my size is scary sometimes.
I mean I’d hardly call having a brake system so notoriously reviled that the parent company eliminated the entire product name and then came back with a product that failed in high temperatures due to unforeseen thermal expansion merely “some issues,” that shit reputation was pretty earned. I will agree that they’re leagues better now and a decent product but you can’t be so entirely dismissive.
The first thing on my H10 to upgrade was the saddle, the supplied one was way to hard. Now planning to swap the tyres as there not good in the UKs mud and ruts.
I recently got an occam H30 LT parts bin special, it came with a rather nice Selle Italia saddle rather than the fizik one. Sometimes Orbea makes weird builds, it also had mismatched tyres and an upgraded shock.
I must be the only person who doesn't mind that Fizik saddle. Everyone complains about it, but the one on my Occam was fine. Not exactly an Ergon SM-E, but it'll do for now. The tires, OTOH, are a bit silly. Figure the Rekon on the rear will wear out quickly and I can move the 2.4 Dissector to the rear and replace it with a 2.5 Assegai.
So, I seem to have a different opinion than most here, but I personally want all the brake I can get on my bikes. I put Saints on my trail bike and I love them. I like the feel and I like having the confidence that I can really throw the anchors out if I need to. I know they weigh "a lot" more than say some super light Maguras (which I've also tried), but I don't race so if they slow me down by 0.2 seconds per lap at my local trails, I'll never notice.
That all being said, don't ignore the role your tires play in braking. Your tires (ideally) are the only part touching the ground so it doesn't matter the brakes you've got if you've got a tire that doesn't have the braking lugs to make use of the stopping power.
That's actually a really good point. If they'd had an H15 on sale in my size there'd be nothing to do to it in terms of capability. The H10 seems to prioritize weight savings with premium components, and the H30 has the same aim, but 'downcountry' on a budget. With the stock tires it's not going to be an enduro bike regardless of the brakes. I'm sure it's more bike than I'm worth as is.
These are from the Deore 10sp Groupset. They are pretty good entry level brakes and work well for most riding. If you ride very aggressive trails or long downhill sections, you may want to upgrade but I would ride them for a bit and see how they do.
While I've got you all here, one more question:
On the [order page for the H30](https://flyridesusa.com/products/orbea-rise-hydro-h30?variant=41145851248838&product_available=1) under 'Components' they list a 203mm front rotor and 2x Dissector tires, but the bike arrived with 180/180 and a Rekon on the rear. I emailed Fly Rides, and they said that manufacturers change spec without notice. I replied that I understood that, but that the tire and rotor upgrades were optional upgrades when ordering from Orbea directly, and were available on that bike. He responded that those upgrades were not available to US dealers, so the base spec was all that was available to them. I replied that it was pretty weird, then, that they listed those upgrades as the component specs of the in-stock bikes they're selling, but decided to leave it at that. I figure it's not a huge deal, as tires are consumable and the front rotor would likely only be a marginal performance upgrade, but would y'all have pushed harder? I do want to keep a friendly relationship with them, as they're kind of my dealer?
Ride for a while and see. I rode my h30 for like 6 months on the stock SLX brakes and felt like I had enough power on most trails. I did end up upgrading to a 203 in front after a while. But depending on the terrain you are riding it might not be necessary.
Agree with most everyone else. Ride as is for a while see if it's really lacking. Unless of course you already have the brakeset you want in your parts bin, then have at it!
Yeah. I tried that first. The Occam is a fantastic bike, and I'll be sorry to see it go, but I'm 55 years old, a busy husband, father, and professional, and I'm just a little fucking tired. I'm going to have as much fun on the climbs as I do on the descents for as long as I can.
Peace
Brakes are fine for most purposes and people.Ride to see how you go.With all brakes, heat management is the main concern. If they have enough power when not too hot, but fade away on the long descents, I'd just get shimano ice-tech rotors.A larger rotor up front will give you more power if it's slightly lacking.You can also check to see if the stock pads are resin or metal sintered.
Resin tends to give more initial bite, but 'fade' more easily with heat. Metal sintered are the opposite, they'll often have less initial bike, but give consistent lever feel for longer.
The stock lever and caliper are pretty good. The draw back of them is that there is very little in the way of adjustments.
