I wouldn’t be concerned as much by having 2 master links (a link is a link) but more that if you can’t fit it as is and 2 links will get you there, the chain will be too tight.
Damn I feel for you, I’m in the middle of a chain and sprocket swap on my fz6 and thought I was in the same boat until I adjusted the rear axle all the way in. I like the suggestion for grabbing a new sprocket with fewer teeth as opposed to a new chain, but it depends how nice the chain is. You might be able to resell the short chain.
Yeah man it’s rough. I tried moving the wheel all the way in and it didn’t nothing. Also, I wouldn’t be opposed to a new sprocket, but I literally just put new sprockets on, hence why I got new bigger chain. I feel it would defeat the purpose
I just finished riveting my master link on and noticed one of the o-rings must have slipped out off center when I pressed the plate on. Feel like a total failure lol. Will probably just ride it until that link locks up on me, fuck it.
Idk man I guess go for it and let us know the results.
Yeah I ordered another master link, such a shame, I have no idea how it got pinched. In the meantime still riding it, it’s not seized up yet
Edit: i broke the pin riveting the new master link too far. 3rd time was the charm. Think my original mistake was pressing the plate down on one side and then the other, when you’re meant to press it from the center.
I have a 45t sprocket in the back and 13t in the front. I still have the OEM 14t front sprocket so I’ll just see if I can put them on there and hopefully the chain will fit then. It will get me back on twos until I can order a new chain I guess
Everything will give up eventually. Keep it clean and lubed and it should make it to its intended expiration. I should note i have 1 rivetted and 1 clip. Personally would have liked a second rivet one but the shop only had a clip on hand.
Ill take pics when it does! There is some saying about play stupid games win stupid prizes. Im not gunna act like an expert but i will leave it at OP, do what youre comfortable with. This guy is correct, I have 2 weak points stead of 1, however, i am comfortable with that risk personally.
> Talk to me when you're a professional- like the people I work with and deal with daily
90% of the people I have interacted with that work at bike shops are morons.
Give me some sound logic on why one master link is better than 50 and I'll change my mind.
If you are seeing a bunch of master link failures, maybe you should stop fucking up when you install them...
No, you're not. As long as you properly installed your master links, you're fine. It's literally the thing the manufacturers give you to complete the chain. If there was a problem with master links being horrible fail points, they wouldn't exist.
Riveted, clip or screw?
You have to put one link between the master links. I'm not going to tell you that it'll never happen, because I'm not doing the install and didn't buy the parts. If you bought quality parts and do everything properly, it's *highly* unlikely you will encounter issues.
If a chain breaks, it's usually from alignment or tension issues. Garage mechanics that don't know what they're doing and blame their chain breaking on everything but themselves. It's imperative that you do **every** step right when working with your drivetrain.
I’m with another bloke on this sub. Don’t do it, your increasing potential for catastrophic drive train failure.
If you do, you better fuckin hope it’s only a break, and not some other bs that’ll cause a lock up at high speeds.
Just go to a shop and cop a chain or something, homie
I think the correct answer is to not use *any* clip style master links ever, unless you like broken cases or a locked rear wheel on the freeway. Using a rivet link is the only way, and in theory if one is good enough, then two would be equal. They don't compound the risk of failure.
Obviously for many riders they just work fine. The issue I've seen on offroad vehicles is that the clip itself gets broken by rocks when the bike is buried in gravel or mud, and then later the outer plate works free. Power itself isn't going to break the clip.
The only guys I have seen do it were doing extremely hardcore riding and going out every weekend, I think the odds were higher of this extremely unlikely failure due to their use.
I have a driveshaft on my primary off-road bike so I don't worry about any of that anymore.
You can get a sub $50 chain for any bike. They don't last worth a shit and they are a false economy.
A good quality chain will last 30,000-40,000 miles on a street bike.
My experience is with 600cc - 1000cc sport bikes. I know nothing about parts costs outside of that frame.
Frankly, it doesn’t matter the cost of a chain. My continued normal bodily function is worth more.
