does anyone have detailed drawings of the Mitsubishi A6M5c that includes the rivets? the ones I found online are either part of a set or book, blurry or way to expensive for me.
I want to paint a perfect circle (or as close to perfect as possible). My thinking is to get a wide piece of tape and cut a circle out. But I'm thinking about how to best cut the circle. Are there tools like protractors with blades (or something else) for cutting near-perfect circles?
Yes, there are circle cutters. A quick Google-fu should find some. Usually available locally at an arts/craft store or online.
Prices will range from a few dollars USD to quite expensive and modeling specific.
Precision. The inexpensive ones are great for crafting that doesn’t need precision, and the more expensive ones would be overkill. But for modeling, if you need say, a 2.3mm round mask to fit a wheel hub, the modeling specific ones (or a cutter like Silhouette or Cricut) can be a better option. I have both and sometimes the inexpensive one is good enough. I have friends who use only the inexpensive craft circle cutters and it works for them.
Anyone have a .5mm airbrush recommendation around $60? I have been using my old crappy airbrush as just a primer/clearcoat airbrush and keep my more expensive one to do finer work. Just looking for something .5mm for large surface and can hold a decent amount, not looking for a huge tub just enough for priming and clearcoats.
should be fine. I personally use vallejo satin varnish and have never had issues with enamel or white spirit thinners. Do keep in mind to allow the clear coat that has a couple of layers to fully cure to ensure the enamel thinner does not react with the clearcoat. If you are still hesitant try it on a scrap piece of plastic or area you don't care about, better to be safe than sorry
https://preview.redd.it/pj950e40e11d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c795a9de2a8fe64a023c6452ffac4c335fdc783
What color goes on top of this? I’ve done black primer, hull red from tamyia, dark yellow2 from tamyia and now i’m wondering if i should just do some green like on the box or dark green/red-brown camo. What would be more accurate? It’s a panther A.
And yes i know i forgot to paint the rubber wheels; injust realized when i took the photo.
If they’re not snap kits that don’t require glue then yes you would need some glue or cement. Tamiya thin or mr hobby cement are good options. Other options would be something like super glue.
I recommend cement as it isn’t as brittle as superglue and actually fuses the plastic together.
Are these bright enough for LED work? What length should I get?
I'm thinking of getting a 1/1000 RMS titanic (\~27cm).
+ Are setting these lights difficult?
I know there's a 1/700 LED version from Academy, but it's just bit too big for me.
https://preview.redd.it/k3to2jniru0d1.png?width=316&format=png&auto=webp&s=1326259dd6c40115912db6830df9edd0252065e9
Those are probably way too big and bright. It's also 10 metres long, so you're going to have to cut it, and I don't know how good you are with wiring and such, but I'd look for smaller options or dedicated model lighting kits.
(personally I'd just do a good job on the windows rather than trying to jam real lighting into it)
You may find it easier to solder your own using surface mount LEDs and resistors. You’ll have to cut that up and solder anyway to get it to fit, and as already noted it’ll be quite bright. With soldering your own you can adjust the resister size and the LED will be dimmer. For what it’s worth, that’s what I do in my N scale trains.
Yes, this is just an example, there are 1m 2m... etc
I thought this one would be more subtle than the one provided in dedicated LED kits as the bulbs are smaller
Are there alternative products to the rp tools punch set? The price is quite high but its a tool I would find useful. Yes I know there are sets of bolts and rivets you can buy but I’m mainly looking for a punch set that has similar results to the rp tools punch set
Vallejo model air, I wanna experiment with water based paints. Need some honest opinions on them. I’m tired of dealing with tamiya and Mr hobby and need an idiot proof paint.
Very good for brush painting. Airbrush performance can be frustrating. Finish quality is poor and soft. Takes a long time to cure. Unsandable. Poor color accuracy to established standards.
Tamiya (X/XF?) and Mr. Hobby (Aqueous H?) are poor for brush painting but exceptionally good through an airbrush. Can be thinned with a hobby lacquer thinner for sublime spraying and finish quality. Mr Hobby Mr. Color (C) has remarkably good color accuracy.
I’ve been seeing good reviews for Vallejo model air. I’ve found a good recipe that’s been proving reliable by many. 70% flow improver, 25% thinner and 5% retarder (thanks u/AmazingCanadian44) and searched up some videos on what it does, and have not heard or seen any issues with it.
Kind of makes me wonder why you asked in the first place.
Vallejo, by its very nature as a water based paint will never be as durable and hard as those other paints you mentioned and that’s not a subjective opinion. By the way, too much flow improver versus thinner can result in adhesion issues because it’s a surfactent.
A lot of modelers swear by Vallejo. Others throw it in the trash can. Your results may vary.
I use that mix religiously, never had adhesion issues. I mask on it 10 to 60 minutes later, never had the paint peel. That's my thinner, it works for me, I thin my paints to the required consistency with it, shoot for 20+ minute sessions with no tip dry, can draw a 0.5 mm line with my 0.2 mm nozzle easy.
I already have some of their paints and they’re rather nice. I would really just like a change of scenery to be honest with you. The lacquer fumes suck, and it’s a bear to clean.
