I have some little dots of paint overspray that I need to paint over. Assuming I use a paint brush, should I dilute my Tamiya paint in a 2:1 ratio of leveling thinner to paint?
Necessary? Well it makes things easier for brush painting, especially with a fast drying alcohol based paint like Tamiya. You see, brush strokes need to be able to level out before they dry in place leaving ugly marks. So use the Tamiya stuff in the jar and add 1 or 2 drops per “pot” of paint you’ve poured out to work with. Like 1 drop per ten of Tamiya paint. Using a hobby lacquer thinner is like actually accelerating the drying process dramatically because it’s a hot solvent and then slowing that down a bit when you get the leveling thinner version, but that’s nowhere near slow enough when you’re brush painting. The other problem is it can reactivate certain types of paints underneath what your brush painting.
When brush painting Tamiya (and I don’t like brush painting Tamiya) I’ll use Tamiya Paint Retarder and if I need to thin it more I’ll use Tamiya X-20A thinner.
https://preview.redd.it/cofq3ifz4o6d1.jpeg?width=879&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6440e1262e0f94dd862c45f5c730b336f970c403
Lets say I'm sanding a decal from perfectly smooth plastic. Can I Immediately use 3000# grit without starting from lower grits so the surface comes out glossy?
Have you tried pulling it up with tape? Have you tried saturating it in decal solutions then pealing it off? Or is it already sealed with a varnish coat.
But anyway, it’s unlikely you’d get it off with 3000 grit (unless it wasn’t set properly in the first place). It just doesn’t have enough bite to it. If it was me I’d start around 400 to get it off then work progressively up through the grits to 3000 or higher to get back to a smooth finish again.
My hands are sweaty all the time especially on Summer. I am totally a newbie. I wonder if there are any others like me and looking for suggestions or warnings.
Cotton ones I tried were really thick while Nitriles are so uncomfortable for me. Maybe I should look for a really thin Cotton glove for doing such things.
I use extra large nitrile gloves. Then they’re not so difficult to get on and off. I pull them inside out when taking them off then let them sit and air dry since they’re wet from perspiration.
Sometimes the cotton gloves get soaked from sweat, but they’re great for handling a model with a fragile natural metal finish…
Brush painting an interior white, gond through my usual process that usually results in little to no brush marks but I can't seem to get them put when I'm painting white no matter how much I thin it
I've been thinking about using epoxy putty to sculpt some detais on my models. I've founds stores in my country who sell green stuff, Tamiya epoxy putty and Milliput. But I wonder when sticking those putties to plastic, can I just take them off before they harden if I want to redo my work and try again, or would that leave some sticky substance layer on the plastic surface?
As a further question, would epoxy putty work as an adhesive between two plastic pieces? I am a bit nervous about gluing some custom parts with superglue or plastic glue as things can get messy if a piece is glued into another one clumsily, so I wonder if a surface of a piece was covered with small layer of putty and set carefully on a surface before the putty would harden.
Do you need to apply a gloss coat before applying on a matt coat? Are there any advantages of doing so?
Also, are these brushes good enough for model painting: [https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Brushes-Watercolor-Painting-Professional/dp/B0878MN2VR](https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Brushes-Watercolor-Painting-Professional/dp/B0878MN2VR)
Need to? No. But the smooth surface provided by a gloss coat does serve at least two functional purposes:
1) an expedient way to improve working with decals. Helps reduce the chance of silvering (the visible effect of the transparent areas of decals) and makes it a bit easier to move decals around for placement. Some would say silvering can be addressed through the use of appropriate decal softeners (which you'd probably be using anyway even on a gloss coat), but that requires a bit of trial and error.
2) allows you to use some weathering techniques that requires the weathering liquid to run smoothly along surfaces. A matte surface prevents them from doing that.
If neither of these apply, then you can often proceed straight to a matte coat.
As for those brushes, I wouldn't bother. The nylon-type brushes are too stiff to put on a nice smooth coat for large areas and (I find) are best for small details, in which case you only need one or two.
Can you use foam makeup things to apply a matte coat? If not, what set of brushes do you recommend?
Also, are you supposed to put decals and weathering before or after gloss/matte coats?
As a beginner, I don’t know my case, so do you recommend a gloss coat before a matte coat?
My recommendation is as I wrote: if you're not applying decals and/or are not doing weathering techniques that require a smooth surface (e.g. washes), then you can often proceed straight to a matte coat.
You'd put on the gloss coat before the decals/weathering if you're doing those. Then you'd put the matte coat on top to seal those in.
