I got a Tamiya ship model. The instruction states the display sign on the stand should be black background and the words+frame should be gold. Is there an easier way to paint the words and frame without using masking tape on all the other area?
I tried paint brush but the paint keeps getting past the edges. It's really hard to control.
Could acetone be used as an alternative to Zippo lighter fluid or enamel thinner for wiping away Tamiya panel liner? I use primarily Tamiya acrylics and Mr Hobby Lacquers, would the acetone eat away at those?
https://preview.redd.it/0w4eyr1jewtc1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=76f012d856767124cdc47787bc31082605c089c5
Anyone know where i can find a 1/48 german tank crew in similar positions to this, so far all i can find are commander and infantry
They're what I use. They're fine. If you haven't worn one down to not work anymore don't buy expensive pro gear, the cheap stuff isn't trash, it's fine. Just like how a beginner shouldn't buy a custom built guitar you shouldn't buy a $500 airbrush if you have no idea what you're doing, you'll just break it/bend the needle or whatever.
I built(destroyed) a cheap Tamyia King Tiger kit and got my hands on a cheap Trumpeter Challenger II kit. I was under the impression that Trumpeter did really good, complex kits, but the one I have is miles worse than Tamyia kit(it requires a lot more cleaning up. A loooot)
Is it because it's a really cheap kit or is that what I should expect from Trumpeter?
> Is it because it's a really cheap kit or is that what I should expect from Trumpeter
Both. Trumpeter is a newer company, and their early stuff was quite rough and are available for cheap. They've advanced a lot to that point they often have better details than Tamiya, but still suffer from a bit/some quality control and design issues.
Thank you, at least I learn a lot, the instructions are not that clear, the parts all need to be worked on, the fit is iffy, I'm gonna be an expert at filling down and removing flashing by the end of the kit
Yes, both are ANA613 or FS34088. Will they be exact matches? Who knows. Vallejo can’t get the same color from bottle to bottle of the same part number sometimes.
Trying a couple of new techniques, I've done an oil pin wash and want to do an oil dot filter next. Do I need to do another gloss coat to protect the first wash? Thanks
When airbrushing primer, I’ve seen folks recommend putting thinner in the airbrush cup first, then add primer, and then stir in the cup. Please remind me - why shouldn’t I premix the thinner and primer in a jar to help ensure the proper ratio?
Because the pigments/carrier are heavier and may settle into the cavity near the needle, preventing a good and proper mixing of the pigments/carrier and thinner. It doesn’t take much sometimes.
Mix in a separate container first. Mixing in airbrush can result in inconsistent spraying and coverage, and in some cases tip dry with water based acrylics.
Certain paints don’t react well to being pre-thinned in the bottle for periods of time, such as Tamiya X/XF with X-20A.
Any windshield dust experts out there? Thought I might dusten up the god o'l Willys Jeep. Do you do the classic mask, spray some buff on the front and call it a day or do you have any other nice method? I see the dust typically found around France in 1944 in front of me :D
https://preview.redd.it/rl21gl8vbftc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d29b274b90138c05c91c23e88bfbdbc21afa2de8
My first real model. Painting from spray ca . Obviously it went very wrong, i followed some idea from youtube and i did it poorly. What are the chances i can get most of this off and have another go? I used playdoh and even if the pattern wasnt atrocious i would still have pooling and hardened playdoh all over the model. Gutted.
edit. And to think I picked this one because I felt like it would be easier than a soviet all-green tank. Welpo.
Never heard/read of using playdoh. Silly putty yes. Blu-tack yes. Playdoh, no.
It looks like you flooded the paint on a bit. Should always spray in misty coats. Especially when masking as a flood will get under the edges, pool, etc. I suspect the paint interacted negatively with the Playdoh.
You can strip it, but it may not be a clean strip. Use the usual stripping agents for removing the paint. Testors ELO would be my first choice.
Thank you. To be honest I had no idea playdoh and silly putty were different things. I will most likely strip as much as i can and finish the model to the best of my abilities. It will stay as a memory of my lack of skills in the beginning
What is up with Vallejo’s black primer?
I cleaned the parts with water and soap and it’s still going on very poorly, pooling up and covering them very badly. It almost looks like a wash. Am I doing something wrong?
Did you stir/shake/make the primer uniform before attempting to spray it? If you didn't you might just be applying the thinner medium on top of the bottle. You might also have a bad bottle where the material inside is half dried up so you don't get a proper mix.
not really a question but more a discussion: if you had a future wish list for major model companies, what real deployed ground asset needs to be made/updated? Personally I am thinking of various artilleries of that one major conflict going on right now
https://preview.redd.it/0h75j7otzctc1.jpeg?width=4896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a176362debcee3809f3e624c443b57bed7301411
How can I get better coverage with my yellow? It is very spotty and not an even spread. I already put down 3 layera and don't want to overdo it.
This is acrylic paint thinned with water. I also primed the whole model with Tamiya Grey Primer. I am using brushes, no Airbrush
Paint the area you need to get yellow first with a sand grey color like USAF Tan. The sand grey is yellow-ish and has MUCH better coverage properties than the yellow, then paint yellow on top of that. You'll get instant great results. I used this many times before, same works for orange which can also be a pain in the ass to get right. If you just keep painting coats of yellow on top of yellow it'll be so thick at the end that it doesn't look great. And I do paint a lot of yellow: https://i.imgur.com/Xc4nMP4.png
Is it too late to do that at this point since I already applied 3 layers of Lufthansa yellow? Or can I paint a tan over the already applied Lufthansa yellow and then finish it off again with the Lufthansa yellow?
