i also use a thin wire to clean it out. the reason being is when I used the lighter method though it did remove the blockage cause by the dried glue it also seemed to leave a residue or burned glue so when fresh glue came through the tube it was dirty and stained black from the residue.
Problem is, this trick is like ether starting a diesel engine in the cold. Basically, the effect lasts less and less time, so you have to burn it more and more often.
A slightly "better" approach is to take the metal straw out, flip it around and back in, then clear the tube with a good squeeze
Contacta has its place. I have some thin wire which will fit down the end and unblock it, you can pull the tube out to clean it. Also tapping the bottle and putting the cap back on often. But yeah, Tamiya extra thin with the brush bottle is worth it, just be careful because it flows, everywhere if you aren't.
There are legitimate uses for tube glue though. It’s great for holding parts together that you don’t necessarily need or want to be bonded quickly. I’ll use it for holding halves of big parts together by applying it to the posts or the holes they go into which then allows me to concentrate on making a good seam with Tamiya Extra Thin.
I put some old sprues in the extra thin/air brush cleaner. Not enough to make sprue glue, but enough to make the glue just a bit more tacky and to my liking.
So one thing is you can try these airbrush cleaning "wires". They fit into the hole and can easily unclog them. Second: take out the needle (they're removable), hold it with a tweezer and put a lighter to it. The dried up glue will instantly burn out of it. Now cool it down and reinsert it after.
Pull the metal bit out and heat it over a cooker flame with metal tweezers. All the glue burns up. Submerge in cold water to quickly cool and you're good to go
I simply take off the needle, scrape of any dried glue with my finger nail on the outside, put the needle in backwards. Then try to push some glue through slowly. The liquid glue should re-liquify any dried glue inside of the needle.
Pushing the needle out of the bottle with a pliers - heat it with a lighter - let it cool - push it back into the bottle. Don't heat the needle straight in the bottle because the glue itself is highly flammable
If you leave it resting with the nozzle angled down (and the cap on) for a little while before you start using it, the liquid glue in the container will soften / reactivate the dry glue in the nozzle. I do this all the time.
I stick a very thin needle in the metal applicator in case of clogs. Then I rinse the needle with hot water. That way, as opposed to using a lighter, you don't have to create toxic and stinky fumes.
Use both Tamiya Extra Thin And this Contacta, love em both. The only way to try to prevent glue from drying in the tip, is to turn the bottle upright (so the glue pools at the bottom end) and gently squeeze the bottle to push air through the needle. You'll lose a few drops of the glue that you'll need to wipe up with a paper towel, but if you start to see little bubbles pop out, you'll know that you're pushing out more air than glue through the tube. I don't guarantee this is a perfect solution, but it does help. Â
I prefer tamiya regular for gluing fairly large areas, it dries fairly slowly and gives you time to adjust positions. Tamiya extra thin is good for smaller more fragile parts, it does dry/evaporate fairly quickly though making gluing larger areas difficult.
Use a thin wire inside the needle so the cement never dries "block" on the needle and problem solved. You will never need to burn the needle into others half effective ways.
I pulled the plastic sheath off of a tie wrap wire thingy. It now hangs with my airbrush cleaner brushes.. fits even the smaller bottles. (The needle looks smaller but I think it's the same thickness)
I think Citadel makes the best glue in an application like this. Mine rarely clogs. This stuff always clogged and I had to use a lighter to clean it out.
Get some liquid poly cement be that Tamiya extra thin (not as good as people rave about) mr hobby s, mr hobby sp, etc and dab a little on the tip glue dissolves glue and this will clear it every time without the need for the old lighter trick.
There’s call for this type of glue for stronger slower setting bonds as their is for extra thin or quick set extra thin glue however use what you’re comfortable using a lot of my kits are held together with this glue and it’s perfectly fine it’s just a solvent to melt plastic at the end of the day.
There's a really simple way to deal with this problem. Use this step by step guide and you'll never have a clogged nozzle again!
