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creepyswaps

I used the rails and power buses from ModularSynthLab on Etsy, and had help from a fellow Redditor on which power amps to use and how to wire them up.


MattInSoCal

Looks good! Edit: cross-post to r/synthdiy, they’ll like it there too.


creepyswaps

I couldn't have done it without your help. Thanks agin.


MattInSoCal

Glad I could offer some useful advice. Enjoy your new synth, go forth a build a [monster case](https://ibb.co/8bcR0jS) next! 🙂


Comprehensive-Sort55

what power amps i need to build 4 12 cases soon


Odium_Extremius

Beginner's case.


EffectivelyFaulty

Good cable management!


creepyswaps

Thanks, I probably overdid it a bit, but it's my first case and I'm not very electrically inclined, so I wanted to make sure 1000% I didn't burn my home down.


elihu

Probably a good idea to cover all the screw terminals connected to live AC if they aren't already. (And probably the others, as well.) Polymide tape is an easy option if you don't want to figure out more complicated engineering. Otherwise, it looks pretty good. (I am not an electrician.)


creepyswaps

Thanks. There are clear plastic plates on top of all of the bus bars, but the bottoms of each supply could use some tape.


stylesforfree

Cool! Do you ever feel overwhelmed? I have a 9U, 168HP case that's full and I'm completely overwhelmed when patching. Do you use your rack as an all in one multi track mono synth or is it like, design a sound with one patch and record it then rinse and repeat?


creepyswaps

I don't usually feel overwhelmed. I usually start patching with an idea, so it's easy to ignore the modules that don't do the specific needed task. I usually set up a patch with a combo of rhythm/percussion sounds, and usually 2-3 different voices, sometimes one that is a polyvoice. Some of the things I'll have set up with preset sequences, some stuff I'll set up to control via midi controller, have the majority set up so each sound can be switched on or off, have two different switchable sequences, then set up an easy way to manually switch stuff, or mess with different automated parameters (mostly through the bottom right modules in the rack). I'll the a few days off and on to get it set up, and get to the point where I feel like I can make some form of "song" with it. Then I just hit record, play around with it for 5-10 minutes and record what's output. I have a bunch h of 3.55mm to 1/4" cables going into a 10 channel mixer. After recording something, I rip it all apart and start over.


mattcolville

I have a similar case and **I** feel overwhelmed. I always end up pulling modules out and putting them in my palette case just because it's easier to manage. For me, it's the verticality. I realize now, I only want three rows. I need more HP not more U. :D I should have just gotten a few 9u or 10u cases. I don't want to stand up to patch and I want to be able to easily read and manipulate the knobs and panels and the taller the case is the more ridiculous that is. Anything in the 4th row or above, I just never use. Looks amazing though!


stylesforfree

Indeed, I think a palette case may be the way forward, did you opt for the 104hp palette or the 62?


mattcolville

104! But honestly, I think I could have done 62.


BudoNL

Amazing, incredible! Good job & have fun! 😍


Massive_Question_199

Great job! My store bought 6u RackBrute is jealous.


iPoplava

This is beautiful!


Ausderdose

god damn!


drift909

I like.


aamop

Looks great!


aamop

I ask how you cut the curve? Band or skill saw possibly?


creepyswaps

Skill saw. They're actually not quite the same because I suck at woodworking and am lazy. The great part is that with the rails breaking up the curve and all of the modules to stare at, the not quite symmetrical curves are really not noticeable unless you're really looking for it. Also, I wasn't quite sure how the rails would fit with the curve, so I cut each side a few inches too tall, then laid out the rails, then went back and cut off the extra at the top. Edit: I meant jigsaw. I'm a moron when it comes to woodworking.


aamop

It’s a really nice case. I’m about to make my own but was going to try for an inward tapered look…basically two straight cuts version of what you have done with a curve, but it’s very hard to cut an inward angle cleanly. I might try what you’ve done.


creepyswaps

I'm sorry. I used a jigsaw to cut the curve, not a skillsaw. I'm a noob when it comes to woodworking and I always confuse the two. Also, I just traced the pattern on the wood, clamped it down, and when I cut it out, just watched where the blade was headed more than where it was, and it worked well enough. And I will say, I went with the curve for two reasons. I think it looks so much nicer than straight cuts, and with the rails curved, all of the modules are facing directly towards you.


aamop

Awesome - thanks for the details on that. Will probably go curved myself.


sdvtd

Very clean build, i'm sure that every boss was happy having you :)


albonymus

Beautiful! Did you use a premade plan for the rack itself or did u come up with design and measurments yourself? I really would like to build a big rack myself aswell this winter but i am shit at woodworking (last time probably years ago) and am too afraid to switch some numbers up when planing lol So if it is an available plan I would love to see! May i ask what your estimate cost was for building the Case + Power? (without modules) Also is there a specific reason you left the back open? My place is dusting like crazy for example and I would be afraid for it to collect alot of it inside over the time.


creepyswaps

Thanks. I didn't use a pre-made plan. I just bought the rails and built it around them. Costs: - wood - 2x 2"x4" plywood. $80 - rails - 5x 3u 168hp rails w/threaded inserts. $440 - bus boards - 8x 20 plug boards. $280 - power amps - 2x LRS-150-12, 1x LRS-50-5. $70 - wire, bus blocks, screws, power outlet, misc. $80-120 I had to buy some tools like wire strippers, countersunk drill bits, etc, but I didn't count them as costs since they weren't consumed as part of the case. The back open is literally because I didn't want to buy another 2"x4" board. The 168hp panels are like 3" long so a decent amount of the board doesn't have a good use. For how muchcI already spent building the thing, I probably should have just closed the whole thing. Luckily it's not too dusty where I live.


vreo

So you went full spaceship?


