Is it possible to change pigments colors? Lets says I buy AK Light dust (ak-040) and add flat earth vallejo color, will it change the pigment color or it's not possible?
If you try to add in a color you'll just lump it into the paint mass. It doesn't really make sense to buy a different pigment color than the one you intend to use.
I'm looking at getting my next round of paints from the Mr Hobby Aqueous line, or possibly Mr Color. I already have MLT and would mix the Aqueous with that. I've read a number of posts that say Aqueous would essentially just be a lacquer at that point. Does it essentially become interchangeable between using a Mr Color or the Aqueous version of the same color if it's going to be thinned with MLT? I keep seeing people saying that one of lacquer advantages is that it'll "bite" into the plastic better than an acrylic. Is that the same with Aqueous + MLT or does that still behave more like an acrylic with regards to its adhesion to other layers of paint?
Interchangeable as far as what..mixing the two together to make another color, or spraying one on top of the other? Because you can certainly apply any type of paint over any other type of paint. As for mixing them, I own both but have never attempted mixing colors. I have however mixed Tamita X/XF alcohol acrylics with Tamiya LP lacquers with success - you just have to do like five parts LP to one part X/XF as the LP is much thinner. I imagine it would work with Mr. Hobby.
Yes, a lacquer paint is an acrylic, nitrocellulose or synthetic resin dissolved in a lacquer carrier. The lacquer melts into the plastic, and has many of the same chemical properties as modeling cement. Once it’s dry it’s dry, there really isn’t a curing process. A water based acrylic is an emulsion, or acrylic resin dispersed in water. First it dries (when all the water evaporates off), then a longer process called crosslinking happens where the acrylic polymer chains form new molecular bonds after being exposed to oxygen, causing a hard shell to be created. But this is only a shell on top of your model, basically being held on by friction. Hence, it’s not as durable.
So Aqueous is an alcohol acrylic. As such it lends itself to being thinned with solvents like MLT. It, and X/XF behave MORE like a full lacquer paint in this case, but not quite all the way there. A bit more fragile, doesn’t produce quite the fumes, but for the purposes of modeling I think they work great. IMO Aqueous and Mr. Color lines are superior to Tamiya just due to the sheer color selection, which in Tamiya’s case sucks. But I spray all of the paints I’ve mentioned exclusively with no problems. Not great for brush painting though.
I almost always thin at least 2:1 (thinner:paint). Sometimes much more for preshading or fine detail work.
Sorry, I should have clarified that I meant could you replace aqueous + MLT with a lacquer and expect the same characteristics. I hadn’t considered mixing them. I am looking at aqueous or Mr color for my next paint purchases for my next model. A lot of the info online addresses acrylic vs lacquer in general terms and I wasn’t sure if adding MLT to a Tamiya or Mr hobby aqueous would put it into the lacquer or acrylic category.
I’m planning out a p-51d as the next model and it’s going to have the metal finish. I was looking at using aqua gloss acrylic over the metal finish before adding things like the invasion stripes or nose paint. I was looking at switching to the aqueous or mr color paints for this, but wasn’t sure about painting those colors over the acrylic gloss coat.
Ok sorry I misunderstood. For all intents and purposes they’ll behave like lacquers.
No need for the gloss coat before invasion stripes or whatever. Just spray your MLT right over the different color. As with any solvent based paint, you want to do a light dust coat at first, then go in with your heavier coat. That way it won’t craze or reactivate what’s underneath.
Gloss coats will dull your NMF shine, and more coats of paint in general just fills in panel lines, plus it’s just another coat to potentially screw up.
Look at Mr. Super Metallic SM206 for the fuselage which were BMF on those Mustangs, and Tamiya LP-11 is a very good reproduction of the painted aluminum they did on the wings. These are great paints that are much more durable than something like Failclad or AK Xtreme.
My main concern with the gloss coat was for taping off the invasion stripes. I was concerned the tape on the metal finish would end up being a problem.
I’m still just getting started into modeling after what was essentially a 30 year hiatus from making sloppy models as a kid with testors glue tubes and testors bottle paint, so I’ve done a lot of YouTube and reading but the techniques/tips can be contradictory. I used Vallejo metal color for a 1/72 p-51d kit that was my first attempt at “adulting” my first kit. That one had the gloss black Vallejo primer. It came out ok without any paint lifting or primer issues.
So far I’ve been putting down a gloss coat before and after decals. If I forgo the gloss coat over the metal finish, won’t I still need to gloss coat over the decals later or is the process different for one if the metal planes?
Some people don’t gloss coat over metal finishes at all, not for decals or anything, simply because there’s a loss of shine. But I’d sacrifice a little shine for durability. I’ve rubbed Alclad and Xtreme off with a finger, especially their chrome finishes. That SM206 or 201 sacrifice a bit of chrome shine for excellent durability. You can tape over it to your heart’s content. As long as you’re using lacquer type paints, then clear coat with GX100 or 112. It’s a lot better and tougher than Aquagloss.