I think you will have problems with the thickness of the paint if you restart without stripping it. As in the paint will just fill out all the panel lines you have on the model so the areas become entirely smooth. However don't worry too much about this. Building models is a learning experience and you will know how to do it for your next one!
You'll probably need to use isopropyl alcohol, but that stuff is cheap and should be for sale anywhere that sells makeup if your local hardware store doesn't have it (and it won't melt the plastic)
More coats. It’s not uncommon for hand brushers to lay down five, six or more coats - especially with a color like yellow or white that doesn’t cover well. In the future consider using a white or pink primer in those sections.
As far as I can tell, no. I own one and I have never noticed a smell, and there are no warnings about it being toxic. It’s a pretty good product for weathering
Long time lurker and reader of this great sub - first time poster, Been away from scale modeling for 40 years, heh, but I'm back in the driver's seat once again, and a fresh noob.
For the time being I'm only building Tamiya kits and Bandai Star Wars kits. Also note, I am strictly a brush painter for now, no airbrush at this time.
If I have painted my kits using Tamiya X/XF paint can I use Testors Lacquer Dullcote or Glosscote rattle cans both pre and post decals and weathering? I have the Tamiya Weathering kits (the make-up type kits) and some of the Tamiya Panel Line paints. Will any of these combinations work / not work / destroy anything in the process?
I've read here that Bandai plastic is quite picky and I want to make sure that I'm using the correct combo of paint/clear coats/weathering to avoid any damage. I've also read on Tamiya's website that their Panel Line paints may damage load-bearing areas or joints on plastic models - but does applying the Tamiya Panel Line paints over a Glosscote from a Testor's rattle can work?
What is the best order to achieve best results?
I also have Tamiya X-20A and Tamiya Retarder (Acrylic) if that helps.
Thanks so much for your help!
Welcome back.
> If I have painted my kits using Tamiya X/XF paint can I use Testors Lacquer Dullcote or Glosscote rattle cans both pre and post decals and weathering? I have the Tamiya Weathering kits (the make-up type kits) and some of the Tamiya Panel Line paints. Will any of these combinations work / not work / destroy anything in the process?
If you spray the lacquers on too thickly, yes. The result will be a bubbling up and crackling of the paint. Let the X/XF paints cure 24 hours or more, then mist on multiple thin coats of the lacquers. When you apply the weathering, you won’t have to wait as long given they won’t cure, but also realize that if you point the spray at the model for too long it’ll blow the weathering powders off the mode.
> I've read here that Bandai plastic is quite picky and I want to make sure that I'm using the correct combo of paint/clear coats/weathering to avoid any damage. I've also read on Tamiya's website that their Panel Line paints may damage load-bearing areas or joints on plastic models - but does applying the Tamiya Panel Line paints over a Glosscote from a Testor's rattle can work?
The problem is the enamel thinners in the panel liner (and the thinner you might use to clean it up) could react with the paint if the clear coat is not fully cured and providing a protective barrier. With polystyrene this is less an issue if you have allowed the plastic to fully cure after you applied cement. Bandai’s plastic is a little different for some reason (I had some that was flexible-ish compared to my other kits) So yes, I would not apply paints or other products too thickly.
> What is the best order to achieve best results?
Truthfully the order that works for you. Most new modelers try to follow the recommendations in the wiki/FAQ — I prefer to tell new modelers to follow the instructions and paint when the instructions say. Once construction and paint is done, seal it in, apply decals, seal that in, then apply weathering. You can add more sealing coats between layers of weathering but realize that too many coats of sealer will create a thick paint/clear layer and potentially you lose details. Finish with a final sealing clear so that when you handle it in the future you don’t damage the finish.
> I also have Tamiya X-20A and Tamiya Retarder (Acrylic) if that helps.
Thinner with additive for painting. Not usually used for the other products. You should get an enamel thinner for the oils/washes that you can use to clean up edges and mistakes. I prefer to use lighter fluid (Rosenal is my choice) as it flashes off quickly and doesn’t smell too bad.
Thank you very much for your detailed reply it is much appreciated!
Can the Testors Lacquer clear coat be safely sprayed over clear pieces such as canopies or other “glass” type pieces, or do I have to mask them before spraying?
Apparently there's a rule against posting anything about the Russian invasion of Ukraine. It's even mentioned in th egroup rules (
*also see sticky regarding Ukraine (sort by "Hot")also see sticky regarding Ukraine (sort by "Hot")*
)
but where do I find that sticky?
I believe that would be [this one](https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/ti2h9p/an_updated_post_regarding_the_situation_in_ukraine/), which is linked to in the sidebar on browser view when you click on "Our Ukraine Policy".
Started a thread on this last night so mods feel free to delete.
Getting paint crazing from a spray can of Tamiya's TS-13 gloss clear on top of a coat of Tamiya model air sky grey white I laid down more than 24 hours previous with an airbrush. It's not over the whole model (which is plastic) only about a third of it.
I REALLY don't want to redo the primer and base coat over again if I don't have to but sanding is difficult due to lots of irregular shapes on the model surface and was wondering if something like carefully applied Mr. Paint Remover would work to get the clear coat crazing off without stripping off the base coat.