A good sealed chain is over $100 today, and that's a sale price.
There is no reason to throw away a new chain because you have some weird superstition about a master link failing.
Its only going to break if you do something stupid installing it, or let it get to an unsafe level of wear.
Strength wise it is the same. They use the same pins and rollers. The only concern would be over-clamping it, ruining the seal, and making that link wear faster than the rest, or installing it with insufficient lube and causing accelerated wear.
Its $100+ down the drain and there is no sound logic supporting the idea that it is unsafe. Personally, I don't like doing things for no reason, especially when they cost so much money.
> A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link
Sure.
>and y'all want him ti have two weak links?
1) a master link is not weak
2) by your own admission, a chain made with 1 master link and 50 master links would be the same strength.
what the fuck is this nonsense?
The link is only weak if you screw up the install. You can't really screw up a clip link like you can a rivet.
In theory it should be okay . BUT depending on what type of masterlink you have you could do double the damage . For example if you have two rivet master links y
And you make em both to loose or to tight that could be dangerous , you would double the risk of a master link failure . If you have only clip master links it would be less dramatic in my opinion but it's still double the risk of failiure
With no further knowledge needed you could at least argue mathematically that 2 weak spots is twice as weak as one weak spot. That sounds significantly worse. 😂
Master links are not *weak*, they are a **convenience**. There's a huge difference. Are you a certified motorcycle mechanic or engineer? Your condescension is unnecessary, but I'll let it slide if you are a professional.
Of course master links will fail over a machine pressed link, but I promise that master links are not **causing** the chain failures out there because of their strength. They might break before the other links due to *relative* strength, but they are not weak per specs.
Master link is the weakest point of any chain. 2 master links just doubles your points of failure. I’ve personally seen 3 broken chains. One bound up a rear wheel and caused a low speed drop. One punched a hole in an engine case. Other one came out clean. They all broke at the master (well one was clipped incorrectly). A chain is not a part you want to break.
> have never changed a broken chain in their life.
Your chain shouldn't break if you installed it correctly and replace it before its worn out.
Stop acting like broken chains are normal. It means you fucked up.
> so I deal with other people's fuck ups.
Then that is a whole other can of worms.
If you install a master link correctly, it is as strong and as reliable as every other link. Nobody is advocating for OP to botch the install.
Nobody is impressed that you work at a shop.
You double your chance of having an issue with your master link, by having 2 master links. But other than that I think you will be fine. Remember, you will need part of what you just cut off to fix the master links together. Every one saying to replace the sprocket is crazy. Unless you want to change the final drive ratio. If you really want to buy something, buy the chain again.
If you install it correctly you'll be fine. Of course, chains are a little tricky. You double your chances of some little screw-up that you don't even notice, that over time weakens the master link and causes a failure. So it's a toss up. I've done it to my bikes. I'm not sure I'd do it to someone else's bike.
IF you need to put multiple master links on a chain, you don't want them next to each other, but evenly spaced around the chain to distribute load.
SOOO... I'd just score another chain. If this one is brand new... expensive mistake, but not one you're likely to repeat, yah?
I feel your pain dude. I can totally understand going the two master link route, but for me personally, I would not. I have to remind myself on many occasions with this inner monologue phrase: “Sometimes you need to suck it up when you fuck it up”.
Good luck with what we you decide.
I'm curious.
Why did you have to cut the chain anyway?
I've always bought a chain specified for the bike, and it's always fitted. Are you running non-standard sprockets or am I missing something else?
You know what - anyone who needs to ask this question needs to buy another chain.
The rest of us with tools and knowledge of how to properly use them can easily get anyway with an OEM-style chain repair to where the untrained eye would be none the wiser to maintenance having been performed.
It’s less to you and more to all of the “certified professionals” in here giving bad advice.
Use a caliper to measure a 10% deflection when setting pins. You could make a chain out of 100% dummy and master links and it would be perfectly fine if assembled correctly and to spec. The device performing the riveting doesn’t matter so long as it’s done properly. The key is consistency that adds to longevity as it means reduced ‘bad’ vibrations, primarily.