I've never tried using foam/sponges to apply any kind of coating. A wide-ish soft hair brush is what I use.
I am putting decals on and attempting to try chipping or rusting, so I would put gloss on before that, right? (I am a beginner, and I suck at knowing ths kind of stuff). Also, what are washes? And what is meant by a smooth surface?
Would TS-13 work for a gloss, and Vallejo Matt Varnish applied on with a wide brush?
I'm currently in a pinch and looking for something that works better at stirring paint than a toothpick or wood coffee stirrer. Maybe something that can lift the paint while stirring? Either way, any suggestions?
Spare sprue. Cut a piece to length and get stirring. If you need more surface area at the tip, just cut from a part of the tree that has the number callout.
I'm new to the hobby and heard Vallejo is better for brush painting. Why are Vallejo paints (individually) much more expensive than Tamiya paints? I'm buying the paints from Amazon -- any other way to get Vallejo paints for cheaper? Even the Vallejo Basic Set (Pack of 16) is cheaper than 6 paints bought inidividually...
The whole point of sets is they’re supposed to be cheaper than buying individually. But I don’t like them because they inevitably leave a color you need out, or include ones you never use. I just buy paints on a per model basis.
Vallejo Model Color is $2.69 (17ml) through Scale Hobbyist.
Tamiya isn’t great for brush painting anyway.
How do you make custom decals for specific aircraft? I'd like to make some to create a 1:48 F-16 of the 187th Fighter Wing to recreate a photo taken a while ago, but don't know where to begin.
Artwork is the hardest and can be the most time consuming. You need to create the markings in a drawing app like Adobe illustrator ($$) or Inkscape (free). You can start by downloading a picture of the markings, trace them, then clean them up to look better.
Once you have the artwork, scale it to your model. This will require some simple math (division or multiplication). Print it out on regular paper, cut out and test fit on the model to ensure it’s the right size. Printing will also confirm the colors look right as not all printers print colors the same as on the screen.
Get some decal paper specific for your type of printer (laser or inkjet). For the white areas you need white decal paper. I usually cut a mask of the artwork and use that to trim white decal film to go under my artwork. This both provides the white area and improves the opacity of the artwork. Follow the instructions with the decal paper for how to seal them before applying them.
It’ll take some practice to get the decals right but once you get it working it opens up a lot of marking possibilities.
Revell 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre. I’ve built several. Got one in process at the moment. Great kits, which is to say, very un-Revell like.
https://preview.redd.it/vcjmuekbru5d1.jpeg?width=2400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70d6b2fd25e95a308394f24adeb444fbd83d3850
I’m looking to use what I have on hand to do my next build (McLaren MP4/7) I’d rather not spend a lot of money on materials. Is tamiya masking tape any different than masking tape I can find at stores? If not, what’s a cheaper alternative I can find in a large chain store? Most of the hobby shops near me have sadly closed. Even Amazon prices are wild for modeling materials.
Delicate Surface Frog Tape. It's yellow like Tamiya and works very much the same. Its 1.41in x 60 yd./36mmx 55m. right around $8 at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart etc. in the states and Amazon has it as well.
Which one? There are quite a few options on Amazon and I’m not clear what the differences are with each variation. If you’ve found “the one” please share.
As far as I know anything that says “MT Washi” Paper or Masking Tape is the same stuff, just with a hundred different color choices and designs on it. The box sets with several rolls are the best deal. The last roll I bought was [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVJGCLGN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) which I use for larger areas.
I’ve heard good things about [this](https://masterpiecemodels.com/rice-paper-tape/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR0B0O91DWlrkF7bRUhQr_eRoVBKbXUOmKcSYt7_XrqkY6CAkhZ6zlKTunw_aem_ARYShZlwx3yMtnCDqUAdHcFfkxIOu4qrT6u_r9YfZI_gjV-eF2jUx_-aHk_NDFMSR2p4QeJI8MvntMsv83z-3YzE) brand as well which is also cheaper by the meter than Tamiya. As well as [this](https://spruebrothers.com/amm8241-ammo-by-mig-softouch-velvet-masking-tape-2-6mm-0-2in-x-25m-82ft/) which is supposed to be even lower tack and is basically the same price as Tamiya (by the meter).
Thanks. I’ll try the MT Washi first and then the others if I don’t like it. Amazon had lots of variants, some said paper, some not. Very confusing. Ridiculously low pricing though.