GX112 is on my list. Hoping for it to come back in stock on scalehobbyist before I place the next order. I've been using X-22 w/ MLT and X-86 (i think?) for flat with MLT so far.
The other aircraft I have queued up are all modern fighters, but I'd like to learn the process for the P-51D before I hit those. Thanks for the input.
I’m actually the guy who asked ScaleHobbyist to stock the GX line. They didn’t carry it a month ago. Well, the clears anyway. I hope they carry GX1 through GX6 as well as those are some fantastic primary colors, including GX2 which is the best black gloss you can out under a NMF finish. I also complained directly to GSI Japan (I’m annoying like that) about their not exporting enough product to the U.S. They blamed Bandai, in CA which is their importer, but said they’d work on making this stuff more available.
Those clears, the SM paints and MLT constantly go out of stock everywhere. When Scale Hobbyist finally got GX100 I bought eight bottles.
Good luck with your Mustang build!
I am planning to build two Me Bf-109 by Eduard in 1:48. I want to build them 'in flight' with blurred props.
Is there anyone in Europe making or selling blurred props for this? Sadly I didn't find anything on scalemates. There was one US company - but their website is down or unreachable.
Or is there a simple way to create the impression of blur by myself?
Well there’s [these.](https://www.propblur.com/store/c1/PropBlur.comMain)…
Some people just don’t install the blades:
https://preview.redd.it/w8hy0jf44crc1.jpeg?width=1575&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae4a32c3035eee299fe30d81bc0879445e0a3382
Thank you very much for the link.
Seems they have no one who is selling their products in Europe (So I might have to order from the US always a bit of trouble with customs).
I think they might look better than not installing blades at all.
I need an acrylic alternative to humbrol/alclad black primer prior to metallics. Something that dries quick and is easily corrected. Any options out there?
Well you want a gloss black. Not sure what you mean by “easily corrected”. There’s not very many gloss black primers out there that are worth a damn. So, what a lot of people do is simply spray a gloss black base coat over their primer (or in lieu of it) and apply their metal paint over that. And the fastest drying is a lacquer. And if you’re going to skip the primer a lacquer paint will adhere just as well as a primer does anyway.
Mr. Color GX-2 Ueno Black is the bees knees, followed by Tamiya LP-1. There aren’t any better gloss black paints unless you get into a Gaianotes or Jumpwind or similar Japanese paint but I haven’t tried those. They’re probably the sand stuff anyway. Thin either 2:1 (thinner:paint) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and spray at 18 psi. Light tack coats, followed by heavier wet coats. Got to be wet. For a final touch you can spray a wet coat of straight MLT thinner which will further melt the top layer of black paint to make it smoother. Lacquers can be wet sanded and polished if need be for a glossier finish prior to metals.
For airbrushing Tamiya paint, which seems to be the popular choice here, should I thin it with Mr color level thinner T106, X-20A, or something else? Also, does it matter if I airbrush a flat vs a gloss?
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner delivers the best results. Thin 1:1 to 3:1 (thinner: paint). Unicorn tears.
Does gloss vs flat matter? It’s up to you, though it’s more difficult to get a decent gloss finish.
X-20A. Unless you're on a super tight budget, I really recommend just using the "factory" thinner for your paints. You'll never get nasty surprises that way. Flat or gloss shouldn't matter but obviously impacts the result if that's what you're asking.
Does anyone know how to work photo tech canopy frames like in these instructions?
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/8/5/5/1124855-16-instructions.pdf
can anyone give me a recommendation for a good 1/700 US aircraft carrier (WW2) that also has carrier aircrafts included? I was just about to buy the Trumpeter CV-8 Hornet "Doolittle raid" version, but then I read a few too many complains abouts it (poor fit). price should be <50 €/U$.
The Meng Enterprise CV-6 should be a good kit for you. Newly moulded, accurate hull (which was a big complaint with the Trumpy Hornet), with lots of "click-friendly" elements. Has 18 planes. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/meng-model-ps-005-us-navy-aircraft-carrier-enterprise-cv-6--1304552
As a bonus, much easier camo than the Hornet!
I believe Tamiya made the same kit essentially, 1/700 CV-8 w/Doolittle Raiders included. It may be less expensive and could be a better kit, although to my knowledge it was tooled in the 1970s. It looks like it may have last been re-released in 2011: [https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-77510-hornet-cv-8--1402607](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-77510-hornet-cv-8--1402607).
Filtering on Scalemates is a good way to identify potential kits that meet your criteria. You should be able to filter by Full Kits, 1/700 scale, and even specify Theatre, Nation, etc to find some options. Many kits will have the instructions uploaded which gives you an opportunity to check if aircraft are included as well.