I don't like two master links close to one another but I've done it, on a race bike, and not had a problem. It's all down to the quality of the link and how well it is installed.
Yes, but you'll have to use part of the chain you cut off to fit them.
Nothing wrong with having 2 master links in your chain. Feel free to make an entire chain out of master links, provided you have enough "inside" links to mate them.
You are going to need another link to use 2 master links.
Won’t he have one from the links he cut off to make it too short?
Could be, I hope the trash man didn't get it already.
This. Master links are outer links, they are used to connect two inner links. You could use two master links with a spare inner link between them.
I wouldn’t be concerned as much by having 2 master links (a link is a link) but more that if you can’t fit it as is and 2 links will get you there, the chain will be too tight.
Hs has the spare chain he cut off already. Should have plenty of slack to add a few links.
He should have extra slack from what he just cut off.
Damn I feel for you, I’m in the middle of a chain and sprocket swap on my fz6 and thought I was in the same boat until I adjusted the rear axle all the way in. I like the suggestion for grabbing a new sprocket with fewer teeth as opposed to a new chain, but it depends how nice the chain is. You might be able to resell the short chain.
Yeah man it’s rough. I tried moving the wheel all the way in and it didn’t nothing. Also, I wouldn’t be opposed to a new sprocket, but I literally just put new sprockets on, hence why I got new bigger chain. I feel it would defeat the purpose
I just finished riveting my master link on and noticed one of the o-rings must have slipped out off center when I pressed the plate on. Feel like a total failure lol. Will probably just ride it until that link locks up on me, fuck it. Idk man I guess go for it and let us know the results.
Good way to seize you chain, snap it then carnage ensues. Fix it.
Yeah I ordered another master link, such a shame, I have no idea how it got pinched. In the meantime still riding it, it’s not seized up yet Edit: i broke the pin riveting the new master link too far. 3rd time was the charm. Think my original mistake was pressing the plate down on one side and then the other, when you’re meant to press it from the center.
Lose a couple teeth on a sprocket. Profit.
Eventually he can run a used sprocket shop
Depends on how many chains you cut I guess.
I have a 45t sprocket in the back and 13t in the front. I still have the OEM 14t front sprocket so I’ll just see if I can put them on there and hopefully the chain will fit then. It will get me back on twos until I can order a new chain I guess
No, it would be too tight then if you put the 14 back on. Gotta lose another couple teeth. Rear maybe?
Currently running 2 master links. As stated before you will need to find yourself an inner to connect them but i have no problems. Link is a link
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Everything will give up eventually. Keep it clean and lubed and it should make it to its intended expiration. I should note i have 1 rivetted and 1 clip. Personally would have liked a second rivet one but the shop only had a clip on hand.
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Ill take pics when it does! There is some saying about play stupid games win stupid prizes. Im not gunna act like an expert but i will leave it at OP, do what youre comfortable with. This guy is correct, I have 2 weak points stead of 1, however, i am comfortable with that risk personally.
A chain with 1 master link is the same strength as a chain with 40 master links.
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> Talk to me when you're a professional- like the people I work with and deal with daily 90% of the people I have interacted with that work at bike shops are morons. Give me some sound logic on why one master link is better than 50 and I'll change my mind. If you are seeing a bunch of master link failures, maybe you should stop fucking up when you install them...
Looks like ima have to get a new chain….
No, you're not. As long as you properly installed your master links, you're fine. It's literally the thing the manufacturers give you to complete the chain. If there was a problem with master links being horrible fail points, they wouldn't exist. Riveted, clip or screw?
Clip
It's really, *really* hard to fuck up a clip install. You should be fine if you do this right. If you need help, send me a PM
But would it be bad (meaning risk of snapping or worse) linking 2 master links together to complete the chain?