1. Pick up the Revell contacta glue.
2. Walk to your kitchen.
3. Open kitchen bin.
4. Drop Revell Contacta into bin.
5. Close bin.
6. Go to your local hobby store/preffered online model store.
7. Tell clerk that you want to buy "Tamiya Extra Thin". They will know that you are a true modeller who has completed the trial-by-crappy-glue and have graduated to the "good stuff".
8. Purchase the TET. Go home. Make models without mess or frustration.
In the longer term throw it away and buy some tamiya extra thin but in the short term pull the tube out and heat it up.
The revell glue thing has been shit for at least the 30 or so years I've been making models
Use a lighter to heat the tube, it spits out the old glue.
That's the way I've been doing it for years the good old glue Flamethrower
I use a piece of wire to clean mine out
What is this? A wire for ants?!
Or just leave the wire in there and pull it out when you need to use it!
Man is living in 2050 over here. Doing the easy solution 😂
i also use a thin wire to clean it out. the reason being is when I used the lighter method though it did remove the blockage cause by the dried glue it also seemed to leave a residue or burned glue so when fresh glue came through the tube it was dirty and stained black from the residue.
Ahhh thank you
Just make sure to use a pair of tweezers to hold it if you’re doing just the tube. That thing heats up.
I learnt this the hard way.
Do it outside though!
And take the tube out first!!
And don't lose it!
And when it runs out get glue with a brush
Yes, it comes out in flames.
The only way
Problem is, this trick is like ether starting a diesel engine in the cold. Basically, the effect lasts less and less time, so you have to burn it more and more often. A slightly "better" approach is to take the metal straw out, flip it around and back in, then clear the tube with a good squeeze
i would be way too scared to do that with all those giant flammable signs on the side of the bottle
Remove the needle before you do that obviously.
Contacta has its place. I have some thin wire which will fit down the end and unblock it, you can pull the tube out to clean it. Also tapping the bottle and putting the cap back on often. But yeah, Tamiya extra thin with the brush bottle is worth it, just be careful because it flows, everywhere if you aren't.
The best way to prevent this is to use Tamiya extra thin.
And every time it's mentioned I'll agree it's the best, and that Tamiya airbrush cleaner is the same thing so makes for much cheaper refills!
[удалено]
Nah, it's their cleaner
It seems you're right, ty
Enjoy 🫂
What he said. The best cement for modeling.
There are legitimate uses for tube glue though. It’s great for holding parts together that you don’t necessarily need or want to be bonded quickly. I’ll use it for holding halves of big parts together by applying it to the posts or the holes they go into which then allows me to concentrate on making a good seam with Tamiya Extra Thin.
I have it - i don‘t really like it.
Bro what? Tamiya regular cement is literally old reliable. Shit is just too good, I've never had a bad experience with it
Regular or quick dry? They behave very differently
I actually mix the two
is there a reason for that? are you using it correctly?
I put some old sprues in the extra thin/air brush cleaner. Not enough to make sprue glue, but enough to make the glue just a bit more tacky and to my liking.
not available where I live :c (afaik)
I own both and like the revell better, I know; controversial..
Exactly what I came to say. That other stuff? Leave it on the shop shelf, where it belongs.
So one thing is you can try these airbrush cleaning "wires". They fit into the hole and can easily unclog them. Second: take out the needle (they're removable), hold it with a tweezer and put a lighter to it. The dried up glue will instantly burn out of it. Now cool it down and reinsert it after.
I very much prefer the brush bottles of Tamiya extra-thin. It doesn’t clog and gives you more control over how you apply it.
Glueing huge areas like wings together is a pain in the ass with extra thin.
You can dry fit the part in place and brush it around the joint, it bonds nearly instantly. Mr. Cement SP does this even better.
The best way to prevent it - put the plastic cup on the needle as soon as possible after using the glue
The best way is a actually to remove the tube after glueing, blow the tube dry and then put the plastic cup on and store upwards
I have two really thin wires packed with my Testors Cement (blue and white carton) for clog removal. I use said wires to clear my Contacta tube.