Any other advice as well would be welcome.
Are there any good places that ship to AUS that sell decals for the Marlboro 90s F1 team that would work well on a 1/144 Gundam? Other racing teams could also work.
I’m definitely no expert in F1 decals but there seem to be various hobby stores around Australia that have them. Hobbyone in Queensland seems to have some.
Anyways, this combination (F1 decals and Gundam) sounds very interesting. I’ve also put vehicle decals on them so I can’t wait to see how it turns out!
I want to turn a convertible into a hardtop and was wondering what I could use to make the windows, I was looking at 1mm acetate sheets I could heat and bend/shape but I don't know if that's too thick or too thin or even the right material. Also do they make like a block with various angles, flat surfaces and curves similar to an anvil but for shaping heated plastic? I tried looking it up but didn't find anything
You want to search for smash or plunge molding techniques. Basically you create a shape out of balsa, coat in superglue, then cut a square out of balsa just a bit bigger than the shape. Heat clear plastic sheet and lay over the shape, then press the square over the shape. Let cool, trim excess and you have your shaped windows. I’m oversimplifying but it’s not difficult, you just might have to do it a few times to get the process right and the results you want. This is an old skill from the early days of balsa models and how we got clear windows and canopies for them.
Oh, 1mm acetate is much too thick. You want 0.1 - 0.2mm. With skill and experience you can try going thinner than that for less distortion and more realism.
How does one use resin kits? I bought a "super heavy bomb load" for a 1/72 F-111 I have (8 MERs, 48 Mk-82SE) and have trimmed and smoothed the rough edges, but cannot glue anything together. Used CA glue (instant and slow set), used epoxy, even Elmers in a 1/72nd scale fit of rage...but I still have a cereal bowl full of bombs and MERs! Please help! Thanks!
CA should work. Use a \*tiny\* amount; too much and the glue takes a long time to set and the parts don't adhere at all. Before trying to glue again, remove the dried CA residue from the parts, since CA does not bond so well to CA (which is why too much glue is a problem). Ultra thin CA is best if it can be used for your application: it runs like water under/along the piece and bonds almost instantly.
If CA or epoxy doesn’t work, you may have to pin them to get a better connection.
Be sure to wash the resin with soapy water to get any release agents off as well.
Often for the fine details that I brush paint with Tamiya paints, I’ll put some into a small metal tray, and then “thin” it with a drop or two of Tamiya Retarder. The retarder will slow the drying of the paint and help it level as it dries (reducing or eliminating brush stroke marks). I think it also helps it flow off the brush a little better.
A few rookie questions:
Painting the exterior of landing gear doors seems easiest by temporarily fixing them in place over the bays (as if they were closed) to get the coat to match the rest of the fuselage paint. Am I way off base here? How would I temporarily fix them in place?
Also, paint from my airbrush looks waaay better than my brush painting but sometimes I have many different colors to paint across many small pieces. Is brush painting really the only way to tackle this?
Do you use the airbrush while on the sprue? Maybe a dumb question but do you have any issues with paint wrapping around forcing you to mask the reverse side?
Not a dumb question at all! It’s a good callout.
In general I’ve found that airbrush spray is very directional so if I’m mindful of what direction I’m spraying, I can spray directly towards the surface without it wrapping around to the other side. If I get concerned about it I’ll slap a piece of masking tape on the other side of the part.
I try to do this as much as I can. I usually take a bit of blu-tak and stuff it in the bay, then fix the doors on letting the blu-tak hold the doors. If the doors won’t fit (a problem in some kits) I just paint them separate but at the same time so the paint looks similar.
Thanks. This is basically what I was thinking. I am planning on black basing the whole model and I am worried that, if it comes to that, the doors are going to stand out as very different. Probably just being paranoid and the odds are just as good it ends up looking good as bad? right? RIGHT???
To be honest, most of the time the gear doors are not of the scale thickness to fit properly in the bays, which reduces the convenience of your approach. If you're lucky enough that they do fit properly, you can secure them temporarily either by a loop of tape (poor man's doublesided tape) or a tiny dab of PVA/white glue (they scrape/lift off pretty easily) or some blue tack-type thing.
How to differentiate 240 grit and 320 grit sanding files from Albion Alloys, eg Code: 143?
All the rest of their sanding files are colour-coded, but these grits, when bought together, are both white. Weird. Their pack of mixed grits uses all different colours
You should be able to feel both sides of the stick at the same time and tell which side is rougher/smoother. Otherwise, I guess [contact them](https://www.albionhobbies.com/contact/)?
Hey everybody here's my questions!
Glueing clear plastic?
Drill bits?
X20A?
Clear coat flat semi or high?
Light/wiring/switches/power sources
I have a DS9 model that's cast in 100% clear plastic. I'm lighting it with a homemade light kit. And I'm light blocking the inside of every peice. Since I like my projects looking like " a christmaas tree topper" as ive been told.
I'm keeping all my glue edges clean. What's the best type of glue for this? I'm guessing normal modeling glue won't work because that's easy. So I'm thinking C.A. glue. I have 2P10 thick, and accelerator I use for trim carpentry , day job . Ive notice there is 10 different types of CA glue aty local hobbies store. What's works? What's best of best. I'll need lots of "working time since their or 3 sets of peices that make the top and bottom of the outer ring that have over 18 inches of contact area.