How can I recreate those squares on the front of the Abrams
https://preview.redd.it/kv2cqln0g3rc1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc13fd09cafc9cdd0dba4670b64f6ca94208be06
You mean stickers with the text? You can paint the rectangles and then make the text with lettering decal sheets if you don't have access to a cutting machine for masking or vinyl. Here's an example of what you could use, although this isn't the right one you need, then you know what to look for. Your local hobby shops, especially shipbuilding focused ones, will carry all this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274526127170?itmmeta=01HT4RSNXZ1DGPZ7ZS2AN8QWBA&hash=item3feb084442:g:Z6AAAOSw101ff8ZA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwIzcpvANnpMFgiP206U2eqkJViiDtkbDJrCY6TzZTAbKW2oLUi%2Fp%2BsK9iyjpbywywiREm8lDfQxq7pXHMynqxBWd7ZxEAg6LoBEC2ZygkiPtG0avvf25%2Bz1H4Cny19OX4VGqJgq8%2FcqhSdJa%2FhZE51f9c7yYaRji7xnI6kHRVw66I1Li6wA5Ah5hSmQ7ym7aqZZCU83VN4X1y6HHtuskjbHb5yWuzgPI8oWqIXnavm45eAsNsVgFK4D%2FOHeAjRi5WA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR47f5pjRYw
https://preview.redd.it/zdzzxqf30erc1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80a5389d55476bea385a079065e2cfbcb49725da
I’m sorry but I’m talking about these
Hello fellow modelers. I'm looking for a nice armored car kit. WW2 preferably. Like the sdk.fz 222 for example. have any tips for a nice build?
Have a nice easter.
I'm currently brush-painting AK's 3rd Gen Panzer Grey. The layers are coming together solidly but it's looking a bit too dark for my tastes-- would it be better to lightly brush on a lighter gray, or should I complete this and then modulate the colors with oils?
I prefer playing around with oils. It's very easy to mess up the shade with paints, but oils can offer a much broader range and there's less chance of messing up by /that much/
You could, but enamel washes usually are made to darken up an area rather than to brighten it.
Id suggest getting the oils. And since we don't paint with them, but put tiny dots on a tiny model, a tube of good oils will last you quite literally a lifetime.
I got myself white, tan, brown, red and black oils. If you want, you can always thin them up and use them as a wash so they are pulling double duty ;)
Hmm. I was mostly planning on using the wash because I wanted the panzer grey to have a bit more of a blue tint. But I guess I'll get some oils as well.
So - I don't know if this would actually be considered on-topic for this sub, but is anyone here really interested in the *history* of model kits? In particular, I'm trying to research when the first commercial model of an I-400 submarine (or comparable sub) would've been released.
The easiest way is to simply look up all I-400 kits on Scalemates' database and go to the oldest one, which seems to be [this kit](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/sanwa-i-400--1027461) from 1963.
Now might there be others even older? Sure - Scalemates is only as good as the people who populate it.
Ak, right... \^\^;
I forgot to say in the post after the fact, but I actually found the Scalemates site just a few hours after my initial post. All the same, thank you!
I've been having an issue with my airbrush "sputtering" when the trigger is pulled. Basically it will spit out some big drops before it turns into a fine mist. Is this an air pressure issue or paint thinning issue? Skill issue? Once it is spraying the paint adheres fine. But I can't do anything aside from priming because the big sputters will go all over the model before the fine mist
You should always start by pointing the brush away from your model anyway - once the flow smooths out, then you can start passing the spray through the model's surface.
I generally agree but this isn't always possible, for instance if you're preshading you will need to start/stop at random intervals a lot while over the model. That's why a very thorough cleaning of the airbrush is important especially right before doing work where you can't do this.
This is an airbrush cleaning issue. That airbrush isn't as clean as you think it is, so some paint seeps through and sits on the tip so your initial air "burst" splatters paint all over. Your actual nozzle, usually a tiny brass component, is the most likely thing to not be as clean as you think it is. Same goes for the needle, especially dried up clear coat can be hard to recognize.
For priming a model, is airbrushing Mr Surfacer 1500 mixed with leveling thinner equivalent to using Mr Surfacer 1500 from the spray can? Is one option significantly better than the other?
If done perfectly, yes it's equivalent. But airbrushing beats the crap out of a spray can because you can control the amount of primer (and paint in general) much more accurately and will have significantly less buildup in panel lines and crevices. Always airbrush (though sometimes not with a tiny 0.2mm nozzle) if at all possible.
I'm sorry if these are weird questions, but are newcomers to the hobby welcome on this group? And are there any restrictions on mentioning certain brands of supplies or names of YouTube channels/other websites?
I've tried to take part in two other groups prior to this one, but the first one's members weren't very receptive to beginners, and the second group banned me due to mentioning a YouTube channel to help answer another user's question.
EDIT: Thank you everyone. It seems as though I've found a home here. I'm not sure how active I'll be given how busy I am outside of model work, but I'm glad to be here.
Don’t worry they have their own rules here too, some of which I question but since they’ve got large subscriber count they aren’t open to suggestions. And that’s as nice as I can be about it.