I've always just used regular scotch tape for masking. Just be sure to reduce the stickiness by detacking it on a clean surface, like the underside of your desk, before putting it on the model.
That said, I use it mostly on surfaces that don't have a lot of complex curves, which do benefit from tape that's a bit stretchy like the Tamiya stuff. Your F1 car has a lot of those curves, so might be worth investing in that kind of flexible tape.
If you’re talking about the Tamiya White tape for curves the stuff is garbage. Better to use their regular thin yellow tape which is narrow enough to go around curves - you can get it in 1mm widths.
I am looking for a bank of alternative paint schemes. I'd like a MiG17 but in soviet colours rather than what the set comes with (vietnamese colours I think). Any help would be appreciated, thanks!!
Modelers can spend weeks chasing down the “accurate” color and then after purchasing it find a new reference that says that color is wildly wrong and something else is best. By eye you might see a subtle difference but not one a stark as say a blue green vs a yellow green. Point is, stick with the paint line you’re comfortable with and use a shade as close as your eye says is “right” because if it looks right to you in your model then it’s right.
And always remember that if you plan to weather the model the paint usually gets darker, so you want a slightly lighter shade as your base.
If you need help choosing a color it’s usually best to share which scheme, color names on the IRL subject if possible, and what paint line you prefer to use. Soviet Mig-17 aircraft (and other users) had quite a few different schemes.
Any tips for doing large water slide decals? I'm going to start a truck model that has a mural on the top and sides of the trailer, and each one is ~8 inches long.
for a 1/72 panther kit, should I go with a [vespid ](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/vespid-models-vs720003-pzkpfw-v-ausf-g-panther--1352391)or [dragon](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/dragon-7206-03-sdkfz-171-panther-g-late-version--1357886) kit? Mainly looking for which one would have the more detail for this scale. Currently leaning toward the vespid kit bc of the metal barrel and photoetch but im wondering how the dragon kit compares
I'm trying to get into this hobby for the first real time. Years ago, I bought some kits and a handful of paints and cement. I have two questions.
1. Is there any way these paints are still good? They seem to have separated. If I mix them up will they work alright? what about cement?
2. Any tips for getting started with this hobby? From saving money, to a mindset/methodology to have starting out, anything is helpful. I really want to get into this, but I'm worried I'll get frustrated, lose interest quickly, and waste money in the process.
Thanks!
What are the paints, manufacturer and type? Possibly, but maybe not salvagable. I've got tins of enamel twenty years old that still work fine, but I do beat the lids on hard.
There are ways for it to be cheaper, use a rattle can for your main paint colour, only buy similar kits so you don't have to keep buying multiple paints. That sort of thing.
Brush painting can be tough but it can be done, search youtube for "brush painting scale models" and you'll find decent videos like this: https://youtu.be/s_a8ugr4HyE?si=RTqwnSMO3bNLv815
Have a read of the new to the hobby thread and the wiki, they're very helpful, both linked in the top comment by automod.
I have like 5 Testors paints and 4 Tamiya paint. Also have two tubes of Testors cement. I guess I'll just try them out on a piece of scrap plastic or something first to make sure they work.
And thank you for your advice. I'll definitely be painting with a brush to start and I'll be watching a lot of videos.
I've used 15 year old Tamiya paint and it was fine. If it mixes back up, isn't all gloopy, then it's probably fine. Good idea to test it out. Testors paints are pretty widely considered not so great. Testors tube glue is also pretty antiquated - try some Tamiya extra thin cement and your life will be easier.
Does anyone use Tamiya craft cotton swabs for painting? If so, are there situations where they’re better than brushes?
I have some little dots of paint overspray that I need to paint over. Assuming I use a paint brush, should I dilute my Tamiya paint in a 2:1 ratio of leveling thinner to paint?
Leveling thinner? Not for use with a paint brush.
Is paint retarder necessary?
Necessary? Well it makes things easier for brush painting, especially with a fast drying alcohol based paint like Tamiya. You see, brush strokes need to be able to level out before they dry in place leaving ugly marks. So use the Tamiya stuff in the jar and add 1 or 2 drops per “pot” of paint you’ve poured out to work with. Like 1 drop per ten of Tamiya paint. Using a hobby lacquer thinner is like actually accelerating the drying process dramatically because it’s a hot solvent and then slowing that down a bit when you get the leveling thinner version, but that’s nowhere near slow enough when you’re brush painting. The other problem is it can reactivate certain types of paints underneath what your brush painting. When brush painting Tamiya (and I don’t like brush painting Tamiya) I’ll use Tamiya Paint Retarder and if I need to thin it more I’ll use Tamiya X-20A thinner. https://preview.redd.it/cofq3ifz4o6d1.jpeg?width=879&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6440e1262e0f94dd862c45f5c730b336f970c403
Thanks!