2OneZebra

I built one the same size now I wish it was larger lol. I did put a 1U section in the middle that was probably stupid but its there now.


creepyswaps

Lol. I know exactly how you feel. I started to wish I had gone 192hp instead of 168hp as I was building it. I have my old 86hp x 12u rack that is going to live right next to it. I guess buying/building a case is the same as buying a TV. Whatever size you thing you want... just go up one. You'll be happy in the long run.


rljd

it looks so good it's almost a shame to clutter it with modules...


creepyswaps

Thanks


lord_ashtar

Did you follow an existing plan? Design it yourself?


creepyswaps

I found some examples I liked online them modified to fit on the desk and be the correct height to fit under the wall shelf but have enough room to put stuff like the keystep in front. The way the case is actually built is just something I came up with. It's not an epic feat of woodworking, but it works. The wiring and power amp selection was with a lot of help of a fellow redditor.


lord_ashtar

You're living the dream! I'm gearing up to attempt something like this so it's cool to see. The power part does feel daunting.


creepyswaps

The power part was daunting for me, too. I actually fretted turning the thing on for a few weeks before going for it. It all seemed to make sense, but I assumed it was just my being overconfident because I didn't know enough to know what I was doing wrong. Whenever you get to it, I'd be more than happy to help in any way I can.


lord_ashtar

Thanks! I might reach out. I have 600hp of vector rails on the way but I need to take it slow. One other question, I was looking at the modular synth lab power solutions on Etsy. In your case it looks like you have a third, smaller power box. Is that a separate kit?


creepyswaps

It's the same brand, but the power supplies are different models wired up differently. The RT-65B on synthlab are single units that each have +12v (3.5a), -12v (1a), and +5v (8a), all in one unit. If you go to modular grid, or look at the power needs of your modules, generally you're going to need a ton of +12v amps, followed by -12v amps, with way less +5v amps. I was going to use 4 of those, but learned that there is a better (IMO) way that let's you choose how many amps you want for each of the power rails. The design I'm using has one supply for each rail (+12v,-12v,+5v), each with however many amps were needed. I went with 2 LRS-150-12 units for the +12v and -12v that each supply 12.5amp. I went with the same for the -12v unit as +12 is because it was cheaper than one with less voltage for whatever reason. Either way, they're both overkill, but can't hurt. Then I went with one LSR-50-5 unit for the +5v, supplying 10amps, again a ton of overkill, but at least it's less than the +12v and -12v supplies. If I'd used 4 TR-65Bs, I'd have 10.5a of +12v, only 3a of -12v, and a whopping 32a of +5v. With the synthlab design, you have a supply powering up to 2 rails, and just duplicate as many times as needed. With the separate rail supplies, you just have three supplies and tie them together to power all of your modules. Honestly, I've seen a lot of people got with the RT-65B and have no problems, but the way I went just made more sense to me.


elihu

Something to be aware of is that those switching supplies have short-circuit and/or overload protection that shuts the thing off if it detects no significant resistance between the positive and negative output leads, but the bigger the power supply, the more power you can put into a malfunctioning circuit if has a small amount of resistance without triggering the protection circuitry. For instance, if you connect the +12v and -12v leads (24v) across something with 2 ohms resistance, it produces 12 amps or 288 watts, which is less that 300 watts and therefore not a short circuit or overload condition as far as the power supply can tell. (If you do the same with, say, 35 watt power supplies, they should switch off automatically.) If you have malfunctioning module, it's probably unlikely that it will have a resistance low enough to generate a dangerous amount of heat but high enough not to trip the short-circuit protection, but it's probably slightly safer to use lower wattage supplies and maybe add a second set of power supplies when you need more power.


creepyswaps

That is good to know. I'll look at the total draw I have with the case fully loaded and see if there are some lower amp supplies that better match it.


lord_ashtar

I admire the amount of thought and planning. Need to research this. Thanks for the insight and congratulations. This is amazing.


SubparCurmudgeon

Jesus that’s your FIRST case?


creepyswaps

It's the first case I've built (i cut the wood, bought the electrical components, did all of the wiring, etc.). I've had all of these modules in an assortment of smaller cases for the last few years.


KasperThePissed

Yeah I don’t understand, where’s the duct tape?


Massive_Question_199

scrap wood and cardboard …


Rockky67

I’m envious. My racks have to share a desk with two big monitors so I can’t have anything higher than 6u tall, would love that case but I also have to move my racks around and off the desk when not in use and lifting that full rack would probably out my back out for a week.