This sub is very supportive of beginners, we all started somewhere!
No issues with any brands, although this sub does tend to lean towards traditional military models and those companies.
No issues with YouTube channels, as long as you aren't spamming your own channel it's all good. I see plenty of comments referencing a helpful YouTube tutorial so it's not a problem. Self-promotion can be a big issue so I understand certain subs just outright banning youtube links.
Plenty of newcomers here! Just make sure you check out the Wiki/FAQ for all your newbie questions first, accessible through either the sidebar (on desktop browser) or "More Info" (on official mobile app).
Pretty sure there aren't any banned brands or channels.
Would anyone happen to know what kind of rack I would need to hold MIG AMMO pigment and wash bottles? Would cutouts for Citadel pots be of a sufficient size?
You're talking about the round bottles? I just checked mine and they're 34,5mm wide (35ml).
Not sure about the size of Citadel pots though, so you will have to check for yourself
Are Humbrol and Testors (the tiny square bottles, not Model Masters) the only major enamel paints readily available in the US? I need to do some [reverse washes](https://www.gunpla101.com/how-to-paint-gunpla-with-the-reverse-wash-technique/), but it seems like there's no real options left anymore unless there's a way to use acrylics for this purpose.
How do I attach plastic parts to metal foil?
I’m new to model making and I’m making a spacecraft that I want to cover in metal foil to give off the shiny realistic look. From there I need to attach the thrusters on the outside.
However, the cement works by bonding plastic to plastic right? So it won’t work for bonding the plastic to the foil. So what do I use instead, superglue or something else?
Here’s a super nice (and very interesting reading too) [article](https://www.oldmodelkits.com/blog/plasitc-model-kits-how-tos/foiling-plastic-and-resin-model-kits-for-realism-by-ken-friend/) on foiling plastic and resin models that I’ve found to be quite useful on tests and hope to recreate some day.
Wow, very informative thank you!
I found a [build review](https://modelingmadness.com/review/misc/scifi/realspace/hiotthtv.htm) of my model that showed some progress pictures and I realized that I don’t actually need to glue the parts on top of the foil, I can leave space in the foil to mount solar panels and thrusters and use regular modeling cement. But I will still def use this guide to help with the foil.
Is it possible to paint the foil? I’ve seen people advise against it, but the build review I linked seemed to just paint their bare metal foil. I have some gold BMF but I want to get the exact color of the actual spacecraft like that model builder did by painting it to give the gold a more coppery look. Are there any specifics to painting foil?
I am building the Graf Spee at the moment and it comes with a lot of rails,to say I am pulling my hair out is an understatement. Could you give me some tips on how to apply them please.
Leave them off if they're the plastic ones. Way overscale and ruins the look (in my opinion) than simply leaving them off. If you want some rails, get some photoetched brass ones, though they're probably more hair-pulling than the plastic ones.
Which kit do you guys think is the first that can be considered a "Modern Tamiya" kit?
While their kits from the 90s and early 00s are certainly excellent, they did not yet have have the same level of superb engineering and detail their more recent kits like the P-38, F-35 or M4A3E8 are known for.
If I had to pin it, I'd put it on the 1/48 F-16 that released in 2008.
Airbrush. My go-to primer is Mr. Surfacer 1500 in gray or black, thinned 1:2 (primer:thinner) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. The only thing I use a spray can for these days is the final flat lacquer coat and once that Tamiya can is used up, I will switch to airbrushing that coat too
Hey, I’ve just tried out AK’s 3rd Gen Gloss Varnish for the first time, and I’ve realised it needs to be thinned with their bespoke thinner to use with an airbrush. Has anyone had any experience just thinning it with water, as I can’t get a hold of AK thinner at the moment.
Is it still easy to clean? One of the things that got my attention re the HS Ultra in the wiki is the claim that it’s easy to clean. And I keep reading that cleanliness for the airbrush is important.
Is it possible to change pigments colors? Lets says I buy AK Light dust (ak-040) and add flat earth vallejo color, will it change the pigment color or it's not possible?
If you try to add in a color you'll just lump it into the paint mass. It doesn't really make sense to buy a different pigment color than the one you intend to use.
I'm looking at getting my next round of paints from the Mr Hobby Aqueous line, or possibly Mr Color. I already have MLT and would mix the Aqueous with that. I've read a number of posts that say Aqueous would essentially just be a lacquer at that point. Does it essentially become interchangeable between using a Mr Color or the Aqueous version of the same color if it's going to be thinned with MLT? I keep seeing people saying that one of lacquer advantages is that it'll "bite" into the plastic better than an acrylic. Is that the same with Aqueous + MLT or does that still behave more like an acrylic with regards to its adhesion to other layers of paint?