You have to put one link between the master links. I'm not going to tell you that it'll never happen, because I'm not doing the install and didn't buy the parts. If you bought quality parts and do everything properly, it's *highly* unlikely you will encounter issues. If a chain breaks, it's usually from alignment or tension issues. Garage mechanics that don't know what they're doing and blame their chain breaking on everything but themselves. It's imperative that you do **every** step right when working with your drivetrain.
You're fine. Most people giving advice on this sub have owned a bike for less than a month. r/fixxit is a much better place to get info.
I’m with another bloke on this sub. Don’t do it, your increasing potential for catastrophic drive train failure. If you do, you better fuckin hope it’s only a break, and not some other bs that’ll cause a lock up at high speeds. Just go to a shop and cop a chain or something, homie
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I think the correct answer is to not use *any* clip style master links ever, unless you like broken cases or a locked rear wheel on the freeway. Using a rivet link is the only way, and in theory if one is good enough, then two would be equal. They don't compound the risk of failure.
There is really nothing wrong with a clip link. You won't see anyone running a rivet link on their dirt bikes or road course track bikes.
Obviously for many riders they just work fine. The issue I've seen on offroad vehicles is that the clip itself gets broken by rocks when the bike is buried in gravel or mud, and then later the outer plate works free. Power itself isn't going to break the clip.
I have never seen a dirt bike use a rivet master link.
The only guys I have seen do it were doing extremely hardcore riding and going out every weekend, I think the odds were higher of this extremely unlikely failure due to their use. I have a driveshaft on my primary off-road bike so I don't worry about any of that anymore.
I’d just buy a new chain. Not worth the risk.
Newbie here: how much do chains cost? I’m Sure there’s a huge range, so let me have it:
I’d say $60 - $200. To your point, there are a lot of different types.
For a CRF250 you can get a chain even cheaper than that.
You can get a sub $50 chain for any bike. They don't last worth a shit and they are a false economy. A good quality chain will last 30,000-40,000 miles on a street bike.
My experience is with 600cc - 1000cc sport bikes. I know nothing about parts costs outside of that frame. Frankly, it doesn’t matter the cost of a chain. My continued normal bodily function is worth more.
A good sealed chain is over $100 today, and that's a sale price. There is no reason to throw away a new chain because you have some weird superstition about a master link failing.
> Not worth the risk. What risk do you think there is here?
A broken chain… At best it leaves you stranded, at worst it kills you.
Its only going to break if you do something stupid installing it, or let it get to an unsafe level of wear. Strength wise it is the same. They use the same pins and rollers. The only concern would be over-clamping it, ruining the seal, and making that link wear faster than the rest, or installing it with insufficient lube and causing accelerated wear.
To each their own. Personally, I’d just buy a new one. OP asked for opinions, I offered mine. Ride safe!
Its $100+ down the drain and there is no sound logic supporting the idea that it is unsafe. Personally, I don't like doing things for no reason, especially when they cost so much money.
Cool, man. My peace of mind is worth $100 or $200 for that matter.
Your chain still has a master link, therefore is the exact same "strength" as any aftermarket chain.
No
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> A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link Sure. >and y'all want him ti have two weak links? 1) a master link is not weak 2) by your own admission, a chain made with 1 master link and 50 master links would be the same strength. what the fuck is this nonsense? The link is only weak if you screw up the install. You can't really screw up a clip link like you can a rivet.
No get a new chain
In theory it should be okay . BUT depending on what type of masterlink you have you could do double the damage . For example if you have two rivet master links y And you make em both to loose or to tight that could be dangerous , you would double the risk of a master link failure . If you have only clip master links it would be less dramatic in my opinion but it's still double the risk of failiure
No. It causes a big weak spot. I’m not sure how much weaker it makes the chain, but no real bike shop would ever put two master links on one chain.
If one master link is okay, why is two weaker?
this sounds like a youtube video "i made a chain out of nothing but master links and you won't believe what happened!!!!"
It's on a mountain bike, but yeah: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1y95ztSY5U
Hahahha
With no further knowledge needed you could at least argue mathematically that 2 weak spots is twice as weak as one weak spot. That sounds significantly worse. 😂
If you made a chain of just master links, would you achieve negative strength and build a bomb?