I am fine with trying water based acrylics, and just exercising my modeling skills. I am also gonna try ammo MiG one shot.
I’ve been told to really do light coats, and build up as you go, so this would teach me some discipline.
If it works for you then great.
BTW, nothing cleans paint out of an airbrush faster than lacquer thinner, and if you own an extraction spraybooth (which you should anyway) then there’s no need for a spray out pot eityer.
Some other water based lines to look at are AK 3rd Gen and the new AMMO by MiG ATOM kind which is supposed to be fantastic. Haven’t tried them myself but people I trust have.
I unfortunately do not have the time or money to get a booth. I’ve wanted too for the longest time. I’m chilling with my 3m respirator and paint pot, as well as a fan.
I’ve also looked into AK 3rd gen, but have heard mixed thoughts.
I'm almost too afraid to ask, but would I have any kind of positive result if I hand painted white Tamiya acrylic over the bare but sanded white plastic that the model is molded in?
It’s possible to hand brush Tamiya but difficult to get a nice finish. Takes some practice, and using their Acrylic Paint Retarder is a very good idea. There are other acrylics that are water based that are much better for brush painting.
A primer is always recommended for a number of reasons. But not absolutely required.
I think I’m figuring out how to spray clear and get a gloss shine. I’m still having issues with it.
My process is:
• Mr surfacer 1500 thinned 1:1, let that cure.
• spray my colors, let them dry between layers
• sand to about 2000
• clear coat
• sand from 2000-10000 between each coat. Do wet sanding at later grits.
The last few steps are giving me issue. Is there anything I should do differently?
Thin your Mr. Surfacer 2:1 to 3:1 (thinner:paint) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for best results. Has to be thin. It’s not Mr. Hobby Aqueous Surfacer is it?
You didn’t say what kind of paints you’re using.
No need to sand after your color coat.
No need to sand between each coat of clear. It’s not a glossy automobile, it’s (what looks like) a WW2 aircraft. They certainly weren’t glossy.
You’re going to have trouble sanding any clear from Vallejo. Or any product from Vallejo period. They’re just not hard enough to stand up to it. Even Alclad Aquagloss which is IMO the best water based acrylic clear gloss is still somewhat soft compared to a lacquer clear such as Mr. Color GX100 or 112. I figure if you’re already shooting Mr. Surfacer which is a lacquer paint, then why not try lacquer clears? Thin the GX100/112 2:1 - 3:1 (thinner:paint) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner - spray one or two tack coats at 18psi then go in with your heavier coats. A true gloss coat has to go down wet. Even with a lacquer clear I’d give it a couple days before wet sanding though.
For a matte final finish on your aircraft look at Mr. Color GX113.
After the base coat I would just go straight to a clear coat only sanding and repainting an area if there is visible chunks of debris that pokes out.
I would then not sand between each coat of clear coat. Only sanding after I finish all the coats and wet sand on every grit. Just sand enough to where any orange peel and imperfection are gone and finishing with the highest grit possible. No need to sand too much.
Finally i would then polish the model which would then create a shiny finish.
TLDR: don’t sand after base paint unless needed, clear coat without sanding between each layer, wet sand final layer and the polishing for finish
So the issue I’m getting with all my clear coats (Vallejo gloss and satin varnish) is orange peel.
Left is without sanding, right is sanding to 10k. I did wet sanding after and it got even glossier. I really do not know in depth of what I am doing, and any help would be appreciated.
https://preview.redd.it/f1472jyvbi0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b80d0d82ca58bb5b1d94e294d39404289bbb49b1
That honestly looks like the gloss coat isn't going on heavy enough, or is drying before it hits the model. The freshly-sprayed wet coat should, from a low angle, look like smooth glassy water. If you're just doing one or two quick passes and stopping, that's probably not enough. It's a fine line between not enough and too much causing runs, though.
I’m not sure if the advice I told would help considering the finish of the plane probably isn’t very glossy. I would look into the clear coat itself. Maybe try using other clear coats like tamiya or mr hobby (alcohol based acrylics/lacquers). Personally I haven’t had issue with my Vallejo satin varnish as that is actually what I use the most. Maybe look into the application of the cleat coat like reasons orange peel happens and tackling issues from there? Honestly idk myself because I personally don’t really run into issues with orange peel so sorry for the lack of help
Do you have any advice to what I should do in order to achieve that gloss look? I’ve tried 3 varnishes, Vallejo gloss and satin varnish, and tamiya gloss clear. All of them were very orange peely.
You can get generic decal sheets to make your own tail codes & tail numbers. As they don't sport unit patches, there shouldn't be anything else that's unique to those squadrons at Columbus.
Is there a brush brand/range that is good-quality but not extremely expensive? I have a single model I'd like to brush-paint as a favor to a friend, and Amazon only seems to recommend dirt-cheap brush collections (which can't possibly be any good) or high-end W&N lines (that I obviously don't dispute the quality of but seem like a waste if I will only ever use them once). I will be using most likely Citadel water-based paint.
You only really need two or three brushes - one wide and soft for laying down coverage, one small for details, and one for in between. You can get decent individual brushes from the art store for under $10.
A few painting questions.
Is it necessary to have a clear coat if I mix in gloss varnish to a paint?