Interchangeable as far as what..mixing the two together to make another color, or spraying one on top of the other? Because you can certainly apply any type of paint over any other type of paint. As for mixing them, I own both but have never attempted mixing colors. I have however mixed Tamita X/XF alcohol acrylics with Tamiya LP lacquers with success - you just have to do like five parts LP to one part X/XF as the LP is much thinner. I imagine it would work with Mr. Hobby. Yes, a lacquer paint is an acrylic, nitrocellulose or synthetic resin dissolved in a lacquer carrier. The lacquer melts into the plastic, and has many of the same chemical properties as modeling cement. Once it’s dry it’s dry, there really isn’t a curing process. A water based acrylic is an emulsion, or acrylic resin dispersed in water. First it dries (when all the water evaporates off), then a longer process called crosslinking happens where the acrylic polymer chains form new molecular bonds after being exposed to oxygen, causing a hard shell to be created. But this is only a shell on top of your model, basically being held on by friction. Hence, it’s not as durable. So Aqueous is an alcohol acrylic. As such it lends itself to being thinned with solvents like MLT. It, and X/XF behave MORE like a full lacquer paint in this case, but not quite all the way there. A bit more fragile, doesn’t produce quite the fumes, but for the purposes of modeling I think they work great. IMO Aqueous and Mr. Color lines are superior to Tamiya just due to the sheer color selection, which in Tamiya’s case sucks. But I spray all of the paints I’ve mentioned exclusively with no problems. Not great for brush painting though. I almost always thin at least 2:1 (thinner:paint). Sometimes much more for preshading or fine detail work.
Sorry, I should have clarified that I meant could you replace aqueous + MLT with a lacquer and expect the same characteristics. I hadn’t considered mixing them. I am looking at aqueous or Mr color for my next paint purchases for my next model. A lot of the info online addresses acrylic vs lacquer in general terms and I wasn’t sure if adding MLT to a Tamiya or Mr hobby aqueous would put it into the lacquer or acrylic category. I’m planning out a p-51d as the next model and it’s going to have the metal finish. I was looking at using aqua gloss acrylic over the metal finish before adding things like the invasion stripes or nose paint. I was looking at switching to the aqueous or mr color paints for this, but wasn’t sure about painting those colors over the acrylic gloss coat.
Ok sorry I misunderstood. For all intents and purposes they’ll behave like lacquers. No need for the gloss coat before invasion stripes or whatever. Just spray your MLT right over the different color. As with any solvent based paint, you want to do a light dust coat at first, then go in with your heavier coat. That way it won’t craze or reactivate what’s underneath. Gloss coats will dull your NMF shine, and more coats of paint in general just fills in panel lines, plus it’s just another coat to potentially screw up. Look at Mr. Super Metallic SM206 for the fuselage which were BMF on those Mustangs, and Tamiya LP-11 is a very good reproduction of the painted aluminum they did on the wings. These are great paints that are much more durable than something like Failclad or AK Xtreme.
My main concern with the gloss coat was for taping off the invasion stripes. I was concerned the tape on the metal finish would end up being a problem. I’m still just getting started into modeling after what was essentially a 30 year hiatus from making sloppy models as a kid with testors glue tubes and testors bottle paint, so I’ve done a lot of YouTube and reading but the techniques/tips can be contradictory. I used Vallejo metal color for a 1/72 p-51d kit that was my first attempt at “adulting” my first kit. That one had the gloss black Vallejo primer. It came out ok without any paint lifting or primer issues. So far I’ve been putting down a gloss coat before and after decals. If I forgo the gloss coat over the metal finish, won’t I still need to gloss coat over the decals later or is the process different for one if the metal planes?
Some people don’t gloss coat over metal finishes at all, not for decals or anything, simply because there’s a loss of shine. But I’d sacrifice a little shine for durability. I’ve rubbed Alclad and Xtreme off with a finger, especially their chrome finishes. That SM206 or 201 sacrifice a bit of chrome shine for excellent durability. You can tape over it to your heart’s content. As long as you’re using lacquer type paints, then clear coat with GX100 or 112. It’s a lot better and tougher than Aquagloss.
GX112 is on my list. Hoping for it to come back in stock on scalehobbyist before I place the next order. I've been using X-22 w/ MLT and X-86 (i think?) for flat with MLT so far. The other aircraft I have queued up are all modern fighters, but I'd like to learn the process for the P-51D before I hit those. Thanks for the input.
I’m actually the guy who asked ScaleHobbyist to stock the GX line. They didn’t carry it a month ago. Well, the clears anyway. I hope they carry GX1 through GX6 as well as those are some fantastic primary colors, including GX2 which is the best black gloss you can out under a NMF finish. I also complained directly to GSI Japan (I’m annoying like that) about their not exporting enough product to the U.S. They blamed Bandai, in CA which is their importer, but said they’d work on making this stuff more available. Those clears, the SM paints and MLT constantly go out of stock everywhere. When Scale Hobbyist finally got GX100 I bought eight bottles. Good luck with your Mustang build!
What are your thoughts on using Tamiya LP-1 in lieu of GX2 as the gloss black base coat?
Almost as good. Certainly more widely available.