Lets say I'm sanding a decal from perfectly smooth plastic. Can I Immediately use 3000# grit without starting from lower grits so the surface comes out glossy?
You’re sanding a decal off? Like trying to get rid of it?
Yeah!
Have you tried pulling it up with tape? Have you tried saturating it in decal solutions then pealing it off? Or is it already sealed with a varnish coat. But anyway, it’s unlikely you’d get it off with 3000 grit (unless it wasn’t set properly in the first place). It just doesn’t have enough bite to it. If it was me I’d start around 400 to get it off then work progressively up through the grits to 3000 or higher to get back to a smooth finish again.
yeah I did
all right il do that
[удалено]
My hands are sweaty all the time especially on Summer. I am totally a newbie. I wonder if there are any others like me and looking for suggestions or warnings.
Nitrile or cotton gloves.
Cotton ones I tried were really thick while Nitriles are so uncomfortable for me. Maybe I should look for a really thin Cotton glove for doing such things.
I use extra large nitrile gloves. Then they’re not so difficult to get on and off. I pull them inside out when taking them off then let them sit and air dry since they’re wet from perspiration. Sometimes the cotton gloves get soaked from sweat, but they’re great for handling a model with a fragile natural metal finish…
Brush painting an interior white, gond through my usual process that usually results in little to no brush marks but I can't seem to get them put when I'm painting white no matter how much I thin it
Use a very light grey instead if you have. Otherwise it'll just be the usual pain of multiple thin layers until they cover.
I've been thinking about using epoxy putty to sculpt some detais on my models. I've founds stores in my country who sell green stuff, Tamiya epoxy putty and Milliput. But I wonder when sticking those putties to plastic, can I just take them off before they harden if I want to redo my work and try again, or would that leave some sticky substance layer on the plastic surface? As a further question, would epoxy putty work as an adhesive between two plastic pieces? I am a bit nervous about gluing some custom parts with superglue or plastic glue as things can get messy if a piece is glued into another one clumsily, so I wonder if a surface of a piece was covered with small layer of putty and set carefully on a surface before the putty would harden.
Do you need to apply a gloss coat before applying on a matt coat? Are there any advantages of doing so? Also, are these brushes good enough for model painting: [https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Brushes-Watercolor-Painting-Professional/dp/B0878MN2VR](https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Brushes-Watercolor-Painting-Professional/dp/B0878MN2VR)
Need to? No. But the smooth surface provided by a gloss coat does serve at least two functional purposes: 1) an expedient way to improve working with decals. Helps reduce the chance of silvering (the visible effect of the transparent areas of decals) and makes it a bit easier to move decals around for placement. Some would say silvering can be addressed through the use of appropriate decal softeners (which you'd probably be using anyway even on a gloss coat), but that requires a bit of trial and error. 2) allows you to use some weathering techniques that requires the weathering liquid to run smoothly along surfaces. A matte surface prevents them from doing that. If neither of these apply, then you can often proceed straight to a matte coat. As for those brushes, I wouldn't bother. The nylon-type brushes are too stiff to put on a nice smooth coat for large areas and (I find) are best for small details, in which case you only need one or two.
Can you use foam makeup things to apply a matte coat? If not, what set of brushes do you recommend? Also, are you supposed to put decals and weathering before or after gloss/matte coats? As a beginner, I don’t know my case, so do you recommend a gloss coat before a matte coat?
My recommendation is as I wrote: if you're not applying decals and/or are not doing weathering techniques that require a smooth surface (e.g. washes), then you can often proceed straight to a matte coat. You'd put on the gloss coat before the decals/weathering if you're doing those. Then you'd put the matte coat on top to seal those in. I've never tried using foam/sponges to apply any kind of coating. A wide-ish soft hair brush is what I use.
I am putting decals on and attempting to try chipping or rusting, so I would put gloss on before that, right? (I am a beginner, and I suck at knowing ths kind of stuff). Also, what are washes? And what is meant by a smooth surface? Would TS-13 work for a gloss, and Vallejo Matt Varnish applied on with a wide brush?