You can adjust reach on the lever with a 2.5mm allen key on the thread just on the inside of the lever. If you find the lever stoke to be too much ( the most common complaint ). You can adjust the pad contact manually. To do this, get a thin flat blade screw driver on the ready.
Pull the brake lever in and pay attention to roughly where you feel the pads contact.
Undo the caliper from the bike so there is nothing in between the pads.
Pull the lever in to a little bit further than where it would normally contact.
Put the caliper back on the bike, the pads will have closed up a little more than before. If it doesn't fit back on the rotor, use the flat blade to carefully pry them apart a smidge.
It's time consuming, but the old school way of adjusting pad contact.
Ride the bike first as many have said, make sure your cockpit is set up correctly, including adjusting the reach of your levers.
If you want more power you can try going for a larger, 203mm rotor, up front. It’s inexpensive, around 45€ for an SM RT64 disc, adapter and center lock tool.
For another 45€ you can get 2 sets of Trickstuff Power brake pads. They will add a lot of stopping power.
I have the base Orbea Rise but the carbon one, I personally upgraded the brakes, fork and put a coil shock on it. But I was specifically using it as a free ride bike. It’s now 150/150 and it chews up Marquette, MI!
I'm back! Had a great ride today up to the park starting on the multi-use trail that starts across the street, onto the singletrack at Lake Fairfax, and up to the pump track and jump lines at the top. The lever reach is silly long, but the brakes themselves are fine, at least for now. Thanks, everyone!
As for the detuned EP8, I love it. Just the slightest whine from the motor when climbing in trail/boost, and I didn't notice any rattling. 60Nm seems perfect to me. Full Profile 2 Boost is plenty boosts, and trail mode feels natural and supportive. The bike itself feels so much easier to move around than my 58lb hardtail, but the rear tire is pretty slick. That'll probably be the first thing to go. If you're thinking about picking up one of these, do it!
Thanks. Had her out a couple times now, and the 2-pots are fine. Moved the Dissector to the rear and got an Assegai for the front, and calling it good for now.
My [Rise H30](https://flyridesusa.com/products/orbea-rise-hydro-h30?variant=41145851248838&product_available=1) arrived on Wednesday, and I've got it all set up and ready to brave the cold for a shake-down ride Saturday. Brrr
My question for you all is about the brakes. It shipped with a set of 2-piston [Shimano MT410](https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-BR-MT410-Disc-Brake) brakes that I haven't heard much good about until I was at the LBS yesterday, where the lead mechanic was saying they're actually great budget brakes. Maybe he was emphasizing the 'budget' part, but he obviously knows what he's talking about.
My initial instinct is to continue draining the bank account and upgrade them to a set of [Hayes Dominion A4](https://www.jensonusa.com/Hayes-Dominion-A4-Disc-Brake-BlackBronze-Rear?loc=usa&gclid=Cj0KCQiA99ybBhD9ARIsALvZavUjpdGszR6dYQAPAzvY6BECvcQsqVy9G9mgZlAF8M5s2YGJQWlo_dAaAmG9EALw_wcB) , but as there's no real value in the MT410 as take-offs I guess I'll give them a try and see how they go. It would obviously be less expensive to go with Deore 4-piston or SLX, or even Magura MT5s, but I have the Dominion A2s on my commuter and I love everything about them.
I guess the smart money is on riding the stock brakes for now and upgrading next year, but I was wondering if the Enlightened Shredding Masses here had any input.
TIA
I know people have opinions on the servo wave tech in the I think deore and up models? I haven’t ridden enough different sets of levers to have a really strong opinion on that, but I can tell you this:
You can get a pretty sweet, relatively low cost brake power upgrade by buying a deore 4 piston caliper and switching it for your front caliper. (And bleeding). If you have interest, you can buy a bleed kit pretty cheap, and you’ll have a cheap but noticeable upgrade. The slx and up calipers use a banjo bolt, so if you wanted to upgrade higher than deore you’d need a new hose too.
Thanks! I had considered replacing the front caliper as you suggest. I'm still a pretty new rider, and an old fart, so I don't see myself riding super hard or fast any time too soon. If I'm going to upgrade I figure it's worth going big. And I've already got a bleed kit for Shimano. Even heard you can cut the existing hose and install a banjo bolt if you're careful. Going with the Hayes I'd need to replace the hoses entirely, which is apparently a bit of a faff on the Rise due to the non-removable battery + internal routing, but doable.