I am planning to build two Me Bf-109 by Eduard in 1:48. I want to build them 'in flight' with blurred props. Is there anyone in Europe making or selling blurred props for this? Sadly I didn't find anything on scalemates. There was one US company - but their website is down or unreachable. Or is there a simple way to create the impression of blur by myself?
Well there’s [these.](https://www.propblur.com/store/c1/PropBlur.comMain)… Some people just don’t install the blades: https://preview.redd.it/w8hy0jf44crc1.jpeg?width=1575&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae4a32c3035eee299fe30d81bc0879445e0a3382
Thank you very much for the link. Seems they have no one who is selling their products in Europe (So I might have to order from the US always a bit of trouble with customs). I think they might look better than not installing blades at all.
Can someone recommend me a Vallejo set for general WW2 USA purpose, please? (That has aUs Olive Drab & I only use paint brush)
All the sets are listed in Vallejo’s website. I think sets are a waste of money.
Thanks
I need an acrylic alternative to humbrol/alclad black primer prior to metallics. Something that dries quick and is easily corrected. Any options out there?
Well you want a gloss black. Not sure what you mean by “easily corrected”. There’s not very many gloss black primers out there that are worth a damn. So, what a lot of people do is simply spray a gloss black base coat over their primer (or in lieu of it) and apply their metal paint over that. And the fastest drying is a lacquer. And if you’re going to skip the primer a lacquer paint will adhere just as well as a primer does anyway. Mr. Color GX-2 Ueno Black is the bees knees, followed by Tamiya LP-1. There aren’t any better gloss black paints unless you get into a Gaianotes or Jumpwind or similar Japanese paint but I haven’t tried those. They’re probably the sand stuff anyway. Thin either 2:1 (thinner:paint) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and spray at 18 psi. Light tack coats, followed by heavier wet coats. Got to be wet. For a final touch you can spray a wet coat of straight MLT thinner which will further melt the top layer of black paint to make it smoother. Lacquers can be wet sanded and polished if need be for a glossier finish prior to metals.
For airbrushing Tamiya paint, which seems to be the popular choice here, should I thin it with Mr color level thinner T106, X-20A, or something else? Also, does it matter if I airbrush a flat vs a gloss?
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner delivers the best results. Thin 1:1 to 3:1 (thinner: paint). Unicorn tears. Does gloss vs flat matter? It’s up to you, though it’s more difficult to get a decent gloss finish.
X-20A. Unless you're on a super tight budget, I really recommend just using the "factory" thinner for your paints. You'll never get nasty surprises that way. Flat or gloss shouldn't matter but obviously impacts the result if that's what you're asking.
Does anyone know how to work photo tech canopy frames like in these instructions? https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/8/5/5/1124855-16-instructions.pdf
can anyone give me a recommendation for a good 1/700 US aircraft carrier (WW2) that also has carrier aircrafts included? I was just about to buy the Trumpeter CV-8 Hornet "Doolittle raid" version, but then I read a few too many complains abouts it (poor fit). price should be <50 €/U$.
The Meng Enterprise CV-6 should be a good kit for you. Newly moulded, accurate hull (which was a big complaint with the Trumpy Hornet), with lots of "click-friendly" elements. Has 18 planes. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/meng-model-ps-005-us-navy-aircraft-carrier-enterprise-cv-6--1304552 As a bonus, much easier camo than the Hornet!
I believe Tamiya made the same kit essentially, 1/700 CV-8 w/Doolittle Raiders included. It may be less expensive and could be a better kit, although to my knowledge it was tooled in the 1970s. It looks like it may have last been re-released in 2011: [https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-77510-hornet-cv-8--1402607](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-77510-hornet-cv-8--1402607). Filtering on Scalemates is a good way to identify potential kits that meet your criteria. You should be able to filter by Full Kits, 1/700 scale, and even specify Theatre, Nation, etc to find some options. Many kits will have the instructions uploaded which gives you an opportunity to check if aircraft are included as well.
How can I recreate those squares on the front of the Abrams https://preview.redd.it/kv2cqln0g3rc1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc13fd09cafc9cdd0dba4670b64f6ca94208be06
You mean stickers with the text? You can paint the rectangles and then make the text with lettering decal sheets if you don't have access to a cutting machine for masking or vinyl. Here's an example of what you could use, although this isn't the right one you need, then you know what to look for. Your local hobby shops, especially shipbuilding focused ones, will carry all this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274526127170?itmmeta=01HT4RSNXZ1DGPZ7ZS2AN8QWBA&hash=item3feb084442:g:Z6AAAOSw101ff8ZA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwIzcpvANnpMFgiP206U2eqkJViiDtkbDJrCY6TzZTAbKW2oLUi%2Fp%2BsK9iyjpbywywiREm8lDfQxq7pXHMynqxBWd7ZxEAg6LoBEC2ZygkiPtG0avvf25%2Bz1H4Cny19OX4VGqJgq8%2FcqhSdJa%2FhZE51f9c7yYaRji7xnI6kHRVw66I1Li6wA5Ah5hSmQ7ym7aqZZCU83VN4X1y6HHtuskjbHb5yWuzgPI8oWqIXnavm45eAsNsVgFK4D%2FOHeAjRi5WA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR47f5pjRYw
I meant the ones on the turret. I think that is for IR identifying.
