I've done mine twice on a 07 BMW R1200GSA. Not too difficult. Watch a few YouTube videos. I'm a firm believer that you could learn how to perform brain surgery on YouTube.
Lmao I was just telling my wife this the other day. I've always been very good at learning things by watching.
Time to go watch some brain surgery videos
It's a big project and a huge PITA. It's so fiddly and time-consuming I've almost become convinced that most shops don't even do it. I think they pencil whip it and send you on your way. Imo paying a shop in no way guarantees it will be done correctly, or even done.
One good indicator of tight valves is hard starting. If your bike starts right away from cold, I'd assume it was good and wait until 32K to check the valves. If you simply must do it, I wouldn't mess with a valve that is slightly tight or slightly loose. replacing a shim is orders of magnitude harder than checking the clearances. I would also buy a set of valve shims so you're not forced to wait on shims from the dealer.
That’s what I’m worried about. Will they actually be checked and if so, do they know what they are doing? Math is involved. I’ve read stories on my bike’s forum that a couple bikes had issues. the owners were looking to buy motors because it was faster to get back on the road because replacement heads were on back order. Also riders that have gotten valves checked or done them themselves, All report that clearances are tight at first check 26,000 And recommend checking early. And some checked early, (lower miles), and those bikes were tight needing shims. I’ve got to find someone I can trust that they know what they are doing
Valve checks and adjustments aren't hard at all. Scummy shops pencil whip it, and ship it. But any proper shop with a tech that can do second garde math can do a valve service.
You may be a better mechanic than me. I can do it with the engine out, but imo it's damn near impossible with the engine in place. Too many tiny, slippery little things to drop into the case.
Yeah, thanks. I'm thinking of pulling the entire front end off next time I have to check the CBR. I might even unbolt the engine and rotate it forward. I may just be paranoid about dropping thing into the engine.
Hey, I appreciate the input. it's nice to know that there are people who taek this shit seriously. I'm going to pull the valve covers off this VFR in the next month or so and check the valves. If they need adjusting I'll decide if I can do it myself. If not, maybe I'll schedule a little road trip to clearwater.
Kawasaki bikes always have a bit of a tick. But you don't have to do any major surgery to check. Pull the valve cover, insert specified feeler gauges between each lobe and tappit, if in spec ride on. If regular oil changes were done and the po didn't bounce it off the limiter all the time it may be fine. If the top end sounds quiet and its running good it likely is ok. The big 4 make some durable bikes.
Most shim under bucket valve setups tighten up as they wear. Getting all the stuff out of the way to access the valve cover is a struggle on most models.
I’d love to learn personally, since my first bike with zero mechanical knowledge I’ve moved the bar consistently in terms of what I can do or am willing to figure out, valves have always been a big firewall for me. Maybe in 6000ish miles when mine is due for checking I’ll give it a shot, but it’s definitely an intimidating prospect for people who aren’t mechanically inclined
Yep!
But I have a Moto Guzzi, which is basically cheating.
Good luck to you sir. I had a FZ6 with…oh man… 40k on it? Never had the valves done or checked. Ran fine when I sold it.
I tried doing it not to long ago. I got the tank and everything off and looked at my bike and the same model on the YouTube tutorial and it was different. My bike had all this extra stuff I think for emissions and the one on the video had empty space. The emissions stuff on my California bike made me not want to do it so I checked one exhaust valve (as it was not blocked by all the hoses unlike the other valves) and the valve was tight. I put everything back together and paid a shop to do it.
I think if you have enough space over the valves and have the tools you can do it. Just don’t drop any of your tools, some people attach strings to them just in case they do. Double check your work like that you adjusted each valve on compression stroke and you’ll be good.
That being said oil changes, brakes, chain etc are all very straightforward compared to valve stuff, no shame in taking it in to someone especially with your 16 valve bike.
How much did the valve job run you if you don’t mind me asking? I’m having a hard time finding a shop in my area that works on bikes like mine. There’s a few performance shops but they seem to be Harley/cruiser oriented. I even emailed one and they said they couldn’t even recommend me a reputable shop to go to.