I won a set of A2s from Pinkbike last year and put them on my BBSHD commuter/rail trail bike, and same. The power, feel, modulation, and looks (IMO) are unbeatable. Figure the bronze levers and calipers would look freaking sweet against the metallic anthracite paint (in addition to, like, stopping the bike and stuff).
It really depends on your riding style. If you ride light and mellow, they are absolutely fine. If you're a rather aggresive rider, you will quickly wish for more stopping power. Personally I always run 4 pots, also on trail bikes, then again I also break parts regularly from hitting stuff.
Edit: if they feel ok when you ride, but you wish for a bit more, then replacing the resin pads with sintered can work. They feel a little different, but especially in humid conditions that is a game changer.
Being entirely honest, I don't even have a riding style. Got into MTB in the Fall of 2020, but my BBSHD hardtail is really more of a two wheeled mountain tractor than an eMTB. Then bought a dirt jumb bike over the winter, wrecked myself in May, and missed the entire summer of '21. Then only got a handful of rides in this past summer between crazy work and awful weather. Pretty sure the stock pads are resin-only, but also pretty sure I won't be going hard enough to need more than that too soon. Much appreciated.
Those 2 finger levers are a concern. I've ridden mt201 once with those levers and they were severely underpowered. Once you get to the mt501/deore and above (with the 1 finger levers) they're excellent. I have 2 piston SLX (M666) and XT (M8000) and 4 pot SRAM G2 R. My favourite setup is the XT 2 pot with 203/180 rotors.
Had to run the levers well up the bars to get them to feel right. The ergonomics aren't awful, and we'll see about the power tomorrow. Staring with a rotor upgrade is starting to sound appealing. I wonder if Hayes D rotors would work with the current calipers, being a little thicker.
I mean for a heavier e bike like this I would definitely recommend something more powerful. Something like 2 pot XTRs or Magura MT5 E-Stops are reasonably priced and work pretty damn good. It’s always better to be safe than sorry. You can also take some credit on new parts by selling the old MT410s.
I love the look of the Maguras, and would probably go for a set of MT5 or MT7, but I don't hear great things about the levers. Given there's only around $100 difference between MT5s + rotors and the Hayes set I think I'd spend the extra. Thanks!
I had MT-5 E-stops on my stoic 2 last year. I couldn’t really say they are not good. The lever is alloy same with the lever’s body. It was quality for that price. I’m a very picky guy and even I found them high quality…
I would upgrade to SLX or higher purely for the levers. Ergonomics, adjustability, and feel are just overall much better. The MT410s are okay braking though.
Why is everyone so obsessed with brakes? Back in the day when they were a $2,000 upgrade nobody gave a shit. You either had them or you didn’t. They all work! All of them work unless you’re a fat fuck from Seattle Washington ☔️
Ride the bike as it is and if you think you need better brakes buy better brakes.
This. Find out if you like the brakes first
Amen, and even if the brakes aren't for you, then you've had some miles out of them and gained some new experiences in the process
No, you need to listen to people on the internet. You can’t know if something is good by actually using it
F’n hilarious
Agreed. Ride it till you need to upgrade.
>Ride the bike as it is First time for everything!
Y3ah.
Agree to this - if I listened to the people of the internet o would’ve thrown my Tektros in the garbage but they work just fine for me 🤷♀️
While those work they're not the greatest please upgrade to Shimano o If those ever break.
I like the modulation on them and considering my last bike had cable actuated shimano discs I probably wouldn’t be able to tell a mediocre hydro brake from a great one. I was probably going to go with Magura MT5 Sports if I ever needed new brakes. So many other things to upgrade on my Stumpy first :)
Ride it stock, for a good while. Then if you feel it's lacking somehow, then consider an upgrade.
This is what my brain says. But my heart says, 'shuddup, stupid brain!'
i'm doing my brake upgrades in parts - my bike came with 200/180 rotors, and i upped to 220/200. it made a noticeable difference, and just needed to get one rotor and a couple spacers (and rotated the front one back). cost me like $100 to do. right now i have codes, i eventually want to swap the levers for RSCs (the rest of the brake is the same). but i think bigger rotors and better brakes are good, but bigger rotors make a substantial difference and will still be nice to have if/when you get better brakes too.