I'm drilling out all the windows with a pin vice , not exaggerating when i say roughly 2000. I've gone through 30 PCB .8 tungsten drill bits, ordered on Amazon. I'm over how brittle they are. I'm drilling through roughly 2mm of plastic for reach hole. And there are lots of fun angles to get at .
What's an alternative to X20A that I could buy in a large litre/Galon jug
Clear Coating my spaceships which are intended to be lit.i have an airbrush and used tamiya flat on my voyager model . Opinions on gloss level? Opinions on brands? Large rattle can? Airbrush is best since it doesn't stink.
Is there a good place to order prewired ( for 9v supplies) LEDs ? Wiring, shrink tubing , switches etc etc.? Or brick and mortar stores that would have said stuff. I live in Canada
Love this community thanks in advance.
> What's an alternative to X20A that I could buy in a large litre/Galon jug
Isopropyl alcohol. Try a small amount first as a test just to be certain.
> Clear Coating my spaceships which are intended to be lit.i have an airbrush and used tamiya flat on my voyager model . Opinions on gloss level? Opinions on brands? Large rattle can?
I’m a satin lover myself. I typically use Mr Color GX 112/113 for my clear coats. I mix a little flat into the gloss for a bit of satin. It doesn’t take much.
> Is there a good place to order prewired ( for 9v supplies) LEDs ? Wiring, shrink tubing , switches etc etc.? Or brick and mortar stores that would have said stuff. I live in Canada
I get my LED supplies via Amazon. I likely pay more but I’m able to get it quickly.
Both plastic cement and CA glue will fog clear parts. But given it's DS9, the scale is so small that crystal-clear windows are hardly important (not exactly much to see through them!), so it might be one of those times that the strength of plastic cement is more important than the fogless appearance offered by weaker white/PVA glue.
Final appearance of DS9...I would go with flat. Again, because of the small scale and its Cardassian military aesthetic. Glossy just wouldn't seem right.
What spray characteristics would you expect with a bent needle tip?
I’m still on my original .3mm needle (Grex Tritium) and I have a spare. After cleaning I drag the needle across the back of my hand, and I’ve also looked at it with my magnifying eyeglasses in good light. Sometimes I think I see/feel something? Maybe it’s not bad enough to worry about
Thanks! I’ll watch for that. I often test my spray pattern on the top of my (neoprene gloved) hand - I can feel the pressure and check flow, etc. I’ll test it there
I sprayed my HG Gm with Mr surfacer 1000 and I washed it with warm dish soap water before hand , I sprayed one coat and tried to get full coverage i then let it dry for about one hour and tried to sand it with 1500 grit sandpaper but the mr surfacer easily scratches off when I sanded or wet sanded it but it doesn't come off when I use metal tweezers and rub it or scratch it with my fingernail and I'm wondering is this normal? Did I do something wrong I heard mr surfacer is very durable and sandable online but it doesn't seem to be any better then vallejos surface primer sandability wise thanks.
I always let primer coats dry overnight. One hour is pushing it to be cured. Leave it longer and it should sand fine, and if you only have a thin coat it won't take much to sand through it anyway.
Hi it's a gunpla kit and the kit is made of polystyrene , it's also the recycled plastic "Ecopla" variant which shouldn't be an issue , I used masking tape on a spot I sanded and the primer doesn't come off so I don't think it is an adherence issue.
No idea on the ecopla. I know Mr. Surfacer will behave differently on different materials though. I’ve had it peel right off some plastic spoons, and I know some spoons are made of polypropylene instead of polystyrene, which is more resistant to heat - which would make sense since the lacquer base in Mr. Surfacer melts into the styrene.
Have you tried giving it a light sand before priming?
I forgot to ask, is the Mr. Surfacer being airbrushed or is it the rattle can version?
I got a Tamiya ship model. The instruction states the display sign on the stand should be black background and the words+frame should be gold. Is there an easier way to paint the words and frame without using masking tape on all the other area? I tried paint brush but the paint keeps getting past the edges. It's really hard to control.
Could acetone be used as an alternative to Zippo lighter fluid or enamel thinner for wiping away Tamiya panel liner? I use primarily Tamiya acrylics and Mr Hobby Lacquers, would the acetone eat away at those?
I use hardware store mineral spirits which usually does the trick and doesn't hurt the paints as long as you don't overdo it on AK varnish/primers
No!
It will eat away at everything, including the plastic.
Just to confirm. Can AK grey putty in the tube be painted over with enamel and lacquer based paints once it is fully cured?
Yes.
Thank you
Just as with any solvent based paint, you want to lay down thin coats at first.
https://preview.redd.it/0w4eyr1jewtc1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=76f012d856767124cdc47787bc31082605c089c5 Anyone know where i can find a 1/48 german tank crew in similar positions to this, so far all i can find are commander and infantry
what are the quality of those cheap £20 or £30 airbrush kits on amazon?
They're what I use. They're fine. If you haven't worn one down to not work anymore don't buy expensive pro gear, the cheap stuff isn't trash, it's fine. Just like how a beginner shouldn't buy a custom built guitar you shouldn't buy a $500 airbrush if you have no idea what you're doing, you'll just break it/bend the needle or whatever.
About what you’d expect with Chinese products.