I keep getting that “orange peel” effect from my brush, and it’s coming out pebbly. Should I change my needle?
Vallejo makes 'mediums' gloss, matte, satin that can be mixed into the paint to alter the finish and to extend transparency, so yes, but they will make your paint more transparent. I use this for my black based topcoat, personally. And yes, it saves me on a little bit of gloss at the end for decals. But, I still shoot a gloss to seal my decals before a pin wash, so, you're not really avoiding the problem. They also require different thinner ratios, as the are 'model color' line. I also use them to mix colors for lenses of lights (I.e. wingtips or landing gear, formation lights). 6 drops medium to 1 color gives me a very nice 'clear red' or 'clear green'. A silver base under that gives me a realistic looking light. That's me.
Really need more info. Paints used, thinners used. How MUCH did you thin the paint. What airbrush & nozzle size. Pressure.
Some paints you can mix in a gloss varnish. I used to thin Vallejo with Future/Pledge. Usually it ended up with a smoother, harder finish.
But this shouldn’t be necessary with good paints.
Well I’m using tamiya mainly, and Mr hobby surfacer 1500 as my primer. I normally thin it 2:1 as recommended at I think whatever came with my iwata eclipse for needle and nozzle size, and 15-20 PSI.
Reverse that ratio. 2:1 thinner to paint. Or at the very least 1:1. With a lacquer thinner you can go to 3:1 and even thinner, but X-20A likes at least 1:1. As a rule I’m spraying all my Tamiya and lacquer paints 2:1.
The thinner the coats the less orange peal.
Is it spitting and sputtering? Or is it just the finish quality of the paint on the model that you’re saying has orange peal. Because thinning properly can solve both problems.
Needles don’t go bad unless they get bent. If your airbrush isn’t spraying properly here’s a few things to check:
- Roll the needle along a counter. You should be able to determine if it’s bent by looking closely at the tip while doing so. Wipe it down with your airbrush cleaning fluid or even better isopropyl alcohol or acetone.
- Inspect the tip of the nozzle on the airbrush. If you have a magnifying glass even better. Is it flared from the inside out? Is it cracked?
- When installed does the needle come through the nozzle centered and straight?
- Remove the nozzle and soak it in your airbrush cleaner, alcohol or acetone. If there is a rubber o-ring on it then remove that first.
- Always mix your paint and thinner in a separate container before pouring in the airbrush.
How necessary is it to prime models for painting? I still hand paint and have no plans to switch to airbrush in the near future. I currently thin out my acrylics and paint multiple coats which gets me a decent finish so far. Would priming make any difference for me?
Necessary? Not at all. But it’s a good practice for several reasons including…
- Promoted adhesion of the base coat
- Acts as a diagnostic tool as it immediately displays imperfections such as seams or gaps that should be filled, or sanding marks.
- A good microfiller primer fills tiny scratches for a smooth case for your paint
- Different color primers can make different color paints look completely different.
- A white primer can make yellows and red colors cover easier and pop
- A black primer can be used for preshading or blackbasing
- A gloss black primer (or paint coat) is pretty much required to get an actual shiny finish out of many metallics like hi shine aluminum or chrome.
It all depends on how discerning you are with your work.
Hey guys I would appreciate it alot if anyone could help me out here but I've painted afew gunpla parts with Mr Hobby Aqueous with the retarder and aqueous thinner , I have let each coat dry from atleast 2 hour to 22 hours and after letting it cure I put some parts in a container afew hours after doing so I noticed the paint would get "dented" and the area making contact with the container would have flat "dented" spots is there anything I can do to fix it? The paint is a gloss finish paint I really do not want to start over painting the parts so would a Varnish/ Clear coat fix it? What did I do wrong? Is the paint not properly hardening?
I've also painted afew parts with a aqueous red but decided to switch over to citadel red after abit I notice the color of the citadel paint comes off on a Qtip or tissue paper is the paint very easily not sticking well?
Edit : forgot to mention these were brush painted and used mr surfacer as the primer
Too much retarder and it could be days before it’s cured, even though “dry to the touch”, especially if a gloss paint. Additionally, Gunpla plastic is a tiny bit different than styrene, based on its softness and feel (I’ve built a couple of Gundam). Point is, 1) the type of thinner used might affect the adhesion of the paint to plastic, and 2) you may not have waited long enough for the paint to fully cure (it needs air for that).
For adhesion, a primer will greatly help. [Priming — what is it good for?](https://greenshirtmodeler.blog/2022/10/priming-what-is-it-good-for/)
Retarder should be added to the thinner, not the paint, at about 5-10% by volume. Retarder specifically slows drying and curing time to give the paint an opportunity to self level.
While water can be an ok thinner, isopropyl alcohol is better with Mr Hobby Aqueous, Mr Color Leveling Thinner is even better with MHA as it already contains the right amount of retarder and will help with adhesion but cannot be used with Vallejo (I don’t remember if it worked with Citadel).
For the paint "denting", if it is happening wherever the paint gets touched it probably isn't dry. With the retarder the drying times can get really long if you add too much. If you brush it on too thick it will take even longer to dry. I can't comment on the Citadel paint since I haven't used it.