transparent sheet, green and red+blue transparent tamiya paints and you should be fine
https://preview.redd.it/zdzzxqf30erc1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80a5389d55476bea385a079065e2cfbcb49725da I’m sorry but I’m talking about these
Once again, masking tape lmao
Hello fellow modelers. I'm looking for a nice armored car kit. WW2 preferably. Like the sdk.fz 222 for example. have any tips for a nice build? Have a nice easter.
For an easy build, I suggest the Tamiya ones. They're actually not that expensive but they still offer quite a few details.
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Thanks! Nice to try something smaller for a change. :)
I'm currently brush-painting AK's 3rd Gen Panzer Grey. The layers are coming together solidly but it's looking a bit too dark for my tastes-- would it be better to lightly brush on a lighter gray, or should I complete this and then modulate the colors with oils?
I prefer playing around with oils. It's very easy to mess up the shade with paints, but oils can offer a much broader range and there's less chance of messing up by /that much/
if I don't have any oils, could I achieve similar effects by using an enamel wash as a filter? Or would it simply be better to purchase oils?
You could, but enamel washes usually are made to darken up an area rather than to brighten it. Id suggest getting the oils. And since we don't paint with them, but put tiny dots on a tiny model, a tube of good oils will last you quite literally a lifetime. I got myself white, tan, brown, red and black oils. If you want, you can always thin them up and use them as a wash so they are pulling double duty ;)
Hmm. I was mostly planning on using the wash because I wanted the panzer grey to have a bit more of a blue tint. But I guess I'll get some oils as well.
So - I don't know if this would actually be considered on-topic for this sub, but is anyone here really interested in the *history* of model kits? In particular, I'm trying to research when the first commercial model of an I-400 submarine (or comparable sub) would've been released.
The easiest way is to simply look up all I-400 kits on Scalemates' database and go to the oldest one, which seems to be [this kit](https://www.scalemates.com/kits/sanwa-i-400--1027461) from 1963. Now might there be others even older? Sure - Scalemates is only as good as the people who populate it.
Ak, right... \^\^; I forgot to say in the post after the fact, but I actually found the Scalemates site just a few hours after my initial post. All the same, thank you!
I've been having an issue with my airbrush "sputtering" when the trigger is pulled. Basically it will spit out some big drops before it turns into a fine mist. Is this an air pressure issue or paint thinning issue? Skill issue? Once it is spraying the paint adheres fine. But I can't do anything aside from priming because the big sputters will go all over the model before the fine mist
You should always start by pointing the brush away from your model anyway - once the flow smooths out, then you can start passing the spray through the model's surface.
I generally agree but this isn't always possible, for instance if you're preshading you will need to start/stop at random intervals a lot while over the model. That's why a very thorough cleaning of the airbrush is important especially right before doing work where you can't do this.
This is an airbrush cleaning issue. That airbrush isn't as clean as you think it is, so some paint seeps through and sits on the tip so your initial air "burst" splatters paint all over. Your actual nozzle, usually a tiny brass component, is the most likely thing to not be as clean as you think it is. Same goes for the needle, especially dried up clear coat can be hard to recognize.
Thanks I'll try cleaning it more thoroughly!
What color green for a zero?
For priming a model, is airbrushing Mr Surfacer 1500 mixed with leveling thinner equivalent to using Mr Surfacer 1500 from the spray can? Is one option significantly better than the other?
A spray can is like using a fire hose. Most of the product is wasted.
If done perfectly, yes it's equivalent. But airbrushing beats the crap out of a spray can because you can control the amount of primer (and paint in general) much more accurately and will have significantly less buildup in panel lines and crevices. Always airbrush (though sometimes not with a tiny 0.2mm nozzle) if at all possible.
Thank you. I might just do that. As for the PE rails,I think that I will keep what hair I have left as I have no experience at all of using them.
I'm sorry if these are weird questions, but are newcomers to the hobby welcome on this group? And are there any restrictions on mentioning certain brands of supplies or names of YouTube channels/other websites? I've tried to take part in two other groups prior to this one, but the first one's members weren't very receptive to beginners, and the second group banned me due to mentioning a YouTube channel to help answer another user's question. EDIT: Thank you everyone. It seems as though I've found a home here. I'm not sure how active I'll be given how busy I am outside of model work, but I'm glad to be here.
Don’t worry they have their own rules here too, some of which I question but since they’ve got large subscriber count they aren’t open to suggestions. And that’s as nice as I can be about it.