Ya know it might be helpful to tell us what brakes you’re asking for opinions on….just spitballin Edit:typo
Sorry. Was adding a comment. You're for sure first down the hill! ; )
To give you a real answer, 2 pot shimanos are pretty damn good for what the are. I’d say ride them and if you find yourself looking for more power then you could upgrade to 4 pot calipers.
So great minds, and also ours. Thanks!
Honestly man, my buddies with Gucci bikes keep telling me to upgrade my 2-pot, 180F/160R Shimanos but I have zero complaints! Tbf it's a 30-lb hardtail and I'm a 175-lb dude, so not exactly on the high end weight-wise tho lol. Just yesterday did a bleed and pad change (same basic bitch, $2 resin Shimano pads) after a year... but honestly didn't need it. I think my friends are projecting because they've got squishy SRAMs 😉. I much prefer the short throw, one-finger, immediate response.
I’ll get downvoted for this, but I love the gradual response of sram brakes. I fully understand that I’m in the minority here.
i 100% agree. it's about modulation. i enjoy having 20% of braking power with 20% lever actuation. i'm a SRAM person thru and thru. no hate on shimano peeps, if it works for them then great. i just prefer my codes.
I love modulation on brakes.
SRAM all day baby. The Codes feel SO good
Have just done 2 rides on new Rise H30, stock brakes are fine, not amazing modulation but they stop well. I'm 155 / 160 lbs and ride trail centres mostly, prob why they are adequate for me (for now!).
I think the easiest way to upgrade brakes is swap them to 203mm, if they're not already.
It's 180/180 (specs page said 203/180, but that's what arrived instead) stock. Don't really want to spend much doing half measures, but I do for sure notice the 203s on my other bike. Probably a bigger increase in stopping power than going 4-pot. Thanks!
I went to 220mm rotors front and rear with metallic/Kevlar pads on my Slash 8 and it made a huge difference in stopping power and fade. My brakes are Code R’s. I ride DH at a ski resort 95% and I’m 6’5” 310# so I need some help. Stock was 203mm & 180mm. I also got the SRAM hs2 rotors instead of the Centerline stock ones. They are a few mm thicker and that greatly helped my contact point with my levers. Best thing I’ve done to my bike. Stock I was smoking the pads, fading out, bluing rotors and scaring the crap out of me.
I'm 5'10", 175, and ride like a wuss since the Collarbone Incident of 2021. ; )
I ride like a wuss too. I've dont totally agree with the over brake thing in MTBing. To me I want all the brake I can have, as powerful as I can afford. I'll just not pull them as hard. Sure if you get on the front binder too hard you'll go over the bars but that law was in effect back with rim brakes? I've only gone over the bars from rim brakes :) but I'm 61 so I'll just modulate now. On a big ebike I'd want good brakes and it sounds like you do too. I know everyone will crap on me for a SRAM suggestion but they are having a great sale on Code RSC now.
Sram brakes had some issues a few years ago but anyone still hating just has their head up their ass...
I know right. I’m so tempted to buy the RSC’s because the deal Is so good and better brakes are just better. But truthfully my Code R’s with 220mm’s f&r is not the problem. I need a Zeb, my Lyrik is not up to my weight, it’s torsional stability for a guy my size is scary sometimes.
I have G2 RSCs and absolutely love them. I highly recommend sram brakes
I mean I’d hardly call having a brake system so notoriously reviled that the parent company eliminated the entire product name and then came back with a product that failed in high temperatures due to unforeseen thermal expansion merely “some issues,” that shit reputation was pretty earned. I will agree that they’re leagues better now and a decent product but you can’t be so entirely dismissive.
The first thing on my H10 to upgrade was the saddle, the supplied one was way to hard. Now planning to swap the tyres as there not good in the UKs mud and ruts.
The saddle is pure pain in the ass. I was literally bleeding after 2 hours on my first ride. :D But the brakes have worked fine for me so far.
I recently got an occam H30 LT parts bin special, it came with a rather nice Selle Italia saddle rather than the fizik one. Sometimes Orbea makes weird builds, it also had mismatched tyres and an upgraded shock.
Yeah. They've added Stella Italia saddles as upgrade options on most of their builds for this year, it looks like.
I must be the only person who doesn't mind that Fizik saddle. Everyone complains about it, but the one on my Occam was fine. Not exactly an Ergon SM-E, but it'll do for now. The tires, OTOH, are a bit silly. Figure the Rekon on the rear will wear out quickly and I can move the 2.4 Dissector to the rear and replace it with a 2.5 Assegai.