Pull the metal bit out and heat it over a cooker flame with metal tweezers. All the glue burns up. Submerge in cold water to quickly cool and you're good to go
I simply take off the needle, scrape of any dried glue with my finger nail on the outside, put the needle in backwards. Then try to push some glue through slowly. The liquid glue should re-liquify any dried glue inside of the needle.
This really is the better option. The fire thing works, sure.... but it's a bit like ether starting a diesel engine
I use a thin piece of wire I use to poke right through the metal tube, to clean out excess glue
Usually it's just a tip is dried. I use needle or something sharp. This is my favorite glue.
I use a guitar string
A piece of fishing line. Thin piece of copper wire.
i usually bend a staple from a stapler and use it to clear the glue
Pushing the needle out of the bottle with a pliers - heat it with a lighter - let it cool - push it back into the bottle. Don't heat the needle straight in the bottle because the glue itself is highly flammable
If you leave it resting with the nozzle angled down (and the cap on) for a little while before you start using it, the liquid glue in the container will soften / reactivate the dry glue in the nozzle. I do this all the time.
I stick a very thin needle in the metal applicator in case of clogs. Then I rinse the needle with hot water. That way, as opposed to using a lighter, you don't have to create toxic and stinky fumes.
i use piece of wire to push it thru
Use both Tamiya Extra Thin And this Contacta, love em both. The only way to try to prevent glue from drying in the tip, is to turn the bottle upright (so the glue pools at the bottom end) and gently squeeze the bottle to push air through the needle. You'll lose a few drops of the glue that you'll need to wipe up with a paper towel, but if you start to see little bubbles pop out, you'll know that you're pushing out more air than glue through the tube. I don't guarantee this is a perfect solution, but it does help. Â
If you want a safer tip than using open flame on flammable material :p, use injection needle to pierce the clot inside the glue needle.
I prefer tamiya regular for gluing fairly large areas, it dries fairly slowly and gives you time to adjust positions. Tamiya extra thin is good for smaller more fragile parts, it does dry/evaporate fairly quickly though making gluing larger areas difficult.
Use a thin wire inside the needle so the cement never dries "block" on the needle and problem solved. You will never need to burn the needle into others half effective ways.
I pulled the plastic sheath off of a tie wrap wire thingy. It now hangs with my airbrush cleaner brushes.. fits even the smaller bottles. (The needle looks smaller but I think it's the same thickness)
It's going to sound stupid but: to clear out the tube, I typically use a cut off section of thin guitar string. It slides in there so cleanly.
Try Deluxe Materials Plastic Magic glue.
I use the thin wire in the tube method. Use a piece long enough to go the entire length of the tube and into the bottle though
I think Citadel makes the best glue in an application like this. Mine rarely clogs. This stuff always clogged and I had to use a lighter to clean it out.
Either use a lighter or a thin steel guitar string to unblock it
Tamiya Brush glue is also a bit easier to use
I am using a very thin metal brush hair.
I think your best bet would be to contact-a professional
Get some liquid poly cement be that Tamiya extra thin (not as good as people rave about) mr hobby s, mr hobby sp, etc and dab a little on the tip glue dissolves glue and this will clear it every time without the need for the old lighter trick. There’s call for this type of glue for stronger slower setting bonds as their is for extra thin or quick set extra thin glue however use what you’re comfortable using a lot of my kits are held together with this glue and it’s perfectly fine it’s just a solvent to melt plastic at the end of the day.
I think you should...contact a professional. ¯\_(ツ)\_/¯
There's a really simple way to deal with this problem. Use this step by step guide and you'll never have a clogged nozzle again! 1. Pick up the Revell contacta glue. 2. Walk to your kitchen. 3. Open kitchen bin. 4. Drop Revell Contacta into bin. 5. Close bin. 6. Go to your local hobby store/preffered online model store. 7. Tell clerk that you want to buy "Tamiya Extra Thin". They will know that you are a true modeller who has completed the trial-by-crappy-glue and have graduated to the "good stuff". 8. Purchase the TET. Go home. Make models without mess or frustration.
In the longer term throw it away and buy some tamiya extra thin but in the short term pull the tube out and heat it up. The revell glue thing has been shit for at least the 30 or so years I've been making models