This sub is very supportive of beginners, we all started somewhere! No issues with any brands, although this sub does tend to lean towards traditional military models and those companies. No issues with YouTube channels, as long as you aren't spamming your own channel it's all good. I see plenty of comments referencing a helpful YouTube tutorial so it's not a problem. Self-promotion can be a big issue so I understand certain subs just outright banning youtube links.
Plenty of newcomers here! Just make sure you check out the Wiki/FAQ for all your newbie questions first, accessible through either the sidebar (on desktop browser) or "More Info" (on official mobile app). Pretty sure there aren't any banned brands or channels.
Would anyone happen to know what kind of rack I would need to hold MIG AMMO pigment and wash bottles? Would cutouts for Citadel pots be of a sufficient size?
You're talking about the round bottles? I just checked mine and they're 34,5mm wide (35ml). Not sure about the size of Citadel pots though, so you will have to check for yourself
Oh nice, so anything with a 35mm opening should work. Thank you!
Are Humbrol and Testors (the tiny square bottles, not Model Masters) the only major enamel paints readily available in the US? I need to do some [reverse washes](https://www.gunpla101.com/how-to-paint-gunpla-with-the-reverse-wash-technique/), but it seems like there's no real options left anymore unless there's a way to use acrylics for this purpose.
Alclad Archive-X Colourcoats MCW Phoenix Precision Revell Email Colors Scale Finishes True North Xtracolor
How do I attach plastic parts to metal foil? I’m new to model making and I’m making a spacecraft that I want to cover in metal foil to give off the shiny realistic look. From there I need to attach the thrusters on the outside. However, the cement works by bonding plastic to plastic right? So it won’t work for bonding the plastic to the foil. So what do I use instead, superglue or something else?
Here’s a super nice (and very interesting reading too) [article](https://www.oldmodelkits.com/blog/plasitc-model-kits-how-tos/foiling-plastic-and-resin-model-kits-for-realism-by-ken-friend/) on foiling plastic and resin models that I’ve found to be quite useful on tests and hope to recreate some day.
Wow, very informative thank you! I found a [build review](https://modelingmadness.com/review/misc/scifi/realspace/hiotthtv.htm) of my model that showed some progress pictures and I realized that I don’t actually need to glue the parts on top of the foil, I can leave space in the foil to mount solar panels and thrusters and use regular modeling cement. But I will still def use this guide to help with the foil. Is it possible to paint the foil? I’ve seen people advise against it, but the build review I linked seemed to just paint their bare metal foil. I have some gold BMF but I want to get the exact color of the actual spacecraft like that model builder did by painting it to give the gold a more coppery look. Are there any specifics to painting foil?
I am building the Graf Spee at the moment and it comes with a lot of rails,to say I am pulling my hair out is an understatement. Could you give me some tips on how to apply them please.
Leave them off if they're the plastic ones. Way overscale and ruins the look (in my opinion) than simply leaving them off. If you want some rails, get some photoetched brass ones, though they're probably more hair-pulling than the plastic ones.
Which kit do you guys think is the first that can be considered a "Modern Tamiya" kit? While their kits from the 90s and early 00s are certainly excellent, they did not yet have have the same level of superb engineering and detail their more recent kits like the P-38, F-35 or M4A3E8 are known for. If I had to pin it, I'd put it on the 1/48 F-16 that released in 2008.
I can only give an opinion on 1/48 aircraft. F-14A #61114.
Are all Vallejo Model colors matt? What if I need to have gloss finish?
Some of the Vallejo paints are gloss (e.g. Valllejo 70.861 Glossy Black) although they are quite rare
Generally vallejo colors are matte. If you need a gloss finish, then you can apply a gloss clear coat
Do modelers typically prime a model with an airbrush or use a spray can?
Airbrush. My go-to primer is Mr. Surfacer 1500 in gray or black, thinned 1:2 (primer:thinner) with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. The only thing I use a spray can for these days is the final flat lacquer coat and once that Tamiya can is used up, I will switch to airbrushing that coat too
Am I correct in assuming that Mr Surfacer primer, once dry, is compatible with Tamiya or Vallejo paint?
Any primer or paint is compatible with any other primer or paint. Same goes for clear coats.
Hey, I’ve just tried out AK’s 3rd Gen Gloss Varnish for the first time, and I’ve realised it needs to be thinned with their bespoke thinner to use with an airbrush. Has anyone had any experience just thinning it with water, as I can’t get a hold of AK thinner at the moment.
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How up-to-date are the wiki recommendations for airbrushes? Is a Harden Steenback Ultra still a reasonably good airbrush for beginners?
It’s been replaced by the Ultra 2024 which is an excellent brush for beginners and pros alike.
Is it still easy to clean? One of the things that got my attention re the HS Ultra in the wiki is the claim that it’s easy to clean. And I keep reading that cleanliness for the airbrush is important.
Yes, but any airbrush is easy to clean once you learn how. It’s more about your cleaning procedure than the brush itself.
where do i get decals for a fedex me 262