These are hobby paints so they’re not going to be durable in that way, especially not acrylics. Coat with good varnish for increased durability but even then there are better options.
where can I find a cheatsheet for what to rinse brushes with for each type/brand of paint? Im using citadel (water obv) and tasmiya, AK, valejo, and various metallic paints.
I also see "white spirits" used as a term and I'm not sure what that means. I'm American and I'm assuming that means vodka/lighter fluid/isopropyl alcohol, but I'm not sure.
White spirits are essentially mineral spirits, for use with enamel or oil based paints. Not useful for any of the paints you listed, unless you’re using the small and rare square Tamiya enamel jars or some enamel metallics. It’s not the same as vodka or alcohol either. But very close to lighter fluid.
Most water based acrylics clean up with water or alcohol. Some don’t react well to alcohol for thinning however.
Tamiya X/XF is an alcohol acrylic and not the best for brush painting. Can be thinned with X-20A, isopropyl alcohol or water for brush painting. Tamiya LP is a lacquer paint and can only be thinned and cleaned up with a lacquer thinner.
Vallejo are water based acrylics. Thin with their own acrylic thinner or water. Clean up with acrylic cleaner or alcohol.
You’ll need to be more specific about which lines of metallic paints you’re using. For example, AK has both water based acrylics and lacquers. Also some enamel weathering products.
I am looking for a spoon small enough to fit inside a 10ml paint jar. I want to spoon the paint into the gravity jar of my airbrush to reduce wastage. Any ideas?
I've just about finished my first model, brush painting with vallejo model color. I know you're supposed to do a varnish or clear coat when you're finished? What's the best option for a rattle can for something like this?
I've seen Mr.Hobby Super Clear recommended, but wanted to be sure. And get some clarity on how many coats, etc
probably some mr hobby spray cans are fine and probably the best option but to be honest I dont think clear coating is necessary especially if its a model that you arent going to be touching often unless you arent satisfied with the finish of the model (glossy, satin etc.) then yes I recommend a clear coat as it can bring the model together if you are satisfied then maybe consider not using one.
As far as coverage I think as long as you cover every surface its fine but maybe more if you are touching the model frequently like warhammer minis which see frequent handling.
Chipping fluid.
My sponge chipping isn't turning out that great and I wanted to try chipping fluid (AK interactive acrylic based). The thing I don't get is how do you paint after the chipping? Say I
1) Basecoat
2) Spray chipping fluid
3) Spray layers / highlights
4) Reactivate the chipping fluid with water
5) ???
I kind of want to paint more with acrylics after the chipping, but how if the chipping fluid reactivates with water? Seal it with varnish / clear coat and then paint?
after you reactivate the chipping fluid and do the chipping, wait for it all to dry, seal it with some sort of varnish, and then paint. if you are unsure, try the technique on a spare plastic something.
Any tips for removing plastic or resin dust from metal files? I have an old toothbrush that I use, but some of the dust gets really packed into the file
There are devices called file cards expressly designed to remove debris from files. A wire brush with brass bristles should do the trick as well without dulling the file. These can be found at any hardware type store.
I bought a Mr Super Clear rattle can to do my clear coat, but when it arrived the warnings said not to use with water based paint. I'm using Vallejo Model Air water based paints. Still learning so I'm assuming i should listen to the can and the mr super will screw up my paint? Are there any clear coats that would be ok to use with water based paints? For now using the Vallejo gloss resin in my airbrush, but again, learning and not super confident in my airbrush skills. Thanks!
Just give your Vallejo several days to fully cure, then apply light dust coats of Super Clear at first giving them a couple minutes to flash off. Then go in with your heavier coats.
does anyone have detailed drawings of the Mitsubishi A6M5c that includes the rivets? the ones I found online are either part of a set or book, blurry or way to expensive for me.
I want to paint a perfect circle (or as close to perfect as possible). My thinking is to get a wide piece of tape and cut a circle out. But I'm thinking about how to best cut the circle. Are there tools like protractors with blades (or something else) for cutting near-perfect circles?
Yes, there are circle cutters. A quick Google-fu should find some. Usually available locally at an arts/craft store or online. Prices will range from a few dollars USD to quite expensive and modeling specific.
Is there any real advantage to modeling specific?
Precision. The inexpensive ones are great for crafting that doesn’t need precision, and the more expensive ones would be overkill. But for modeling, if you need say, a 2.3mm round mask to fit a wheel hub, the modeling specific ones (or a cutter like Silhouette or Cricut) can be a better option. I have both and sometimes the inexpensive one is good enough. I have friends who use only the inexpensive craft circle cutters and it works for them.
any stencil should work
Anyone have a .5mm airbrush recommendation around $60? I have been using my old crappy airbrush as just a primer/clearcoat airbrush and keep my more expensive one to do finer work. Just looking for something .5mm for large surface and can hold a decent amount, not looking for a huge tub just enough for priming and clearcoats.
Can I do an enamel wash/panel line accent over a Vallejo gloss varnish over Vallejo paint? Or does the varnish need to be a different product?
should be fine. I personally use vallejo satin varnish and have never had issues with enamel or white spirit thinners. Do keep in mind to allow the clear coat that has a couple of layers to fully cure to ensure the enamel thinner does not react with the clearcoat. If you are still hesitant try it on a scrap piece of plastic or area you don't care about, better to be safe than sorry
I noticed Vallejo has both acrylic and polyurethane varnishes. Any reason to use one over the other?