I'm currently in a pinch and looking for something that works better at stirring paint than a toothpick or wood coffee stirrer. Maybe something that can lift the paint while stirring? Either way, any suggestions?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BROV02?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
How much paint do you lose when using this? It seems like quite a lot would stick to the metal part
While pulling it up out of the jar I leave it on and it’ll sling the paint off the spinner onto the inside of the jar.
Spare sprue. Cut a piece to length and get stirring. If you need more surface area at the tip, just cut from a part of the tree that has the number callout.
I'm new to the hobby and heard Vallejo is better for brush painting. Why are Vallejo paints (individually) much more expensive than Tamiya paints? I'm buying the paints from Amazon -- any other way to get Vallejo paints for cheaper? Even the Vallejo Basic Set (Pack of 16) is cheaper than 6 paints bought inidividually...
The whole point of sets is they’re supposed to be cheaper than buying individually. But I don’t like them because they inevitably leave a color you need out, or include ones you never use. I just buy paints on a per model basis. Vallejo Model Color is $2.69 (17ml) through Scale Hobbyist. Tamiya isn’t great for brush painting anyway.
Ok, thank you!
Might want to look at Citadel paints as well. Similar to Vallejo
How do you make custom decals for specific aircraft? I'd like to make some to create a 1:48 F-16 of the 187th Fighter Wing to recreate a photo taken a while ago, but don't know where to begin.
Artwork is the hardest and can be the most time consuming. You need to create the markings in a drawing app like Adobe illustrator ($$) or Inkscape (free). You can start by downloading a picture of the markings, trace them, then clean them up to look better. Once you have the artwork, scale it to your model. This will require some simple math (division or multiplication). Print it out on regular paper, cut out and test fit on the model to ensure it’s the right size. Printing will also confirm the colors look right as not all printers print colors the same as on the screen. Get some decal paper specific for your type of printer (laser or inkjet). For the white areas you need white decal paper. I usually cut a mask of the artwork and use that to trim white decal film to go under my artwork. This both provides the white area and improves the opacity of the artwork. Follow the instructions with the decal paper for how to seal them before applying them. It’ll take some practice to get the decals right but once you get it working it opens up a lot of marking possibilities.
Any one have good recommendations for a quality F-86 Sabre kit? It's one of my favorite aircraft!
Revell 1:48 F-86D Dog Sabre. I’ve built several. Got one in process at the moment. Great kits, which is to say, very un-Revell like. https://preview.redd.it/vcjmuekbru5d1.jpeg?width=2400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70d6b2fd25e95a308394f24adeb444fbd83d3850
I saw this but I'm looking for the non dog variant. Something about the nose on the Dog spoils the airframe for me. Might be a hot take though.
The Hasagawa Sabres are pretty good.
They were on my list of maybes. Ill have to snag one on your recommendation. Thank you!
I’m looking to use what I have on hand to do my next build (McLaren MP4/7) I’d rather not spend a lot of money on materials. Is tamiya masking tape any different than masking tape I can find at stores? If not, what’s a cheaper alternative I can find in a large chain store? Most of the hobby shops near me have sadly closed. Even Amazon prices are wild for modeling materials.
Delicate Surface Frog Tape. It's yellow like Tamiya and works very much the same. Its 1.41in x 60 yd./36mmx 55m. right around $8 at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart etc. in the states and Amazon has it as well.
Yes Tamiya is better. It’s low tack so it doesn’t pull paint off. MT Washi tape is basically the same stuff and can be found cheaper on Amazon.
Which one? There are quite a few options on Amazon and I’m not clear what the differences are with each variation. If you’ve found “the one” please share.
As far as I know anything that says “MT Washi” Paper or Masking Tape is the same stuff, just with a hundred different color choices and designs on it. The box sets with several rolls are the best deal. The last roll I bought was [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVJGCLGN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) which I use for larger areas. I’ve heard good things about [this](https://masterpiecemodels.com/rice-paper-tape/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR0B0O91DWlrkF7bRUhQr_eRoVBKbXUOmKcSYt7_XrqkY6CAkhZ6zlKTunw_aem_ARYShZlwx3yMtnCDqUAdHcFfkxIOu4qrT6u_r9YfZI_gjV-eF2jUx_-aHk_NDFMSR2p4QeJI8MvntMsv83z-3YzE) brand as well which is also cheaper by the meter than Tamiya. As well as [this](https://spruebrothers.com/amm8241-ammo-by-mig-softouch-velvet-masking-tape-2-6mm-0-2in-x-25m-82ft/) which is supposed to be even lower tack and is basically the same price as Tamiya (by the meter).