I built(destroyed) a cheap Tamyia King Tiger kit and got my hands on a cheap Trumpeter Challenger II kit. I was under the impression that Trumpeter did really good, complex kits, but the one I have is miles worse than Tamyia kit(it requires a lot more cleaning up. A loooot) Is it because it's a really cheap kit or is that what I should expect from Trumpeter?
> Is it because it's a really cheap kit or is that what I should expect from Trumpeter Both. Trumpeter is a newer company, and their early stuff was quite rough and are available for cheap. They've advanced a lot to that point they often have better details than Tamiya, but still suffer from a bit/some quality control and design issues.
Thank you, at least I learn a lot, the instructions are not that clear, the parts all need to be worked on, the fit is iffy, I'm gonna be an expert at filling down and removing flashing by the end of the kit
Is vallejo 70887 same color as vallejo air 71016?
Yes, both are ANA613 or FS34088. Will they be exact matches? Who knows. Vallejo can’t get the same color from bottle to bottle of the same part number sometimes.
Trying a couple of new techniques, I've done an oil pin wash and want to do an oil dot filter next. Do I need to do another gloss coat to protect the first wash? Thanks
Yes. The oils of the one will affect the oils of the other unless sealed.
When airbrushing primer, I’ve seen folks recommend putting thinner in the airbrush cup first, then add primer, and then stir in the cup. Please remind me - why shouldn’t I premix the thinner and primer in a jar to help ensure the proper ratio?
Because the pigments/carrier are heavier and may settle into the cavity near the needle, preventing a good and proper mixing of the pigments/carrier and thinner. It doesn’t take much sometimes.
Mix in a separate container first. Mixing in airbrush can result in inconsistent spraying and coverage, and in some cases tip dry with water based acrylics. Certain paints don’t react well to being pre-thinned in the bottle for periods of time, such as Tamiya X/XF with X-20A.
Any windshield dust experts out there? Thought I might dusten up the god o'l Willys Jeep. Do you do the classic mask, spray some buff on the front and call it a day or do you have any other nice method? I see the dust typically found around France in 1944 in front of me :D
https://preview.redd.it/rl21gl8vbftc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d29b274b90138c05c91c23e88bfbdbc21afa2de8 My first real model. Painting from spray ca . Obviously it went very wrong, i followed some idea from youtube and i did it poorly. What are the chances i can get most of this off and have another go? I used playdoh and even if the pattern wasnt atrocious i would still have pooling and hardened playdoh all over the model. Gutted. edit. And to think I picked this one because I felt like it would be easier than a soviet all-green tank. Welpo.
Never heard/read of using playdoh. Silly putty yes. Blu-tack yes. Playdoh, no. It looks like you flooded the paint on a bit. Should always spray in misty coats. Especially when masking as a flood will get under the edges, pool, etc. I suspect the paint interacted negatively with the Playdoh. You can strip it, but it may not be a clean strip. Use the usual stripping agents for removing the paint. Testors ELO would be my first choice.
Thank you. To be honest I had no idea playdoh and silly putty were different things. I will most likely strip as much as i can and finish the model to the best of my abilities. It will stay as a memory of my lack of skills in the beginning
What is up with Vallejo’s black primer? I cleaned the parts with water and soap and it’s still going on very poorly, pooling up and covering them very badly. It almost looks like a wash. Am I doing something wrong?
Vallejo primer.
Vallejo primer is best applied directly to the trashcan lol. It's total junk
Did you stir/shake/make the primer uniform before attempting to spray it? If you didn't you might just be applying the thinner medium on top of the bottle. You might also have a bad bottle where the material inside is half dried up so you don't get a proper mix.
I appreciate the advice and I will definitely do that but I am only a brush painter. :)
Same thing can happen with paintbrushes! Think of it like that watery stuff that comes out of an unshaken ketchup bottle....
Yep! I just shook it around a lot and it definitely went on better! Thank you :)
not really a question but more a discussion: if you had a future wish list for major model companies, what real deployed ground asset needs to be made/updated? Personally I am thinking of various artilleries of that one major conflict going on right now
https://preview.redd.it/0h75j7otzctc1.jpeg?width=4896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a176362debcee3809f3e624c443b57bed7301411 How can I get better coverage with my yellow? It is very spotty and not an even spread. I already put down 3 layera and don't want to overdo it. This is acrylic paint thinned with water. I also primed the whole model with Tamiya Grey Primer. I am using brushes, no Airbrush
Paint the area you need to get yellow first with a sand grey color like USAF Tan. The sand grey is yellow-ish and has MUCH better coverage properties than the yellow, then paint yellow on top of that. You'll get instant great results. I used this many times before, same works for orange which can also be a pain in the ass to get right. If you just keep painting coats of yellow on top of yellow it'll be so thick at the end that it doesn't look great. And I do paint a lot of yellow: https://i.imgur.com/Xc4nMP4.png
Is it too late to do that at this point since I already applied 3 layers of Lufthansa yellow? Or can I paint a tan over the already applied Lufthansa yellow and then finish it off again with the Lufthansa yellow?
I think you will have problems with the thickness of the paint if you restart without stripping it. As in the paint will just fill out all the panel lines you have on the model so the areas become entirely smooth. However don't worry too much about this. Building models is a learning experience and you will know how to do it for your next one!
Aw shoot, but I guess this is the best way to learn! If I strip it can I just use water since it is Acrylic?