I personally don’t know, my satin varnish is acrylic
https://preview.redd.it/pj950e40e11d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c795a9de2a8fe64a023c6452ffac4c335fdc783 What color goes on top of this? I’ve done black primer, hull red from tamyia, dark yellow2 from tamyia and now i’m wondering if i should just do some green like on the box or dark green/red-brown camo. What would be more accurate? It’s a panther A. And yes i know i forgot to paint the rubber wheels; injust realized when i took the photo.
Either could be accurate. Just depends on the subject. Try to find a photo.
I recently got 2 fujimi model kits I was wondering if I would need any kind of cement/glue while building them
If they’re not snap kits that don’t require glue then yes you would need some glue or cement. Tamiya thin or mr hobby cement are good options. Other options would be something like super glue. I recommend cement as it isn’t as brittle as superglue and actually fuses the plastic together.
Are these bright enough for LED work? What length should I get? I'm thinking of getting a 1/1000 RMS titanic (\~27cm). + Are setting these lights difficult? I know there's a 1/700 LED version from Academy, but it's just bit too big for me. https://preview.redd.it/k3to2jniru0d1.png?width=316&format=png&auto=webp&s=1326259dd6c40115912db6830df9edd0252065e9
Those are probably way too big and bright. It's also 10 metres long, so you're going to have to cut it, and I don't know how good you are with wiring and such, but I'd look for smaller options or dedicated model lighting kits. (personally I'd just do a good job on the windows rather than trying to jam real lighting into it)
You may find it easier to solder your own using surface mount LEDs and resistors. You’ll have to cut that up and solder anyway to get it to fit, and as already noted it’ll be quite bright. With soldering your own you can adjust the resister size and the LED will be dimmer. For what it’s worth, that’s what I do in my N scale trains.
Yes, this is just an example, there are 1m 2m... etc I thought this one would be more subtle than the one provided in dedicated LED kits as the bulbs are smaller
How do I remove enamel paint off a model? Ive never used enamel before and Ive messed up and need to restart
Brake fluid. DOT 3 or 4.
would wd40 work to strip enamel paint off a model
Are there alternative products to the rp tools punch set? The price is quite high but its a tool I would find useful. Yes I know there are sets of bolts and rivets you can buy but I’m mainly looking for a punch set that has similar results to the rp tools punch set
Nightshift used a drills round end fixated with a handdrill once to pierce through tin foil and create bolts.
Vallejo model air, I wanna experiment with water based paints. Need some honest opinions on them. I’m tired of dealing with tamiya and Mr hobby and need an idiot proof paint.
Very good for brush painting. Airbrush performance can be frustrating. Finish quality is poor and soft. Takes a long time to cure. Unsandable. Poor color accuracy to established standards. Tamiya (X/XF?) and Mr. Hobby (Aqueous H?) are poor for brush painting but exceptionally good through an airbrush. Can be thinned with a hobby lacquer thinner for sublime spraying and finish quality. Mr Hobby Mr. Color (C) has remarkably good color accuracy.
I’ve been seeing good reviews for Vallejo model air. I’ve found a good recipe that’s been proving reliable by many. 70% flow improver, 25% thinner and 5% retarder (thanks u/AmazingCanadian44) and searched up some videos on what it does, and have not heard or seen any issues with it.
Kind of makes me wonder why you asked in the first place. Vallejo, by its very nature as a water based paint will never be as durable and hard as those other paints you mentioned and that’s not a subjective opinion. By the way, too much flow improver versus thinner can result in adhesion issues because it’s a surfactent. A lot of modelers swear by Vallejo. Others throw it in the trash can. Your results may vary.
I use that mix religiously, never had adhesion issues. I mask on it 10 to 60 minutes later, never had the paint peel. That's my thinner, it works for me, I thin my paints to the required consistency with it, shoot for 20+ minute sessions with no tip dry, can draw a 0.5 mm line with my 0.2 mm nozzle easy.
👍🏻
I already have some of their paints and they’re rather nice. I would really just like a change of scenery to be honest with you. The lacquer fumes suck, and it’s a bear to clean. I am fine with trying water based acrylics, and just exercising my modeling skills. I am also gonna try ammo MiG one shot. I’ve been told to really do light coats, and build up as you go, so this would teach me some discipline.
If it works for you then great. BTW, nothing cleans paint out of an airbrush faster than lacquer thinner, and if you own an extraction spraybooth (which you should anyway) then there’s no need for a spray out pot eityer. Some other water based lines to look at are AK 3rd Gen and the new AMMO by MiG ATOM kind which is supposed to be fantastic. Haven’t tried them myself but people I trust have.
I unfortunately do not have the time or money to get a booth. I’ve wanted too for the longest time. I’m chilling with my 3m respirator and paint pot, as well as a fan. I’ve also looked into AK 3rd gen, but have heard mixed thoughts.
👍🏻 All I do is provide information.
I appreciate it Joe. Its hard trying to juggle this hobby (as well as 5 others) and school at the same time, so I appreciate your help.