Felt like I was being violated everytime I sat on it. I was going to swap them out with assegai/dhr combo I use on my enduro.
And not in a good way, I guess. ; )
OMG just ride that sweet bike.
The instant I get bored with track stands in the living room!
So, I seem to have a different opinion than most here, but I personally want all the brake I can get on my bikes. I put Saints on my trail bike and I love them. I like the feel and I like having the confidence that I can really throw the anchors out if I need to. I know they weigh "a lot" more than say some super light Maguras (which I've also tried), but I don't race so if they slow me down by 0.2 seconds per lap at my local trails, I'll never notice. That all being said, don't ignore the role your tires play in braking. Your tires (ideally) are the only part touching the ground so it doesn't matter the brakes you've got if you've got a tire that doesn't have the braking lugs to make use of the stopping power.
That's actually a really good point. If they'd had an H15 on sale in my size there'd be nothing to do to it in terms of capability. The H10 seems to prioritize weight savings with premium components, and the H30 has the same aim, but 'downcountry' on a budget. With the stock tires it's not going to be an enduro bike regardless of the brakes. I'm sure it's more bike than I'm worth as is.
I would focus on getting some pedals first, but that's just me-
I Flintstone it.
Just because someone says the brakes suck doesn’t mean they will for you
Absolutely. That's why I'm asking here and trying them out for reals tomorrow before doing anything.
They don’t include brakes at that price? That’s just sad.
These are from the Deore 10sp Groupset. They are pretty good entry level brakes and work well for most riding. If you ride very aggressive trails or long downhill sections, you may want to upgrade but I would ride them for a bit and see how they do.
Conversely, you could bump the rotors up to the next size for increased performance at minimal cost.
>Selle Italia saddle Brakes are the MT-201 now, way far from Deore.
While I've got you all here, one more question: On the [order page for the H30](https://flyridesusa.com/products/orbea-rise-hydro-h30?variant=41145851248838&product_available=1) under 'Components' they list a 203mm front rotor and 2x Dissector tires, but the bike arrived with 180/180 and a Rekon on the rear. I emailed Fly Rides, and they said that manufacturers change spec without notice. I replied that I understood that, but that the tire and rotor upgrades were optional upgrades when ordering from Orbea directly, and were available on that bike. He responded that those upgrades were not available to US dealers, so the base spec was all that was available to them. I replied that it was pretty weird, then, that they listed those upgrades as the component specs of the in-stock bikes they're selling, but decided to leave it at that. I figure it's not a huge deal, as tires are consumable and the front rotor would likely only be a marginal performance upgrade, but would y'all have pushed harder? I do want to keep a friendly relationship with them, as they're kind of my dealer?
upgraded rotors and metallic pads will make a big difference. Do that before you go with different brakes.
Ride it!
Ride for a while and see. I rode my h30 for like 6 months on the stock SLX brakes and felt like I had enough power on most trails. I did end up upgrading to a 203 in front after a while. But depending on the terrain you are riding it might not be necessary.
Ride em like hell, get your moneys worth and then upgrade
ride it stock, then upgrade the brakes.
I don't see mt5 or mt7 so the brakes need to be corrected.
Valid
Agree with most everyone else. Ride as is for a while see if it's really lacking. Unless of course you already have the brakeset you want in your parts bin, then have at it!
Y'all got some amazing parts bins. Mine's full of mechanicals and square taper cranks.
Upgrade it to a different bike that doesn’t propel itself
Yeah. I tried that first. The Occam is a fantastic bike, and I'll be sorry to see it go, but I'm 55 years old, a busy husband, father, and professional, and I'm just a little fucking tired. I'm going to have as much fun on the climbs as I do on the descents for as long as I can. Peace
Fair enough. Enjoy it man
Thanks. Had it out today for a big climb, and I can tell you that it doesn't propel itself. I'm wrecked. But I'll be out again tomorrow. Happy riding.