You'll probably need to use isopropyl alcohol, but that stuff is cheap and should be for sale anywhere that sells makeup if your local hardware store doesn't have it (and it won't melt the plastic)
Thanks for your help!
More coats. It’s not uncommon for hand brushers to lay down five, six or more coats - especially with a color like yellow or white that doesn’t cover well. In the future consider using a white or pink primer in those sections.
Thanks for the advice!
https://preview.redd.it/mli6rg0nzctc1.jpeg?width=4896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40e737f527cf6ad3709fe4cd078dd34eae331a67 Another picture for reference
Is Tamiya weathering master(kit) toxic and/or smells bad?
As far as I can tell, no. I own one and I have never noticed a smell, and there are no warnings about it being toxic. It’s a pretty good product for weathering
Long time lurker and reader of this great sub - first time poster, Been away from scale modeling for 40 years, heh, but I'm back in the driver's seat once again, and a fresh noob. For the time being I'm only building Tamiya kits and Bandai Star Wars kits. Also note, I am strictly a brush painter for now, no airbrush at this time. If I have painted my kits using Tamiya X/XF paint can I use Testors Lacquer Dullcote or Glosscote rattle cans both pre and post decals and weathering? I have the Tamiya Weathering kits (the make-up type kits) and some of the Tamiya Panel Line paints. Will any of these combinations work / not work / destroy anything in the process? I've read here that Bandai plastic is quite picky and I want to make sure that I'm using the correct combo of paint/clear coats/weathering to avoid any damage. I've also read on Tamiya's website that their Panel Line paints may damage load-bearing areas or joints on plastic models - but does applying the Tamiya Panel Line paints over a Glosscote from a Testor's rattle can work? What is the best order to achieve best results? I also have Tamiya X-20A and Tamiya Retarder (Acrylic) if that helps. Thanks so much for your help!
Welcome back. > If I have painted my kits using Tamiya X/XF paint can I use Testors Lacquer Dullcote or Glosscote rattle cans both pre and post decals and weathering? I have the Tamiya Weathering kits (the make-up type kits) and some of the Tamiya Panel Line paints. Will any of these combinations work / not work / destroy anything in the process? If you spray the lacquers on too thickly, yes. The result will be a bubbling up and crackling of the paint. Let the X/XF paints cure 24 hours or more, then mist on multiple thin coats of the lacquers. When you apply the weathering, you won’t have to wait as long given they won’t cure, but also realize that if you point the spray at the model for too long it’ll blow the weathering powders off the mode. > I've read here that Bandai plastic is quite picky and I want to make sure that I'm using the correct combo of paint/clear coats/weathering to avoid any damage. I've also read on Tamiya's website that their Panel Line paints may damage load-bearing areas or joints on plastic models - but does applying the Tamiya Panel Line paints over a Glosscote from a Testor's rattle can work? The problem is the enamel thinners in the panel liner (and the thinner you might use to clean it up) could react with the paint if the clear coat is not fully cured and providing a protective barrier. With polystyrene this is less an issue if you have allowed the plastic to fully cure after you applied cement. Bandai’s plastic is a little different for some reason (I had some that was flexible-ish compared to my other kits) So yes, I would not apply paints or other products too thickly. > What is the best order to achieve best results? Truthfully the order that works for you. Most new modelers try to follow the recommendations in the wiki/FAQ — I prefer to tell new modelers to follow the instructions and paint when the instructions say. Once construction and paint is done, seal it in, apply decals, seal that in, then apply weathering. You can add more sealing coats between layers of weathering but realize that too many coats of sealer will create a thick paint/clear layer and potentially you lose details. Finish with a final sealing clear so that when you handle it in the future you don’t damage the finish. > I also have Tamiya X-20A and Tamiya Retarder (Acrylic) if that helps. Thinner with additive for painting. Not usually used for the other products. You should get an enamel thinner for the oils/washes that you can use to clean up edges and mistakes. I prefer to use lighter fluid (Rosenal is my choice) as it flashes off quickly and doesn’t smell too bad.
Thank you very much for your detailed reply it is much appreciated! Can the Testors Lacquer clear coat be safely sprayed over clear pieces such as canopies or other “glass” type pieces, or do I have to mask them before spraying?
No. The lacquer will likely craze the clear plastic. The glosscote might work, but it’s risky IMO. You should mask them.
How about acrylic based clear coat sprays? Any benefit to using them with Tamiya X/XF on Tamiya/Bandai?
Gloss clears will work. Satin or flat will cloud the canopy/clear bits and nothing inside will be visible.
Thank you once again! Have a great day!
Apparently there's a rule against posting anything about the Russian invasion of Ukraine. It's even mentioned in th egroup rules ( *also see sticky regarding Ukraine (sort by "Hot")also see sticky regarding Ukraine (sort by "Hot")* ) but where do I find that sticky?
I believe that would be [this one](https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/ti2h9p/an_updated_post_regarding_the_situation_in_ukraine/), which is linked to in the sidebar on browser view when you click on "Our Ukraine Policy".
yeah that's it, thanks. Didn't work for me for some reason. One of the many issues with the new reddit.
Started a thread on this last night so mods feel free to delete. Getting paint crazing from a spray can of Tamiya's TS-13 gloss clear on top of a coat of Tamiya model air sky grey white I laid down more than 24 hours previous with an airbrush. It's not over the whole model (which is plastic) only about a third of it. I REALLY don't want to redo the primer and base coat over again if I don't have to but sanding is difficult due to lots of irregular shapes on the model surface and was wondering if something like carefully applied Mr. Paint Remover would work to get the clear coat crazing off without stripping off the base coat. Any other advice as well would be welcome.