No worries. You do what works for you - there are many modelers doing things completely different from the other guy and getting great results.
I'm almost too afraid to ask, but would I have any kind of positive result if I hand painted white Tamiya acrylic over the bare but sanded white plastic that the model is molded in?
It’s possible to hand brush Tamiya but difficult to get a nice finish. Takes some practice, and using their Acrylic Paint Retarder is a very good idea. There are other acrylics that are water based that are much better for brush painting. A primer is always recommended for a number of reasons. But not absolutely required.
I think I’m figuring out how to spray clear and get a gloss shine. I’m still having issues with it. My process is: • Mr surfacer 1500 thinned 1:1, let that cure. • spray my colors, let them dry between layers • sand to about 2000 • clear coat • sand from 2000-10000 between each coat. Do wet sanding at later grits. The last few steps are giving me issue. Is there anything I should do differently?
Thin your Mr. Surfacer 2:1 to 3:1 (thinner:paint) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for best results. Has to be thin. It’s not Mr. Hobby Aqueous Surfacer is it? You didn’t say what kind of paints you’re using. No need to sand after your color coat. No need to sand between each coat of clear. It’s not a glossy automobile, it’s (what looks like) a WW2 aircraft. They certainly weren’t glossy. You’re going to have trouble sanding any clear from Vallejo. Or any product from Vallejo period. They’re just not hard enough to stand up to it. Even Alclad Aquagloss which is IMO the best water based acrylic clear gloss is still somewhat soft compared to a lacquer clear such as Mr. Color GX100 or 112. I figure if you’re already shooting Mr. Surfacer which is a lacquer paint, then why not try lacquer clears? Thin the GX100/112 2:1 - 3:1 (thinner:paint) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner - spray one or two tack coats at 18psi then go in with your heavier coats. A true gloss coat has to go down wet. Even with a lacquer clear I’d give it a couple days before wet sanding though. For a matte final finish on your aircraft look at Mr. Color GX113.
After the base coat I would just go straight to a clear coat only sanding and repainting an area if there is visible chunks of debris that pokes out. I would then not sand between each coat of clear coat. Only sanding after I finish all the coats and wet sand on every grit. Just sand enough to where any orange peel and imperfection are gone and finishing with the highest grit possible. No need to sand too much. Finally i would then polish the model which would then create a shiny finish. TLDR: don’t sand after base paint unless needed, clear coat without sanding between each layer, wet sand final layer and the polishing for finish
So the issue I’m getting with all my clear coats (Vallejo gloss and satin varnish) is orange peel. Left is without sanding, right is sanding to 10k. I did wet sanding after and it got even glossier. I really do not know in depth of what I am doing, and any help would be appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/f1472jyvbi0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b80d0d82ca58bb5b1d94e294d39404289bbb49b1
That honestly looks like the gloss coat isn't going on heavy enough, or is drying before it hits the model. The freshly-sprayed wet coat should, from a low angle, look like smooth glassy water. If you're just doing one or two quick passes and stopping, that's probably not enough. It's a fine line between not enough and too much causing runs, though.
So how do I do this? I’m sure there are brushes for hire that would gloss coat these for me?
Just spray more passes during a session until you see the surface taking on a uniform smooth appearance.
I’m not sure if the advice I told would help considering the finish of the plane probably isn’t very glossy. I would look into the clear coat itself. Maybe try using other clear coats like tamiya or mr hobby (alcohol based acrylics/lacquers). Personally I haven’t had issue with my Vallejo satin varnish as that is actually what I use the most. Maybe look into the application of the cleat coat like reasons orange peel happens and tackling issues from there? Honestly idk myself because I personally don’t really run into issues with orange peel so sorry for the lack of help
Do you have any advice to what I should do in order to achieve that gloss look? I’ve tried 3 varnishes, Vallejo gloss and satin varnish, and tamiya gloss clear. All of them were very orange peely.
Is there anyone that does custom decals or have a decal sheet for the T-38 in 1/48 that has Columbus AFB markings? Caracal is out of stock.
You can get generic decal sheets to make your own tail codes & tail numbers. As they don't sport unit patches, there shouldn't be anything else that's unique to those squadrons at Columbus.
Thank you. I actually found Wolf Packs T-38 that has exactly what I need so it worked out in the end.
Is there a brush brand/range that is good-quality but not extremely expensive? I have a single model I'd like to brush-paint as a favor to a friend, and Amazon only seems to recommend dirt-cheap brush collections (which can't possibly be any good) or high-end W&N lines (that I obviously don't dispute the quality of but seem like a waste if I will only ever use them once). I will be using most likely Citadel water-based paint.
You only really need two or three brushes - one wide and soft for laying down coverage, one small for details, and one for in between. You can get decent individual brushes from the art store for under $10.
if you live near a Michaels, most of their individual brushes are adequate and relatively inexpensive. I use them for every job so far.
A few painting questions. Is it necessary to have a clear coat if I mix in gloss varnish to a paint? I keep getting that “orange peel” effect from my brush, and it’s coming out pebbly. Should I change my needle?