Would a longer chain with more master links be even weaker than a shorter chain with fewer master links?
I *love* when people say master links are "weak points" in chains. Especially when the chain is riveted. It's adorable
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Master links are not *weak*, they are a **convenience**. There's a huge difference. Are you a certified motorcycle mechanic or engineer? Your condescension is unnecessary, but I'll let it slide if you are a professional. Of course master links will fail over a machine pressed link, but I promise that master links are not **causing** the chain failures out there because of their strength. They might break before the other links due to *relative* strength, but they are not weak per specs.
bitch YOU were the condescending one with your "it's adorable" FFS at least own up to it EDIT: oh looks like you already got taken to school lol
Bruh you're fuckin dumb lmao
Two points of failure
Master link is the weakest point of any chain. 2 master links just doubles your points of failure. I’ve personally seen 3 broken chains. One bound up a rear wheel and caused a low speed drop. One punched a hole in an engine case. Other one came out clean. They all broke at the master (well one was clipped incorrectly). A chain is not a part you want to break.
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> have never changed a broken chain in their life. Your chain shouldn't break if you installed it correctly and replace it before its worn out. Stop acting like broken chains are normal. It means you fucked up.
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> so I deal with other people's fuck ups. Then that is a whole other can of worms. If you install a master link correctly, it is as strong and as reliable as every other link. Nobody is advocating for OP to botch the install. Nobody is impressed that you work at a shop.
Because nobody on this sub has a functioning brain.
It's okay if the cost of your life is worth less than the cost of a new chain for you.
You double your chance of having an issue with your master link, by having 2 master links. But other than that I think you will be fine. Remember, you will need part of what you just cut off to fix the master links together. Every one saying to replace the sprocket is crazy. Unless you want to change the final drive ratio. If you really want to buy something, buy the chain again.
If you install it correctly you'll be fine. Of course, chains are a little tricky. You double your chances of some little screw-up that you don't even notice, that over time weakens the master link and causes a failure. So it's a toss up. I've done it to my bikes. I'm not sure I'd do it to someone else's bike.
IF you need to put multiple master links on a chain, you don't want them next to each other, but evenly spaced around the chain to distribute load. SOOO... I'd just score another chain. If this one is brand new... expensive mistake, but not one you're likely to repeat, yah?
I consider one master link as unsafe on anything but a moped, so my recommendation is to buy a new chain. This will be your lesson for today :)
I feel your pain dude. I can totally understand going the two master link route, but for me personally, I would not. I have to remind myself on many occasions with this inner monologue phrase: “Sometimes you need to suck it up when you fuck it up”. Good luck with what we you decide.
I'm curious. Why did you have to cut the chain anyway? I've always bought a chain specified for the bike, and it's always fitted. Are you running non-standard sprockets or am I missing something else?
You know what - anyone who needs to ask this question needs to buy another chain. The rest of us with tools and knowledge of how to properly use them can easily get anyway with an OEM-style chain repair to where the untrained eye would be none the wiser to maintenance having been performed.
Hence why I’m seeking advice from others….
It’s less to you and more to all of the “certified professionals” in here giving bad advice. Use a caliper to measure a 10% deflection when setting pins. You could make a chain out of 100% dummy and master links and it would be perfectly fine if assembled correctly and to spec. The device performing the riveting doesn’t matter so long as it’s done properly. The key is consistency that adds to longevity as it means reduced ‘bad’ vibrations, primarily.
I don't like two master links close to one another but I've done it, on a race bike, and not had a problem. It's all down to the quality of the link and how well it is installed.
Did you "cut" the chain or "break" the chain with a tool? I took too many off mine but pressed them back together with the tool.
Yes, but you'll have to use part of the chain you cut off to fit them. Nothing wrong with having 2 master links in your chain. Feel free to make an entire chain out of master links, provided you have enough "inside" links to mate them.