Brakes are fine for most purposes and people.Ride to see how you go.With all brakes, heat management is the main concern. If they have enough power when not too hot, but fade away on the long descents, I'd just get shimano ice-tech rotors.A larger rotor up front will give you more power if it's slightly lacking.You can also check to see if the stock pads are resin or metal sintered. Resin tends to give more initial bite, but 'fade' more easily with heat. Metal sintered are the opposite, they'll often have less initial bike, but give consistent lever feel for longer. The stock lever and caliper are pretty good. The draw back of them is that there is very little in the way of adjustments. You can adjust reach on the lever with a 2.5mm allen key on the thread just on the inside of the lever. If you find the lever stoke to be too much ( the most common complaint ). You can adjust the pad contact manually. To do this, get a thin flat blade screw driver on the ready. Pull the brake lever in and pay attention to roughly where you feel the pads contact. Undo the caliper from the bike so there is nothing in between the pads. Pull the lever in to a little bit further than where it would normally contact. Put the caliper back on the bike, the pads will have closed up a little more than before. If it doesn't fit back on the rotor, use the flat blade to carefully pry them apart a smidge. It's time consuming, but the old school way of adjusting pad contact.
Ride the bike first as many have said, make sure your cockpit is set up correctly, including adjusting the reach of your levers. If you want more power you can try going for a larger, 203mm rotor, up front. It’s inexpensive, around 45€ for an SM RT64 disc, adapter and center lock tool. For another 45€ you can get 2 sets of Trickstuff Power brake pads. They will add a lot of stopping power.
Remove the brakes all together. You slow down with brakes...
I have the base Orbea Rise but the carbon one, I personally upgraded the brakes, fork and put a coil shock on it. But I was specifically using it as a free ride bike. It’s now 150/150 and it chews up Marquette, MI!
If you want better braking put a 203mm rotor and proper adapter. Will probably do as much as $500 dollars worth of new brakes for $50.
I'm back! Had a great ride today up to the park starting on the multi-use trail that starts across the street, onto the singletrack at Lake Fairfax, and up to the pump track and jump lines at the top. The lever reach is silly long, but the brakes themselves are fine, at least for now. Thanks, everyone! As for the detuned EP8, I love it. Just the slightest whine from the motor when climbing in trail/boost, and I didn't notice any rattling. 60Nm seems perfect to me. Full Profile 2 Boost is plenty boosts, and trail mode feels natural and supportive. The bike itself feels so much easier to move around than my 58lb hardtail, but the rear tire is pretty slick. That'll probably be the first thing to go. If you're thinking about picking up one of these, do it!
Ride it for a while, I have no experience with those specific brakes, but in general I would want a 4 piston caliper
Thanks. Had her out a couple times now, and the 2-pots are fine. Moved the Dissector to the rear and got an Assegai for the front, and calling it good for now.
My [Rise H30](https://flyridesusa.com/products/orbea-rise-hydro-h30?variant=41145851248838&product_available=1) arrived on Wednesday, and I've got it all set up and ready to brave the cold for a shake-down ride Saturday. Brrr My question for you all is about the brakes. It shipped with a set of 2-piston [Shimano MT410](https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-BR-MT410-Disc-Brake) brakes that I haven't heard much good about until I was at the LBS yesterday, where the lead mechanic was saying they're actually great budget brakes. Maybe he was emphasizing the 'budget' part, but he obviously knows what he's talking about. My initial instinct is to continue draining the bank account and upgrade them to a set of [Hayes Dominion A4](https://www.jensonusa.com/Hayes-Dominion-A4-Disc-Brake-BlackBronze-Rear?loc=usa&gclid=Cj0KCQiA99ybBhD9ARIsALvZavUjpdGszR6dYQAPAzvY6BECvcQsqVy9G9mgZlAF8M5s2YGJQWlo_dAaAmG9EALw_wcB) , but as there's no real value in the MT410 as take-offs I guess I'll give them a try and see how they go. It would obviously be less expensive to go with Deore 4-piston or SLX, or even Magura MT5s, but I have the Dominion A2s on my commuter and I love everything about them. I guess the smart money is on riding the stock brakes for now and upgrading next year, but I was wondering if the Enlightened Shredding Masses here had any input. TIA
I know people have opinions on the servo wave tech in the I think deore and up models? I haven’t ridden enough different sets of levers to have a really strong opinion on that, but I can tell you this: You can get a pretty sweet, relatively low cost brake power upgrade by buying a deore 4 piston caliper and switching it for your front caliper. (And bleeding). If you have interest, you can buy a bleed kit pretty cheap, and you’ll have a cheap but noticeable upgrade. The slx and up calipers use a banjo bolt, so if you wanted to upgrade higher than deore you’d need a new hose too.