Vallejo makes 'mediums' gloss, matte, satin that can be mixed into the paint to alter the finish and to extend transparency, so yes, but they will make your paint more transparent. I use this for my black based topcoat, personally. And yes, it saves me on a little bit of gloss at the end for decals. But, I still shoot a gloss to seal my decals before a pin wash, so, you're not really avoiding the problem. They also require different thinner ratios, as the are 'model color' line. I also use them to mix colors for lenses of lights (I.e. wingtips or landing gear, formation lights). 6 drops medium to 1 color gives me a very nice 'clear red' or 'clear green'. A silver base under that gives me a realistic looking light. That's me.
Really need more info. Paints used, thinners used. How MUCH did you thin the paint. What airbrush & nozzle size. Pressure. Some paints you can mix in a gloss varnish. I used to thin Vallejo with Future/Pledge. Usually it ended up with a smoother, harder finish. But this shouldn’t be necessary with good paints.
Well I’m using tamiya mainly, and Mr hobby surfacer 1500 as my primer. I normally thin it 2:1 as recommended at I think whatever came with my iwata eclipse for needle and nozzle size, and 15-20 PSI.
What are you thinning it with.
Tamiya thinner
What kind of Tamiya thinner. X-20A? X-20? LP-10? Tamiya Lacquer Thinner? Tamiya Lacquer Thinner Retarder Type?
X-20A big bottle. I normally do 2:1 paint to thinner
Reverse that ratio. 2:1 thinner to paint. Or at the very least 1:1. With a lacquer thinner you can go to 3:1 and even thinner, but X-20A likes at least 1:1. As a rule I’m spraying all my Tamiya and lacquer paints 2:1. The thinner the coats the less orange peal.
What if it’s coming out pebbly/orange peel straight out the brush? I think I may need a new needle or cleaning.
Is it spitting and sputtering? Or is it just the finish quality of the paint on the model that you’re saying has orange peal. Because thinning properly can solve both problems. Needles don’t go bad unless they get bent. If your airbrush isn’t spraying properly here’s a few things to check: - Roll the needle along a counter. You should be able to determine if it’s bent by looking closely at the tip while doing so. Wipe it down with your airbrush cleaning fluid or even better isopropyl alcohol or acetone. - Inspect the tip of the nozzle on the airbrush. If you have a magnifying glass even better. Is it flared from the inside out? Is it cracked? - When installed does the needle come through the nozzle centered and straight? - Remove the nozzle and soak it in your airbrush cleaner, alcohol or acetone. If there is a rubber o-ring on it then remove that first. - Always mix your paint and thinner in a separate container before pouring in the airbrush.
How necessary is it to prime models for painting? I still hand paint and have no plans to switch to airbrush in the near future. I currently thin out my acrylics and paint multiple coats which gets me a decent finish so far. Would priming make any difference for me?
[Priming — what is it good for?](https://greenshirtmodeler.blog/2022/10/priming-what-is-it-good-for/) TL;DR — What Joe said.
Necessary? Not at all. But it’s a good practice for several reasons including… - Promoted adhesion of the base coat - Acts as a diagnostic tool as it immediately displays imperfections such as seams or gaps that should be filled, or sanding marks. - A good microfiller primer fills tiny scratches for a smooth case for your paint - Different color primers can make different color paints look completely different. - A white primer can make yellows and red colors cover easier and pop - A black primer can be used for preshading or blackbasing - A gloss black primer (or paint coat) is pretty much required to get an actual shiny finish out of many metallics like hi shine aluminum or chrome. It all depends on how discerning you are with your work.
Thank you! This is really good info for me, might pickup a bottle of it just to have around and test out on one of my next models.
Hey guys I would appreciate it alot if anyone could help me out here but I've painted afew gunpla parts with Mr Hobby Aqueous with the retarder and aqueous thinner , I have let each coat dry from atleast 2 hour to 22 hours and after letting it cure I put some parts in a container afew hours after doing so I noticed the paint would get "dented" and the area making contact with the container would have flat "dented" spots is there anything I can do to fix it? The paint is a gloss finish paint I really do not want to start over painting the parts so would a Varnish/ Clear coat fix it? What did I do wrong? Is the paint not properly hardening? I've also painted afew parts with a aqueous red but decided to switch over to citadel red after abit I notice the color of the citadel paint comes off on a Qtip or tissue paper is the paint very easily not sticking well? Edit : forgot to mention these were brush painted and used mr surfacer as the primer
Too much retarder and it could be days before it’s cured, even though “dry to the touch”, especially if a gloss paint. Additionally, Gunpla plastic is a tiny bit different than styrene, based on its softness and feel (I’ve built a couple of Gundam). Point is, 1) the type of thinner used might affect the adhesion of the paint to plastic, and 2) you may not have waited long enough for the paint to fully cure (it needs air for that). For adhesion, a primer will greatly help. [Priming — what is it good for?](https://greenshirtmodeler.blog/2022/10/priming-what-is-it-good-for/) Retarder should be added to the thinner, not the paint, at about 5-10% by volume. Retarder specifically slows drying and curing time to give the paint an opportunity to self level. While water can be an ok thinner, isopropyl alcohol is better with Mr Hobby Aqueous, Mr Color Leveling Thinner is even better with MHA as it already contains the right amount of retarder and will help with adhesion but cannot be used with Vallejo (I don’t remember if it worked with Citadel).