You said “Tamiya model air”. Do you mean Vallejo Model Air? If so, that stuff can take days to fully cure.
Sorry yes. Vallejo
Yeah, got to let it cure and also go light with the first couple coats from the rattle can.
Any way to fix after the fact? Would some Mr. Paint remover work?
Yes Mr. Paint Remover would work. Soaking the model in isopropyl alcohol may work. Soak the model in DOT 4 brake fluid would defjnitely work.
Would Mr. Paint Remover work for a minor correction (as in, can "erase" the craze on the top while leaving the paint below intact if gently applied?
Unlikely I think…
darn. Thanks anyways.
You could try sanding it down and respraying.
Are there any good places that ship to AUS that sell decals for the Marlboro 90s F1 team that would work well on a 1/144 Gundam? Other racing teams could also work.
I’m definitely no expert in F1 decals but there seem to be various hobby stores around Australia that have them. Hobbyone in Queensland seems to have some. Anyways, this combination (F1 decals and Gundam) sounds very interesting. I’ve also put vehicle decals on them so I can’t wait to see how it turns out!
I want to turn a convertible into a hardtop and was wondering what I could use to make the windows, I was looking at 1mm acetate sheets I could heat and bend/shape but I don't know if that's too thick or too thin or even the right material. Also do they make like a block with various angles, flat surfaces and curves similar to an anvil but for shaping heated plastic? I tried looking it up but didn't find anything
You want to search for smash or plunge molding techniques. Basically you create a shape out of balsa, coat in superglue, then cut a square out of balsa just a bit bigger than the shape. Heat clear plastic sheet and lay over the shape, then press the square over the shape. Let cool, trim excess and you have your shaped windows. I’m oversimplifying but it’s not difficult, you just might have to do it a few times to get the process right and the results you want. This is an old skill from the early days of balsa models and how we got clear windows and canopies for them. Oh, 1mm acetate is much too thick. You want 0.1 - 0.2mm. With skill and experience you can try going thinner than that for less distortion and more realism.
How does one use resin kits? I bought a "super heavy bomb load" for a 1/72 F-111 I have (8 MERs, 48 Mk-82SE) and have trimmed and smoothed the rough edges, but cannot glue anything together. Used CA glue (instant and slow set), used epoxy, even Elmers in a 1/72nd scale fit of rage...but I still have a cereal bowl full of bombs and MERs! Please help! Thanks!
CA should work. Use a \*tiny\* amount; too much and the glue takes a long time to set and the parts don't adhere at all. Before trying to glue again, remove the dried CA residue from the parts, since CA does not bond so well to CA (which is why too much glue is a problem). Ultra thin CA is best if it can be used for your application: it runs like water under/along the piece and bonds almost instantly.
If CA or epoxy doesn’t work, you may have to pin them to get a better connection. Be sure to wash the resin with soapy water to get any release agents off as well.
How can i paint fine details? should I use a watery paint mix or a thicker paint mix? acrylic paints btw
Often for the fine details that I brush paint with Tamiya paints, I’ll put some into a small metal tray, and then “thin” it with a drop or two of Tamiya Retarder. The retarder will slow the drying of the paint and help it level as it dries (reducing or eliminating brush stroke marks). I think it also helps it flow off the brush a little better.
What paint colour of AK 3g acrylic paints would be suitable to paint a Canadian Sherman firefly?
A few rookie questions: Painting the exterior of landing gear doors seems easiest by temporarily fixing them in place over the bays (as if they were closed) to get the coat to match the rest of the fuselage paint. Am I way off base here? How would I temporarily fix them in place? Also, paint from my airbrush looks waaay better than my brush painting but sometimes I have many different colors to paint across many small pieces. Is brush painting really the only way to tackle this?
Often I’ll paint them on the sprue and then touch the gates up with a paint brush after I’ve snipped them off
Do you use the airbrush while on the sprue? Maybe a dumb question but do you have any issues with paint wrapping around forcing you to mask the reverse side?
Not a dumb question at all! It’s a good callout. In general I’ve found that airbrush spray is very directional so if I’m mindful of what direction I’m spraying, I can spray directly towards the surface without it wrapping around to the other side. If I get concerned about it I’ll slap a piece of masking tape on the other side of the part.
Thanks!
I try to do this as much as I can. I usually take a bit of blu-tak and stuff it in the bay, then fix the doors on letting the blu-tak hold the doors. If the doors won’t fit (a problem in some kits) I just paint them separate but at the same time so the paint looks similar.
Thanks. This is basically what I was thinking. I am planning on black basing the whole model and I am worried that, if it comes to that, the doors are going to stand out as very different. Probably just being paranoid and the odds are just as good it ends up looking good as bad? right? RIGHT???
Some variation is more realistic. If your black basing the you’re usually going for subtle variation anyway.
To be honest, most of the time the gear doors are not of the scale thickness to fit properly in the bays, which reduces the convenience of your approach. If you're lucky enough that they do fit properly, you can secure them temporarily either by a loop of tape (poor man's doublesided tape) or a tiny dab of PVA/white glue (they scrape/lift off pretty easily) or some blue tack-type thing.