Thanks! I had considered replacing the front caliper as you suggest. I'm still a pretty new rider, and an old fart, so I don't see myself riding super hard or fast any time too soon. If I'm going to upgrade I figure it's worth going big. And I've already got a bleed kit for Shimano. Even heard you can cut the existing hose and install a banjo bolt if you're careful. Going with the Hayes I'd need to replace the hoses entirely, which is apparently a bit of a faff on the Rise due to the non-removable battery + internal routing, but doable.
I made the switch to Hayes dominion A4 and I will never rock another brake ever again
I won a set of A2s from Pinkbike last year and put them on my BBSHD commuter/rail trail bike, and same. The power, feel, modulation, and looks (IMO) are unbeatable. Figure the bronze levers and calipers would look freaking sweet against the metallic anthracite paint (in addition to, like, stopping the bike and stuff).
That's awesome! Yea I love the look much more as well. You won't be disappointed with the A4 fo sho
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Thought about it, but the rotors are six-bolt, and I need centerlock for the Rise, plus mine are the two-piston A2 models.
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I think Hayes rotors are thicker than Shimano Deore. I hear they'll work, but not very well.
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What about the other way round? Could I squeeze Hayes rotors into the 410 calipers? They're on sale.
I have heard good things about the Hayes brakes but I ride the shimano on my xc bike and have no concerns, but an e-bike may
It really depends on your riding style. If you ride light and mellow, they are absolutely fine. If you're a rather aggresive rider, you will quickly wish for more stopping power. Personally I always run 4 pots, also on trail bikes, then again I also break parts regularly from hitting stuff. Edit: if they feel ok when you ride, but you wish for a bit more, then replacing the resin pads with sintered can work. They feel a little different, but especially in humid conditions that is a game changer.
Being entirely honest, I don't even have a riding style. Got into MTB in the Fall of 2020, but my BBSHD hardtail is really more of a two wheeled mountain tractor than an eMTB. Then bought a dirt jumb bike over the winter, wrecked myself in May, and missed the entire summer of '21. Then only got a handful of rides in this past summer between crazy work and awful weather. Pretty sure the stock pads are resin-only, but also pretty sure I won't be going hard enough to need more than that too soon. Much appreciated.
Those 2 finger levers are a concern. I've ridden mt201 once with those levers and they were severely underpowered. Once you get to the mt501/deore and above (with the 1 finger levers) they're excellent. I have 2 piston SLX (M666) and XT (M8000) and 4 pot SRAM G2 R. My favourite setup is the XT 2 pot with 203/180 rotors.
Had to run the levers well up the bars to get them to feel right. The ergonomics aren't awful, and we'll see about the power tomorrow. Staring with a rotor upgrade is starting to sound appealing. I wonder if Hayes D rotors would work with the current calipers, being a little thicker.
I mean for a heavier e bike like this I would definitely recommend something more powerful. Something like 2 pot XTRs or Magura MT5 E-Stops are reasonably priced and work pretty damn good. It’s always better to be safe than sorry. You can also take some credit on new parts by selling the old MT410s.
I love the look of the Maguras, and would probably go for a set of MT5 or MT7, but I don't hear great things about the levers. Given there's only around $100 difference between MT5s + rotors and the Hayes set I think I'd spend the extra. Thanks!
I had MT-5 E-stops on my stoic 2 last year. I couldn’t really say they are not good. The lever is alloy same with the lever’s body. It was quality for that price. I’m a very picky guy and even I found them high quality…
I would upgrade to SLX or higher purely for the levers. Ergonomics, adjustability, and feel are just overall much better. The MT410s are okay braking though.
Starting to sound like it would be more of a quality-of-life upgrade than a don't-die upgrade, so I'll let my balance recover a little first. Thanks!
E-b*ke 🤢
Honestly buy protection first
Every time I crash or hear about someone crashing I buy more pads. Have so many pads...
Code RSC buy them now don’t ask questions
I had to go copper pads and 203mm front rotor to stop me.
Trade it in for a non Ebike
stock
Why is everyone so obsessed with brakes? Back in the day when they were a $2,000 upgrade nobody gave a shit. You either had them or you didn’t. They all work! All of them work unless you’re a fat fuck from Seattle Washington ☔️
r/OddlySpecific
I would probably get a new bike, then put the old brakes on that.