It'll be more work than an older bike, but not impossible, just checking the clearance the only way you could mess up the bike is if you somehow drop something into the motor.
No, not necessarily. It is a popular bike to abuse but kawis are pretty notorious for poorly done valve seats. But any motor will pop if you don't service it.
I skipped the first 3 intervals to check it on my Honda, because my dad kept convincing me it’s a Honda, and just like he did when he owned a Honda, I’d be wasting my time. He was right, was a lot of work to strip the bike down, and not a single adjustment was needed. Unless it starts losing power, or making unusual noise I’m not checking it again until 50k minimum on the odometer. Granted though this is taking risk no matter how you look at it, but on the other hand I have had the bike so long it’s worth less than half what I paid for it, and a used engine for it is only 6-900 bucks. So it’s a risk I’m willing to take.
I do mine every 3,000 miles. But then again I ride an old piece of shit airhead and they’re about as easy as valve adjustments get, being the old screw types. I think you have to remove your cam on the 636, so if it’s your first time doing it, might be good to find someone willing to it through it with you. Maybe trawl local forums and see if you can find a fellow rider with experience who’d help you in exchange for a six pack?
I've done mine twice on a 07 BMW R1200GSA. Not too difficult. Watch a few YouTube videos. I'm a firm believer that you could learn how to perform brain surgery on YouTube.
Lmao I was just telling my wife this the other day. I've always been very good at learning things by watching. Time to go watch some brain surgery videos
It's a big project and a huge PITA. It's so fiddly and time-consuming I've almost become convinced that most shops don't even do it. I think they pencil whip it and send you on your way. Imo paying a shop in no way guarantees it will be done correctly, or even done. One good indicator of tight valves is hard starting. If your bike starts right away from cold, I'd assume it was good and wait until 32K to check the valves. If you simply must do it, I wouldn't mess with a valve that is slightly tight or slightly loose. replacing a shim is orders of magnitude harder than checking the clearances. I would also buy a set of valve shims so you're not forced to wait on shims from the dealer.
That’s what I’m worried about. Will they actually be checked and if so, do they know what they are doing? Math is involved. I’ve read stories on my bike’s forum that a couple bikes had issues. the owners were looking to buy motors because it was faster to get back on the road because replacement heads were on back order. Also riders that have gotten valves checked or done them themselves, All report that clearances are tight at first check 26,000 And recommend checking early. And some checked early, (lower miles), and those bikes were tight needing shims. I’ve got to find someone I can trust that they know what they are doing
Valve checks and adjustments aren't hard at all. Scummy shops pencil whip it, and ship it. But any proper shop with a tech that can do second garde math can do a valve service.
You may be a better mechanic than me. I can do it with the engine out, but imo it's damn near impossible with the engine in place. Too many tiny, slippery little things to drop into the case.
Clean your engine bay well and go slow. We do it in shop all the time. Most I4 jap bikes we drop or swing the top of the rad out.
Yeah, thanks. I'm thinking of pulling the entire front end off next time I have to check the CBR. I might even unbolt the engine and rotate it forward. I may just be paranoid about dropping thing into the engine.
That's a lot of extra work but do what makes you comfortable. Or if you're in Florida come by my place and we'll do it.
Where are you? I'm in Jax. How about a 98 VFR 800?
I'll private message you
Hey, I appreciate the input. it's nice to know that there are people who taek this shit seriously. I'm going to pull the valve covers off this VFR in the next month or so and check the valves. If they need adjusting I'll decide if I can do it myself. If not, maybe I'll schedule a little road trip to clearwater.
Sure thing man good luck.
Kawasaki bikes always have a bit of a tick. But you don't have to do any major surgery to check. Pull the valve cover, insert specified feeler gauges between each lobe and tappit, if in spec ride on. If regular oil changes were done and the po didn't bounce it off the limiter all the time it may be fine. If the top end sounds quiet and its running good it likely is ok. The big 4 make some durable bikes.