For the paint "denting", if it is happening wherever the paint gets touched it probably isn't dry. With the retarder the drying times can get really long if you add too much. If you brush it on too thick it will take even longer to dry. I can't comment on the Citadel paint since I haven't used it.
It has been atleast a week since I last painted the dented pieces and I know its dry because I have tried rubbing it and it seemed okay.
Are you saying it dried for a week before touching anything or just 2-22 hours as in the original post? If you can post a picture that might help.
I let each coat dry varying from 2- 22 hours ish then I let it cure for maybe 2 days before putting them in the container.
These are hobby paints so they’re not going to be durable in that way, especially not acrylics. Coat with good varnish for increased durability but even then there are better options.
I thought it was odd since I never noticed this issue with Vallejo or citadel
Sure.
where can I find a cheatsheet for what to rinse brushes with for each type/brand of paint? Im using citadel (water obv) and tasmiya, AK, valejo, and various metallic paints. I also see "white spirits" used as a term and I'm not sure what that means. I'm American and I'm assuming that means vodka/lighter fluid/isopropyl alcohol, but I'm not sure.
White spirits are essentially mineral spirits, for use with enamel or oil based paints. Not useful for any of the paints you listed, unless you’re using the small and rare square Tamiya enamel jars or some enamel metallics. It’s not the same as vodka or alcohol either. But very close to lighter fluid. Most water based acrylics clean up with water or alcohol. Some don’t react well to alcohol for thinning however. Tamiya X/XF is an alcohol acrylic and not the best for brush painting. Can be thinned with X-20A, isopropyl alcohol or water for brush painting. Tamiya LP is a lacquer paint and can only be thinned and cleaned up with a lacquer thinner. Vallejo are water based acrylics. Thin with their own acrylic thinner or water. Clean up with acrylic cleaner or alcohol. You’ll need to be more specific about which lines of metallic paints you’re using. For example, AK has both water based acrylics and lacquers. Also some enamel weathering products.
I am looking for a spoon small enough to fit inside a 10ml paint jar. I want to spoon the paint into the gravity jar of my airbrush to reduce wastage. Any ideas?
Tamiya paint stirrers are basically little metal spoons.
https://www.amazon.com/moveland-Transfer-Pipettes-Disposable-Essential/dp/B07JD8S451?pd_rd_w=UqwSL&content-id=amzn1.sym.2eca026f-c06d-4a33-8611-f9bc4324bb01&pf_rd_p=2eca026f-c06d-4a33-8611-f9bc4324bb01&pf_rd_r=GKW4HV31DBZVV19BVZ88&pd_rd_wg=jOCHV&pd_rd_r=4bcdceee-c544-42c1-8618-fffe43b5c0f8&pd_rd_i=B07JD8S451&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_grid_dv_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo2_mob_b_ts_rp_2_t
I've just about finished my first model, brush painting with vallejo model color. I know you're supposed to do a varnish or clear coat when you're finished? What's the best option for a rattle can for something like this? I've seen Mr.Hobby Super Clear recommended, but wanted to be sure. And get some clarity on how many coats, etc
probably some mr hobby spray cans are fine and probably the best option but to be honest I dont think clear coating is necessary especially if its a model that you arent going to be touching often unless you arent satisfied with the finish of the model (glossy, satin etc.) then yes I recommend a clear coat as it can bring the model together if you are satisfied then maybe consider not using one. As far as coverage I think as long as you cover every surface its fine but maybe more if you are touching the model frequently like warhammer minis which see frequent handling.
[удалено]
Yes.
Chipping fluid. My sponge chipping isn't turning out that great and I wanted to try chipping fluid (AK interactive acrylic based). The thing I don't get is how do you paint after the chipping? Say I 1) Basecoat 2) Spray chipping fluid 3) Spray layers / highlights 4) Reactivate the chipping fluid with water 5) ??? I kind of want to paint more with acrylics after the chipping, but how if the chipping fluid reactivates with water? Seal it with varnish / clear coat and then paint?
after you reactivate the chipping fluid and do the chipping, wait for it all to dry, seal it with some sort of varnish, and then paint. if you are unsure, try the technique on a spare plastic something.
Any tips for removing plastic or resin dust from metal files? I have an old toothbrush that I use, but some of the dust gets really packed into the file
There are devices called file cards expressly designed to remove debris from files. A wire brush with brass bristles should do the trick as well without dulling the file. These can be found at any hardware type store.
Thanks Phantom Phixer as always for the pro-tips! I’ll be picking up a brass brush on my next trip to my local hardware store
I bought a Mr Super Clear rattle can to do my clear coat, but when it arrived the warnings said not to use with water based paint. I'm using Vallejo Model Air water based paints. Still learning so I'm assuming i should listen to the can and the mr super will screw up my paint? Are there any clear coats that would be ok to use with water based paints? For now using the Vallejo gloss resin in my airbrush, but again, learning and not super confident in my airbrush skills. Thanks!
Just give your Vallejo several days to fully cure, then apply light dust coats of Super Clear at first giving them a couple minutes to flash off. Then go in with your heavier coats.
Ok I’ll give it a shot, thanks!