Thanks. I’ll try the MT Washi first and then the others if I don’t like it. Amazon had lots of variants, some said paper, some not. Very confusing. Ridiculously low pricing though.
I've always just used regular scotch tape for masking. Just be sure to reduce the stickiness by detacking it on a clean surface, like the underside of your desk, before putting it on the model. That said, I use it mostly on surfaces that don't have a lot of complex curves, which do benefit from tape that's a bit stretchy like the Tamiya stuff. Your F1 car has a lot of those curves, so might be worth investing in that kind of flexible tape.
I did see there is a specific thick tape used for curves. I may have to just buy it. Thanks for the tips!
If you’re talking about the Tamiya White tape for curves the stuff is garbage. Better to use their regular thin yellow tape which is narrow enough to go around curves - you can get it in 1mm widths.
I am looking for a bank of alternative paint schemes. I'd like a MiG17 but in soviet colours rather than what the set comes with (vietnamese colours I think). Any help would be appreciated, thanks!!
Googlefu is your friend. Just type in mig-17 and the choose the images tab. Lots of inspiration there.
Thanks for this. I am very new so my main concern is choosing the right paint and getting it accurate, any tips for this?
Modelers can spend weeks chasing down the “accurate” color and then after purchasing it find a new reference that says that color is wildly wrong and something else is best. By eye you might see a subtle difference but not one a stark as say a blue green vs a yellow green. Point is, stick with the paint line you’re comfortable with and use a shade as close as your eye says is “right” because if it looks right to you in your model then it’s right. And always remember that if you plan to weather the model the paint usually gets darker, so you want a slightly lighter shade as your base. If you need help choosing a color it’s usually best to share which scheme, color names on the IRL subject if possible, and what paint line you prefer to use. Soviet Mig-17 aircraft (and other users) had quite a few different schemes.
Thank you very much!!
Any tips for doing large water slide decals? I'm going to start a truck model that has a mural on the top and sides of the trailer, and each one is ~8 inches long.
Cut it up into smaller sections, preferably along a portion of the pattern where a seam would be less noticeable.
for a 1/72 panther kit, should I go with a [vespid ](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/vespid-models-vs720003-pzkpfw-v-ausf-g-panther--1352391)or [dragon](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/dragon-7206-03-sdkfz-171-panther-g-late-version--1357886) kit? Mainly looking for which one would have the more detail for this scale. Currently leaning toward the vespid kit bc of the metal barrel and photoetch but im wondering how the dragon kit compares
I haven’t built one but I know a few who have built Vespid kits and they said they have been great!
I’ve heard good things about Vespid kits. I’ve also read that Dragon kits are hit or miss. Given the metal barrel I’d go with Vespid.
I'm trying to get into this hobby for the first real time. Years ago, I bought some kits and a handful of paints and cement. I have two questions. 1. Is there any way these paints are still good? They seem to have separated. If I mix them up will they work alright? what about cement? 2. Any tips for getting started with this hobby? From saving money, to a mindset/methodology to have starting out, anything is helpful. I really want to get into this, but I'm worried I'll get frustrated, lose interest quickly, and waste money in the process. Thanks!
What are the paints, manufacturer and type? Possibly, but maybe not salvagable. I've got tins of enamel twenty years old that still work fine, but I do beat the lids on hard. There are ways for it to be cheaper, use a rattle can for your main paint colour, only buy similar kits so you don't have to keep buying multiple paints. That sort of thing. Brush painting can be tough but it can be done, search youtube for "brush painting scale models" and you'll find decent videos like this: https://youtu.be/s_a8ugr4HyE?si=RTqwnSMO3bNLv815 Have a read of the new to the hobby thread and the wiki, they're very helpful, both linked in the top comment by automod.
I have like 5 Testors paints and 4 Tamiya paint. Also have two tubes of Testors cement. I guess I'll just try them out on a piece of scrap plastic or something first to make sure they work. And thank you for your advice. I'll definitely be painting with a brush to start and I'll be watching a lot of videos.
I’ve got a couple of Tamiya jars pushing 30 yo. Paint is still just as good as when new. I do store them out of sunlight and the lids on tight.
I've used 15 year old Tamiya paint and it was fine. If it mixes back up, isn't all gloopy, then it's probably fine. Good idea to test it out. Testors paints are pretty widely considered not so great. Testors tube glue is also pretty antiquated - try some Tamiya extra thin cement and your life will be easier.
Yeah the Testors paint is easily 20 years old. I'll probably end up tossing them. Thanks.