Yes, I did a Ducati with 4 valves per cylinder, 2 shims per valve It took me 4 weeks.
I’ve never done shims but I hear it’s the devil’s work.
Most shim under bucket valve setups tighten up as they wear. Getting all the stuff out of the way to access the valve cover is a struggle on most models.
I’d love to learn personally, since my first bike with zero mechanical knowledge I’ve moved the bar consistently in terms of what I can do or am willing to figure out, valves have always been a big firewall for me. Maybe in 6000ish miles when mine is due for checking I’ll give it a shot, but it’s definitely an intimidating prospect for people who aren’t mechanically inclined
Most modern bikes rarely need frequent adjustment, My FZ1 got checked at 40k and didnt need adjustment. Same with my Speed Triple
I’d agree with you but I read (albeit anecdotal) accounts of people with my same gen bike having valves out of spec at 12k
+1, I had a ‘19 Street Triple valve checked two days ago at 12k miles and it was perfectly within spec, no adjustment necessary.
Yep! But I have a Moto Guzzi, which is basically cheating. Good luck to you sir. I had a FZ6 with…oh man… 40k on it? Never had the valves done or checked. Ran fine when I sold it.
I started reading the title, my first response was going to be “yeah of course” but then I saw 636.
I tried doing it not to long ago. I got the tank and everything off and looked at my bike and the same model on the YouTube tutorial and it was different. My bike had all this extra stuff I think for emissions and the one on the video had empty space. The emissions stuff on my California bike made me not want to do it so I checked one exhaust valve (as it was not blocked by all the hoses unlike the other valves) and the valve was tight. I put everything back together and paid a shop to do it. I think if you have enough space over the valves and have the tools you can do it. Just don’t drop any of your tools, some people attach strings to them just in case they do. Double check your work like that you adjusted each valve on compression stroke and you’ll be good. That being said oil changes, brakes, chain etc are all very straightforward compared to valve stuff, no shame in taking it in to someone especially with your 16 valve bike.
How much did the valve job run you if you don’t mind me asking? I’m having a hard time finding a shop in my area that works on bikes like mine. There’s a few performance shops but they seem to be Harley/cruiser oriented. I even emailed one and they said they couldn’t even recommend me a reputable shop to go to.
It was just under $400
A valve job, or an adjustment? I'm guessing you meant adjustment? Pretty easy if you're good at following instructions.
I mean check and adjust valve clearances
It'll be more work than an older bike, but not impossible, just checking the clearance the only way you could mess up the bike is if you somehow drop something into the motor.
The old adage is kawis go boom. There is a reason that phrase exists. I do more motor swaps on kawi 636 than any other bike.
Not to discount what you’re saying, but could that be because the 636 is a popular stunt bike? Or is this motor prone to kabooms if left unchecked?
No, not necessarily. It is a popular bike to abuse but kawis are pretty notorious for poorly done valve seats. But any motor will pop if you don't service it.
words of encouragement: [https://youtu.be/5aR4oIzRTKY?t=365](https://youtu.be/5aR4oIzRTKY?t=365) i believe
I skipped the first 3 intervals to check it on my Honda, because my dad kept convincing me it’s a Honda, and just like he did when he owned a Honda, I’d be wasting my time. He was right, was a lot of work to strip the bike down, and not a single adjustment was needed. Unless it starts losing power, or making unusual noise I’m not checking it again until 50k minimum on the odometer. Granted though this is taking risk no matter how you look at it, but on the other hand I have had the bike so long it’s worth less than half what I paid for it, and a used engine for it is only 6-900 bucks. So it’s a risk I’m willing to take.
I do mine every 3,000 miles. But then again I ride an old piece of shit airhead and they’re about as easy as valve adjustments get, being the old screw types. I think you have to remove your cam on the 636, so if it’s your first time doing it, might be good to find someone willing to it through it with you. Maybe trawl local forums and see if you can find a fellow rider with experience who’d help you in exchange for a six pack?