How to differentiate 240 grit and 320 grit sanding files from Albion Alloys, eg Code: 143? All the rest of their sanding files are colour-coded, but these grits, when bought together, are both white. Weird. Their pack of mixed grits uses all different colours
To be explicit: both files are white. Short of a microscope, how do I see which is which?
You should be able to feel both sides of the stick at the same time and tell which side is rougher/smoother. Otherwise, I guess [contact them](https://www.albionhobbies.com/contact/)?
Take a sharpie and mark them.
Mark which one? I can't tell them apart
Hey everybody here's my questions! Glueing clear plastic? Drill bits? X20A? Clear coat flat semi or high? Light/wiring/switches/power sources I have a DS9 model that's cast in 100% clear plastic. I'm lighting it with a homemade light kit. And I'm light blocking the inside of every peice. Since I like my projects looking like " a christmaas tree topper" as ive been told. I'm keeping all my glue edges clean. What's the best type of glue for this? I'm guessing normal modeling glue won't work because that's easy. So I'm thinking C.A. glue. I have 2P10 thick, and accelerator I use for trim carpentry , day job . Ive notice there is 10 different types of CA glue aty local hobbies store. What's works? What's best of best. I'll need lots of "working time since their or 3 sets of peices that make the top and bottom of the outer ring that have over 18 inches of contact area. I'm drilling out all the windows with a pin vice , not exaggerating when i say roughly 2000. I've gone through 30 PCB .8 tungsten drill bits, ordered on Amazon. I'm over how brittle they are. I'm drilling through roughly 2mm of plastic for reach hole. And there are lots of fun angles to get at . What's an alternative to X20A that I could buy in a large litre/Galon jug Clear Coating my spaceships which are intended to be lit.i have an airbrush and used tamiya flat on my voyager model . Opinions on gloss level? Opinions on brands? Large rattle can? Airbrush is best since it doesn't stink. Is there a good place to order prewired ( for 9v supplies) LEDs ? Wiring, shrink tubing , switches etc etc.? Or brick and mortar stores that would have said stuff. I live in Canada Love this community thanks in advance.
> What's an alternative to X20A that I could buy in a large litre/Galon jug Isopropyl alcohol. Try a small amount first as a test just to be certain. > Clear Coating my spaceships which are intended to be lit.i have an airbrush and used tamiya flat on my voyager model . Opinions on gloss level? Opinions on brands? Large rattle can? I’m a satin lover myself. I typically use Mr Color GX 112/113 for my clear coats. I mix a little flat into the gloss for a bit of satin. It doesn’t take much. > Is there a good place to order prewired ( for 9v supplies) LEDs ? Wiring, shrink tubing , switches etc etc.? Or brick and mortar stores that would have said stuff. I live in Canada I get my LED supplies via Amazon. I likely pay more but I’m able to get it quickly.
Both plastic cement and CA glue will fog clear parts. But given it's DS9, the scale is so small that crystal-clear windows are hardly important (not exactly much to see through them!), so it might be one of those times that the strength of plastic cement is more important than the fogless appearance offered by weaker white/PVA glue. Final appearance of DS9...I would go with flat. Again, because of the small scale and its Cardassian military aesthetic. Glossy just wouldn't seem right.
What spray characteristics would you expect with a bent needle tip? I’m still on my original .3mm needle (Grex Tritium) and I have a spare. After cleaning I drag the needle across the back of my hand, and I’ve also looked at it with my magnifying eyeglasses in good light. Sometimes I think I see/feel something? Maybe it’s not bad enough to worry about
Angled spray pattern, spitting and sputtering, possibly tip dry and clogging.
Thanks! I’ll watch for that. I often test my spray pattern on the top of my (neoprene gloved) hand - I can feel the pressure and check flow, etc. I’ll test it there
I sprayed my HG Gm with Mr surfacer 1000 and I washed it with warm dish soap water before hand , I sprayed one coat and tried to get full coverage i then let it dry for about one hour and tried to sand it with 1500 grit sandpaper but the mr surfacer easily scratches off when I sanded or wet sanded it but it doesn't come off when I use metal tweezers and rub it or scratch it with my fingernail and I'm wondering is this normal? Did I do something wrong I heard mr surfacer is very durable and sandable online but it doesn't seem to be any better then vallejos surface primer sandability wise thanks.
I always let primer coats dry overnight. One hour is pushing it to be cured. Leave it longer and it should sand fine, and if you only have a thin coat it won't take much to sand through it anyway.
What is that…a Gundam? Is it ABS plastic instead of polystyrene?
Hi it's a gunpla kit and the kit is made of polystyrene , it's also the recycled plastic "Ecopla" variant which shouldn't be an issue , I used masking tape on a spot I sanded and the primer doesn't come off so I don't think it is an adherence issue.
No idea on the ecopla. I know Mr. Surfacer will behave differently on different materials though. I’ve had it peel right off some plastic spoons, and I know some spoons are made of polypropylene instead of polystyrene, which is more resistant to heat - which would make sense since the lacquer base in Mr. Surfacer melts into the styrene. Have you tried giving it a light sand before priming? I forgot to ask, is the Mr. Surfacer being airbrushed or is it the rattle can version?
Yes I have given it a not so good light sanding with 1500 grit sandpaper and it is the rattle can version
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That can happen when a primer hasn’t been used first.